What insulation is better for the walls of a brick bath. We warm the brick bath correctly. Building an additional wall

Building your own bath from aerated concrete or timber is currently not so widespread. Modern builders and developers prefer to use ordinary building bricks for the construction of bath walls.

Especially popular for these purposes was the double silicate brick M 150, which in its parameters is practically not inferior to wood.

Thanks to the availability of information on the Internet, everyone can learn how to insulate a brick bath with their own hands, this is now not particularly difficult. The main requirement is to do everything neatly and correctly.

Thermal insulation of brick baths

Building bricks can easily absorb moisture, so when building a bath, it is necessary to avoid contact between bricks and the ground. Before you insulate a brick bath, you should decide on the option of insulation.

Modern baths are built today with several options for thermal insulation:

baths, lined with insulation in the form of plates;

baths with an air cushion in the wall;

baths having a layer of thermal insulation between the outer and inner layers of the walls.

With slab insulation

Warming the walls of a brick bath from the inside is the most common way.

In this case, the order of work is as follows:

mark the walls;

drill holes in the seams;

insert wooden plugs into the holes;

a frame made of a metal profile or wooden slats impregnated with an antiseptic is attached to the prepared brick wall;

fasten on the rails of the insulation plate;

close the insulation with a layer of waterproofing overlap, avoiding gaps. Most often, various foil materials are used for these purposes;

perform the final finishing of the clapboard.

Note!
The insulation inside the steam room must be not only environmentally friendly, but also capable of withstanding high temperatures in the room.
Using the wrong material can lead to a complete loss of thermal insulation.

With an air cushion in the wall

This type of insulation is done at the stage of wall construction. A gap of 4-6 cm is left between the inner and outer masonry. Reinforcement is performed every 4-6 rows by laying steel bars with curved edges.

With thermal insulation between walls

This method of insulation is based on the use and backfill.

Work instructions:

perform masonry, making transverse walls every 3 bricks;

as the masonry is raised, the voids between the walls are filled with expanded clay, fine slag or sand with lime and shavings;

after 10-15 cm of insulation filling, it is carefully rammed;

the last layer of backfill is reinforced with a metal mesh;

complete the masonry, performing 3-4 rows of solid;

if in the future the wall will not be plastered, then all seams are completely filled with mortar. If the wall is to be plastered, then the seams should be left unfilled by 10-15 mm.

Note!
If you have a lot of bricks with some kind of flaw, then you need to lay them with the good side out.
This will not only improve the appearance of the masonry, but also keep the brick from being saturated with moisture.

Floor and ceiling insulation

Warming the brick walls of the bath from the inside is not the only problem. The floor and ceiling should be insulated in the same way.

To work with the ceiling, you will need the following materials:

insulation;
rolling shields;
vapor barrier;
ceiling lining;
bars;
waterproofing;
anchor;
boards.

The simplest option for insulating the ceiling is to use a mixture of straw and clay as a heater, which is applied in a thick layer. It should be remembered that the quality of insulation directly depends on the quality of the insulation, so the cheapest way is not always the best.

Finishing

The inner lining of the steam room is usually made of wood materials. It is considered ideal lining made of linden or aspen. However, aspen lining loses its pleasant color over time, although it is famous for its healing properties.

A more practical option is to use pine lining. The price is much lower, and the aroma and benefits are almost the same.

Conclusion

By correctly and accurately completing all the stages of warming, you can get an excellent bath that will delight you and your friends for a long time. In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

Comparing a brick bath with a wooden one, you understand that it wins several times over in terms of quality. First, the brick does not burn. Secondly, it is not at all afraid of moisture, so there is no need to cover brick walls with moisture-resistant and antiseptic compounds.

But this material has decent thermal conductivity, which makes brick baths poorly protected from the penetration of cold air. Therefore, such a process as warming a brick bath is a prerequisite for the construction of this building.

The best option is insulation from the outside. But there are situations when thermal insulation measures can only be carried out from the inside. For example, if the bath is built right next to some other building. Or a brick wall acts as a facade finish. But there is another explanation why it is better to insulate from the inside than from the outside.

The bath is heated intermittently, so in winter its walls freeze through. And if you start to heat it, then all the heat will go to warm the walls, and only after that to the interior. So, in this article we will consider the second option - warming a brick bath from the inside.

Insulation options

Immediately make a reservation that there are a large number of different ways where different heat-insulating, and not only, materials are used. Consider the main options that you can do with your own hands.

Option number 1

This method is considered by the masters to be the simplest, so doing it yourself will not be a big problem. It is based on the process of wall insulation with heat-insulating materials, which are placed in the crate or without it. Here is the sequence of this process:

The internal surfaces of the walls must be waterproofed. To do this, it is necessary to level them with plaster or putty, and after drying, apply a coating waterproofing. We recommend using bitumen-based mastics. It is rare that rolled material is used for these purposes.
Next, a crate of wooden beams is stuffed onto the walls, which are pre-treated with an antiseptic solution.
Now insulation is laid between the elements of the crate.

Advice! The optimal thickness of the heat insulator for bath rooms is 200 mm. It is necessary to lay the insulation between the beams in an interference fit so that there are no gaps that will become cold bridges. Please note that in this case, the thickness of the insulation and the width of the beam must be the same.

After that, a vapor barrier membrane is stretched directly along the crate. It is attached to wooden elements with metal brackets. Therefore, you will have to purchase a stapler.
And already on the crate itself, the lining is mounted.

Now a waterproofing membrane is stretched and fastened along the crate.
Next, a second wall is built. It is most often erected from wooden beams with a section of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm. Please note that the elements of the new wall must fit tightly to each other. Such a thickness of a wooden wall is already an excellent indicator of thermal insulation.
And now you need to decide whether to use additional insulation or not. If “yes”, then a crate is assembled along the new wall, where the heat insulator is laid. A vapor barrier or foil roll material is installed on top of the crate. If there is no need for insulation, then the crate is mounted anyway, only from rails of small thickness. A waterproofing material is stretched on top of the frame.

And the last stage is the decoration of the walls with clapboard.

Advice! In the bath there is a fairly large number of different rooms that carry their purely purpose. So in all rooms except the steam room, you can use any heat-insulating materials as a heater. In a steam room, insulation with a foil layer cannot be used.

Insulation of other building elements

In addition to walls in a brick bath, insulation of other structures is also required. Those who carry out these construction operations for the first time with their own hands make one important mistake. They do not insulate the foundation. But in vain. Thermal insulation of the floor is not the final stage when it comes to the compliance of the lower structures of the building with thermal insulation standards. Just like walls, floors and foundations freeze through in winter if they were built from concrete mortar. Insulation of both building elements is the basis for reducing fuel consumption and heat loss. Therefore, the foundation will have to be insulated.

The easiest option is to glue foam boards to its inner surfaces. Their thickness of 5-7 cm is the best option. It is important here that there are no gaps between the panels. Although this trouble can be corrected by foaming the slots with mounting foam.
Do not forget to insulate the ceiling, and if possible, the roof. The more investments in thermal insulation, the less heat loss, which means savings on fuel consumption, which is used to heat the bath and heat hot water for washing.

So, only two options were proposed, answering the question of how to insulate a brick bath. As you can see, there is nothing complicated in these methods; even a beginner can do them with their own hands. Here it is important to accurately follow the stages of ongoing construction operations, plus be able to use simple construction tools. But do not forget that both methods are associated with wooden products, which must be treated with antiseptics.

External or internal insulation of the bath is a must. This reduces fuel consumption and slows down the process of cooling the air in the premises. If the structure is not insulated, then it will take several times longer to heat the steam room to the desired temperature.

We warm the bath with our own hands

Before the construction of the building, it is necessary to calculate the means and forces for thermal insulation. It is best if the insulation process begins during construction, more precisely, from laying the foundation.

Basic requirements for materials for warming a bath

Cheap solutions (impregnations, septic tanks) will not fulfill the role of good thermal insulation. Of course, protection from moisture is necessary in any case, but this is a separate task. It is necessary to warm the bath rooms separately, using materials specially created for this. Most attention is usually paid to the inside of the washroom and steam room. The selection of insulation and thermal insulation is done with the expectation of a draft building material.

One of the most important requirements for insulation materials is non-toxicity. Because in the bath, under the influence of temperatures, toxic materials can easily cause poisoning. Non-hygroscopicity is also important, the insulation should in no case absorb moisture.

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When choosing a specific material, you need to rely on the following characteristics:

resistance to steam and high temperatures;
good fire-fighting properties;
environmental friendliness;
low hygroscopicity;
the ability to maintain shape for a long period.

Types of heaters for a bath

All heaters presented on the construction markets are divided into three conditional groups:

Of course, even 50-60 years ago, only natural materials were used, which were brought from nearby forests. This is foam, tow or moss. Today, these are already partly elite types of insulation, they cost serious money due to the need to manually collect them. Many fans of natural materials insulate their buildings with rolled jute felt or tow. Such material can be bought at hardware stores. As for moss, there are conflicting opinions regarding its use. It is said that moss is not an ideal material for insulation, because it provokes the growth of mold or fungi. However, the moss itself does not have such properties, most likely, the fungus is formed due to improper felling of a wooden structure or poor ventilation.

How to work with different types of buildings

The laying procedure and the required amount of work depend on the material from which the bath is built.

Warming of log cabins

When working with a bar or log, you need to take into account the time for shrinkage, which can be 10 cm or more. Plus, gaps form between the crowns of such buildings, and cold air blows in just in them. It is best to insulate a frame made of round timber or an assembly of timber with jute fiber.

This material does not rot and has excellent thermal conductivity. Jute itself is a very fragile material, so manufacturers are trying to add flax fibers to it. But if there is already loose material available, you can perform classic caulking. So there will be less work, and the building will surely retain more heat.

If it is decided to create a bath from wood, then the insulation is laid during construction. It is better to isolate all the problematic parts of the log house in the process.

The work is performed in the following sequence:

Insulation of buildings made of brick or foam blocks

If the log cabins are insulated in a primitive way, then the masonry will have to work hard. Yes, and there are more financial investments for work with insulation. Additional thermal insulation is necessary, otherwise a well-heated room will cool down in hours. It is better to work, investing in materials, than to stock up on fuel all the time.

A common and proven method is a hinged ventilated facade. The working process does not take place from the inside, but from the outside of the bath. It is necessary to fix the layers of insulation to the walls, and sheathe them with siding or clapboard on top. In the gap between the layers, an air-filled space is formed, thanks to which condensation will not form on the walls and rotting and dampness will not follow.

The width of the frame for a ventilated facade is made greater than the thickness of the insulation, so an air gap is formed inside, preventing the formation of condensate

For a brick building, the following trick is often practiced: indoors, a steam room is made of wood. Brick absorbs heat for a very long time, so it is easier to warm a small steam room naturally if you use a small frame.

Enough timber 10x10 and crates. The process of warming such an impromptu steam room inside a large bath is simple:

You can make it even easier: do not use a beam, but instead immediately fix the insulation on the frame. In this case, you will need an additional layer of waterproofing.

Calculation and selection of materials and tools

We insulate all surfaces of the steam room, washing room and dressing room. And for this you will need:

Roll paper (on the ceiling and walls).
Beam-rail (5x5, for mounting insulation on the ceiling and walls).
Foil.
Insulating tape.
Self-tapping screws.
Aluminum adhesive tape.
Insulation, calculated on the area of \u200b\u200bwalls, ceilings and floors.

Of the tools you will need:

screwdriver;
level and plumb.

Do-it-yourself warming of the bath

Any stages of insulation are always carried out according to the golden rule - they start from the ceiling and end with the floors.

Ceiling insulation

Before you start working with the ceiling, you need to understand that in the steam room you need 2 times more material. After all, we are not working on a sauna, but on a Russian bath, where the steam should linger as long as possible.

The technology is like this:

We cover the entire surface of the ceiling with roll paper overlap.
We fix the bars on top of the paper, a heater will already lie between them.
Cover it all with foil. It will become a normal, safe insulator. But it is necessary to mount the foil without saving. It is important that all connections are closed.
The foil layer reflects heat, so the use of such a material for a bath is necessary
We glue all the joints on the foil with aluminum tape. Usually foil for insulation comes with the material.
We fix the edges and joints with several layers of adhesive tape. We check our work for tightness. If there is not enough money for such a heater, then the foil is sometimes replaced with cardboard or thick paper without paint.
Next, we mount the layers of insulation on the foil between the closed bars.
On the ceiling, it is better to lay the insulation in two or three layers with overlapping joints
We close the front part of the ceiling with a clapboard under a tree. This material is resistant to elevated temperatures and will not tar.

For a frame bath, it is necessary to put insulation on the ceiling and walls, but for a timber and log bath you can do without it. For example, if the bath is made of logs, it is enough to pre-sew up its ceiling with thick boards - at least 6 cm. Mineral wool is most suitable as a heater for the ceiling - you just need to lay it in a layer of at least 15 cm.

Video: insulation and finishing of the ceiling from the inside

Wall insulation

The best solution for wall insulation is a constructor made of materials that can be easily repaired or replaced.

The structure of the bath wall insulation resembles a roofing pie

Video: insulation and foil upholstery in a steam room

Floor insulation in the bath

And finally, let's work on the floor. After all, a large amount of heated air usually leaves the room through it. Expanded clay is most often used as insulation for floors - it is an inexpensive and reliable insulation that prevents the appearance of mold and condensation.

It is cheaper, of course, to sprinkle everything with slag, but expanded clay is more environmentally friendly and weighs less. When installing wooden floors, the material is placed between the lags. If a concrete floor is poured, then expanded clay is placed between each concrete layer.

Let's analyze the usual cycle of work on the insulation of the concrete floor.

Video: features of the concrete floor device in the bath

In addition to walls, floors and ceilings, they also pay attention to the insulation of doors, windows and window openings. They are treated with silicone sealants. It is customary to insulate external doors with natural materials. And it is not customary to save on them, otherwise in a few years, or even for the next season, everything will have to be redone.

When choosing which bath to build - wooden or brick in a summer cottage, you first need to decide and understand some of the nuances of these building materials. A feature of the brick is the thorough insulation of the brick bath from the inside, due to its high thermal conductivity.

A wooden bath during construction requires additional measures such as the application of fire protection agents, as well as waterproofing of the supporting elements of the structure.

In contrast to wood, brick buildings have fireproof and moisture-proof properties. At the same time, in order to improve comfortable conditions when taking hygiene procedures, warming a brick bath from the inside helps to increase the efficiency of heating the building by about 2-3 times. Next, it will be considered how and in what rooms to insulate a brick bath, as well as what materials are best used for these purposes.

Features of internal insulation of a brick bath

When building a bath, it is important to know how and where, if possible, to insulate a brick bath from the inside with your own hands.

The main elements of the structure that require insulation or thermal insulation from the inside of the bath are:

Foundation around the entire perimeter of the building.
The floor in all rooms is also around the perimeter.
The ceiling, that is, the roof.
Walls, both external and internal (partitions).

At the same time, the insulation of a brick bath from the inside, its scheme as a whole does not represent any complex and particularly time-consuming process.

Most often, internal wall insulation is carried out according to two common options:

The creation of an additional second wall along the main one, that is, along the entire perimeter of the main brick wall and indoors.
The recommended heat resistance inside the brick building is also achieved by installing a double layer of insulation.

As for the insulation of other components of the bath fragments, here, as a rule, everything is almost standard, that is, today most of the heat-insulating materials are quite suitable for these purposes.

Bath insulation materials

In order to insulate a brick bath, you will need to purchase certain materials that in a classic way insulate one or another of its constituent elements from the inside - the foundation, floor, ceiling or walls.

So, for thermal insulation of the horizontal part of the foundation, as a rule, foam or expanded clay is used, since these materials are the most affordable and have all the necessary qualities to cover this element of the bath with them. Vertical insulation of the foundation of a brick bath, for example, with foam or polyurethane foam, is recommended to be carried out with the help of specialists, since their independent application will cost the owner of the future bath more than calling a master with a ready-made arsenal of everything necessary for such procedures.

The floor in rooms such as the dressing room and the washing room is recommended to be covered with ceramic tiles with thermal insulation underneath, respectively. Schematically, this procedure can be briefly described as follows: a cranial bar is sewn to the beams, on which a draft floor is mounted from boards, then a vapor barrier layer is laid, then heat-insulating material (polystyrene foam or expanded clay) is laid on top, and finally a reinforced mesh is laid on the resulting cake, and all this is then poured with cement-concrete mortar.

At the same time, after the concrete screed has dried, the floor in the brick bath is covered with a waterproofing layer, followed by the application of ceramic tiles to it. In the steam room and the rest room, the floor covering must necessarily be decorated with wooden flooring in order to avoid the so-called heat stroke from the floor heated by steam.

The walls of the steam room in a brick bath are insulated with the help of basalt insulation, which is covered from above with special foil for baths. The boundaries of the joints in foil insulation and the foil itself are glued with a wide aluminum tape specially designed for this purpose.

As for the ceiling, it is insulated on top with mineral wool with mandatory double-sided waterproofing. Ceiling insulation of a brick bath from the inside can also be done using fiberglass, 2 clay-sand layers (one layer of sawdust, and the other layer of vermiculite or its analogue), as well as foam plastic - laid on top of all these layers.

At the same time, in the steam room, it is again desirable to cover the ceiling with foiled fiberglass, since polystyrene foam emits substances hazardous to human health when heated strongly.

If the insulation of a brick bath, tested over the years and recommended by specialists, is mainly produced inside with materials such as mineral wool, expanded clay, vermiculite, foam plastic, polyurethane foam, basalt insulation, fiberglass, and so on, then you should not forget that there are other bottlenecks , in which small, but heat losses also occur.

Of course, these places are mainly either door or window openings, as a rule, external ones. In this regard, it is not advisable to lay large windows overlooking the street or courtyard, as well as very high doors during the construction of baths. At the same time, it is recommended to place window openings as low as possible, and the front door should be equipped with a threshold.

In order to make the insulation of the brick bath inside more reliable, it is preferable to install triple-glazed windows on the windows, and choose the doors from wood already with insulation inside, or from heat-resistant, shock-proof, durable glass.

Another small nuance that should not be neglected when building a brick bath is the implementation of local protective impregnation of the brick from the effects of harmful bacteria. It is recommended to perform this procedure mainly in rooms such as a steam room and a shower room.

It is equally useful to know several reasons why it is not recommended to make external insulation of a brick bath. One of them is an unwanted and very expensive cake of insulation on both sides of the brick. By insulating the walls of the bath from the outside, the consumption increases not only in building material, but also in fuel. The other is significant losses for warming up cold bricks in winter.

A simple calculation based on the laws of physics will help to avoid the formation of condensate on the ceiling in the steam room: the thermal insulation for the ceiling must always be proportionately thicker than for the walls.

Summarizing

Since a private bath, whether it is made of brick or wood, is operated periodically, it makes no sense to maintain a constant positive temperature in it. Therefore, as a win-win option, if the bath has a brick frame, it is recommended to carry out all measures for warming the premises inside.

Thus, competent installation of insulation of brick walls with layers of insulation from the inside will give good savings in the cost of heating the premises. In turn, this means that the thermal insulation material must work according to the rule of retaining warm air in a closed space.

If all the measures for warming the surfaces of the building were carried out correctly, then such a brick bath during operation will retain the maximum heat received from the burned firewood inside, and its visitors will eventually receive incomparable pleasure from staying in it.

How to insulate a brick bath with your own hands correctly

Quite often, bathhouses are built of bricks. During their construction, one of the important stages is the insulation of a brick bath from the inside. The fact is that walls made of this material cannot retain heat for a long time.

When a brick bath is being built, wall insulation can be done using various building materials. To provide high-quality thermal protection from the inside, so that the heat stays inside the building for a long time, information on this topic will help. See also: "How to build a brick bath - we start with the foundation and end with the roof."

Materials used for insulation

After the walls are erected, the roof is mounted and the doors are installed, proceed to the interior decoration of the building. Insulation of a brick bath must be done in such a way that the optimal microclimate and temperature conditions are maintained in the premises for a long time. Also, decorative wall decoration helps to keep the heat inside the building.

Usually, do-it-yourself insulation of a brick bath from the inside is done by installing a multi-layer heat-insulating structure. One of its layers is laid from plates, and the other from rolled materials coated on the basis of foil, since this type of thermal protection perfectly reflects IF radiation and protects the insulation from the negative effects of moist air.

To perform this work qualitatively, you need to know how to insulate the walls in a brick bath.

Experts advise using the following materials:

mineral wool in rolls or slabs;
glass wool;
peat or cellulose slabs of porous structure;
reed mats;
boards made of polyurethane or polystyrene.

It should be borne in mind that heat-insulating materials based on polystyrene, like glass wool, do not have good heat resistance. For this reason, they should not be used when the steam room is insulated in a brick bath, in particular its walls and ceiling. To reduce heat loss through the floor covering, a layer of expanded clay is used as an additional heat insulator.

Foil-based heaters have proven themselves well. As you know, materials such as foil film are expensive, so kraft paper can be used for interior decoration of bath rooms with a low degree of humidity. The result is savings. For example, in a rest room for insulation, you can use cheaper materials.

Thermal insulation of the floor in brick baths

Insulation options that are suitable for baths under construction are not suitable for thermal protection of bath buildings that are undergoing major repairs. But the sequence of work in both cases has much in common.

When a brick bath is insulated from the inside, the scheme provides that it is necessary to start work from the floor covering. Thermal protection of the floor is needed, since a person moves barefoot on its surface, which means that it should be warmed up as much as possible.

Before you insulate a brick bath from the inside with your own hands, you should create an air gap between the foundation of the building and the floor covering. Thus, sufficient thermal insulation will be ensured.

When arranging the gap, support bars are installed on the base of the room, and expanded clay is poured between them, the layer of which should be approximately 2 times the thickness of the walls in the building. On top of the supporting elements, logs are mounted, made of wooden beams, which are pre-dried and treated with antiseptics.

Plates of heat-shielding materials are placed between them, and the gaps formed during operation between the lags and the insulation layer should be eliminated by using polyurethane foam. Then you need to lay glassine on the floor, and on top of it make a flooring of plywood sheets or boards. Mount the main floor covering at the final stage.

Features of thermal protection of walls in baths

After the completion of the thermal insulation of the floor, they begin to create protection for the walls. Before insulating a brick bath from the inside, in order to prevent the growth of bacteria, the walls in them are impregnated with special agents. This procedure is required only for processing some rooms - these are shower rooms and steam rooms.

There are features regarding how to properly insulate a brick bath (walls in it):

To reduce the degree of heat loss, the gaps between windows and walls are eliminated with polyurethane foam.
The frame on which the sheathing is mounted is constructed from wooden beams and fixed directly on the brickwork.
It is undesirable to use metal profiles and suspensions in work, since they have the property of conducting thermal energy.
Mineral wool or polystyrene plates used as insulation are placed in the cells that make up the crate.
The heat-insulating material is fixed on the masonry with dowel umbrellas or special adhesives are used.
Before sticking thermal protection, bath walls made of bricks must be treated with a penetrating primer.

After fixing the main heat-insulating material on the walls, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier layer of kraft paper, or foil film or other materials.

You need to know how to properly insulate a steam room in a brick bath, because in a particularly humid room, kraft paper will get wet and will soon become unusable.
For such places, foil-based film is best suited.

If necessary, a counter-lattice can be stuffed onto the lathing bars, as a result of which a gap will appear between the outer skin and the vapor barrier layer. Then a lining is nailed to the counter-lattice.

In the event that the bath has a large quadrature, its walls should be insulated on all floors in order to avoid significant heat losses during operation. If there is a loggia, it is also subject to insulation. In addition, to ensure the thermal protection of the building, the installation of solid entrance doors equipped with at least two sealing contours will not damage.

The procedure for thermal protection of the ceiling

It is impossible to eliminate heat loss in bath rooms without insulation of the ceiling in them. This is especially important to do when they are located in a one-story building.

The sequence of work when arranging the thermal protection of the ceiling in the bath is as follows:

Fiberglass is laid on top of the ceiling, placing overlapping strips of material. They are connected to each other using adhesive tape or adhesive tape.
A solution mixed from clay, chopped straw and river sand is laid on top of the insulation. The thickness of this layer should be approximately 30 centimeters.
A layer of foam is laid on the clay mortar, and then a cement mixture about 10 centimeters thick is poured on top of it.
To improve the thermal insulation performance of the bath structure, you can add foam chips to the cement mass, observing a ratio of 1: 3, and even better 1: 4.
To the rough surface of the ceiling, the bars of the crate are attached from the inside, placing basalt wool in slabs between them.
A foil film is laid over the heat-insulating product, and on top it is sheathed with clapboard, observing a 10-mm gap between the elements.

If the room is properly insulated from the inside, during its operation, the loss of thermal energy will be minimized, which means that visiting the bathhouse will bring maximum pleasure.

The warmer the bath itself is, the less firewood will be consumed to heat it and the longer it will retain heat. In general, the warming of the bath is a complex process. And the rest room, steam room and dressing room can be insulated in completely different ways: due to their constant microclimate. So how to properly insulate the bath? Let's figure it out.

Insulation of the bath from the inside: photos, diagrams and videos

So, how to insulate a bath from the inside, depending on what material it was built from.

Features of the thermal insulation of the log house

Since ancient times, no one has ever insulated a log cabin - even the floors. Just from time to time the logs changed and the lower crowns were repaired. But today, when a good log house and a real Russian steam room are almost a rarity, the question of high-quality insulation is far from the last. After all, its longevity depends on how protected from moisture and cold the bath is.

In general, insulation in a wooden bath is necessary only when the dimensions of the beam are small, in all other cases caulking and good waterproofing are really enough. For internal insulation of a sauna steam room from a bar, a traditional “pie” with mineral wool is used - except that only the thickness of the working layer itself can be 2 times less than for a brick steam room.

Brick bath and its insulation

Insulation of a brick bath from the inside is designed primarily to ensure that the brick that quickly freezes at sub-zero temperatures does not affect the heat exchange processes in the bath - if only because it is absolutely unrealistic to heat it in winter. Therefore, in such steam rooms an additional wooden frame is erected.

These can be second walls inside the bath - from a 10x10 cm beam. To do this, a crate is made in the bath, a waterproofing material is mounted on it, and a wall is erected from a beam. A crate is stuffed onto it and the following materials are attached to it: fiberglass and a ten-centimeter insulation, which has one side made of foil. Then comes the waterproofing and the finishing lining is stuffed.

You can also implement the second popular option, how to insulate a brick bath: instead of a beam, another layer of insulation of the same thickness is used, and another layer of waterproofing is laid between them. So how does the warming of a bath from a bar happen today? Basically - reed slabs, which are lightweight, pre-treated with a fire retardant and cost literally a penny. And so that they also do not rot, they can be additionally treated with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate. It is necessary to invest reed slabs in a layer of 15 m between the inner and outer upholstery.

By the way, it is highly desirable to make the inner walls in a brick bath of wood - so that there are no problems with thermal insulation later. And insulate them in the usual way.

How to insulate a bath from foam, cinder blocks and concrete

Cinder blocks and foam blocks themselves have fairly good thermal insulation materials due to their porous structure. But they can still freeze in the winter, and therefore it is necessary to additionally insulate the block bath. Otherwise, all its walls will delight in frosts with unaesthetic dark wet spots.

Mineral wool and fiberglass are most suitable for such a bath. But in general, the whole cake must be provided with a reliable vapor barrier - any blocks extremely do not like high humidity in the air, and absorb water into themselves like sponges. In general, it can be used as a heater and foam.

The first task when insulating the aerated concrete walls of the bath is to remove the ice mass of concrete from the heating circuit. Why, inside the entire structure, the frame must be done with an indent from the walls. Moreover, the resulting space must be well ventilated - for this, at the top of the bath and at the bottom, special windows-vents must be made from the outside. During the bath procedures, they must be closed, and during the drying of the bath - open. And then the usual “pie” of warming is made in the steam room and washing room. The most standard one looks like this: aerated concrete or block wall - a frame for insulation with an indent from the wall - insulation - board - vapor barrier where the steam room is finished with aspen or cedar board. Thus, the ice walls do not have to be heated - that's all the tricks.

Rules for warming a frame bath

The very idea of a frame bath suggests that a lot of heat insulator will be placed inside its wooden “skeleton”. This construction technology even has its own name - Canadian, and is considered the most energy-efficient in modern construction all over the world. It is best to insulate such a bath, of course, with mineral wool, but the foam here will feel bad.

In each window of the "skeleton" you need to put a cotton insulator, well protecting it with vapor and waterproofing - that's all the insulation. It remains to sheathe the outer sides of the bath frame with wooden clapboard or OSB boards, and then do the finishing work.

But the steam room in the bath is insulated according to the same principle as the log house - with rolled special insulators, which are equipped with membranes and do not require arrangement of ventilation gaps between the partitions.

Option two: the warming of the frame bath occurs according to this scheme. a vapor barrier made of parchment (or roofing material, or roofing felts) is laid directly on the frame, which is fastened by wood cladding. Between the resulting inner and outer walls, you need to put foam, fiberboard or heat-insulating slabs of reeds. All this is covered from all sides with layers of asbestos cement, which makes the frame bath both stronger and warmer.

You can also insulate the frame bath with sawdust, gypsum and wood chips. All this is mixed with lime in a ratio of ten to one and a thick layer is laid between the outer and inner lining. The main thing is that the sawdust is well dried, and the layers are treated with iron sulphate.

Features of ceiling and floor insulation

Ceramic tiles are ideal for the pre-bath and washing room of the bath - but there must also be thermal insulation under it. Here is the most common scheme for warming the floor in the bath: a cranial bar is sewn to the beams, on which a draft floor of boards is laid. After that comes a layer of vapor barrier, and then the space between the beams must be filled with the selected heat-insulating material - polystyrene foam or expanded clay, for example.

On top of this, a reinforced metal mesh is placed and a concrete screed is poured. After the latter has dried, the floor is waterproofed with a waterproofing layer. Again, the screed is 3-5 cm thick and you can build in the underfloor heating system if desired. And finally, ceramic tiles are placed on the screed.

But in the steam room and the rest room, the floor is necessarily made of wood - so that the so-called "heat stroke" does not happen.

Making a "pie" when insulating the ceiling

The warming of the bath from the inside always starts from the ceiling - after all, the highest temperature is always at its level, and therefore special attention should be paid to this part of the steam room. The ceiling should be arranged as follows: vapor barrier - insulation - sheathing - beam beam - ceiling boards.

If the attic or the second floor in the bath is residential, then the insulation cake will look a little different: the ceiling boards need to be smeared with clay in a two-centimeter layer and covered with wood chips up to 20 cm, or expanded clay or use some kind of insulation. The main thing is that it should be the right thickness.

This is how the insulation of a bath from foam blocks, a log house and a brick happens. Each type of building has its own technology, and knowing at least its basics will help you always keep your steam room warm.

Before insulating a bath, you need to take into account certain factors that affect this process. It is necessary to take into account what material the bath was built from (brick, wooden modules or foam block), to study all the climatic features of your area.

Log house thermal insulation

From time immemorial, a log house was built for a traditional Russian bath. Although it is known that the tree retains heat quite well and the log house can be more than 20 cm in diameter, it is still worth insulating the bath using additional materials.

But why is it still worth warming the bath? The reasons for this are as follows:

Now you are convinced that it is extremely necessary to insulate your bath. So, let's look at ways to warm the bath from the outside. To best insulate the log house, caulking (caulking) should be carried out.

Most often, caulking occurs in 3 stages:

during the first stage, the crowns are stacked one on one, a special interventional insulation is placed on the lower crown;
you should already go to the second stage in a year, immediately after shrinkage occurs;
but the third stage of warming occurs only after four years, already the field of how the bath was built. At this stage, caulking is presented as the restoration of a previously installed bath insulation.

If new cracks have already appeared in the bath and it began to quickly release heat, then it is worth using a heater based on jute and linen. This jute retains heat well and does not ignite. The truth should be remembered that it can easily tear. And for this reason, flax was added to the insulation. When filling the cracks with this insulation, it is important to do this very carefully, since if you are careless, you can provoke a skew of the bath. Also, to eliminate unwanted gaps, you can use a sealant that has the shape of a syringe. It is easier to use and fills all the gaps with high quality.

Brick bath, insulation procedure

It is known that a brick wall cools much faster than a wooden surface, such as a log house. This is because the brick gives off heat much faster. And although there are practically no cracks or gaps in the brick walls, the brick wall still heats up for a very long time. But remember that this applies to an uninsulated room.

It is best to choose mineral wool for brick walls, as it has good heat-insulating and fire-resistant properties.

As a hydro and vapor barrier, it is best to use isospan. Since it is this material that protects mineral wool from all kinds of moisture.

Remember that excessive moisture contributes to the occurrence of fungus and without isospan, thermal insulation may not last as long as you would like. Speaking about the decorative design of the walls in your bath, everything depends entirely on your material resources and preferences. But it is best to protect the thermal insulation from the outside, using siding or lining.

The preparation of the walls is reduced to the removal of various kinds of protruding fittings, air conditioners, old finishes, etc. If there are gaps in the brickwork, it is necessary to seal them with cement mortar (embroider), otherwise convective air currents will carry away heat from the bath through the insulation layer, and cold masses with the streets will be sucked through the cracks in the lower part of the walls.
First you need to drill holes for the dowels to fix the metal brackets into the brick wall. The metal brackets themselves, namely the distance between them, must correspond to the selected dimensions of the insulation. Remember that the length of the brackets should slightly exceed the thickness of the insulation, otherwise the facade will be inefficiently ventilated, moisture will accumulate in the wool.
Brackets are fixed with dowels, to which, after laying the mineral wool slabs, aluminum or galvanized stainless steel profiles are attached. The thickness of the mineral wool slabs is selected based on climatic conditions; for central Russia, 15 cm slabs are sufficient, or two-layer laying of 100 and 50 mm insulating mats is acceptable. Cotton wool is inserted between the brackets, laying is carried out from the bottom up, additional fixation is carried out by "fungi" - facade dowels.

Note! The metal frame with brackets can be replaced with wooden planks. In this case, 50x50 mm bars are used, which are fixed vertically on a brick wall. For fastening, dowels are used, they are inserted into pre-drilled holes in the wall. Holes for anchors are also drilled in the bars. The distance between the bars is chosen according to the formula "Insulation width minus 1-1.5 cm." Plates 50 mm thick are inserted between the guides. When the mats are laid, the sheathing beams for the second layer of insulation are horizontally fixed and both layers of insulation are attached to the wall with facade “fungi”. The last stage of work, both in the first case and when using wooden bars, is stretching the Izospan strips, gluing its joints, after which a vertical counter-lattice is stuffed under the siding / lining.

"Wet" methods of warming a brick bath

The procedure for warming a frame building

The design of the frame-panel bath is very simple and relatively light, so we understand that it is not suitable for large mass heaters. And although mineral wool has a small weight, complete with decorative trim, the mass becomes decent. Over time, this can lead to deformation of the walls of your frame-panel bath. Therefore, it will be much better to use polystyrene foam for insulation, because this insulation is much lighter and will not contribute to the deformation of the walls.

Styrofoam also has properties such as heat capacity and hydrophobicity. And there is no doubt that this material will serve you for many years. Do not forget that the foam has a number of other advantages. When insulating with this material, you will not need to build a separate frame, the foam should only be attached to a special glue.

As a decorative finish, you can use mesh plastering. But remember that this should be done only after you have laid the insulation and the glue has completely dried.

Due to the fact that many craftsmen believe that when heated, the foam loses its shape and begins to gradually collapse, they still recommend thinking about using mineral wool when insulating the walls of your frame-panel bath. The choice is yours, because in any case there is a risk.

Video - Do-it-yourself warming of a frame bath

Video - Rules and errors of warming the bath from the inside and outside

How to insulate a foam block bath

Many experts argue that a foam block bath should be insulated using the same technology that is used when insulating a brick bath. Others consider this opinion to be erroneous, all because the surface of the foam block is porous. It follows from this that a foam block bath must be necessarily protected from moisture from the inside, while a waterproofing material is sufficient for a brick bath.

For insulation of foam concrete walls, it is recommended to use expanded polystyrene. This is a fairly durable material with high thermal insulation properties and physical and chemical parameters, it is easy to install even alone. The only drawback is the possibility of damage to the insulation by rodents.

Insulation of a bath from a foam block, the main stages of work

Important note. Aerated concrete bath is insulated according to the same principle as a cinder block bath.

For insulation, you can use basalt wool or foam plastic with a thickness of more than 50 mm. The selected material must be placed between the laths of the crate (the installation procedure is described above). Make sure that there are no gaps between the crate and the heat insulator.

If foam plastic is used for insulation, it is recommended to additionally fix it with facade dowels or use glue, and glue the joints of the sheets with construction tape.

A waterproofing material is stretched over the insulation layer, and the overlaps of adjacent sheets of 10-15 cm are strictly observed and glued. Next, the decorative facade panels will be fixed.

How to insulate a bath from the inside

The technologies for warming a log house and a brick bath are very similar. Most masters do not consider it necessary to insulate the walls of the bath from the inside, paying attention only to the roof, ceiling and foundation. So let's find out the reasons why you should insulate the bath from the inside and what technologies exist for this.

Why you need to insulate the bath from the inside

The diameter of a wooden crown in a log cabin is most often 20 centimeters. If the caulking was done with high quality, then it will not be necessary to insulate your bath from the inside at all. But there are still reasons why it is necessary:

it may happen that the diameter of the crown in the log house is small, which in the future will lead to poor thermal insulation;
the bath must be insulated from the inside if the foundation has not been insulated. Or was insulated, but very weakly;
due to bad weather conditions, the insulation of the bath from the outside is insufficient.

The craftsmen are sure that if the bath is insulated with sufficient quality, then 3 times less energy will be spent on heating it, and a weaker stove can be used.

The walls of an insulated bath in their structure are very reminiscent of a thermos (sometimes this is called a “pie” of insulation). After all, those who are going to really insulate the bath with high quality will need steam and waterproofing.

The walls of an insulated bath have the following structure: a pre-prepared wall, a mandatory layer of waterproofing, thermal insulation, vapor barrier and, of course, a decorative finish.

If you choose the right quality material, then you can independently cope with the warming of the bath from the inside very quickly. To insulate the bath, you will need material that will be:

high quality, with high thermal insulation properties;
not prone to decay, and will not be damaged by various insects;
most importantly, the insulation must be fire resistant, because the temperature in the bath can be above 100 degrees.

Since not all materials are suitable in terms of quality and properties for internal insulation of a bath, most often experts use basalt wool. In addition to the fact that it has a very reasonable price, basalt wool is also suitable for other parameters. In addition, it is recommended to choose special synthetic boards that have a soft structure.

It should be remembered that when insulating walls, hydro and vapor barrier should be performed in parallel with thermal insulation, because these processes are closely related.

First of all, you should prepare the surface of the walls.

If you see any gaps or seams, then they should be filled with plaster. Also for these purposes, experts recommend the use of sealant. After you have finished, you should move on to the next step - waterproofing.

Note. If your bath was made from a log house, then waterproofing immediately after construction is strictly prohibited. To begin with, you should wait until the shrinkage ends, often it takes more than a year.

How is hydro and thermal insulation made?

First of all, the walls, floor and ceiling of the bath should be protected from moisture. It is best to use a polyethylene film or a special foil.

The insulation technology itself using foil is simple. You should do the following:

Note. All bars must be lubricated with a special antiseptic in advance.

Bath decoration from the outside

Due to the fact that we already have the necessary wooden frame, we just have to find a quality material for the exterior of the bath. Only after that the warming of the bath can be completed. Most often, wooden lining is used for the external cladding of a bath in Russia.

In conclusion, to all of the above, it will not be superfluous to pay attention to interesting and useful advice from experts.

In the sauna room, the microclimate is unique. Proper arrangement of the building involves warming the bath inside. This process is laborious, but quite doable on your own.

Information on how to properly insulate the bath inside will allow the owner to greatly improve its performance. After completion of the work, it will be possible to save on fuel and ensure the safety of thermal energy in the room.

When deciding how to insulate a wooden bath from the inside with your own hands, a number of factors should be taken into account:

properties of the material used to provide thermal protection;
personal construction skills and abilities;
own preferences.

Features of materials for thermal protection

To decide how and what is better to insulate the bath from the inside, you need to know the conditions under which the materials will be used:

First of all, you need to take into account that both in the steam room and in the washing room, the air is characterized by high humidity. In the dressing room, it is unlikely to be dry. Taking into account these factors, we can conclude: you need to choose a non-hygroscopic insulation or the material must have reliable vapor and waterproofing.
In the steam room, the air temperature often reaches more than 100 degrees. Insulation materials such as extruded polystyrene and polystyrene foam, under conditions of strong heating, will begin to release substances harmful to human health. For the same reason, plastic panels and linoleum cannot be used to finish the steam room. In the first case, the products are subject to deformation even at 80 degrees of heat.
A significant part of the thermal energy under high temperature conditions begins to be lost both due to heat transfer and in the form of thermal radiation. To prevent heat loss, the insulation for the bath on the walls from the inside must have a foil surface or a reflective layer consisting of foil must be provided in the thermal insulation scheme.

Insulation of different types of walls

The choice of how to insulate the walls of the bath from the inside depends on the type of material from which it was built:

If it is brick, stone or concrete products thermal protection required. The fact is that when there is no thermal insulation, the bath will have weeping walls and, as a result of temperature fluctuations, they will quickly begin to collapse. The thickness of the insulation should be chosen taking into account the parameters of the supporting structures and the climate in the region. Most often, experts recommend a 10-centimeter layer.
Is it necessary to insulate a wooden bath? On the one hand, the thermal protection of the building will not interfere, and on the other hand, wood can be called one of the best materials for the walls of the steam room and dressing room. Of course, it is required to insulate baths from a bar with a wall thickness of no more than 15 centimeters. Bath log buildings are thermally insulated when the cross section of the log does not exceed 20 centimeters.

From the inside, walls of greater thickness are either not insulated, or thermal protection is made with the arrangement of waterproofing and clapboard trim. The crate is arranged only if there are blockages on the walls.

Horizontally located strips of vapor barrier are fastened with a stapler with a 5 cm overlap to prevent water from penetrating under the material. First, the bottom sheets are hemmed. Polyethylene should not be used for vapor barrier due to high temperatures.

Choice of materials for insulation

Basalt wool is considered the best solution for insulating a bath from the inside. Rigid mats 10 cm thick are used. With thermal protection of the ceiling, the thickness of the heat-insulating layer should be about 15-20 centimeters, since heat loss mainly occurs through the ceiling.

To insulate the bath inside, you still need to have materials at your disposal:

For crates. The most reliable option for bath buildings made of brick or stone is to build a frame from a profile used for drywall (read: "How to insulate a brick bath with your own hands correctly"). The CD ceiling profile is often chosen, and the UD guide profile is used to make a border along the perimeter of the walls. The step of fixing direct suspensions is from 60 to 80 centimeters. The gap between the profiles must be made less by 1-2 centimeters compared to the width of the insulation boards. In wooden baths, bars are used as a profile.
For waterproofing. Requires heat-resistant material with foil, impervious to moisture and steam. There is a large selection of such products on the construction market. For example, you can purchase foamed foil polypropylene, designed for temperatures up to 150 degrees. This material is able to protect the walls of the room from dampness and reflect radiant heat, thereby reducing heat loss. So a layer of Penotherm 3 mm thick provides a degree of thermal protection like a 150 mm beam.
For a fine finish. Usually, insulation is placed in a bath under the lining, as in the photo. This material is produced for final finishing from linden or aspen, since the products of these tree species are resistant to decay processes, do not heat up even at high temperatures, and retain their original appearance for a long time.

Thermal insulation of floors, windows and doors

When a decision is made on how to insulate the bath inside with your own hands, take into account the possibility of increasing the degree of thermal resistance at the ceiling and walls. True, the cool floor and the presence of drafts also take away a lot of heat.

To insulate the door leading to the steam room, a thick felt frame is attached to it, which will reliably cover the cracks. Wooden frames at the windows located in the steam room, dressing room and washing room are insulated with cotton wool.

As for plastic, it is not installed in places with high temperatures, but in other rooms you should not be afraid that polymers will undergo thermal decomposition. Self-adhesive foam strips are used to protect plastic windows.

The choice of products, the better to insulate the bath inside, depends on the type of flooring. Expanded clay is poured onto the surface of the leaking wooden floor, and boards are already mounted on top of the leveled backfill.

They begin to equip a concrete leaking floor with digging a foundation pit 50 centimeters deep.

The layers of the thermal insulation structure are arranged in the direction from bottom to top in the following sequence:

sand -5 centimeters;
polystyrene -20 centimeters;
concrete mixed in a ratio of 1: 1 with foam chips - 5 centimeters;
waterproofing;
concrete combined with vermiculite in a ratio of 1: 1 (this is the name of a natural material with low thermal conductivity) - 5 centimeters;
reinforced screed -5 centimeters.

In the process of pouring the foundation, it is necessary to equip the slope. A boardwalk is mounted on top of the concrete screed on the logs.

In the case when a continuous floor covering is needed, a heat-insulating material is laid on top of the rough base with a layer of 10-20 centimeters, it can be mineral wool or polystyrene. Then it is covered with waterproofing, not forgetting to overlap the walls. A reinforced screed 5-10 centimeters high is mounted on top of this layer.

Then, as a rule, lay a tile. Despite the fact that the tiles in the steam room do not heat up to a high temperature, it is advisable to provide for the presence of wooden footrests to make visiting the bath more enjoyable.

Arrangement of thermal protection of walls and ceiling

Insulation of the walls and ceiling of the bath from the inside is similar to how it is done in other rooms, while special attention should be paid to the reliability of laying the vapor barrier layer.

Stage one - creating a crate. The order of how to insulate the ceiling in the bath from the inside suggests that the distance from the crate to the base of the wall or ceiling must be made slightly larger than the thickness of the material for thermal insulation.

When using galvanized profiles, this gap is adjusted with the help of suspensions, and the bar is nailed with a lining, it can be a piece of the bar. For wooden crates, galvanized suspensions are also used.

The profile fastening sequence is as follows:

A UD guide profile is fixed along the perimeter of the walls or ceiling, observing a 60-centimeter step. It is mounted to a beam or logs with self-tapping screws, and to brick or concrete walls - with screws with plastic dowels.
The axes of the CD profiles are marked, taking into account the fact that the gap between them should allow laying the heat insulator plates without trimming. Then hangers are attached to the wall, observing a step of 60-80 centimeters.
To install and fix CD profiles to suspensions, metal screws 9 mm long are taken. The free edges of the suspensions need to be bent.

Stage two - installation of insulation. Basalt wool in slabs is placed between the bars (profiles). Similarly, the insulation of a ventilated facade or loggias is performed. Work must be done in a respirator (gauze bandage) and special glasses. The fact is that the small fibers of this material are volatile and, once on the human mucosa, greatly irritate it.

A standard sharp knife is used to cut the slabs. The insulation should not be crushed during installation. Regarding how best to insulate the bath, you need to know that with a constant weight of the material, the smaller its volume, the worse its heat-insulating qualities will be.

Stage three - vapor barrier device. Strips of material in the horizontal direction are fixed from the bottom up, observing a 5-centimeter overlap. The foil side of the insulation should be turned inside the room.

The method of fixing the vapor barrier depends on the material from which the crate is made. So, before you insulate the steam room in a log bath, you need to stock up on a construction stapler. In the presence of a galvanized profile, the strips are fixed with double-sided aluminum tape.

To create a high-quality vapor barrier, the insulation not only needs to be fixed, all existing joints should be glued with the same adhesive tape. Then moisture will not be able to penetrate the insulation.

Stage four - clapboard lining. To make the room cozy and beautiful after the completion of the insulation, it is necessary to finish the walls.

First, prepare the tools and materials necessary for the work, including:

circular saw or electric jigsaw;
drill - screwdriver;
rasp (required when fitting and processing the edge of the lining);
building square (necessary for marking boards);
level and plumb (they are in demand when checking verticals and horizontals);
metal clamps for fixing wooden lining;
copper or galvanized screws, which are needed to fasten the kleimers to the bars;
self-tapping screws for metal;
wooden skirting boards for finishing corners.

When carrying out work, you need to take into account a number of points:

There should be a small gap between the lining and the vapor barrier layer. In addition, gaps (no more than 1-2 centimeters) are arranged along the edges of the ceiling, as well as in the upper and lower parts of the walls.

The end boards in each row of lining should be fixed with screws through and through, and their caps will be covered by the plinth. All other boards will be held by the clamps.

The above procedure for carrying out work allows you to both insulate the old bathhouse from the inside, and a completely new building. The thermal protection of the bath structure is a very important stage, since the efficiency of the steam room depends on its quality. The main thing in the work is to take into account the slightest nuances and then the result will exceed expectations.

Since ancient times in Russia, the walls of the baths were insulated exclusively with natural materials: felt, linen and moss were used, which are occasionally used today. But any natural insulation has its drawbacks - birds and mice like to take it away, and the very insulation of the walls in the bath in this case requires special skill. Much better than modern synthetic materials - more durable and no less warm.

Of course, how to insulate the walls of the bath seems to be a simple question, but in fact there are many nuances here. And the more you know about it, the warmer and safer your bath will be.

Inside the bath, for reasons of safety for human health, it is better to insulate it exclusively with natural materials - for example, mineral wool. And it will be protected from moisture by heat-reflecting waterproofing films sewn up from the eyes with clapboard.

Features of wall insulation from a log house

It would seem, why in log structures, wall insulation - after all, when laying the bath, it looks quite tight? The fact is that such a building material as a log house is characterized by shrinkage, which causes serious gaps. And through them, cold air penetrates directly into the steam room - which is absolutely not in favor of either health or finances in terms of excessive fuel costs. Therefore, such a bath needs to be insulated, and the most effective way is an interventional caulk.

All that needs to be done is to lay out the insulation during the construction of the log house, and at the end of the construction process the joint of adjacent logs or beams. After that, the fibers are stuffed with a hammer and caulk, and the seams are treated with a sealant.

Technology of the process of insulation of frame, block and brick walls

But the insulation of the walls inside the bath from the frame is more intricate - here you already need your own methods. After all, such a design cannot withstand high loads and special weight, and therefore everything must be calculated, first of all, from the technological side. Those. insulation can be used only one with a small weight. And polystyrene as an external insulation is simply indispensable for block buildings - it is not afraid of water, is lightweight and is attached with ordinary building glue.

The very insulation of the walls from the inside in the bath looks like this:

Step 1 Creates a frame on a load-bearing wall.
Step 2. The walls are sheathed with insulation.
Step 3. Waterproofing materials are attached to the insulation - a foil layer or at least a plastic film. They need to be laid with an overlap, and all joints should be sealed with thin slats.
Step 4. Everything is sheathed with boards or clapboard - that's all.

As an option - use special PPU plates.

Wall insulation from the outside - how to wrap a bath in a "fur coat"

It is necessary to insulate the bath not only inside, but also outside - in order to fully protect it from external cold and significantly reduce fuel costs. And high-quality external thermal insulation is a significant reduction in fuel consumption, humidity control and a guarantee against mold and unpleasant odors. After all, the main task of external insulation of the bath is the shelter of building structures, protecting them from contact with cold air and precipitation.

Further, how to insulate the walls in a bath of bricks and various kinds of blocks? The answer is simple: you need to create a good outer protective layer. The easiest way is to install a ventilated facade. Everything is very simple: a protective layer of waterproofing is applied, and then the wall is sheathed with siding, clapboard or even simple wooden boards.

But as a heat insulator for such a “pie”, the good old mineral wool is most suitable: environmentally friendly, fireproof, soundproof and has low thermal conductivity. The very process of warming looks like this:

Step 1. Brackets are attached, which are made in the form of squares. Between them - a step one centimeter less than the width of the insulation mats.
Step 2. Mineral wool is inserted - between the squares, which must be acquired elastic, able to withstand significant pressure.
Step 3. The remaining joints between the plates are glued with construction tape and filled with adhesive.
Step 4. The walls are covered with a rolled waterproofing agent, and it, in turn, is fastened with thin slats.
Step 5. Now - the installation of guides, which are designed to hold the insulation and serve as a support for the cladding.

By the way, universal materials have already appeared on the modern market that perform two functions at once - insulation and waterproofing. For example, foil foam is foamed polypropylene, which is coated with aluminum foil and metal-coated levsan. It withstands temperatures up to 1500 degrees and creates a really effective warming of the bath.

Insulation of a brick bath from the inside will not solve all issues of heat preservation. This is a complex work, which involves the insulation of all planes.

After all, heat leaves the room in large volumes through the ceiling, and it also perfectly draws cold through the floor. Therefore, today we will consider the question of how to insulate a brick bath in the most optimal and high-quality manner.

Also on the video in this article you can see the whole process of doing the work and understand what and how to do it.

We carry out warming

How to insulate a brick bath, now consider in more detail. Everything in this matter can be done with your own hands and without outside help.

Then the price of the work will be much lower, and there will be no need to worry about the quality. Below is a guide to how to do this job.

Milestones

Insulation of a brick bath from the inside and outside is done according to a certain scheme and has already been worked out and tested by time. First of all, it is necessary to minimize the heat losses of the bath room.

So:

Particular attention should be paid to warming the steam room, the air temperature in which depends only on your personal preferences. The average temperature in this room varies from 60 to 130 degrees. As for the Russian bath, in which heat is “caught up” by hot steam at a high level of humidity in the bathhouse, here you can limit yourself to a temperature of 60-90 degrees.
In the bathhouse, it is necessary to keep the temperature as high as possible for as long as possible. Maintaining the right temperature in conditions of high heat losses will require you to have a huge amount of fuel and energy, which can ruin your vacation.
Moreover, due to heat losses, there is a significant reduction in the life of the bath itself. Excessively long stay in conditions of high humidity can provoke premature decay of wooden elements. This also leads to a decrease in the service life of the heaters, and individual models of stoves are not able to fully function in such baths.
The reduced service life also applies to brick ovens. This is due to the imbalance that occurs due to the large difference between heat transfer and heat loss in the bath room. If the amount of heat that goes outside the bath is significantly greater than the heat output of the stove, then the stove will not be able to cope with heating such a room. The result of this will be the lack of comfortable conditions for healing rest.
Brick belongs to the category of good thermal insulation materials. But before the builder and the owner of the bath, a completely different task is set, which consists in ensuring the most efficient and fast warming up of the bath, as well as in achieving the longest possible preservation of heat in the bath, allowing the most comfortable and economical use of this room.

How and what to make thermal insulation

Insulation of the walls of a brick bath from the inside is done first. This should be done immediately after the completion of the construction of walls, installation of doors and windows.

Every qualified builder should know how to properly insulate a brick bath, because the temperature in the rooms depends on the quality of these works.

Attention: To ensure better heat retention, multi-layer thermal insulation is used. As a rule, plate materials are used as the first layer, on which a rolled heat-insulating material with a foil coating is laid.

The insulation technology itself does not present any difficulties. The main difficulty lies in the choice of quality material. To facilitate the search, you need to know what basic requirements a good insulation must meet.

This:

Resistant to sudden temperature changes.
Environmental friendliness. To insulate the inside of a brick bath, you need to use only those insulating materials that will not emit substances that are bad for health.

All these requirements are met by such material as mineral basalt wool, with which you can qualitatively insulate wooden, brick and frame buildings.

Attention: The only significant disadvantage of cotton wool is its increased ability to absorb moisture. Expanded clay or wood shavings can be used to insulate the floor and ceiling.

External thermal insulation can be made using foam, which has many undeniable advantages, including:

Simplicity and convenience of operation.
High thermal insulation properties.
Excellent plate geometry.
Excellent soundproofing ability.

Attention: However, it should be borne in mind that the foam can be used exclusively for external insulation of brick buildings. For interior work, it is recommended to choose mineral wool boards.

Wall insulation from the inside

Insulation of a brick bath is carried out during the laying process. Brick walls perfectly absorb moisture, so they should not come into contact with the ground. For this, the base is treated with special mastic or roofing material.

The process of thermal insulation of the walls of the bath is practically no different from the insulation of other rooms. But there are still certain features.

So:

Before proceeding with the thermal insulation of the walls, it is necessary to insulate the plastic windows. With the help of polyurethane foam, it is necessary to eliminate all the gaps formed between the window and the wall.
Hangers and metal profiles have good heat-conducting properties, so they cannot be used for insulation.
Fastening insulation to brickwork is carried out in two ways: using special glue or dowel umbrellas.
Also, if the wall is uneven, then you have to make a crate. To check this, we simply take the fishing line and pull it along the diagonals of the plane. If the difference is large, then you need to put a crate.
The transverse crate is made according to the width of the insulation, but the distance should not exceed one meter.
A vapor barrier material is laid on the main layer of insulation, which can be used as foil paper.

How to perform high-quality floor insulation

The initial stage of the thermal insulation of the bath should be the insulation of the floor. It should be understood that the floor in the bath can be either solid or with well-thought-out ventilation.

The process of warming a solid floor in a brick bath consists of several important steps.

First of all, it is necessary to treat the base with antiseptic agents.
After that, a layer of insulation is laid on the treated surface.
A waterproofing material is laid on top of the insulation.
At the end, the floor is equipped with 40 mm grooved boards.

If a brick building has a ventilated base, then the stages undergo slight changes.

First, the base is covered with a layer of sand.
Styrofoam slabs are laid on top of the sand layer.
Then a mixture is laid, consisting of cement, sand and foam chips.
The next layer will be a mixture of vermiculite, cement and sand.
A rolled roofing material is laid on top of these layers.
At the next stage, the reinforcing construction mesh is laid.
All this is poured with a solution of crushed stone and concrete.
Finally, a ventilated wooden floor is installed.

How to properly insulate a ceiling

Warm air rushes up, so the insulation of the ceiling should be given increased attention. For high-quality and dense insulation, it is necessary to choose a reliable insulation.

For greater reliability, it is advisable to put a vapor barrier foil on the side of the steam room. To eliminate the smallest holes, it is advisable to carefully glue it with aluminum tape. Styrofoam plates are laid on top of the foil, the joints between which are treated with mounting foam.

There should be no large windows and high doors in the bathhouse.
In order for the boiler installed in the bath to keep the desired water temperature longer, it must be insulated with foil plates.
In order to carry out high-quality thermal insulation of a steam bath made of bricks, you should choose only natural materials.
The gaps formed between the plates are sealed with mounting foam.
It is advisable to perform thermal insulation of a brick bath during the construction of a building.

How to carry out external thermal insulation of walls

Now we need to insulate the brick bath from the outside. For external thermal insulation work, the same non-combustible mineral wool insulation is used, which perfectly retains heat and has good soundproofing properties.

When using rolled insulation, it must be well fixed on the outer walls of the building. This can be done using wooden planks or slats.

Attention: With external insulation, special attention should be paid to the connection of the insulation. Indeed, during deformation, it loses its properties and this should be given special attention.

If mineral wool mats are used as a heat-insulating material, then a slightly different sequence of work must be followed:

First, a crate made of corners and a metal profile is fixed on the outer surface of the walls;
Each cell of the crate is filled with heat-insulating material;
The joints formed between the mats are glued with construction tape;
The entire structure is covered with a layer of waterproofing.

At the final stage, the walls are sheathed with any finishing material.

To insulate a brick bath, you can use foam sheets. In this case, before starting work, the brickwork is cleaned of all contaminants.

All flaws present there are removed from the surface of the wall, such as deep seams and chipped bricks.
Styrofoam sheets are glued to the plastered wall using a special adhesive.
After the glue has completely dried, the sheets are fixed with dowels. At five points of each sheet of foam, special dowels with wide caps are screwed.
The joints formed between the sheets of heat-insulating material must be carefully coated with glue.
A reinforcing mesh is laid and fixed on top of the foam. The resulting surface is treated twice with plaster.

How to insulate a brick bath, you now know. Give preference when buying materials to trusted brands. Do not buy cheap Chinese products. It often emits a harmful odor when heated.