How can you insulate a wooden house inside. How to properly insulate a wooden house from the inside: the choice of material and technology, stages of work. Tools and materials for work

Insulation of walls from the inside in wooden houses makes them more comfortable and economical. In addition, the good performance of the walls for heating technology allows you to save on heating. The question should be taken seriously, since the result will completely depend on the chosen material and compliance with the technology.

Insulation from the inside

Thermal insulation of the house from the inside avoids the need for external finishing. With this approach, it is possible to preserve the attractive appearance of a building made of timber or rounded logs. But the technology has a number of drawbacks worth preparing for:

the interior is protected from the harmful effects of cold, but not the walls;
the useful area of the building is reduced;
there are certain restrictions on the materials used.

What insulation to choose

What is the best way to insulate a house? It is worth starting from the material of the walls. The tree has gained well-deserved popularity due to the fact that it is able to "breathe". Wood allows air to pass through well, while providing excellent ventilation in the premises.

To fully preserve the beneficial properties when working from the inside with your own hands, you need to use materials that are similar in breathability to wood. To insulate the house, it is better to abandon such heat insulators as:

Styrofoam;
extruded polystyrene foam (or simply "Penoplex");
penoizol.

They are highly airtight, so they can create a greenhouse effect in a building. This will require the device of expensive forced ventilation or the installation of air conditioners.

The best material for thermal insulation is mineral wool.

Its advantages include:

high efficiency;
the ability to pass air without interfering with natural ventilation;
safety for human health and the environment;
incombustibility;
ease of installation;
availability;
low cost.

But when using cotton wool, it is worth remembering its shortcomings. The material absorbs moisture well, while ceasing to perform its main function. To avoid getting wet, you should also purchase vapor barrier and windproofing.

Layer scheme for insulation with mineral wool

There are several varieties of mineral wool. The best option would be basalt (stone) insulation in slabs. You can also choose glass wool, which comes in the form of rolled mats. The second option can cause installation difficulties. The material is severely pricked, and particles entering the lungs or on the skin cause itching. To avoid unpleasant consequences, all work with glass wool is performed in special clothing and masks.

The most undesirable, but inexpensive option will be slag wool. But, when insulating your house, it is better not to save. Cotton wool is made from industrial waste. Manufacturers are responsible for safety, but it is not always possible to check which slags are used to make the insulation. You can easily come across low-quality material or a fake, with which the insulation of a wooden house from the inside will be dangerous to health and life.

Preparatory stage

Before insulating a wooden house from the inside, you will need to prepare the walls. This is especially true if you need to insulate an old wooden house. In this case, the material that was used for caulking has time to cake. The main task at this stage will be to eliminate cracks - sources of drafts, cold and moisture.

Work begins with cleaning the base. You will need to remove dust and dirt that have accumulated on the walls. Before insulating an old house, it is worth checking the strength of the wood. It should not be damaged by various pests. Otherwise, it is better to strengthen the walls.

To prevent problems with insects and microorganisms in the future, the surface is treated with antiseptic compounds. You can also perform treatment with fire retardants, they increase the resistance of the material to fire.

Antiseptic treatment will protect wood from decay

Wood shrinks over time. Because of this, cracks may appear in the walls. Before starting work on insulation, it is worth doing. Currently, jute is most often used for these purposes. For large crevices, it is wise to purchase a tape tow. The material is hammered between logs or a bar using a chisel.

Caulking will protect the walls from blowing and will become an additional heat insulator

It is necessary to carry out the work until the material ceases to creep into the space and begins to hang out. High-quality caulk is a guarantee of a warm home.

Wind-waterproofing of walls

Mineral wool is afraid of moisture. Before insulating the walls in a wooden house, you should take care of the protection of the insulation. On the outside of the mineral wool, a layer of wind-waterproofing is fixed. It prevents weathering and penetration of atmospheric moisture. There are several types of suitable materials, but a vapor diffusion membrane is the best option.

This modern material reliably protects against water, but does not impede the movement of air and steam. This allows you to maintain the ability of the walls to breathe, as well as ensure the removal of moisture from the insulation.

The waterproofing is attached to the walls with a construction stapler. The joints of the canvases are made with an overlap of at least 10 cm and are glued with tape or special tape.

Insulation installation

Internal wall insulation is carried out along the frame. It can be made of wood from a metal profile. The easiest way to insulate a building made of wood is to use wood for the frame as well. It is important to correctly select the geometric dimensions of the frame:

The step of the racks is selected taking into account the width of the insulation. It should be about 2 cm smaller than the width of the mats or slabs. This is necessary for a snug fit of the material. For mineral wool, such a step of the racks is most often used so that a distance of 58 cm remains in the light between them.
The overhang of the frame must take into account the thickness of the insulation and the required ventilation gap. It is needed to remove condensation from the surface and allows you to keep the material dry. The thickness of the ventilation gap is usually taken equal to 3-5 cm.

Installation of slabs in the walls should be carried out with an interference fit - then it will not begin to slip over time

Mineral wool is laid between the racks of the crate. With the correct choice of the step of the latter, the heat insulator will be held by friction. For additional fastening, you can use special plastic dowels, usually they are sold with insulation.

Vapor barrier

How to properly insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside? It is important not only to choose the right insulation, but also to protect it from all types of moisture. Indoors are characterized by a fairly high humidity, water in the form of steam can easily reach the mineral wool and reduce its effectiveness.

Vapor barrier is a mandatory layer when using mineral wool

Internal wall insulation is mandatory. It is mounted on top of the insulation. A good option for protection is vapor barrier membranes.

They are more expensive than films, but they do not impede the movement of air through the walls. Membranes will become a more modern and efficient option.
Thermal insulation of a wooden wall from the inside with their help is carried out according to the manufacturer's instructions. The fastening method may differ for different types.

Finishing

Insulation of the walls of a wooden house is completed with a fine finish. For these purposes, you can apply a variety of options. But when choosing a material, it is worth remembering about ventilation. The finishing layer must not impede the movement of air, otherwise all the previous choice of materials is useless.

Lining for interior cladding - a simple, inexpensive and environmentally friendly option

Insulation thickness

Insulation of walls in wooden houses from the inside should begin with calculating the thickness of the heat insulator. Only a professional can perform detailed calculations. For self-construction, you can use special programs. For example, the Teremok program. It is quite simple and freely available. There is both an online version and a PC application.

On average, mineral wool with a thickness of 80-100 mm is used for walls. But it all depends on the climatic region.
Before insulating your own wooden house from the inside, you should carefully study the information on the topic.

And do not forget that from the point of view of heating technology, it is more correct.

Competent performance of work is the key to durability and comfort.

Construction science recommends to do external insulation of buildings, since in this case the dew point is located outside the room in the insulation or in the outer layer of the walls. With such insulation, moisture will not condense on the walls in rooms.

But there are still cases when insulation of a wooden house from the inside- is the only correct solution. For example, if the owner of the house wants to preserve the beautiful appearance characteristic of houses made of rounded logs, or the laws prescribe to preserve the historical appearance of the building.

Modern building science allows you to make internal insulation of wooden houses, but for this you should use the right materials and follow the technology.

Preparatory work

All work on the construction and arrangement of residential buildings must be preceded by engineering calculations... This also applies to the internal insulation of a wooden house.

The heat engineering calculation should show how effective the insulation will be and, in general, is there a possibility of internal insulation? The insulation will always fulfill its function, but the position of the dew point is of decisive importance.

The dew point should never be on the interior walls. and even more so in insulation and calculations should show this. If the dew point is inside, then the room will be warm, but in the cold season it is constantly damp. And from the damp porous insulation gets wet, the walls of houses rot, mold and various unwanted animals are massively divorced.

Only if the dew point is not inside the room, even in the coldest period, can you confidently produce internal insulation. True, for this you will have to sacrifice a part of the internal volume of the house, but without this - nothing!

Materials used for internal insulation

Materials that are used in the internal insulation of the house, must meet certain requirements:

First, they must have low thermal conductivity in order to fulfill their main function - insulation.
Secondly, these materials must meet the fire safety requirements for the premises.
Third, the material, alone or in combination with the mounting structure, must provide the required mechanical strength.
And, finally, all materials used indoors must be environmentally friendly and not emit any chemicals into the ambient air that are bad for the health of living beings.

Warming methods

Ways of insulating a wooden house directly depend on the materials used for this. Several types of them are used in modern construction:

Mineral basalt wool slabs- are used most often. This material does not burn, it is environmentally friendly, its use provides excellent heat and sound insulation. Low mechanical strength requires the construction of the enclosing structure, and high hygroscopicity requires covering the mineral wool with special vapor barrier films.
Expanded polystyrene plates (polystyrene), also found application in internal insulation. It is not recommended to use them, as they can release substances containing styrene into the air. When burning, pressless expanded polystyrene releases deadly substances: hydrogen cyanide and toluene diisocyanate. Therefore, you can use only extruded polystyrene foam, flammability class - G1. Insulation with expanded polystyrene also requires a building envelope.
Glass wool- a widely used material for insulation. It has a lower price than basalt wool, however, it also has a higher thermal conductivity. To insulate the interior with glass wool, only a material specially designed for this purpose should be used, which must additionally be covered with films. Small particles of glass wool are very harmful to health, therefore, installation is carried out only in protective equipment for the skin and respiratory organs. Requires enclosing structures.
Izoplat- modern insulation, which consists of a layer of pressed flax fiber and fiberboard with a thickness of 12 to 25 mm. High mechanical strength makes it possible not to make powerful enclosing structures, and the environmental friendliness of this material allows it to be used indoors. Izoplat's thermal conductivity indicators are worse, and the price is much higher than that of other heaters.
Insulation with polyurethane foam sprayed onto the surface is a modern excellent method that requires special equipment. Fencing structures are needed for such insulation.

In this video you can watch how a wooden house is insulated from the inside with polyurethane foam.

Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the inside

Sealing joints

A wooden house, even an impeccably built one, lasts quite a long time. In addition to precipitation, when the heating is turned on, the wood is intensively drying out in the house, which affects the geometric dimensions of the log or laminated veneer lumber. Initially, even well-laid logs or beams can form enlarged gaps at their joints, through which heat will be mercilessly carried out into the atmosphere.

Therefore, the first operation to insulate a house is to seal the joints.

Fire bio-protection of a tree

When insulated, the inner part of the walls will be hidden by a layer of insulation, and for a fairly long time. That is why the tree must be treated with a good fire-retardant composition, which for a long time excludes the development of living creatures and makes it difficult for fire... It is not worth saving on this, you need to choose only good formulations that are guaranteed to provide the necessary protection.

When processing walls with fire-retardant compounds, it should be taken into account that all enclosing structures, if they are wooden, must also be processed, since they will also be hidden in the insulation structure.

Heat insulation and ventilation

Why didn't you think too much about the ventilation of houses before? Yes, because ventilation was carried out in a natural way - through leaks in wall and window structures.

Modern building materials and technologies exclude any leaks and gaps through which air can pass, but this does not mean that air should not circulate in the room. In modern houses, a ventilation system is designed, which should supply fresh air to the room and remove waste.

Good internal thermal insulation must always be accompanied by ventilation. Only then will the microclimate in the room be normal. But ventilation is also required by the thermal insulation itself, which has a soft and porous structure, for example, mineral wool. Therefore, in the gap between the wall and the thermal insulation layer, there must be an air gap through which air must circulate freely, removing excess moisture, comparing the air humidity in the entire room.

Such gaps are very easy to implement in practice. A wooden lath about 2.5 cm thick is attached to the walls with a certain gap, and a vapor barrier membrane is already attached to it. It turns out that there is an air gap between the wall and the insulation, which prevents the increased humidity of the inner walls and insulation.

If the walls of the house are built from cylindrical logs, then the ventilation gaps are obtained in a natural way, and if from glued beams, then the device of the ventilation gap is highly desirable.

Vapor barrier

If used as a heater basalt wool, glass wool, non-pressed polystyrene foam, then vapor barrier must be done. For this, a vapor barrier film is attached to the ventilation crate using a construction stapler. The foil must be stretched enough so that there is a ventilation gap between it and the wall. the joining of two vapor barrier panels is done with an overlap of at least 10 cm using tape and a stapler.

If the inner space of the house will be insulated with extruded polystyrene foam, then a vapor barrier is not needed. This material already has the necessary waterproofing qualities and will be a reliable barrier to moisture.

Installation of the enclosing structure

With all methods of insulating the internal walls of a wooden house, except for Isoplat plates, the construction of a building envelope is required. Most often it is made from a wooden square bar in cross-section with a size of 50 mm. The installation step of the bar is determined by the width of the insulation. If mineral wool insulation is used, then the distance between adjacent bars should be 10 mm less than the width of the insulation - for a snug fit. If extruded polystyrene foam is used, then the distance should be exactly the width of the insulation boards.

Before installation it is necessary to treat all the bars with a fire retardant compound. Installation is carried out with screws of the required length directly to the wooden walls. If a crate was used for the ventilation gap, then the bars are attached to the previously mounted slats. In this case, it is better to wrap the screws in the holes pre-drilled with a thin drill. This will prevent possible cracking of the wood.

Sometimes plasterboard profiles are used as the enclosing structure, which are attached to the walls with straight suspensions. This should only be done when drywall will be used as a finishing, and in all other cases it is better to use a wooden block. The thermal conductivity of wood is much lower than that of metal.

When insulating the ceiling, the enclosing structure is made similarly to the wall one. When insulating the floor, the wooden logs themselves, on which the floor covering will be attached, act as a building envelope.

Insulation installation

Insulation is placed in the space between the enclosing bars. If a sheet insulation, then installation on the walls is carried out from bottom to top, and roll, on the contrary, from top to bottom.

Mineral wool slabs are stacked against the backdrop, which makes it possible for them to hold on securely. However, it is still necessary to additionally strengthen the foam or mineral wool using special dowels with a wide head, one dowel per slab.

Roll insulation fixed from above with one dowel, rolled down and fixed with dowels at intervals of 1 meter. First, whole slabs or rolls are laid, and the remaining space where trimming is required is filled with insulation last.

Ceiling insulation, in the case of a sloped roof, rolls up from the bottom and can be fixed with dowels or with a cord. To do this, small carnations are stuffed onto neighboring bars with an interval of 15 cm, and then, after laying the insulation between the beams, a cord is pulled in a zigzag manner, which will reliably hold the mineral wool.

If extruded polystyrene foam is used for insulation, then all possible gaps at the joints can be filled with polyurethane foam. Before applying the foam, the surfaces are moistened, and after it dries, all excess is trimmed with a knife.

Final waterproofing

After installing the insulation, if the insulation was made with porous materials capable of absorbing water, then it is necessary to cover the insulation with a layer of waterproofing, but with a special one - vapor-permeable membrane, which is, on the one hand, a reliable barrier to water, and on the other hand, the membrane freely releases water vapor from the insulation. Even if water has condensed in the insulation, it will come out in the form of steam until the humidity of the insulation becomes equal to the humidity in the room.

The vapor-permeable film has two sides: one smooth and the other rough, through which water vapor escapes. With a rough side, such a film is laid to the insulation and fixed with a stapler to the enclosing structure. Joints with an overlap of 10 cm are glued with tape and fixed with a stapler. For waterproof insulation, a vapor-permeable membrane is not needed.

The final stage of insulation there will be an installation of the topcoat, which can be wooden lining, drywall, plywood, OSB boards and others.

conclusions

Insulation of walls inside a wooden house is extremely rare and very often a necessary measure.
Before installing the internal thermal insulation, it is necessary to carry out thermal calculations showing the position of the dew point during the cold period. Precise dew should not be on the inner walls and in the insulation.
As a heater, you should choose only environmentally friendly from well-known manufacturers.
Porous insulation must be covered with waterproofing films from the side of the wall and a vapor-permeable membrane from the side of the room.

In order to keep the house warm and cozy, it is necessary to add a thermal insulation layer to the outer walls. Particular attention is paid to buildings that have been in operation for a long time and have experienced many negative influences. Therefore, many owners are interested in the issue of insulating an old wooden house.

A house made of wood has the ability to let vapors outside, so that it is always comfortable to be in the premises. If you choose the wrong material for insulation, you can completely close the waste of moisture, which will lead to its accumulation in the walls of the building. This will lead to premature destruction of the entire structure.

Mineral wool

Experts say that there is no better insulation for an old wooden house. And indeed it is. has the following properties:

Keeps warm well.
Isolates indoor spaces from extraneous sounds from the environment.
Light weight helps to do everything quickly and efficiently.
The structure of the material allows you to hide all the irregularities.
Fire and environmental safety.
Rodents are not used to create nests.

But there are also a number of negative points:

protection from moisture is necessary, because mineral wool is torn with a vapor barrier membrane, on the one hand, and a windproof film, on the other;
requires mechanical fixation.

But it is easy to cope with such shortcomings, therefore this option is suitable for an old house and or a new building.

Styrofoam

Insulation from the class available. Therefore, it is in demand among all construction companies and private developers. In addition to this positive point, there are a number of others:

Good thermal insulation properties.
Soundproofed.
Does not absorb moisture.
Withstands light mechanical stress.

But a small set of disadvantages makes polystyrene unsuitable for insulating a country house from a log house:

lack of steam permeability;
rapid destruction under the influence of ultraviolet radiation;
rodents and insects love to create their homes in this material;
the foam is highly flammable, and then smolders with the release of corrosive substances.

The tree burns well anyway, and if the finish is such that it will be life-threatening to be in such a house.

Penoplex (polystyrene)

This material is closely related to foam. But the manufacturers slightly improved the properties of the insulation, due to which the cost also increased. What are the characteristics of penoplex?

Improved thermal insulation properties. If you need 10 cm thick foam to insulate a house, you can replace 5 cm with foam.
Withstands heavy mechanical stress.
Does not absorb moisture at all.
There are also soundproofing properties.
Penoplex is produced with the addition of fire retardants, substances that prevent the material from igniting when exposed to fire. Therefore, compared to polystyrene, penoplex is safer.

It is sometimes used as thermal insulation for wooden buildings. But it is only suitable for a plinth or foundation. This is due to the lack of steam capacity. As a result, condensation will form on the walls, which means it will contribute to the development of mold and mildew.

What is the best way to insulate?

A house with a long service life requires not only insulation of the facade, but also all structural elements as a whole. Such actions will help to more effectively retain heat inside the house. Therefore, we will consider all the elements separately:

Wall insulation

It is better to insulate the walls from the outside. This shifts the dew point towards the environment, which allows it to be removed much faster from the base. If you insulate the walls from the inside, then you can cause a completely opposite result. In this case, the walls will still freeze through.

For wall insulation we choose hard mineral wool mats. If you have the material capabilities, you can take the foil version. A layer of foil will bounce heat away from the walls. Before installing the insulation, be sure to close all the cracks.

In this case, we use a tourniquet, dry moss or tow. With this material we tightly seal the space between the crowns or cracks that may form on the logs.

Ceiling

There are two ways to insulate the ceiling:

from the side of the room;
from the side of the attic.

Both the first and second methods are effective. More rigid materials are laid on the ceiling. If there is an attic under the roof, then it is better to resort to insulation from the side of the rooms. Then a structure is created from beams, between which a sheet of insulation is placed. Don't forget about vapor barrier membranes.

When there is an attic under the roof, you can use mineral wool, and even foam. A tougher material is necessarily laid on top of the insulation. It can be chipboard plates, which will protect the insulation from pushing through.

There is an option when bulk insulation is used, for example, sawdust, gravel. But a lot of such materials are needed, which can be even more expensive than using modern heaters.

Floor

The choice of technology for warming a dilapidated house depends on whether there is a basement or not. If there is a basement, then first they insulate it. You may not need to further isolate the floor after that.

But if such a need has already been determined, then the following options are chosen:

Underfloor heating installation (electric heating). Not always suitable for old wooden structures, since it requires reliable electrical wiring.
The use of thermal insulation materials. They choose only hard options, but they definitely make a plank floor or cover it with chipboard or OSB plates, and then decorate with the selected floor material.

It is in an old wooden house that large heat losses occur due to dilapidated floors. Therefore, do not neglect the possibility of insulating floors. More precisely, start insulating the house from the floors.

How to insulate an old wooden house with your own hands?

The tree must be specially treated before proceeding with any outdoor work. Especially if the structure is closed from the eyes of the owner. Therefore, carefully and carefully adhere to the insulation technology, if you do everything yourself.

And if you have trusted the masters, then do not forget to control the brigade. It often happens that employees want to get the job done earlier and do a little hack. This can lead to premature failure of the structure.

Surface preparation

First, let's prepare the base:

Remove all dirt and stains, insects or fungus.
Remove old decorative coating.
Remove hinged structures that will interfere with all work.
Close all cracks.
Cover the wooden structure with protective compounds. These are antiseptic impregnations or mastics and moisture-repellent compounds. Which will significantly extend the life of the base.

If the packaging says that it is desirable to make several layers, then it is better to do as the manufacturer recommends. If you save at this stage, then you can regret it later.

Laying a vapor barrier layer

After the impregnation is completely dry, they begin to lay the membranes. This layer will protect the walls from moisture and allow vapors to pass through the insulation and go outside without hindrance.

start laying from the bottom of the wall in vertical stripes;
each subsequent strip finds, on the previous one, by 10-15 cm;
the joints are fixed with tape;
the membrane itself is fixed with a construction stick.

Installation of the lathing

For the frame, wooden bars or metal profiles are used. If a wooden frame is chosen, then its parts also require special processing in order to last as long as the decorative layer. In addition, the bars will not be able to hide the unevenness of the walls, which means that you will have to put pegs or cut in some places.

With metal, everything is much simpler - we take it and install it. Special retractable brackets will easily hide all the flaws. But such a construction will cost a little more than a wooden one.

The method of installing the frame depends on whether the insulation will be used or not, as well as on what kind of decorative material it was decided to install on the facade.

The rough plan is as follows:

first we do the markup. The step between the elements is equal to the width of the insulation;
screw on the elements;
we check how evenly the parts are installed using the building level.

Installing a heat insulator

A material that acts as a heat insulator is placed between the elements of the sheathing. The mats are laid tightly. At the same time, make sure that no gaps are formed. Mineral wool should not bristle.

If such flaws appear, then they will later become cold bridges, which partially or completely neutralizes the insulation work. Therefore, the material should lie tightly, but evenly.

Laying the windscreen

It is customary to lay a windproof membrane on top of the insulation. This material will protect the mineral wool from the penetration of atmospheric moisture under the finish. The installation principle is the same as for vapor barrier foil:

We start work from the bottom.
Making vertical stripes.
We put in an overlap of 105-15 cm.
We glue the joints with tape.
The membrane is fixed with a stapler to the crate.

Here it is appropriate to use more dowels-fungi. This mechanical fastener will additionally fix the insulation and the membrane.

Installation of battens for fastening finishing materials from the outside

The additional lathing also creates a ventilation gap that allows the removal of steam escaping from the interior. The size of the gap can vary from 3 to 8 mm. It all depends on the thickness of the insulation material and the region in which the house is located.

Exterior wall decoration

As a finishing material for a wooden house, you can choose any known option. It is important to take into account the state of the structure, that is, the strength of the structure. If the houses are too old, do not choose heavy materials, as the structure may not withstand the load and collapse.

fully follow the installation instructions provided by the manufacturer;
fix the details to the elements of the lathing;
choose dry weather;
insulate a wooden house only in the warm season.

Possible problems with insulation

Before insulating an old wooden house, be sure to check how strong the structure is. If necessary, walls and foundations need to be strengthened. For those who have never been involved in such a business, it is better to take care of the construction team, and not start experiments.

And those who nevertheless decided to do everything on their own should strictly adhere to the instructions and not lose sight of anything. It is important to properly prepare the base, choose insulation and finishing.

Insulating a wooden house from the inside is advisable, unless the owner wants to spoil the natural beauty of the natural material from the outside.

It is a pity to cover a log cabin or a facade made of a bar with another finishing material, and in this case, you have to insulate the walls from the inside.

Internal work includes insulation of walls, floors, ceilings, taking into account the number of storeys and the attic, and the roof.

Only environmentally friendly materials are suitable for insulating a house from the inside in order to keep the microclimate of the premises healthy. Therefore, there is no foam in the list of recommended heaters.

It is allowed to use safer penofol, as well as a universal material for insulating any buildings and structures - mineral wool.

The advantages of insulating a wooden house from the inside

The main advantage has already been mentioned above.

This is an opportunity to leave the facade of the house in its natural form. In addition, the floors inside the house can be insulated, which is very important for maintaining a healthy indoor climate.

Why is it impossible to insulate a wooden house from the inside?

Of course, you can do this, but external insulation has a number of advantages over internal insulation.

Experts advise using this method of insulation in isolated cases when external insulation is really impossible.

This is explained by a number of disadvantages, which should be mentioned in more detail.

The main disadvantage of internal thermal insulation in a wooden house is the dew point displacement deeper into the wall. This will further lead to the formation of mold and wood decay there.

Among other disadvantages, the following are important:

lack of natural ventilation of the walls;
violation of the microclimate in the premises;
reduction of the usable area of the house.

In addition, none of the heaters, except for jute and felt, can be considered 100% environmentally friendly.

Therefore, it is better to insulate the house from the outside. But if this is not possible, you must choose the materials that are most suitable for internal insulation.

How can you insulate a wooden house from the inside?

Warm seam

Special sealant for log cabins. It is used indoors to insulate the seams between logs on the facade and ceiling.

Thermal insulation of walls from the inside of a wooden house in various ways

"Warm seam" for insulation inside a wooden house

To maintain complete environmental friendliness, you can replace the sealants with jute, felt or linen tape and seal the seams with them.

The cost of caulking the seams inside the house is from 120 to 250 rubles per running meter.

This is a very affordable price even for families on a small budget. Therefore, it is recommended to invite specialists to insulate the log house, only they can guarantee the high quality of work.

Mineral wool

Universal insulation, which is often used outside. Affordable cost and high thermal insulation performance make this material the most popular among developers.

The insulation technology is the same for walls and ceilings.

Positive properties of mineral wool:

high environmental friendliness, especially in modern materials, where formaldehyde is replaced with safer components;
affordable cost - the material is considered the cheapest option for insulation inside a wooden house;
good thermal insulation and noise insulation performance;
incombustibility;
durability - the material does not rot, is not susceptible to fungal diseases;
good indicators of vapor permeability, which, by the way, is both an advantage and a disadvantage.

Negative properties include:

the same vapor permeability, due to which a microclimate unfavorable for human lungs can be created inside the room;
shrinkage when wet;
the need to sheathe the walls with facing material (create a false wall).

Features of mineral wool insulation of walls and ceilings of a wooden house

Unlike external insulation, inside the material is glued directly to the wall, then it is sheathed with vapor barrier.

It is best to use a special vapor barrier that allows air from the room to pass outside.

This will create additional natural ventilation for the insulation. Even if it gets wet, the cotton wool can dry out due to the permeability properties of the vapor barrier.

A crate, a bar or a metal profile is installed on the vapor barrier (you can also under it), on which the facing material, drywall, board, lining, imitation of a bar, and so on are already attached.

Expanded polystyrene

Polymeric material based on foam, but without chemically harmful components.

Suitable for insulation inside a wooden house.

In the photo - extruded foam polystyrene "Penoplex"

The advantages include good thermal insulation properties, low weight, durability and moisture resistance.

When choosing this material, you may come across such concepts as expanded and extruded polystyrene foam.

In fact, this is the same material, the only difference is in the methods of its manufacture.

The main features of insulation with expanded polystyrene is the need for careful leveling of the surface and sealing the seams between the sheets. Old boards must be cleaned of irregularities and roughness, and for a log house from a bar, the material is not suitable at all.

The joints between the sheets of material are foamed and cleaned after the foam dries.

Just like mineral wool, expanded polystyrene is suitable for insulating not only walls, but also ceilings.

Polyurethane foam

The material of the future, which is applied in liquid form with a special apparatus. For insulation with polyurethane foam, it is necessary to mount a frame, which is filled with foam under pressure. It quickly hardens and forms a monolithic protective layer of insulation.

Spraying polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam will reliably protect the house not only from cold and external noise, but will also provide additional guarantees of safety in case of fires.

The disadvantages include the complexity of finishing work after insulation with this material.

It needs to be plastered using a special mesh.

Insulation of floors in a wooden house

In addition to the listed methods of insulation, which, as an option, are also suitable for floors, there are several more.

Warm floor

The system "Warm floor", using IR films, is an expensive pleasure, but at the moment it is the most optimal energy-saving option, which, moreover, creates a special coziness and comfort.

Backfill and jellied floors

Warming with expanded clay and pouring concrete are relevant for the floors of the first and basement floors.

The advantages include good thermal insulation properties and affordable cost of materials.

There are also options for water and electric floors:

Before starting work on internal insulation, it is recommended to consult with specialists. Perhaps there is a way to insulate the exterior of the facade, and then only work on the insulation of the floors will remain inside.

The process of heating walls from inside a wooden house. Materials, tools and costs

Wooden houses are often insulated from the inside so as not to spoil the facade and not overlap the beauty of the natural material with the outside decor.

A new building, built from logs or logs, will be an oven and will not initially pass cold or heat, since the magazines themselves are good heaters.

But after a year and a half, the best knife dissolves, cracks appear, and the house becomes cold.

How to insulate a wooden house from the inside?

Internal insulation requires careful preparatory work to clean the logs from mold and decay. The least control can cause further rot and deterioration of the façade.

If the house is new, logs or wood are usually already treated with special rot preparations.

How to properly insulate a wooden house in the interior?

In the event of a major overhaul and heating of the walls of an old house, it is necessary to clean them from flowers or old backgrounds to a "live" panel.

Heating takes place according to the following scheme:

cleaning the wall;
wood processing with antiseptics;
dew point detection;
steam barrier laying;
laying of heat-insulating material;
external finishing.

Depending on the material used, the outer surface is immediately decorative or intermediate - for example, gypsum plasterboards, which are then painted or tapped.

What materials are needed for internal wall insulation

For complete, technically correct thermal insulation, you will need:

antiseptic for wood;
vapor barrier film;
bar or metal profile for the box;
direct heater;
material for outdoor decoration.

For outdoor processing, the most popular drywall, the optimal combination of price and comfort when working with it, this material is becoming the most popular among the finishing.

In addition, it has a negative flammability, which is important for a wooden structure.

Find out more about internal plaster processing.

Manufacturers of building materials and building materials offer various modern materials as heaters, including expanded polystyrene and OSB (oriented particle board).

In photodirectional chipboard for internal insulation

Expanded polystyrene is a type of foam produced using a special technology, a convenient and inexpensive universal insulation (see.

also for external insulation with expanded polystyrene).

The tool will require a drill or screwdriver, a stapler for fixing the vapors, measuring tape and level.

The process of heating walls from the inside of a wooden house

First, the walls are cleaned (the damaged parts of the wood are removed), then the walls must be treated with an environmentally friendly antiseptic.

In specialized stores, their choice is sufficient, the average order value is 1000-1500 rubles per 10 liters.

This range is sufficient for processing 100 square meters of surface.

After processing, you must calculate the dew point in accordance with a special program and, according to these calculations, indicate your location on the wall after installing the fan.

Then you need to install a vapor barrier.

This must be done - the steam lock protects the wooden façade from condensation that occurs when hot and cold air comes into contact.

A non-perforated film is used to insulate the steam wall, which is available in rolls, especially in the case of steam jet insulation.

The film is attached to the wall with a stapler.

Then a strip is formed along the level with a distance equal to the width of the insulating sheet. Then the thermal insulation is tightly inserted between the vertical profile.

The last stage is the fixation of the gypsum boards.

This insulation will help to significantly reduce the cost of heating your home in the winter and cool the summer.

How much does it cost to invite a team of end players?

In each region, their prices, mostly end caps, are per square meter of each layer.

But if you calculate on average, the cost per square meter of internal wall insulation is about 500-600 rubles.

That's not a lot if you think the professionals will do a good job and keep the house warm for years without any additional repairs.

How to attach a heater to a wooden wall

The connection of the heater to the wooden wall can be done when the structure starts to work and at the stage of finishing the facade.

Both options are acceptable, the main thing is to choose the right heating material and work in accordance with the installation technology.

Mineral wool for insulating wooden walls

The simplest and most affordable option for heating a timber facade is the use of mineral wool and materials based on this.

The advantage of such materials is their excellent vapor permeability and air permeability performance and their ability to remove excessive moisture from the walls.

In order to properly mount the heaters on a wooden wall, it is important to follow expert advice or have some experience with similar work.

To complete the installation, you will need the following materials and tools:

wooden blocks for the box;
heater;
construction of a Scottish eye for the treatment of joints;
membrane film for waterproofing;
adhesive composition made of foil, moisture resistant;
self-tapping screws;
facing materials.

As for the tool, it is not possible to install insulation on a wooden base:

Heating technology is easy as you can see yourself as you study the information below.

Scheme of fastening material on wooden walls

At the initial stage of work, a wooden box made of metal profiles or well-dried wooden blocks should be installed.

They will act as a guide and a layer of insulation must be installed between them.

The lamella pitch must match the dimensions of the insulation boards.

Due to the high elasticity of mineral wool, the layer can be laid “on the bench” so that they remain in equilibrium with each other.

This type of device eliminates the formation of "cold bridges".

For security, you can additionally insulate the insulation around the rim with tape.

We have described the simplest technology for installing mineral wool on wooden walls.

In fact, in some areas of the country where a particularly harsh climate is used, up to 100 mm thick, they are installed in several layers for each preparation of a separate container.

Naturally, mineral wool materials should not be used to insulate wooden houses.

How to properly insulate a wooden house from the inside: the choice of material and technology, the stage of work

Rules for preparing material and facade for installation

Regardless of how the material for heating wooden facade walls was chosen, it is important to pack it the day before work in order to take it back to its original shape.

The implementation of thermal insulation is better in the warm season without precipitation per day.

Before proceeding with the installation of the heater, it is important to check the structure of the house due to defects requiring removal.

If the old finish does not meet the strength requirements, then the correct solution will be eliminated by subsequent cleaning of the facade walls of the house with compounds that protect them from fungi, bacteria and mold.

Considering that most wooden home heaters are wool based, it is important to protect the material from exposure to atmospheric humidity.

As an option, tiles can be made from roofing iron using joint sealant.

The sheets on the base are better fixed with screws.

Facade insulation

Typically, a two-layer container is usually used to insulate a ventilated facade, with the first layer of a horizontal strip of the same width with a heater.

This is a rail design that allows the plates to be inserted into the spacer without additional installation.

A prerequisite for heaters is the installation of a windproof membrane, on which the second layer of the container with vertical rods is laid.

At this point, the disc pitch will depend on the final material chosen.

It should be noted that insulating panels on wooden houses can be secured with clinical umbrellas to the bottom of the wall.

Finally, a few words about the need to insulate wooden houses from the outside.

The fact is that the use of high quality insulation and proper installation will allow you to correctly distribute the temperature load so that the walls can be stored in service longer, but not earlier.

In addition, the use of insulation for the outer walls improves the permeability of the facade steam, and the outer side of the material is porous, preventing premature wear of the walls.

With regard to the choice of insulation for the external insulation of wooden walls, her own preferences should be taken into account, both in terms of production and aesthetic components.

Want to know more about this topic?

Check out these articles:

Causes of heat loss in a wooden house

As a rule, wooden houses are very comfortable. In such buildings, it is cool in the warm season and warm in the winter.

The decrease in temperature inside a wooden house is caused by two main factors:

incorrect vapor barrier;
cracks that appeared in the old building due to the drying out of the tree over time.

Is it possible to insulate a wooden house from the inside? Of course, and if the house is old - even necessary! In order to perform thermal insulation from the inside, it is necessary to choose the right materials and follow the technology provided for such a task.

Insulation of both new and old wooden houses is carried out in stages.

How and how to properly insulate a wooden house from the inside with your own hands? Consider the stages of internal wall insulation and select an environmentally friendly insulation for internal thermal insulation.

Preparation

All actions related to the construction and improvement of residential buildings must be preceded by calculations - this rule also applies to the insulation of a building made of wood.
Calculations make it possible to find out the degree of effectiveness of thermal insulation and find out whether it is possible, in principle, to produce insulation from the inside.

Insulating material always fulfills its purpose, but the location of the dew point plays a decisive role. Under no circumstances should it be placed on the inside of supporting structures, especially in an insulating material, and the task of the calculations is to demonstrate this.

When placing the dew point from the inside, the room will have a fairly comfortable temperature regime, but in winter there is always dampness, leading to soaking of thermal insulation materials, rotting of wood, and the formation of mold.

Provided that the dew point does not appear in the interior of the room even in winter, thermal insulation can be performed from the inside.

But this will inevitably have to sacrifice the interior space of living quarters.

Choosing materials

A number of requirements are imposed on the materials used for the internal thermal insulation of wooden houses:

low heat conductivity;
fire resistance;
strength;
environmental Safety.

Thermal insulation methods are selected based on the materials used for this purpose.

How to insulate the house from the inside? Currently, several types of heaters are produced for the walls of the house:

Modern heaters have a lot of advantages: lightness, flexibility, excellent thermal insulation parameters.

Close up the joints

Having decided to take on the insulation of a wooden house with your own hands, you need to take into account one important point. The wooden structure shrinks, this process takes several months. In addition to shrinkage, when the heating system is brought into operation in the premises, the tree begins to dry at a high speed. This is reflected in the configuration of the logs and beams.

Initially densely spaced wooden elements at the joints can form large gaps that release heat into the street.

For this reason, the first step in the thermal insulation of a timber house should be the sealing of the joints.

For this, sealants and other materials are used. It is convenient to close the slots with a wide chisel.

If the gaps are large, tape hemp twisted with a roller is used.

At this stage, the main thing is to stop the release of warm air through the cracks.

Important! Do not forget about the safety of electrical wiring when sealing cracks, especially if it is located on the surface: in this case, be sure to separate it and isolate it from the wall.

Protection of wood from fire and biological factors

Some of the load-bearing structures located from the inside will be covered with an insulating layer for a long time. With this in mind, the wood should be treated with products that protect it from fire and mold. You cannot save on processing with such compositions, and you need to choose high-quality funds in order to provide good protection.

When processing supporting structures with fire and bioprotective agents, it should be taken into account that wooden fences also need to be processed, since they will also be located in the insulation.

Ventilation

For some reason, the owners of private houses did not think much about the ventilation of buildings in the past? The thing is that earlier ventilation was carried out naturally - through loosely located windows and cavities in the walls. This is typical of old log houses even now.

The materials used for the construction of modern buildings avoid gaps and crevices through which air currents can circulate. But this does not mean at all that there should be no air movement in the rooms at all. Ventilation systems are designed in modern buildings. Such systems remove recycled air from rooms and provide fresh air.

Properly executed internal insulation necessarily provides for ventilation. Only in this case the microclimate in the house will be optimal.

The insulation itself, which has a porous structure, for example, the same mineral wool, also needs ventilation. For this reason, a small distance must necessarily remain between the supporting structure and the thermal insulation material for unhindered air circulation and the removal of excess moisture. In this case, the level of humidity throughout the room will be uniform.

It is not difficult to make such a gap. On the supporting structures, at an equal distance, a timber strip of about 25 mm in size is attached, and a vapor barrier film is attached on top of it. Thus, a small distance is formed between the wall and the heat-insulating material for air movement, which protects the internal structures and the heat-insulating material from humidification.

On a note! If the walls of the building are made of a log having a cylindrical configuration, then ventilation gaps are formed naturally. In the event that glued laminated timber was used for the construction of the house, it is recommended to take care of the design of the ventilation gap.

Vapor barrier layer

The use of such heat-insulating materials as glass wool, mineral wool, expanded polystyrene (non-pressed type) for warming requires a vapor barrier.

It is mounted as follows: a vapor barrier membrane is attached to the ventilation crate. A stapler is used for fastening.

An important point! When installing the vapor barrier membrane, be sure to pull the foil tightly so that there is a gap for ventilation between the supporting structure and it.

The connection of two sheets of vapor barrier film is made with an overlap of at least 10 cm and secured with tape.

If an extruded type of expanded polystyrene is used as a heat-insulating material, then there is no need for a vapor barrier layer. Extruded polystyrene foam has waterproofing properties that prevent moisture penetration.

Installation of the fence

In all versions of thermal insulation of internal load-bearing structures of a log or log house, with the exception of the use of isoplat, installation of a fence is required. Usually, a square beam (50 mm) is used for its design. The distance of the location of the wooden block depends on the width of the insulation material.

When using mineral wool, the spacing between the arrangement of the bars should be made 10 mm less in comparison with the width of the heat insulator in order to achieve the maximum tightness.

When using extruded polystyrene foam, the step is made in accordance with the width of the sheets of material.

Important! Before installation, be sure to treat all wooden blocks with a composition that has fire and bioprotective properties.

Bars are fastened with screws directly to wooden supporting structures. If there is a lathing to form a ventilation gap, the bars are attached to the installed rails. It is recommended to insert fasteners into pre-made small holes (for this use a thin drill) so that the wood does not crack.

In some cases, the fence is made of gypsum plasterboard profiles attached to the supporting structures on straight hangers. This is done only if the cladding is made of drywall.

Bars made of wood are preferable, as they have less heat conduction in comparison with metal products.

In the process of thermal insulation of the ceiling, the fence is designed according to a similar principle. When insulating the floor, the logs made of wood, to which the topcoat is attached, serve as a fence.

Installing a heat insulator

Insulating material is laid in the cavity between the enclosing elements. If the heat insulator is in the form of sheets, then the wall installation should start from the bottom, and when using roll material - from the top, moving down.

Sheets of mineral wool are positioned against each other, due to which their reliable fastening is achieved. But this material, just like polystyrene, needs additional fastening with nails (one for each sheet).

The heat insulator in rolls is fixed in the upper part of the wall with one screw, then the material is unfolded and attached with nails at a distance of one meter.

First, solid sheets are mounted, and the remaining areas where trimming is necessary are filled with insulating material at the very end.

If the roof is sloping, the ceiling heat insulator unfolds from the bottom upwards and is fixed with nails or with a cord. Small nails are nailed to the adjacent bars at a distance of 15 cm, and after the heat-insulating material is laid, a cord is pulled between the beams in a zigzag, which will ensure reliable fastening of the insulation.

When insulating with extruded polystyrene foam, all existing gaps at the seams are sealed with construction foam. Foam application requires preliminary wetting of the surfaces. Dried excess foam is cut off with a knife.

Video about wall insulation from the inside

The video tutorial below shows how to properly insulate a wooden house from the inside: