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Switch (8) for circular saw CRP1200/185 ""Hammer"" - BSI-Instrument Ufa | | XMP15832 | Switch (8) for circular saw CRP1200/185 ""Hammer"" | PCS | 134.00 | 137.00 | 143.00 | 152.00 | 168.00 | 183.00 | there is in stock in Ufa |
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For any home craftsman, having their own stationary sawing machine is time saving and safe work.
You can buy a ready-made stationary circular. The cost of small machines starts from 9,000 rubles, more or less decent stationary saws are sold in the price range from 30 to 100 thousand.
Despite the apparent complexity of the design, any craftsman with elementary locksmith skills can make a homemade circular saw. Moreover, during the design process it is possible to add functions that are not provided by the manufacturer.
What is a circular saw for?
Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the main tasks of the sawing machine. If you just need to cut firewood for the winter, or do basic carpentry work like making a fence, a sturdy table with a slot for a saw blade is enough. Such options are popular in rural areas.
Circular for working with logs
Of course, there can be no question of any safety and functionality when using such a device.
In some of these "models" there is a shaft for fixing the knives of a planer or jointer. As a rule, a bed is cooked from a corner or a channel, an electric motor is fixed on it from a decommissioned factory ventilation, and with the help of a pulley, the torque is transmitted to the disk. It makes no sense to describe in detail the manufacturing technology of such a machine.
Another thing is if you want to do carpentry work. In this case, you need a coordinate table with guides that are fixed at different angles.
Since such a stationary saw can work with small workpieces, it is necessary to take care of the safety of the operator. It is desirable to provide for the adjustment of the rotation speed and the possibility of easy change of discs with different diameters.
Be sure to install a protective cover over the disk, and cover the rotating parts of the drive with covers. The starting device is equipped with an emergency switch, and the stop button is placed in an accessible place and is made large.
Don't miss in an accident
How to make a circular, keeping a balance between economy, functionality and safety
Consider the main components that make up a home circular saw. You can make them yourself, but with certain skills and tools.
The frame can be made from a metal corner (channel) purchased from scrap metal collectors. If you have the funds, contact the metal rolling warehouse. Legs can be made from old water pipes, connecting them with corners.
A good option for a homemade frame made of rolled metal
IMPORTANT! The use of bolted connections is prohibited, because due to vibration, such a mount will unwind.
Electricity must be used. Be sure to reinforce the corner joints with a jib. The upper part of the frame (on which the table will rest) and the podium for the electric motor are made from a corner with a side of at least 50 mm.
If the machine is equipped with wheels for movement, they must be with steel rims and have locks. The higher the mass of the bed, the more stable the machine will be, and the safer the work will be.
Having drunk for some time with a manual circular saw (parquet), I realized its shortcomings - it is difficult and dangerous to cut off a small detail, for example, a piece of chipboard 10x10cm in size, etc.
And also when sawing boards along - the hand is very tired to hold the saw, this is the most convenient saw.
Then I decided to make a table for a circular saw with my own hands, only portable, so that I could put it on any chair or table and put it on a shelf when it was not needed, and also left the possibility of quickly turning it back into a manual circular saw - without removing any protections and etc.
Materials for the circular table
For the manufacture of a circular table, I used 3 mm sheet steel, cut off two squares measuring 45x50 cm. I marked a window for a saw blade with a protection of 26x200 mm and cut it out with a grinder, trimming the edges with a file.
At the base of the circular saw, I drilled 4 holes with a diameter of 6 mm for attaching the saw to the table.
Installing and fixing the saw
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Next, I installed the saw on a sheet with a window, accurately centered it and placed holes for attaching the saw studs. I used m6 studs. I drilled 5 mm holes for the saw studs and cut the M6 thread. The studs were screwed into the sheet so that there was 1 mm left to the edge of the sheet on the front side, then they were welded on the front side, just 1 mm was filled with liquid metal. This method of fastening proved to be quite durable.
Next, I marked 4 holes in each sheet for the location of the M10 racks, for them I did not cut the thread, because. the thread pitch is large for M10 and in a metal thickness of only 3 mm they will not hold well, but on the other hand, nothing needs to be attached to these studs closely, so they were simply welded from the bottom and top, the top was welded flush with the metal surface. Studs were welded only to the top sheet of metal.
The studs are fastened to the bottom sheet of metal with nuts on both sides. This is done so that you can easily disassemble the structure and quickly remove the saw.
The ruler was made from a 32 mm corner and two pieces of steel strip 40 mm wide.
In the strip, I had to cut grooves for the M8 lambs. I made the grooves like this - I drilled holes along the edges of the groove and cut the groove with a grinder, and then with my favorite file 🙂
The strips were welded to the corner by welding.
Then I checked everything that everything fit well, disassembled the structure into parts and painted it.
As a result, I got a great table for a circular saw.
Benefits of a Table Circular Saw
- it is convenient to work, unlike a hand saw;
- the saw can be installed on a chair, on the floor, on a table, and it also does not take up much space, it can be put on a shelf in the garage;
- the ruler allows you to cut wider workpieces up to 30 cm than the native ruler by 18 cm, if desired, you can make the ruler and table even larger;
- the saw with a slight movement of the hand and the wrench turns .... back into a manual circular;
- the saw still has protection on the disc, which ordinary table circulars usually do not have.
Disadvantages of a Table Circular Saw
- the switch on the saw is not fixed, so you need to either keep it pressed or insert a wooden wedge into the switch (I temporarily do this), which is not good for safety. But you can simply replace the switch on the saw, or equip the table with a socket with a switch.
I did not find any more shortcomings of my table for a circular saw.
Photo table circular saw:
The household often lacks a circular saw, especially if major repairs or construction are underway. Not everyone can afford industrial products - they are too expensive. But you can make a circular yourself, using the materials that are available in the household.
Design - the main nodes, their purpose
A do-it-yourself stationary circular saw is created with advancement in several possible directions:
- adaptation of an existing hand tool, using an engine and a circular saw for new opportunities;
- improvement of industrial products to expand functionality;
- assembly from separate parts, made mainly in-house.
A stationary circular machine includes several main components: a table, a shaft, an engine, and some others, the characteristics of which are not so important.
The table serves for fixing woodworking mechanisms. It can be assembled completely from metal, which is preferable, especially for machine tools with a large engine. Wood also makes good circular tables. But it must be borne in mind that the countertop should be covered with a sheet of metal, otherwise the wood will soon wear out. Tables must be very rigid and stable, capable of withstanding a considerable load during work. The surface is made perfectly flat; protective shields must be installed above the rotating parts.
For a homemade circular, the engine from the washing machine is well suited. Portable tools are less suitable: their collector motors are designed only for short-term work. They have very high speeds, low efficiency, they are afraid of clogging. You can use a three-phase electric motor, but if there is no 380 V on the farm, you will need to purchase capacitors to make it work from 220 V.
The most responsible node is the shaft. Use ready-made, if available, or machined from round metal. Work on a lathe is performed in one setup, then, together with the working bodies, the centering is checked. Even the minimum beat is unacceptable, otherwise it will become stronger in work, at which it is unacceptable to work. Seats are provided on the shaft: for a circular saw and for pulleys on the other side. You can also make grooves for planer knives.
Basic parameters - calculation of power, revolutions, transmission
The characteristics of the saw blade, the engine and the maximum thickness of the lumber that can be cut are interrelated. On the purchased circular disk, the maximum speed for which it is designed is indicated. The number of revolutions transmitted by the engine to the shaft should be less. The power of the motor influences the maximum allowable sawtooth diameter. The diameter must be at least three times the thickness of the material, otherwise sawing will be difficult. It is believed that for sawing materials with a thickness of 100 mm, you need a motor of at least 1 kW of power.
The transmission is made only by a V-belt - if foreign objects get under the saw, the material is jammed, the belt slips on the pulleys. Traumatism in such cases is practically excluded. It is important to choose the right gear ratio. We take into account two indicators: engine speed and the maximum allowable number of revolutions of the circular saw. We calculate the required diameters of the pulleys. A pulley with a large diameter is installed on the engine, and a smaller one on the shaft for the circular to increase the number of revolutions.
The revolutions of the shaft with a circular saw are as many times greater than the revolutions of the engine, as the diameter of its pulley is smaller than the diameter of the pulley on the engine.
Woodworking machine - a capital product for the home
For working with wood in large volumes, it is better to have a machine that allows you to cut the material, plan, choose a quarter. Requires a sufficiently powerful electric motor, hard table. We present a structure made of steel angle and sheet steel. It provides a cutting depth of 60 mm, it is possible to plan boards with a width of 200 mm. A three-phase motor 1.1 kW, 2700 rpm is used. Capacitors are required for connection to 220V.
1 - machine frame; 2 - panel; 3 - starter; 4 - a device for adjusting the height; 5.7 - desktop of two halves; 6 - base; 8 - engine; 9 - platform; 10 - studs M10; 11 - circular disk; 12 - shaft; 13 - stops of the lifting mechanism; 14 - driven pulley; 15 - belt; 16 - drive pulley; 17 - switch.
The working table has dimensions of 700×300 mm. In the drawing we see that the height of the entire structure is 350 mm. The height is insufficient for comfortable work, the circular will have to be installed on an additional platform, it weighs only 35 kg. You can increase the length and width, increase the height up to 1200 mm. We adjust the rest of the dimensions to fit them, but the design features remain unchanged.
First, we make the bed frame from steel corners 25 × 25 mm. If we are not going to increase the height, we make another same lower frame. For a frame with a greater height, first we weld four legs from the same corners to the upper frame, and then we tie them at a height of 15–20 cm from the bottom. The lower frame has slots for the motor platform locking bolts. Two studs are welded to the back side of the platform, which go into the holes on the back of the lower frame. Tightening the studs, tighten the belts, then lock the platform by tightening the nuts on the studs that go into the grooves.
To adjust the height of the table in relation to the saw, we use a simple lifting mechanism. It consists of racks, in the upper part of which we cut grooves at an angle of 45 °. In total, eight racks are needed - four on each side. We weld them to the frame with grooves located in a mirror image. We attach the crossbars to the outer racks. In the middle of each of them we drill holes, weld nuts. Threaded shafts will move along them to control the rise.
At the end, they rest against the racks welded to the drawers assembled from the corners of 75 × 50 mm. On the side, we weld the studs into them opposite the grooves for the adjusting mechanism. The table consists of two equal halves and is attached to the sides with countersunk bolts. The adjustment mechanism works like this:
- loosen the nuts on the racks;
- turn the screw that presses the stop, raising or lowering the table;
- tighten the stud nuts;
- perform a similar adjustment for the second half of the working surface.
The design can be simplified without installing the adjusting shaft. Raise and lower the table manually. If you assemble the table not from two halves, but as a solid one, you will need only four racks for the lifting mechanism.
Hand-held circular saw - turning into a stationary one
It is easy to make a stationary one from a manual circular saw, expanding its capabilities. The first thing you need is a table. Finnish plywood will serve as a convenient material, which, unlike ordinary plywood, is laminated - the workpieces slide well over the surface during processing. It is thick enough to withstand a lot of weight, moisture resistant, and can be processed well. You can use ordinary plywood 20 mm, only it needs to be painted, and it is better to cover it with sheet steel or textolite.
It must be understood that the depth of cut will decrease by the thickness of the cover. You will need a large diameter disc so as not to reduce functionality compared to a portable tool. We make the dimensions of the tabletop sufficient so that the workpiece fits in width. It should be added that an electric planer and a jigsaw can be additionally strengthened on a wide table, which will make the machine universal.
Using drawings and explanations, it is not difficult to make accessories for a circular saw that will expand its capabilities.
We mark a rectangle of the required dimensions on a sheet of plywood, cut it out, process the edges. With the sole we apply a hand circular to the surface and mark the attachment points with a pencil. We make a slot for a circular saw. You can slightly deepen the attachment point using a cutter, but not more than 10 mm, so as not to weaken the countertop. This manufacturing method will bring the depth of cut closer to the circular saw indicated in the passport.
We make a frame (tsargi) from the boards, which we will install from below to strengthen the structure. We fasten four boards into a box, glue it to the countertop, securing it with clamps. Through the table we screw screws into the boards. The holes for them are countersinked on top so that the heads of the self-tapping screws are hidden. We fasten the legs to the sides of the stationary saw, preferably with bolts with washers and nuts. The table should be provided with additional rigidity, so we make spacers at the bottom of the legs.
We make a restrictive bar equal to the length of the working surface. In it we drill two grooves perpendicular to the disk, in which the bar will move and be fixed at a certain distance from the saw blade. It remains to make changes to the control system: we fix the control button in the on state with electrical tape. We install a socket connected to the network on the drawer. In the break of the wire going to the saw, we mount the switch.
Some moments of the execution of home-made devices
No matter how well the circular is made, individual errors can lead to the fact that its performance will be limited. This concerns, at first glance, seemingly trifles. Let's start with the bearings for the shaft. The installation of conventional is justified if the machine is used from time to time. For a homemade device with constant use, it is better to install self-aligning bearings. They consist of two rows of balls, adjustable by tightening the clamping nut. Install a cover to protect against dust, chips is mandatory.
On the working surface, we put a scale in centimeter increments. This will make it much easier to work with the tree when determining the width of the cut. Many neglect to install a protective shield over the disc, but in vain - treatment from chips getting into the eye or in more serious situations is more expensive.
When working with different materials, it is often necessary to adjust the speed of the circular saw. A self-made design, as a rule, does not have the ability to control the engine speed. There is only one way out - the use of pulleys of various diameters. They are mounted on the motor shaft. If you undertake to order pulleys from a turner, immediately make a solid pulley with two or three different diameters.
Many people want to install a three-phase electric motor on the sawing machine without having 380 V. You will need capacitors rated for a minimum operating voltage of 600 V paper or oil-paper type.
We calculate the capacitance of capacitors based on the power of the electric motor: for 1 kW - 100 μF for a working capacitor Cf. We take the capacity of the starting Cn twice as large. The SB trigger is a button that automatically returns to its original position. The start is simple: SQ is turned on, SB is pressed for a couple of seconds. After starting, the button is released, as soon as the engine picks up speed, you can cut.