Putty is one of the most affordable and fastest ways to prepare the surface of the walls for wallpaper. With the help of puttying, you can perfectly level the wall with potholes, cracks and other defects, so many people want to know how to properly putty the walls under the wallpaper in order to achieve the maximum effect. It is much easier to glue wallpaper on even walls than on curved ones - the glue is evenly absorbed and the risk of wrinkling of the canvas is reduced. In addition, putty eliminates minor irregularities that will be clearly visible under the wallpaper, especially in sunlight. In order for repair work to be carried out quickly and efficiently, it is necessary to follow some important rules, including when choosing a material for puttying.

To putty the walls before pasting the wallpaper, you will need the following set of tools:

1. Drill with a nozzle "mixer". The putty mixture is most often sold in dry form, and to bring it to the required consistency, it must be diluted with water. It is possible to ideally stir the composition to a homogeneous mass without lumps only with the help of such a nozzle. In the absence of a mixer, you can purchase ready-made putty, which does not require pre-mixing.
2. Spatulas of various sizes. For corners and other hard-to-reach areas, a small spatula is used, and for the rest of the surface, a tool 40-50 cm wide is used.
3. Brushes and foam rollers. These devices allow you to perform high-quality primer walls. This step is not recommended to be skipped, as a thin layer of primer ensures good adhesion between the wall and the wallpaper.
4. Rule. This tool is necessary when working with uneven walls, when the putty is applied in a thick layer and the likelihood of uneven distribution of the material over the entire surface increases.
5. Sandpaper. Used to eliminate transitions between layers, small bumps and depressions. Fine-grained paper and a manual skinner are best suited for these purposes, which facilitates the grinding process.

VIDEO LESSON: All about wall puttying

The choice of material for puttying work

The general appearance of the interior depends on the quality of wallpapering, so the questions of how to putty the walls under the wallpaper and what material to choose will always be relevant.

Most often, the following grades of materials are used for puttying surfaces under wallpaper:

For those who first decided to carry out independent wall puttying, experts recommend using a ready-made water-polymer mixture, which is sold in plastic packages, has an optimal consistency and is easy to apply.

Primer as an important stage of puttying

A primer is a special composition that forms a waterproof film, so that the wallpaper adheres better to the surface.

There are the following types of primer solutions:

• Acrylic. Suitable for all surfaces, including concrete, cement, wood, brick, plywood and plaster. The material does not have a specific smell, dries within 5 hours and is most often used for pasting wallpaper.
• Alkyd. Used for finishing wooden walls in country houses. The drying time of this primer is no more than 15 hours.
• Glyphthalic. Designed for finishing surfaces made of wood and metal in rooms with a low level of humidity, they dry out for about a day.
• Perchlorovinyl. Suitable for concrete, metal, brick and plaster walls, drying time at room temperature is 1 hour.

Surface preparation for puttying

To successfully refresh the interior, you must clearly understand how to putty the walls under the wallpaper, otherwise all efforts will be reduced to zero.

Before you start puttying with your own hands, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the walls of grease, paint, dust, falling layers of plaster and wallpaper residues. When removing paper wallpaper, no difficulties arise, for this it is enough to moisten them well. But often situations arise when removing old wallpaper becomes a real problem, this applies to glass or canvases pasted on drywall. If the material fits snugly against the wall and does not form voids and bubbles, you can putty on old wallpaper, while the layer should not exceed 1 mm, otherwise the hardened putty may peel off along with the wallpaper.

Important! If fungal damage and mold are found on the walls, it is necessary to treat the surface with an antiseptic solution. Sharp protrusions and bumps should be cut off with a metal spatula, and large recesses should be pre-plastered.

The final stage of preparatory work is the application of one thin layer of primer, after which it is necessary to wait for the solution to dry completely and proceed with puttying.

Starting putty

Even if at first glance the walls seem even and need only partial processing, at least two layers of putty should be applied. For plasterboard walls, one layer will suffice, and at the same time, the joints of the material should be carefully repaired.

Starting puttying is designed to eliminate significant wall differences, hide strobes and holes, the layer thickness in this case can reach 1.5 cm. For starting finishing, special putty is used, which is designed to fill joints, seal breathing cracks and joints of floor slabs.

VIDEO: Starting wall puttying

Advice! In order to perform the starting putty as efficiently as possible, experts recommend installing a special paint grid on the wall and evenly distributing the mixture over it.

Each subsequent layer is applied after thorough drying and polishing of the previous one. If there are no significant defects on the walls, the stage of starting putty can be skipped.

Applying the final layer

If the wall is relatively flat, then one finishing layer will be enough; if the surface was previously plastered, then 2-3 layers of putty will have to be applied. The drying period of each layer can be up to 10-12 hours, after which the surface is polished to eliminate sagging and other irregularities. The final layer before pasting the wallpaper must be applied with a wide spatula, from 30 cm, moving crosswise with an overlap on the already treated area. In order for the layer to have an optimal thickness of 2-3 mm, and the putty does not leave bumps and uneven edges, it is necessary to hold the spatula at an angle of 25-30 degrees to the wall, while all movements must have the same pressing force. After each layer, it is necessary to check the surface for evenness with the help of a rule and a flashlight, and eliminate the identified defects with the next layer.

Another way to treat the corners is to apply a little more mixture on them, and after drying, remove the excess by grinding.

After the wall dries for about a day, until the material finally hardens, after which the entire surface must be treated with sandpaper or an abrasive planer.

VIDEO: Do-it-yourself finishing putty for wallpaper

It should be noted that finishing putty is suitable for leveling old walls with significant irregularities and cracks, as well as before applying one-color paint, which makes wall defects more noticeable. In new houses, as a rule, such a need does not arise, and small irregularities are eliminated by repeated plastering. In addition, modern wallpapers are thick enough to independently hide existing flaws and level the walls.

Puttying the walls is an important stage of repair work. Before we begin to understand the merits of a particular putty or putty for wall decoration, let's clarify whether these materials are different. The Russian dictionary does not distinguish between these words, just one of them “putty” came to us from the German language and is based on the word “spatula” (Spatel) - a spatula or plate with a handle used by doctors and painters.

In construction, such a blade is used to level the surfaces of walls, ceilings and floors, if necessary. The word "putty" (hence - "putty") has a purely Russian root "tow". Tow was used to seal cracks in houses, using a thin stick or flexible spatula, wide at one end and with a comfortable handle at the other.

Since the German Spatel was the best suited for these works, it “got accustomed” in Russian workshops, and the mixture with which the walls were sealed and leveled was called “putty” or “putty” - it doesn’t matter.

Initially, putty was mixed with their own hands according to their own recipe, the composition practically did not change: a lime-sand mortar, mixed to a state of thick sour cream. Later, oxol (linseed oil), animal glue and chalk were added to the wall putty materials to give the mixture an aesthetic whiteness and additional low shrinkage during solidification.

Modern putty mixtures have also undergone some changes in their composition compared to the last century. Which? This is what we will consider now, and at the same time we will find out what putty is for and whether it is really necessary.

On the video: smooth plaster or smooth putty.

Putty (putty) is a universal fast-hardening finishing composition of special materials used for leveling, repairing walls and other surfaces before the next finishing work.

Judging by the popular name "putty", this mixture is designed to cover cracks, potholes, butt joints and other surface irregularities.

Types of building mixtures

The mixture can be dry (sold in bags) or diluted to the desired consistency - a ready-to-use paste. Both of them have a number of advantages and a number of disadvantages over each other. How to understand all the subtleties yourself, if you have never done puttying before?

The binder component is the basis of all putties-putties. The division of all mixtures into:

• cement putties;
• gypsum putties;
• polymer (acrylic).

Cement

It is clear that the binder in these mixtures is cement, which gives the putty its best qualities: moisture resistance, durability, resistance to the external environment. Such material is indispensable for finishing rooms with high humidity and sudden changes in temperature (kitchens, bathrooms, etc.)

This is an excellent material for walls outside buildings, but then lime (cement-lime putty) is added to its composition. The main disadvantage is a high degree of shrinkage.

Gypsum

The second name is gypsum plaster. Benefits include:

• quick "seizure" of the composition;
• plasticity and ease of use when puttying walls and ceilings;
• the formation of a smooth, durable surface after drying;
• does not shrink.

The main plus is that gypsum putty of the walls will be completely invested in a democratic estimate. Among the shortcomings - the material does not have resistance to water, which means that it cannot be used in wet rooms.

Polymeric (acrylic)

The most modern and convenient version of putty mixtures. In terms of adhesion, non-shrinkage, uniformity of drying, complete absence of shrinkage, it has no equal. Due to the fine-grained structure, which gives a very smooth and high-quality-strong surface, acrylic putty can be used not only when repairing walls, but also for pairing parts of different composition.

The mixture is able to hold glass and stone, plastic and fabric, brick and drywall, any putty surface. Ideal for finishing. This is a universal version of the work on puttying the walls! Of the minuses - the price "bites".

However, the quality of the putty must correspond to the quality of the materials used in construction. Only with this combination can full interaction of materials and high quality of work be achieved.

Specifications, methods of application and mandatory expiration date must be indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.

Dry and ready mixes

The manufacturer will also offer 2 types of putty mixtures - dry and in the form of a paste. Dry mixes are characterized by a low price and a long shelf life. In their composition, all the necessary components are in a dry state, and only water and thorough mixing are needed to prepare a technical solution. The elementary nature of these actions and the affordability of prices for such putties makes them leaders in the construction market.

However, there are also negative points: a short period of use of the batch - you will have to mix in small parts and work with a spatula very quickly. The mixture dries up literally before our eyes, so you should hurry.

Wet (ready-made) putties are deprived of such a hardening rate. In addition, they do not require proper mixing instructions, but their shelf life is significantly lower than dry, not yet diluted mixtures. The shrinkage of the paste is also large, and their prices are high. It is more convenient to work with them, on the one hand, on the other hand, it is not recommended to apply them with a layer of less than 2 mm.

If there is a large-scale repair with puttying of large areas, it is better to stop after all on pastes.

If you have to plaster and putty the wall with your own hands, you will need these tools:

• wide and narrow spatula;
• building rule;
• bucket and construction mixer (in the presence of a dry mix);
• grater for grinding the surface after puttying.

Stages of puttying

The order of puttying the walls is as follows:

1.Starter or putty in the first layer. For this type of work, a coarse mixture will fit, which is called the starting putty. Suitable for covering large differences, you can hide holes and strobes, putty the walls partially or completely, depending on the evenness of the walls. The thickness of the starting layer can reach up to 1.5-2 cm, and in order to give the surface strength, after filling deep cracks and holes, it is necessary to use a paint grid.

The strength of the first layer provides not only high-quality alignment, but also complete adhesion with subsequent building materials. Why putty walls before painting or wallpapering? - To keep better!

And do not forget that before applying the next layer, you must let the previous one dry well!

2.Putty on the second layer or beacon. The mixture is no different from the mixture for the starting layer. The beacon is a straight, flat rail made of wood or a metal profile. On this rail we will align the walls horizontally and vertically. It is necessary to fix the beacons on the wall and proceed to the second layer of puttying.
With the help of the level, we carefully check the quality of our secondary finishes.

By the way, if the walls turned out to be even after the starting, first layer, this stage can be skipped. The decision is made depending on the chosen decorative wall covering.

3.Finishing or putty in the third layer. Whether or not you decide on the second layer, you will have to do the finishing putty. Why do I need putty if the walls are already perfectly smooth? It is she who will give the surface perfect smoothness, eliminate the smallest cracks that could form during the drying of a thick layer. The last finishing layer should be thin, almost transparent, like a primer, which you, of course, did not forget to apply under the first, starting layer.

Since the finishing putty is akin to a primer, it is not difficult to make such a primer-putty for walls with your own hands: it is enough to dilute the remaining mixture in a liquid-liquid. Often this primer method (liquid putty) is used before applying the first starting layer, but this is wrong! A real primer will lay down better and penetrate deeper and prevent mold growth. Use the right primers, each type of putty will suit its own!

Universal putties are very convenient in all respects and for all layers, working with them is a real pleasure, and the most unprepared novice master who does not know how to properly hold a spatula can handle it.

Important Rules

When working on leveling walls, you must adhere to the following rules:

1. Puttying is done on solid, solid bases.
2. The base must be absolutely clean.
3. Putty is applied after priming the surface to create an adhesive effect.
4. Apply layers with a wide spatula.
5. For large irregularities, another 2-3 layers should be applied.
6. Each layer should be allowed time to dry well.
7. It will be necessary to putty the walls under the wallpaper three times, for painting - up to 5 times.
8. The finishing putty is applied with a thin, primer layer.
9. After the last layer has completely dried, be sure to sand the wall with fine-grained sandpaper.

“In everything big there is gradualness, not suddenness and instantaneity!” - once remarked the great poet and philosopher Goethe. This principle must also be followed when puttying the walls, this is a prerequisite: you have applied a layer - wait for it to dry completely! Otherwise, the masterpiece will not work. The wallpaper will bubble and become covered with dark spots, moving away from the wall and hanging from the ceiling. The paint will lie in uneven stripes, swell and crack in the first weeks after painting.

Puttying the walls with your own hands is a simple task, as it might seem at first glance. To help you use the tools correctly and apply layers, small but very useful video tutorials from professional masters below will help you.

In the kitchen, interior renovation is required more often than in other rooms. Usually it is enough to re-paste the wallpaper with your own hands or paint the walls. In this article - the subtleties of the technology of finishing work in the kitchen. A video to help a beginner will tell you how to properly putty walls for wallpaper or painting.

Wall putty - is it possible to do without it?

Are the walls in the kitchen dilapidated and cracked? Are the wallpapers covered in oil stains? No wonder! The kitchen is a room where you often have to update the interior. In order to carry out repairs correctly, you must follow some rules.

Wall repair includes three stages of preparatory and repair work:

1. Preparation of wall surfaces - at this stage, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the walls of old wallpaper, glue, layers of paint and crumbling plaster.
2. Rough wall finishing - carry out a thorough alignment of the kitchen walls, patching irregularities with plaster, as well as reinforcement (if necessary).
3. Fine wall finishing is the final stage of wall finishing, which includes puttying, painting or.

When performing repair work on our own, the rough preparation of the walls is often not performed or is performed in places. Neglecting the leveling and puttying of the walls will affect the overall quality of the completed repair: the paint lays unevenly on an unprepared surface, burrs are visible on the surface, “bubbles” may form under the wallpaper.

Applying a layer of plaster on the walls reduces the number of cracks, scratches, and reliably smooths out the influx of plaster. And leveling the surface of the walls with putty helps to get an ideal surface, the fine finishing of which is absolutely no difficulty.

Wall putty technology: base preparation

The technology of applying putty on walls for painting and wallpapering has significant differences. The process of applying the working composition to the walls has its own techniques and methods. The preparation of putty also has its own characteristics.

For the preparation of putty, it is best to use ready-made dry mixes, which modern manufacturers offer in abundance. Before purchasing a dry mix, you need to carefully read the recipe for preparing the mix and the consumption rates per 1 m2.

Advice! It is very important to strictly follow the recipe for the preparation of putty in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. Properly prepared mixture will provide a more even smoothing of the layer and better adhesion to the wall surface.

It is important to remember that the putty layer applied to the wall under the wallpaper should not exceed 2 mm in thickness. Preliminary preparation of the walls should be done very carefully. It is necessary to close up small cracks and scratches, deep potholes must first be cleared and then carefully filled with plaster. Sometimes there are influxes of old plaster on the walls, such places need to be thoroughly cleaned, knocking down the protruding parts.

A special requirement for the removal of old whitewash is that the walls should be completely cleaned. Ideally, wash and then let dry.

Important! Putty applied over old lime does not have strength. Wallpapers that are heavy, especially vinyl and non-woven, will not hold onto poorly finished walls.

Primer application

After removing the old coating from the walls of the kitchen, it is required to treat the surface with a hard metal brush - such an operation will remove the maximum amount of dirt. After cleaning the walls with a brush, you can start applying the primer composition. This is only done if the wall is relatively flat. If there are significant curvature, you should first correct the curvature of the walls with plaster.

It is convenient to use a roller to apply the primer, thus it is easy to achieve uniform distribution of the primer on the wall. The primer composition can be purchased ready-made, on sale you can always find a primer in the required packaging.

Advice! It is difficult to work with a roller in the corners of the room. For a better application of the primer in the corners, use a narrow brush with a long, stiff bristle.

After applying the primer, dry the walls thoroughly. Do not apply putty on wet surfaces. When applying putty on plasterboard walls that have a smooth and even surface, it is enough to apply one layer of putty, which will be the finish. Old, plastered surfaces are smoothed with plaster until absolute smoothness is achieved.

With the methods of work on puttying the surface under the wallpaper can be found in the video for this article.

How to properly putty walls for painting

Special actions for applying putty for the subsequent painting of the walls should be considered multi-layer (one layer cannot be dispensed with). Sometimes, on particularly problematic walls, it may be necessary to glue a layer of masking mesh, which is alternately covered with several layers of plaster mixture, followed by sanding. and then putty is applied.

Attention! It is important to purchase only high-quality tools for work. The spatula must have an absolutely smooth blade without nicks and scratches.

Manufacturers produce a variety of mixtures for puttying walls. The consumption of raw materials in terms of 1 m2 can vary significantly:

• Oil-adhesive putty - consumption 3.0 kg / m2.
• Adhesive compositions - consumption 0.47 kg / m2.
• Gypsum plaster - consumption 0.85 kg / m2.
• Finishing putty - the consumption of the composition is 0.44 kg / m2.

Here are the average consumption rates of materials, subject to the ideal condition of the walls.

From the possible types of putty, choose the one that suits you

As with preparing walls for wallpapering, walls for painting before applying plaster must be carefully prepared: remove old paint or wallpaper, beat off the influx of the plaster composition, and clean deep cracks.

Important! All wooden plugs, nails, screws and other fasteners should be removed from the walls. Holes in the wall must be sealed with cement mortar. The same composition is used to fill the old lines for wiring, deep cracks and potholes.

Cleaning the walls is continued with a metal brush, after which you can start applying the primer. Applying putty is allowed no earlier than 24 hours after the primer layer has dried.

It is convenient to start applying the composition from the right corner of the wall. It is worth monitoring the thickness of the applied layer - it should not exceed 2 mm.

Do not be upset if the first layer of putty turned out to be imperfect, re-applying the composition will correct the situation. It is important not to start applying the second layer of putty until the first layer has set. This will take about 12 hours.

Perfectly even corners are made using a special tool - an angled spatula. It should be ensured that the thickness of the applied layer in the corners does not exceed 5 mm.

Puttying walls for painting: video

Wall puttying: photo

23142 0 5

Putty layer: 8 questions on wall puttying technology

Greetings, comrades! Today we have to get acquainted with some of the intricacies of wall putty. We will find out what the thickness of each coating layer should be, what is the maximum layer of putty on the wall when it is applied in several steps, and how to properly prepare the surface for applying each layer. Let's get started.

Question 1: What is the maximum thickness of one layer

Let's first separate the flies from the cutlets. Putty is intended for finishing the surface and its preparation for painting or wallpapering. To level significant defects, there is another material - plaster.

They differ:

• Aggregate fraction size. For plaster it is larger (up to 1.2 mm, sometimes more), for putty it is smaller (0.2-0.3 mm);

• Dry shrinkage. Plaster has less shrinkage precisely due to the large mineral aggregate: its hard grains stick together when the binder dries and form a durable coating that is not subject to deformation in the future.

The degree of shrinkage is a determining factor in choosing the maximum thickness of the putty layer. If the layer is excessively thick, it will inevitably crack due to uneven shrinkage.

So what is the allowable thickness of the putty layer when applied in one pass? It is always indicated by the manufacturer on the product packaging. In general, a layer of 1-3 mm is acceptable.

Question 2: what is the difference between applying start and finish putty

The starting one differs from the finishing one by coarse grinding of the aggregate and, accordingly, by a slight shrinkage. It is designed to eliminate relatively serious defects in the base (cracks, seams, potholes, small blockages). The thickness of the putty layer can reach 5 millimeters.

Due to the coarse grinding, the price of starting putties is, on average, somewhat lower than that of finishing putties.

At the finish, the opposite is true: fine grinding, relatively large shrinkage and, accordingly, a thin layer (no more than 1-2 mm). Its purpose is to prepare the surface for painting. If finishing putty is applied to it in one pass to level the blockage of the wall, a layer of 30 mm will inevitably crack during drying.

An intermediate position is occupied by universal putties. They are characterized by fine grinding, which gives a smooth surface, and low shrinkage, allowing application in a relatively thick layer.

Template break

Everything is simple, understandable and ... alas, not always accurate. In modern fillers, stabilizing additives often negate shrinkage even with the smallest aggregate grain size. I will give a few examples.

Image	Name	Maximum thickness of one layer, mm
	Ceresit ST 29 from Henkel Group (Germany), starting (repair)	20
	Eurogypsum Saten, Turkey (finishing)	3
	Prospectors, finishing plaster (Russia)	5
	Fugen from the German company Knauf (universal)	3

Conclusions? You can find out which layer of putty can be applied to the wall only from the accompanying documentation for the product. Universal recommendations are not always accurate.

Question 3: how many layers can there be

How many layers of putty should be applied when leveling the walls?

In general, there are only two:

1. Leveling defects(starting putty);
2. Preparing the surface for fine finishing(finish).

However, the maximum number of layers is limited only by the adhesion of the first layer to the base: if it has poor adhesion to the surface of the main wall, sooner or later the finish may peel off and fall on your head.

In my memory, the Fugen universal putty was used to level the blockages of walls of 30 mm (plastered wooden partition in stalinka) with a total of ten layers applied. The decoration of the room has been in excellent condition for a decade after the renovation.

Question 4: how to prepare the base for the first coat

Preparation consists of three stages:

Image	Description
	Removal of old coatings: fragile plaster, whitewash and paint are removed from the wall surface.
	Dedusting: The wall is vacuumed or swept with a sweeping brush. Dust will noticeably weaken the adhesion between the starting layer of the finish and the base.
	Primer: the wall is treated with a penetrating acrylic primer that will adhere the remaining dust, make the base more durable and increase adhesion to the finish. On problematic surfaces (for example, on smooth concrete walls), adhesive primers with the addition of quartz sand are used.

A few tips for cleaning the wall from old coatings:

• Nitroenamels, oil and alkyd paints removed with a spatula after softening with a wash or heating the surface area with a building hair dryer;
• Whitewash and weak plaster can be removed without dust with the same spatula, having previously moistened it with plenty of water twice with an interval of 10-15 minutes;
• Water-based paints removed by grinding.

Question 5: how to properly prepare putty from a dry mix

In general, cooking instructions are always on the package.

• When mixing gypsum putty, you need to add a dry mixture to water, and not vice versa. If you pour water into a container with a mixture, dry lumps form at the bottom, which are almost impossible to break when kneading;
• You can knead a small amount of putty for sealing joints in drywall with your own hands, using a spatula. But you need to prepare a large amount of the mixture for leveling the walls with a construction mixer: this is the only way you will achieve uniform mixing of the putty throughout the entire volume;

If you don't have a mixer, use a drill or puncher with a whisk.

• Before preparing a new batch of putty, thoroughly wash the dishes, tools, and mixer whisk. Otherwise, lumps falling under the spatula will not allow you to make the wall surface even.

Question 6: how to properly apply putty on the base

Apply it with a narrow spatula to a wide one and apply it to the wall with sliding movements. Periodically change the direction of movement to perpendicular: this way you can remove the strips from the spatula.

Question 7: is it necessary to putty GKL over the entire surface

Not required, but desirable. The fact is that the seams between the GKL additional sheets cut in place stand out in thickness and make the wall uneven. Puttying the entire sheet with a millimeter layer will completely hide the seams.

If it is difficult for you to obtain a layer with a constant thickness of 1 mm, apply two extremely thin layers in succession ("on a streak").

Question 8: is it possible to putty a second layer before the first is completely dry?

No. Wet putty is a material in which the processes of hydration and shrinkage have not been completed. If you put another layer on it, it will most likely crack.

Conclusion

I hope that I was able to answer at least some of the questions that the reader has accumulated. The video in this article will help you learn more about wall puttying. I look forward to your comments and additions to it. Good luck, comrades!

June 12, 2017

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

How to putty the walls is an exciting question for most people planning repairs in an apartment, house or office.

And no wonder. Indeed, in order to save money in your wallet, it is more profitable to do some of the work yourself.

Preparing the walls for the subsequent finishing work in good quality means obtaining, as a result, the surface is perfectly flat, without flaws and roughness.

We will step by step figure out how to putty walls and corners with our own hands. There is nothing difficult in learning to plaster.

What tools do we need

Before describing how to properly putty walls for wallpaper or painting and how to do this work with your own hands, let's figure out what tools we need.

The first tool is a drill equipped with a mixing attachment. It is worth taking into account that putty is usually sold as a dry consistency.

To make a mixture, it is necessary to dilute the powder with water, and do it in certain proportions, and then using a drill with this nozzle, we can “knead” the desired composition.

Just using a mixing nozzle will give us the opportunity to make a homogeneous putty mixture of the desired consistency and without lumps.

The following tools, without which puttying work cannot be done, are spatulas.

Spatulas need to be selected different in size, both large, about fifty centimeters, and small, relevant, to putty the corners.

To prime the walls, we also need brushes and rollers. Moreover, the priming stage should never be skipped.

The primer will cover the walls with the thinnest film, which will significantly increase its strength, and also provide adhesion.

To level thick layers, you will need a long metal rule.

To start plastering a wall, especially if its surface is not smooth enough, it is impossible to avoid the installation of test beacons, which can be checked using spirit and laser levels.

This is easy to do with your own hands, just be patient and take your time. Such beacons will help to achieve control over the smoothness and uniformity of the putty surface.

Since we are going to putty the walls under the wallpaper beautifully and evenly, with our own hands, we cannot do without sandpaper: 240th skins will help achieve the desired result at the final stage of puttying, and coarse and large sandpaper will help at the initial stage.

It will be much more convenient to rub out irregularities with sandpaper if you insert it into a special manual skinner.

How to choose the right putty?

Putty mixtures are usually classified according to composition, they are of the following types:

• gypsum, which attract attention with a relatively low cost and, moreover, are quite easy to level, while not giving significant shrinkage. But it is worth considering that such putty is not sufficiently resistant to moisture, which significantly limits the possible scope of its use;
• cement types, unlike gypsum, on the contrary, are moisture resistant, but shrink quite strongly;
• acrylic or polymer types of mixtures are much more expensive than gypsum and cement mixtures, but at the same time they are quite moisture resistant and do not shrink. This type of putty is able to provide high quality wall processing.

Putties, according to the stage of application, are starting or leveling, finishing and universal.

Starting mixtures are characterized by increased strength, but at the same time they have a rather large grain size.

Therefore, first, the wall will have to be plastered, and then putty should be applied with a layer thickness of not more than twenty millimeters.

The finishing mixture is applied before the walls are puttyed under wallpaper or painting to hide the bumps. Apply it in a layer of three to four millimeters.

Universal mixtures are significantly more expensive than starting and final ones, as they combine their properties.

True, on the other hand, they are seriously inferior in their properties to processing in two stages - starting and finishing putties in several layers and a primer after applying each.

Universal putty is best used to cover smooth walls, without significant flaws.

How to prepare walls for putty?

Learning how to putty walls, and with your own hands, is not a difficult task, the main rule is that the surface of the walls should be clean, without any contamination, especially paint residues or oil stains should be avoided.

Any contamination before processing the wall must be removed!

In addition, it is better to plaster the walls in advance, but at the same time, layers of plaster should not fall off, corners and walls should not contain wax or scale.

Before you start plastering, the walls must be coated with a primer to ensure a strong adhesion of the mortar to the work surface.

The primer should be applied evenly, without gaps, in one layer.

Starting putty - how and why

Why is the starting putty applied? Then, to remove the drops, strobes and holes. The starting mixture is applied in a layer up to 1.5 centimeters.

Each layer must dry thoroughly before applying the next.

In order to make the wall putty better, a paint grid is installed on the wall, and the putty is distributed on its surface all over.

This simple trick will make the surface much smoother and stronger. Moreover, the coarser the network you use, the smoother the result will be.

The final putty is extremely important, because it is impossible to putty walls or corners for painting or wallpaper without this stage.

Why is the final stage necessary? To eliminate pores and cracks.

Such putty is applied to the corners or a flat surface with a thin layer, so it is better that the previous steps are done with high quality, because a thin layer of final putty will not save the surface from serious irregularities or roughness.

Cracks in the wall are best covered with gypsum putty. This procedure is quite feasible to do it yourself.

Before starting puttying, the crack should be made wider and deeper with a knife, and then treated with a primer.

Putty for wallpaper and paint

To qualitatively prepare the walls and corners for subsequent pasting with thin wallpaper - apply three leveling layers of putty.

As for how to putty the walls for painting, then you should be even more careful, because the paint will not hide even the smallest unevenness.

You can't do without finishing putty.

Plastering plasterboard walls

Puttying plasterboard walls is somewhat more difficult than concrete walls. But with this it is quite possible to cope with your own hands.

How to properly plaster a drywall wall depends on the further coating.

Without cobwebs and in two layers, the plasterboard wall is plastered, if it is planned to cover it with wallpaper in the future, but if, after processing the drywall, you plan to paint the walls or finish them with Venetian plaster, then you should stick a glass sheet on the drywall.

It is worth remembering that after each layer of putty for drywall, it is better to prime the surface with your own hands so that the repair is durable.

It is important to look at the corners and joints with special care to prevent cracks.

Such work is quite feasible with your own hands, no special skill is needed here, the main thing is to carefully consider each new layer.

Puttying the corners of drywall is based on the design itself. Radial indirect ceilings are pasted over with soft plastic corners, attached with a stapler in a given shape.