How can you insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside? Do-it-yourself insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the inside. Insulation of the walls of a country house from the inside

Insulation of walls from the inside in wooden houses makes them more comfortable and economical. In addition, the good performance of the walls for heating technology allows you to save on heating. The question should be taken seriously, since the result will completely depend on the chosen material and adherence to technology.

Thermal insulation of the house from the inside avoids the need for external finishing. With this approach, it is possible to preserve the attractive appearance of a building made of a bar or rounded log. But the technology has a number of downsides to prepare for:

• the interior rooms, but not the walls, are protected from the harmful effects of cold;
• the useful area of ​​the building is reduced;
• there are certain restrictions on the materials used.

What insulation to choose

What is the best way to insulate a house? It is worth starting from the material of the walls. The tree has gained well-deserved popularity due to the fact that it is able to "breathe". Wood allows air to pass through well, while providing excellent ventilation in the premises.

To fully preserve the useful property when working from the inside with your own hands, you need to use materials that are similar in breathability to wood. To insulate the house, it is better to abandon such heat insulators as:

• Styrofoam;
• extruded polystyrene foam (or simply "Penoplex");
• penoizol.

They are highly airtight, so they can create a greenhouse effect in a building. This will require the device of expensive forced ventilation or the installation of air conditioners.

The best material for thermal insulation is mineral wool.

Its advantages include:

• high efficiency;
• the ability to pass air without interfering with natural ventilation;
• safety for human health and the environment;
• incombustibility;
• ease of installation;
• availability;
• low cost.

But when using cotton wool, it is worth remembering its shortcomings. The material absorbs moisture well, while ceasing to perform its main function. To avoid getting wet, you should also purchase vapor barrier and windproofing.

Layer scheme for insulation with mineral wool

There are several varieties of mineral wool. The best option would be basalt (stone) insulation in slabs. You can also choose glass wool, which comes in the form of rolled mats. The second option can cause installation difficulties. The material is severely prickly, and particles entering the lungs or on the skin cause itching. To avoid unpleasant consequences, all work with glass wool is performed in special clothing and masks.

The most undesirable, but inexpensive option will be slag wool. But, when insulating your house, it is better not to save. Cotton wool is made from industrial waste. Manufacturers are responsible for safety, but it is not always possible to check from which slags the insulation is made. You can easily come across low-quality material or a fake, with which the insulation of a wooden house from the inside will be dangerous to health and life.

Preparatory stage

Before insulating a wooden house from the inside, you will need to prepare the walls. This is especially true if you need to insulate an old wooden house. In this case, the material that was used for caulking has time to cake. The main task at this stage will be to eliminate cracks - sources of drafts, cold and moisture.

Work begins with cleaning the base. You will need to remove dust and dirt that have accumulated on the walls. Before insulating an old house, it is worth checking the strength of the wood. It should not be damaged by various pests. Otherwise, it is better to reinforce the walls.

To prevent problems with insects and microorganisms in the future, the surface is treated with antiseptic compounds. You can also perform treatment with fire retardants, they increase the resistance of the material to fire.

Antiseptic treatment will protect wood from decay

Wood shrinks over time. This can cause cracks in the walls. Before starting work on insulation, it is worthwhile to caulk the old walls. Currently, jute is most often used for these purposes. For large crevices, it is wise to purchase a tape tow. The material is hammered between logs or a bar using a chisel.

Caulking will protect the walls from blowing and will become an additional heat insulator

It is necessary to carry out the work until the material ceases to creep into the space and begins to hang out. High-quality caulk is a guarantee of a warm home.

Wind-waterproofing of walls

Mineral wool is afraid of moisture. Before insulating the walls in a wooden house, you should take care of the protection of the insulation. On the outside of the mineral wool, a layer of wind-waterproofing is fixed. It prevents weathering and penetration of atmospheric moisture. There are several types of suitable materials, but a vapor diffusion membrane is the best option.

Description and characteristics of the windproof membrane

This modern material reliably protects against water, but does not impede the movement of air and steam. This allows you to maintain the ability of the walls to breathe, as well as ensure the removal of moisture from the insulation.

The waterproofing is attached to the walls with a construction stapler. The joints of the canvases are made with an overlap of at least 10 cm and are glued with tape or special tape.

Insulation installation

Internal wall insulation is carried out along the frame. It can be made of wood from a metal profile. The easiest way to insulate a building made of wood is to use wood for the frame as well. It is important to correctly select the geometric dimensions of the frame:

• The step of the racks is selected taking into account the width of the insulation. It should be about 2 cm smaller than the width of the mats or slabs. This is necessary for a snug fit of the material. For mineral wool, such a step of the racks is most often used so that a distance of 58 cm remains in the light between them.
• The overhang of the frame must take into account the thickness of the insulation and the required ventilation gap. It is needed to remove condensation from the surface and allows you to keep the material dry. The thickness of the ventilation gap is usually taken equal to 3-5 cm.

Installation of slabs in the walls should be carried out with an interference fit - then it will not start to slip over time

Mineral wool is laid between the racks of the crate. With the correct choice of the step of the latter, the heat insulator will be held by friction. For additional fastening, you can use special plastic dowels, usually they are sold with insulation.

Vapor barrier

How to properly insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside? It is important not only to choose the right insulation, but also to protect it from all types of moisture. Indoors are characterized by a fairly high humidity, water in the form of steam can easily reach the mineral wool and reduce its effectiveness.

Vapor barrier is a mandatory layer when using mineral wool

Internal wall insulation implies the mandatory presence of a vapor barrier layer. It is mounted on top of the insulation. A good option for protection is vapor barrier membranes.

Characteristics of a vapor barrier membrane

They are more expensive than films, but they do not impede the movement of air through the walls. Membranes will become a more modern and efficient option.
Thermal insulation of a wooden wall from the inside with their help is carried out according to the manufacturer's instructions. The fastening method may differ for different types.

Finishing

Insulation of the walls of a wooden house is completed with a fine finish. For these purposes, you can apply a variety of options. But when choosing a material, it is worth remembering about ventilation. The finishing layer must not impede the movement of air, otherwise all the previous choice of materials is useless.

Lining for interior cladding - a simple, inexpensive and environmentally friendly option

Insulation thickness

Insulation of walls in wooden houses from the inside should begin with calculating the thickness of the heat insulator. Only a professional can perform detailed calculations. For self-construction, you can use special programs. For example, the Teremok program. It is quite simple and freely available. There is both an online version and a PC application.

On average, mineral wool with a thickness of 80-100 mm is used for walls. But it all depends on the climatic region.
Before insulating your own wooden house from the inside, you should carefully study the information on the topic.

And do not forget that from the point of view of heating technology, it is more correct to insulate with mineral wool outside.

Competent performance of work is the key to durability and comfort.

Construction science recommends doing external insulation of buildings, since in this case the dew point is outside the room in the insulation or in the outer layer of the walls. With such insulation, moisture will not condense on the walls in rooms.

But still there are cases when insulation of a wooden house from the inside- is the only correct solution. For example, if the owner of the house wants to preserve the beautiful appearance characteristic of houses made of rounded logs, or the laws prescribe to preserve the historical appearance of the building.

Modern building science allows you to make internal insulation of wooden houses, but for this you should use the right materials and follow the technology.

Preparatory work

All work on the construction and arrangement of residential buildings must be preceded by

engineering calculations... This also applies to the internal insulation of a wooden house.

The heat engineering calculation should show how effective the insulation will be and, in general, is there a possibility of internal insulation? The insulation will always fulfill its function, but the position of the dew point is of decisive importance.

The dew point should never be on the interior walls. and even more so in insulation and calculations should show this. If the dew point is inside, then the room will be warm, but in the cold season it is constantly damp. And from the damp porous insulation gets wet, the walls of houses rot, mold and various unwanted animals are massively divorced.

Only if the dew point is not inside the room, even during the coldest period, you can confidently produce internal insulation. True, for this you will have to sacrifice part of the internal volume of the house, but without this - in no way!

Materials used for internal insulation

Materials that are used in the internal insulation of the house, must meet certain requirements:

1. First, they must have low thermal conductivity in order to fulfill their main function - insulation.
2. Secondly, these materials must meet the fire safety requirements for the premises.
3. Third, the material, alone or in combination with the mounting structure, must provide the required mechanical strength.
4. And, finally, all materials used indoors must be environmentally friendly and not emit any chemicals into the ambient air that adversely affect the health of living beings.

Warming methods

Ways of insulating a wooden house directly depend on the materials used for this. In modern construction, several of their types are used:

1. Mineral basalt wool slabs- are used most often. This material does not burn, it is environmentally friendly, its use provides excellent heat and sound insulation. Low mechanical strength requires the construction of the enclosing structure, and high hygroscopicity requires covering the mineral wool with special vapor barrier films.
2. Expanded polystyrene plates (polystyrene), also found application in internal insulation. It is not recommended to use them, as they can release substances containing styrene into the air. When burning, pressless expanded polystyrene releases deadly substances: hydrogen cyanide and toluene diisocyanate. Therefore, you can use only extruded polystyrene foam, flammability class - G1. Insulation with expanded polystyrene also requires a building envelope.
3. Glass wool- a widely used material for insulation. It has a lower price than basalt wool, but also has a higher thermal conductivity. To insulate the interior with glass wool, only a material specially designed for this purpose should be used, which must additionally be covered with films. Small particles of glass wool are very harmful to health, therefore, installation is carried out only in protective equipment for the skin and respiratory organs. Requires enclosing structures.
4. Izoplat- modern insulation, which consists of a layer of pressed flax fiber and fiberboard with a thickness of 12 to 25 mm. High mechanical strength makes it possible not to make powerful enclosing structures, and the environmental friendliness of this material allows it to be used indoors. Izoplat's thermal conductivity indicators are worse, and the price is much higher than that of other heaters.
5. Insulation with polyurethane foam sprayed onto the surface is a modern excellent method that requires special equipment. Fencing structures are needed for such insulation.

In this video you can watch how a wooden house is insulated from the inside with polyurethane foam.

Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the inside

Sealing joints

A wooden house, even an impeccably built one, will settle for quite some time. In addition to precipitation, when the heating is turned on, the wood is intensively drying out in the house, which affects the geometric dimensions of the log or laminated veneer lumber. Initially, even well-laid logs or beams can form enlarged gaps at their joints, through which heat will be mercilessly carried out into the atmosphere.

Therefore, the first operation to insulate a house is to seal the joints.

This can be done in various materials: tow, jute, synthetic sealants or combinations of various sealants. The main thing at this stage is to stop the leakage of heated air through the joints.

Fire bio-protection of a tree

When insulated, the inner part of the walls will be hidden by a layer of insulation, and for a fairly long time. That is why the tree must be treated with a good fire-retardant composition, which for a long time excludes the development of living creatures and makes it difficult for fire... It is not worth saving on this, you need to choose only good formulations that are guaranteed to provide the necessary protection.

When processing walls with fire-retardant compositions, it must be taken into account that all enclosing structures, if they are wooden, must also be processed, since they will also be hidden in the insulation structure.

Heat insulation and ventilation

Why didn't they think much about the ventilation of houses before? Yes, because ventilation was carried out in a natural way - through leaks in wall and window structures.

Modern building materials and technologies exclude any leaks and gaps through which air can pass, but this does not mean that air should not circulate in the room. In modern houses, a ventilation system is designed, which should supply fresh air to the room and remove waste air.

Good internal thermal insulation must always be accompanied by ventilation. Only then will the microclimate in the room be normal. But ventilation is also required by the thermal insulation itself, which has a soft and porous structure, for example, mineral wool. Therefore, in the gap between the wall and the thermal insulation layer, there must be an air gap through which air must circulate freely, removing excess moisture, comparing the air humidity in the entire room.

Such gaps are very easy to implement in practice. A wooden strip of about 2.5 cm thick is attached to the walls with a certain gap, and a vapor barrier membrane is already attached to it. It turns out that there is an air gap between the wall and the insulation, which prevents the increased humidity of the inner walls and the insulation.

If the walls of the house are built from cylindrical logs, then the ventilation gaps are obtained in a natural way, and if from glued beams, then the device of the ventilation gap is highly desirable.

Vapor barrier

If used as a heater basalt wool, glass wool, non-pressed polystyrene foam, then vapor barrier must be done. To do this, a vapor barrier film is attached to the ventilation crate using a construction stapler. The foil must be stretched enough so that there is a ventilation gap between it and the wall. the joining of two vapor barrier panels is done with an overlap of at least 10 cm using tape and a stapler.

If the inner space of the house will be insulated with extruded polystyrene foam, then a vapor barrier is not needed. This material already has the necessary waterproofing qualities and will be a reliable barrier to moisture.

Installation of the enclosing structure

With all methods of insulating the internal walls of a wooden house, except for Isoplat plates, the construction of a building envelope is required. Most often it is made from a wooden square bar in cross section 50 mm in size. The installation step of the bar is determined by the width of the insulation. If mineral wool insulation is used, then the distance between adjacent bars should be 10 mm less than the width of the insulation - for a snug fit. If extruded polystyrene foam is used, then the distance should be exactly the width of the insulation boards.

Before installation it is necessary to treat all the bars with a fire retardant compound. Installation is carried out using screws of the required length directly to the wooden walls. If a crate was used for the ventilation gap, then the bars are attached to the previously mounted slats. In this case, it is better to wrap the screws in the holes pre-drilled with a thin drill. This will prevent possible cracking of the wood.

Sometimes plasterboard profiles are used as the enclosing structure, which are attached to the walls with straight suspensions. This should only be done when drywall will be used as a finishing, and in all other cases it is better to use a wooden block. The thermal conductivity of wood is much lower than that of metal.

When insulating the ceiling, the enclosing structure is made in the same way as the wall one. When insulating the floor, the wooden logs themselves, on which the floor covering will be attached, act as a building envelope.

Insulation installation

Insulation is placed in the space between the enclosing bars. If sheet insulation, then installation on the walls is carried out from bottom to top, and roll, on the contrary, from top to bottom.

Mineral wool slabs are laid flat, which makes it possible for them to hold on securely. However, it is still necessary to additionally strengthen the foam or mineral wool using special dowels with a wide head, one dowel per slab.

Roll insulation fixed from above with one dowel, rolled down and fixed with dowels at intervals of 1 meter. First, whole slabs or rolls are laid, and the remaining space where trimming is required is filled with insulation last.

Ceiling insulation, in the case of a sloped roof, rolls up from the bottom up and can be fixed with dowels or with a cord. To do this, small carnations are stuffed onto neighboring bars with an interval of 15 cm, and then, after laying the insulation between the beams, a cord is pulled in a zigzag manner, which will reliably hold the mineral wool.

If extruded polystyrene foam is used for insulation, then all possible gaps at the joints can be filled with polyurethane foam. Before applying the foam, the surfaces are moistened, and after it dries, all excess is trimmed with a knife.

Final waterproofing

After installing the insulation, if the insulation was made with porous materials capable of absorbing water, then it is necessary to cover the insulation with a layer of waterproofing, but with a special one - vapor-permeable membrane, which is, on the one hand, a reliable barrier to water, and on the other hand, the membrane freely releases water vapor from the insulation. Even if water has condensed in the insulation, it will come out in the form of steam until the humidity of the insulation becomes equal to the humidity in the room.

The vapor-permeable film has two sides: one smooth and the other rough, through which water vapor escapes. With a rough side, such a film is laid to the insulation and fixed with a stapler to the enclosing structure. Joints with an overlap of 10 cm are glued with tape and fastened with a stapler. For waterproof insulation, a vapor-permeable membrane is not needed.

The final stage of insulation there will be an installation of the topcoat, which can be wooden lining, drywall, plywood, OSB boards and others.

conclusions

1. Insulation of walls inside a wooden house is extremely rare and very often a necessary measure.
2. Before installing the internal thermal insulation, it is necessary to carry out thermal calculations showing the position of the dew point in the cold season. Precise dew should not be on the inner walls and in the insulation.
3. As a heater, you should choose only environmentally friendly from well-known manufacturers.
4. Porous insulation must be covered with waterproofing films from the side of the wall and a vapor-permeable membrane from the side of the room.

If you are going to independently insulate a wooden house from the inside, I recommend that you read this article. We will consider in detail all the main nuances and subtleties of this procedure, which you are unlikely to be told about on other resources.

Thermal insulation of a wooden house from the inside

A few words about the choice of insulation

First of all, home craftsmen are interested in how to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside, as well as the floor and ceiling. The choice of insulation for a wooden house requires a special approach, because one of the main advantages of such housing is vapor permeability and environmental friendliness. Accordingly, it is desirable to preserve these qualities.

Wood is known to be a combustible material. Therefore, it is desirable that the insulation is fireproof.

Given these points, you can use the following materials for home insulation:

• mineral wool;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• ecowool.

Mineral wool

Minvata

Mineral wool is the most common insulation material.

It is excellent for thermal insulation of wooden housing due to its following properties:

• good thermal insulation qualities - 0.032 - 0.048 W / mK;
• environmental friendliness;
• good vapor permeability;
• fire safety - mineral wool not only does not burn, but also resists the spread of fire;
• sold in the form of mats and rolls, which makes it convenient to work with mineral wool.

It should be noted that only basalt wool is environmentally friendly. In addition, it is the most heat-resistant. Therefore, use it to insulate a wooden house.

Basalt wool Technicol

True, the price of basalt wool is slightly higher than stone wool and glass wool:

Brand	Cost for 1m3
Isoroc Izoruf-V	3990
TECHNOFAS L	3500
Ecover Light	1950
TECHNOFLOR	4800

Another disadvantage of basalt wool is that it irritates the skin, although to a lesser extent than, for example, glass wool. But, in any case, when working with it, it is advisable to protect the eyes and respiratory organs.

In general, in my opinion, basalt wool is the most optimal insulation for wooden walls.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Penoplex

Extruded polystyrene foam is a type of regular foam.

Thanks to a special manufacturing technology, it has better characteristics than expanded polystyrene:

• high strength - 0.2-0.5 MPa versus 0.07 MPa for foam;
• thermal conductivity is lower than that of mineral wool - 0.028-0.034 W / mK;
• in the manufacturing process, manufacturers add fire retardants to the extruded polystyrene foam, due to which the material corresponds to the flammability class G1 (slightly flammable material). True, this only applies to insulation from well-known manufacturers;
• resistant to moisture, therefore does not require waterproofing and vapor barrier during installation;
• does not irritate the skin.

Penoplex differs from foam in a more homogeneous structure

At the same time, penoplex also has some disadvantages:

• vapor permeability is very low, so it is better not to use penoplex to insulate the walls of the house. At the same time, it will be a good solution for thermal insulation of the floor, since it is not afraid of moisture;
• high cost - penoplex is one of the most expensive thermal insulation materials today.

Below is the cost for some common brands of extruded polystyrene foam:

Ecowool is a modern eco-friendly material

Ecowool

Ecowool is a relatively new thermal insulation material that has recently become more and more popular.

Its advantages include the following points:

• environmental friendliness - the material is made on the basis of wood fibers;
• vapor permeability;
• thanks to the special additives that are in the composition of ecowool, the insulation is fireproof, as well as resistant to biological influences;
• has a low thermal conductivity of 0.031-0.040 W / m * K;
• low cost - from 1200 rubles. per cubic meter

Ecowool can be used to insulate horizontal surfaces

I must say that special equipment is required to insulate walls with ecowool. Therefore, when working on your own, you can only perform floor or ceiling insulation with this material.

Here are all the most common heaters that are used to insulate wooden houses. True, there are also materials that are applied in the form of foam, for example, polyurethane foam. However, they will not be able to insulate them on their own, so we will not consider them.

Insulation technology

The process of insulating a wooden house includes three main stages:

The main stages of thermal insulation of a wooden house from the inside

Floor insulation

To insulate the floor yourself, you will need the following materials:

• one of the insulation materials I mentioned above;
• vapor barrier;
• slats and boards - will be needed if there is no rough floor between the logs;
• antiseptic impregnation for wood.

Wooden floor scheme

The instruction for floor insulation looks like this:

1. if the floor has already been in use, you need to dismantle the wooden flooring;
2. then you need to make a rough floor, if, of course, it is absent. To do this, fix the cranial bars on the bottom of the rafters and lay the boards on top of them;
3. Further treat all wooden floor elements with an antiseptic to protect them from biological influences;

Laying vapor barrier on logs

1. then the vapor barrier is laid on top of the rafters and the subfloor. The strips of the membrane should overlap each other by 10 centimeters. Be sure to glue the joints with tape.
   As I said above, in the case of floor insulation with extruded polystyrene foam, the vapor barrier can not be used;

Insulation laying

1. then you need to install thermal insulation. If mineral plates or penoplex are used for these purposes, place the insulation close to the logs. In addition, make sure that no gaps form between the insulation plates;

It is advisable to leave a small gap between the insulation and the upper layer of the vapor barrier.

1. then you need to lay another layer of the vapor barrier;
2. at the end of the work, you need to lay the boards, fixing them on the logs with nails or screws.

I must say that the thermal insulation of the attic floor is performed in the same way, with the only difference that the insulation is placed between the floor beams.

Thermal insulation of walls

The next stage is wall insulation from the inside of a wooden house. I must say right away that you need to resort to this procedure only if it is really necessary.

Wall insulation scheme from the inside

It is much more expedient to insulate the house from the outside.

The fact is that internal insulation contains a number of disadvantages:

• the insulation, although not significantly, still takes away useful space in the room. For large houses, this, of course, is not critical, but in small houses, for example, garden ones, the decrease in space can be very noticeable;
• after the walls are insulated from the inside, they completely cease to be heated;
• moisture forms between the insulation and the wall, which leads to dampness of the surface and, accordingly, a decrease in the durability of the structure.

If insulation from the inside cannot be avoided, it is necessary to strictly adhere to a certain technology, which will minimize all the negative consequences of this procedure.

Antiseptic impregnation

So, for wall insulation it is necessary to prepare the following materials:

• antiseptic impregnation for wood;
• mezhventsovy insulation;
• wooden slats;
• vapor barrier;
• thermal insulation material;
• finishing material - lining or, for example, drywall.

The process of wall insulation can be divided into four main stages:

Stages of wall insulation from the inside

To prepare the walls for insulation with your own hands, you need to follow these steps:

1. the surfaces of the walls must be treated with impregnation in order to prevent wood rotting, to protect it from moisture and other negative factors;

Warming the crowns of the house

1. if the house is made of beams or logs, it is imperative to insulate the inter-crown gaps by filling them with tow, jute insulation, or another suitable material.

Now we need to equip the ventilation space between the wall and the insulation so that the walls do not get damp.

It is done as follows:

1. fix the slats on the walls in a horizontal position. Their thickness should be at least 1.5-2 cm.

The layout of the planks on the wall

Install them at a distance of 0.5 m vertically, and 2-3 cm horizontally. At the same time, try to arrange them so that they form a flat horizontal plane. Minor deviations are allowed, since the plane of the frame can be corrected at the stage of installing the racks;

The vapor barrier membrane must be taut

1. then a vapor barrier membrane must be attached to the slats. It must be tight enough to create a ventilation gap. Glue the membrane joints with tape;
2. for the ventilation gap to work, it is imperative to drill holes in the wall from the bottom near the base, and from above under the canopy.

Now we start assembling the frame:

1. the bars that will serve as racks must be cut to the height of the room;

Racks can be fixed to the wall with hangers

1. the prepared bars must be fixed on the slats. If their thickness is equal to the thickness of the insulation, the racks can be placed close to the slats using metal corners and self-tapping screws. If the beams are thinner, they should be fixed on suspensions, while the thickness of the frame should be equal to the thickness of the insulation.
   Make the distance between the posts so that the insulation fits snugly against them. For example, if mineral mats are used for insulation, the step of the posts can be made two centimeters less than the width of the mats.

An example of a correctly executed frame

To make the wall even, first, install vertical posts (always level) along the edges of the wall, i.e. near the corners, then pull the threads between them. This will allow you to align the intermediate posts in the same plane as the outer rails;

Mineral mats must be laid close to each other

1. now we are laying the insulation in the frame. To make the insulation of walls in a wooden house from the inside effective, try not to create gaps between the slabs. Also, position the slabs against the ceiling and walls.
   If the cracks are still formed, they must be filled with scraps of mineral wool;

Installation of the second layer of vapor barrier

1. then a vapor barrier membrane must be attached to the racks. You can use a construction stapler to secure it.
   Be sure to overlap the membrane strips, and glue the joints with tape;
2. fix wooden slats about two centimeters thick on top of the membrane. They will provide the necessary clearance between the skin and the vapor barrier membrane.
   Keep in mind that the lathing should be perpendicular to the plastic panels or lining.

To ensure good sound insulation in a home, you should insulate the inner walls with mineral wool, i.e. partitions. The installation principle of the insulation is the same as for the insulation of load-bearing walls.

Now we need to sheathe the frame. Usually, for these purposes, wooden finishing materials are used - lining or block house.

Their installation is carried out as follows:

1. the lining is most often installed vertically, so the boards must first be cut to the height of the room;
2. the first lining is installed so that the tenon is directed towards the corner. To fix it from the side of the thorn, self-tapping screws are screwed into the face.

An example of fastening the lining with a kleimer

From the side of the groove, the fit can also be fixed with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the lower ridge of the groove. It is even easier and faster to perform fixation using special fasteners - cleats;

1. the next board will be connected to the lock with the previous one and attached to the frame from the side of the groove. The last board on the wall is cut to the width and docked with the previous one. From the corner side, the lining is fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the face;

Installation example of wooden battens

1. at the end of the work, wooden corners are mounted on the corners. They will hide the joints of the lining and the caps of the screws.

This completes the insulation of the walls inside the house.

Ceiling insulation

As I said above, ceiling insulation can be done from the attic side. However, sometimes it becomes necessary to install a heater from the inside.

If you have a similar situation, you need to prepare the following materials:

• slab insulation;
• wooden slats;
• vapor barrier membrane.

Insulation of the ceiling with mineral wool

Installation of insulation is carried out as follows:

1. if there is no flooring in the attic, it must be completed. Boards or other material that is used as flooring should be fixed to the floor beams using nails or self-tapping screws;
2. then from the side of the room, the vapor barrier membrane should be attached to the floor beams and flooring;
3. further, the space between the beams must be filled with heat-insulating plates. To fix them, you can fix the rails perpendicular to the beams. You can also nail studs to the lower side surfaces of the beams, and pull threads or wire between them;
4. after warming the floor, it is necessary to fix another layer of vapor barrier;

In the photo - installation of vapor barrier

1. then the lathing is performed and the ceiling material is mounted. You can also make a frame and sheathe the ceiling with plasterboard.

Here, in fact, is all the information on how to properly insulate a wooden house from the inside.

Output

Having familiarized yourself with the technology, you can safely take on the insulation of a wooden house from the inside. As you can see, there is nothing difficult in this work. I recommend watching the video in this article. For all questions, you can contact me in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

Suburban wooden houses are being built more and more often. This is explained not only by the fashion for old Russian style, but also by other, completely material reasons.

For example, dry wood is approximately retains heat 2.5 times better than brickwork of the same thickness, and wooden walls, gradually drying out, emit pleasantly smelling substances into the air and thereby create a favorable microclimate.

Modern building codes (SNiP 23-02-2003) establish requirements for thermal insulation of buildings. However, a wooden house, even built in compliance with all the rules, dries up and shrinks approximately three years after construction and is not always warm enough to meet these requirements. For this reason, it has to be insulated.

Usually wooden buildings insulate outside... This is explained by the fact that with external laying of thermal insulation, the dew point shifts from the surface or from the thickness of the wall to the surface or into the layer of external thermal insulation. This means that the logs or beams are well warmed up and remain dry at all times. And under such conditions, the wood is well protected from rotting and destruction by fungi.

However, for some reason, it is not always possible to lay the insulation outside. For example, old wooden buildings considered monuments of architecture, local authorities do not allow they to be insulated in this way, as this changes their appearance. In such cases, the owner is forced to install heat-insulating materials from the inside. Details about the features and technology of these works can be found in the article "Internal wall insulation - the best way to keep warm".

Rules for wall insulation from the inside in a wooden house

Do-it-yourself insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the inside is possible if comply with such rules:

1. Before starting work, make heat engineering calculations, taking into account the thermal conductivity and thickness of the walls, as well as insulation materials of various types and thicknesses. With all these calculations, the dew point must remain inside the wooden wall during any temperature fluctuations.
2. For internal installation, you need to choose heat insulators that do not emit harmful substances and are not subject to decomposition by fungi and bacteria at high humidity.
3. Porous insulation must be reliably insulated from the wall with a vapor-water-tight membrane, and from the side of the room - with a vapor-permeable membrane. In this case, the wood does not freeze and does not get wet, since only outside air with a low vapor content penetrates into it. And if condensation forms in the heat-insulating material when the dew point is shifted, then when the temperature in the room rises, it will evaporate and escape through the pores of the vapor-permeable membrane.
4. There must be an air gap between the finish and the insulation protected by a vapor-permeable membrane for condensation to evaporate.

What kind of insulation to choose?

For internal insulation of wooden houses usually applied such materials:

1. Warm seam... This concept includes natural and synthetic sealants. From natural tow, flax or linen rope are used. Synthetic sealants are available in tubes. They contain sealing compounds based on rubber, silicone or acrylic plastic. One of these materials is used to fill the gaps between the logs that have formed after the wood has dried out.
2. Mineral wool... Basalt wool is usually used in slabs. Glass wool is not used for internal insulation, since small fragments of fiberglass irritate the skin and respiratory tract. Basalt wool allows steam to pass through and can accumulate a little moisture, so it requires mandatory waterproofing from the tree. Minvata is non-flammable.
3. Expanded polystyrene in slabs... It is used in the form of various modifications (penoplex, polystyrene). It is preferable to insulate the walls with penoplex. This fine-mesh material has greater strength and better thermal insulation properties than foam. Expanded polystyrene does not require vapor barrier, since it practically does not allow steam to pass through itself, but it needs waterproofing. In terms of its ability to retain heat, it surpasses basalt wool by about 1.5 times.
4. Penofol... It is a fine cellular polyethylene foam covered with aluminum foil. Available in rolls. In this case, it is worth using a 3 mm thick material with a one-sided coating to reflect heat radiation towards the room. Usually penofol is used for combined insulation, protecting the foam from moisture.

Insulation installation technology

In any case, the internal insulation of wooden walls begins with sealing joints logs or beams (warm seam).

After that, the dry inner surface of the walls is processed several times antifungal agents... Sheathing bars are also treated with these drugs. After complete drying, they begin to install the thermal insulation.

The walls are insulated in the following sequence:

1. Laying a vapor-water-tight membrane... The film is fixed on the beams or logs of the walls in a taut state using staples and a construction stapler. Neighboring panels are laid with an overlap of 15 cm wide. The edges of adjacent panels are glued with construction tape. This layer does not allow steam or water to pass through. Usually, a Megaspan B membrane is used for this, laying it with the rough side to the wall, and the smooth side to the insulation.
2. Installation of the lathing... To do this, you need bars with a cross section of 50 × 50 mm (the thickness is selected according to the thickness of the insulation layer, that is, with a two-layer laying of mineral wool, the cross section of the bar is 50 × 100 mm). The bars are screwed vertically to the wall with self-tapping screws. The distance between them is 2–3 cm less than the width of the mineral wool slab.
3. Placement of thermal insulation... Between the beams of the lathing, slabs of mineral wool are tightly inserted end-to-end. If 2 layers are mounted, then the plates of the upper layer should overlap the joints of the lower one. After laying, the surface of the slabs should be flush with the battens of the sheathing.
4. Securing the vapor-permeable membrane... A vapor-permeable membrane is stretched over the insulation. It is attached with a stapler to the lathing bars with an overlap of 15 cm. This film protects the mineral wool from water drops, but allows steam to pass freely. Usually Megaspan A membrane is used for this, which is laid with the fleecy side to the heat-insulating material.
5. Installation of lathing and finishing... The lathing for the heat-insulating material is built up horizontally with bars with a cross section of 50 × 50 mm, screwing them with self-tapping screws. Finishing material (wood panels, gypsum plasterboards) is attached to this crate.

Installation of expanded polystyrene plates slightly different in technology:

• laying a vapor-water-tight membrane on the wall is not required, since this material practically does not allow steam to pass through;
• over the expanded polystyrene, a vapor-water-tight membrane is fixed (Megaspan B with the smooth side to the insulation) or penofol with foil towards the room (15 cm overlap film, penofol end-to-end with gluing the joints with metallized tape).

Correctly mounted internal thermal insulation not enough to keep the walls of a wooden house warm. Internal insulation provides for reliable insulation of walls from steam penetrating into the wood from the room.

Previously, this steam escaped through the pores, but after warming, this path is blocked. This means that excess steam must now be removed. forced ventilation... This is best done with an air heating system. In it, forced ventilation and air heating are performed in one cycle.

Exhaust air with excess water vapor is removed from the room constantly. In such conditions, the accumulation of condensate in the insulation does not occur. At the same time, steam does not penetrate into the wood and does not moisturize it.

You can insulate a wooden house from the inside yourself. However, this method of thermal insulation requires some knowledge and strict adherence to the rules. If the technology is violated, the walls of the building quickly collapse.

The main condition for the preservation of walls with internal insulation - reliable vapor barrier. Vapors from the premises must not penetrate into dry wood.

Forced ventilation and air heating eliminate the accumulation of moisture in the insulation and the deterioration of the microclimate in the house, even in case of severe frosts.

Do-it-yourself master class on wall insulation with mineral wool in a wooden house, look at the video:

A video tutorial on the use of a warm seam for insulating a wooden house, see below:

Log houses are the warmest and most environmentally friendly. Wooden walls perfectly retain and accumulate heat and regulate the level of humidity. At every corner we hear that a wooden wall with a thickness of only 240 mm has the same thermal conductivity as a brick wall with a thickness of 1 m. Impressive, right? But there are situations when they built or bought a new log house, lived in it, and with the onset of the first severe cold weather, they realized that it was cool in the house and there were drafts. Then we seriously think about building insulation, even to the detriment of beauty. But there may be more banal situations: they bought an old wooden house, which has already been "worn out" and requires serious measures for insulation. So a serious question arises, how to insulate a log house, what materials can be used, and what absolutely cannot be done.

Why is it cold in a log house - a little theory

What are some of the most common problems faced by log home owners who complain about being cold in winter? First, there are drafts in the premises. Secondly, it blows on the legs. Third, the house cools down quickly if the heating is turned off. Fourth, the walls are too cold. And many accompanying nuances, from which it is concluded that the house must be urgently insulated, and it is imperative to start from the floor, since it is the coldest. Let's see what happens in the room when it is heated.

Imagine that we have a log house that we heat with some kind of heat source. What is involved in heat exchange with us: heat source, air, ceiling, walls and floor. How does this happen? Let's remember the school physics course. As the air heats up from a heat source, it rushes upward toward the ceiling. Resting on the surface of the ceiling, it spreads over it, giving off heat and cooling. As a result, we get a ceiling - the warmest surface in the room. Further, the air flow reaches the walls and goes down along them. Since our walls are much colder than the ceiling, the air cools down much faster, and its speed increases. Already the air has reached the floor, having fairly accelerated, and rushes along it with such speed that it creates the illusion of such a strong cold draft, as if there is no floor, and you are standing right on the snow.

If you place a heat source near the inner walls, as is usually done by heating with a fireplace or a portable radiator, then the rate of heat transfer increases significantly. There is a constant draft in the room, it turns out that we ourselves are to blame for the cold in the house.

It is not for nothing that there are norms that heating radiators should be under windows. The outer walls are initially the coldest, in contrast to the inner ones, which are quite inert. If the heat source is located near the outer wall, then the air will rise up, then again fall on the walls, but now it will not cool down at such a speed and not so quickly. After all, the inner walls are quite warm, so passing them, the air will not cool too much. And going down the outer walls, it will again rest against the heat source, where it will heat up and rise up. As a result: the room warms up faster, the structures keep heat better, as it accumulates and does not waste.

What needs to be checked to exclude unnecessary heat loss:

1. Ceiling... The very first outpost to check for leaks, as it can drain up to 70% of the heat. Be sure to insulate the attic or attic floor in order to retain the heat inside the room.
2. Walls... The second outpost is the outer walls and everything that is in them: windows, doors, etc. Incorrectly installed windows and doors are the scourge of log houses. The lion's share of the heat can go through them, without even having time to heat the room. Directly from the radiator and into the slots under / above the window. Plus, do not forget to check if the walls have been thoroughly bored, maybe there have already been cracks somewhere.
3. Floor... The last thing that can be a source of cold is the floor. It should be checked for serviceability and insulated in a standard way. Also for the winter, it is worth reducing the ventilation of the subfloor, blocking off most of the air vents.

I would also like to note that in order to make the heating of a log house of higher quality, it is possible to equip the house with "warm floors", in addition to the existing heating system. Then the warm air will be distributed more evenly throughout the room, due to which drafts near the floor will disappear and the house will cool down more slowly.

By the way, too thin walls can also cause cold in the house. For example, for a climate with cold, severe winters, but low humidity, walls with a thickness of 200 - 240 mm are sufficient. But for regions with wet winters, even with a temperature that does not fall below -20 ° C, it is advisable to use logs with a diameter of at least 400 mm, and preferably 480 mm. Such regions, for example, include Moscow and the Moscow region, St. Petersburg and the Leningrad region. Be sure to take this into account when developing a project for a log house, so that later it will not be excruciatingly painful.

What materials can be used to insulate a log house

The standard procedure for insulating a log house includes insulating the ceiling or attic, caulking the walls and insulating window and door frames, as well as insulating the floor. If everything is done correctly, then no additional measures are needed.

Taking into account the fact that log houses are being built in order to create a dwelling from natural, environmentally friendly materials, it would be foolish to use polystyrene for insulation. Then the whole point is lost.

For insulation of the attic log house can be used sawdust, ecowool(cellulose wool), seaweed, straw... As a last resort, you can insulate mineral wool.

Caulking the walls produced only with natural materials: moss, tow, hemp, jute, linen-based tape heaters and jute... The main requirement for the material is that it must have properties similar to wood.

For thermal insulation of a wooden floor on logs you can use natural backfill materials, or you can mineral wool in rolls. And here concrete floor will require a denser material, fit expanded polystyrene, extruded polystyrene foam, Cork and basalt wool in slabs with a density of more than 160 kg / m3.

If, after all the standard procedures, the house is cold, maybe because the thickness of the logs was incorrectly selected, maybe the house is already very old, or maybe the heating was incorrectly calculated, and you decided that without such a procedure as insulating the walls of a log house , not to do, then you should know some of the nuances.

The material that can be used to insulate log walls must have the following properties:

• Be vapor permeable on par with wood, or to a greater extent if it will be installed outside the building.
• Be moisture resistant so as not to accumulate moisture, which can lead to decay of the tree.
• Be fireproof and resistant to pathogenic fungi.
• Easy to breathe.
• Have a structure that is loose enough to fit snugly against a rounded log wall and leave no gaps.

Considering all of the above, to insulate a log house from the outside, you can use:

• Ecowool.

• Mineral wool (although it is unnatural, it is easy to install and generally available).
• Sawdust or sawdust-granules (backfill material).
• Expanded clay (backfill material).

Wood is an unusual building material. It not only "breathes", but is also a kind of air recuperator. And if someone assures you that the vapor permeability of wood across the fibers is slightly higher than that of reinforced concrete, you should know that you can object. Entering the thickness of the wood across the fibers, then the air is distributed along the fibers and exits through the end. In other words, the tree “breathes” with its ends.

Due to the fact that wooden walls are "living", such materials cannot be used:

• Styrofoam.
• Extruded polystyrene foam.
• Polyurethane foam.
• Polyurethane foam for sealing cracks.
• Sealants.

The use of vapor-proof materials will cause the wood to rot or, if you protect it from the inside with a vapor-proof foil, you will turn a wooden house into a thermos. In this case, the whole point of building a house from a log will be lost. But it's still up to you to choose.

How to insulate a log house from the outside

As we have already found out, it is necessary to insulate the walls of a log house only when all other insulation measures have not brought the desired result.

If you are interested in the question of how to properly insulate a log house from the outside or from the inside, then here is an unequivocal answer for you - outside... This is due to the properties of wood to breathe, accumulate moisture and give it away. In the case of an external location of the insulation, air and moisture will freely come out of the tree and erode.

It is possible to start insulation only after a year or a year and a half after the completion of the construction, when the blockhouse sits down.

Caulking log walls

Even if you have already made the final decision to insulate the house, the first step is to thoroughly bore it. We examine all the walls for visible cracks. Then, in calm weather, we walk through the house with a candle, holding it close to the walls. If the flame leans towards the wall, it means that there is a gap in this place, from which it blows in winter.

One of the most effective ways to find cracks in logs is to walk around and inspect all walls in winter when the house is heated. If you notice frost, it is also sometimes called a "bunny", which means that in this place there is a leak of heat from the room.

Caulking should be done in dry warm weather, using tow, jute, hemp or roll insulation. We put the material in the gaps between the crowns and push it with a special tool - caulking.

Ventilated facade construction

Insulation of a log house from the outside is carried out by installing a ventilated facade. This design allows the wooden wall to "breathe" and release moisture.

First, we treat the walls with an antiseptic and a fire retardant to protect the tree from fire and mold. On top of the walls we stuff a crate that will hold the insulation. For this we use a bar with a cross section of 50 mm. We fill it vertically with a step equal to the width of the insulation plates minus 2 - 3 cm.

As a heater, we will use mineral wool in slabs with a density of 35 - 50 kg / m3 and a thickness of 50 mm.

Important! When installing insulation on a log wall, we are faced with some inconvenience. The fact is that the wall is uneven, laying the insulation close to each other without gaps is almost impossible. Therefore, we put insulation in the gaps (openings) between the wall and the battens of the sheathing. To do this, you can use "Basaltin" in rolls or mezhventsovy insulation - jute, flax.

We insert mineral wool slabs between the crate, pushing them tightly into the opening. We do this from the bottom up.

On top of the insulation, we mount a windproof waterproofing superdiffusion membrane. It must have a vapor permeability of at least 1400 g / m2 per day or higher.

Important! Correctly selected wind protection for the ventilated facade of a log wall is almost the most important thing in insulation. This membrane will not let moisture and wind from the outside into the thickness of the insulation and walls, but at the same time it will release moisture and air from the inside to the outside, thus giving the walls the opportunity to "breathe".

On top of the windscreen, we fill a crate of 50 mm beams. We mount siding on the crate. It can be vinyl siding that imitates wood, or you can use a house block, then the wall will have the same log profile as the real one.

For the entire thickness of the batten (50 mm), a ventilation gap is formed between the membrane and the façade. Above and below, it is necessary to equip air vents so that the air can circulate freely.

How to insulate a log house from the inside

The option of insulating the house inside must be considered before performing a ventilated facade. Perhaps standard insulation measures will be enough, and you will not have to spoil the appearance of the walls.

The following procedures can be attributed to the insulation of a log house from the inside: insulation of the floor, ceiling, roof and walls. Moreover, experts are categorically against the installation of insulation inside the walls, since in this case the tree will damp and rot.

Insulation of the ceiling, roof

The first thing to do, as soon as we found out that the house is cold, we insulate the ceiling and roof.

If the house is one-story with an attic, then we lay a waterproofing film on the attic floor, pour insulation on top with a layer of 150 to 250 mm. It can be ecowool, sawdust, seaweed or ordinary mineral or glass wool in rolls. You do not need to cover the insulation. Boards can be laid on top for ease of movement in the attic, but the floor does not need to be equipped.

If the house has an attic floor instead of an attic, then it is necessary to insulate both the overlap between the floors and the roof slope. It is enough to put 50 - 100 mm of insulation (any) into the ceiling. If the floor of the attic is wooden, then we fill in the insulation between the logs. If the floor is concrete, then we use basalt wool in slabs or, in extreme cases, polystyrene. To insulate the roof slope, we lay a waterproofing film directly under the roof, then we lay the insulation (mineral wool) with a layer of 150-200 mm. On top of the insulation, we lay a vapor-tight membrane so that the material is not saturated with moisture from the room. We mount the lathing and finishing for the attic.

The above procedures should be enough to keep the house warmer.

Insulation of the walls of a log house

We pass to the walls. Since it is impossible to mount insulation inside the log walls, what we can do is to deeply dig in from the inside, insulate all window and door openings.

To insulate the openings, we use a roll mezhventsovy heater or, in extreme cases, mineral wool, but in no case blow out the cracks with foam, it will quickly become unusable, since the walls of a log house are constantly in motion, and foam is a non-plastic material.

To decorate the walls of a log house from the inside, you can upholster them with wooden clapboard. In this case, the insulation between the wall and the finish cannot be mounted. The house will become a little warmer due to the fact that the wall will have a slightly greater thickness, as well as air gaps on the side of the heated room between the flat clapboard and the curved surface of the log walls.

Insulation of the floor of a log house

In order for the floor in a wooden house to be warm, it must be equipped, observing all the technology of laying the floor on the ground. Backfilling, waterproofing and insulation are mandatory. If the floor is wooden, we put insulation between the logs with a layer of 100 - 150 mm. Above is the rough and final floor.

If the floor is concrete, then between the layer of "skinny" concrete and the main layer we put foam or extruded polystyrene foam in slabs 50 - 80 mm thick.

Before insulating a log house with a ventilated facade, equip the house with a "warm floor" system. Perhaps this will be more than enough to ensure a comfortable stay. Then you will not have to sew up beautiful log walls, because such houses are being built because of their primeval beauty. What's the use if the walls are covered with siding?

Thermal insulation of a log house is a whole range of measures. If everything is done correctly, start with the ceiling and roof, then thoroughly dig in the walls, insulate the windows and doors, the floor, there will be no need to sheathe the house from the outside. If that doesn't work, there is another way to keep warm in a log house, which is not described here, is to build a glazed veranda on the coldest side of the house, thereby expanding the area and creating an air barrier.

Regardless of how the material for heating wooden facade walls was chosen, it is important to pack it the day before work in order to take it back to its original shape. ... The implementation of thermal insulation is better in the warm season without precipitation per day

The implementation of thermal insulation is better in the warm season without precipitation per day.

Before proceeding with the installation of the heater, it is important to check the structure of the house due to defects requiring removal.

If the old finish does not meet the strength requirements, then the correct solution will be eliminated by subsequent cleaning of the facade walls of the house with compounds that protect them from fungi, bacteria and mold.

Considering that most wooden home heaters are wool based, it is important to protect the material from atmospheric moisture.

As an option, tiles can be made from roofing iron using a joint sealant.

The sheets on the base are better fixed with screws.

Vapor barrier nuances

Cork insulation retains heat very well and lends itself well to processing.

The presence of a vapor barrier in a wooden house is very important, since as a result of insulation, the wall is blocked between 2 heat-insulating layers. In this case, the degree of humidity in the room increases, since the walls arranged in this way are not able to breathe.

What to do in this case? A high-quality ventilation system saves, only with its help is it possible to effectively combat moisture. If you do not allow dampness on the walls, then you will avoid the occurrence of the process of decay of the tree.

Simply put, you need to equip a high-quality vapor barrier. It is performed using a special film, which is placed on the wall surface with its rough side towards the wooden surface.

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Used thermal insulation materials

The main characteristic of thermal insulation is the coefficient of thermal conductivity. Equally important when deciding on the choice of this or that material will be the flammability class and density.

Mineral wool

Non-combustible, fibrous material produced from melts of silicon and basalt rocks, slag residues of metallurgical production and their mixtures. It is produced in the form of rolls or mats of various densities.

When insulating vertical surfaces, it is more convenient to work with separate plates. The optimum density in this case should be in the range from 40 to 60 m³ / kg.

When using, the use of hydro and vapor barrier is mandatory. The wetting of the cotton contributes to a sharp decrease in thermal insulation properties.

Polyfoam and EPS

The structure of foamed insulation, which includes EPS and foams, is a large number of closed cells filled with air. This structure eliminates the need to use any additional protective layers. The difference between EPS, in comparison with foam, is in a denser and therefore more moisture-resistant structure.

When organizing work, you should stop your choice on low-combustible brands (G1 or G2). G4 is characterized by the release of pungent black smoke and burning droplets during combustion and is not allowed for use in wooden houses.

Insulation of walls from the inside of a wooden house

Minwatoi

As a rule, mineral wool in a roll or in the form of a "mat" is used to insulate the walls from the inside. To cope with the first, you will need 4-handed work, while the second is quite possible to cope on your own.

Laying is carried out from floor to ceiling, observing a tight fit so that the seams are not visible. If there are any gaps, then they need to be repaired, and then proceed with the laying of the next layer of "cake" - a layer of vapor barrier. It is necessary rather to protect mineral wool from the effects of the external environment of the room than walls.

The vapor barrier should be overlapped with a stapler so that there are no seams, and if there are any, then they should be immediately closed with tape.

After the work done, it is necessary to mount another crate, but the opposite of the first. It is on it that the topcoat will be attached.

Styrofoam

This material can also be attached to the crate, but there is an easier way that does not take up a lot of living space. The prepared and processed wall must be coated with a layer of glue and laid on it with foam sheets in dense rows.

After the adhesive base is completely dry, the boards can be fixed with nails, covered with gaps and proceed with the finishing.

In conclusion, the following conclusions can be drawn:

1. Internal insulation is not desirable, but acceptable if necessary.
2. There are materials suitable for these jobs.
3. Before proceeding with insulation, you need to properly prepare the walls.

If you do not have enough knowledge on the composition of the material and the correctness of its installation, you should consult with a specialist so that after years you will not regret wasted money. Even such a simple, at first glance, work as caulking the walls requires skills and attention, and without ventilation, the "life" of the building can be significantly reduced. All this should be thought about before insulating the interior walls of a wooden house.

Insulation of floors in a wooden house

In addition to the listed methods of insulation, which, as an option, are also suitable for floors, there are several more.

Warm floor

The system "Warm floor", using IR films, is an expensive pleasure, but at the moment it is the most optimal energy-saving option, which, moreover, creates a special coziness and comfort.

Backfill and jellied floors

Warming with expanded clay and pouring concrete are relevant for the floors of the first and basement floors. The advantages include good thermal insulation properties and affordable cost of materials.

There are also options for water and electric floors:

• installation of an electric floor in a wooden house,
• underfloor heating
• and a "dry" water heated floor.

Before starting work on internal insulation, it is recommended to consult with specialists. Perhaps there is a way to insulate the exterior of the facade, and then only work on the insulation of the floors will remain inside.

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Insulation technology from the inside with mineral wool

In order to secure the soft mineral wool to the wall, a frame will be required. In addition to insulation you will need:

1. Wooden bars on the frame.
2. Thin wooden lath.
3. Vapor barrier (polyethylene or glassine).
4. Finishing materials, depending on desire: OSB, drywall, fiberboard, PVC panels, etc.

Preparatory work

The preparatory stage includes a heat engineering calculation that will help you choose the thickness of the material for a specific wall that can keep the heat inside the room.

The area of ​​the surface to be insulated is calculated and the required amount of material is purchased (for convenience, you can draw a diagram of the house on which to apply the dimensions of all walls, subtract the area of ​​windows and doors from them).

The wall must be free of traces of previous finishing. Wallpaper, plaster, paint, etc. are removed.

All flaws and irregularities are putty. If the work is carried out on the base log wall, then all the cracks will be caulked. The vertical is checked.

The walls are treated with an antiseptic and dried.

Instructions

1. A waterproofing film is attached to the wall. It should be well stretched so that there is little space between it and the wall. The film joints must have an overlap of more than 10 cm.
2. A frame is assembled from boards or bars (arranged vertically). The width between the lags is slightly less than the width of the mineral wool.
3. Insulation is embedded, the roll should be tightly inserted into the gaps between the lags.
4. Another layer of film is shot from above to the lags. Additionally, it is pressed against the insulation using slats. Let the film be slightly longer and partially cover the floor and ceiling.

Soft rolled mineral wool is more suitable for the floor and ceiling, and it is better to take mineral slabs on the wall - a denser insulation.

1 Insulation of the walls of the country house from the inside

Before you start insulating walls in a wooden house with your own hands, you should thoroughly clean all surfaces from dust and dirt. If the house is made using timber, then thermal insulation can be provided with penoplex or mineral wool.

Before this, the wooden surfaces of the country house, including the surface of the ceiling, the ribs of the timber, the walls of the attic, and the inner surface of the roof, must be subjected to a detailed treatment using a special emulsion against insects. All the insulation work of a country wooden house, brought inside with your own hands, consists of:

• Caulking cracks in the walls of the attic, the surface of the ceiling and inside the roof as when insulating a house from aerated concrete outside;
• Creation of a vapor barrier for the floor using timber;
• Installation of the lathing;
• Laying insulation and ensuring the sealing of the roof of the country house;
• Creation of a ventilation system between the walls of the attic;
• Interior finishing works for the preparation of timber, ceiling and roof.

In addition, with the internal insulation of the walls of a wooden country house made from a bar with your own hands, you need to carefully monitor the state of the electrical wiring.

For example, if the walls of a country house are made using a bar, and the technology involves routing surface wiring on the walls of the attic, then it does not have to be separated from the wall surface.

To do this, it is enough to hide the wiring in special decorative covers. Inside them, the wiring will be safe.

How can you insulate a wooden house from the inside

After the walls are cleaned and the thermal insulation is prepared, it is necessary to caulk all existing cracks.

Caulking is carried out not only on the surface of the attic walls, but also on the inner surface of the roof. It is known that in the case when the house was erected using a bar, the floor, the walls of the attic and the inner surface of the roof are re-caulked only a year after the building was put into operation. .

In the case when people immediately began to live in a house with insulation of a log house outside, built from a bar, the drying of the ceiling, floor and inner surface of the roof will be much slower.

Based on this, it makes sense to carry out the second caulking in at least 2-3 years. By the way, for caulking the walls of a house made from a bar with your own hands, in most cases jute fiber is used.

After that, you should start insulating the walls with penoplex or minata. The inner surface of the ceiling and roof (in the attic) can also be insulated with penoplex with your own hands.

Thermal insulation of a wooden house, or what you should know about the technology of heating a log house from the inside

To avoid this, you need to understand some of the intricacies of indoor insulation and follow the correct technology. First, the dew point shift should be taken into account: when insulating walls from the outside, it is located on the outside of the walls, while when insulating inside, it shifts to the inner side of the wall. It is this factor that contributes to an increase in dampness and accelerated destruction of wood, which was mentioned above. Also, a shift in the dew point entails the soaking of the insulation, which negates its useful properties. This is especially true of the slackness.

In order to prevent this, it is necessary to use a vapor-proof film that will protect the insulation from condensation. However, its use entails a new problem - the greenhouse effect. There is also a solution for this problem - the technology of installing insulation provides for ventilation slots in the structure.

This is done by installing the lathing - wooden rails around the entire perimeter of the insulated surface. It is not difficult to do this with the necessary set of tools and with your own hands. Also, the lathing serves for reliable fixation of the insulation and the subsequent installation of the cladding. It is also worth considering the ventilation system in advance, since all natural cracks in the walls will be sealed during the process of insulation.

Installation of insulation and work on its sealing

Insulation scheme for a sub-floor in a wooden house.

Having installed the crate, they begin to lay the mineral wool. To begin with, the roll is untwisted and a strip of mineral wool is cut off in height. The width of the strip should be 2 cm greater than the vertical gap between the bars.

Then a piece of mineral wool is placed between the bars, fixing it to the wall surface using anchors with round large caps. This type of work requires the presence of a partner who will help hold or fix the cotton wool.

After filling the inter-lattice space with mineral wool, a second layer of insulation is attached in one layer over the bars. A layer of hydrofilm is attached to the cotton wool, applying corrugation to the insulation. In addition to the function of protecting against moisture, the film will fulfill another purpose here - to prevent small particles of mineral wool from entering the space of a wooden house.

Creation of a ventilation system

As mentioned above, after carrying out work on the internal insulation of a log house, the humidity inside it will increase significantly.

Vapor barrier scheme for the walls of a wooden house.

To ensure a normal microclimate, it is necessary to provide forced ventilation in all rooms.

It is unacceptable to install direct hoods outside. It is necessary to create a duct system connected in one circuit. Any axial fan of medium and even low power can act as a blower. In winter, it will be enough to turn on a home-made ventilation device for half an hour a day to create optimal humidity in the premises.

Wall decoration

After attaching the second layer of the vapor barrier film, the walls begin to be finished. The film is pinned to the bars using a stapler and staples, which will make it possible to attach 30x40 mm strips to the film over the staples. These slats are commercially available.

Having mounted such a block, it is used for sheathing with a wooden clapboard with a pronounced texture. Thermal insulation of the house, followed by clapboarding, will not lose the original look of the interior made of wood. Instead of lining, you can install a horizontal plank, which will also be quite a good solution, since this material looks like a small bar in appearance.

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If we still insulate from the inside

Despite the obvious fact that it is technically easier for us to insulate a room from the inside, this option has not become widespread. There are several well-reasoned reasons for this. And the reduction in area is not the worst here.

What points should be taken into account

The walls, insulated inside, do not really warm up, and temperature drops lead to a situation where, due to the effect of a temperature drop, the dew point moves into the heat-insulating layers, i.e. into the insulation, as a result of which it becomes damp in the room and sometimes condensation of water vapor even settles on the walls, which can provoke a fungus that is destructive for a wooden house, and mold will appear. The vapor barrier device with the help of a film helps to partly save the situation, but in this case, so that you do not have the feeling that you are living in a plastic bag, you need to take care of effective forced ventilation in the room in advance.
Undesirable consequences can be avoided by significantly increasing the thickness of the insulation, which usually causes resistance from home owners, because the living area is significantly reduced due to this.

Internal insulation scheme

Insulating a house from the inside requires a certain sequence of steps. In the diagram: 1. Vapor barrier system; 2. Thermal insulation; 3. Waterproofing; 4. Clapboard sheathing.

Other ways to insulate a wooden floor

Floor insulation scheme with mineral wool.

You can insulate a house from the inside using various methods. The simplest and most economical single system of floor insulation. At the same time, there is no need to erect a rough and a final floor. In this case, the insulation will be carried out directly on the foundation or on the strapping. At the first stage, the base of the floor is covered with a free-flowing mixture based on sand and gravel. The thickness of the layer is about 2 cm. Rolls of roofing material are laid on it, and on them again a sand-gravel mixture. These materials will provide good waterproofing properties. Then a plastic wrap is attached to the base of the floor with a stapler.

The next step is to install the insulation. For these purposes, it is recommended to use penoplex. It is laid in the form of plates in one layer. Fiber boards are placed on it in 2 layers. After that, the installation of the finished floor is carried out. You can also insulate the floor with an electric cable. Today, electrically heated flooring is quite common. But at the same time, one must remember that such insulation is not fire safe, especially for a wooden house. Therefore, we will not consider it in detail.

How to insulate wooden houses inside

Most often, houses from a bar inside are insulated with various types of construction wool - basalt (mineral), fiberglass and others. These are lightweight and affordable materials, environmentally friendly. The industry produces rolled and block types of cotton wool.

Basalt wool retains heat well, but allows air to pass through. Thanks to this quality, fungus and mold do not appear in the rooms.

Rolled basalt wool

Glass wool absorbs a lot of moisture, therefore, in order to avoid the appearance of condensation, an additional layer of waterproofing is made for it. The big disadvantage of glass wool is its complex structure. The material is saturated with a large number of glass microparticles (hence the name). When working with cotton wool, they get into the respiratory organs, on clothes. For safe handling of glass wool, special clothing and a respirator are required.

All types of cotton wool are easy to install. To install a heat insulator made of such a material, no high qualifications are required. Roll types of cotton wool have high plasticity, but they are less dense in comparison with block ones. When working with roll materials, you can cut off the required amount of insulator. Tiled ones are made of the same size, therefore, during the installation of the lathing, the sizes of the pieces are taken into account.

Cotton wool slabs

Warming of wooden walls is also carried out with polystyrene or expanded polystyrene.

Expanded polystyrene popular due to its low cost. In addition, it is easy to work with and it retains heat well. It is a good sound insulator. The disadvantage is the release of toxic substances by the material during combustion.

How heat loss occurs in a wooden house

The walls of a wooden house have natural gaps and crevices that must be repaired

The process has a specific algorithm. In general, wood itself is an excellent thermal insulation material. Walls made of wood, due to its natural structure, freely "breathe", perfectly storing heat and creating the most favorable microclimate for people in the dwelling. And yet the heat goes away - through the joints, the gaps between the joints, as well as through the corners, cuttings, doors and windows. In addition, over time, materials give natural shrinkage under the wobbling of different, incl. weather, factors. Additional gaps and crevices are formed. So the natural mobility of the tree, being its advantage, turns into a disadvantage when it comes to tightness. So there is a need for thermal insulation of all fistulas that have arisen.

How to properly insulate a wooden house in the interior

In the event of a major overhaul and heating of the walls of an old house, it is necessary to clean them from flowers or old backgrounds to a "live" panel.

Heating takes place according to the following scheme:

• cleaning the wall;
• wood processing with antiseptics;
• dew point detection;
• steam barrier laying;
• laying of heat-insulating material;
• external finishing.

Depending on the material used, the outer surface is immediately decorative or intermediate - for example, gypsum plasterboards, which are then painted or tapped.

What materials are needed for internal wall insulation

For complete, technically correct thermal insulation, you will need:

• antiseptic for wood;
• vapor barrier film;
• bar or metal profile for the box;
• direct heater;
• material for outdoor decoration.

For outdoor processing, the most popular drywall, the optimal combination of price and comfort when working with it, this material is becoming the most popular among the finishing.

In addition, it has a negative flammability, which is important for a wooden structure. ... Find out more about internal plaster processing

Find out more about internal plaster processing.

Manufacturers of building materials and building materials offer various modern materials as heaters, including expanded polystyrene and OSB (oriented particle board).

In photodirectional chipboard for internal insulation

Expanded polystyrene is a type of foam produced by a special technology, a convenient and inexpensive universal insulation (see.

also for external insulation with expanded polystyrene).

The tool will require a drill or screwdriver, a stapler for fixing the vapors, measuring tape and level.

Pros and cons of internal insulation

A wooden house is usually insulated from the outside, but what if the construction is completed in the rainy season or there is no way to insulate outside? In this case, use the internal one. But this installation has a number of disadvantages that should be taken into account before work:

1. The area of ​​the rooms inside the log house will be reduced by the width of the insulation structure.
2. If installed incorrectly, the microclimate in the room will be disturbed. Excessive humidity will appear in the premises, and as a result, mold and mildew.

The advantages of such insulation:

1. Work from the inside can be performed at any time of the year and at any temperature.
2. With internal insulation, you can keep the appearance of the facade natural.
3. Ease of installation as opposed to finishing a wooden facade.
4. Internal insulation is cheaper.

But before insulating the walls of a log house, you need to determine the reason for their freezing. Experts note several factors affecting freezing:

1. The outer heat insulator has not been installed correctly or an insufficiently thick layer has been selected.
2. The timber or log was naturally wet and did not dry out enough. When dry, cracks appeared in the wall.
3. The installation of the links was carried out without observing the technology, and the masonry was disturbed.

Before internal insulation, you need to try to eliminate these reasons as much as possible.

Material selection

Basically, materials are used from the inside: plaster, mineral wool and foam. These materials are most suitable due to their low thermal conductivity and ease of installation. Let's make a reservation right away that it is not recommended to insulate the walls from the inside with glass wool. Its particles move easily through the air and can cause serious complications in the respiratory system.

Consider the pros and cons of plaster, mineral wool and polystyrene:

Warm plaster is mainly used in old houses. This method of internal insulation is laborious, but cheap. and mineral wool is easier, albeit more expensive. With all this, the use of foam from the inside will make it possible to save part of the area, since its thermal conductivity is low (materials are used thinner). But because of its ease of fire, it is not safe to use it inside a wooden house.

Professionals tell more about the material for internal insulation in the video:

How does internal insulation work?

Do-it-yourself insulation of walls, floor, ceiling, roof and foundation occurs in a wooden building in different ways.

Before insulating the walls and ceiling, you must first seal all the cracks with tow or felt. You can choose for this and other materials.

All wood must be treated with antiseptic agents to prevent rotting and infection of the tree.

From above, all this is covered with a vapor barrier, making small allowances around the edges. The last stage of finishing the walls is finishing them with plasterboard.

In a private house made of wood, it is imperative to insulate not only the walls, but also the floors. Floor insulation is a laborious process, but quite feasible.

It is quite possible to finish the floor in a private house on your own, it will help insulate the room, but usually it takes a few centimeters of the room's height.

To insulate the floor of an old house, first level the concrete base, remove various defects. Then the concrete is covered with waterproofing, which will protect the floor from moisture.

The free space between the logs is filled with floor insulation, which can be used as mineral wool.

The material should fit snugly between the lags. Next, a layer of insulation is covered with PVC film, after which the floor is finished with chipboard or plywood.

In most cases, insulation is also required for the foundation of a wooden house. For thermal insulation of the foundation, expanded clay and foam plates are most often used.

Insulation of the foundation with expanded clay is a previously common method that is best used for thermal insulation of the subfloor, the inside of the foundation and the space under the floors.

Warming the foundation in this case consists in creating a pillow that absorbs excess moisture and creates additional air space.

This method of thermal insulation of the foundation is based on the thermal insulating properties of the air, which is located between the granules of the insulation. Thanks to this insulation of the foundation, the house does not freeze from below.

To insulate the foundation and the underground, a trench is made along the house, the foundation is cleaned, repaired if necessary, and waterproofed.

To insulate the basement part of the foundation and subfloor, insulation materials in the form of slabs or plastering are used.

You can decorate the foundation and basement with foam plates. The slabs can be of any thickness, so you can finish the basement with such a thick insulation that will allow you to achieve maximum insulation.

The lack of polystyrene and polystyrene is the flammability of the material, however, it is quite acceptable to insulate the basement or basement with them.

To insulate a basement or foundation with your own hands, first you need to prepare the surface: scrape off the remnants of soil and dirt, bitumen and oil. If necessary, the surface is repaired and then covered with a coating waterproofing.

Glue is dotted on the plates in several places and glued to the base, pressing slightly. The glue dries for about two days, after which the underground part of the foundation can be filled up.

To insulate the plinth, the foam layer is insulated from the wood, for example, with glass wool. After the glue on the insulation layers hardens, you need to additionally strengthen all the layers with dowel nails.

In recent years, it is possible to insulate the foundation and basement of the house with the help of polyurethane foam.

This technology consists in spraying a special heat-insulating material on a wooden surface.

Special preparation of the base is not required, it is enough just to clean the wood and repair it in the right places. It is possible to insulate the foundation and basement in this way both from the outside and from the inside.

The process of heating walls from the inside of a wooden house

First, the walls are cleaned (the damaged parts of the wood are removed), then the walls must be treated with an environmentally friendly antiseptic.

In specialized stores, their choice is sufficient, the average order value is 1000-1500 rubles per 10 liters.

This range is sufficient for processing 100 square meters of surface.

After processing, you must calculate the dew point in accordance with a special program and, according to these calculations, indicate your location on the wall after installing the fan.

Then you need to install a vapor barrier.

This must be done - the steam lock protects the wooden façade from condensation that occurs when hot and cold air comes into contact.

A non-perforated film is used to insulate the steam wall, which is available in rolls, especially in the case of steam jet insulation.

The film is attached to the wall with a stapler.

Then a strip is formed along the level with a distance equal to the width of the insulating sheet. The thermal insulation is then tightly inserted between the vertical profile.

The last stage is the fixation of the gypsum boards.

This insulation will help to significantly reduce the cost of heating your home in winter and cool the summer.

How much does it cost to invite a team of end players?

In each region, their prices, mainly end caps, are per square meter of each layer.

But if you calculate on average, the cost per square meter of internal wall insulation is about 500-600 rubles.

That's not a lot if you think the professionals will do a good job and keep the house warm for years without any additional repairs.

How to attach a heater to a wooden wall

The connection of the heater to the wooden wall can be done when the structure starts to work and at the stage of finishing the facade.

Both options are acceptable, the main thing is to choose the correct heating material and work according to the installation technology.

Insulation of the walls of a wooden house

If you decide to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside, you need to know what, in this case, on the walls can condensation... This is especially true in the northern parts of the world, where it is very cold in winter and warm in the rooms. This happens due to the effect of a temperature difference, during which the dew point moves into the layers of insulation. You can fix this situation film, which is used together with insulation, or provide good ventilation.

Required inventory

• Jigsaw, impact drill, screwdriver, mallet, tape measure, level, plumb lines, chisel, screwdriver, hammer.
• Wooden beams.
• Felt, foam or tow.
• Material for wall insulation, for example, glass wool.
• Drywall.
• Putty.

Modern materials for thermal insulation of walls

• Ecowool- this material perfectly fills all the cracks and voids in the walls, at the same time preventing blowing through the walls. It does not allow moisture to penetrate inside, thereby preventing the appearance of fungal infections. One of the few breathable materials.
• Glass wool- having chosen this material in insulation, you should take care of the thermal insulation in the room, since glass wool lets in a small amount of moisture, as a result of which the thermal insulation qualities deteriorate.
• Expanded polystyrene- one of the most common materials for wall insulation in wooden houses. First of all attracts with its cheapness... Also, positive qualities are elasticity and lightness. The material has heat and sound insulating qualities.

Wall insulation technology

All cracks in the wall must be sealed with foam, linen felt or tow. You can choose any material with which it is more convenient to work. We make a crate from a wooden bar. We place a place for installing the edge elements of the crate

Special attention should be paid to this, it depends on the first beams how smoothly the next ones will be fastened, so use a level and plumb lines for certification.

If the definition of the first bar is completed, you should fix it with screws and dowels. Should be fixed every 25-30 cm. Then we measure 1 meter from the first timber and fasten the second in the same way parallel to the first, etc. until the full perimeter of the lathing is formed on the entire wall. If there are window openings on the way, they should be knocked out in a circle with bars.

Each bar must be treated with antiseptics to prevent rotting and the appearance of fungi. The crate is ready. Insulation should be placed between the bars. You do not need to use glue in this case, the material will already stick tightly between the crate and the wall.

Making isolation... Used for vapor barrier film or polyethylene, it is applied over the insulation with small allowances at the edges.

The last stage is finishing

We sheathe the walls with plasterboard, fasten it to the lathing made of beams, it is important that the slabs fit snugly together. If cracks appear, they should be putty

Thermal insulation of wooden walls from the inside

Thermal insulation of a building made of wood takes place in several stages. The progress of work with different insulation will look different. Since at the moment mineral wool is considered the most common insulation, we will tell you how to insulate the walls of a house with your own hands.

Stages of warming the walls of the house with your own hands:

1. The first step is to clean the wooden walls from dirt. The old finish layer, if any, is removed. A bare and clean wall is treated with antiseptics.
2. Next, you need to caulk the walls. If this is a new house, then caulking occurs a year after the construction, if they lived in it, then after three. Caulking involves stuffing material, such as jute, into the crevices between the logs. The work is done using a thin chisel.
3. Installation of moisture insulation is in progress. For this, a vapor barrier sheet is taken, and applied with the rough side to the logs, after which it is nailed with a construction stapler. The joints between the segments of such a canvas should overlap by 15 cm, nor should they be glued with tape.
4. Now is the time to make the crate. To do this, you need to take a wooden beam 5X5 cm, and make a crate out of it, placing the elements with a step of 50-60 centimeters.
5. Layers of mineral wool are embedded in the resulting crate. They are attached with a construction stapler. After installing mineral wool, it must be covered with a layer of waterproofing material.
6. At the last stage, the structure is sewn up with plasterboard. After this, the face finish takes place.

Warming of the year follows the same principle. Of course, we presented a short diagram of house insulation, but in principle, all the necessary steps can be done using it.

Thermal insulation of walls from the inside of a wooden house in various ways

"Warm seam" for insulation inside a wooden house

To maintain complete environmental friendliness, you can replace the sealants with jute, felt or linen tape and seal the seams with them.

The cost of caulking seams inside the house is from 120 to 250 rubles per running meter.

This is a very affordable price even for families on a small budget. Therefore, it is recommended to invite specialists to insulate the log house, only they can guarantee the high quality of work.

Mineral wool

Universal insulation, which is often used outside. Affordable cost and high thermal insulation performance make this material the most popular among developers.

The insulation technology is the same for walls and ceilings.

Positive properties of mineral wool:

• high environmental friendliness, especially in modern materials, where formaldehyde is replaced with safer components;
• affordable cost - the material is considered the cheapest option for insulation inside a wooden house;
• good thermal insulation and noise insulation performance;
• incombustibility;
• durability - the material does not rot, is not susceptible to fungal diseases;
• good indicators of vapor permeability, which, by the way, is both an advantage and a disadvantage.

Negative properties include:

• the same vapor permeability, due to which a microclimate unfavorable for human lungs can be created inside the room;
• shrinkage when wet;
• the need to sheathe the walls with facing material (create a false wall).

Features of mineral wool insulation of walls and ceilings of a wooden house

Unlike external insulation, inside the material is glued directly to the wall, then it is sheathed with vapor barrier.

It is best to use a special vapor barrier that allows air from the room to pass outside.

This will create additional natural ventilation for the insulation. Even if it gets wet, the cotton wool can dry out due to the permeability properties of the vapor barrier.

A crate, a bar or a metal profile is installed on the vapor barrier (you can also under it), on which the facing material, drywall, board, lining, imitation of a bar, and so on are already attached.

Expanded polystyrene

Polymeric material based on foam, but without chemically harmful components.

Suitable for insulation inside a wooden house.

In the photo - extruded foam polystyrene "Penoplex"

The advantages include good thermal insulation properties, low weight, durability and moisture resistance.

When choosing this material, you may come across such concepts as expanded and extruded polystyrene foam.

In fact, it is the same material, the only difference is in the methods of its manufacture.

The main features of insulation with expanded polystyrene are the need for careful leveling of the surface and sealing the seams between the sheets. Old boards must be cleaned of irregularities and roughness, but the material is not suitable for a log house at all.

The joints between the sheets of material are foamed and cleaned after the foam dries.

Just like mineral wool, expanded polystyrene is suitable for insulating not only walls, but also ceilings.

Polyurethane foam

Material of the future, which is applied in liquid form with a special apparatus. For insulation with polyurethane foam, it is necessary to mount a frame, which is filled with foam under pressure. It quickly hardens and forms a monolithic protective layer of insulation.

Spraying polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam will reliably protect the house not only from cold and external noise, but also provide additional guarantees of safety in case of fires.

The disadvantages include the complexity of finishing work after insulation with this material.

It needs to be plastered using a special mesh.

Surface preparation for insulation

The first stage of insulation work involves the preliminary preparation of surfaces.

When working on laying heat-insulating material, it is necessary to protect the respiratory system and eyes from the ingress of fine dust and other substances.

First, clean all surfaces of the walls from dirt and dust. And then you can proceed to the careful processing of wooden walls with a special compound that protects the tree from the reproduction of insects. It is very good if the composition you choose will additionally perform a function that prevents the process of decay of wooden surfaces, and protect it not only from moisture, but also from the danger of fire.

And yet, at the same stage, you need to take care of the safety of electrical wiring. If there is a variant of its surface location, then it must be separated from the wall. Close up the cracks

After completing all the above procedures, you can proceed to the second stage of insulation. It provides for the implementation of work to eliminate the existing cracks. They must be carefully caulked. Many people know that after a house from a bar is built, it is necessary to carry out an additional procedure to eliminate cracks, after about 1 year.

Naturally, this is done if the house remained uninhabited. During the operation of the premises, the re-caulking of the cracks can be carried out later, after about 3 years. What is the best way to seal the cracks? Usually, a material such as jute fiber is used for these purposes.

From the tools you will need a chisel, preferably wide and rather thin. For cracks of an especially large size, a tape tow is used, which, before being placed in the gap, is twisted in the form of a roller. It is necessary to fill the slots until the material used is no longer placed in them.

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Before insulating the house from the inside, we suggest looking at some tips that will allow you to do this in the most efficient way. These instructions are based on the experience of professional craftsmen.

A wooden house cannot be insulated in the first year after its construction. This time is enough for the building to settle and take on a constant size.

Wall insulation has some nuances. You will have to spend a little time studying them, but as a reward you will receive a high-quality insulated building.

DIY home insulation tips:

1. The walls of a structure made of wood, insulated on both sides, can rot and damp. A well-designed ventilation system will help prevent such a problem.
2. Even if it seems to you that the wall is freezing in only one place, it’s early to insulate all the walls in the house at once.
3. Places behind the batteries must be insulated with foil material. This will allow more heat to enter the room.
4. Some space must be left between the insulation and the wall. So the thermal insulation of the walls will not affect their moisture content.
5. Before starting insulation work, treat the walls with a moisture-repellent compound. This way you can avoid the side effects of internal insulation.

You can use foam to insulate the walls of the house from the inside.

It is necessary to insulate the walls of the building from the inside correctly. Otherwise, you will not only be unable to maintain heat, but also provoke its faster loss.

Correct stuff

When the theoretical part is completed, it is time to move on to practice. And for this, first of all, you need to choose the right insulation.

Requirements put forward to it:

• Low thermal conductivity;
• Compliance with fire safety requirements;
• Strength and durability;
• Environmental friendliness, safety.

The way in which we will insulate the house also directly depends on the material chosen.

1. Insulation - slabs of mineral wool or basalt wool. An old proven way to make your home warmer. It is worth choosing it for such qualities as high sound and heat insulation, environmental friendliness, incombustibility. Minus - the material is not very durable, however, for this, the enclosing structure is being erected. Another nuance: this insulation is extremely hygroscopic, therefore it requires an additional layer of vapor barrier.
2. Polyfoam (polystyrene plates). It is this insulation that modern builders do not recommend using, because this material is not environmentally friendly, it emits styrene. No matter how breathable and useful the tree from which you built your house, such wall insulation will nullify all the usefulness. If this material burns, it will release even more dangerous substances: toluene diisocyanate and hydrogen cyanide. True, this is only in the case of using non-pressed polystyrene foam. If you are going to insulate the walls in a wooden house with extruded foam with a flammability class G1, this option can be considered possible. Installation, as in the previous case, implies the presence of a building envelope.
3. Glass wool. Almost the first thing that comes to mind when you think about how to insulate a wooden house from the inside. The material is very popular, because it costs even less than basalt wool, and at the same time has a higher thermal conductivity. Please note: inside a wooden house for insulation, you can only take glass wool that was specially produced for this, this is a special variety. You will also need an extra layer of film. Surely you know that glass wool particles are harmful to health, so arm yourself with special protection during installation. Sheathing is also required.
4. Izoplat is already a product of modern production. This is a pressed flax fiber on a fibreboard. Thickness - from 1.2 to 2.5 cm. The material is very durable, therefore it does not require the construction of the enclosing structure, while it is environmentally friendly, indicated for use inside residential buildings. There are also disadvantages: lower heat content and higher price. So choose for yourself based on your priorities.
5. Polyurethane spraying. As the name implies, the material is sprayed onto the surface using special equipment, which makes the process more expensive. But the crate is not needed.

References for budgeting

As you can see from the description, we are facing a fairly large-scale project. That is why it is worthwhile to approach it responsibly, and most importantly, to draw up a sufficiently detailed budget.

Medium density mineral wool slabs are a versatile (although not cheap) material

The reference materials in the table will help you with this:

Material	unit of measurement	Average cost, rubles
Mineral wool ISOVER 1200x600x100 mm	packing 4 pcs.	1400 -1700
Insulation ROCKWOOL 800x600x50 mm	packing 4 pcs.	650 - 800
Jute sealant 10 cm	m.	8 - 10
Butyl rubber cord 8 mm	m.	12 -16
Warm joint sealant	3 Kg	1400 -1600
Caulk moss	bag 10 kg	300 - 450
Windproof membrane for walls ROCKWOOL	70 m2	1500 - 1700
Vapor barrier film	70 m2	670 - 750
Bituminous mastic	20 Kg	350 - 500
Universal antiseptic	5 l	450 - 600
Fire-retardant composition Woodmaster KSD	10 l	550 - 600
Pinotex Impra impregnation	10 l	4800 -5200
Polyfoam PSB-S 25, 1000x1000x50 mm	sheet	170 – 220
Expanded polystyrene sheet, 1250x600x50 mm	sheet	180 – 220
Wooden beam for the frame, 6 m	PCS.	90 – 180
Larch block house, 22x90 mm	1 m2	650 - 1200
Lining for wall cladding	1 m2	250 – 400
Drywall moisture resistant	sheet	300 - 450

From the inside, we sheathe the insulated structures with clapboard or similar material

Some techniques for performing thermal insulation of a wooden structure from the inside

Depending on the materials used and the methods of work, today there are several techniques for thermal insulation of wooden walls from the inside of the room.

Warm seam

The technology of wall insulation "warm seam" is the sealing of joints, seams.

A warm seam is used when the wall masonry is not planned to be finished with various decorating plasters. This method reduces the thermal conductivity of masonry joints and wall joints. The material is directly placed between the beams of the wall.

For this, synthetic sealants are used (acrylic, silicone, bitumen-rubber, latex); more traditional methods can be used. These are natural sealants - flax, linen rope, tow.

Advantages:

• insulation can be done with your own hands, since there is nothing complicated in the technique of execution;
• the method is profitable from an economic point of view;
• without disturbing the beauty of wooden masonry, it is able to increase the thermal insulation characteristics of the wall;
• differs in throughput, which favorably affects the microclimate in the room and the durability of the protective structure.

Mineral wool insulation

Mats made of mineral (basalt) fiber, glass wool or slag fiber are used as insulation. This material is characterized by excellent thermal insulation properties, is able to absorb noise, and consists of environmentally friendly components. However, since it has a fibrous structure, it is able to pass steam through itself and accumulate water in itself, therefore the presence of a waterproofing and vapor barrier layers when insulating wooden walls from inside the room is mandatory.

Stages of work:

1. all cracks and cracks in the masonry are closed. To do this, you can use various synthetic sealants. It is imperative to treat the wall with an antiseptic;
2. the organization of the lathing. Consists of two parts. The first transverse lathing. It is made of metal profiles that are spaced 80 cm apart and across the log masonry. The second part is a counter-lattice. It is carried out from the same profiles, at the same distance, only along the masonry. The lathing will allow the insulation to be attached to the wall surface and provide a ventilated gap. Its main purpose is to remove excess steam with streams of constant circulating air and prevent condensate from forming;
3. installation of insulation. It is better to use mineral wool in the form of mats, since such a structure is able to withstand significant mechanical loads without compromising its thermal insulation characteristics. The insulation is not glued to the surface of the walls; it fits between the sheathing profiles. The joints should not be more than 2 mm wide. They are sealed with special adhesive tapes;
4. vapor barrier. It should overlap and with a small allowance, in this way it will not tear as a result of thermal expansion of the material;
5. finishing. It is attached to the metal profile, and if the lags were used as fasteners, then to them. It can be fiberboard, chipboard, drywall, lining.

Insulation of the walls of a wooden house with polystyrene foam

It is very rare to insulate the walls with foam plastic of a wooden house from the inside.

This method is used very rarely due to the formation of condensation, since the foam is a vapor-proof material. However, in the presence of a properly organized waterproofing and vapor barrier layers, this technique is able not only to protect the walls of a building from the cold, but also to provide a pleasant microclimate in it.

In addition, the advantage is the low cost of the material itself. Polyfoam is easy to install, therefore it will not be difficult to insulate a wooden house on its basis with your own hands. Due to its low thermal conductivity with a small thickness of insulation, you can significantly save usable space at home.

they are also carried out with liquid thermal insulation mixtures (ecowool, polyurethane foam, wet plaster). If the last method has been used for a long time, then the first two have recently appeared in construction and have not yet found widespread use. Although the advantages of this technique of wall insulation are obvious. This is the formation of a seamless layer, ease of spraying, insulation does not need steam and water protection.

Where to begin

Initially, you need to determine the type of wood from which the house is made, because there are heat-insulating rocks, and therefore costs can be reduced. The main thing is to identify the shortcomings and eliminate them, usually the appearance of cracks, improper insulation, cracking of logs.

After identifying the shortcomings and determining the range of work, they begin to warm the walls. In this case, the owners have a choice of which side of the wall to insulate: internal or external. easier, although the outdoor option has its advantages, sometimes the best way out of this situation is to combine the two methods.

The key to success is to correctly observe the technology of fastening the material and protect it from moisture. You can do the work with your own hands, because the process itself is not technically difficult.

1. Without creating a competent ventilation system, wooden walls hidden under the vapor barrier on both sides can begin to rot and damp. It is best to provide ventilation for a wooden house right away and make it a single scheme for ventilation. And for injection use any axial fan. Working 30 minutes a day during heating seasons, such ventilation will keep the walls in perfect condition. If you do not have sufficient knowledge about this work, read a few articles or watch a thematic video, which is not difficult to find on the net.
2. If only a small part of the wall began to freeze, then you need to insulate everything around the perimeter at once.
3. Foil insulation can be used to insulate places under batteries and radiators. It is thinner. It should be laid with foil to the radiator, so it will become an excellent heat reflector.
4. It is better to leave a small space between the insulation and the wooden wall. This way, excess moisture will be better drawn out, and the walls will not be flooded.

When choosing any material, it is worth calculating the area of ​​the interior several times, so you will not get too much. Before work, once again carefully watch the thematic videos on the network, and re-read the step-by-step work. And having completed the insulation of the walls, do not neglect the same processing of the ceiling. Otherwise, the heat will go through the roof or half of the second floor, and the work done will be useless.

The choice of insulation

How to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside? There is always a high percentage of humidity in a residential building. People breathe, prepare food, etc. Moisture gets on building materials and penetrates them.

After all, one of the main requirements is to let the tree "breathe", getting rid of condensation.

If the same is done with internal insulation, the steam will reach the wooden walls and condense in front of them or inside them.

In winter it will be freezing, and in summer it will be damp.

Therefore, for internal insulation, on the contrary, it is better to use sealed materials.

The problem of removing humid stagnant air must be solved!

If the walls are sheathed with a hermetic insulation, you just need to take care of good supply and exhaust ventilation.

Consider the options:

Styrofoam

The first one comes to mind because it is inexpensive, keeps you warm well and is practically impenetrable. But it is not recommended to make walls from it inside, due to its flammability.

Styrofoam in a matter of seconds turns into a molten mass, which gives off pungent smoke and drips. They are strictly forbidden to insulate ceilings, and walls - at their own peril and risk.

Extruded polystyrene foam

EPPS is Penoplex, Thermoplex and others.

The same foam, but made using a different technology.

Here it is, it resists fire much better.

In addition, its compression density is higher, which means that there will be no need to be afraid of dents on the wall. The price is higher than that of polystyrene, but the simplest safe installation pays for it.

Mineral wool

Good insulation, fire resistant, affordable, but completely waterproof. If glass wool, basalt wool (or any other) absorbs moisture, its thermal insulation properties will drop to almost zero.

Building a bag of mineral wool wrapped in polyethylene is also not the best solution, because when fastening, holes in the film will still be obtained, and installation is troublesome, but for lack of better options, they use the technology.

Sprayed materials

Spraying materials are gaining popularity, such as:

• polyurethane foam;
• penoizol;
• ecowool.

They have excellent thermal insulation properties, are non-flammable or belong to the middle category of flammability, rather small in thickness.

The disadvantage of such materials is their high cost. Requires professional equipment and a team with special skills.

Other heaters

The rest of the materials are of little use inside. Insulation with plaster has practically no effect. Penofol is a good material, but too thin. It can be used if a little insulation is required.

How to properly insulate a house from a bar outside

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External or facade insulation of a house from a bar is performed most often in one of two ways:

1. with a ventilated facade system;
2. using the "wet" facade technology.

For the first option, a frame is necessarily mounted, for which it is recommended to use dry lumber, and not metal profiles, which can be the source of the formation of cold bridges.

After the crate is ready:

• a layer of vapor barrier is laid;
• the next layer is insulation;
• on top of the insulation, if mineral wool is used as it, another layer of vapor barrier film is recommended, which will simultaneously perform the function of wind protection.

In cases where it is required to perform insulation of a veranda in a wooden house- you can use the same method, since in this case no additional load is created on the supporting structures and uneven shrinkage will not occur.

But the bonus will be that the useful area in the house will increase, which can be actively used in the cold season.

The next step is the construction of a counter-lattice that performs several functions simultaneously:

• additionally fixes heat and vapor barrier;
• creates the gap necessary for ventilation of the space;
• serves as the basis for the installation of finishing materials.

Often, timber is chosen for construction precisely as an inexpensive material, and the facade is finished with bricks. But before insulating a house from a bar in this way, it is imperative to take into account the weight of the brick when designing the foundation.

A house made of chopped logs, making a log house. - here is more useful information.

This method is often used for the reconstruction of old wooden houses, but only after a study of the state of the foundation of the house has been carried out.

You will be interested in this article - Log House: Technology and the Secret of Popularity.

If it turns out that the foundation is not able to withstand the additional load, a new independent foundation is arranged under the brick facing of the house. And to reduce the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the walls, a layer of insulation is laid between the timber and the brick, most often, foam or mineral wool.

If, nevertheless, one cannot do without insulation inside the house, then the procedure is the same: you must first create a frame, arrange a vapor barrier and lay insulation.

In this case, the top decorative layer will be either a plasterboard structure or a lining. Although you can use other materials, depending on the functional purpose of the room, the financial capabilities of the developer and personal preferences.

DIY strip foundation.

Log House: Technology and the Secret of Popularity.

Does your wooden house require insulation? But you don't know how to do it right? Then the following information will definitely come in handy. It's about. Although I would like to note that this method is not used as often as outdoor installation of insulation. Why is this method considered less popular?

Modern thermal insulation materials have high technical characteristics: light weight, flexibility, excellent ability to maintain the indoor climate.

There are several good reasons: firstly, the internal insulation option slightly reduces the living space; secondly, by performing the installation of insulation on your own, due to inexperience, you can get a violation of the microclimate due to high humidity. That is why it is best if the insulation of a wooden house from the inside takes place after consultation with specialists or professional builders. They will tell you how to insulate a wooden house inside correctly, quickly and correctly.

Please note that the method of internal insulation is fundamentally different from the installation of insulation outside the house.

The reasons for the cold snap in the house and the procedure for work on thermal insulation

Usually houses built of wood are especially comfortable: they are cool in summer and warm in winter. Most often, a cold snap in a wooden house can be caused by 2 main reasons. It:

• poor-quality or improperly mounted outer heat-insulating layer;
• the appearance of cracks in the walls of the house as a result of improper installation, or drying out.

After the reasons for the cold in a wooden house have become clear, you can proceed to familiarize yourself with the list of upcoming works aimed at its internal insulation.

This process will take place in several stages:

1. First you will need to prepare the surfaces.
2. Then seal up all the gaps.
3. Equip a vapor barrier layer.
4. Mount the crate.
5. Install a layer of thermal insulation.
6. Equip the ventilation system.
7. Next comes the turn of finishing work.

And now about all these stages in more detail.

Back to the table of contents

Surface preparation for insulation

The first stage of insulation work involves the preliminary preparation of surfaces.

When working on laying heat-insulating material, it is necessary to protect the respiratory system and eyes from the ingress of fine dust and other substances.

First, clean all surfaces of the walls from dirt and dust. And then you can proceed to the careful processing of wooden walls with a special compound that protects the tree from the reproduction of insects. It is very good if the composition you choose will additionally perform a function that prevents the process of decay of wooden surfaces, and protect it not only from moisture, but also from the danger of fire.

And yet, at the same stage, you need to take care of the safety of electrical wiring. If there is a variant of its surface location, then it must be separated from the wall. Close up the cracks

After completing all the above procedures, you can proceed to the second stage of insulation. It provides for the implementation of work to eliminate the existing cracks. They must be carefully caulked. Many people know that after a house from a bar is built, it is necessary to carry out an additional procedure to eliminate cracks, after about 1 year.

Naturally, this is done if the house remained uninhabited. During the operation of the premises, the re-caulking of the cracks can be carried out later, after about 3 years. What is the best way to seal the cracks? Usually, a material such as jute fiber is used for these purposes.

From the tools you will need a chisel, preferably wide and rather thin. For cracks of an especially large size, a tape tow is used, which, before being placed in the gap, is twisted in the form of a roller. It is necessary to fill the slots until the material used is no longer placed in them.

Back to the table of contents

Vapor barrier layer: nuances

Cork insulation retains heat very well and lends itself well to processing.

The presence of a vapor barrier in a wooden house is very important, since as a result of insulation, the wall is blocked between 2 heat-insulating layers. In this case, the degree of humidity in the room increases, since the walls arranged in this way are not able to breathe. What to do in this case? A high-quality ventilation system saves, only with its help is it possible to effectively combat moisture. If you do not allow dampness on the walls, then you will avoid the occurrence of the process of decay of the tree.

Simply put, you need to equip a high-quality vapor barrier. It is performed using a special film, which is placed on the wall surface with its rough side towards the wooden surface.

Back to the table of contents

Lathing and thermal insulation layer

You can mount the lathing layer on the walls using a wooden beam. It is also allowed to use a metal profile, but only in the case of subsequent sheathing with moisture-resistant gypsum plasterboard sheets.

Wall insulation scheme: 1 - outer sheathing (lining); 2 - polyethylene; 3 - OSB board; 4, 6 - vapor barrier layer; 5 - insulation layer (mineral wool); 7 - ventilation gap; 8 - inner lining.

In order for the corners of the lathing to be even and correct, it is necessary to take care of the preparation of the corner posts in advance. To do this, measure the height of the room and cut the timber in accordance with this value. The section of the timber used for these purposes should be 50 × 100 mm.

As a result of these manipulations, you should get a stand that resembles the letter "G" in its outline. Each corner of the room should be equipped with such a rack. When carrying out fastening, do not forget to check the verticality of their location.

Now you can start installing vertical bars with a step of about 0.5 m. The bar should have a cross section of 50 × 50 mm. Do not forget that all wooden parts of the lathing must be pre-treated with a protective compound against decay and fire.

After the lathing is completed, you can proceed with the installation of the heat-insulating layer. For these purposes, a material such as mineral wool is well suited. After you have unrolled the roll with the material, you need to cut it in accordance with the desired height value. And the width of the insulating layer should be 2 cm greater than the distance available between two vertical bars.

Having placed a strip of heat-insulating layer between the bars, you need to fix it to the wall with anchors. Note that anchors are used that have large round caps. The second layer of insulation is fixed to the surface of the bars. The vapor barrier, or rather the film used for its device, will help to avoid dampness, and still will not allow small particles of mineral wool to get into the air. Fastening the vapor barrier layer to the bars is carried out using a construction stapler.

Built several decades ago, they have already grown old and in the winter months they begin to let in the cold.

Errors when insulating a wooden house

That's why it is very important to exclude possible oversights, which regularly occur with unqualified thermal insulation of wooden modern materials. Let's take a look at the most common ones.

Mistake # 1. Thermal insulation of a log house without inspecting the condition of the wood

As a rule, already "old" log cabins are insulated. On the one hand, it is technologically convenient: the log house has finally settled down and the dimensions of the structure remain unchanged. However, the past years could not but leave traces on biologically living material -.

Therefore, before the planned insulation, which implies that there will be no access to the logs for many years, it is necessary carefully examine all crowns and discard defective fragments... If a wood-devouring one is wound up in the logs, I will make a cautious assumption that it is no longer advisable to insulate the house. A cardinal medicine for such a case, except for a weekly forty-degree frost, has not yet been invented. Read more about this issue in the articles: Good wood should soak with fire-fighting and antiseptic composition and dry thoroughly... It is a mistake to carry out insulation on raw wood.

Mistake # 2. Lack of attention to caulk

Traditional caulking is performed, strictly speaking, not to insulate the log house, but to prevent it from blowing, which ultimately affects the preservation of heat in the house.

Deciding to insulate log facades, pay attention to the condition of caulking on all crowns... This operation should not be dismissed. Perhaps it is thanks to 2-3 defects of this natural insulator that your house is cold in winter.

At the beginning of 2016, a reader contacted the editorial office with a request to help with insulation in a modern way. Word by word, it turned out that the cunning birds had long ago pulled the caulk fibers from its log house onto their nests.

It seems that after the clarification of this fact, the craving for total warming of our dear reader has somewhat weakened.

Without plunging into the basics of building heat engineering and without delving into the meaning of the obscure phrase "" (which is the basis for choosing a location), take the craft postulate on faith: insulation of structures is carried out from the outside. Such an installation improves the operation of both the wall bearing material (tree crowns) and the insulation itself. Otherwise, both the insulation and the wood of the logs will get wet from the humid vapors that are inevitably found in the atmosphere of human habitation. Of course, we do not strive for this at all. You can read more about the peculiarities of insulation of the outer walls of a wooden house in the section of the article of the same name.

Mistake # 4. Rough choice of thermal insulation material

Construction markets are literally and figuratively overwhelmed with a variety of heat insulators.

However, if we introduce a strict systematization into this abundance, it turns out that everything dominates 3 types of materials suitable for log cabins... These are heaters:

• from ,
• glass wool,
• - cellular and extruded.

Let's talk about the latter first. This is an excellent heat insulator, which has better thermal insulation qualities than the first and second. It practically does not absorb moisture and does not allow water vapor to pass through. It would seem that there is nothing more to dream of. However, the biggest "but" is that when in contact with an open fire, that is, when, the expanded polystyrene does not just burn, but only melts, but with the release of truly dangerous gaseous chemical compounds. For those readers who take these words lightly, I recommend recalling the tragedy in the Permian "Lame Horse", which claimed a hundred and fifty lives due to the fact that the combustion products of the insulation got into the lungs of the visitors of this "pub".

I do not mind using this material, but I vote with both hands for its thoughtful use. There, for example, where the fire will never reach - in the foundation, in the plinth, in the blind area. Here he is truly worthless.

Choosing between glass wool and mineral wool is more difficult. Both are perfect for insulating a log house. You will learn about which thermal insulation materials are preferable from a safety point of view from the article.

Mistake # 5. Careless handling and storage of material

Thermal insulation materials must be dry... Only in this case they "keep" warm. And if the material gets wet, then its heat-insulating ability drops dramatically.

Remember the common "kitchen" situation: with what potholder do you grab the metal handle of a hot frying pan - a dry cloth or a damp / wet one? I am sure that after a moment's thought, you will choose the dry option. So the insulation must always be dry. In factories, during production, it is packaged in packaging (often in shrink-wrap) film and is sufficiently well protected from climatic moisture. But it is worth removing the film ... Therefore:

1. Unpack the insulation one day before use. and always under a canopy, or even better - in a house to be insulated.
2. After fixing the insulation on the wall go straight to its cladding plastering or protective panels (and others).
3. Do not leave the heaters open for a long time, risking soaking them "to the skin" by the summer slanting rains.

Mistake # 6. Choosing flexible mats instead of rigid slabs

On the construction market, you can find 2 options for thermal insulation materials - flexible mats and rigid plates. At first glance, these are exactly the same materials. So what to choose for facade insulation?

If you decide to opt for mats, you will be mistaken, since over the years, the insulation located in an upright position begins to sag here and there, forming cracks into which cold air rushes - the very ones that disavow all the consumer charm of modern heaters.

Rigid slabs keep their dimensions unchanged throughout their entire service life. It is quite possible to walk on the slabs laid on the roof structure without losing the quality of thermal insulation.

Why, then, are flexible mats produced? - They are irreplaceable when insulating horizontal surfaces- underground space and interfloor ceilings. There, in principle, they cannot sag and form gaps for the consumption of heat.

Mistake # 7. Incorrect determination of the thickness of the thermal insulation layer

To the question: "How thick should the heat-insulating layer be?" you will find a reasoned answer in a recently published article.

Here one can only confirm that with thermal insulation of a log house, two layers of material with a thickness of 50 mm will be enough laid one on top of the other. I'll make a reservation that two layers are enough for the climatic conditions of central Russia. In the North, three layers of insulation will have to be laid on a wooden wall, and in the southern regions it will be possible to restrict oneself to one.

In conclusion, I would like to cite a photograph of a truly unique structure.

What is its originality? The house was built at the end of the 19th century. The house is a log house, but the logs, united by horizontal dowels, are installed vertically. It was insulated in the spring of 2016 with mineral wool insulation (100 mm) and lined with chipboard panels. And the entrance group is made of monolithic reinforced concrete. Truly, on a tiny spot of development, technologies from three different centuries have merged.