They got used to hiding their homes in hollows or in the dense crown of trees. Therefore, in order for insects to quickly acclimatize in a new environment, experienced ones try to create optimal conditions for bees for reproduction and create delicious food. In this article, you will learn how to create a beehive with your own hands, which materials are better for bee housing and arrangement options.
Main structural elements
Before sketching a design, you need to know what a bee hive consists of. This is because the beekeeper is trying to create shelter for insects that supports their biological needs. However, this design will not always be convenient for bees. 
Mostly, all structures of the hive consist of a body, two compartments, a cover and a store. Outwardly, it looks like an elongated box with a solid roof and bottom.
The enclosures are made up of walls. The dimensions depend on the type of construction. There may be several of them. There are bee entrances on the walls.
The store may be optional, however, it is suitable for preservation when honey collection occurs. There is also a roof liner (another version of the store, but without recesses). It is located between the roof and top. It serves as a heater. A feeder for bees can also be installed in the liner.
The bottom is located under the body and can be removable or non-removable. The first option allows you to properly care for the bees if they need medical attention. Non-removable forms a ledge that serves as an air landing. 
Some beekeepers make a ceiling that will keep the hive warm. You can position it at the top of the slot above the frames.
The roof is the protection and the main element of the hive. She is able to shelter insects from atmospheric phenomena. The roof is flat and gable. The first allows you to transport the hive.
The frame is used for arranging honeycombs for bees. It consists of an upper and a lower bar, as well as two side strips. The frames are equipped with dividers and are located in the top of the block.
How to choose materials and tools to create
Only natural and high quality materials are used to create the hive. In the following sections, you will be able to understand what are needed to build a nest, as well as find out the advantages and disadvantages of each of the materials.
Most popular materials
The first and quite popular material for creating a hive is wood. It "breathes" well and releases steam outside. Basically, they choose wood, such as, and. You can also take poplar or aspen. Wood has a low level of thermal conductivity, protecting bees in hot and cold weather.
Important! To make hives, choose a material that is free of rotten areas, knots and cracks.
The only drawback of this material is the ability to retain moisture that enters the hive.
Plywood hives are characterized as environmentally friendly and durable. They are quite heavy and can be transported well. Plywood is superior to wood in terms of thermal insulation and dryness. 
To do this, plywood must be covered with special acrylic paint and the walls of the hive must be insulated with expanded polystyrene.
In such hives, bees spend less energy on heating, because inside, all the comfortable conditions for living and producing honey are already created.
Many beekeepers choose expanded polystyrene, as it is cheap and has a high level of thermal insulation. It is easy to work with and carry out repairs. 
The only drawbacks of this material are low strength indicators and an unpleasant taste of honey, since bees can taste expanded polystyrene.
If you want to produce honey, but you have a small amount of cash available, then you can make a hive from foam... The design turns out to be quite lightweight, retains warmth in winter and keeps cool in summer.
The only drawback is painting the finished hive to protect the foam from atmospheric agents. 
Polyurethane foam used to insulate buildings. It has a low level of thermal conductivity, but this property will be useful for creating a hive. Polyurethane foam does not allow moisture to pass through, does not rot, does not react to solvents and protects the nest from germs and fungi. The material is strong enough, and mice cannot damage it.
The only drawback is flammability. But this can be corrected by an additional ventilation system.
Polycarbonate characterized by strength, lightness and durability. The material is suitable for keeping insects, as it can withstand low and high temperatures, it is not afraid of direct sun exposure. 
Inside the nest, this material will maintain an optimal microclimate for the bees.
List of tools for making a house for bees
To create a hive, you will need the following tools:
- Axe
- Hacksaws of different sizes
- Hammer
- Drills
- Jointer
- Bit
- Plane
- Marking tool
- Electric tools
- Corner spikes
- PVA glue"
- Nest frame (can be borrowed from an experienced beekeeper).
How to make a beehive with your own hands
Now that you have chosen the optimal material for yourself and collected all the necessary tools, we proceed to the most important thing. In the following sections, you will learn how to assemble a bee hive from different materials. 
Wood
For making a beehive, choose wooden boards with a moisture content that fluctuates around 15-16%. The amount of material is selected depending on the number and dimensions of the body. Drawings are best taken from experienced beekeepers.
Important! Adhere to the basic parameters of the main elements to simplify operation.
Hive body
You will also need 4cm boards for the bottom and body. We make grooves in the boards to connect the walls of the case.
We make strips 18X4 mm in size.
We connect the boards into shields, lubricating the grooves with PVA glue. It is very important to press them tightly together so that no gaps form. 
And so we make 4 walls. You need to assemble the body in the form of shields, which can be connected using a tongue and groove and casein glue. The dimensions of the back and front walls are 605x320 mm. Side walls - 530x320 mm. In the side walls we make grooves 5 mm deep and 20 mm wide.
Important! Distance between grooves-450 mm.
Let's start creating the back and front walls. They should be collected in temporary boards made of boards (thickness - 15mm). The dimensions of the walls are 675x500 mm. The dimensions of the outer side walls are 560x500 mm.
On a permanent place, the boards of the outer walls must be nailed separately in order to properly fit into place. We fix the inner walls with glue, the corners must be fixed strictly straight. The bottom edge of the case is best positioned horizontally.
Lower and upper trays
The lower tray must be made according to the following dimensions - 1x25 cm, placing it from 5 cm from the right wall of the hive. The upper tray has dimensions of 1x10 cm, it should be located at a distance of 12 cm from the right wall of the hive. Its height is 3 cm below the edge of the upper bars of the frames. 
Underframe space
In the back wall at the level of the bottom, it is necessary to make a wedge-shaped hole to make it easier to fight varroatosis. It can be closed with an insert (dimensions 45x4 cm).
With the holes for trays, you enclose the space between the walls of the hive with small corridors made of planks. Dimensions - 1.5x2 cm.
Parallel to the front inner wall on the body, we will nail the first layer of the floor. Floor length - 65 cm. The first board should be positioned so that it protrudes 1 cm beyond the body. On this ledge we make arrival boards. Then we nail down the rest of the floorboards. After that, turn the case upside down and lay a layer of cardboard and roofing material. The next layer of the floor is boards.
Outer walls
After you've made the floor and nailed down the inner walls, install the outer walls. We nail the front and rear from the bottom of the case each. The ends should protrude 2 cm beyond the side walls. At this time, we lay insulation between the walls. Cut holes in the front board for the tray. There should be a hole in the back wall for the sub-frame space.
Also, for stability, it is necessary to nail the pads to the corner outer walls.
At the ends of the rear and front walls, which protrude 2 cm beyond the side inner walls, it is necessary to fill the side outer boards with a thickness of 15 cm.Around the entire perimeter of the inner walls, strips of 4x2 cm should be nailed.
On the strips of the front and back sides of the hive, folds should be selected (dimensions 1x1 cm) in order to install the frames. The planks must be placed tightly on the insulating material. 
Insulating material
Moss should be used to fill the space between walls. It should be more dried, since such moss will fill the voids well.
Also used are styrofoam, insulation board, cotton wool, wool and tow.
Since beekeepers have to very often raise the roof and put it back on, the product should be lightweight. This requires a strapping. It should be done with a height of 12 cm from boards 15 cm thick. 
Above the nest under the roof, it is necessary to leave a free space with a height of 24 cm. In this place we place a store on a half-frame and a heating pillow.
Pillow
The pillow is placed between the sides on the canvas so that it fits snugly against the side walls.
The pillow is 1 cm above the nest. Dimensions - 75x53. The thickness of the padding is 10 cm. You can also use moss, but it is best used for insulating the side walls.
Bee entrance
Leave 1 cm between the bottom and the bottom edge of the housing for the passage of bees and ventilation in winter.
Did you know? It is better to paint the hive white, as this color is better remembered by insects.
Styrofoam
To make a styrofoam hive, you will need styrofoam leaves, self-tapping screws (5 cm), fine sandpaper, water-based paint, liquid nails, a paint roller, a ruler, a screwdriver (screwdriver), a utility knife, and a circular saw. 
Important! All the objects in the hive are connected in the same way as the wooden bases of the bee nest.
The foam sheets should be of the following dimensions - 3x5 cm. On paper we prepare a sketch of the structure and transfer it to the foam using a marker and a ruler.
We cut out the structure with a clerical knife, saw or hacksaw for metal. We clean the edges with sandpaper. 
We fasten the side walls with overlaps (cut out quarters at the joints and drive the walls tightly into each other). We fix the elements with liquid nails.
To secure the result, use self-tapping screws around the perimeter. 
Polyurethane
You will need 8 metal plates for the case. Four slabs will form the outer contour, and the other four will form the inner contour. Spacers must be installed between the opposing inner plates. The outer tiles should be bolted together.
Metal strips must be screwed to the inner sides of the outer tiles, which form recesses in the body for gripping.
The base and cover are made with grooves. Slabs will be inserted into them. Strips of metal are applied along the edges and the parts are bolted together.
Drill holes along the inner and outer perimeter of the housing and cover. During assembly, threaded metal rods will be inserted into them.
Bolts should be screwed onto the rods, holding the entire structure firmly. Holes for pouring the mixture and a valve with a plug should be made in the lid. They will close this hole. Bottom and roof
The roof needs 2 rectangular pieces. One should have protruding sides at the edges, the other should have a protruding rectangular inner part.
The bottom is a rectangular frame with a metal mesh in the middle. It is made from individual polyurethane foam blocks. You can fasten them with bolts.
You should have 4 bar molds. In all the bars, you need to put a strip of metal along the inner perimeter, which will form folds. We put a metal mesh on them and nail them with a stapler.
The front block is best positioned lower in height to create a slot for the tray. After casting with a cutter, select the grooves in the inner side walls for the bottom valve. We cut it out of polycarbonate. We also place the rear block lower in height in order to insert the latch into this slot. Preparation of a mixture of polyurethane foam
This material is obtained from the reactions of a polyol and a polyisozonate.
When pouring the mixture, you need to correctly calculate the total mass for the process. This can be done by calculating the volume of the hive part: multiply it by the width, thickness and length. The resulting amount must be multiplied by the technological loss factor (1.15) and the estimated density of polyurethane foam (60 kg / m2).
After processing, we collect the form. The inner slabs are installed in the grooves of the base, and plastic corners should be placed inside the slabs, which will serve as folds for the frames. The corners can be secured with thick thread.
We install and fix them with screws and braces of the inner strut. Then we install the outer plates and fasten them with bolts, placing the top of the form with grooves on the walls. We twist all this with metal rods.
Pour the polyurethane foam mixture into this form, but not completely, as it expands. As soon as foam begins to show from the hole, the mold must be closed with a latch.
In the same way, we fill the molds for the lid and the bottom. After pouring the mold for the lid, pour a small amount of gravel into it so that the lid will hold steadily against gusts of wind.
The mixture hardens within 30 minutes. After that, we unscrew the bolts that hold the rods. Using a wooden block and a hammer, knock down the upper part of the mold.
After that, we unscrew the bolts on the edges of the form, doing this little by little, so as not to deform the structure. So we go through two circles over all the bolts, and then remove the spacers. 
Parts of the mold are cleaned of polyurethane foam particles, and the excess along the edges of the body can be removed with a sharp knife. After that, the structure is cleaned with fine-grained sandpaper.
Then we cover the product with facade acrylic paint to protect the hive from ultraviolet radiation. Such a coating will not be damaged by temperature extremes.
Coloring occurs within a week after production, but not earlier than after 8 hours.
Arrangement of the hive
Now we should start building a hive for bees.
In the American method of brooding bees in an apiary, 5 types of insect families are created: maternal, paternal, starter, incubator and family educator. For this method, you need to have a hive-lounger for 24 frames, an entrance, two diaphragms that will move freely in the hive, one blind diaphragm with a rubber band, one diaphragm with a dividing grid. A feeder and pillows are also needed. 
In autumn or spring, we populate a family with a good breeding uterus. In the fall, they are fed with honey and treated for varroatosis and prophylaxis with anti-dermatological agents. In the spring
Before constructing bee houses for treatment on your own, you need to know its structure, design features, manufacturing methods.
You also need to make a drawing of the house, taking into account all the details and nuances.
In practice, there are two main types of insect dwellings: vertical and horizontal. The first is constructed as a box, in which the side piece increases the dimensions. The vertical structure is made in several tiers. When manufacturing, the number of insects and the size of the house should be taken into account.
- very whimsical insects, so they need comfortable living conditions. It is very important that during the construction of the structure, weather conditions are taken into account in the form of rain, wind, hail, and low temperatures.
The hive should be insulated on all sides so that frost and cold winds, which can destroy beneficial insects, do not affect the bees.
Varieties
In addition to the 2 main varieties, bee houses are of the following types:
- Dadanovsky. The buildings of the houses are made of coniferous materials. The most popular type.
- Alpine. Compact dwelling without ventilation.
Plywood. A budget option. Serves for a long period, although it takes little time to build. - Cassette. The structure is not painted, but covered with ramtome wax for protection. In such hives, they themselves have the ability to regulate the temperature.
- Plastic. This type of houses is lightweight, airtight, easy to install, easily transported to a meadow with melliferous plants.
- Northern. They are distinguished by the presence of insulation on the walls, which allows the bees to withstand severe frosts.
- Asiatic. Designed for small insect families.
Each of the species has its own advantages and disadvantages, the choice depends on the climatic conditions, the preferences of the apiary owner, and financial capabilities.
House construction
To build a wooden bee house with your own hands, you need boards brought to the required degree of humidity and nails. The dimensions need to be calculated taking into account the increase in the number of bees.
When drawing up a drawing, it is necessary to note the place of entry of insects and the dimensions of the parts. First, the main drawing is made with the house in full, then individual elements with the required dimensions are drawn. Compartments for adults and larvae must be noted.
Building a house consists of several stages:
- Frame. The walls of the hive consist of one or more compartments of different sizes and structures. To install, grooves are needed in each compartment. If you want to build a removable bottom, then the entrance should be placed a little higher than the middle of the body in the form of a round hole with a diameter of 2-3.5 cm. With a fixed bottom, the entrance is made at the bottom of the body in the form of a slit, the height of which is up to 2 cm, the length is 10. Experienced Beekeepers advise to design the bottom of the hive removable, which makes the care of the bees much easier. If the bottom is fixed, then it extends beyond the edges of the hive, which creates an landing area for insects. Shops are one of the types of housing. They are used for the accumulation of honey by bees. Stores are mounted on the house during the main bribe. Such structural details are especially needed in weak bee colonies.
- Roof cover. The same as the store, but without the grooves for the frames. The roof cover is located between the cover and the top of the structure. It is needed to improve the life of bees. Warming is placed on it and a feeder is placed.
- Roof. It is made of plywood or wood, attached with nails in the form of a frame. To protect the bee colony from moisture, a metal sheet is nailed to the top of the roof.
- Framework. The standard of the frames is 43.5x30 cm. They are made of wooden planks. To attach the frames to the body, the upper block is made 1 cm larger on all sides relative to the lower attachment. When the frame is installed, the wire is stretched and the foundation is placed.
The housing for the bees needs to be monitored, from time to time the house needs to be repaired if any breakdowns are found.
Lounger equipment
The bed for sleeping on the hives is made of natural wood, without staining and varnishing.
Before construction, a draft of a hive sleeping house is drawn up, which must be followed when performing work. There are two main types of sun loungers:
- Covered sunbed. For the construction of a house protected from negative weather phenomena, approximately 10 hives are needed. Bee dwellings are built into the base of the structure, all entrances are directed to the street. The roofs of the hives are covered with a protective mesh that will prevent insects from getting inside. A lounger is laid up from the boards. There are gaps between the boards for the penetration of air, which is saturated with ions. The roof is covered with tiles that protect from precipitation, the walls are insulated, window openings are made into which glass is inserted.
- Outdoor lounger. The design is more simplified. She needs 3-4 houses for. A net for protection is pulled over the bee dwellings, and the lounger is placed in a horizontal position, and a cover is attached. The advantage of the design is contact with fresh air; there is no need to open windows to ventilate a peculiar room. The disadvantages include the influence of bad weather.
Healing effect
When equipping a place to sleep in bee houses, it is required to separate the hive with planks so that the bees do not fall into other people's nests. The bee house is used to cure a variety of diseases. The treatment effect is achieved due to three types of effects on the human body:
- microvibration
- biofield effect
- inhalation of healing air
The air containing honey insects is saturated with flower nectar and propolis. When a person inhales a useful mixture, effective cleansing of the respiratory system occurs. The treatment is excellent for treating acute respiratory infections, bronchitis and other diseases of the respiratory system.
In addition, the following diseases are cured:
- reproductive system, infertility
- digestive tract diseases
- diseases of the heart and blood vessels
The treatment promotes rehabilitation after surgeries and restores the correct metabolism. Sleeping on bee houses is not recommended in such situations:
- alcoholic intoxication
- diseases during an exacerbation
- simultaneous use of drugs
- presence of food allergies
Before starting the procedure, the patient needs to wear a hat that prevents insects from entering the hair. The use of perfumery is strictly prohibited, since smells not only scare away insects, but also cause an aggressive state.
The benefits of a unique bee house and all honey products have been known for a long time:
- The products are becoming more and more popular and are even used for the treatment of oncological diseases. This is explained by the fact that the functions of the hives help to restore old cells in the body and enhance the action of new ones.
- Dwellings with bees perfectly strengthen the immune system and actively influence the human biofield. About 150,000 bees are used to achieve a healing effect
- The constant hum of bees, for some inexplicable reason, raises a person's mood.
- In addition, breathing is facilitated, headaches of any origin cease, and sound healthy sleep is restored.
Many experts advise treatment in the form of sleeping in bee houses for various diseases instead of using medications.
Do-it-yourself apid or sleep on hives - on video.
The Dadan hive has stood the test of time - the design was invented at the end of the 19th century. Thoughtful design, simplicity and reliability have made it popular among experienced beekeepers and beginners.
American Frenchman Dadant in the 60s of the 19th century calculated mathematically the dimensions of the hive. Sorry, the work could not be completed. Several years later, another beekeeper, the Swiss Blatt, brought Dadant's work to mind and patented the work as a Dadant-Blatt hive.
Nowadays, the Dadanovsky hive is represented by several types of structures. The main differences are volume, material and insulation.
The dimensions of the structure are a strategic issue. It is important to understand what is needed in specific conditions.
- 10 frame. The classic Dadant scheme.
- 12 frame. The square section allows you to position the frames in different ways (with a warm or cold skid).
- 14 and 16 frame. It's harder to work alone. The increased number of frames creates a greater load on the structure.
Material
High-quality material will last longer, will not warp or rot. Materials with a strong odor must not be used.
- Boards. Wood without knots and rot is suitable. An insufficiently dried tree will dry out over time, cracks will appear.
- and fiberboard. Cheaper, easier to handle, but less durable.
- ... Lightweight, warm, durable, soundproof.
- ... Lightweight, warm, soundproof and less reliable.
Insulation
Depending on the temperature conditions, one of the types is chosen:
- Double-walled. The walls are double, insulation (sawdust, moss, straw, polystyrene) is laid in the gap between the walls. Keeps you warm in unpredictable spring weather. Recommended in the middle and northern latitudes of Russia.
- Single-wall. An easy option not designed for low temperatures.
What does it consist of
Regardless of its size and other features, the Dadan-Blatt hive consists of the following elements:
- Frame. Must exactly match the drawing, not skew. All other parts of the structure are attached to it. The letok is located in the hive building.
- Bottom. Usually removable. The fixed bottom is more airtight and stiffer, but complicates the work with the bees.
- Extension (store). It is installed during the period of active honey collection. By special techniques, the uterus is not allowed to lay eggs in the store. In principle, 2 extensions stacked on top of each other can serve as a second body.
- Roof cover. Needed for ventilation and insulation of the hive.
- Roof. Most susceptible to weathering. The roof is painted in 2-3 layers or sheathed with tin. Roofs are pitched, gable and flat.
- Minor construction details (tap holes, folds).
How to make a twelve-frame Dadan hive with your own hands
The dimensions and drawings of the twelve Dadan frame hives are given for the single-wall type, since the second walls are built on top of the inner ones, and do not matter.
Preparation for work
With some skill, making a Dadan hive yourself is not difficult. There are several important points.
- Storage and processing of wood in a dry place. Only dried wood is used.
- Study the drawings in advance and imagine the order of work.
- Prepare tools and materials.
A job well done will last a long time. The lifespan of a manufactured hive depends on the material.
Operating procedure
- Blanks are cut from a 35 mm board according to the drawing. The joints are prepared, the folds are selected. The workpieces are ground.
- When assembling wide boards, they are opposed to narrow ones (if the front lower board is wide, the side lower boards are taken narrow).
- The joints are glued. PVA or wood (casein) glue is used. It is important that the glue does not have a strong odor and is not toxic to bees.
- The ends of the connections are additionally reinforced with pins or self-tapping screws. Allow the glue to dry before reassembling.
- The upper notch is drilled out, the lower one is cut along the edge of the body.
In the process of making the bottom, extension and roof, it makes sense to periodically try them on in order to notice mistakes immediately.
- The removable bottom is made wider and is assembled from the boards in a quarter (or in another way with good tightness). Three strips are packed in such a way as to enter the fold at the bottom of the case. The front side is left without a strip for ventilation. Boards can be taken thicker than 4 cm, this will make the bottom heavier, but make it stronger.
- The superstructure (store) is assembled similarly to the body. A rebate is selected along the upper edge of the superstructure.
- The roof is put on the body or store. Over time, they change shape a little, so you need to make the roof landing not too tight. Ventilation holes are arranged on the sides or in the front. To transport the bees, you need to close the holes with a fine mesh.
The size of the twelve-frame hive
The typical dimensions of the elements of the Dadan hive are 12 frames.
- The rebate depth is recommended 18 mm. This means that there is a space of 10 mm between the frame and the top cut.
- The depth of the other folds is selected based on the thickness of the material.
- The gap between the bottom and the frames is left 25 mm, for cleaning and for the convenience of bees.
- The upper notch with a diameter of 25 mm is drilled 70 mm from the upper cut. An arrival board is installed under the entrance.
- The lower notch is 10 mm high and is made almost the entire length of the wall; its length is regulated by special inserts.
Dadan Twelve Hive Blueprint
View of the collection of the Dadan hive. Option with two magazines and a liner.
Hull drawing
To assemble the body, you will need two side and front walls. An upper notch will need to be drilled in the front wall.
Side wall of the Dadan building for 12 frames
The front wall of the Dadan case for 12 frames
Shop drawing
To assemble the store, you will also need two front and 2 side walls.
Side wall of Dadan store for 12 frames
The front wall of the Dadan store for 12 frames
Liner drawing
If you need a sub-roof, it is also assembled similarly to the body and the store, but has its own dimensions.
Roof liner Dadan for 12 frames
Roof drawing
The drawing shows a horizontal roof. If you need a slope, you can raise one front wall by 20mm, and do not forget about the side walls, whose maximum external size will increase to 100mm, and the minimum will remain 80mm. Also, the right side should be mirrored to the left.
After assembling the frame, you need to fix a 540mm * 540mm plywood sheet from above or tie it with a 20mm board, provided that the roof is horizontal. On the inside, insulate, and on the outside, cover with a sheet of iron, tar paper, linoleum or other material that does not allow moisture to pass through.
Roof Dadan for 12 frames
Bottom drawing
When making the bottom, we prepare two side walls (1), the back one (2 without a tap hole) and the front one (2) in which you need to make a tap hole 10 mm in advance for the length of the tab you have prepared. You also need to prepare in advance the bottom (3) from a 25mm board, measuring 470mm * 470mm. Having connected the 2 side walls with the back, we insert the bottom, only then we close the front wall. You can fill a board under the notch.
Dadan bottom for 12 frames
When making a Dadan hive from a 40mm board. internal dimensions do not change. The outer dimension is increased by 10 mm and the rebate depth is changed by 21 mm.
How to make a ten-frame Dadant hive with your own hands
The scheme for making a 10 frame Dadan hive is the same as for a 12 frame hive. You can use 35 mm boards (the load on the structure is now less). It takes up little space and is easier to work with.
The size of the ten-frame hive
Compared to the 12 frame, only the length of the side walls and the corresponding dimensions of the roof and bottom change.
Dadant Ten-Frame Hive Blueprint
The ten-frame hive differs from the twelve-frame hive only in width.
Hull drawing
The side wall is similar to the 12 frame one. And the front and back walls are smaller. An upper tap hole must be drilled in the front wall.
Side wall of the Dadan case for 10 frames
The front wall of the Dadan case for 10 frames
Shop drawing
As well as for the body, only the dimensions of the front and rear walls change relative to the 12 frame structure.
Side wall of Dadan store for 10 frames
Roof liner Dadan for 10 frames
Roof drawing
After assembling the frame, you need to fix a sheet of plywood 540mm * 470mm from above or tie it with a 20mm board, provided that the roof is horizontal. On the inside, insulate, and on the outside, cover with a sheet of iron, tar paper, linoleum or other material that does not allow moisture to pass through.
Dadan roof for 10 frames
Bottom drawing
When making the bottom, we prepare two side walls (1), the back one (2 without a tap hole) and the front one (2) in which you need to make a tap hole 10 mm in advance for the length of the tab you have prepared. You also need to prepare in advance the bottom (3) from a 25mm board, 470mm * 400mm in size. Having connected the 2 side walls with the back, we insert the bottom, only then we close the front wall. You can fill a board under the notch.
Dadan frame drawing
The Dadan-Blatt hive is reliable in mid-latitudes. The standard 12 frame design is easy to manufacture. Using high-quality material and observing the technology, you can count on a long service life of the hive.
Work on the construction of an apiary begins with the selection of bee hives. The beekeeper has three options: to buy ready-made, but it is expensive, to purchase previously used, but they can be infected and will not last long. Or you can make a beehive yourself. Cheaper, more reliable, with a guarantee of a long service life. How to make, from what, by what technologies? Recommendations of specialists will help.
The beginning of any work is preceded by the study of the theoretical part. Before you start assembling, it is not enough to study the drawings and designs. It is important to get acquainted with the way of life of "honey" insects, the size of drones and queens, their mode of work, and the peculiarities of reproduction. This is what determines the strict requirements for the design of the bee house.
Briefly, they can be distinguished into the following:
Advice! It is more correct to paint the finished hives in different bright colors. Bees find their bearings faster when searching for their house.
As for the requirements for the design of "rooms" for bee families, as a result of many years of practice, the optimal dimensions have been derived:
- the bar at the top - 24-25 mm;
- the width of the passageways for movement - 12 mm;
- the axes should be at a distance of 37 mm;
- it is recommended to retreat by 7 mm from the slats on the sides and walls;
- between the bottom and the underside of the frame - about 30-40 mm.
Types and manufacturing technologies
Consider the most popular constructive types of bee hives in the description and on the video.
"Dadanovsky" bee hive... The house has 12 frames. The arrangement is vertical, with the ability to increase the structure upwards. The additional box body is simply attached from the top. Its size, as a rule, is not more than half of the main one. The beehive lounger is distinguished by the horizontal arrangement of the frames and their number - up to 20 pieces. The hive is wider and the hive is less deep.
If a large number of bees is expected, hives can be made using the Langstroth-root method. There are up to 4 boxes of floors in such constructions, each with 10 frames.
The easiest bee hive to make - "horned"... At the corners of the boxes-cases have protruding corners of the pins, hence the name. In each case there are thick, interconnected boards that form a frame. Size - 15.5 cm wide with a thickness of 2.2 cm. The sections are firmly fixed with bars. The structure can be disassembled to replace a damaged or broken part.
Attention! Compared to other designs, "horned" hives are quicker to assemble and take up less space.
Materials, construction details
For the manufacture of bee hives, you can use plastic or foam, but you need to understand that in natural conditions, hardworking insects live in the hollows of trees. Of course, they will be more comfortable in wooden houses. The most suitable boards are linden or coniferous trees. The tree must be of high quality, processed, without roughness and knots (2-3 per piece is allowed).
The moisture content of the tree should be no more than 16%. To save money, you can use plywood, but it is not as durable and quickly deforms when exposed to moisture.
Attention! To ensure thermal insulation, plywood parts must be covered from the inside with expanded polystyrene.
To connect the parts, you will need waterproof joinery glue, nails of different lengths. Roofing material can be used for the roof. For the final processing of wood, drying oil and paints are needed. Using the example of the Dadanov hive, we will analyze in detail what parts the house will consist of:
- boxes-cases in the intended quantity;
- 10 frames;
- shops - 2 pcs;
- bottom and ceiling details;
- element located under the cover;
- insert board.
The exact dimensions, the joints of the parts are clearly visible in the drawings. Let's dwell on the main points that need to be taken into account when assembling in more detail. To make the body and the store, parts of the same size are procured - 53 and 34 cm. The roof can be made with one or two slopes, but it is important to make it sloped. This will keep moisture from penetrating during heavy rains. The roof is assembled from several parts: the main boards and the sub-roof. It is a heater, there are also sippy cups or feeders for feeding the bees.
Parts are nailed to each other or screwed with self-tapping screws. Depending on the climate, the insulation lining will vary in thickness. In order to eliminate excess moisture in the bee hive, ventilation holes are drilled in the roof covers. When assembling the roof, you need to pay attention to the tightness of the boards - there should be no gaps. If necessary, use spacers or overhead skirting boards. As for the bottom assembly. A simpler option assumes the deaf. But, nevertheless, it is recommended to make a removable or retractable bottom. This makes it easier to clean the hive. In cold regions, the bottom should be made of a double board, with a layer of insulation.
A do-it-yourself bee house is a job that does not require complex tools and materials. Using ready-made drawings, you can make reliable ones that will last a long time.
How to make a beehive: video
The invention of the frame-based hive is a breakthrough in the field of beekeeping. Pyotr Ivanovich Prokopovich, a famous Ukrainian and Russian scientist, first began to practice the production of evidence. It was he who began to organize the work of bees in order to obtain honey. Previously, the procedure for collecting useful delicacies led to the ruin of their nests, from which the honeycombs were broken.
Many beekeepers are often faced with the task of making a bee house. In fact, this is a very responsible occupation. It is important to take into account all the nuances so that the insects are comfortable. The hive must be made of suitable materials and according to certain rules.
Every self-respecting beekeeper should know how to make a hive with his own hands. There are different configurations of bee hives:
Naturally, each configuration has both advantages and disadvantages... Here it is up to the owner to decide which hive to choose and make with his own hands.
The choice of materials for building a bee house
Typically, insect houses are built with wood and metal sheets used for the roof. This option is close to the natural living conditions of small honey insects.
The following types of wood are optimal materials for building hives: fir; Linden; spruce; aspen; Pine.
Her dry thoroughly and processed: do not use rotten boards or boards with cracks, knots, wormholes. The moisture content of the material should be no more than 15%. Porous boards are used only for facing work.
The disadvantages of wood include the fact that in the cold period the bee dwelling needs to be insulated. DIY clues for bees they also make from plywood: This material is durable and environmentally friendly, in some cases even superior to wood.
If you prefer plywood, then be sure to cover the finished structure with an acrylic compound and insulate it with foam. In such a house, insects will be comfortable, warm and dry. But remember that plywood is a whimsical material that requires constant maintenance.
Increasingly in the manufacture of beehives polystyrene foam is used... Unlike evidence from wood, evidence from expanded polystyrene does not require additional insulation. And it is relatively inexpensive. But the material itself is quite fragile and vulnerable to damage. In addition, the quality of honey can be reduced if the bees live in a low-quality styrofoam hive.
When insulating facades polyurethane is used... The advantages of such materials include thermal conductivity properties, maintaining dryness inside the structure. It also does not decompose and does not accumulate harmful bacteria. The downside is the complete lack of ventilation. Polyurethane does not allow oxygen to pass through at all.
In addition, the lodges insulated with moss... However, some beekeepers believe that the microclimate inside the dwelling of honey insects suffers, because the moss allows drafts to pass through. But an important advantage of natural insulation material is its availability - you probably won't have to buy moss.
The principles of making beehives
Making a beehive with your own hands, drawings for it is not difficult. Even a novice beekeeper can make the design. Making houses for bees at home involves a number of rules that must be followed:
Over time, the material can deteriorate: colas and cracks form on the wood. Based on this, it is recommended to use linseed oil primer... A light-colored paint is added to the solution: you can choose yellow, blue or white.
You can make bee hives from boards of any size... It is recommended to make the inner walls from a solid board. For sheathing the finished hive, gaps of any width are used, located at different levels.
Basic elements of the classic design
A classic hive is a case with two compartments, a lid and a magazine. This variation is somewhat reminiscent of a box with a thickened bottom and an oblong roof.
Before you start making beehives with your own hands in a classic configuration, read and understand the components of the future structure. Find out what part is needed for what, and only then make a bee house.
Almost any option contains the following details:
- Frame. The main part, which looks like a box, consists of the walls of the hive. Dimensions may vary from specific models. There are models containing several cases.
- Shop extension. This part is not found on all models. It is something like a shortened body. The purpose of the extension is to preserve the honey during the collection period.
- Framework. There can be two types: sectional and nesting. Nesting ones are used to create honeycombs by insects. And sectional - for harvesting honey in combs.
- Ceiling. It consists of boards covering the nest from above. Some hive models use a canvas instead of a ceiling.
- Roof cover. Located between the upper body and the roof. It often has the same functions as a store. It is designed to improve the living conditions of insects: it insulates the hive in winter and has a feeder on itself.
- Roof. The upper part of the house, made of plywood, boards and metal sheets. Sometimes ventilation holes are made in them.
Drawings of bee hives
As in the construction of any house, even a bee house, a drawing should be sketched. There are many ready-made schemes on the Internet. In our country, there is even a GOST, which regulates the construction of bee houses. It is recommended to use planks 37 mm wide for a three-hundredth frame.
The size of the hive depends on several parameters. The temperature of the region where honey insects live is also taken into account. Often this factor is decisive, because pets can freeze to death. If the terrain is cold, then, accordingly, the wall should be thicker. It is rather difficult to determine the size, but there is special calculation formula:
- multiply the number of frames by 37.5 mm.;
- the length of the hive is equal to the length of the frame, which is increased by 14 mm.;
- calculate the height as the sum of the height of the folds and the frame.
Everything else depends on the project and the wishes of the beekeeper. Bee houses can be very diverse: from size to color.
Novice beekeepers can try to make beehive lounger, somewhat reminiscent of an elongated box. It has a punched lid and a removable bottom. This model is horizontal and medium in size. The lounger is considered a simplified model, which is the easiest to make on your own.
Possible deviations from the drawing... Making hives for bees with your own hands, the drawings for which are drawn up with special accuracy, you may encounter a deviation from the plan. An error of 1 mm is not a big deal. However, a larger indicator, which is very different from that prescribed in the drawing, will require additional adjustment.
Frame sizes
Making frames for a bee dwelling should not be difficult. It is better to take spruce or linden as a material. For a do-it-yourself double-hive hive, the drawings are built taking into account the size of the frames about 435x300 mm. Consider the following nuances:
Step-by-step instructions for making a beehive
So how do you make your own bee hives? On the Internet, you can find many videos to simplify your task. They not only tell, but also demonstrate which plan to carry out the work. Watching the video will help both novice beekeepers and skilled beekeepers - everyone wears something new and useful for themselves. It should be noted that the work process will depend on from the construction scheme and the type of hive which you liked the most. However, the algorithm of work is always the same.
Construction involves the following several stages:
- The inner walls of the future structure are sawn out - front, side and rear. The thickness of the boards is approximately 20 mm. They should be connected using casein glue or tongue.
- After they begin to make the outer walls. They are collected in something like shields - the thickness of the boards is about 15 mm. If the inner walls are glued with casein glue, then they are temporarily fixed with overlays on the nails. Each board is attached separately. The bottom edge is horizontal and the corners are at right angles.
- At the back, a hole is made in the wall. It protects bees from varroatosis, a disease caused by the Varroa destructor mite. The hole is closed by an insert of the same shape.
- In the body, which consists only of the inner walls and does not have a bottom, the lower taphole is made. Usually it starts 5 cm from the right side of the house.
- On the body, which has only an inner wall, the first layer of boards is nailed, protruding 1–1.5 cm beyond the hive. From this you need to mount platforms for arrival. Roofing material or thick cardboard is placed on the same floor layer, then the bottom layer is nailed.
- In order for the walls from the outside to be the most stable, the boards must be nailed to the corner plates.
- The front and rear walls are placed on the ends. All construction starts from the bottom up. Each plank must be nailed in turn. In parallel with this, the bee house is insulated.
- Planks should be nailed onto the inner walls of the structure - along its entire perimeter. They will block the space between the walls and the top.
- In the planks nailed on the back and front, you need to select the folds for the frames. Make sure that the planks in the space between the walls attract fairly tightly, and with corner splices, they merge into a single line.
When the structure is completely ready, cover the roof with metal sheets and treat the wood with a coloring protective compound. You will receive not only a functional, but also a beautiful beehive, which will serve as a decorative element for your suburban area.
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