External wall cladding is one of the final stages in the construction of a frame house. And here the choice of material is of great importance: the microclimate in the premises, the mechanical strength of the walls, the reliability of protection from moisture and cold depend on it. In addition, cladding serves as the basis for finishing materials, and in some cases acts as a topcoat and is responsible for the aesthetic appearance of the building.
Sheathing gives the structure of the structure a certain rigidity and takes on part of the load. This means that one of the main criteria is the mechanical strength of the material in bending and compression, the absence of shrinkage during operation. Walls should retain their original shape for years, regardless of the surrounding conditions. In addition, the cladding must be resistant to moisture, sudden temperature changes, and microorganisms.
Next, you need to pay attention to the ease of installation of the material and its pliability during processing. If you plan to sew with your own hands, this aspect is of great importance, because it depends on it how much time and effort it takes to work. The material should be easy to cut and drill, but at the same time maintain density on the sections, not crumble, not crack. And, of course, it must be durable so that you don't have to change the skin every 10-15 years.
Material selection
There are several types of materials that meet the specified requirements to a greater or lesser extent: moisture-resistant plywood, DSP, OSB, edged board, fiberboard. They have similar characteristics and are widely used in frame construction. To make your choice, you should familiarize yourself in more detail with the main properties and features of each of them.
Oriented strand board (OSB)
OSB panels rightfully belong to the most demanded materials in the arrangement of frame structures. They consist of layers of glued wood shavings and chips, and in the outer layers the fibers are located longitudinally, inside - transversely. For bonding the chips, synthetic resins and wax are used, which make the finished boards water-repellent.
Standard production includes the production of these boards in several categories:
- OSB-1 is intended exclusively for interior decoration of dry rooms with reduced mechanical stress;
- OSB-2 is used for the installation of load-bearing structures in rooms with low humidity;
- OSB-3 is a moisture-resistant board of increased rigidity used for the installation of load-bearing structures inside and outside the premises.
In terms of quality-functionality-price ratio, OSB-3 is the most optimal, and this material is widely used in private construction for wall cladding, the manufacture of load-bearing partitions, and reusable formwork when pouring concrete structures. Plates lend themselves well to grinding, cutting, drilling, and tightly hold nails even at a distance of 6 mm from the edge. Such cladding can simultaneously serve as a decorative coating for walls, it is enough just to treat it with a waterproof varnish or paint it.
Benefits of OSB:
- dense structure prevents delamination and splitting of the material during processing and during operation;
- slabs have elasticity and high strength, perfectly resist vibrations, compressive loads, and various deformations;
- the material is resistant to weathering and temperature extremes;
- OSB is resistant to microorganisms, insects and rodents do not like it.
Disadvantages:
- very low vapor permeability;
- flammability;
- the content of toxic compounds (phenol and formaldehyde).
Main characteristics
OSB (Oriented Strand Board) prices
OSB (oriented strand board)
Cement particle boards (DSP)
This material is a compressed mass of M500 cement and shavings (usually softwood). The standard board has three layers: the outer one is made of fine chips, the inner one is made of coarse. In addition to the main components, the composition contains hydration additives, the mass fraction of which does not exceed 3%. DSP is characterized by resistance to moisture, high strength, long service life. Plates are widely used in private construction, industrial, for work indoors and outdoors.
When covering the frame, such plates serve as an excellent basis for cladding, decorative plaster, painting, since they form a perfectly flat and smooth surface. The material undergoes 50 cycles of complete freezing and thawing without losing its characteristics; later, the strength of the slabs decreases by about 10%. Among wood-board materials, CBPB is the leader in environmental and technical indicators.
Benefits:
- very low hygroscopicity;
- resistance to mold and other microorganisms;
- DSPs are not damaged by insects and rodents;
- the material does not emit toxic substances;
- low thermal conductivity;
- fire safety.
Disadvantages:
- mechanical processing of plates requires significant efforts;
- DSP is heavy compared to other materials;
- when cutting and drilling plates, a lot of fine dust is formed, so you need to work in a respirator;
- high price.
Specifications
Fiberboard (Fibreboard)
The material consists of sheets of compressed shavings, usually coniferous. In the process of pressing, the raw materials are highly heated, which makes it possible to achieve maximum density without the use of adhesives. Thanks to this, fiberboard belongs to environmentally friendly materials, and therefore is suitable for outdoor use and for decoration of residential premises. The shavings contain natural resin, which acts as an antiseptic and protects the boards from mold.
In terms of strength, fiberboard is noticeably inferior to natural lining and OSB, but it surpasses them in terms of heat and sound insulation properties.
Windproof plate "Beltermo"
Now on the construction market, fiberboard is represented by insulating boards of several well-known brands, the most popular of which are Beltermo and Izoplat. For cladding a frame house, plates with a thickness of at least 25 mm are used, thinner sheets are used indoors.
Benefits:
- light weight;
- low thermal conductivity;
- ease of installation;
- the material does not exfoliate or crumble;
- high vapor permeability;
- resistance to moisture and microorganisms;
- lack of harmful substances in the composition.
Disadvantages:
- high price;
- prolonged stay without decorative trim causes slight deformation of the sheets;
- the outer sheathing of fiberboard requires spacer braces in the frame or rigid inner sheathing.
Specifications
Prices for fibreboard (fiberboard)
Fiberboard (Fibreboard)
Gypsum fiber sheets (GVL)
GVL consists of pressed gypsum reinforced with cellulose fibers. Due to its high strength, the material is suitable for creating load-bearing surfaces, therefore it is widely used in frame construction. It differs from drywall in greater density, uniformity, and the absence of a cardboard shell. In terms of frost resistance, soundproofing properties, as well as resistance to moisture and combustion, GVL also several times exceeds gypsum boards.
Installation of GVL is carried out in a frame and frameless way. For external wall cladding, the first option is used, where the sheets are attached to the bearing racks with self-tapping screws. The material is easy to cut and drill, and, despite its heavy weight, it is quite convenient to install. Such cladding serves as an excellent basis for tiling and decorative plastering.
Benefits:
- low hygroscopicity;
- vapor permeability;
- absence of toxic compounds in the composition;
- fire safety;
- high heat and sound insulation properties.
Disadvantages:
- lack of plasticity and fragility when bending the sheet;
- great weight.
Specifications
Plywood
Plywood is made by gluing thin veneer sheets of various types of wood (most often coniferous and birch). The sheets are laid perpendicular to each other with respect to the location of the fibers, which increases the mechanical strength of the material and increases the resistance to deformation. For the outer cladding of frame walls, plywood of increased moisture resistance is used, which is marked with FSF. The thickness of the sheets should be from 9-10 mm, thinner material will not provide the required rigidity to the frame.
The grade of plywood is of little importance for sheathing, and the cheapest unpolished 4/4 grade can be used.
From the outside, all defects will be hidden under the hinged facade, so there is no point in overpaying. Subject to the sheathing technology, the plywood coating will serve for years without losing its qualities.
Benefits:
- high bending and compressive strength;
- moisture resistance;
- wear resistance;
- ease of processing and installation;
- frost resistance.
Disadvantages:
- flammability;
- the content of formaldehyde resins;
- tendency to chipping.
Specifications
Plywood prices
Edged board
The use of edged boards for cladding is the most economical option. Wood is an environmentally friendly material, affordable, easy to install. Boards can be stuffed not only horizontally, but also at an angle of 45-60 degrees. To save material, the boards can be fastened in increments of up to 30 cm, although more often the sheathing is made solid. This design perfectly strengthens the frame and is a ready-made base for a ventilated facade.
In order for the sheathing to be reliable, the boards are chosen with a thickness of at least 25 mm, they can be grooved, for a greater joint density. Do not use raw lumber: during the drying process, the wood will begin to warp, deformations of the finish coating may appear.
Benefits:
- wood does not emit harmful substances and has excellent vapor permeability;
- boards are easy to process;
- work does not require large financial costs.
Disadvantages:
- flammability of the material;
- wood is susceptible to damage by insects and microorganisms;
- fitting and fastening elements is time consuming.
Edged board prices
Cladding technology
Installation of plates on a finished frame is carried out using the same technology, regardless of the type of material. Simultaneously with the cladding, vapor barrier and wall insulation are performed, and the finishing can be done immediately after the completion of construction or after some time. Consider the installation technology using the example of frame cladding with OSB plates.
Sheathing can be done in two ways - with and without crate. In the first case, the vapor barrier layer is located between the frame and OSB, in the second - on top of the skin. The lathing option is used in cases where OSB acts as the basis for plastering, painting or tiling, the second method is used, as a rule, when arranging a ventilated facade. Otherwise, there are no significant differences.
Step 1... Plating starts from the very corner. The first OSB sheet is applied to the frame posts so that the lower edge completely overlaps the lower trim of the house. Be sure to control the horizontal level. The slab itself is also recommended to be placed horizontally, and not vertically - this provides the structure with greater rigidity. For fastening the material, use galvanized self-tapping screws with a length of at least 50 mm. It is necessary to retreat from the edge of the OSB about 10 mm, the fastening step along the perimeter of the sheet is 15 cm, in the center - 30 cm.
Council. To firmly fix the boards, the length of the hardware must exceed the OSB thickness by at least 2.5 times. If the self-tapping screw enters the frame beam by less than 30 mm, under the influence of loads, the sheathing will begin to detach from the supporting base.
Step 2. The next plate is placed next to the first, leaving a gap of 2-3 mm for thermal expansion. In the same way, they set the horizontal in level, screw the skin to the frame guides. The joints of the slabs must necessarily fall in the middle of the rack, only in this case the fastening will be as reliable as possible. The remaining plates are fixed in a circle, leaving open areas for doorways.
Step 3. The second row of cladding must be mounted with bandaging of vertical seams. The same gap of 2-3 mm is maintained between the lower and upper plates. When covering openings, use whole sheets, not cuttings - the fewer joints, the more airtight the covering. Cutouts in the sheets are made with a jigsaw or a circular saw, having made preliminary markings with millimeter accuracy. The edges of the cuts after installing the slab should ideally match the lines of the openings.
Step 4. The top plates are installed so as to completely cover the top rail. If the house has two floors, the interfloor piping should be closed by the middle of the slab - in no case should the OSB be joined on this line.
Gallery 1. An example of the construction of a one-story frame house with OSB finishing
When developing a project for a private building, you must immediately decide on what to sheathe the house outside. After all, it is the correct decoration of the facade that will make the house not only presentable, but also warm, so you need to carefully choose the materials for its insulation and decorative design. Without a good finish, the house will look ugly and sloppy, and it will not be protected from destructive external influences, such as moisture, active solar radiation, wind, thermal extremes, etc.
In the modern construction market, a very large assortment of insulation and decorative materials is presented, from which you can choose those suitable for every taste and financial capabilities.
Requirements for facing facade materials
So that dampness does not appear in the house, it is comfortable and warm, and from the outside the house looks aesthetically pleasing, the materials for cladding must meet certain requirements.
Based on them, and it is worth choosing the desired option. So, the cladding should have the following qualities:
- have low thermal conductivity to retain heat inside the house;
- have vapor permeability - condensation should not form inside the insulation layers;
- differ in moisture resistance - do not absorb or retain moisture inside the material;
- have absolute or increased heat resistance - the casing must withstand high temperatures, under their influence not to deform and not ignite;
- be inert to chemical influences - do not change their characteristics when such substances get on it;
- be protected from the influence of microorganisms, do not serve as a breeding ground for insects and rodents;
- not to decompose or lose physical qualities under the influence of ultraviolet rays.
In order for the cladding to be effective in all matters, it is necessary not only to securely attach decorative material to the walls, but, following the technology, cover them with a whole system of layers, each of which will play its role.
There are two main systems for insulating a house, and the choice will depend on what material is planned to be used for decorative finishing and on the insulation used. In one of their systems, the insulation is attached directly to the wall with glue, in the other - along the crate being created.
House cladding under plaster
When using insulation boards that have a sufficiently high density, for example, foam plastic, fiber cement or tightly pressed glass wool in mats, which will later be covered with plaster on top, the wall lathing is not needed.
Most often, this principle is applicable on flat brick or reinforced concrete walls. In this case, the cladding is done as follows:
- on the wall of the house, at the height at which insulation will be installed, a metal profile-holder is fixed, selected according to the thickness of the selected insulation boards. The profile is brought out in level on a perfectly flat horizontal;
- the walls are cleaned of dust, and, before applying the glue, are moistened with water for better adhesion;
- further on insulation plates pre-diluted special glue is applied;
- the first row of slabs is installed on a metal profile and firmly pressed against the wall;
- the next row is installed on the first one according to the brickwork system - in the dressing;
- fixing two or three rows of plates with glue, each of them is additionally fixed with dowel mushrooms;
- further work continues on the same system to the very top. Then the insulation is installed in the same way on other walls;
- when the layer of glue under the insulation dries up, it is necessary to glue all the corners of the building, window and door slopes with corners with a reinforcing mesh. They are fixed on the same glue, its excess is removed with a spatula;
- after the corners have dried, the reinforcing mesh-serpyanka must be fixed on the entire insulated surface;
- the surface on which the serpyanka canvas will be glued is coated with a thin layer of glue. A reinforcing mesh is fixed on top of it, smoothed with a spatula, and the excess glue is also removed;
- when the surface dries well, it must be covered with polymer plaster, with a layer of 2-3 mm;
- the final stage will be the application of decorative plaster, selected in the appropriate style of the building.
Plaster prices
Plasters
House cladding using lathing
Insulation facade system using lathing can be installed in one or two layers. The position of the frame bars will depend on how you plan to install the decorative cladding.
- To install the crate correctly, it is better to first mark the wall. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the width of the insulation mats.
- Then bars or metal profiles are mounted on the surface of the walls.
- If a wooden wall is sheathed, then before laying the insulation, a vapor barrier film should be fixed to the entire surface of the walls.
- Next, insulation mats are laid between the lathing bars. If necessary, they are fixed to the wall with fungal anchors.
- Having installed an insulating layer, they stretch it on top superdiffusion membrane, fixing it on the lathing bars with construction staples stapler.
- Further, you can install decorative cladding material.
Another option for installing the lathing is done somewhat differently.
- The markings are also made on the wall and the suspensions are fixed along it at a distance of 40-60 cm from each other. Their edge-holders should protrude from the wall to the thickness of the insulation and wooden bars that will be fixed to them.
- These elements will be fasteners not only for the bars, but also for the installed insulation.
- Insulation mats are marked and notched in the places where they will be put on metal elements.
- Then the insulation is mounted on the wall, and a diffuse membrane is stretched and fixed on top of it.
- Further, bars of wooden lathing are installed in the suspensions, they tightly press the insulation against the wall and fix them in metal holders with self-tapping screws.
- On top of this system, a decorative sheathing material is also installed, using the installed battens of the sheathing as guides.
Types of decorative cladding
Modern materials allow you to make an imitation of brickwork on a wooden wall, or vice versa - transform a brick house into a wooden frame. For this, claddings such as siding made of different materials, wooden lining, block house, thermal panels, ceramic or stone tiles and others are used. It is necessary to find out in advance how each of the skins is attached and how it looks in the end - this will largely determine which insulation system to choose for it.
Clinker thermal panels
Clinker thermal panels are one of the modern materials for insulation and facade design.
They have appeared relatively recently on the construction market, and have already gained wide popularity. This is not surprising at all, since they have many positive qualities.
- One of the main advantages is that this material immediately performs two functions: it is insulation and decorative cladding.
- The panels ideally imitate brickwork and are produced in various colors, so they can be matched to any style and taste.
- They give the surface an absolute neatness and aesthetics.
- This type of cladding is convenient and relatively easy to mount on the wall.
- Thermal panels can be used for cladding any - wooden or brick surface.
- The light weight of the panels makes it possible to do without additional strengthening of the foundation of the old building.
- Since the materials have a low percentage of water absorption, the facade can be washed from a hose with water under high pressure.
- The tightness of the panels on the wall does not allow cold air to penetrate the wall of the house.
Thermopanels have a polyurethane or polystyrene foam base on which clinker tiles are pressed. A warm underlay increases the thermal insulation properties of the panels by two to four times, and creates an optimal vapor permeable microclimate for the walls, which allows you to save the material from which the house was built for a longer period.
The structure of the panels - a layer of insulation and decorative tiles "like a brick" - Clinker tiles protect the insulation base from external factors such as wind, precipitation, direct solar ultraviolet rays.
- Clinker panels are very reliably attached to the wall and can serve for 45-60 years without repair work, without losing their original appearance.
- The panels are assembled into a single plane using the existing locking joints (ridges and grooves), which ensures a tight adhesion.
- Straight wall thermal panels and corner elements for them are produced, which facilitate the task of decorating the corners of the building, making them absolutely neat, not differing from the general appearance of the walls.
- Thermal panels are reinforced with plastic guides that prevent deformation and mechanical stress of the facing material.
Installation of thermal panels
- Before starting the installation of panels on the wall, it is necessary to revise it for various bulges, significant depressions and chips, which can greatly impede quick installation. Therefore, it is necessary to bring the surface of the walls into a perfectly flat state.
- When installing panels on surfaces that have large irregularities, for example, the walls of a log cabin, a lathing of a wooden bar is arranged on them.
- In this case, it is very important to correctly calculate the location of the lathing elements so that the fixing of the panels is successful. Each of the fixed panels must have at least three battens to create the necessary sheathing rigidity.
The diagram clearly shows the places of attachments to the wall or crate and the dimensions of the panel itself and the protruding locking ridges.
- After the wall surface has been fully clad, the joints between the individual tiles are filled with a special grout. This finally isolates the insulation from external influences, gives the wall decoration the look of natural brickwork.
Video: cladding a house with thermal clinker panels
Thermal panel prices
Thermal panels
House cladding with siding
Another quite popular way to transform the facade is It is produced in various forms, imitating wood and stone walls.
It is produced from different materials using two technological processes - mono-extrusion or co-extrusion. The first of them is the molding of siding panels from a homogeneous mass, and the second is making two-layer elements. The upper layer of the material is protective against external influences, and the lower one is the base of the panel.
Truly high-quality siding has a whole range of advantages:
- it is resistant to mechanical stress, such as impacts and scratches, at the same time having good elasticity;
- the material is fireproof, resistant to thermal extremes. High performance of the material allows it to be used in various climatic conditions;
- siding is not susceptible to the formation of colonies of microorganisms, damage by insects;
- high-quality material is not seriously affected by ultraviolet rays, so it does not lose its original appearance for many years. The service life of the siding is about tens of years;
- panels provide reliable protection for building walls from wind and precipitation;
- the material does not require special maintenance and is well organized with a high-pressure water jet. The surface itself does not absorb dirt;
- cn siding especially to give any facade an aesthetic appearance. Numerous shades and the possibility of their combination open up great possibilities for design solutions;
- the material is not toxic, which means it is harmless to human health;
- in addition, in comparison with other materials, siding is quite easy to install and affordable.
Types of facade siding
Saydy ng for cladding facades they are made of vinyl, aluminum, thin steel, cement-cellulose mass and based on wood raw materials.
- Aluminum and steel siding is mainly used in industrial facilities, but is also used for decoration of private houses. The material is produced in a variety of colors, so it will perfectly decorate any facade of the house.
- Facing material from wood fibers and their binding components is made by pressing raw materials under high pressure, and then coated with protective paints. This siding is also well suited for cladding the facades of private houses.
Fiber cement siding - great for plinth cladding - Cement-cellulose version of the facing material - most often used for facing the basement areas of the building.
The most common is vinyl siding - The most popular and affordable is vinyl siding. It is widely used for the decoration of private buildings, and it justifies itself with a long-term operational period and other positive qualities. Since this material is purchased and used more often than others, it is worth considering in more detail.
Vinyl siding
This type of siding is made in the form of inlaid panels-strips with a perforated edge, through which they are attached using nails or self-tapping screws. In addition, there is a latch-lock on the strips for mating adjacent panels to each other.
The material is produced in the form of one, two or three "boards", which simplifies and speeds up the installation of siding on the wall.
The pattern of the siding can also be different. Often this is the usual "lining", but other types are rapidly gaining popularity, for example, "ship board" or "herringbone". The surface of the material can imitate the texture and color range of different materials. Panels can be mounted in a horizontal and vertical position, but for everything to go well, you need to foresee the location of the crate bars in advance.
At the production stage, vinyl siding is often covered with paint that contains titanium dioxide, which keeps the surface in its original condition for many years and gives any color a pastel softness. At the same time, you need to know that bright shades of the material indicate the absence of this component, so such coatings lose their original color much faster.
Prices for the siding range
Installation of siding panels
Horizontal siding installation work begins from the bottom of the house. Adjacent panels overlap and snap into place. The panel is fixed to the crate with nails along the top, through special holes.
During installation, you should strive for it so as to minimize the number of vertical joints. If the dimensions of the wall do not allow this (longer than the standard dimensions of the panels), use a special docking profile, installing it strictly vertically from the bottom to the top of the wall.
During the installation of siding on the walls, installation of additional decorative typesetting elements is carried out, which will add completeness to the facade - external and internal corners, spotlights, ebbs, window and door slopes, etc.
Video: installation of siding facade cladding
Block house
The block house is made of natural wood and is a board with a semicircular surface. A house sheathed with this material imitates a log frame.
There are two longitudinal grooves on the flat side of the block house board, which are designed to relieve stress from the load and improve ventilation. In addition, a groove is located on the lower edge of the panel for convenient installation, and a spike on the upper edge.
Block house panels are available in several standard sizes - from 3 to 6 m in length, from 20 to 45 mm thick and from 99 to 220 mm wide.
For the manufacture of this cladding material, mainly conifers are used, such as pine, spruce, larch. With proper processing and qualities, raw materials, this wood will serve for many years as a facade cladding. Wood is naturally endowed with excellent qualities, which man began to skillfully use for the construction and decoration of housing.
What are the main advantages of this facade material:
- ecological purity inherent in natural wood;
- lightness and strength;
- resistance to high and low temperatures;
- ease of installation;
- the ability to "breathe" - this creates a special comfortable microclimate in the house;
- affordability in comparison with a solid log.
The material is easily attached to the lathing of the insulation system and is perfect for finishing not only facades, but also walls of interior rooms.
Block house prices
Block house
Block house installation
- The first thing to do is to adapt the wood to the conditions in which it will be fixed to the façade. To do this, the panels of the block house are laid out on a prepared base, for example, spread polyethylene, and left for a day.
- Then each panel should be completely covered with the first coat of antiseptic.
- After it dries, as a rule, all material flaws appear, such as roughness and unevenness. They must be removed with sandpaper.
- A second layer of antiseptic should be applied to the leveled surface. There are similar products on sale that already have dyes in their composition - they will help protect wood from exposure to ultraviolet rays. If such processing of the material is used, then it no longer needs further painting or varnishing.
- The block house is attached to the batten starting from the bottom of the house wall. The first panel is laid up with a thorn - this is done so that during precipitation, water does not get into the panel groove.
- In places where you have to screw the board through and through, the self-tapping screw must be recessed and masked. As a composition for covering up such holes, you can use wood glue mixed with fine sawdust. You can close the hole with a dowel, the cut of which is leveled and tinted in the color of the panel.
- Installation continues along the groove-tenon system along the entire plane of the wall. The material is fixed with self-tapping screws to the crate.
- At the corners, the panels are joined through installed corner boards or through a cut at an angle of 45 degrees.
- If it is necessary to lengthen the panel, two of its segments are connected with a bar of the same width as the boards themselves. It is fixed on the reverse side, and then the joint is sealed with the mentioned mixture of glue and sawdust.
Video: cladding the facade with a block house
It should be noted that, in addition, a metal and vinyl block house is produced, which imitates the shape, texture and color of natural wood. Its cost is usually lower than that of panels made of natural quality wood. Artificial material will last a long time and will also decorate the facade well, but it will not replace the warmth and beauty of the texture of natural wood.
There are other materials for cladding the walls of a private house - it is simply impossible to tell about all of them on the scale of one article. Follow the publications of our portal - each type of facade decoration will definitely be given special attention.
TOP - 7 materials for house cladding
#6Completing the construction of a private house, summer cottage or cottage, developers are approaching the final stage, which is able to transform the appearance of the building, give the building a "zest", and also add presentability. This is the exterior decoration of the house. It improves the aesthetic perception of the structure, protects the facade from erosional destruction as a result of precipitation, temperature changes and ultraviolet radiation. Consider the types of exterior decoration of the house, each of which has certain characteristics.
Home decoration works
When should the exterior decoration of the facade of the house be carried out
Long before the end of construction, even at the stage of design work, the owners are pondering how to decorate the house outside after erecting the walls and installing the roof. The choice of finishing material is a serious task.
It is important to provide for a complex of moments:
- think over a method for attaching decorative trim;
- pay attention to the performance characteristics of the cladding;
- think over a color scheme that provides an aesthetic perception;
- to prevent damage to the integrity of the skin at the final stage of work.
Consider the following factors:
- the exterior cladding of the house must be done after the installation of windows and doors;
- the installation of decorative cladding should be done after the building has completely shrunk;
- before the start of finishing activities, it is necessary to check the deviation of the walls in the vertical plane;
- you should pay attention to the horizontalness of the base before attaching the decorative sheathing;
- facing work must be performed before the onset of winter frosts;
- before the installation of finishing elements, the load capacity of the foundation of the structure should be assessed;
- think over the compatibility of the cladding, which in its characteristics should correspond to the wall material.
To guarantee a long service life of decorative cladding, study the installation technology.
Exterior decoration of the house from SIP panels We use natural materials - natural stone cladding
When deciding how to decorate the walls outside the house, choose natural materials whenever possible. Using natural stone, you can change the external perception of the house, emphasize the sophistication of the owners' taste.
The following types of natural stone are used for decoration:
- noble marble;
- traditional sandstone;
- granite of various shades;
- textured limestone.
The stone has the following properties:
- resistance to ultraviolet rays;
- increased safety margin;
- ecological cleanliness;
- resistance to moisture;
- long term of use;
- decorativeness.
Installing stone finishes requires construction qualifications.
Home decoration with natural stone Exterior cladding of the house with artificial stone
The use of artificial stone, produced on the basis of Portland cement, polymers or gypsum with modifying additives, allows the building to be decorated in an original way, imitating the natural texture.
Artificial cladding has the following advantages:
- variety of textures;
- expanded range of colors;
- increased strength;
- reduced weight;
- ease of installation;
- reduced costs.
The formed surface needs a decorative coating with a protective varnish to ensure durability.
Using bricks
Experienced developers, when answering the question of how to sheathe the outer walls of a house, often recommend bricking the house. This is the only method of decorative cladding of a building that is performed before the installation of window and door frames. The technology allows laying insulation in the space between the masonry and the bearing wall when arranging brick cladding.
The use of bricks in home decoration Different bricks are used for cladding:
- ceramic, made by firing clay;
- silicate, produced in autoclaves;
- pressed, obtained by applying pressure to the raw material.
Advantages of brick finishing:
- reliable protection of capital walls from natural factors;
- the ability to create an original design;
- decorating masonry flaws;
- additional thermal insulation and sound absorption;
- resistance to temperature fluctuations;
- increased strength properties.
The disadvantages include only the increased weight, which increases the load on the foundation. At the design stage, the load capacity of the foundation should be assessed. Professionally executed brickwork can beautify any building.
The use of tiles for tiling
It is also popular among many finishing building materials.
Finishing the facade of a stone house with concrete tiles "like a brick" The following varieties are used:
- clinker;
- porcelain stoneware.
The appearance of the tiles imitates natural stone or aged brick.
Tile benefits:
- increased texture;
- various colors;
- reduced weight of products;
- no need for special care;
- accelerated dismantling of worn-out elements;
- resistance to negative temperatures.
The tile is able to maintain its integrity for decades. With a limited budget for the implementation of construction activities, this option is optimal.
Decorative decoration of external walls with stone chips
Marble plaster: wall decoration with decorative chips Many developers are worried about how to sheathe the walls of the house from the outside, ensuring the originality of the texture. The answer is unambiguous - it is a stone crumb. It allows you to achieve a decorative effect that is combined with high performance.
A special composition is used, in which there is a crushed fraction of mineral origin:
- granite particles;
- waste marble;
- sifted sand;
- crushed lime;
- small particles of mica;
- acrylic-based filler;
- portland cement with dyes.
The composition contains some of these ingredients, which, when mixed in certain proportions, reproduce a granite surface, as well as natural marble. The finishing mixture has good adhesion to concrete, drywall, brickwork and other substrates.
Dignity:
- accelerated application;
- increased strength;
- good vapor permeability;
- resistance to temperature changes;
- durability.
Weaknesses of the finishing mixture are the impossibility of coating metal panels and thermal insulation.
Exterior wall decoration with plaster
Exterior decoration of the house can be done with plaster Plaster is traditionally used for finishing works.
Various plaster mixes are used:
- cement;
- acrylic;
- silicate;
- silicone.
Mineral compositions differ:
- environmental friendliness;
- fire resistance;
- durability.
They also provide noise protection and heat retention. Disadvantages - they require processing with finishing mixtures and harden quickly.
The advantages of polymer plaster:
- high adhesion;
- moisture resistance;
- ease of application;
- elasticity;
- texture.
Acrylic plaster adheres well to concrete, wood, brick and stone surfaces, without cracking on their surface. However, the plaster loses its properties under the influence of ultraviolet rays, and needs to be periodically renewed.
House finished with acrylic plaster Silicate plaster is different:
- affordable price;
- fire safety;
- high adhesion;
- ease of application.
Liquid glass-based plaster needs preliminary surface preparation, hardens quickly and is not compatible with all building materials.
Silicone plaster mixes are quite expensive. They are supplied ready-made and have improved performance properties:
- moisture resistance;
- adhesion;
- plasticity;
- durability;
- frost resistance.
Deciding on the choice of plaster is made individually.
External decorative finishing of houses with siding
Siding differs from the lining by the fixing method - it is fastened with an overlap.
Exterior decoration of the walls of a frame house with basement siding Various materials are used for the manufacture of siding.:
- metal;
- vinyl;
- wood.
Siding is different:
- the presence of a protective coating;
- wide range of colors;
- original texture.
Siding is widely used for finishing works.
Exterior decoration of the facade of the house with wooden clapboard and block house
Wooden planks of various sections with fasteners are called clapboard. The lining differs in price, which is due to the use of hard, deciduous or coniferous wood.
Lining features:
- naturalness;
- decorativeness.
The beginning of work on the cladding of the house The lining is divided into varieties that differ:
- type of wood;
- profile;
- operating conditions.
A block house is a type of lining that has a semicircular profile on the outer surface. The material is easy to assemble and allows you to simulate a blockhouse.
Decoration with front panels
When deciding how to wall the house from the outside, you can choose different panels:
- metal with polymer protection;
- plastic, lightweight;
- heat-insulating, insulated with a layer of polyurethane foam;
- sandwich panels with thermal insulation and sound-absorbing properties;
- fiber cement, requiring additional painting.
The service life of the panels is calculated in decades. All kinds of panels provide:
- reliable protection of facades from the effects of natural factors;
- textured imitation of natural raw materials;
- possibility of accelerated installation.
When giving preference to panels, carefully study the performance properties.
Facade panels for exterior decoration of the house Ventilated facades construction
A ventilated façade surface is a relatively new type of finish.
It is a multi-layer structure that combines:
- supporting frame;
- finishing material;
- thermal insulation layer.
The ventilated façade provides:
- attractiveness of the building;
- thermal insulation;
- moisture removal.
The design is more expensive and provides efficient energy saving.
Exterior decorative painting
Using paint, it is possible, at low cost, to quickly transform the appearance of facades from various building materials:
- wood;
- bricks;
- stone;
- concrete.
Decorative painting of the facade of the house For quality assurance, remove any irregularities and prepare the substrate for paint coating.
Exterior facing of the house with expanded polystyrene
Although expanded polystyrene is an insulating material, it is used for the manufacture of finishing elements:
- frieze linings;
- decorative moldings;
- light gables.
Styrofoam is different:
- small mass;
- accelerated installation;
- availability.
There is a serious drawback - expanded polystyrene is afraid of mechanical damage.
Combined finish
It provides:
- combination of different materials. Tile, for example, can be combined with plaster, paint or other finishes;
- division of the facade into parts with different designs. This allows you to accentuate the corners of a building or customize different floors of a building.
Combined finishing of the facade of the house Decorativeness is ensured through the use of matching materials.
Exterior decoration of a house from a bar
Lumber buildings have certain characteristics. With a slight shrinkage, cracks may form on the surface of the walls, which will adversely affect the finish.
It is possible to use various materials for decoration:
- bricks;
- tiles;
- siding;
- lining.
It is undesirable to use plaster, which may fall behind when the wooden structure shrinks.
There are many ways to decorate your home using a variety of materials.
Having made the decision to veneer the facade of the building, follow these tips:
- wait for the final shrinkage of the building;
- study the characteristics of finishing materials;
- check the compatibility of the selected cladding with the wall material;
- understand the technology of performing cladding work.
The publication will help to determine the best option, thanks to which the building will acquire an aesthetic and original look.
A private house built of wood cannot always be considered a complete structure, since in many cases it requires external and internal wall decoration. There are many different options, but not all of them are suitable for cladding this kind of building. In this article, we will look at how you can sheathe a wooden house inside and out and how best to do it yourself.
When you need to sheathe a wooden house
To begin with, it is worth highlighting those buildings that initially does not make sense to somehow sheathe the outside, and even more so to do insulation. Whichever finishing option you choose, it will not be cheap, and therefore impractical for wooden houses of summer or periodical residence. As for finishing the home from the inside, it is more a matter of design and the wishes of the homeowner than a necessity. After all, wooden walls made of timber or rounded logs always look attractive.
Now we will give the cases when wooden houses are cladding from the outside:
- there is a solid and sturdy log house, but old enough, which is why the appearance of the building leaves much to be desired;
- frame buildings made of wood must be veneered in any case on both sides, this is their design;
- if a wooden house built from a bar or log needs additional protection and wall insulation.
Often there are log houses that have stood for more than 50 years and are ready to serve the same amount. Additional cladding from the street will not only change the appearance of the home for the better, but also protect the wood from precipitation and thus extend its service life. The same protection will not interfere with walls in need of insulation. Since it is customary to carry out thermal insulation outside, and not inside a wooden house, the insulation must be hidden behind a hydro-barrier and revetted, which will be discussed below.
Council. The exterior decoration of a newly built wooden house is carried out after 1 year. The shrinkage of buildings of this type is quite significant, as a result of which the external design of the finished walls may suffer and everything will have to be redone.
Materials for exterior and interior decoration
Despite the wide selection of cladding materials, their list for wooden houses is somewhat limited for various reasons. For example, it is relatively inexpensive to decorate a house with plaster, but this method is suitable only for frame buildings sheathed from the outside with OSB sheets, as shown in the diagram below. Plastering a log cabin or a dwelling from a bar will be problematic.
As you can see in the diagram, the basic mineral wool insulation located inside the wall is supplemented with a layer of polystyrene or expanded polystyrene attached to the OSB plywood sheathing sheets. And after that, tinted decorative plaster is applied. But such a facade finish is a rarity for a wooden house, the following materials for external cladding are more common:
- vinyl siding;
- siding made of wood, the so-called block house;
- lining;
- complex system "ventilated facade".
For reference. It is cheaper and faster to sheathe the walls of a house with painted corrugated board, this practice also takes place. But at the same time, the design of the building looks completely cheap and resembles a production building. In addition, the corrugated board quickly fade in the sun and loses color. Unless you get an expensive material coated with a pattern, as in the photo:
Vinyl siding is a very popular material, it is relatively inexpensive and retains its appearance for a long time, moreover, with its help it is quite possible to sheathe a wooden house on your own. It will be more expensive to decorate the walls with another siding - an imitation of a bar and a rounded log called "block house".
This is a very attractive and pretty material, but it requires maintenance, like a regular lining made of wood.
If we talk about what is the best way to sheathe a wooden house without reference to the cost of materials, then the “ventilated facade” system is beyond competition. It is a frame made of galvanized profiles, inside which insulation is attached, and outside - finishing elements. Moreover, the latter can look like siding, brick or natural stone - to choose from. True, the system can hardly be called cheap, and not every homeowner can handle the installation.
It is easier to solve the problem than to decorate the walls of a wooden house from the inside. For this purpose, the following are most often used:
- ordinary and moisture resistant drywall;
- oSB particle sheets;
- ordinary sheathing boards - lining.
Drywall and OSB are an excellent basis for any finishing layer - various wallpapers, tiles and other materials. Moisture-resistant gypsum boards are perfect for the inner lining of the bathroom, and the lining is for the bath built into the house. OSB boards are not used very often inside buildings, since drywall is much more environmentally friendly.
A few words about the insulation used. It is well known that houses built of wood must "breathe". This means that the material of the walls is transparent to vapors, due to which moisture from the inside of the premises is removed to the outside, passing through the wood. If a vapor-tight barrier is placed in their way, then moisture will condense in front of it, which will lead to the gradual destruction of the fence. Therefore, it is not recommended to use moisture-repellent polymers such as penoplex or penofol.
The best solution for insulation when decorating a wooden house is mineral or basalt wool. It is vapor permeable and absolutely not subject to combustion.
An exception to the rule is a frame building, where the mineral wool layer is part of the enclosing structure, and there is no main wall. Here, the insulation is protected from vapor penetration by a film on the one hand and waterproofing on the other, as shown in the diagram:
Sheathing a wooden house with siding
This exterior decoration of the house can be carried out with or without insulation, if necessary. But in any case, an air gap must be provided between the vinyl siding and the wall for ventilation. Its task is to remove moisture that gets from the outside onto a diffusion membrane, which plays the role of a hydro and wind barrier. This is why vinyl siding canvases do not attach directly to walls, no matter how smooth they are. First, it is necessary to assemble the lathing from wooden beams, less often from galvanized profiles.
Council. Before sheathing an old chopped house, you should thoroughly dig in the cracks between the logs using natural materials - felt, tow or moss.
The width of the lathing bars for external finishing without insulation should be from 3 to 5 cm in order to provide an air gap. The interval between the slats is 40-50 cm. But first of all, a diffusion membrane is laid, it is capable of transmitting vapors, but reflecting water. Membrane sheets are laid horizontally, starting from the bottom, with an overlap of 10 cm and glued at the joints with tape. After that, it is pressed with bars or lathing profiles, installed vertically.
Note. If you plan to install vertical siding, then the bars should be fixed horizontally. They should be pretreated with an antiseptic composition.
All openings - windows and entrance doors - are also framed by battens. At the same time, it is better to nail wooden elements to the wall with nails, and not fasten them with self-tapping screws. The latter do not allow structures to move when shrinking or thermal expansion. An important point: the surfaces of all the bars must be strictly vertical and aligned in one plane. Now you can start installing the siding using the starter and other types of planks shown in the figure:
When adjusting the siding, it is important to take into account its thermal elongation, so the ends of the vinyl strips should not rest against the slots of the corner strips on the sides (meaning horizontal installation). The strips must be cut off and inserted between the planks with a gap of 3-5 mm, and the nails must not be driven in until they stop. For this, oval holes are made in the siding so that the strip can move a little. By the way, the installation is carried out from the starting bar - from the bottom up.
When the length of 1 strip is not enough to cover the entire wall of a wooden house, then you need to put one or more connecting strips, placing them as aesthetically as possible. Although siding is allowed to be laid with an overlap (without a plank), such a connection looks unpleasant, and therefore it is worth using it as a last resort. Well, there are special vinyl strips for framing windows and doors.
If it is decided to combine the finishing process with insulation, then the installation of heat-insulating material is also included in the work procedure. Given its thickness (not less than 100 mm, and in the northern regions and all 150 mm), it is necessary to take bars for the crate of the corresponding width. Moreover, the membrane is not applied immediately to the wall, but already on top of the insulation. It is fastened by nailing on top of the strips of a counter lattice with a thickness of 30 mm. Further work is carried out in the same way as described above.
Decorating a wooden house with a block house
In essence, a block house for cladding a house is the same siding, only made of wood, and the work algorithm is the same.
True, there are a number of differences that we will focus on:
- there are no starter, corner or connector bars. All joints will have to be faced from the outside with shaped elements made of wood;
- block house strips are cut strictly to size, and when forming inner and outer corners, the material is cut at an angle of 45 ° for joining;
- the canvases are fastened from bottom to top on nails or special clamps. True, the latter tend to unbend and the stripes may fall out over time;
- when the board is oriented horizontally, it is better to install with the spike up and the groove down.
One of the most difficult knots is the adjoining of the cladding in the form of an inner corner. Of course, you can ignore the resulting gap and sheathe the corner with a shaped element. But in order for the cladding of a wooden house block house, made by hand, to be of high quality, it is worth cutting out an arched cutout in the adjoining part, as shown in the photo:
At the end, an antiseptic primer is applied to the finished surface, after which it is finished with several layers of varnish or paint.
Interior decoration with clapboard
This is one of the most popular methods of cladding private wooden houses from the inside, used in almost all rooms, especially in the steam room. At the moment, there are several types of lining on sale:
- classic;
- block house;
- softline;
- landhouse;
- american.
The technology of wall cladding inside the house is the same for all types, and work begins with the device of a vapor barrier made of film and installation of the lathing. The film is laid out with an overlap of 10 to 15 cm, after which the joints should be carefully glued with double-sided or ordinary tape. From above, it is pressed against the wall with battens, the thickness of which is 20 mm. The slats are nailed to the wall vertically (with horizontal installation of the cladding) at intervals of 40-50 cm.
Important. All battens of the lathing should be brought out in one vertical plane by means of various pads or mounting wedges.
The first board is fixed with self-tapping screws at a distance of 40-50 mm from the floor, taking into account the subsequent installation of the plinth. All subsequent planks are best fixed with metal elements - clamps, put on the previous board and nailed to the lathing bars with carnations. It is not recommended to fasten the cladding by driving nails into the grooves of the lining.
As with the exterior cladding of a house with a block house, all joints and corners should be revetted with shaped parts or a wooden plinth. After that, it remains to treat the wood with an antiseptic and cover it with several layers of varnish. A more detailed finishing technology is shown in the video:
Interior finishing with plasterboard
Plasterboard is an excellent material for rough finishing of any interior surfaces of a wooden house, including the ceiling. Also, moisture-resistant gypsum board is indispensable in rooms with high humidity - in bathrooms and dressing rooms. Subsequently, you can put tiles on it or apply liquid wallpaper. The technology here is simple: first, galvanized profiles are attached to the wall or ceiling so that their shelves are in the same plane. To strengthen the structure, jumpers from the same profiles are placed between the vertical profiles.
Sheets of drywall are screwed to the shelves of the profiles with self-tapping screws so that their caps are flush with the surface of the gypsum board. The step between adjacent self-tapping screws is 10-15 cm. Where it is impossible to fasten a whole sheet, it is necessary to accurately measure and cut off a part of it. This is done with a sharpened knife or specialized tool. When the wall is completely sewn up, then the joints and the caps of the self-tapping screws must be leveled with a putty, which, after drying, should be wiped with sandpaper. At this point, the surface is ready for further cladding.
Conclusion
Thanks to the existing cladding materials, it is possible to give any wooden house a presentable appearance, and even "turn" it into stone with the help of external cladding. In addition, the finishing will save wood longer and increase the life of the building as a whole. It will not be superfluous to insulate the house from the outside, as a result of which the cost of heating it will decrease.
Most often, people build houses from wood. The reasons may vary. Wood is an environmentally friendly material. Such a house is cheaper to build than a stone one. It maintains a normal level of humidity. For such a construction, a strip base is sufficient. But often this structure requires additional external finishing. There are a huge number of facing materials on the market. Therefore, it is recommended to thoroughly study them all in advance. Only then can you make a choice of how to sheathe a wooden house from the outside.
Reasons and goals
The decision to make additional cladding of a wooden house can be made for several reasons:
- During the construction of the house, wood was used, which is visually not very beautiful.
- Over time, the tree has lost its appeal.
- The house requires additional heat and waterproofing.
- An increase in the refractoriness of the structure is required.
- Pests have appeared: termites, mold, fungus, etc.
To achieve these goals, there is a huge amount of different materials (facing, insulating).
Material selection rules
When using insulating materials, it is important to maintain normal indoor humidity. For this, there must be a decrease in vapor permeability from the inside out. Thus, moisture will leave the home in a natural way. Failure to follow this rule can lead to serious problems. The formation of condensation between the layers will create excellent conditions for the development of mold and mildew. Destruction will begin. And in cold weather, this condensate will freeze and expand, deforming your home.
This rule applies only to wood. The rest of the materials have not very good steam permeability. There are two ways to fix this.
- The first method is to fix the cladding directly to the facade wall. In this case, the inner part of the wall must be equipped with a vapor barrier. Through it, moisture will not penetrate into the house, but will come out with the help of ventilation.
- The second way is to install a ventilated facade. It is a unique dividing layer between the interior wall of the house and the exterior finish. Thanks to her, the air inside circulates freely, providing natural ventilation.
Wait until the house has completely shrunk before tiling. For each material from which the house is built, its own term:
- felled trees are planted for at least two years;
- rounded logs - from 6 to 12 months;
- glued and profiled beams do not need shrinkage.
Wall preparation and vapor barrier
Foil, polyethylene and bituminous roofing material can act as a vapor barrier. But most often, a polyethylene film is used for the vapor barrier of wooden structures. It does its job well and is inexpensive.
When using polyethylene as vapor barrier, leave a small space between the walls and this layer.
If the house is built from round logs, you need to make a rack frame. The thickness of the slats is 20–30 mm. They must be nailed vertically to the wall at a distance of 400–500 mm from each other. And already on them to mount polyethylene.
The vapor barrier is installed in 3 stages:
- Make small holes (diameter 200-300 m) in the battens along the edge of the perimeter of the wall.
- Use nails or a construction stapler to attach the film to the frame with an overlap of 150 mm.
- Using special tape, glue all the joints of the vapor barrier, as well as the places where it is material to the frame.
Installation of heat and waterproofing layer
There are not so many heaters for wooden structures.
Table: heat and waterproofing materials
| Name | Description |
| Styrofoam boards | Advantages:
Disadvantages:
|
| Penoplex | Appeared relatively recently. Manufactured by extrusion method. Advantages:
Disadvantages:
|
| Mineral wool | The most popular option. Advantages:
This material has one drawback. He absolutely does not tolerate moisture on the surface. |
Most often, it is mineral wool that is used. It should be purchased in the form of plates. It is more convenient to work with.
The installation process takes place in several stages:
- First of all, the frame is installed. For this, boards 5 cm thick and 10 cm wide are nailed onto the vapor barrier layer. The distance between them should be 20-30 mm less than the width of the mineral wool slab. This is necessary for a more snug fit of the material to the wall surface without using additional fasteners. Mineral wool can be laid in 2 layers. To do this, you need to make another frame so that the second layer covers the joints of the first.
- The waterproofing material is now attached. The uneven rough side of the film should adhere to the mineral wool, and the smooth side should look outward. You need to fasten the film with a construction stapler with an overlap. And the joints and the places where the material is fastened with staples must necessarily be glued with special tape.
- On the frame, which was made for thermal insulation, boards of 5x4 cm are nailed. This will be a crate. It will create additional space for air circulation, and will become a frame for finishing work on finishing.
Photo gallery: thermal insulation materials
Table: what can be used to sheathe the house outside
| Name | Benefits | disadvantages | Features: | |
| Wood cladding | lining | Recreates the wooden essence of a house. It looks like a flat board of different shades of wood. Easy to install. Environmentally friendly, durable, has good heat and sound insulation. | It is susceptible to insect pests, but this problem can be solved. It is enough to treat the surface with special protective agents. Requires periodic touch-up. | - |
| imitation of a bar | Environmental friendliness, durability, good heat and sound insulation, low weight, reliable fastening. | Increased flammability, the need for constant care. | Wood panels, very similar to real timber. There is a thorn-groove system. It is made from softwood, hardwood and cedar. The panels are from 2 to 6 m long, and from 13.5 to 19.5 cm wide. Their thickness varies from 2 to 3.5 cm. The panels are fastened with tongue and groove. Their moisture content is not more than 10-14%. Divided into classes:
You can also find an elite class, the cost of which is very high. |
|
| block house | Aesthetic appearance, environmental friendliness, durability, low initial level of humidity, easy installation. | Low level of vapor permeability, the need for constant maintenance, lack of thermal insulation properties, it burns. | This is a board made of wood, the inside of which is flat and the outside is cylindrical. Equipped with a tongue-and-groove system for easy installation. One or more longitudinal grooves are made on the inside of the board to reduce pressure on the facing surface and for ventilation. Maximum material moisture 15%. To make the material, you need to chop a log from four sides with special equipment. A block house is made from the cut parts, grinding and giving the desired dimensions. The central part of the log goes to the timber and lining. The block house is made from pine, spruce, cedar, Siberian larch, linden, birch and aspen. Divided into classes:
|
|
| Siding | metal | Reliability, fire resistance, lack of brittleness, ease of installation even at subzero temperatures, durability. | A small selection of colors, it looks like a public building. Powder coated siding can be selected. Its color assortment is larger, and the paint will not leave the surface for a very long time. | For manufacturing, thin aluminum or galvanized steel is used. Covered with a decorative and protective layer. Fasten in the same way as vinyl. |
| vinyl | Low price, easy to assemble. | Sun exposure. Increased fragility in the winter season. | In the manufacture, polyvinyl chloride or PVC is used. These are thin strips (1.1–1.2 mm thick), the width of which is 20.5–25.5 cm. There is a lock on one side of the longitudinal edge, and perforation for fasteners on the other. Fasten it to a crate, preferably metal. During installation, the screws are loosely screwed in so as not to deform the material. | |
| PVC panels | Moisture resistance, flexibility, a wide range of applications, a large selection of colors, ease of installation, no need for special care. | Poor UV resistance, low impact resistance. | This finishing option is used quite widely, and not only for its intended purpose due to its low cost. | |
| High fire resistance, preservation of the original appearance for a long time, a wide variety of colors and shapes, ease of installation, protection from corrosion by a plastic coating, environmental friendliness, durability, low price. | Low noise insulation, high probability of condensation formation, complexity of installation on the roof due to the large size, since it is not easy to cut the sheets. | Transversely rigid profiled steel sheet. Manufactured by cold stamping. The thicker the steel sheet, the deeper the stamping and the stronger the product itself. The thickness varies from 0.5 to 1.2 mm. A polymer or zinc layer is applied to protect against corrosion. Currently, decking with a zinc layer and a polymer coating for decoration is popular. It is made of rolled steel, so the length can be any, and the width is from 98 to 185 cm. | ||
| Facade tile | Moisture resistance, reliability, durability and strength, attractive appearance, fire resistance, color stability, ease of installation due to low weight. | Increased fragility. | - | |
| A rock | Environmental friendliness, durability, reliability, resistance to climatic changes, ease of installation, uniqueness of appearance. | Very heavy weight. | - | |
| High strength, resistance to UV rays, natural color, frost resistance, a wide range of textures, water resistance. | High cost, fragility before installation. | For home decoration, professionals recommend a glazed or engobed type of brick, clinker. The first two will give the house an original look. They have a wide range of colors. The surface of the facade before cladding must be free of severe deformation. When working, you need to be very careful, since these bricks are fragile. Clinker, in addition to the facade cladding, is used to finish the basement. Facade bricks are made using refractory clay. It is fired at a high temperature. |
||
Photo gallery: types of facing material
The lining can be absolutely any color. The house with imitation of timber looks very natural There are several types of material with their own advantages and disadvantages, one of them is a block house
A house clad with metal siding looks more like a public building Vinyl siding looks like a tree PVC panels are not only monotonous, but also with patterns
Bright color options for corrugated board allow you to choose the perfect cladding for yourself Facade tiles have a different texture Finishing the facade of a house with natural stone looks very expensive
Varieties of facade bricks
Reviews of real people
The house is good, but the tree is already beginning to deteriorate in places. Therefore, we thought about its good and reliable protection. Painting is not an option, definitely, since the tree has never been painted. We'll have to pour out eighteen or even more liters of paint on these walls. And periodically painting is also not the best solution: the house is large enough. Along with the finishing of the facade, a complete change of the roof is also planned, since a tin roof is just "tin" !!! There is no question of any painting here. So the priority is practicality and durability, not authenticity.
http://forum.onliner.by/viewtopic.php?t\u003d14667282
If it is metal, then I would not recommend it for living quarters: 1. Metal can heat up in summer 2. The siding itself in the places of bending or cutting can corrode. In principle, we solve this issue by processing with anticorrosive material from the inside, but for an office, a hangar, a utility room, that's it. For a house, a wooden house block is better suited. Eco-friendly and beautiful. But more expensive. I do not agree with those who write that the house block requires constant maintenance. I have a block house facade decoration in my dacha. No problem in 5 years. The main thing is to correctly process it initially before sheathing. And under the skin.
http://forum.onliner.by/viewtopic.php?p\u003d83009084#p83009084
Honestly, I don't really understand. Maybe I'm wrong, but the meaning of panels filled with foamed polymer, in my understanding, is energy saving and as an extra. insulation. And if you hang them on the ventilation facade, then, in fact, there will be no energy saving, the air calmly walks both inside and outside. Accordingly, does it make sense to use an inherently insulating material in the form of a finish of a purely decorative nature? But here "everyone sharpens as he wants." I don’t pretend to be the ultimate truth, I just express my doubts.
https://www.forumhouse.ru/threads/270223/
Since 96 I have been dealing with natural stone cladding, and not a single stone has fallen, I agree with RELIABLE, for natural stone a structurally strong wall is needed, although our guys will also coat it with insulation, but the work is added and it takes a lot of time.
engineer 05 Doug
https://www.forumhouse.ru/threads/154141/page-2
Step-by-step instructions for cladding a wooden house with a professional sheet with your own hands
All the work on cladding a house from a log house or other materials can be done independently.
How to make a choice
For cladding wooden buildings, a professional sheet of grade C is ideal. It has subspecies:
- C8 - lightweight and durable sheets. Their low weight makes it possible to perform the cladding in the shortest possible time.
- C10 - it has a wide wave and is thicker than the previous one. Ideal for vertical cladding of building façades.
- C15 - like C10 is also a good option for cladding. In addition to all the advantages, it is galvanized and polymer treated.
Material calculation
Calculation of the required amount of profiled sheet implies:
- Determination of the area that will be covered by the skin. The height of the facade must be multiplied by the width. This will give you the total surface area of \u200b\u200bone wall. However, not all of it will be covered by the skin. Therefore, you need to measure the area of \u200b\u200bthe elements that will not be faced (windows, doors). Take similar measurements on each side of the house. All found numbers must be added.
- Finding the right amount of material. To do this, calculate the area of \u200b\u200bone sheet of corrugated board. Divide the previous parameter by the size of one unit of material. Get the number of sheets you want. But always have a small supply of material.
Stages of work
Facade cladding takes place in several stages:
- Installation of battens. The sheathing of the corrugated board is made on a metal frame with reinforced fasteners, fixed with dowels. Can also be laid on wood. At this stage, you need to use the building level.
- Fastening the insulation. Place it in the grooves of the lathing, secure it with disc dowels.
- Fastening profiled sheets. Self-tapping screws are suitable for this.
- Installation of fractional elements: basement, corner, drainage and roofing.
Helpful hints:
- Use a protective film for the insulation to keep moisture out.
- Self-tapping screws with moisture-proof gaskets are ideal for mounting cladding.
- The originality of the sheathing design can be achieved by laying the corrugated board horizontally and vertically alternately.
- Don't forget to waterproof your foundation.
- Fix the guide profile with anchor bolts.
- Fasten well to the frame profile of the struts with jumpers.
Video: sheathing with corrugated board
Facade cladding with block house
The cladding of a wooden house with a block house has its own characteristics
Table: required tools and materials
Material calculation
For cladding the facade, a pine beam 10–20 cm wide and 4–6 m long is more often used. The amount of material required can be found by calculating the total area for cladding.
Step-by-step finishing with facade bricks
When to choose a brick for cladding:
- When you need to protect low quality and unattractive timber.
- When you need to carry out additional thermal insulation.
- If a frame house is built.
Warming
Insulation can be put both outside the house and inside. If you choose the second option, then the space of the rooms will be reduced. For this option, you should not take foam insulation. It has too many disadvantages. Better to use basalt. In this case, a vapor barrier must be placed on both sides. After that, sheathe the walls with clapboard or imitation timber.
To insulate the house outside, a mineral wool or basalt material is suitable, which must be covered with a vapor barrier membrane. Then you can proceed directly to the finishing itself.
Table: calculating the number of bricks
| unit of measurement | The size bricks | Excluding mortar joints, pcs. | Taking into account mortar joints. PCS. |
1 m 3 masonry | 1 | 512 | 394 |
| 1,5 | 378 | 302 | |
| 2 | 242 | 200 | |
| 1 m 2 masonry in 0.5 bricks (thickness walls -12 cm) | 1 | 61 | 51 |
| 1,5 | 45 | 39 | |
| 2 | 30 | 26 | |
| 1 m 2 masonry in 1 brick (thickness walls - 25 cm) | 1 | 128 | 102 |
| 1,5 | 95 | 78 | |
| 2 | 60 | 52 | |
| 1 m 2 masonry in 1.5 bricks (thickness walls - 38 cm) | 1 | 189 | 153 |
| 1,5 | 140 | 117 | |
| 2 | 90 | 78 | |
| 1 m 2 masonry in 2 bricks (wall thickness - 51 cm) | 1 | 256 | 204 |
| 1,5 | 190 | 156 | |
| 2 | 120 | 104 | |
| 1 m 2 masonry in 2.5 bricks (wall thickness - 64 cm) | 1 | 317 | 255 |
| 1,5 | 235 | 195 | |
| 2 | 150 | 130 |
Brick finishing stages
Now you can go to the cladding. For this:
- Clean the wall surfaces well from unnecessary parts and treat them with an antiseptic.
- Install vapor barrier material.
- Make a horizontal batten with the distance between the battens 2 cm less than the width of the insulation material.
- Fix the insulation using disc dowels.
- Add another layer of vapor barrier.
- Leave a small gap to the ventilation brick (20–40 mm).
- Throw plumb lines from the corners of the building. This will ensure that the brickwork is being laid correctly. Control the process with a level.
- Tie up the wood wall and brickwork with mesh reinforcement. To do this, one end of the reinforcement is attached to the wooden surface of the wall, and the other, without protruding, rests against the brickwork.
- Do the facing in half a brick.
- Leave small gaps (1–0.5 mm) for air circulation in the first and last rows of masonry. The distance between them is no more than 4 m.
Video: facing with facade bricks
The variety of options for finishing wood construction is great. Among all these types of facing material, you can easily choose the right one for you.