Fighting red aphids on peach trunks. How to deal with aphids on a peach with folk remedies. Mechanical treatments

Peach trees can be attacked by garden pests ( aphids, scale insects, moths, weevils, etc.).

Peach pests damage leaves and shoots, slow down development, ruin crops and can lead to plant death. To avoid this, you must:

timely detect the appearance of pests (each pest has "its own" handwriting, by which it can be calculated);
take appropriate action.

Pest control measures include certain agrotechnical actions ( autumn and spring digging, getting rid of fallen leaves, cleaning the bark, pruning shoots, spraying with milk of lime, setting traps, etc.) and chemical treatment of peaches from pests with special preparations ( for each type of pest, it is necessary to select a specific insecticide).

Important! Poisonous chemicals should be sprayed and enveloped in fog - the smallest spray - the whole tree evenly. It is necessary to ensure that the solution falls on both sides of the sheet - the outer and inner, wet the bark (especially cracks).

Weevils and their larvae cause serious harm to the peach tree - gnaw young leaves, buds, damage young buds and flower ovary (gnaw petals, pistils and stamens), carry fungal diseases.

The fight against the weevil includes, first of all, preventive measures (competent preventive actions will ensure reliable protection of the garden). Prevention is as follows:

viewing and checking the branches of garden trees, checking seedlings (especially the root ball of the earth);
competent planning of plots with crops vulnerable to weevils in different parts of the garden;
autumn and spring digging of the ground around the peach, cleaning the old bark;
spring whitewashing with milk of lime (1.5 kg of slaked lime per 10 liters of water) of the lower part of the trunk (during the period of bud swelling);
installation of a fishing belt on the trunk (from the ground to the first branch);
pre-spraying the buds with an aqueous mixture of laundry soap and mustard powder (can be replaced with wood ash);
planting garlic and onion beds around the peach (the pungent smell scares off the weevil).

Did you know? Weevils are black-brown beetles ranging in size from 7 to 12 mm with a long proboscis (because of which the insect is often called an elephant). They reproduce by parthenogenesis (only females live in our region). One female can lay up to 1000 eggs. Weevils overwinter in the soil, come out into the air in April, lay eggs in May (in flower buds).

If pest prevention did not help, and the weevil is still wound up, biological (natural) and chemical (insecticidal) methods are most often used.

Biological method safer for plants and pollinating insects (bees):

If safe methods have not led to the desired result, you need to apply more radical means - spray the buds with insecticides.

The application depends on the drug, but the first time it is necessary to process a week before the flowers open (drugs "Karachar", "Fitoferm", "Iskra M"), a number of drugs can be used three times - before flowering, the last phase of flowering and 10 days after the end of flowering ("Fufanon", "Kemifos", "Novaktion", etc.).

Before use, you should carefully read the instructions. Typical fluid consumption is 2 to 5 liters per tree.

Important! In order to avoid addiction of pests to the insecticide, it is not recommended to use the same one in a row, it is more expedient to use different preparations. If there are many trees, then before the first use you need to test the effect of the agent on one tree.

Ticks (red spider, common, etc.) feed on plant juices and can not only reduce the yield of the peach, but also destroy the tree.

The mite on the peach is practically invisible - its size is up to 1 mm. They live on the inner surface of leaves, fruits, shoots.

A signal of their presence is the appearance of a cobweb between the leaves, on the stems (on cobweb threads, mites can be carried by the wind to other trees).

In hot summer, ticks reproduce especially quickly (from egg to adult - seven days). Ticks do not like rain, coolness and dampness.

Did you know? Ticks are a family of a subclass of Arthropods of the class Arachnids (8 five-membered legs, two pairs of eyes, a head fused with the chest, high adaptability). There are more than 50 thousand varieties of them in the world. Small sizes (from 0.4 to 1 mm) make it difficult to detect the pest in a timely manner.

Regular preventive measures (whitewashing the trunk, trapping belts, destruction of a fallen leaf, etc.) reduce the risk of a peach tick infection, but do not guarantee 100%.

Therefore, it is necessary to systematically inspect the leaves and branches of trees. If signs of ticks appear, take action. In a not neglected case, you can offer effective folk methods of struggle (without heavy chemistry). This spraying:

tobacco solution... The solution is prepared from a kilogram of tobacco dust (sold in garden stores) and 20 liters of water (it is better to dilute at first until uniform in a bucket), add 50 g of laundry soap (for better adhesion). You need to spray twice with a seven-day break;
infusion of chamomile (insist 12 hours a kilogram of chamomile in a bucket of water). You also need to process it twice with a week break.

If the tree has undergone a massive invasion of ticks, then insecticides and acaricides will come to the rescue. Spraying is carried out two times - after the appearance of the ovary and a month before harvesting (this will make it possible to destroy the larvae and adults first, and then hatched from the eggs).

The most effective remedies:

colloidal sulfur (for 10 l - 80 g) - processed during the growing season from 1 to 6 times (each subsequent treatment - every other day);
« Fitoferm»(Per liter - 15 ml) - 2 times during the growing season (the second - after two days);
« Neoron"(For 10 liters - 15 ml) - once 45 days before harvest;
« Karate"(For 10 liters - 5 ml) - 2 times during the growing season (the second - after 20 days).

Moths

Fruit moths pose a serious threat to young shoots and to the harvest (if the fight against these peach pests is delayed, then all fruits may die). Most often, peaches fall prey to the oriental and plum moth.

The harm from the eastern moth is reduced not only to damage to the fruit. Caterpillars devour young shoots, carry fungi (including ascomycete, which causes moniliosis). The first signs of pests are:

gum on young shoots, longitudinal cracks, their lethargy and dying off;
wormholes on the surface of peaches.

Did you know? The eastern moth is a lepidoptera (15 mm long). The female is larger than the male. The wings are gray-brown, the body is dark. The homeland of butterflies is the countries of East Asia. Butterflies fly for a month during peach flowering. More active in the evenings and early in the morning. Eggs (100 to 200) are laid on the tops of shoots, buds (females of the first generation), sepals and peduncles (females of the second generation). One generation lives from 24 to 40 days. During a season, up to 4 generations can pass, overlapping one another. They wait out winter in cracks in the bark, under fallen leaves.

When fighting the eastern moth, agricultural, natural and chemical means are used:

Important! During the flowering period of peach trees, it is strictly forbidden to treat with insecticides. Other crops in the garden should be covered with foil when peaches are treated with insecticides.

The larvae of the plum moth infect the peach fruit: they eat away the flesh and the core of the bone, violate the vessels from the stem (the flow of juices stops), the fruit begins to wither, sing prematurely and falls.

The first sign of the presence of a plum moth is massive fall of green peaches with wormholes, as well as the appearance of lumps of cobwebs on fruits and leaves.

Did you know? The plum moth in appearance resembles the eastern one, it is larger (up to 2 cm). Butterflies fly in late May - early June. The butterfly lives from 4 to 15 days, manages to sow up to 50 eggs per fruit. The caterpillars gnaw through the peach skin on their own and take root in the fruit. During the season, two generations of moths pass through. Caterpillars hibernate in dense cocoons made of cobwebs in the crevices of the bark, in the soil under the tree.

The protection of the peach from these pests by agricultural and natural means is similar to that applied to the eastern moth. With a small number of pests, it is advisable to use the biological product "Bitoxibacillin" against each generation (for 10 liters - 40-80 g).

The use of chemicals has its own specifics:

processing is carried out until the appearance of caterpillars (when lumps of cobweb appear) - "Intavir" (one tablet per 10 liters);
against caterpillars of the second generation - "Fufanon", "Sumition", "Novaktion" (but not less than 30 days before harvest).

Mole

The garden moth and its larvae (especially the miner moth and fruit striped moth) pose a serious threat to the buds, young shoots and leaves of peaches.

The miner moth reduces the viability of the peach, inhibits growth, and reduces the yield of the plant. Signs of moth damage - premature yellowness and shedding of leaves damaged by larvae. On the leaves there are characteristic mine spots (in the form of tunnels, spots, etc.).

The miner moth is about 4 mm in size. The female moth lays up to 90 eggs from the back of the leaves, from which larvae emerge, gnawing mines in the leaf plates (the skin is not damaged). Miners hibernate in damaged bark, under fallen leaves.

In the fight against miner moths, an important role is played by cleaning and destruction of fallen leaves, autumn whitewashing of the trunk, digging, washing off with a stream of water during the summer of butterflies.

Used as a natural insecticide tincture of red pepper (cook for an hour, for 10 parts of water - 5 parts of pepper, then insist for a day). For 10 liters - 125 ml of tincture, add 40 g of laundry soap. Spraying should be carried out twice, at intervals of a week.

The use of these funds does not guarantee complete release from the pest, therefore, chemical preparations are used against mole pests of the peach (for spraying the leaves, applying to the soil, injecting into the trunk).

These are drugs that affect the development of insects ("Dimilin", "Insegar", "Match", etc.) and organophosphate and organic insecticides ("Bi-58 new", "Zolon", "Confidor Maxi", etc.) of double use ...

Caterpillars of the fruit moth are distinguished by their gluttony (one caterpillar is capable of destroying 5-6 shoots), devouring buds, leaves, and eating the bones of young peaches. Caterpillars overwinter, crawling under the bark of a tree, in its folds, crawl out during budding.

The first butterflies appear in June and lay eggs at dusk. Ripening period - two weeks. At the end of August, butterflies of the second generation appear.

Among the methods of pest control, a large place is occupied by agrotechnical ones (pruning of affected branches and shoots, harvesting fallen leaves).

During bud formation, the peach crown can be sprayed with an emulsion with industrial oil 1-20A, "Karbofos" (for 10 l - 30 g) or "Chlorofos" (for 10 l - 20 g). During the laying of eggs, the foliage can be treated with phenoxycarb-based chemicals, and the task of getting rid of moths on a peach will temporarily recede into the background.

Aphid

Aphids are a sucking insect. When aphids are affected, young shoots wither, dry, lose leaves, and the tree begins to ache. Signs of the presence of aphids:

clusters of aphids (buds, bottom of leaves, young shoots);
sticky liquid (pad) covering the leaves;
twisting the tops of the shoots;
the formation of buds and fruits stops;
a large number of ants (they are attracted by the honeydew).

Important! With timely detection of aphids, it is easy to deal with it - remove it by hand, wash it off with soapy water, etc. If time is lost, you will have to use strong pesticides.

For peaches, the green, black and striped peach aphid is a particular threat.

Insects are light green in color, small in size (1.5 mm), form colonies. Especially great harm is done by green aphids to young seedlings: it pierces the leaf with its proboscis and sucks out the juices (the leaves become discolored, curl, fall off, the flowers crumble, the seedlings can dry out).

Damaged shoots freeze in winter, mushrooms settle on the pad, and wood-boring beetles appear on weakened trees.

You need to start destroying aphids with methods that are softer for the peach tree:

agrotechnical: cutting down root growth, weeding or mowing vegetation, stripping the bark, removing aphids manually or with a strong jet of water;
biological: the use of natural enemies of aphids ( ladybugs, wasps, hover flies, etc.). Planting nettles, onions, herbs, etc. In addition, it is effective ( in the early stages) the use of decoctions and infusions of dandelions ( Insist 400 g of leaves for 2 hours in 10 liters of warm water), garlic ( 300 g of chopped garlic in 10 liters of water to insist for 20 minutes), onion peel ( 150 g of husk per 10 l of water, leave for 5 days, add 50 g of laundry soap) and etc.;
chemical: spraying with pesticides. In autumn - Bordeaux liquid (2%), in spring, before or after flowering, - Bordeaux liquid (1%), a mixture of thiazole and fociol, "Dipterex". With the advent of fruits - "Bi-58 New", "Aktofit" ( 8 ml per liter of water), etc. In the spring, you can destroy aphids after winter with the help of DNOC ( every two years).

A striped aphid on a peach sucks juice from the bark and shoots (the bark becomes sticky), the leaves on the upper shoots curl up, turn red and fall off.

So, aphids are a small insect, no more than 3 mm in size. It is worth highlighting that the most widespread aphids are of the following types:

blood;
large peach aphid;
green;
and black.

As a rule, if aphids have settled on a peach tree, then the gardener will see the following:

the bloody appearance of aphids is very clearly visible, since individuals tend to accumulate;
if aphids attack, then dark dots will be visible on the back of the foliage;
peach buds will be covered with secretions from this insect;
the tops of the pagons can begin to dry out and then die off;
spots first appear on the leaves, then they dry and curl;
in the thick of the tree, you can see the so-called fleas of green or grayish color.

If the aphid attacks, then the culture completely stops developing fully, begins to weaken, while the yield decreases several times. Moreover, a diseased tree loses its resistance to frost.

What methods of struggle exist

agrotechnical and mechanical techniques;
fighting with chemicals;
folk recipes.

Each of these methods can give good results. Moreover, experienced gardeners strongly recommend that you first not resort to drugs of chemical origin, but try to overcome the invasion with natural and affordable means.

Method of struggle: agrotechnical

As already described above, before equipping yourself with a heavy arsenal and attacking uninvited guests, you can try several agricultural techniques that successfully help fight a petty enemy, namely:

destroy all weeds growing around the peach;
to excise all root thickets;
clean up the remains of old bark, on trunks and on skeletal branches;
using a stream of water supplied from a hose, remove all aphids placed on the foliage;
plant siderates and herbs around the peach.

As a rule, these agrotechnical methods give a real result. If it was not possible to solve the problem with the help of these methods, then we arm ourselves with mechanical methods and start fighting.

It is worth emphasizing that mechanical methods for destroying aphids can only be used if the tree is relatively small. So, how to destroy aphids, ways:

we knock down aphids with a broom;
we destroy with a brush;
we tear off all the affected foliage and burn it behind the site.

Well, with the onset of autumn, we start digging the area where the peaches are planted. Then, thoroughly sprinkle ash around the trunk circle and pour boiling water on top. These methods have the following properties:

Fighting with chemicals

If the above methods did not help, and precious time is lost, you should resort to heavy artillery in the form of insecticides. First of all, it should be emphasized that such drugs retain their toxic properties for 20 days. Therefore, in the case when the aphid attacked before the harvest itself, it is strictly forbidden to process with these means.

Of course, processing with chemicals is not desirable. But if it happened that the army of the most dangerous insect was noticed too late, then only such means can save your crop.

Well, as for the name of the drugs, today there are many different means, among which the following stand out:

If aphids attack during bud formation, use Confidor.
In the case when aphids appeared during the formation of fruits, the Bi-58 solution will become indispensable. The only thing to keep in mind is that this tool is strictly forbidden to use during the ripening of peaches.
If the aphid of the black variety attacks, then the drug Phosphamide will help the gardener.
Well, for the destruction of overwintered individuals, a remedy called DNOC solution is recommended.

At the same time, always remember one simple rule, it is not recommended to constantly process with the same means.

Folk recipes to help

So, what are the ways to destroy aphids with improvised means:

Onion husk tincture

Then, the tightly sealed mixture is insisted for two days and the peach is sprayed with the finished infusion. This procedure is repeated two days later. But as a rule, after the first spraying, the aphid dies or disappears from the tree.

Laundry soap

Pepper

And the third effective method of fighting aphids is called pepper platter. To do this, take a pack of red and black ground pepper and a pack of dry mustard. All mix well, just do not forget to put on a mask and glasses in advance. Pour the finished powder with a bucket of water and stir everything well.

Then, the resulting solution is sprayed onto the wood. From such a remedy, aphids will begin to die almost instantly.

The best remedy is prevention

In order not to look for options to combat this insect, regularly carry out preventive treatments in the front garden. To do this, use the following treatment schedule:

after all the foliage has fallen off, the peach culture is treated with Bordeaux liquid strictly according to the instructions;
before flowering, peach crops will need treatment with tizol;
after flowering, spray the tree with Bordeaux mixture.

It is worth noting that most gardeners are advised to keep such a drug as Aktofita in a green medicine cabinet. It is mainly used together with laundry soap as an emergency aid for aphid attacks.

Conclusion

And one more piece of advice from experienced gardeners: in order for the fight against aphids to be effective, before choosing a particular remedy, assess the damage caused by these insects. In this case, you can choose the right product and minimize losses.

The most common pest on peach is the aphid, especially the large peach, black and green. There are various methods in the fight against aphids on peaches in horticulture.

In the article, we will consider agricultural, mechanical, chemical and biological methods of how to deal with aphids on a peach.

an accumulation of black, green or brown aphids are clearly visible on young shoots, plant buds, and especially on the lower part of the leaves;
leaves and buds are covered with honeydew, a sticky liquid secreted by aphids;
the tops of the shoots and infected leaves curl down, do not develop and dry out, the buds do not open, and the fruits do not develop;
gray-green fleas appear inside the curled leaves.

Harm done

Green aphids on a peach are harmful to young seedlings. Since their activity causes discoloration, wrinkling and erratic curling of the leaves at the top, the flowers fall off and dry out.

The large peach aphid sucks the juice from the bark and branches, with a strong infection with it, the bark will be wet and sticky, the upper leaves will wrap tightly and turn red, and may even fall off prematurely.

The black peach aphid populates the crown of trees in spring, and in early summer it can fly to other crops, especially legumes. Since the colony of black aphids on a peach consists of female individuals, they multiply very quickly, which, in addition to the above mentioned harm, can lead to the appearance of a black sooty fungus on the tree.

Agrotechnical and mechanical control methods

Before treating a peach from aphids with various chemical agents, you must use such simple agrotechnical and mechanical methods:

weed out or mow unwanted vegetation, especially perennial weeds;
remove root growth;
to clean the lagging bark on boles and skeletal branches;
remove aphids on peach leaves by hand or rinse with a strong stream of water from a hose;
invite natural enemies of aphids into the garden: ladybug, hoverfly, lacewing, wasps and small birds, planting fragrant spicy herbs, nettles and siderata.

Chemical methods for controlling aphids on peach

These methods consist in the selection of effective pesticides, which can be used to spray a peach from aphids:

Before winter - 2% solution.
Before and after flowering - a solution of your choice: 1% Bordeaux liquid, 0.8% thiosol 80 together with 0.12% fostyol H40, 0.15% Vofatox 30, 0.15% Dipterex, 0.1% sevinoma 85. Repeat in two weeks.
During bud formation - Confidor 0.25 l / ha.
At the first appearance, but not when the fruits ripen - with 0.2% solutions of Bi-58 or Dursban.
For regular control - 8 ml of Aktofit is diluted in a liter of water and 0.02% of liquid soap is added, re-processing is possible no earlier than 15-20 days, it is better to carry out before the leaves begin to roll.
Against black aphids - 0.1% solution of thiophos or phosphamide, as well as nicotine sulfate and 0.2% solution of anabazine with laundry soap or lime.
To destroy overwintered aphids, before budding, - 0.5% DNOC solution, can be done once every two years.

Biological methods for controlling aphids on peach

There are less dangerous means than you can poison aphids on a peach - these are biological. Decoctions and infusions of tomatoes, dandelion, bitter capsicum, garlic and onion husks are effective in the fight against aphids.

Of course, in order to get a more useful harvest, it is better to prevent the appearance of aphids on the leaves of the peach, using such preventive measures as applying ash and mineral fertilizers under the tree, which will increase the resistance to peach aphids.

Video: Aphids ??? YOU WILL NOT HAVE IT ANYMORE !!!

Video: Ants and aphids How to deal 2 Ants and aphids How to deal 2

Peach is not so often found in country gardens, as the same apple or pear, since this fruit crop is very capricious in its care and requires increased attention. In order for the tree to bear fruit regularly, it is necessary to properly care for it, including it is imperative to carry out the spring processing of the peach in the spring against all kinds of diseases (especially against curly leaves) and pests.

Why spring peach processing is needed: main diseases and pests

So that in the spring the peach can recover faster after winter and enter the growing season in a timely manner, you need to provide it with maximum care and attention from the first days.

The beginning of spring is a period of awakening not only of plants, but also of the worst enemies of culture: wintering larvae of pests and fungal spores. But before taking proper care and processing the peach in the spring, you need to get to know the enemy (all diseases and pests of culture) "by sight".

Diseases

Spring peach treatment is carried out against the following fungal diseases:

- the most dangerous disease of this culture.

Infection occurs during the period of swelling of the kidneys.

First, it affects young, freshly blossoming leaves, on which amber or red-pink tuberous spots appear (their surface becomes uneven and wavy). And after a couple of weeks, a white waxy bloom forms on the underside of the leaf - this is the fruiting of the mushroom. In the future, such leaves turn brown and fall off.

The exposure of the affected shoots begins, as a rule, from below. From this they take on the appearance of a brush, thicken, bend, acquire a yellowish tint. After that, starting from the top, part of the shoots exposed as a result of leaf fall dries up, the rest die during the first frost.

Fruits developing on two-year-old shoots affected by curl fall off.

Video: peach treatment for leaf curl

Clasterosporium disease (perforated spot).

Moniliosis (fruit rot) and monilial burn.

Note! The site already has material .

Powdery mildew Is one of the most common problems (along with moniliosis \u003d fruit rot) of all stone fruit crops. It affects foliage, shoots and fruits, manifesting itself as an off-white (yellow) bloom.

It is rare enough that peach trees pick up scab.

Pests

The most first treatment of peaches from pests is carried out against the following wintering stages of insect pests:

scabbards;
worm;
ticks;
suckers and other sucking and leaf-eating pests.

Second and subsequent peach treatments are already carried out against such pests as:

Flower beetles - infect buds, buds and flowers. In addition, they are carriers of many fungal diseases.

Aphid - affects young foliage and shoots, feeding on their juice. It multiplies rapidly and forms numerous colonies. In the absence of protective procedures, it can cause serious harm to the culture and significantly slow down its development.

As a rule, peaches can be found blood aphid.

Mite. Requires special treatment with acaricides. With a large number, it can greatly weaken the immunity of the plant.

Miner moth.

Eastern moth.

The main stages and terms of processing peach from diseases and pests: when to spray

It is very important not to be late and to carry out the first early spring peach processing on time.However, do not rush too much. If there is still snow outside the window or the weather is unstable: there is often precipitation - rains, sleet, fog, then spraying at this time will be simply ineffective.

Thus, when stable warm (+ 4..5 degrees during the day and not lower than 0 at night) and dry weather is established, the first treatment can be performed.

Note! If you did not have time to do it back in the fall (and you should have), then late winter - early spring (February-early March) highly desirable to implement whitewash of trunks and low skeletal peach branches... This treatment will protect your fruit trees from sunlight (ultraviolet) rays and sudden temperature changes in the winter-spring period, which will prevent the appearance of cracks on them, into which various infections (fungal spores) and pests can no longer get.

By the way! About, how and how to whiten fruit trees (including peaches) in autumn and spring,read.

It is quite obvious that different diseases and pests appear at different times. Accordingly, for each phase of peach development, there should be its own specifics of its processing. At the same time, it is very difficult to name specific dates, it is much easier and more correct to focus on the phases of development (vegetation) of the peach tree in spring.

So, there is a certain scheme for processing the garden in the spring, according to which spraying is carried out in the following stages of development (vegetation) of the peach:

It is necessary to process peaches in the spring from diseases and pests at least 4 times, which guarantees the protection of the crop and obtaining an excellent harvest.

Before awakening or budding, while they are still asleep.

This treatment is also called "early spring spraying", and more often spraying "on a bare tree", because at this time, no signs of awakening (vegetation) have yet appeared on the peach.

By the way! Instead of processing on dormant buds, some gardeners spray on those that have already begun to swell (wake up)

"Along the green cone." When the buds have already swollen and burst, but the leaves have not yet appeared (unfolded).
"By rosebuds". Also called the stage of "bud extension or separation."

Interesting! Sometimes the treatment is carried out directly during flowering, but exclusively against diseases.

"On the ovary with a pea." In other words, after flowering, when small ovaries are already formed.
In the future (already in the summer), in the stage of growth and formation of fruits, it is also necessary to carry out preventive and therapeutic treatments (if you do not want to use chemicals, then at least spray with biological preparations).

In the fall (after leaf fall), it is necessary to carry out an autumn eradicating spraying (with copper or iron vitriol, Bordeaux liquid).

Video: spraying scheme for peaches and other fruit trees in spring

Important! If it seems to you that it is unrealistic to carry out such a number of treatments, then this is not at all the case, even if you are at the cottage only on weekends (1-2 days a week). Each stage does not last one day, but about a week or more. In addition, you can track all stages on city trees.

Before bud awakening or early spring spraying "on bare trees"

For the first time, it is necessary to process a peach in the spring against diseases and pests. before bud breakwhen they are still dormant.

Spray the peach in the spring, before the buds awaken (bloom), you should only at positive air temperature not less than +4 .. + 5 degrees.

The first spraying is often called "Eradicating" since this treatment allows you to get rid of most of the wintering stages of insect pests, as well as from the spores of some fungal diseases.

Moreover, it is important to spray not only the peach trees themselves (trunks and branches), but also the soil at their base., since many pests and pathogens are also concentrated there, which, when higher temperatures are set, will begin to attack young leaves and shoots.

As a rule, during this period they apply the simplest contact means.For example, to choose from: Bordeaux liquid, copper or iron vitriol mixed with urea.

And you can use special preparation against wintering stages of pests - "Prophylactin" or "Drug 30 Plus".

Video: spring spraying and Bordeaux liquid

Spraying in the "green cone" stage

The second treatment of peaches in the spring for diseases and pests should be carried out during the period of swelling and budding, in other words, in the "green cone" stage.

This phase is characterized by the fact that the buds on the trees have already burst, but the leaves have not yet unfolded, although they are already clearly visible (hence the "green cone").

Note! Spraying in the "green cone" phase is considered the most important and most favorable period for the treatment of peaches from diseases and pests.

Important!If for some reason you did not carry out the processing at the previous stage, then it is better hurry up, insofar as the duration of this phase ("green cone") is relatively short... Moreover, if the weather is good, sunny, the temperature is stable above +10 degrees, then the kidneys will open quite quickly.

At this stage, as a rule, are already using more serious means:

against klyasterosporiosis - Horus or Skor (or its full analogue Raek);

Important! Chorus must be used at temperatures up to +15 degrees, Speed \u200b\u200b(Raek) - above +15.

curl leaves - Horus or Speed.

You can also use contact fungicidal preparations against copper based

Specificity! For instance, Horus works great at low positive temperatures (about +4 .. + 5, but up to +15), and Speed \u200b\u200bor Rayokon the contrary, it works better at higher temperatures (from +10 .. + 15)... Therefore, at the stages before the buds protrude and flowering (in the "green cone" phase), it is advisable to spray with Horus, and Skor - already at the "pink bud" stage and after flowering ("pea-sized ovaries").

It's time to start fighting with flower beetles (weevils), for example, Aktara.

But, if you skipped the previous processingthen in the "green cone" stage it is still possible to spray the peach Bordeaux liquid or one of the solutions based on copper or ferrous sulfate with urea (see details in the paragraph "Tank mixtures"). And also apply against wintering stages of pests special preparation - "Prophylactin" and "Preparation 30 Plus".

By the way! Copper vitriol and Bordeaux liquid, which also contains copper, perfectly protect against curly leaves.

At the same stage for additional protection of peaches from insect pests You can put on boles special trees trapping belts, build and hang on branches glue traps, pheromone houses.

Video: the second spring spraying of the garden

Spraying in the bud extension stage or in the "rose bud" phase

The third stage of processing peaches in the spring against diseases and pests is carried out at the stage when the bud has already formed and advanced (it is pink), but has not yet opened.

Interesting! At this time, its activity begins (to lay eggs) moth.

At this stage, spraying must be carried out against the following diseases:

curly leaves - Horus, Skor, Delan;
monilial burn - Horus;
powdery mildew - Topaz.

Also against clotterosporia and curliness copper based, for example, Abiga-peak, Hom, Polyhom.

With regard to treatments against pests, then

vs flower beetle - Aktara, Karate Zeon;
aphids, suckers - Aktara;
ticks - Karate Zeon;
leaf rollers - Insegar, Voliam Flexi;

You can use any similar means aimed at the listed pests, the above is just an example.

Temperature conditions during the rosebud stage tend to improve, weather it is warm and sunny (temperature + 10-15 degrees and above), which means you can start using biological drugs (see separate paragraph "Biologicals").

Video: peach processing in the rosebud phase

Spraying after flowering "on the ovary with a pea"

Immediately after flowering, when small ovaries are already formed, it is necessary to produce complex processing of peaches as against diseases(especially against moniliosis) and against pests (especially from the moth).

Spraying must be carried out with similar preparations:

against klyasterosporiosis - Horus, Skor;
curl leaves - Horus, Speed;
monilial burn - Horus;
powdery mildew - Topaz;
moniliosis (fruit rot) - Horus.

Also against clotterosporia and curliness fungicidal preparations can be used copper based, for example, Abiga-peak, Hom, Polyhom.

With regard to treatments against pests, then

against aphids, copperheads - Aktar, Voliam Flexi;
ticks - Karate Zeon, Vertimek;
leaf rollers - Insegar, Voliam Flexi, Lufoks, Proclame;
miner moth - Insegar, Proclaim.
moths - Insegar, Lufoks, Voliam Flexi, Proclaim, Match.

Advice! If some leaves do pick up curliness, they will need to be removed manually.

How to properly spray a peach in spring

While preparing solutions and spraying trees observe safety precautions... If the packaging of the product says that you need to wear special clothing (dressing gown, overalls, raincoat), goggles and a respirator, rubber gloves, then you need to wear it.

Processing should only be carried out in dry and calm weather.

In sunny weather, it is better to refrain from spraying, since, quickly drying, the drugs become ineffective or do not work at all. Spraying is best done in cloudy, calm weather, but not in the rain: after the rain, the branches are damp, like a thin "film" of water on them. And spraying is droplets of solution, which also cover the plant with a thin "film" of drops. If processing is carried out, then the concentration of the solution will decrease, and the processing efficiency will decrease.

Spraying is desirable to carry out in the morning (after dew has dried) or late at night (after sunset).

Too early processing will be ineffective due to dew not evaporated and high humidity.

Processing is always carried out exactly after, in order to additionally protect the cut sites (ideally if you sprinkle them with copper sulfate or Bordeaux liquid, in other words, if there is copper in the fungicide).

By the way! Some gardeners believe that pruning correctly is the easiest and most economical remedy. So, at the end of the first pruning, before bud break, you need to cut off all annual branches by 2-3 buds from the top. Most of all fungal spores winter in them. This is the most unripe and painful part of the plant. From here comes the infection of the healthy parts of the peach. Sometimes this procedure is enough to prevent curliness from appearing.

It does not follow spray against pests during flowering (can harm bees and other pollinators), only from diseases.
All prepared solutions should be pass through a filter meshso as not to clog the sprayer.
Suitable for dissolving almost all drugs room temperature water (for vitriol, it is advisable to use hot water, about + 40-50 degrees).

And if you are using a biological productthen water better to take settled or filtered, i.e. chlorine free.

At each stage, you can use like the same drugs (for the sake of economy) and new (better change the active ingredient so that there is no addiction - it will be more effective), or alternate (use alternately).

During each phase, you can carry out not 1, but 2 or more treatments, if it is indicated in the instructions for the preparation, especially after flowering.

You can prepare tank mixtures that will have insecticidal and fungicidal properties (in this case, it is necessary to clarify the compatibility of drugs).

But! Some agronomists believe that do not immediately give a double chemical load on the plant... It is better to take a break for at least 1 day (for example, treat it with a fungicide on Saturday morning, and an insecticide on Sunday morning). You can also spray at intervals of 1 week, i.e. one weekend they were treated for pests, the next - for diseases (or vice versa).

The specifics of processing adult (old) and young trees

Naturally, adult fruiting peaches need to be fully processed in the spring, i.e. in 4 stages.

It's another matter, until the tree blooms and bears fruit, it is obvious that insects stick to it less. Therefore, it will be enough to process young peach trees only 3 times:

on sleeping buds from diseases and hibernating pests;
"Along the green cone" from insect pests;
after flowering, when pea-sized ovaries are formed, from diseases (especially against monilial burn).

Note! Peach is one of the fastest growing fruit crops, which starts fruit already in the 3rd year after planting.

How to process peaches in the spring from pests and diseases: the best drugs

For the spring processing of the garden, there are a large number of means, but what exactly to process the peach in the spring from diseases and pests, before starting the procedure, you need to decide in advance. As well as how to use drugs, how much to use them. Let us examine this issue in more detail below.

Note! At each stage, you can use both the same drugs (in order to save money) and new ones (and it is better to change the active substance so that there is no addiction - it will be more effective), or alternate (use alternately).

Important!The instructions for each drug always indicate when (in what time frame) and how many times they need processing.

So, for effective spring processing of peaches, you will need:

fungicides (drugs to fight diseases);

By the way! In this case, fungicides are divided into preparations protective (prophylactic) and curative action, as well as protective-healing.

Of course, it is optimal to use complex drugs that have protective and therapeutic effects.

Accordingly, if you noticed signs of illness, then no preventive (protective) means will help you, only healing (or protective-healing).

insecticides (insect pest control agents);
insectofungicides (complex preparations acting simultaneously against pests and diseases).

By origin, these agents (fungicides and insecticides) can be:

chemical (those same "chemicals");
biological (biological products).

Of course, there are also folk remedies, for example, various herbal-based solutions and infusions, etc. But their effectiveness is very, very limited.

Chemicals and biologicals

Note! Many gardeners have a preconceived notion that the use of chemicals has a negative impact (has negative consequences) on the quality of the future harvest and human health. However, this does not correspond to reality, since after the expiration of the waiting period, all harmful substances (pesticides) are removed long before ripening and harvesting.

In contrast to biological products, chemical agents act much faster and more reliably. In addition, the use of chemicals is very often the only way to cure a crop of fungal diseases and get rid of annoying pests.

TO of course, in this case, it is imperative to fully comply with the recommendations for their dosage and the timing of the spraying.

Whereas biological drugs and folk remedies have a more gentle effect, which is permissible only in the following cases:

with a small number of pests;
at the initial stage of development of a fungal disease or mild infection, and even better as a prophylaxis (protection), but in no way an active fight.

Fungicides (chemical)

As for the preparations suitable for spring spraying of peaches against diseases, the following can be used fungicides (chemical agents for combating fungal plant diseases):

Important! For one treatment, you need to choose only one drug (fungicide), and then use a new one (preferably with another active substance), or alternate.

Bordeaux mixture ( contact fungicide, 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid - before bud break and 1% - at the stage of "rose bud" - from clasterosporium, curly and moniliosis);

Copper sulfate ( contact fungicide, from clasterosporium, curl and moniliosis);

Inkstone;

About that, described in detail.

Carbamide (urea);

Usually,

Abiga peak ( protective contact fungicide based copper oxychloride,

Hom ( contact fungicide protective actions based on copper oxychlorideagainst clasterosporium disease, moniliosis and curliness);
Oxyhom ( contact systemic fungicideprotective actions based on copper oxychloride and oxadixyl, against clasterosporium disease, moniliosis and curliness);

Inkstone;

Advice! About, when, how and why to use iron vitriol, detailed.

Carbamide (urea);

Usually, urea is used together with copper or iron sulfate, namely, the tank mixture is being prepared.

Tiovit Jet ( contact fungicide based sulfur, especially effective against powdery mildew and mites);
Delan ( contact fungicide, protective and curative actions based on dithianon, against curly leaves, clotterosporia, scab);

Forecast ( systemic fungicide protective and healing actions based on propiconazole

Tilt ( systemic fungicide protective and healing actions based on propiconazole, against curly leaves, powdery mildew);
Topsin-M ( systemic contact protective fungicide actions based on Thiophanate methyl, against scab, powdery mildew, moniliosis of fruit rot and monilial burn, clasterosporium);

Chorus (based on cyprodinil, against moniliosis - fruit rot and monilial burn, clasterosporium disease, curly leaves);

Speed \u200b\u200b( systemic fungicide of protective and curative action based difenoconazole, against klyasternosporiosis and curly leaves, as well as scab);

Raek ( systemic fungicide of protective and curative action based difenoconazole,against klyasternosporia and curly leaves, as well as scab);

In fact, Skor \u003d Rayok (its analogue).

Advice! Carefully study the instructions: the scope of the drug (against what diseases), timing, dosage!

Insecticides (chemical)

With regard to preparations suitable for spraying peaches in the spring against pests, the following insecticides (pest control agents) can be used:

Important!For one treatment, you need to choose only one drug (insecticide), and then use a new one (preferably with another active substance) or alternate.

The active ingredients are indicated in brackets.

Aktara ( Thiamethoxam (Aktara),systemic insecticide of intestinal action, against flower beetle, honeydew, aphids);

Actellic ( Pyrimifos-methyl (Actellic), systemic insecticide of contact-intestinal action against ticks?);
Prophylactin ( Vaseline oil and Malathion (Karbofos), enteric insecticide against wintering stages of pests - ticks, aphids, scale insects, leafworms, honeycorns and others; ideal for swelling buds in early spring).

Preparation 30 plus (contact insect-acaricide from the wintering stages of pests - scale insects, pseudo-scale insects, ticks, aphids, saplings, moths, worms; spray during dormancy).

Fufanon ( Malathion (Karbofos),

Aliot ( Malathion (Karbofos), enteric-contact insectoacaricide from moth, honey moth, leafworm, aphids, ticks);

Fufanon and Aliot are complete analogues!

Decis Profi ( Deltamethrin,enteric insecticide, against flower beetle, moth, leafworm and aphids);

Hyphen Expert ( Deltamethrin, intestinal insecticide, against the flower beetle, moth, leafworm and aphids);
Karate Zeon ( Lambda Cyhalothrin,enteric insecticide, against the flower beetle, moth, leafworm, ticks, aphids);

Kinmix ( Beta-cypermethrin, enteric insecticide from moth, leafworm, flower beetle, aphid, honeydew);

Biotlin (Imidacloprid, a systemic insecticide of contact-intestinal action, against aphids; spray before flowering);
Engio ( Thiamethoxam ilambda-cyhalothrin, against moth, aphids, ticks);
Caesar ( Alpha cypermethrin, insecticide of contact-intestinal action, against moth, aphids);
Movento Energy ( Imidacloprid pyrotetramate, a systemic insecticide of contact-intestinal action, against the moth, leafworm, scabbard, honeydew, aphids);
Belt ( Flubendiamide, systemic insecticide of contact-intestinal action, against moth, leafworm, miner moth);
Calypso ( Tiacloprid, systemic insecticide of contact-intestinal action, against moth, leafworm, scale insect, flower beetle);
Brand ( Emamectin benzoate,insecticide of intestinal action from the moth and grape moth);
Vertimek ( Abamectin, enteric insecticide against ticks, copperheads);
Lufox ( Lufenuron and Fenoxycarb
Match ( Lufenuron, insecticide of intestinal action from the moth)
Insegar ( Fenoxycarb, insecticide of intestinal action from the moth and grape moth);
Voliam Flexy ( Thiaetoxam (Aktara) and chlorantraniliprol, a systemic insecticide of intestinal action against the moth, mining moth, grape moth, aphids, thrips and leafhoppers);
And other broad spectrum insecticides.

Advice! Carefully study the instructions: the scope of the drug (against which pests), timing, dosage.

Video: how to spray trees in the spring from insect pests

Biological products of fungicidal and insecticidal action

Biological products are created on the basis of living organisms:

mushroom antagonists;

bacteria;
bacterial viruses;

beneficial insects (entomophages and acariphages).

Among biological products, fungicides, insecticides, and insectofungicides can be distinguished.

Note! As a rule, almost all biological products work effectively under the condition of a sufficiently high positive air temperature (+ 10 ... + 15 degrees), so they begin to be used only at the “rosebud” stage, while the first and second treatments must be carried out using chemicals.

Biologicals fungicidal action (against diseases):

Fitolavin (fungicide, from moniliosis \u003d fruit rot);

Alirin-B (systemic contact fungicide of protective and curative action, against powdery mildew, moniliosis);
Fitosporin (contact fungicide, from powdery mildew, moniliosis, curly leaves);

Planriz (contact fungicide, from moniliosis, leaf spots, including curl);

Trichodermin or Trichoderma (fungicide, from moniliosis, leaf spots, including curl);

Biologicals insecticidal action (against pests):

Aktofit (insecticide, from moth, flower beetle, ticks, aphids, thrips);

Interesting! Aktofit is created on the basis of biological toxins.

Bitoxibacillin (from moth, leafworm, moth);

Lepidocide (from moth, moth);

Fitoverm ( Aversectin C,from moths, leaf rollers, ticks);
Kleschevit ( Aversectin C,from moths, mites; ideally spray after flowering);
Gaupsin (complex action insectofungicide, from moniliosis, leaf spots, including curliness, scab, powdery mildew, moth, aphids, leafworms and other pests).

Note! Yes, biologicals have their advantages (they are environmentally friendly, have a short waiting time), but it should be admitted that they are not as effective as chemical ones.

Tank mixtures (fungicides + insecticides)

Note! Not all drugs can be mixed. For example, practically nothing can be mixed with Bordeaux liquid (it has an alkaline reaction).

The instructions should say what drugs they can be combined with.

For spring spraying of peach (except for the first one, when the buds are still sleeping), you can prepare the following tank mixtures (fungicide + insecticide):

Chemical:

Horus (fungicide) + Decis Profi (insecticide);

At higher temperatures (+10 .. + 15 degrees) Chorus is better to replace with Speed (fungicide) + Decis Profi.

In principle, you can replace Hyphen Profi with Aktara (insecticide): Aktara + Horus and Aktara + Speed.

Engio - also works great when paired with Horus or Skor.

Speed \u200b\u200b+ Topaz;
Horus (or Skor) + Aktara + Karate Zeon;
Bayleton (fungicide) + Karate (insecticide);
Tilt (fungicide) + Caesar (insecticide);
Skor (or Horus) + Caesar (insecticide).

By the way! It is believed that the Spor + Horus tank mix will protect the peach by 99% from all major diseases.

Biological:

Lepidocide + Bitoxibacillin + Gaupsin (insectofungicide)

Against curly leaves and other diseases:

Planriz (fungicide) + Trichodermin (fungicide) + Pentafag-C (fungicide);
Planriz (fungicide) + Trichodermin (fungicide) + Gaupsin (insectofungicide).
Planriz (fungicide) + Pentafag-C (fungicide) + Gaupsin (insectofungicide).

Eradicating spraying against diseases and pests

As an option, at the "green cone" stage or even earlier (when the kidneys are completely dormant) You can prepare the following solutions (tank mix) for carrying out the spring eradication spraying of peach against diseases and pests.

Let's be honest! Complete eradication of pests will not occur, but those of them that hibernate on the bark or in cracks (for example, the same scabbard) will be significantly affected by the solution.

Therefore, for the complete destruction of pests in the future, it is necessary to use other more serious and modern drugs.

It is advisable to do the processing exactly according to the "green cone", it is possible even earlier (when the kidneys are completely sleeping), but not later.

But! If the leaves have already unfold, then the processing can still be carried out, but with certain restrictions. So, the concentration of solutions should be reduced by 2 times, i.e. either dilute with water 2 times, or reduce by 2 times the amount of used products.

Copper sulfate solution recipe

Take 300 grams of copper sulphate and first dissolve in 1-1.5 liters of hot water (40-50 degrees).

Note! Copper sulphate is not friendly with iron (iron objects), therefore, to prepare the solution (stir it), use wooden and plastic sticks, as well as buckets (the same glass jars are suitable).

Then pour the resulting concentrated solution into the sprayer, which already has 8.5-9 liters of water.
Next, fill in a full 1 liter can of urea (urea). If it seems to you that this is too much concentration, then you can reduce the amount of urea to 500-700 grams.

Interesting! Urea treatment according to the "green cone" not only has a positive effect on the number of pests, but also delays flowering for 7-10 days. It is especially important that return frosts have time to pass before flowering.

Add 200-250 ml of liquid soap or dishwashing detergent.

Important! Household and any other solid soap is incompatible with a solution of both iron and copper sulfate (copper and iron simply precipitate). Therefore, it is necessary to use liquid soap, for example, any dishwashing detergent is suitable.

To enhance the effect of copper sulfate, 30-50 ml of 10% ammonia (ammonia) should be added to the solution.
Carry out eradication spraying on trunks and branches.

Iron sulfate solution recipe

First, dissolve 20-30 grams of citric acid in 1-1.5 liters of hot water.

By the way! Iron sulfate, when dissolved in water, oxidizes rather quickly (2-valent iron becomes 3-valent). To prevent this from happening, some complexing agent must be added to the solution (so to speak, to chelate iron vitriol), for example, the same citric acid.

Next, add 500 grams of ferrous sulfate to the resulting citric acid solution.

Note! For peach, which belongs to stone fruit crops (like apricot, plum, cherry plum, cherry, sweet cherry), it is recommended to prepare a 3% solution, that is, you need 300 grams of ferrous sulfate.

But for processing pome crops (apple, pear, quince, chokeberry, mountain ash, grapes), it is recommended to prepare a 4-5% solution, that is, you need to add 400-500 grams of ferrous sulfate.

For the destruction of mosses and lichens on trees and garden tiles, as well as for treating a basement or cellar from mold, a 5-6% solution is prepared, i.e. 500-600 grams of ferrous sulfate

Then you need to pour the resulting solution into the sprayer, which already has 8.5-9 liters of water.
Further, everything is similar to the previous recipe: add a full 1-liter can of urea (carbamide) to the solution. If it seems to you that this is too much concentration, then you can reduce the amount of urea to 500-700 grams.
Add 200-250 ml of liquid soap or dishwashing detergent.
Optionally, you can also take humates (according to the instructions).
Mix everything thoroughly and shake up.
Carry out the eradicating treatment of trunks and branches, as well as mosses in the garden (on the lawn), stones, foundations.

Video: eradicating the treatment of the garden in the spring from pests and diseases

Folk remedies against pests

As preventive measures to protect the peach from pests, you can use folk remedies. They are completely safe and environmentally friendly both for the garden and for humans.

Infusion of tobacco. To prepare the infusion, you need to: pour 0.5 kg of dried tobacco with 10 liters of water and insist for 2 days. Then boil for an hour, let stand again for 1 day. Then add 1 liter of infusion, 40 grams of soap to 10 liters of water and spray.

By the way! Alternatively, you can use tobacco dust.

Infusion of chamomile officinalis. The mixture helps scare off many pests... To prepare a working solution, you need to pour 0.5 kg of dry collection of the plant with 5 liters of boiling water, leave to infuse for at least 12 hours. Grate 40 g of laundry soap into the resulting mixture and add water to 10 liters. Strain and apply to spray the trunk and crown.

Hot pepper decoction. Recommended to use against pests... Pour dried pepper pods (100 g) with boiling water (1 l) and cook for 2 hours. Insist for two hours, then clean and add water to a total volume of 10 liters. Use for spraying shoots and leaves.

And let your peaches be like that!

Full-fledged peach care in spring cannot be imagined without pest and disease control, since the harvest can be obtained only if the tree is processed in a timely and high-quality manner. And what exactly to spray your peach trees is your personal choice, just do not ignore the dosage and timing of spraying. And remember, peach processing in spring is the most important crop protection measure that will allow you to reap a rich harvest of tasty and healthy fruits.

Video: curly peach leaves, how to treat quickly and effectively

In contact with

This pest is also found on apricots, almonds, plums, cherry plums, thorns, cherries, cherries, quince, apple trees, but prefers peaches.

Aphid colonies are located on boles and on the underside of skeletal branches.

They suck the juice from the bark, as a result, the growth and fruiting of fruit trees are inhibited, and the yield is reduced.

The development cycle of the pest is monoecious. The larvae hatch from overwintered eggs in April, at the beginning of the flowering of the host plant. Over time, they transform into viviparous founding females, which give birth to several generations of aphids that reproduce parthenogenetically.

The high population density is established in July-August.

Aphids stick around the stems and the lower part of the branches. With strong colonization, individuals secrete sticky substances, from which the bark becomes wet.

Abundant excrement flows down to the ground, covering it with dark spots in the projection of the tree crown.

In June, in the colonies of aphids, along with wingless virgins, winged settler females appear, inhabiting healthy trees.

Wingless individuals reach a length of 3.5-5 mm, they have a pear-shaped body, dull gray or brown, the head and spots on the back are black, the legs are orange-yellow.

In winged individuals, the body length is 3.5-4.5 mm, the head and thorax are black, the abdomen is brownish or gray-brown, the fore wings are brownish. Flying from tree to tree, winged females give birth to larvae of new colonies.

During the growing season in the south, it develops up to ten generations. The entire development cycle takes place on one culture and ends with the formation of an amphigonic (oviparous) generation.

In September-November, amphigon females develop in colonies. Males rarely appear and females lay unfertilized eggs, placing them on the bark.

After laying the eggs, the females die. Freshly laid eggs are large, red, and after a few days they become black and shiny.

How to deal with peach aphids?

For the successful protection of trees colonized by the great peach aphid, it is necessary to eliminate the wintering pests.

Before bud break, the trees are sprayed with the ZOV preparation, 76% EC. (consumption rate - 0.6 liters per 20 liters of water).

After flowering of fruit trees, one of the pyrethroid insecticides is used against hatching larvae - arrivo, 25% ae, blyskavka, 10% ae, decis profi, 25% vg, karate zeon, 050 microns. with., or preparations of the neonicotinoid group - confidor, 20% w.c., confidor maxi, 70% w.g., calypso, 480 c.s., mospilan, r.p.

The intervals between treatments with pyrethroid drugs are 14 days, and with neonicotinoids - 21 days.

Our advice:

When protecting fruit trees with chemicals, pay attention to the time of the last treatment before harvest, which is indicated on the package.

In small garden plots, natural phytoncidal plants with insecticidal properties can be used to protect trees from aphids.

Tobacco dust has an aphidocidal effect (0.15-0.2 kg of tobacco or tobacco dust is poured into 10 liters of hot water and infused for 2 days, 40 g of laundry soap is added before spraying).

Treatment of trees with a biological product Aktofit, 0.2% ae, 40-60 ml per 10 liters of water is effective against aphids.

Our advice:

Elderberry leaves and inflorescences are fatal for aphids (0.8-1 kg of elderberry leaves and flowers are poured with 10 liters of water, insisted for 3 days, 40 g of soap is added and sprayed).

"Chamomile" method of protection against peach aphids

For the same purpose, medicinal chamomile, Caucasian or Dalmatian is used. Raw materials are prepared during the flowering period.

Leaves and flowers are collected from chamomile, 1 kg of the mass is poured into 10 liters of water heated to 60-70 ° C, insisted for 12 hours. 10 liters of water are added to the freshly prepared solution.

The entire plant is taken from the Dalmatian chamomile, only the inflorescence from the Caucasian chamomile. Crushed raw materials (200 g) are poured into 5 liters of water, insisted for 12 hours

The infusion is drained, and the raw material is again poured with 5 liters of water and again infused for 12 hours. After straining, the solutions are mixed and immediately used.

The intervals between treatments with tinctures or decoctions from plant materials are shorter than when processing with chemical preparations.

Our advice:

Spraying with phytoncides on a natural basis is repeated after 5-7 days, trying to apply the working solution both to the upper and lower sides of the branches and boles.

We use laundry soap!

In the conditions of home gardening, other environmentally friendly protective equipment is also used against aphids.

Laundry soap is ground on a grater and dissolved in soft water (rain, river, pond). 200-300 g of soap is consumed per 10 liters of water.

Soda solution against aphids

Aphids are destroyed by washing the shoots and stems inhabited by it with a 0.5% solution of soda ash with the addition of 0.5% soap (50 g of each product per 10 liters of water).