What is needed to decorate the bath inside. What is the decoration of the bath inside, photo examples. Requirements for warming a bath room

The use of a bath has long been considered not only a hygienic, but also a health-improving procedure. People who visit the bath are less likely to get colds, cardiovascular diseases and diseases of the nervous system. A wooden bath is considered traditional: the walls of the steam room "breathe" in it, which contributes to improved ventilation of hot air.

Peculiarities

Today, there are many different options for the interior decoration of the bath - these are gas silicate blocks, and bricks, and so far only magnelite, which is gaining popularity. However, the most suitable finish is still considered to be made of natural materials, namely wood. Thanks to the wooden lining, it becomes possible to create a specific microclimate and a cozy atmosphere necessary for a bath or sauna. When planning to sheathe the bath with clapboard with your own hands, you need to take into account not only all the nuances, but also carefully follow the rules for such interior decoration.

The choice of lining and the calculation of the area

For high-quality work, it is necessary to choose the right material and calculate its amount.

Sheathing the inner surface of a room such as a bath is necessary only with those materials that can withstand:

  • large temperature drops;
  • high humidity;
  • constant contact with water and various substances.

Board type and grade of material

To date, the building materials market is filled with a variety of clapboard from many manufacturers. Lamels are produced both in Russia and abroad. Eurolining is produced with various profile section options. Also, wooden lining can differ in the quality of the surface of the back and front side of the board, the shape of the lock and its size, the type of material and other equally important parameters.

Most often they use clapboard of several popular profiles.

  • Euro lining, which has clear sharp edges and forms seams visible to the naked eye when sheathing.
  • Softline with more rounded corners.
  • Calm. The seam with such a finish is almost invisible, because it has no shelves-recesses. It can imitate a timber, have both fairly sharp and smoother rounded edges.

  • Loundhouse, the front side of which is not smooth, but with different patterns. The pattern on the lamellas of the lamella is applied using curly milling on more expensive materials and using hot stamping on cheaper materials.
  • Blockhouse (siding).
  • Double-sided lining. Both the groove and the spike of such a board are exactly in the middle, so both sides are equally flat - you can choose between them. However, this material has almost no ventilation (the ability to "breathe"), so it is not very well suited for interior decoration in wet rooms such as baths, swimming pools or saunas.

To determine the grade of the purchased lining, you can use the European DIN standard. The difficulty lies in the fact that many manufacturers use various GOSTs and even their own specifications, therefore, first of all, it is necessary to look at the surface quality of the material itself, and not at the marking. All lining is made using the same equipment and using a single technology, therefore, the grade of material is determined during inspection after the completion of the manufacturing process.

  • Premium (or extra). Almost perfect lining quality. No twigs or cracks are allowed on the lamellas. A light blue tint, small chippings, roughness and unevenness are possible only from the inside.
  • Class A. The branches on such a board should not be more than 1 cm in diameter and occur no more often than once on a one meter long section. Cracks, if any, should be very small and, of course, blind. It is advisable that the manufacturer putty them on his own. All other defects are permissible only on the inside.
  • Class B. The knots in diameter can be no more than a third of the lamella, but in any quantity. Through cracks and open pockets are also allowed.
  • Class C- this is the entire remaining lining, on which both blue spots and a large number of large knots are visible. They can be uneasy even on the surface of the side that is visible after installation. However, it is believed that lining of this class should not be used for finishing walls.

Wood

The bath is not only a steam room, but also a washing room, a dressing room or even a pool. For each of the premises, it will be more appropriate to choose a certain type of wood.

Wood is divided into two categories:

  • coniferous: pine, spruce, cedar;
  • deciduous: linden, aspen and others.

One of the most popular options for material for euro lining is lime board. Linden is quite strong, does not change the structure of fibers for a long time and is resistant to various negative factors. The atmosphere of the linden bath is saturated with freshness and purity.

It is easy to work with aspen clapboard, time makes this material only stronger. If the surface of such a lining darkens, it is easy for it to return to its original appearance by sanding the surface. Both linden and aspen are used to decorate the hottest and wettest room in saunas - the steam room.

It is also allowed to use cedar for its decoration, however, due to the fact that the cedar heats up very quickly, discomfort may arise when you touch the loungers and walls made of this material. Conifers are used for sheathing mainly the washing or dressing room. Pine and spruce give off resin abundantly and, like cedar, have a high heating rate, but using this material will save you money and choose from an extensive decorative range of lining. It should be noted that coniferous wood must be first degummed in order to avoid a large number of streaks on the walls.

Mount options

There are two options for placing the elements in the sauna cladding. It is possible to upholster the wall with eurolining by placing the boards both horizontally and vertically. For each of the options, a certain type of frame is required, which is also made of a bar connected to each other with ordinary nails. Each of the methods has both advantages and disadvantages.

The advantages of the horizontal option are:

  • a decrease in the chance of water getting into and stagnant in the seams, since the fastening is carried out with a thorn up, which allows water that has already got inside to drain down;
  • the frame for this method of fastening the lining is made vertically and allows air to circulate more evenly in the room;
  • even the highest quality wood is subject to decay processes, and the horizontal method of attaching the lamellas will allow replacing only the material that is located below and has been more damaged, without dismantling the entire wall;
  • when laying the lining horizontally, drying of wood is less noticeable, which will inevitably occur with any type of material.

It is faster and easier to finish a vertical sauna with Euro lining than a horizontal one. This method also has its advantages:

  • rapid drainage of moisture along vertical seams in the wall;
  • when using the "groove-comb" system, the risk of water stagnation and destruction of material fibers from constant moisture is reduced;
  • this finish better maintains the high temperature of the room.

Step-by-step instruction

Before starting the cladding itself, it is necessary to calculate the area of ​​the surface to be sheathed and choose exactly how the lining will be attached to the walls: horizontally or vertically. The floor and ceiling of the sauna can be insulated from the inside with cotton wool or another type of insulation. Any insulation must not only be correctly selected and installed, but also covered with a layer of insulating material with foil on top to avoid exposure to moisture. Such material must be nailed to the wall before installing the battens. It is also necessary to mount a ventilation system and a stove, and only then can the frame be nailed to the walls, on which the Euro lining itself is attached. First of all, the crate is installed and the ceiling is sheathed with clapboard, and only then they begin to work with the walls.

Lathing

After all the preparatory work has been completed, you can proceed to creating a wooden frame - lathing. First, you must carefully prepare the timber itself. It can be either planed or left in its original form, the main thing is that the timber is treated with impregnations. First of all, the racks are attached - they are installed perpendicular to the future location of the lining. In some cases, it is necessary to clearly calculate the location of the timber in advance, since the vertical and horizontal layouts can be combined on the same wall. The profile can be fixed with ordinary nails if the bathhouse is also made of wood, but it is better to mount it to the wall using dowels. It should be noted that the length of the timber must be made slightly longer than the length of the insulation nailed to the wall.

Next, the racks are mounted at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. For more accurate calculations, you can use a plumb line, tape measure or level. If the wall is not level enough, you can add an extra piece of board or use a suspension for a plasterboard frame.

Ventilation

For the full functioning of a bath or sauna, as well as in order to comply with safety precautions, it is imperative that there is good ventilation.

The technology of its installation is as follows.

  • Already during the installation of the battens, it is necessary to mark in advance those places that are intended for the ventilation holes. One hole is placed near the ceiling, and the other is not higher than 150-300 mm above the floor level. It is better if the second hole is located near the oven.
  • For the duct, it is better to use an aluminum corrugation with a cross-sectional diameter of 100 mm. Place the holes for mounting the corrugation in easily accessible places in order to be able to quickly adjust the fresh air supply.

  • The use of foam as a heat-insulating material when installing ventilation is strongly discouraged. It is better to use non-flammable materials such as basalt (mineral) wool.

Warming

It is necessary to dwell in more detail on the insulation of the walls. Due to the constantly high humidity, the bath room needs special fastening and multilayer insulation.

First, you need to lay a waterproofing material on the wall so that moisture does not begin to destroy the insulation. You can nail the waterproofing material to the wall itself or additionally fix it on the wall surface with wooden slats. The wool itself must be laid between the frame (beams) of the sheathing with an overlap of 10 mm.

On top of the mineral wool, it is necessary to lay a foil film, which not only protects the insulation from moisture and steam, but also reflects the outgoing heat into the room. Such a vapor barrier can be attached with a construction stapler directly to the overlapping battens of the sheathing.

You can also use a simpler method and insulate the walls of the sauna with the help of already foil-coated basalt wool, which is laid with foil to the lining.

Mounting

Fastening of euro lining in baths and saunas is done only by a hidden method. Firstly, the hardware used to attach the lamellas to the frame heats up so much that it can cause painful sensations when touched to its head. Secondly, the metal of the fastener can rust from constant contact with water and damage the surface of the lamella. And, finally, thirdly, these fasteners look too sloppy, especially when using very light-colored lining.

The plating of the steam room in the bath must always be carried out first on the ceiling. It starts from the front door. The lining is attached either to nails or using a clipper, since a small finishing stud will not be able to support the weight of the lamella hanging from the ceiling in this position. Kleimer is a kind of clamp (clothespin, bracket), which is made of stainless materials and better preserves the lining board from damage during installation. The last boards are quite difficult to hammer in with a nail in the groove or put on the clamps, so you can use a secret nail without a head. When hammering in such a nail, it is very easy to hit the board itself and damage it, so it is necessary to use a doboiner. At the joints with the walls, it is necessary to leave a gap of 40-50 mm so that the air circulates freely, and the lamellas, slightly swelling from moisture, do not break each other.

The cladding of the walls of the steam room is carried out by analogy with the cladding of the ceiling. It is better to start from the corner, leaving a gap of 10-30 mm near the floor in order to avoid rotting of the boards at their joints with the floor. It is not worth joining individual parts of the lining close to when finishing a room such as a bath. It is better to leave a small margin so that during swelling, the entire wall cladding does not deform and does not go in a "wave" due to constant contact with water.

The gap is done as follows:

  • initially, the lamella is pushed all the way into the groove of the already installed other lamella, along the seam line of the connection of the two boards, small marks are made with a sharp object;
  • the board is slightly removed relative to the marks made and leveled;
  • the algorithm is repeated with each next lamella;
  • the joints of the lining will look more neat if you maintain equal indents both on all walls and on the ceiling lining.

With the help of lamellas, you can also sheathe doorways by cutting the boards to the required length. The openings themselves can subsequently be framed with platbands.

The window slope is installed using a starter strip attached to a plastic lamella. In this case, the wooden lining is attached with one end to the wooden beam, and the rest to the plastic. Such a simple option is suitable for reinforced-plastic windows. You can also use a more complex method: install a separate frame on the slope and lay a wooden lining on it. This method works well for wooden windows that have a decent depth. If the slope of the wall is not wide at all, you can simply revet it with a wooden strip.

The finishing of the washroom is carried out in the same way as the finishing of the steam room, however, it is imperative that the lower ends of the boards (or the boards themselves, which are stacked near the floor with a horizontal installation method), must be fixed at a height of at least 30 mm from the floor. Also, in the washing room, you can use PVC lining or plastic panels, which are decorated with wood to create a single design. Tiles and ceramics are also great for alternative finishes.

The installation of the dressing room is no different from the installation of the washing room, but the lining cannot be mounted near the firebox. It is better to overlay the walls near the stove with brick or stone. Sheets of metal or other non-combustible coating are often used. It is not allowed to adhere the chimney pipe to anything other than a metal screen fixed to the ceiling. It is advisable to wrap the chimney behind the screen with mineral wool.

After the construction of the bathhouse is completed, you should think about interior decoration. This is perhaps the most important work, since it includes heat, hydro and vapor barrier, which will ensure the correct functioning of the building. It depends on the interior decoration how comfortable your bath will be, and how pleasant you will spend time in it.

It is very important to consider step by step each element of the work on the internal arrangement of the bath in general and the steam room in particular. Any mistake at this stage in the future can turn into inconveniences that will be very difficult to fix.

Requirements for warming a bath room

The most important quality of the steam room is the preservation of hot steam and heat inside the room for a long time. That is why thermal insulation comes first in decoration. There are many methods for such work, but we will consider the simplest and most common, which are easy to do with your own hands, without the help of specialists.

When choosing materials for insulation, one should be guided by their safety at high temperatures usual for a steam room, that is, fire resistance and resistance to sudden temperature changes. The most common materials are mineral wool as insulation and aluminum foil as vapor barrier. They are distinguished by high reliability and ease of use.

Before starting work on the insulation of the walls of the bath, the surfaces should be carefully prepared. Examine the walls and ceiling carefully, remove gaps, knots, roughness. All wooden surfaces are treated with an antiseptic, which will provide protection against mold and mildew.

Insulating and equipping the bathhouse, you will get the walls in the form of a so-called "sandwich", consisting of layers alternating in a certain sequence: a waterproofing layer, warming, vapor barrier, and, finally, an internal sheathing.

Preliminary preparation

As you know, the main thing in a Russian bath is a properly installed stove. It needs to be built before you can tackle the interior. And in this case, it is better to turn to the help of a professional stove-maker, who will determine where the hearth should be, set the correct direction of the bends and build the body.

Installing a traditional brick or stone stove will require special attention to features such as the soil on which the bath is built, the materials used to build the walls, the type of roof, and even the climatic conditions of the area. To make it much easier for yourself, you can turn to modern technology. In the construction markets and in specialized stores, there is a huge selection of boilers and stoves, which in their functionality are in no way inferior to the classic stone bath stove, but in comparison with it, they are completely safe, and also economical and easy to use.

Such a heating device does not require special skills from you, you can install it yourself, or with the help of a specialist, and rather quickly and without subsequent cleaning of the accumulated construction waste. Manufacturers provide customers with a complete set of necessary equipment and additional devices.

After the oven is installed, install the electrical wiring, ensure its insulation and the necessary leads, and then proceed directly to the interior decoration.

Learn more about skin layers

Insulation of the walls of the bath, and especially the steam room, should begin with a layer that provides waterproofing. It will help to avoid the formation of condensation on the outer walls in contact with hot air and constant temperature changes. You should pay special attention to any possibility of exposure to dampness on the walls: the occurrence of mold and mildew not only adversely affects wooden surfaces, up to rotting, but can also have a detrimental effect on your health.

The most commonly used waterproofing materials are foil or plastic sheeting. Stretch evenly measured parts of the material from the roll, leaving allowances of about 10-15 cm, carefully stretch the film or foil sheet to avoid tears and damage, and fix them with a construction stapler. At the junction of individual sheets, there should be an overlap of 10-15 cm, which will not allow moisture from the outside to enter the gap and settle on the insulation layer.

After the waterproofing of the walls, floor and ceiling is completed and all possible gaps are closed, proceed with the installation of the thermal insulation layer. To begin with, sheets of clean, thoroughly dried paper are attached to the surface. To keep the loss of hot air to a minimum, the sheets should be fastened with a sufficiently large overlap.

After that, a pre-fabricated frame is installed on the surface to be insulated. For it, you will need wooden blocks with a cross section of 50 X 50 mm, properly impregnated with an antiseptic. The spacing between the bars must exactly match the width of the roll of material that is being used.

A few words about the choice of thermal insulation material. In the modern construction and repair market, you can find a lot of options for various properties, quality and price category. But until now the most widespread and demanded is mineral wool. Synthetic soft boards are also gaining popularity. These inorganic materials are durable, fireproof, do not absorb moisture and subsequent decay, and also do not interest small rodents and insects.

Installing a heat and vapor barrier layer

The thickness of the layer of heat-insulating material directly depends on the design of the surface to be insulated. It should be noted that the floor of the bath, both wooden and concrete, is insulated according to a certain technology, and this work is laborious enough to devote a separate article to it. Now we are considering the insulation of the walls and ceiling of a traditional wooden bath.

The ceiling is subject to much more thorough insulation than the walls, so the layer of mineral wool on it should be twice as thick. This is due to the fact that the hot air in the steam room rises, and it is through the ceiling that the maximum heat loss occurs.

So, the frame previously made of beams is installed on the surface and carefully fastened with self-tapping screws or bushings. An even piece of insulating material is placed in a step between the bars. It should fit tightly, without free spaces and overlaps. The edges of the material are fixed with a construction stapler.

At the end of the laying of mineral wool, the time comes for the next stage - vapor barrier. Aluminum foil is most often used in this capacity, since it not only protects the insulation from steam and moisture, but also has reflective properties. Thanks to this quality, the foil creates in the steam room the so-called "thermos effect", which retains the heat inside the room for a long time.

So, to install a vapor barrier layer, you will need:

  • Aluminum foil in the required amount;
  • Thin slats for lathing;
  • Small wallpaper nails or construction stapler;
  • Scotch tape or duct tape.

For vapor barrier, it is preferable to take a foil with a thickness of 65 microns. This material is optimal in terms of density and strength, which is easy to work with.

First of all, you should prepare the crate. Since the room of the bath and steam room is small, it will be easy to make the crate by stuffing the slats to the frame of the insulating layer.

After that, sheets of foil are fixed to the crate with wallpaper nails or a stapler. At the same time, they should be well, but not too tight and carefully aligned. The overlap of the sheets on each other should not be more than 5 cm. Since the vapor barrier layer must be continuous, the sheets are connected with tape at all joints.

The main condition for the materials used: they must be environmentally friendly, and when exposed to heat and moisture, they must not emit extraneous odors of a chemical nature. That is why such common building materials as roofing felt, roofing felt or glassine are not used in the interior decoration of the bath.

Internal lining of the steam room

After the "sandwich" of hydro, heat and vapor insulation is ready, we proceed to the final stage - facing the walls and ceiling in the room with the help of lining. Traditionally, natural wood is chosen for cladding, mainly hardwood, such as linden, maple, aspen and alder. These materials are optimally suited in terms of quality, properties, and, moreover, their price is low. Softwood planks can release resin when exposed to heat, which is unpleasant for the skin. If, after all, the coniferous aroma in the bath is very important for you, then choose cedar. It has a high density and low resin content.

  • The high density of the wood will provide resistance to high humidity and protection from decay;
  • Lowest or no resins as much as possible;
  • The surface of the board must be absolutely smooth, without gaps and knots;
  • The wood should have low thermal conductivity, that is, it should not heat up too much, so as not to cause burns on the skin.

Install a frame made of bars on the mounted vapor barrier layer, which will hold the lining on itself. After that, fill the boards one by one, carefully adjusting them with a wooden mallet. For fixing, you can use nails or self-tapping screws, the main condition is that the caps must be buried in the surface, so that later lovers of bath procedures do not get hurt in the process.

Usually, the location of the lining when sheathing is horizontal or vertical. The vertical method is simpler and can be applied in any direction. When using the horizontal method, the lining should be stuffed from the bottom up to prevent water from getting into the joints and grooves.

Most often, the lining is fastened in a secret. To do this, grooves are cut on each board, which are superimposed on each other. This will provide a tighter fit, which means protection from moisture and temperature extremes for the insulation layers and the inner surface of the lining.

Video about the interior decoration of the bath


After all the stages of arranging your bath are completed, the final touch remains - creating a comfortable and cozy interior. This is a great excuse to show your imagination, so that later on your vacation will give you exceptional pleasure, and the bath procedures are not only aesthetic, but also health-improving in nature. We wish you a light steam!

If there are specific conditions in the room, the repair of the walls in it must be carried out taking this fact into account. For example, baths are characterized by an increased level of humidity and sudden changes in temperature. Let's talk further about what can be the decoration of the bath inside the photo of finished interiors from the inside and just advice from experienced designers further in the selection.

To create a unique interior inside a bath made of bricks, aerated concrete, expanded polystyrene blocks or other materials, finishing materials with different operational parameters, external aesthetics and installation specifics can be used. However, it must be remembered that the interior decoration of the bath must certainly be durable, practical, resistant to the aggressive environment of this room. Therefore, it is not worth doing it with low-quality materials, especially in a steam room, where there are high temperatures.

Pre-study the features of the most popular options today in order to avoid mistakes. Next, we will present a photo and a brief description of modern finishing materials that should be used for these purposes.

Lining

Often, lining is used to decorate the interior of a Russian bath made of blocks and aerated concrete, as well as the adjacent steam room and washing room. The wood used for the production of such cladding can have different characteristics, which determines the subsequent operational parameters of the planks.

Many options are suitable for the interior cladding of the walls of a bath made of foam blocks, aerated concrete, a board with a board, however, you should not choose a lining made of coniferous species, since such wood is capable of emitting resin under the influence of hot steam.

Decorating the bath with clapboard has a number of advantages, which is appreciated by experienced builders and ordinary buyers:

  • ecological cleanliness and safety, absence of toxic components, radioactive particles in the material;
  • the lining allows the base made of aerated concrete to "breathe" by regulating the level of humidity inside the dressing room, steam room, washing room. This helps to prevent the risk of condensation, mold, mildew;
  • the installation of the material is carried out on a wooden lathing quickly, without difficulties. The strips are inserted into one another by means of the comb-groove mechanism, so repairs with such material are performed quickly and without problems;
  • affordable cost distinguishes the lining from the background of alternative options. Almost every our compatriot will be able to afford such repairs at a cost, because its implementation does not require huge financial investments.

Decorating a bath with clapboard is shown in the following photo: this is a practical, inexpensive and attractive interior option that you can implement yourself.

The main advice that experienced builders give to beginners in such matters is to abandon the options "in tongue" and "in a quarter". It is worth giving preference only to lining with groove crest profiles, because it does not move during operation, violating the tightness and tightness of the joints.

The block house has excellent characteristics, which is very important for aerated concrete baths. This is a decent thickness, contributing to additional insulation of the walls of the building, environmental friendliness, naturalness, high resistance to fungus, mold when treated with an antiseptic.

The DIY block house decoration is distinguished by its incredibly attractive aesthetics, as evidenced by the following photo. But the repair of such a room should be carried out only by certain classes of such material, since not all of the existing options are suitable. And especially for the steam room, which is characterized by high air temperatures.

The material is fastened on top of the lathing made of wood, treated with an antiseptic, and in places where it is adjacent to the heating equipment, it is insulated with simple mineral wool.

Timber imitation

The external and internal decoration of the bath with your own hands can be done by imitation of a bar, as is done in the interior in the next photo. One gets the impression that the walls are faced with an ordinary board, but imitation of a bar is much more practical in use.

This easy-to-use material is distinguished by its low cost, environmental friendliness, and high aesthetic qualities. It very accurately repeats the appearance of a natural timber, ensures the maintenance of an optimal microclimate in the room, acts as an additional sound and thermal insulation for the walls of the bath.

Before installation in the interior of the dressing room, it must be removed from the packaging and left for several days in the room where it will be installed. Then the walls under the cladding are cleaned of dust, primed, covered with a crate and the very imitation of a bar. We also note that repairs with such material allow you to insulate and waterproof the walls inside the room. To increase the resistance of the bath to an aggressive environment, its finish should be varnished.

Tile

The interior decoration of the bath with your own hands using tiles is presented to the reader in the next photo. This is a highly practical option, featuring a long service life, absolute resistance to high humidity, and easy maintenance.

The main thing is to choose the right type of tile from a large number of alternatives that is the most relevant for the conditions of a paired tile. Experts recommend preferring the glazed version, which demonstrates high resistance to sudden temperature changes. But unenamelled tiles do not tolerate such conditions well and quickly lose their original appearance. It is worth making sure that the tiles for the floor and walls of the washroom have a rough surface so that the room is as safe as possible.

It is worth refusing in a steam room made of foam blocks from tiles with a porous structure, which is capable of absorbing moisture. But the shape of such a material can be classical (square, rectangle) or non-standard (hexagon, rhombus).

Weaving from bamboo or vine

Often weaving from bamboo or vine is used for the dressing room. Such an original lining for the walls of the bathhouse from the inside is presented in the interior in the following photo. In addition to the unusual aesthetics of this design, experts note its durability and wear resistance. While this design doesn't come cheap, it can surprise and cheer you up. But in a steam room made of aerated concrete, it is better not to use it.

Bath interior finishing options

The bathhouse is a complex structure, consisting of several rooms with different conditions and specifics:

  • the dressing room is intended for undressing, therefore it should be warm and comfortable;
  • the steam room is used for rest, relaxation, enjoying the steam. All materials used here must be environmentally friendly and safe;
  • the sink must be practical, resistant to water and moisture.

Let's determine which materials are most relevant in the described bath premises.

Dressing room

It is not so easy to choose material for the design of the dressing room, because it is exposed to prolonged exposure to an increased level of humidity, but at the same time it must be warm. For example, the tiles are completely unsuitable for the dressing room because of the feeling of coolness. But the wood heats up quickly and retains heat for a long time, which is important for the dressing room. In addition, it is attractive in appearance, environmentally friendly, has a natural scent that has a calming effect on humans. You can also repair the dressing room with clapboard, imitation of a bar or weaving from bamboo. These options have natural aesthetics and are practical to use. Look at the photo below, which shows the interior with such a finish.

Also, the walls of the dressing room must be insulated with special materials so that it is as warm as possible.

Steam room

Successful decoration of the relaxation room in the bath, as it was done in the interior in the photo. Experts note that the interior of the dressing room can be decorated in any design style. And the room of the steam room is difficult, since it is often small in size. The steam room should be decorated stylishly, inexpensively, simply, and provide enough space for free circulation of hot steam.

The most relevant materials for the walls, floor, ceiling of the steam room are natural wood, lining. Such materials are environmentally friendly, attractive in appearance, and allow for thermal insulation of the base. Opt for a linden tree that does not overheat and retains its original aesthetics for a long time. Stylish, but at the same time, the combination of wood and brick in a single space of a steam room looks simple.

In no case should you use conifers due to the presence of resin in their composition, which, under the influence of high temperatures in the steam room, releases gluten. Also, you should not repair the steam room with wood boards, linoleum, fiberboard, chipboard. These materials are capable of releasing toxic components into the air, are susceptible to decay and swelling under the influence of moisture, and are fire hazardous. The interior of the steam room should be supplemented with sturdy furniture: shelves, sun loungers, rounded benches. The ceiling surface is decorated with point light.

Furnish the stove in the bath must be done with materials resistant to high temperatures. The best option is considered to be a natural stone or its analogue on an artificial basis. The use of brick is no less relevant and simple, but it has a less attractive appearance. To give the material high aesthetics, it can be faced with decorative bricks.

Washing room

Washing room decor can be done in different ways. For example, it can be combined with a steam room and completely decorated with wood, because mold dies under the influence of high temperatures. This option is shown in the photo below.

Also, the repair of the washing room can provide for the isolation of the washing room, but then it needs to ensure optimal air circulation. Then conifers that can withstand a significant level of moisture will be relevant for the washing room. But the synthetic options in the washing room must be abandoned due to their toxicity.

In order to ensure the washing simple maintenance, it is better to decorate the walls with durable, practical, wear-resistant tiles. It is no less relevant for finishing the floors of the washing room, but you need to prefer rough, non-slip options. The tile looks very beautiful, expensive, but at the same time simple. Note that the tile is successfully combined with many other types of finishes. The photo below shows the interior of the washroom, where tiles and wooden slats are successfully combined. The main thing is to provide the slats in the washroom with a snug fit. From the furniture in the aerated concrete washing room, you need to have benches, sun loungers.

Warming and waterproofing

If you start the construction and interior decoration of the bath with the selection of high-quality materials, the decoration of the bath outside and inside will be as attractive, durable, wear-resistant and practical as possible. But in addition, experts recommend insulating and waterproofing the walls of such buildings from the inside. This will make the bath warmer, because high-quality thermal insulation and waterproofing can prevent the rapid penetration of hot air and steam through the walls to the outside.

The specificity of the work is determined by the type of building material from which the building was erected. Brick walls do not have cracks, but a non-insulated brick bath heats up for a long time. Therefore, a brick building is insulated, waterproofed and covered with a finishing finish. The optimal insulation for bricks is mineral wool with high strength, thermal insulation characteristics, and resistance to high temperatures. And as a waterproofing, isospan is used for bricks, which provides mineral wool with reliable protection against moisture. Experts recommend, when insulating a brick bath, to drill metal brackets into the walls with a step equal to the width of the insulation. Mineral wool is laid between them, and the joints are insulated with construction tape. Isospan is pulled over the mineral wool, and brick wall trim is mounted on top of it.


Wall insulation scheme in the bath

Expanded polystyrene blocks have a porous surface, the material can absorb moisture, so the structure of such blocks must be insulated and protected from moisture. Thermal insulation of a bath from such blocks is carried out with mineral wool, and walls made of blocks and insulation are subject to waterproofing. Isospan or a membrane film or isospan are used as waterproofing. We also note that for a bath made of blocks, it is necessary to organize a ventilation gap between the insulation and the finishing lining to prevent the material from heating up and the formation of condensation. A wooden crate is mounted on the walls of blocks, on it a layer of membrane film, mineral wool, a layer of isospan, and on top of the decorative cladding of a bathhouse made of blocks.


Thermal insulation of the walls of the bath from the inside

Insulation and waterproofing of aerated concrete buildings are similar in their specificity to foam block baths, because aerated concrete walls are porous, which means they can absorb moisture. Therefore, aerated concrete masonry is treated with an antiseptic, covered with crate, insulation (mineral wool) and waterproofing material (isospan), and only then with decorative sheathing.

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After the construction of the bath, the turn of finishing work begins. Internal cladding serves an aesthetic function and is also used as protection for wall, ceiling and floor surfaces. The use of furniture in this room will allow you to give the interior your own style and a certain completeness. Decorating the bath inside, a photo of which can be viewed on the website, can be done by hand. To do this, you will need to prepare certain materials and familiarize yourself with the technology for carrying out installation work.

It is important to select quality materials before finishing the interior of the bath. Photo of interiors allows you to choose the appropriate option.

Materials should have the following advantages:

  • resistance to moisture and vapors;
  • hygiene and environmental friendliness;
  • durability and strength;
  • aesthetic qualities.

The inside cladding must not be varnished or painted, as such coatings will not let steam through. There should be a space of 20-30 mm between the facing material and the frame. In some cases, ceramics can be used. This material does not absorb moisture and does not crack. Since this kind of flooring is cold, wood flooring can be laid on top.

Helpful advice! It is better to use linden lining. Pine or spruce is not suitable for this room.

How to insulate and insulate walls?

Allows you to see the features of finishing the bath inside the photo. The steam room must first be insulated. In some cases, mineral wool is used, which is laid on the crate. If the bath is built of stone or concrete, then you can do without. It is important to properly waterproof the structure. Aluminum foil or even a vapor barrier film is best suited for such purposes.

Wall insulation is carried out taking into account certain recommendations:

  • when cutting insulation, you need to leave allowances of 5 mm. This will ensure high-quality fixation of the material;
  • when installing a vapor barrier material, it is necessary to maintain the integrity of the membrane and mount it with an overlap. In this case, the joints are fastened with mounting tape;
  • when working in small rooms, thermal insulation boards can be used, which are convenient to install even for one person.

If it is made of brick, then the thickness of the insulation can be about 10 cm. If the wall is made of timber more than 20 cm, then they can not be insulated. After finishing, you also need original decor items.

Particularly noteworthy is the decoration of the sauna rest room inside. Photos of interesting solutions can be found on the Internet.

Knowledge of some of the intricacies of installation will help to carry out the finishing work qualitatively:

  • in the steam room, it is necessary to raise the floor level by 16-25 cm above the washing room. This will prevent excess moisture from entering the steam room;
  • it is worth preferring an edged board or grooved one. Both options must be moisture resistant;
  • before performing the cladding, you need to carry out all the necessary communications;
  • when installing benches and shelves, you should make sure that their edges are rounded;
  • no gaps are left between the boards.

Natural wood is used for interior decoration. Walls can be sheathed with clapboard, especially from cedar. An original interior can be created using a block house. These are processed boards that imitate real timber.

Windows and doors should be kept small to reduce heat loss. Doors must be strong and thick. For internal cladding, boards without knots are selected.

You can do a beautiful finish in the bath with your own hands. If you choose high-quality material and follow all installation technologies, then you can create a functional and original cladding.

Video: ideas for decorating steam rooms and saunas

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The steam room is the most important place in the bath. To enjoy your stay in the steam room and to fully experience the benefits of its effects on the body, you need the right wall decoration.

The effect of visiting will increase even more if the decoration of the steam bath is made by hand.

Choice of materials

To the question "How to decorate the bath inside?" one can unambiguously answer that the most suitable material is - special panels for wall cladding, the main advantages of which are:

  • good microcirculation, allowing the walls to breathe
  • no condensation
  • pleasing to the eye
  • ease of installation
  • acceptable cost

The best breeds deciduous (aspen, larch, linden, alder, ash) have long been considered initial for the manufacture of lining, since the walls of them allow the room to warm up quickly, and at the same time remain comfortable for humans in temperature.

This type of material does not emit resinous substances when heated and therefore does not harm health.

Of the listed species, larch is the most preferable (and not only for wall cladding), but it is also the most expensive material in terms of cost.

Linden lining it is desirable to process first a special composition (of course, from natural ingredients) to preserve its original - almost white - color.

Aspen lining, due to its hardness, is also a good cladding material, but experts prefer use it for ceiling and walls.

Durable, resistant to decay is ash, with a beautiful core of which an attractive effect can be achieved.

Alder, which has a strong, even structure and a pleasant light brown color with a peculiar pink tint, can become a worthy finishing material ( especially inside a bath made of foam blocks).

It is not advised to take as a starting material for lining, birch due to its loose structure and susceptibility to drying out during harvesting.

If, nevertheless, for some reason you have to make lining from this breed, then it must be borne in mind that it has a loose structure and in the process of preparation for use will be prone to drying out.

A relatively new material that professionals advise to use for covering walls in a steam room is a lining made of African oak abash(or Abashi).

This coverage has a number of most valuable properties, thanks to which this material is considered almost ideal:

  • low level of thermal conductivity;
  • lightness and at the same time strength;
  • resistance to deformation, absence of cracks and chips during sawing and drilling;
  • not susceptible to decay;
  • the presence of a peculiar, beautiful pattern on the surface.

This material has only one drawback - it is rather high cost... But it is overlapped by the properties mentioned above.

Whatever source material the lining is made of, it must be pre-well dried and processed so that it does not have any roughness.

What cannot be used in the steam room?

It is unacceptable to trim steam room with conifers (spruce, pine). The reasons for this are as follows:

  • with strong heating of the walls, touching them can become unexpected and rather unpleasant;
  • droplets of emitted resin can get on the skin and burn it.

Hardwoods such as oak and walnut are not recommended. This is due to their high heat capacity, which leads to the accumulation and retention of heat on their surface.

In a steam room, the walls of which are lined with clapboard made of oak or walnut, usually It's difficult to breathe... In addition, accidentally touching them can burn your skin.

Do not cover the walls in the steam room with chemical materials: varnish, stain and other similar compounds.

It's connected with harmful effects of chemicals on the human body at very high temperatures.

DIY finishing process

Basic moments interior decoration in stages:

  1. Manufacturing of lathing;
  2. Fastening of steam and heat insulation;
  3. Installation of wooden panels.

Requirements for the installation of the crate

Hydro and thermal insulation of the steam room walls

For vapor barrier most often they use aluminum foil, as well as foamed polymeric materials (polypropylene). The advantage of polymeric materials is that they have both steam and heat insulation qualities.

These materials, laminated with foil, not only help maintain a high temperature in the steam room, but also resist the accumulation of moisture and the appearance of fungus.

Sequencing:

  1. Attach to the wall from a bar (mineral wool is best suited for this purpose).
  2. Fasten a layer of foil to the insulation.
  3. Install the lathing (it is necessary to create an air gap between the lining and the foil layer).

Installation of lining

For a step-by-step guide on how to properly sheathe the walls and ceiling with clapboard, see the video instructions:

Features of dressing the dressing room

Find out more about the secrets of decorating a bath from the video below: