Reinforcement of cinder block and brick between themselves. We build ourselves - laying walls from cinder blocks with our own hands from A to Z, video. The masonry of a hollow cinder block does not differ in its technology from the masonry of a full-bodied one. All work must be done in a similar way

The characteristics of the cinder block are not particularly impressive when compared with more modern building materials.

But the cost and speed of building walls with its help became the reason for the frequent use of cinder block elements in the construction of private houses.

But the purpose of this article is not to compare the materials used in the construction process, but to tell how to lay the cinder block and what to be guided by when doing the work with your own hands.

Cinder block masonry: types

It should start with the fact that the construction of walls from such material is a simple process. One has only to learn the basics and the work with your own hands will be done at a high level. As a rule, the walls are laid from a hollow block - this reduces the weight of the house, and it is easier to lift 23 kilograms during installation than 28 kilograms.

The main types of laying cinder block walls:

Half a stone;
One stone;
One and a half stone;
Two stones.

The first can be used for the construction of non-residential buildings. In other cases, it is necessary to be guided exclusively by the design documentation, in which the optimal ratio of the thermal conductivity of the walls to their mass has been selected. Insulation often helps to achieve the desired indicators.

How to make a mortar for cinder block masonry correctly?

How much and in what proportions to use the components of the cement mixture depends on the specific construction conditions. If you have any difficulties, you can go to the store and buy a dry mixture, dilute it, and then immediately start working. But such an output leads to an increase in costs, so we will give an example of how many components are put in standard situations:

1 part binder (cement);
3 parts of fine-grained filler (sand);
Water (how much to pour depends on the situation, but the mixture must be viscous so that it does not "run away" during operation);
A plasticizer (some believe that it should be used, others do not support this opinion, but it can really improve the quality of the connection of elements, and reduce the thermal conductivity of the seams).

In non-professional construction, sometimes shampoo serves as an alternative to plasticizer, but the feasibility of such a move is questionable.

It is necessary to provide optimal conditions for the manufacture of the mixture and correctly calculate how much of which component to use: the solution must be homogeneous and capable of withstanding the weight of the structure.

What to make a base for cinder block masonry?

Foundation waterproofing

The belonging of the question to the immediate topic is relative, but laying the wall begins with the foundation, so you need to take into account some rules:

Before laying the starting row of walls, you need to put a waterproofing material.
It is permissible to start work if the surface of the base is flat and has no drops.
It is worth making a base that will be 70 cm higher than the ground surface.

What needs to be prepared for styling?

To begin with, you should stock up on the amount of material necessary for building with your own hands. And in the immediate process of masonry, they will come in handy:

Hammer;
Circular saw or other similar tool;
Trowel;
Plumb line;
Styling template;
Level;
Cord, fishing line or any rope;
Ordering.

detailed instructions

Laying out cinder block walls with your own hands is no more difficult than building brick structures.

The first row is the basis of the entire wall and should be laid with all care, since the evenness of all the walls of the building depends on it, and hence the even distribution of the load along the base.

Algorithm for performing the work:

Put the necessary components in the concrete mixer and prepare the mortar.
The solution is laid on the base (more precisely, on the waterproofing material). It is impossible to say exactly how much solution is optimal (it also depends on the specific situation), but it should be up to 1.5 cm thick.
The fishing line is pulled, the surface of the solution is leveled and the laying of the starting row begins.
Before putting the next wall element in a row, the previous one is leveled. To keep the wall even, the blocks are laid at the level of the stretched line.
The corners of the next row consist of half a cinder block. To separate it, a file or other handy tool will come in handy.

It is better to start work by laying the corners, and the excess solution, which has come out under the pressure of the cinder block, must be immediately removed from the cracks.
After laying each row, be sure to level it and correct any unevenness.

What is a laying template and is it needed for self-construction?

If you are an experienced builder who is able to measure the level of the solution "by eye", then the use of such a device is not necessary. Otherwise, they simply need to arm themselves, at least at first.

You can use ordinary boards to make it. The size will depend solely on the dimensions of the cinder block. The main thing is that its height is 1–1.5 cm - it depends on the thickness of the seams.

What should be considered when building with your own hands?

Take advantage of the advice of experienced professionals:

The more often the evenness of the laying is measured, the better the work will be done.
Use multi-colored chalk to mark the blocks - it is clearly visible.
The solution must be kneaded so that the prepared amount is used immediately.
Cinder block walls are afraid of moisture, so their protection with plaster or siding will come in handy.

Doing the work on your own is quite simple, especially if you calculate how much it costs to erect one wall by specialists. Follow the construction process correctly and the construction will delight you for a long time.

DIY cinder block masonry is gaining more and more popularity every year. This artificial stone is one of the cheapest building materials. At the same time, it has excellent technical characteristics and allows you to erect not only utility buildings, but also full-fledged residential buildings. The installation of a cinder block is not particularly difficult, therefore, all the work can be handled without the involvement of a construction team, which allows you to increase your professionalism and save a considerable amount.

Types of cinder block

The cinder blocks got their name thanks to the filler that was previously used in the process of their production: slag, ash and other products of solid fuel combustion. However, such blocks were characterized by high moisture absorption and insufficient strength. Therefore, today fine-grained crushed stone, expanded clay, broken brick, sawdust, etc. are used as a filler.

The entire cinder block available on the domestic market can be conditionally divided into three types:

corpulent - high-strength building material, the weight of which is about 26-28 kg;
hollow - has low thermal conductivity and is perfect for masonry walls;
semi-block - used for the design of interior partitions.

Each type has a certain voidness, the value of which determines the main characteristics of the product (strength and thermal conductivity). It is on voidness that you need to focus first of all when choosing blocks for (Fig. 1).

When carrying out construction work with their own hands, many are interested in the question: what should be the thickness of the cinder block walls? It all depends on the purpose of the building being erected and the climatic zone in which it was built. The standard dimensions of this material are as follows: width - 390 mm, height - 188 mm, thickness - 190 mm.

The laying of cinder blocks, like ordinary bricks, can be performed according to the following schemes:

in ½ block;
in 1 block;
in 1.5 blocks;
in 2 blocks.

Considering how to lay the cinder block correctly, you need to know that with an increase in the thickness of the walls, their thermal conductivity decreases, that is, it becomes warmer and more comfortable in the house. At the same time, excessive thickness leads to additional financial waste and an increase in the load on the foundation. For the construction of a one-story house, the recommended wall thickness from a cinder block is 380 mm (1 block masonry).

Preparatory work

Before laying the cinder block with your own hands, you need to prepare the following tools and materials:

circular saw;
electric drill with a nozzle for mixing the solution;
building level;
plumb line;
trowel;
hammer;
container for masonry mixture;
cord;
cement, sand;
steel bars or reinforcing mesh.

High-quality masonry of any wall material begins with the creation of a reliable base. Its type depends on the condition of the soil at the summer cottage and the depth of the groundwater. So, for heaving soils, the best option is a monolithic reinforced concrete foundation.

For stable soils with deep underground waters, a tape base is well suited, which can be made independently, without the use of construction machinery and expensive equipment. Its width should be equal to or greater than the thickness of the future walls. To fill the foundation, a mortar is prepared from cement, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1: 2: 4.

Strip base scheme

After the installation mixture has completely hardened, a waterproofing material is laid on top of the concrete base to protect the blocks from moisture. It is recommended to use roofing material as waterproofing.

Cinder block walls are laid on cement mortar, which can be purchased at any hardware store or made by hand. Ready-made dry mixes are relatively expensive, so many choose the second option. Masonry mortar is prepared from cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 3. To give the mixture plasticity and increase its frost resistance, a plasticizer is added to it. The finished masonry mass should be viscous and spread slightly under the weight of the cinder block.

DIY cinder block laying

Brickwork, cinder block or any other building material starts from the corners of the future house. In this case, you need to be very careful, since the evenness and reliability of all walls will depend on the correctness of the angles. First, a little mortar is applied to the corners of the foundation and leveled with a trowel. Then two blocks are placed on top of it at right angles, after which another block is mounted on them, observing the dressing of the seams.

The rest of the corners of the house are driven out in the same way. The masonry must be constantly checked for horizontal and vertical evenness using a building level and a plumb line.

If any element does not fit into the overall picture, it is corrected by lightly tapping with a trowel. Nails are hammered into the resulting seam between the upper and lower blocks and a cord is pulled, which will be a reference point when laying the first row. After installing the first row along the entire perimeter of the foundation, they begin to lay the second row, and so on.

Installation seams in the walls are cold bridges through which heat escapes from the house, so their width should be minimal. For cinder blocks, the recommended joint width is about 10-15 mm. At smaller sizes, the masonry will have low strength.

To evenly distribute the load along the entire perimeter of the walls and increase the reliability of the masonry, its reinforcement is performed. For this, metal rods are used, which are mounted in the grooves of the blocks, or a reinforcing mesh. The first row of blocks is reinforced without fail, after which this procedure is performed every 3-4 rows.

Correctly erected cinder block walls will last for many years, reliably protecting residents from bad weather conditions and bringing warmth and comfort to the house.

Cinder block is one of the most affordable building materials. It is famous not only for its cheapness, but also for the fact that this material can be made independently. In this case, you can save even more.

If you build from blocks with your own hands, then the costs will be minimal. Moreover, it is not difficult to do it at all. It doesn't matter what type of building is planned - a house, an outbuilding, a bathhouse, a garage. If you learn how to properly lay cinder blocks and approach this process responsibly, then the future building can stand for more than a dozen years.

Types of masonry

There are several types of cinder block:

hollow;
corpulent;
half block;
decorative.

Decorative cinder block is used to increase the moisture resistance of the outer side of the wall

Usually, a hollow block is used for walls. In this case, the load on the foundation will be less. The weight of one hollow block can reach 23 kg, and a full-bodied block - 28 kg... Therefore, the latter is not used in the construction of walls. A solid block is used when building a foundation (but not in the case of building a building from cinder blocks), when constructing basements, supporting structures and columns.

There are also several types of masonry:

in one stone;
one and a half stones;
into the floor of the stone (spoon method);
in two stones.

The method should be chosen based on the type of future construction. But you need to remember that the thicker the wall, the warmer the building... If you plan to build a small outbuilding, for example, a barn, then in this case you can apply the half-stone method. For this, half-blocks are just suitable.

Mortar for laying cinder blocks

Masonry mortar has different proportions. Usually, they proceed from what type of building is planned to be erected. You can buy a ready-made dry solution in the store, in which you just need to add water and stir. But in this case, the price for masonry increases.

Therefore, more often the solution is prepared independently. The simplest and most standard mortar for laying cinder block is prepared in the following proportions:

3 pieces of sand;
1 part dry cement;
water.

It should be noted that water must be added so that the solution is viscous and does not spread much when laying the cinder block. Also a plasticizer can be added to the solution... It increases frost resistance, reduces porosity and increases the density of the solution.

After adding a plasticizer, the solution will have the following properties:

stickiness;
plastic;
uniformity;
frost resistance;
self-sealing;
strength;
moisture resistance.

Home craftsmen use, for example, a cheap shampoo instead of a purchased plasticizer. But such experiments are the developer's personal risk.

When preparing the solution, it is also necessary to take into account the weight of the future structure. The mortar must withstand all loads. It is necessary to mix the mixture in a concrete mixer, which will ensure greater homogeneity and quality of the solution.

Foundation for laying cinder blocks

You need to know how to lay the block on the foundation. After all, this is the very initial stage of work.

Usually the foundation for a cinder block building is made monolithic. As a result, it should turn out like this, so that the foundation rises above the ground level by about 0.7 meters.

The thickness of the foundation should be equal to the thickness of one cinder block or slightly more. Before laying the cinder block the foundation must be waterproofed from the wall, after which you can proceed to the masonry process. But you need to understand that the foundation must be flat for the successful laying of the first row of blocks, otherwise the entire construction process will be spent in vain.

Required tools

For correct laying you need to acquire the following tools:

construction trowel;
building level;
cord for aligning rows. You can use regular clothesline or fishing line;
hammer;
plumb line;
ordering;
masonry template;
circular saw or hacksaw.

DIY cinder block laying, step by step instructions

In principle, the process of laying blocks is similar to brickwork, with the exception that the block is larger than the brick in size, so the laying is carried out several times faster.

The laying of the first row of cinder blocks must be taken especially seriously, since it sets the evenness of the entire wall

How to lay blocksby yourself, step by step instructions:

the mixture is prepared in a concrete mixer;
the mortar is placed on the foundation, while the thickness of the mortar should not exceed 1.5 cm, otherwise the thermal insulation of the masonry will be disturbed;
the mixture is leveled and, along a pre-stretched cord, a cinder block is laid;
align the cinder block in level, tapping the back of the trowel into the required place of the cinder block;
immediately remove the excess solution from the cracks, which was squeezed out under the weight of the cinder block;
when laying the next row, the floor of the block is laid in the corners. To get it, you can cut a whole cinder block in half using a grinder or a hacksaw.

After the row has been laid, it must be carefully leveled again using a lace and a building level. Subsequent rows are laid in exactly the same way as the first.

You can see that the process of laying blocks practically does not differ from masonry of foam blocks, which can also be done by hand. The masonry is the same due to the fact that both materials have practically the same dimensions.

Reinforcement of walls

In order to increase the strength of the walls, distribute the load and reduce the risk of cracking, reinforcement is used.

The following materials can be used for reinforcement:

reinforcing mesh (mesh) for masonry. Usually it is a mesh, with a cell of 50 × 50 mm. They put it between the rows;
reinforcement or reinforcement cage.

Be sure to reinforce the first row of masonry. Also, every fourth row of the wall is reinforced. In addition, door and window openings are reinforced without fail.

Template for laying cinder blocks

Professionals usually lay down the cinder block without any tools. But if the laying is done by a beginner, you must have on hand a template for laying cinder blocks, which you can do with your own hands. Such a template can be made from available tools, for example, from wooden planks.

The size of the template is calculated based on the dimensions of the cinder block. After all, the sizes of one cinder block can vary, especially if the material was made at home. Template height should be 1-1.5 cm based on seam thickness.

Price category

The construction site is a place of increased danger. Therefore, it is necessary to observe safety precautions and work with gloves and a helmet.

Before laying cinder block walls, you need to find out the price for the work. Builders usually charge 20 rubles for laying one cinder block... Based on this, you can find out how much the construction of the required building will cost, knowing its dimensions. Of course, it is better to lay cinder blocks yourself, and you can save a lot. In this case, the costs will only be for the material itself.

Price for 1 piece of cinder block:

To determine how much material will be spent on construction, you need to know the dimensions of the future building, as well as the dimensions of the cinder block itself, which are 390x190x188 mm. It can be seen that the dimensions are quite large, so the construction speed increases several times compared to ordinary bricks.

The evenness of the masonry along the cord and at the building level should be checked as often as possible in order to avoid the curvature of the walls and rows in the future.

If the walls are not planned to be finished with anything in the future, then the seams between the rows should have an attractive appearance. To do this, you can use a small rounded stick, which you need press the seams a little after each row laid, while the mortar has not yet hardened.

When marking blocks, it is necessary use crayons... They are best seen on cinder blocks, compared to, for example, a regular pencil.

To increase plasticity a little detergent can be added to the solution.

It is necessary to mix exactly as much solution as will be consumed at a time. Otherwise, the unused mortar may harden and be unsuitable for construction.

It is advisable to plaster the outer walls, because cinder block is afraid of moisture... In this case, the plaster will protect the material. But since the plaster is poorly applied to the cinder block and can fall off over time, it is necessary to use a reinforcement mesh. Internal walls can be sheathed with plasterboard.

Conclusion

If you know how to properly lay cinder blocks with your own hands, then you can save a lot during the construction process. After all, the services of professional builders are not cheap, and do-it-yourself masonry is not difficult.

If you approach the masonry process responsibly, you can avoid many problems in the future. And a building can stand up to a hundred years if the correct construction technology was followed.

You can see how to earn time on laying cinder block walls with your own hands in the video:

Related books:

It is always helpful for homeowners to have some building skills. This not only simplifies the arrangement and housekeeping, but also significantly saves the family budget. When the need arises for the construction of utility rooms, the ability to properly lay the cinder block with your own hands will come in handy.

Pros and cons of cinder concrete
Step-by-step installation technology
Masonry features

Characteristic features of cinder blocks

The material is of artificial origin and looks like a large compressed element. The binder is cement. Blast furnace slag, granite or stone screenings, coarse sand, ash, perlite, broken glass are used as fillers. To improve technical and operational parameters, plasticizers are introduced into the composition. The standard dimensions are 390 x 190 x 188 mm. Such large items are much easier to lay out than bricks. Masonry terms are shortened, and mortar is saved.

In appearance and main purpose, cinder blocks are of several types: hollow, full-bodied, semi-blocks and decorative. The latter option serves for finishing and strengthening the moisture resistance of the outer walls of the house.

Advantages:

cheapness;
wide use;
big sizes.

Disadvantages:

high thermal conductivity;
insufficient sound insulation;
weak frost resistance;
strong moisture absorption.

It is not recommended to make basements, wells, drainage pits from cinder blocks. It will be correct to use them for the construction of unheated premises. You can lay out a shed, garage, summer kitchen, workshop with your own hands. If you build a residential building from such material, then the walls from the inside and outside must be seriously insulated and veneered.

Step-by-step instructions for laying blocks

Considering the scheme for the construction of walls, we will assume that the foundation for them is already ready and insulated. The main thing is that the base is the same (or slightly larger) width as the cinder blocks. There should be no bumps or dimples on the surface.

1. Preparation.

The set of tools includes:

water level;
plumb line (line or twine);
trowel;
rubber hammer (mallet);
ordering;
hand-held circular saw or hacksaw;
respirator (be sure to wear when cutting blocks).

Lay 4 elements in the vertices of the corners, achieving a correct rectangle, fix the rows with marks. It will be easier to lay blocks along them, focusing on their thickness and width of the seams. Pull the cord between the rows, along which it is convenient to adjust the styling. Prepare the grout in a concrete mixer.

2. First row.

The evenness of the walls and the durability of the entire structure depend on how correctly the initial layer is laid out.

Apply a layer of grout and spread it evenly over the surface of the foundation.
Take one block in the middle with your left hand and bring it to the masonry site at an angle of 45 °. Then unfold it parallel to the wall and lay it down.
Fit the stone under the stretched cord by tapping lightly with a hammer.
Remove excess composition from the cracks, which squeezed out under the weight of the stone.
Install the second and third stone in the same way.
Check the evenness of the row using a plumb line and a hydro level.
Continue to lay the bricks to the end, periodically checking their position.

3. Subsequent rows.

The installation of the second and all even layers should be started from half of the block in order to shift the row. Otherwise, they operate according to the same technology as for the first layer: applying mortar, placing a stone, aligning along a cord, removing excess.

The nuances of masonry work

We need cement of the M400 or M500 brand. Any sand is suitable, but it is better that it be gray (river). The addition of plasticizers gives elasticity, reduces porosity and facilitates application. To save money, a special substance can be replaced with red clay or wood ash (a third of a bucket for 4 buckets of mixture), as well as a household detergent.

2. How to prepare your own masonry composition?

Pour a dry mixture of cement and sand into the drum of a concrete mixer, maintaining a ratio of 1: 3. Switch on the unit and, adding water in small portions, knead the medium viscosity solution. Add the plasticizer at the very end.

3. How to determine the volume of one batch?

When preparing DSP, adhere to this rule: knead enough to last for an hour and a half work. It takes a bucket of mixture to install four blocks. The unused composition hardens quickly and becomes unusable in the future.

4. What is the optimum seam thickness?

Cement joints must reliably hold the masonry, therefore it is very important to carefully seal all the cracks, maintaining a thickness of 10-15 mm. The wet solution that is released after leveling is removed and placed between the stones. According to the instructions, it is not recommended to smear it on the surface of the cinder block, filling in irregularities - this worsens the insulating qualities of the material.

5. Where to start installation?

Determine the method and thickness of the masonry. Depending on the purpose of the building and climatic conditions, it can be placed in one, one and a half or two stones. For internal partitions, a spoon method of erection is usually used - in half a cinder block.

6. What is jointing?

If the walls are not supposed to be lined, then the seams need to be "embroidered". To do this, use a special knife in the form of a curved hollow tube with an oblique cut. Its diameter should be equal to the width of the seam. Use a tool to draw on all inter-block connections, applying light pressure. The result is a beautiful and even jointing.

7. What is reinforcement used for?

To strengthen the walls, reduce the load and prevent cracks, reinforcement should be placed between the cinder blocks. This rule is mandatory for the first and every fourth row of the wall.

The following materials are used for work:

Metal mesh with a mesh size of 50 × 50 mm - to prevent rusting, it is covered with a masonry compound.
Steel rods - placed in the grooves between the blocks and protect the DSP from above.
Reinforcing frame - made of galvanized steel strips, connecting them together with wire. Fixed in the wall with mortar or glue.

According to the instructions, window and door openings are also subject to mandatory reinforcement.

Before starting, you should think about how to carry out the work yourself at height. An ordinary ladder or stepladder is not well suited for this purpose. It is best to use a scaffold or a special platform with height adjustment. Accessories and a bucket of solution fit well on it.
Hollow cinder block masonry is always made with holes down.
In the process of work, you have to repeatedly put marks on the wall. It is convenient to do this with colored crayons, which are clearly visible on cinder blocks.
If necessary, you can change the color of the seam joints: add soot, lime or copper sulfate. The seams will turn black, white, or bluish.

In this manual, we will describe the whole process of laying bricks, starting from checking the foundation and ending with laying several rows of bricks in the laid out corners.

We took as an example:

rectangular foundation (this instruction can also be applied to the basement);
wall thickness in half a brick with bandaging of seams.

Outline of the article:

Tools and materials
We check the horizontalness of the foundation with a hydraulic level
Checking the diagonals of the foundation
Waterproofing before laying bricks
Layout of the first row and marking of the foundation
We prepare the brick and the workplace
Preparation of the solution
We lay out the first brick
Putting the corners
Installing the mooring cord
Laying rows along the berth
Reinforcement of masonry SNiP

Tools and materials

To begin with, we will prepare all the necessary tools and materials for the upcoming work.

Instruments:

Trowel (trowel)
Pick hammer
Soviet shovel
Embroidery
Ordering
Mooring cord
Hydro level
Plumb line
Building level
2 templates: metal rod 10x10mm and 12x12mm
Concrete mixer or trough
Gloves

A detailed description of the tools can be viewed on our website www.gvozdem.ru in the article "Tools for bricklaying".

Materials (edit)

Brick
For mortar: cement, sand, plasticizer or lime or Fairy
Masonry mesh for reinforcement

Preparatory work. Foundation

So, let's begin. We have a rectangular strip foundation on which we will erect a half-brick wall.

We check the horizontality of the foundation with a hydraulic level

First, you need to determine how flat we got the horizontal surface of the foundation relative to the ground level? For this purpose, we will use the water level and check the corners first, and then the entire perimeter along the foundation. (When filling the water level with water, make sure that there are no bubbles in the tube, otherwise the measurements may not be accurate).

In the picture, we see that both corners are at the same level. As the masters say, "is at zero." But this method of measurement cannot be applied if our foundation has discrepancies relative to the level. So let's move on to a more practical way.

Let us lower the 1st flask of the hydrolevel relative to the foundation so that the “0” mark is 5 cm below the upper surface of the foundation (provided that the maximum difference in the foundation at our maximum point is slightly less than 5 cm). Opposite the "0" mark on the flask, we put a mark on the foundation. We will not touch this flask now. To begin with, let's check all the outer corners of the foundation, in our case there are 4. To do this, we will transfer the 2nd flask to all 3 corners, and put a mark on the foundation opposite the mark "0", which is on the 2nd flask. Then we repeat the steps with the 2nd flask, transferring it to other measured points on the foundation.

When we have placed all the marks, we begin to measure the distances between the mark on the foundation and the upper edge of the foundation. In the figure, we measured the distance on two segments: a and b. Suppose the distance is a = 5cm and b = 5cm (a = b). Consequently, the foundation at these points is brought to "0".

The second option is a = 5cm, b = 3cm. Therefore, there is a difference of 2 cm relative to zero. Such a foundation must be leveled, while we take the highest point on the foundation as zero. There are several ways to align:

a leveling screed on a cement-sand mortar using formwork,
brickwork, changing the thickness of the horizontal joint.

If the difference is large, then it is better to level it with a solution, if it is small, then it is possible with the help of masonry. Just remember that the permissible thickness of the horizontal seam according to SNiP should be 12mm with a tolerance of + 3, -2mm (according to SNiP 3.03.01-87). When reinforcing, the maximum joint thickness should not exceed 16mm. And also for reference: the permissible permissible deviation from the horizontal by 10m of masonry is up to 15mm, which is then eliminated by the next row.

Checking the diagonals of the foundation

The second important point when checking the foundation should be given to the diagonals. Ideally, the diagonals in a rectangular foundation should match. According to the figure, we have displayed the coincidence of the diagonals in a small equality D1 = D2. If they are equal, we can judge that all our parallel sides have the same length and all 4 angles are at 90 degrees. These conditions are important to us so that our walls are smooth.

If there is a slight discrepancy in the diagonals, then this inaccuracy can be compensated during laying by reducing the long side and increasing the short one. Of course, if the thickness of the foundation and the thickness of the masonry allow us to do this.

Waterproofing

After we figured out the measurements of the foundation, we proceed to the next stage: waterproofing the upper part of the foundation. It is performed using 2 layers of roofing material. The second layer is laid with the overlap of the seams of the first by 10 - 15 cm. Roofing material can be laid in several ways:

dry, temporarily press the roofing material to the foundation with bricks (so as not to be blown away by the wind);
for bituminous mastic or heated bitumen;
gluing the surface of the roofing material by heating with a burner.

The modern roofing material has several modifications: rubemast, glass roofing material (stekloizol), euroruberoid. According to their characteristics, they are superior to ordinary roofing material, but their price is also higher. A wide selection of roll waterproofing is offered by Technonikol.

Why do you need to waterproof the foundation before masonry? It's simple - so that moisture from the foundation does not pass into the basement or into the brick walls. Moisture can be not only due to rains and melting snow, but also simply from the capillary suction of water from the soil by our foundation. Moreover, if we have a brick basement and brick walls, then we will need to waterproof it twice:

between the foundation and the plinth;
between the plinth and the brick wall.

Layout of the first row and marking of the foundation

The next step is to lay out the first row of bricks dry, that is, without using mortar.

What is it for? Masonry is considered ideal when the walls are laid out using whole bricks (without three-quarters, halves, and even more so quarters). Of course, the masonry of the corners is not taken into account, since there, for bandaging, shares of a brick are needed, and zabutka where you can use a share of a brick. We are mainly talking about facial masonry, which should, as they say, "please the eye." Therefore, at this stage, we will lay out the entire first row dry around the entire perimeter with 10mm vertical seams. In order for the seam to be the same everywhere, we will use a template (metal square rod 10x10mm). If, as a result of the layout, we see that the last whole brick does not reach the edge of the foundation, or vice versa, the brick hangs over the foundation, then we can reduce or increase the width of the vertical seam. According to SNiP (3-03-01-87), the tolerance for vertical seams is + -2mm. If you really can't do without a share of a brick, then prepare it right away and determine where to place it. You also need to take into account that if we put the front brick above the basement, then we can make a small extension of the outer verst beyond the edges of the basement, since the basement will be plastered in the future.

After we have laid the entire row, it is necessary to make marks on the foundation (or plinth), where we will have vertical seams. Due to the fact that each brick has small errors from standard sizes, it is recommended to use exactly the brick that we used during dry masonry during masonry. Therefore, after marking, simply place each brick on the foundation opposite the marks. At the same time, if you have laid the roofing material dry, just press it temporarily to the foundation with a brick.

We prepare the brick and the workplace

Do not forget that it is advisable to use the solution within 1-3 hours until it begins to set. Therefore, it is advisable to perform all preparatory work before preparing the solution, namely:

Fold small stacks of bricks along the foundation. If the width of the foundation allows, then the brick can be placed directly on the foundation. The main thing is that he does not interfere with you during laying and at the same time you can easily reach him.
Prepare the necessary tool for work.

There is another type of work that is recommended to be done mainly when working with red solid bricks. Namely, wet the brick with water. Just not until it is completely saturated with water, otherwise the brick will float on the solution. Then the question is logical how long you need to wet the brick. Experienced bricklayers, according to the results of voting on one popular forum, share this opinion into the following proportions:

do not wet 10%,
soak for a couple of seconds 50%
soak for 15 minutes 40%

Decide which method to choose for yourself, but if you are new to brick laying, we recommend that you soak it for a while. Wet brick retains a sufficiently long mobility in the mortar, thereby giving you the opportunity to eliminate possible defects. It is believed that the seam when using wet brick is stronger, since there is no suction of moisture from the solution by the brick itself. If you are really too lazy to soak a brick in water, then there is an easy way - just pour over the brick abundantly with a garden hose. © www.gvozdem.ru

Preparation of the solution

For laying bricks, we need a cement-sand mortar. To prepare it, we will use the following ratio:

1 share of cement (shovel, bucket, kg)
4 shares of sand (shovel, bucket, kg)
lime or plasticizer or liquid soap (Fairy)
water (by eye).

The ratio of cement to sand may differ depending on the characteristics of the cement-sand mortar we need (1 share of cement to 2.5-6 shares of sand). A plasticizer is added to make the solution plastic. This characteristic is important for comfortable work during masonry.

How to cook?

We take a container for mixing the solution. Ideally, a concrete mixer is best. If it is not there, then any container convenient for these purposes (trough, etc.) will do.
We put 4 shovels of sand into the concrete mixer, and then 1 shovel of cement. We mix.
Add water to the eye to get the consistency we need. At the same time add 2-3 drops of Fairy (either plasticizer or lime) previously diluted in a small amount of water. Mix thoroughly.

The solution should resemble thick honey or cottage cheese, depending on which solution we need.

You can also use our calculator for calculating the composition of the mortar and calculating the number of mixes for a concrete mixer: Calculator for calculating the composition of the mortar

Bricklaying process

We start laying from the corners, the rows of which are drawn opposite each other on the same level. Why from the corners? Because the corners will serve as landmarks along which the walls will be laid out using a mooring cord. The cord is pulled between 2 adjacent rows of bricks that make up the corner. Therefore, it is very important to maintain the horizontal and vertical angles running at the same level against each other.

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the so-called "bed" from the solution. If you don't have a lot of experience, then we recommend putting the mortar on one brick that we are going to lay. The thickness of the laid mortar should be somewhere between 20-25mm (by eye), so that when the brick is pressed down, the thickness of the horizontal joint becomes 12mm (the standard of the horizontal joint). Put the solution with a trowel. Our bed should not reach the edge of the foundation (or the underlying brick) by 20-30mm, if we are going to embroider the seams with a washer, or 10-15mm, if undercutting. In order for us to get the 12 mm seam we need, you can use a template (metal rod 12x12mm), which we lay along the very edge of the foundation in the place where we will lay the brick. We need a template from a rod before installing the order. Then, to maintain the thickness of the horizontal seam, it will be possible to use divisions in order. By the marks on the foundation, we control the location of the vertical seams of the first row.

We turn to the process of laying bricks on the mortar. We take a brick, put it on the bed and press down slightly. Then, using a level, we check the horizon and vertical in 3 directions and if we see discrepancies somewhere, we slightly knock the brick with a hammer-pick or the handle of a trowel.

Putting the corners

Now, using the knowledge gained, we set the corners brick by brick. The main thing is not to forget that the quality of the masonry of the entire wall will largely depend on how correctly the corners are set. Therefore, we use both an eye and devices that will help us in setting angles.

Using a plumb line, we check the verticality of the masonry. The plumb line is considered a very accurate device for verifying the verticality of a surface. Probably the simplest and most accurate compared to the building level, which can sometimes fail. It makes no sense to use a plumb line when we have 1-2 rows of masonry, since it is difficult to determine by eye the divergence from the vertical in such a small area.

In the picture, we have displayed 3 points equally distant from the masonry. Based on the fact that the distances in these segments are equal, we can conclude that our masonry is laid out exactly vertically. To work with a plumb line, of course, you need to have a good eye gauge, since we determine all the distances between the masonry and the plumb line visually, by eye.

To maintain uniform horizontal seams and to control the horizontal alignment of the masonry, we recommend using the ordering. They will be especially useful for people with little experience in bricklaying. The orders are installed strictly vertically (along a plumb line or by level) and are attached to the masonry with the help of U-shaped brackets. The distance between the ordering divisions is 77mm for a single brick (brick thickness 65mm + 12mm seam) and 100mm for thickened brick (88mm + 12mm).

We pull on the mooring cord

After removing the corners, you can proceed directly to the laying of the wall. In order for the entire row to be at the same level, we pull the mooring cord between two opposite rows, which are displayed in the same horizontal line. For mooring, you can use either a nylon thread, or a fishing line, or an analogue. The main thing is that it is strong and visible to you when laying. The berth can be attached:

to order, if holes are provided in it;
with staples and nails.

We have shown both methods in the figures.

The mooring is fastened with a vertical offset of 2-3 mm from the masonry, so that there is no contact between the mooring and the brick along its entire length.

If there are no holes in the dock, then you can follow the simplest and most common way of installing the dock. For this we need 1 nail and 1 bracket for 1 corner. We insert the nail into the finished seam and tie a mooring to it. Then we insert the mooring into the bracket. We put the bracket with a pier threaded into it on the brick, along which we will make a row and press the bracket with a free-lying brick from above (without mortar). A rigid wire bent in half can serve as a bracket. The figure shows in detail how it will look visually.

If the dock sags, then you need to install the so-called beacons. For this purpose, 2 bricks are taken. The first is placed, taking into account the thickness of the seam, on the mortar or a rod template (12x12mm), and the second is poked on the first brick. We insert a nail between the bricks, onto which the mooring is wound tightly.

We lay out the bottom row of the wall between the corners

Along the stretched dock, we place the first row of bricks between the two corners. The thickness of the vertical joints and the location of the bricks are controlled according to the risks on the foundation.

Laying out the rest of the rows

Then we lay the remaining rows according to the same principle with bandaging the seams (in our case, bandaging in half a brick). At the same time, we no longer put risks as on the foundation for the first row, but we make sure that the vertical seams through the row are at the same level. In the figure, this is for example the seams in the 1st and 3rd row. You will find more detailed information about the types and methods of bandaging seams in our article “All about brickwork. Suture dressing ".

Further, according to this principle, all the walls of our building are exposed. Do not forget to monitor the cleanliness of the front side of the masonry and to embroider the seams until the mortar has set. Also, if it is necessary to reinforce the masonry, we determine through how many rows we will do it (usually every 5-6 rows). © www.gvozdem.ru

Reinforcement of masonry

SNiP II-22-81 "Stone and reinforced masonry structures".

That's all. If you missed something or have questions, you can ask them in the comments.

Advantages:

cheapness;
wide use;
big sizes.

Disadvantages:

high thermal conductivity;
insufficient sound insulation;
weak frost resistance;
strong moisture absorption.

It is not recommended to make basements, wells, drainage pits from cinder blocks. It will be correct to use them for the construction of unheated premises. You can lay out a shed, garage, summer kitchen, workshop with your own hands. If you build a residential building from such material, then the walls from the inside and outside must be seriously insulated and veneered.

Step-by-step instructions for laying blocks

1. Preparation.

The set of tools includes:

water level;
plumb line (line or twine);
trowel;
rubber hammer (mallet);
ordering;
hand-held circular saw or hacksaw;
respirator (be sure to wear when cutting blocks).

2. First row.

The evenness of the walls and the durability of the entire structure depend on how correctly the initial layer is laid out.

Apply a layer of grout and spread it evenly over the surface of the foundation.
Take one block in the middle with your left hand and bring it to the masonry site at an angle of 45 °. Then unfold it parallel to the wall and lay it down.
Fit the stone under the stretched cord by tapping lightly with a hammer.
Remove excess composition from the cracks, which squeezed out under the weight of the stone.
Install the second and third stone in the same way.
Check the evenness of the row using a plumb line and a hydro level.
Continue to lay the bricks to the end, periodically checking their position.

3. Subsequent rows.

The nuances of masonry work

2. How to prepare your own masonry composition?

3. How to determine the volume of one batch?

4. What is the optimum seam thickness?

5. Where to start installation?

6. What is jointing?

7. What is reinforcement used for?

To strengthen the walls, reduce the load and prevent cracks, reinforcement should be placed between the cinder blocks. This rule is mandatory for the first and every fourth row of the wall.

The following materials are used for work:

Metal mesh with a mesh size of 50 × 50 mm - to prevent rusting, it is covered with a masonry compound.
Steel rods - placed in the grooves between the blocks and protect the DSP from above.
Reinforcing frame - made of galvanized steel strips, connecting them together with wire. Fixed in the wall with mortar or glue.

According to the instructions, window and door openings are also subject to mandatory reinforcement.

Before starting, you should think about how to carry out the work yourself at height. An ordinary ladder or stepladder is not well suited for this purpose. It is best to use a scaffold or a special platform with height adjustment. Accessories and a bucket of solution fit well on it.
Hollow cinder block masonry is always made with holes down.
In the process of work, you have to repeatedly put marks on the wall. It is convenient to do this with colored crayons, which are clearly visible on cinder blocks.
If necessary, you can change the color of the seam joints: add soot, lime or copper sulfate. The seams will turn black, white, or bluish.

The question of how to lay a cinder block is asked when they build the walls of a garage, an outbuilding or a fence.

For the construction of residential buildings, this material is no longer used; it was replaced by foam and gas blocks.

The main advantages of the cinder block:

the composition includes ordinary sand and cement, as well as gypsum, lime and slag;
excellent strength, exemplary resistance to moisture and mechanical stress;
lightweight and easy to use;
low cost.

The only drawback is low thermal conductivity. In cold weather, a house made from cinder blocks quickly loses heat through the walls. However, the demand for this construction raw material is not falling.

This disadvantage helps to eliminate a huge selection of heaters. So after a consultation on how to properly lay the cinder block, get down to business without undue hesitation.

It is not worth hiring a construction team, there is nothing super complicated in laying a cinder block with your own hands.

First, prepare your tools:

hacksaw or circular saw;
building level;
cord or fishing line;
hammer;
water level;
trowel;
ordering.

The foundation on which the laying is carried out should be slightly wider than the width of the cinder block (at least by 4 cm).

The platform for construction is made with waterproofing, since the components of the cinder block - lime and sand, do not tolerate contact with water.

The foundation, in order to prevent the curvature of the future building, cannot be uneven.

Before starting to do it yourself, find a scaffold to stand on. They will come in handy if the calculated clutch height is higher than your chest level.

Reaching the masonry in your hands with a cinder block will become a hefty torment, because you need to take into account how much this material weighs. It is larger and heavier than a brick.

A simple stepladder will not help in this case, there is no place on it to put a bucket of solution.
The consistency of the solution is of no small importance.

The correct solution is plastic, but not spreading, thick, like sour cream.

According to the rules, the solution for laying the cinder block is prepared from the same amount of sand and cement and one third of red clay. The components are thoroughly mixed with the addition of water.

How much and in what proportions to mix these 4 components is described in detail in the video.

You can prepare cinder blocks with your own hands. Two boards are connected to each other, two meters long with transverse boards.

The extreme boards are fastened to the longitudinal ones. With the help of a chisel, a cut of 14 centimeters is formed in the longitudinal boards.

Then, cells are cut out in the prepared material, which then need to be painted with oil paint. After the actions taken, a mixture of concrete and ash is poured there.

Then, holes are cut out in the prepared material and painted with oil paint. There must be voids in the cinder block to provide additional heat.

When the mortar in the mold hardens, you can tap it with a hammer and pull out the finished block. It is recommended to wait a day, and only then do the styling.

Corners and first row

The first blocks are placed in the corners of the building. This must be approached conscientiously and diligently: how straight the masonry will be in the corners, so even it will be on the walls.

Therefore, it is necessary to actively use the order (rectangular corner), checking each step.

On the foundation, on both sides of the corner, a steel spatula (trowel) is spread with an even layer of mortar, on which two cinder blocks are placed at an angle of 90 degrees. Their upper side is again covered with a solution.

At this stage of the masonry, the level of the horizontal line is checked, and the vertical line is checked with a plumb line.

If there is distortion, it is easy to correct with a hammer, gently tapping on the blocks from the right side. The same method must be used when laying the rest of the corners.

Then a nail is driven into the joints between all the lower and upper blocks in order to pull thick fishing line over them.

Along this conditional line, they continue to lay the first row of cinder block, not forgetting to apply the building level.

If suddenly the last element of the perimeter masonry does not fit into its place due to its larger size, then it can be reduced with an ordinary hacksaw. Cinder blocks are sawn without problems.

You only need to adjust the size of the block with a saw in a respirator and goggles - a lot of dust and grains of slag flies during sawing.

Second and subsequent rows

A solution is poured onto all the seams of the masonry, removing the excess with a spatula. Then other rows are laid. The cinder block is not laid according to the principle of brickwork, erecting one wall, and then another.

It is placed along the perimeter of the building.

The new row also begins to be laid from the corner. A second cinder block is placed on the block in the bottom row, and a third block is placed on it, closing the seams. The entire second row is placed with cinder blocks, following the example of the first.

At the same time, they periodically look at the correctness of laying in a horizontal and vertical position.

The trimmed parts should be in the masonry as far apart as possible, for example, in opposite corners.

The masonry condition of the two starting rows is very important. Therefore, it is not worth starting construction in a hurry. Subsequently, the progress of the construction will accelerate.

If you have practical baggage behind you, then you can check the horizontal lines after 3-6 blocks, vertical lines - after 4 rows made.

The edges between the cinder blocks should be kept in the size of one or one and a half cm. If you make the seams very narrow, then the masonry will be less reliable, huge seams will lead to heat leakage from the house.

It is not advised to apply the solution to the voids inside the blocks.

The opinion that this will add strength is erroneous. Rather, it will violate the thermal insulation properties of the wall and increase the consumption of mortar components.

Styling technologies

Cinder block laying is usually done in one of two ways.

Method number 1 - spoon, that is, in half a stone. It is most common.

Method number 2 - bonding, otherwise, in one stone. The technology of laying in 2 or one and a half stones is possible only when building houses for permanent residence, where the walls are 75-80 centimeters thick.

This construction technology coincides with the brick laying method.

It makes no sense to cover cinder block walls with plaster, it will not hold, since the material has poor adhesion.

It is strongly advised to decorate each wall of a cinder block structure with decorative stone.

If you are planning to build a cinder block structure, do not lose sight of the fact that harmful volatile compounds may be contained in the cinder block.

Therefore, you can leave it for a while in an open place or in a ventilated building.

If the laying of the cinder block is done according to all the rules, then taking into account the special nuances, then you will build an impeccable cinder block room with your own hands.

If your understanding did not meet all the subtleties of the above technology, then watch the video in our article.

Excess cinder block, as a rule, is left on the porch or on the foundation.

It is appropriate to make a porch from a cinder block if there is a significant difference between the level of the yard and the house.

The cinder block foundation is laid only where there is dry soil, for a house with a small load.

Groundwater should flow below the frozen soil layer.

You also need to take into account how many floors there will be in the building. If there is more than one, it is better to change your mind and build a concrete base.

Do not ignore the fact that the cinder block has pores, which is why it must be well insulated and revetted.