Despite the development of modern technologies in construction, wooden houses are still often found in holiday villages, villages and villages. At the same time, one of the main issues when building such a house is proper organization of wall insulation.
Made with high quality, using the best materials, in accordance with standards, thermal insulation helps maintain optimal temperature in the house in the summer, as well as with the onset of the long, harsh Russian winter.
As is known wood is extremely susceptible to mold development and the service life of a wooden structure directly depends on the degree of preservation of the structural elements. With the onset of winter and the first frosts, the heating season begins.
We strive to ensure a comfortable temperature inside the room, and meanwhile the logs and wooden beams from which the walls are made are subjected to the real test. Warm on one side, they come into contact with cold outside air on the other., and the result of this is a constantly formed, condensation that is harmful to wood.
The main goals of thermal insulation are to reduce heat loss in winter and maintain important elements in the structure in proper condition.
Conventionally, wall insulation can be divided into two types:
- walls of a wooden house;
- insulation of house walls.
There are many skeptics who condemn this or that method, but each of them has its own pros and cons. The choice of a certain insulation method is due to a number of reasons and factors, but with strict adherence to technology and proper execution of work, selection of appropriate materials, any of them turns out to be effective.
The main difference between these two methods of insulation is essentially that on which side of the load-bearing walls of a wooden house will the insulation be carried out?, and, as a result, how effective it will be in terms of heat conservation and benefits for the entire structure.
Owners and owners of wooden houses resort to insulation from the inside, not wanting to cover the unique, beautiful facades of the building, made using original masonry methods, or facades of architectural value. Such insulation will not be noticeable from the outside, and the appearance of the building will not change.
External insulation
The goal of external insulation is maximum efficiency.. It involves the creation of an insulating structure on the outside of load-bearing wooden walls and is more aimed at extending the life of the building, preserving all its important elements made of wood, protecting them from the destructive forces of nature and surrounding weather conditions.
External wall insulation remains quite common, often used in construction and renovation. And this is confirmed by a number of advantages:
- all temperature fluctuations, all the vagaries of the weather are taken over by a layer of insulation and finishing, accordingly, the service life of the wooden elements of the house increases significantly;
- the opportunity to insulate a long-built house. Often such houses are purchased ready-made in holiday villages along with plots, and it can be financially difficult to immediately rebuild a new house.;
- the interior of the house remains untouched, which is convenient from the point of view of living and organizing everyday life;
- the opportunity to choose a new look for your home due to the finishing
Pie wall
In other words - composition and order of all insulation elements. When insulating a wooden house from the inside, the so-called “pie” can be represented as follows:
- bearing wall;
- sheathing;
- insulation - mineral wool;
- vapor barrier film;
- finishing layer.
wall pie
Which insulation to choose?
When choosing insulation for the walls of a house, first of all should be addressed 
attention to the ability of the material to pass steam and air while retaining heat.
The severity of the climate of the region of residence should also be taken into account.
Insulation materials include:
- interventional insulation materials used during the construction stage;
- and insulation materials used for insulation from the outside or inside.
Inter-crown insulation is used in laying inter-crown joints. Such insulation can be synthetic or natural (from jute, moss, flax, hemp). The main property of these materials is low thermal conductivity and the ability to accumulate and release the resulting moisture. The most common today are insulation made from flax and jute fiber.
Basalt (mineral) wool is widely used to insulate walls from the outside or inside., or fiberglass wool in the form of rolls or mats, with a density of 80-120 kg/m3. In addition, it is an environmentally friendly material.
It is not recommended to use polystyrene foam or penoplex as an element of the pie., since these materials are vapor- and moisture-proof and prevent air exchange between the house and the outside environment.
The following materials may be suitable for insulation:
Mineral wool is the best insulation option
Sealing seams and joints of forming elements
This method is internal wall insulation, aimed at sealing joints and cracks in logs. In this case, various sealants are used (silicone, latex, acrylic, linen rope, tow). This method is convenient because it can be easily done with your own hands and does not require special skills, it does not interfere with the release of steam and is the most economically profitable.
Technically it is carried out as follows:
- the edges of joints and cracks are cleaned,
- cavities are filled with rope, foam rubber;
- a layer of sealant is applied on top;
- the sealant is smoothed with a brush until a smooth surface is formed;
- Remains of sealant are removed with a rag.
Sealing with sealant
Sealing seams with fabric
Sheathing preparation and installation
When installing the sheathing, you should rely on the thickness of the insulation. The thickness of the bars will be chosen the same. Most often the timber is chosen 10-50 mm thick and 100 mm wide.
Install the sheathing transversely to the laying of logs with a step between the bars equal to the width of the heat-insulating mats with minus 3 centimeters for a tight fit. The height of the sheathing is individual for individual rooms.
Parallel to the laying of logs, the lathing is also installed in the same way (the so-called “counter-lattice”). To install the sheathing, you should choose high-quality material without signs of rotting. Before installation, all wooden parts and surfaces should be treated with an antiseptic.
NOTE!
Do not use thin boards for lathing, since it simultaneously serves as a place for attaching finishing coatings.
Lathing
Do-it-yourself insulation of walls from the inside of a wooden house
Insulation of walls inside a wooden house using mineral wool. When using this method, glass wool, slag fiber, or mineral fiber mats are used.
This material is the most effective in terms of thermal insulation and sound insulation, and is environmentally friendly. However, due to its structure, mineral wool allows steam to pass through and is capable of accumulating water.
For this reason, when using it in insulation, layers of hydro- and vapor insulation must be used.
Mineral wool is available to customers in the form of rolls and mats. When insulating, it is most convenient to use mats by simply inserting them between the profiles of the sheathing made. In this case, the gaps between the mats should be no more than 2 mm. Such gaps are subsequently sealed with adhesive tape - preferably foil, or plumber's tape.
Step-by-step installation:
- the required number of mineral wool mats is prepared, based on calculations of the square footage of the walls of the premises;
- mineral wool is tightly inserted between the sheathing beams;
- the top mats are trimmed to height;
- Gaps and seams between mats are taped with mounting tape.
Some builders use foam plastic when insulating walls indoors. However, the main criterion for choosing in its favor is its low cost. From the point of view of efficiency, polystyrene foam does not have the property of vapor transmission, and the result of its use in the absence of proper organization of vapor and waterproofing will be the so-called “ Greenhouse effect"and the inevitable development of mold in rooms with such walls.
Laying mineral wool
Installation of insulation
Vapor barrier and waterproofing of walls
Insulation of wooden houses begins with waterproofing. This is the layer of special film closest to the load-bearing walls, the main task of which is to ensure air circulation and protection of the insulation layer from getting wet and freezing, preventing its destruction and preserving the tree from the development of mold bacteria.
Waterproofing is one of the most important aspects in wall insulation.
Waterproofing membrane
In the process of work, anti-condensation membranes, diffuse breathable films, polymer multilayer films, and vapor barrier membranes are used. When waterproofing, it is important to maintain complete tightness. To do this, the film is overlapped and nailed down using a stapler and staples, and the seams are sealed with mounting tape.
Vapor barrier is a finishing coating that is laid on top of mineral wool and serves to protect against the penetration of water vapor into the insulation structure.
The fastening is similar to the installation of waterproofing.
Vapor barrier
Conclusion
Thus, responsibly organized insulation of the walls of a log house can play a big role in the long and reliable operation of a wooden house. It will help reduce heat loss and also protect the load-bearing elements of the structure from all kinds of weather conditions.
However, the preparation of such an event should be approached responsibly. The service life of your home depends on how well it is carried out.
Useful video
Tips for insulating a wooden house from the inside:
In contact with
Follow technology insulating a wooden house from the outside, perform the work carefully and in the specified sequence:
- the first layer is a film for vapor barrier of walls;
- installation of frame sheathing;
- direct installation of the selected insulation;
- attaching a waterproofing layer to the frame;
- installation of facade cladding.
Choice of insulation
What is the best way to insulate a wooden house? Get to know the popular materials for protecting wooden structures.
Mineral wool
Many owners choose mineral wool. Quite reasonable. This lightweight material:
- retains heat well;
- not subject to combustion;
- it is soft and elastic;
- it is easy to work with;
- withstands temperature changes;
- There are no cold bridges.
External wall insulation with mineral wool is often used by owners of new and old timber houses. First, they arrange the frame and fill it with rolls of mineral wool. The material fills voids well.
The supporting structures of the frame tightly hold the mineral wool. No additional fastening is required. The material is produced in rolls, slabs or mats.
New boards are laid on top and sheathed with plastic siding. The building will take on a modern look.
Ecowool
This insulation came to us from Finland. In harsh conditions, the material, consisting of cellulose and antiseptics, successfully withstood the test of severe frosts and icy winds.
Advantages:
- environmentally friendly, natural material;
- prevents mold;
- ecowool is not chewed by mice;
- excellent noise and heat insulation;
- used for external and internal insulation;
- the walls “breathe” well;
- does not emit toxic substances when smoldering.
Installation of ecowool does not require the installation of a vapor barrier layer. Methods of applying cellulose mixture: wet-glue, bulk, blowing using a special machine.
A high-quality, monolithic layer 10 cm thick will create reliable protection from the cold. Suitable for use in various climate zones.
Styrofoam
This material is used to insulate the house from the inside. Insulate a timber house from the outside with expanded polystyrene Not recommended. Cause? The material does not allow air to pass through well. The result is the appearance of condensation, wood rotting, and the development of mold fungi.
Cold bridges inevitably form between the base and polystyrene foam in places where there is a loose fit. Some of the heat will go to waste.
For internal thermal insulation using polystyrene foam, a slatted frame is first filled to provide an air gap. Plates up to 5 cm thick are secured with adhesive solutions or special fasteners.
Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the outside
Have you already decided on the type of insulation? Mineral wool or ecowool – it’s up to you. It remains to consider stages of insulation of external walls of a wooden house.
In the photo you see one of the insulation options and the order of work.
Vapor barrier
The purpose of this layer is ensure sufficient ventilation of the façade under the film. If the facade is made of round logs, you can fasten the material directly to the tree. The gaps will be sufficient.
First you need to fill the smooth surface with wooden slats. Thickness – 2.5 cm. Keep the distance between them – within a meter.
You will need aluminum foil, roofing felt, and a special vapor barrier film. Attach the vapor barrier layer to the slats. Cut a hole in the top and bottom for ventilation. Diameter – 2 cm.
Important: Where nails or staples are driven in, tape the surface to seal it.
Arrangement of a wooden frame
You will need a regular board. Width - no more than 10 cm, thickness - no more than 5 cm. Thinner ones are not suitable for this design.
Nail the boards vertically. Make sure that the distance between them is 1-2 cm less than the width of the insulation. This will prevent the appearance of cracks and voids.
Thermal insulation
If you choose ecowool, use a blowing machine to apply the cellulose mixture to the wall. Remember– no vapor barrier needed!
Place the mineral wool slabs in the prepared frame, ensuring a tight fit. Choose semi-rigid slabs with a density of 120 kg/cub.m. No additional fastening is required.
Waterproofing layer
To you you will need a special film with a vapor permeability of more than 1300g/sq.m. its task is to allow steam to pass through, but not to allow it to reach the insulation layer. Installation is carried out in the same way as when installing a vapor barrier layer.
All that remains is to put boards on the frame to dry out the condensation that has fallen on the waterproofing layer. Boards with a thickness of 2.3 to 3 cm and a width of 5 cm are suitable.
To protect against insects and rodents, install a metal mesh with small cells underneath. Pay special attention to arranging a protective layer when insulating a log house with mineral wool.
External cladding
What will your home be like after insulation? You can stuff wooden lining or eurolining from larch, oak or pine. Treat the boards, open them with varnish.
Consider the design of doors and windows. Insulation will increase the thickness of the walls to 25cm. You can move them to another place and install new wooden frames, trim, and window sills.
The second option is to give the house a stylish, modern look. You will need block hau, vinyl or metal siding. Work is carried out from the bottom up. Fasten the cladding with self-tapping screws or nails.
We bring to your attention a video about insulating a wooden house from the outside. What is the best way to insulate?
Prices for insulation
Insulation of private houses and cottages can be done independently. This option involves costs only for material.
Many owners turn to construction companies. If you don’t have the skills, time and desire to insulate your home, allocate some money to pay for the work of professionals. The average prices are as follows.
A full range of works on arrangement of thermal insulation: from 1080 to 4000 rub. per sq.m. The total cost depends on the chosen insulation and the method of installing the protective layer.
Insulation of a wooden house from the outside - a process that requires a balanced approach to all stages of work. Buy high-quality materials, listen to the advice of experts, follow the technology - and your house made of timber will be warm. The new decorative facade will create the mood.
Correctly performed insulation of a wooden house can significantly save on heating, improve the microclimate in the house, and also extend the service life of the log house. When the question arises about thermal insulation of the walls of a wooden house, the first and most important point is the choice of insulation method - from the inside or the outside. Most home owners choose external insulation, and this choice is absolutely correct - external insulation of a wooden house is more effective.
With internal insulation, not only does the usable area of the premises decrease, but the dew point also shifts inside the log house. Only the interior space is insulated, while the log house itself constantly experiences changes in humidity and temperature, freezes in winter and rots in summer. The greatest destruction of the log house occurs on the inside, covered with insulation.
External insulation protects not only the room, but also the log house itself from freezing. The dew point shifts outward, and condensation occurs outside the wooden structures, under the ventilated façade, where the moisture dries quickly.
Materials for insulating a wooden house
As insulation for wooden houses, mats made of stone or mineral wool are most in demand. It is not recommended to use polystyrene foam for insulating wooden structures, since it does not have vapor permeability and does not remove moisture vapor from the surface of the log house. Stone or mineral wool mats come in various thicknesses and densities. The denser the insulation, the easier it is to install and the longer it retains its performance characteristics. Soft and loose mats often slide down and fall apart, forming dust that is harmful to health. Therefore, you should not skimp on high-quality insulation. Other advantages of stone or mineral wool include its non-flammability and unpopularity with rodents, unlike polystyrene foam.
In addition to the insulation, two layers of film are required: one is waterproofing and protects the frame from moisture penetration. It is laid on a protected wooden surface. This film must be vapor permeable and remove moisture from the log house through the insulation into the external environment. The second is wind and water protection; it is mounted on top of the thermal insulation. The purpose of this layer is to protect the insulation from moisture coming from the external environment. Waterproofing mineral insulation is mandatory, since when wetted it loses its thermal insulation properties.
From the outside, the insulation is covered with any facing material with the obligatory arrangement of a ventilation gap. This cladding is called a ventilated facade. Thanks to air circulation between the cladding and the walls, the formation of fungus and mold is eliminated, moisture is successfully removed from the insulation, and all conditions are created for the long service life of the log house and the entire building.
Technology for insulating a wooden house from the outside
- The walls of a log or timber house are treated with an antiseptic in two layers, paying special attention to the lower crown and corners. The ends of the logs are impregnated with antiseptic especially carefully, since they are most susceptible to rotting. It is best to carry out processing in warm, dry weather. After treatment, the walls are dried for 1-2 days.
- A waterproofing film with a vapor-permeable coating is secured to the walls using staples and staples. Such a film has different side coatings: the glossy one should be facing the insulation, and the porous one, capable of absorbing and removing moisture from the log house, should be facing the wall. The joints of the film are overlapped and taped with special mounting tape. A vertical sheathing made of a bar is attached to the film; the thickness of the bar must correspond to the thickness of the insulation. The sheathing pitch is chosen 3-5 cm less than the width of the insulation mats. Layed flat, they will hold perfectly without additional fastening.
- Thermal insulation mats are placed on the film between the bars, slightly pressing them. If necessary, the mats are cut with a regular knife. If the mats are not hard enough and do not stick well inside the frame, you can perform temporary hemming by fixing them with slats. The mats are finally secured using anchor nails. If it is necessary to lay several layers of thermal insulation, the subsequent layer of mats is laid with offset seams so that the upper mats overlap the joints of the lower ones. All work on laying mineral wool mats must be carried out wearing protective gloves and a respirator.
- A waterproof membrane film is attached to the brackets on top of the insulation. The waterproof surface must face outward. The joints are overlapped and taped.
Installing a hydro-windproof membrane film over the insulation using a stapler
- A ventilated frame must be installed on top of the film. It is also made from bars, ensuring a distance between the insulation layer covered with wind protection and the decorative facade of at least 5 cm. The bars are attached to the lower frame with self-tapping screws, and if the walls are not level enough, then use perforated hangers for the profile, allowing you to adjust the distance to the frame. Under metal siding or corrugated sheeting, you can use a plasterboard profile instead of a block.
- The sheathing is fastened using the technology recommended by the manufacturer. For cladding, you can use vinyl siding, metal profiles, block house or imitation timber. When covering, make sure that there are no gaps through which moisture can penetrate into the facade.
An additional measure to protect a wooden house is insulation of the foundation and basement. It can be produced using or, as well as by spraying polyurethane foam. A ventilated facade or cladding with decorative stone or brick is also installed on top of the insulation layer.
– this is the placement of a thermal layer inside the wall frame. In some situations, it is necessary to reduce heat loss as much as possible by supplementing the internal insulation with external insulation. We will figure out how and with what to insulate a wooden house from the outside, evaluate the characteristics, features of operation and installation of different materials.
Specifics of insulating frame houses from the outside
In quickly erected buildings using Scandinavian or American technology, the role of heat insulator is assigned directly to wall panels. The insulation is mounted between the frame posts and covered with rough sheathing - wood-fiber panels, OSB boards, etc.
However, if the work is performed poorly or the thickness or density of the insulation is incorrectly selected, the house may not retain heat well. To reduce energy costs and improve the indoor microclimate in winter, additional insulation is required.
A set of requirements is put forward for a heat insulator for external walls:
- Low thermal conductivity. Among the insulation materials that can boast of this property are: polystyrene foam and mineral wool.
- Minimal water absorption. Despite the additional protection of the thermal insulation layer from water, the insulation, one way or another, will come into contact with water vapor. Therefore, it is necessary to choose a material with low hygroscopicity.
- Fire safety. It is optimal if the insulation has the ability to self-extinguish, does not contribute to the spread of fire and produces little smoke when burning.
- Light weight. Frames are erected on a lightweight foundation and are not designed for significant loads.
In addition, facade insulation for the exterior of a house must maintain linear dimensions well and not shrink. Additional requirements: environmental friendliness and affordable cost.
Choosing thermal insulation: characteristics and features of materials
The optimal insulation option for outdoor use in frame construction is basalt wool. The material is thermally efficient and fireproof, but quite expensive. If you are on a limited budget, polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam with fire retardants is suitable.
Video: insulating the facade using the “wet” method
Log houses are the warmest and most environmentally friendly. Wooden walls perfectly retain and accumulate heat and regulate humidity levels. On every corner we hear that a wooden wall with a thickness of only 240 mm has the same thermal conductivity as a brick wall with a thickness of 1 m. Impressive, right? But there are situations when you built or bought a new log house, lived in it, and with the onset of the first serious cold weather you realized that the house was cool and drafty. Then we seriously think about insulating the building, even at the expense of beauty. But there may also be more trivial situations: you bought an old wooden house, which is already quite “worn out” and requires serious insulation measures. So a serious question arises: how to insulate a log house, what materials can be used, and what absolutely cannot be done.
Why is it cold in a log house - a little theory
What problems do owners of log houses most often encounter when they complain that it is cold in the winter? Firstly, there are drafts in the rooms. Secondly, it blows on your legs. Thirdly, the house cools down quickly if you turn off the heating. Fourthly, the walls are too cold. And many accompanying nuances, from which the conclusion is drawn that the house urgently needs to be insulated, and it is imperative to start from the floor, since it is the coldest. Let's figure out what happens in the room when it is heated.
Imagine that we have a log house that we heat using some kind of heat source. What is involved in heat exchange: heat source, air, ceiling, walls and floor. How does this happen? Let's remember the school physics course. Heated by the heat source, the air rushes upward - to the ceiling. Resting against the surface of the ceiling, it spreads across it, giving off heat and cooling. As a result, we get a ceiling - the warmest surface in the room. Then the air flow reaches the walls and goes down along them. Since our walls are much colder than the ceiling, the air cools much faster and its speed increases. The air has already reached the floor, having accelerated considerably, and is rushing along it with such speed that the illusion of such a strong cold draft is created, as if there is no floor at all, and you are standing right on the snow.
If you place the heat source near the internal walls, as is usually done when heating with a fireplace or portable radiator, then the rate of heat transfer increases significantly. There is a constant draft in the room, it turns out that it is our own fault that the house is cold.
It’s not for nothing that there are rules that heating radiators should be located under the windows. The outer walls are initially the coldest, in contrast to the inner ones, which are completely inert. If you place the heat source near the outer wall, the air will rise up, then fall again onto the walls, but now not at the same speed and will not cool so quickly. After all, the internal walls are quite warm, so the air passing through them will not cool down too much. And as it descends along the outer walls, it will again rest against the heat source, where it will heat up and rise upward. As a result: the room warms up faster, the structures retain heat better, since it accumulates and is not wasted.
What needs to be checked to eliminate unnecessary heat loss:
- Ceiling. The very first outpost that should be checked for leaks, as up to 70% of the heat can escape through it. Be sure to insulate the attic or attic floor to trap heat inside the room.
- Walls. The second outpost is the outer walls and everything that is in them: windows, doors, etc. Improperly installed windows and doors are the bane of log homes. The lion's share of the heat can escape through them, without even having time to heat the room. Directly from the radiator and in the crack under/above the window. Plus, don’t forget to check whether the walls are thoroughly caulked; maybe cracks have already formed somewhere.
- Floor. The last thing that can be a source of cold is the floor. It should be checked for serviceability and insulated in the standard way. Also for the winter it is worth reducing the ventilation of the subfloor, blocking most of the air.
I would also like to note that in order to make the heating of a log house better, you can install “warm floors” in the house, in addition to the existing heating system. Then the warm air will be distributed more evenly throughout the room, due to which drafts near the floor will disappear and the house will cool down more slowly.
By the way, too thin walls can also cause cold in the house. For example, for a climate with cold, harsh winters but low humidity, walls with a thickness of 200 - 240 mm are sufficient. But for regions with wet winters, even with temperatures that do not drop below -20 ° C, it is advisable to use logs with a diameter of at least 400 mm, and preferably 480 mm. Such regions, for example, include Moscow and the Moscow region, St. Petersburg and the Leningrad region. Be sure to take this into account when developing a log house project, so that later it will not be excruciatingly painful.
What materials can be used to insulate a log house?
The standard procedure for insulating a log house includes insulating the ceiling or attic, caulking the walls and insulating window and door frames, as well as insulating the floor. If everything is done correctly, then no additional measures will be needed.
Considering that log houses are built with the goal of creating a home from natural, environmentally friendly materials, it would be foolish to use polystyrene foam for insulation. Then the whole meaning is lost.
For insulating the attic log house can be used sawdust, ecowool(cellulose wool), seaweed, straw. In extreme cases, you can insulate mineral wool.
Caulk the walls Produced using only natural materials: moss, oakum, hemp, jute, flax-based tape insulation And jute. The main requirement for the material is that it must have properties similar to wood.
For insulation of wooden floors on joists you can use natural ones backfill materials, or maybe mineral wool in rolls. And here concrete floor will require denser material, suitable expanded polystyrene, extruded polystyrene foam, cork And basalt wool in slabs with a density of more than 160 kg/m3.
If, after all the standard procedures, the house is cold, maybe because the thickness of the logs was chosen incorrectly, maybe the house is just very old, or maybe the heating was calculated incorrectly, and you decided that without such a procedure as insulating the walls of a log house , you can’t do it, then you should know some nuances.
The material that can be used to insulate log walls must have the following properties:
- Be vapor permeable on a par with wood or to a greater extent if it is installed outside the building.
- Be moisture resistant so as not to accumulate moisture, which can lead to rotting of the wood.
- Be fireproof and resistant to pathogenic fungi.
- Easy to pass air.
- Have a structure loose enough to fit snugly against a rounded log wall and leave no gaps.
Considering all of the above, to insulate a log house from the outside you can use:
- Ecowool.
- Mineral wool (although it is not natural, it is easy to install and publicly available).
- Sawdust or sawdust granules (fill material).
- Expanded clay (fill material).
Wood is an unusual building material. It not only “breathes”, but is also a kind of air recuperator. And if someone assures you that the vapor permeability of wood across the fibers is slightly greater than that of reinforced concrete, know that you can object. Entering the thickness of the wood across the fibers, the air is then distributed along the fibers and exits through the end. In other words, the tree “breathes” at the ends.
Precisely because wooden walls are “living”, the following materials cannot be used:
- Styrofoam.
- Extruded polystyrene foam.
- Polyurethane foam.
- Polyurethane foam for sealing cracks.
- Sealants.
The use of vapor-proof materials will lead to the wood rotting or, if you protect it from the inside with a vapor-proof film, you will turn a wooden house into a thermos. In this case, the whole point of building a house from a log will be lost. But it’s still up to you to choose.
How to insulate a log house from the outside
As we have already found out, it is necessary to insulate the walls of a log house only when all other insulation measures have not brought the desired result.
If you are interested in the question of how to properly insulate a log house from the outside or inside, then here is a definite answer - outside. This is due to the properties of wood to breathe, accumulate moisture and release it. If the insulation is located externally, air and moisture will freely escape from the wood and erode.
You can start insulating only a year to a year and a half after the completion of construction, when the log house has settled.
Caulking log walls
Even if you have already made the final decision to insulate the house, the first step is to thoroughly caulk it. We inspect all walls for visible cracks. Then, in calm weather, we walk around the house with a candle, holding it close to the walls. If the flame leans towards the wall, then there is a gap in this place from which it blows in winter.
One of the most effective ways to find cracks in logs is in winter, when the house is heated, you need to go around and inspect all the walls. If you notice frost, it is sometimes called a “bunny”, it means that heat is leaking from the room in this place.
Caulking should be done in dry, warm weather, using tow, jute, hemp or roll insulation. We insert the material into the cracks between the crowns and push it with a special tool - a caulk.
Installation of a ventilated facade
Insulation of a log house from the outside is carried out by installing a ventilated facade. This design allows the wooden wall to “breathe” and release moisture.
First, we treat the walls with an antiseptic and fire retardant to protect the wood from fire and mold. We fill the sheathing on top of the walls, which will hold the insulation. For this we use timber with a cross section of 50 mm. We stuff it vertically in increments equal to the width of the insulation boards minus 2 - 3 cm.
As insulation we will use mineral wool in slabs with a density of 35 - 50 kg/m3, 50 mm thick.
Important! When installing insulation on a log wall, we encounter some inconvenience. The fact is that the wall is uneven, laying the insulation closely without gaps is almost impossible. Therefore, we insert insulation into the gaps (openings) between the wall and the sheathing beams. To do this, you can use “Basaltin” in rolls or inter-crown insulation - jute, flax batting.
We insert mineral wool slabs between the sheathing, pushing them tightly into the opening. We do this from the bottom up.
We install a windproof waterproofing superdiffusion membrane on top of the insulation. It must have a vapor permeability of at least 1400 g/m2 per day or higher.
Important! Correctly selected wind protection for the ventilated facade of a log wall is almost the most important thing in insulation. This membrane will not allow moisture and wind to pass through from the outside into the thickness of the insulation and walls, but at the same time it will release moisture and air from the inside to the outside, thus giving the walls the opportunity to “breathe.”
On top of the windbreak we fill the sheathing with 50 mm beams. We install siding on the sheathing. This can be vinyl siding that imitates wood, or you can use a house block, then the wall will have the same log profile as the real one.
A ventilation gap is formed between the membrane and the facade over the entire thickness of the sheathing (50 mm). It is necessary to arrange vents at the bottom and at the top so that air can circulate freely.
How to insulate a log house from the inside
The option of insulating the house inside must be considered before constructing a ventilated façade. Perhaps standard insulation measures will be enough, and you won’t have to spoil the appearance of the walls.
Insulation of a log house from the inside includes the following procedures: insulation of the floor, ceiling, roof and walls. Moreover, experts are categorically against installing insulation inside the walls, since in this case the wood will become damp and rot.
Insulation of ceilings, roofs
The first step, as soon as we discovered that the house is cold, is to insulate the ceiling and roof.
If the house is one-story with an attic, then we lay a waterproofing film on the attic floor, and pour a layer of insulation on top with a layer of 150 to 250 mm. It can be ecowool, sawdust, seaweed or ordinary mineral or glass wool in rolls. There is no need to cover the insulation. You can lay boards on top for ease of movement around the attic, but there is no need to install a floor.
If the house has an attic floor instead of an attic, then it is necessary to insulate both the floor between the floors and the roof slope. It is enough to lay 50 - 100 mm of insulation (any kind) into the ceiling. If the attic floor is wooden, then add insulation between the joists. If the floor is concrete, then we use basalt wool in slabs or, as a last resort, polystyrene foam. To insulate the roof slope directly under the roof, we lay a waterproofing film, then lay insulation (mineral wool) in a layer of 150 - 200 mm. We lay a vapor-proof membrane on top of the insulation so that the material does not become saturated with moisture from the room. We install sheathing and trim for the attic.
The above procedures should be enough to make the house warmer.
Insulating the walls of a log house
Let's move on to the walls. Since it is impossible to install insulation inside log walls, what can we do: thoroughly caulk the inside, insulate all window and door openings.
To insulate openings, we use rolled inter-crown insulation or, as a last resort, mineral wool, but under no circumstances do we blow out the cracks with polyurethane foam, it will quickly become unusable, since the walls of a log house are constantly in motion, and foam is a non-plastic material.
To decorate the walls of a log house from the inside, you can upholster them with wooden paneling. In this case, insulation cannot be installed between the wall and the finish. The house will become a little warmer due to the fact that the wall will have a slightly greater thickness, as well as air gaps on the side of the heated room between the flat paneling and the curved surface of the log walls.
Insulation of the floor of a log house
In order for the floor in a wooden house to be warm, it must be equipped following all the technology for laying the floor on the ground. Backfilling, waterproofing and insulation are required. If the floor is wooden, we lay insulation between the joists in a layer of 100 - 150 mm. Above is the rough and finishing floor.
If the floor is concrete, then between the layer of “lean” concrete and the main layer we lay polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam in slabs 50 - 80 mm thick.
Before insulating a log house with a ventilated facade, install a “warm floor” system in the house. Perhaps this will be more than enough to ensure a comfortable stay. Then you won’t have to sew up the beautiful log walls, because such houses are built because of their primitive beauty. What's the point if you cover the walls with siding?
Insulating a log house is a whole complex of measures. If everything is done correctly, start with the ceiling and roof, then thoroughly caulk the walls, insulate the windows and doors, and the floor, there will be no need to sheathe the outside of the house. If this does not help, there is another way to maintain heat in a log house, which is not described here, - to build a glass veranda on the coldest side of the house, thereby expanding the area and forming an air barrier.