Rip sawing fence.
Having perfectly aligned the saw with one of the edges of the table, I attached it with M4 screws. To do this, I had to drill the iron base of the circular in four places.
For installation on a table, in general, any circular is suitable, but if you choose the type of fastening with screws to the base, then it is better to choose a model with an iron base. Cast may crack.
There is another popular way to attach the circular to the table without drilling holes in the base - to attach it using clamps that fix the base, pressing it to the surface. Only to me this method did not seem correct enough in terms of accuracy and reliability of the installation, and I did not apply it.
Another important parameter of the manual circular is the ability to connect a vacuum cleaner. If you cut without a vacuum cleaner, fine wood dust rises into the air.
The disc sawn through to the top of the tabletop. Height - 40mm (160mm Bosh wood disc). The table top reduces the cutting depth by 9 mm. The cutting depth is set on the circular itself. Conveniently, the disc can be completely hidden in the table.
UPD: IMPORTANT! On a number of budget circulars, it may turn out that the disc is tilted imperceptibly. And all the cuts will be chamfered. It is imperative to check with an instrumental square that the disc is at 90 degrees, relative to the table surface. (before installing the saw, you can check the angle relative to your native site. If the disc is not at a right angle and there is no way to set the ideal angle of the site, you can put several strips of tin on one side under the site, achieving an ideal angle (you can use washers for the screws that fasten the saw to the table, but this solution is worse)
I placed a saw socket inside the table, which will now be turned on by the start button.
This is how you can connect a vacuum cleaner to the saw. In general, the table is ready and can be cut. (made in one evening and one morning).
Sawing without equipment is of course possible using slats and clamps, but it is inconvenient.
This structure, pressing against the edges of the table and aligning with them, can move along the saw blade. Pressing the rail on the slide, you can easily saw it at exactly 90 o. Thin pieces of wood can be placed inside the sled.
You can even cut a slat like a sausage :) For example, I cut several pieces of different thickness.
Skids solve only part of the problem. For rip sawing, you also need a side fence.
I glued brackets from plywood that will cling to the edge of the table.
Grips the edges with a death grip.
A circular saw is a dangerous tool. In order not to saw off my fingers, I made a simple pusher from the waste of the furniture board.
I have already worked with this table, sawed and slats, furniture board, plywood. It became much easier to carry out all these work than I did when sawing off with a hand-held circular saw.
In the future, I will further refine this table:
- I will redo the side fence for rip sawing so that, when moving, it always remains parallel to the blade
- I will put a removable riving knife to which the disc protection will be attached
- I will make a dust extraction from the top of the table. (Now, when I saw, the disc throws wood dust in my face)
- I will finish the improved pusher. I have already started making a more interesting and convenient version of the pusher, I will write about this in the future.
I will gradually implement this in the future, but for now I will work like this.
Content:
Circular type machines belong to the class of specialized machining mechanisms, without which no well-equipped home workshop can do.
This sample of woodworking equipment is especially relevant in the conditions of a country house and a country house.
When evaluating the possibilities of purchasing off-the-shelf equipment, you will face a number of problems associated with the inconvenience of handling cheap stand-alone circular saws and the prohibitive cost of professional processing equipment.
The only correct approach to solving this problem is to make a circular machine with your own hands, using materials and equipment available for free sale.
Note! In order to save money in small-sized models of machine tools, an autonomous circular saw is most often used as a cutting tool, which is rigidly attached to the bed.
With the help of a home-made machine, you can saw boards, shave off a slab, and also make bars of the section you need.
If you wish, it will be possible to significantly expand the functionality of your product, providing it with the possibility of processing wood using an electric planer.
Construction requirements
Before starting work, it will be necessary to prepare a small sketch, which should indicate not only the location of all structural elements of the future machine, but also their main dimensions. When drawing such a sketch, you should take into account that your circular machine can consist of the following functional units:
- bed, which serves as the basis of the entire product;
- tabletops with an industrial model of a circular hand saw installed on it;
- remote control panel for switching on and off the actuator (circular saw).
Small-sized table-type circular machine
The specified composition of the machine is typical for small-sized products on a wooden bed. For capital equipment made on the basis of metal profiles (corners), its scheme has a slightly different form. The composition of such a product should include the following elements:
- a base of steel frames and brackets, on which a shaft with a drive pulley is mounted in bearing pairs;
- tabletop with slots for the processing blade, installed over the metal frame and rigidly fixed to it;
- a set of special drive electrical equipment located in the lower part of the bed and providing the required functionality of the device (it includes an electric motor, a starting device and a transformer-converter).
The main requirement for any type of bed is to ensure maximum reliability and stability of the structure. As options for the execution of the machine base, we will consider both frames made of metal profiles (corners) and supporting structures made of wood.
When familiarizing yourself with the requirements for the electrical equipment of a home-made machine, first of all, you should determine the drive power of the cutting tool (or autonomous saw), which for domestic conditions should not exceed 850 watts.
Stationary circular machine
In addition, before preparing a sketch of a future product, such technical characteristics of the equipment used should be taken into account, such as:
- Depth of cut, which sets the allowable thickness of wood pieces to be processed on your machine. This indicator for industrial samples of woodworking equipment ranges from 5 to 8 cm, which is quite enough for cutting standard boards and thick plywood.
Additional information: In the event that you need to process wood blanks of greater thickness, it is necessary to provide a special lifting mechanism in the bed, which allows you to change the position of the disc in height.
- Before making a capital machine with a separate drive, the operating speed of the rotor of the electric motor should be taken into account. The choice of this parameter is determined by the lumber processing modes that you will most often have to deal with. This can be relatively low for simple cutting of wood pieces, but for a perfectly flat (“clean”) cut you will need a higher speed.
Important! The optimal speed for homemade cutting machines is considered to be a speed that does not exceed the value 4500 rpm... At low engine speeds, the bed can be made on the basis of a reinforced wooden frame, massive enough to prevent vibration of the mechanism.
- When drawing up a sketch, the requirements for ergonomics should also be taken into account, implying ease of control of the operation of the equipment, as well as the safety of handling it. They relate to the order of the buttons on the operating panel, the limitation of access to the cutting blade, as well as the electrical protection of the drive or individual control elements.
After taking into account all possible requirements for the future machine, you can proceed to its direct assembly.
Bed based on metal profiles (angles)
The upper part of the metal frame is most conveniently made in the form of a 600 x 400mm rectangular frame welded from 25mm corners. Pipe billets with a length of 220 mm are welded to the four corners of this structure (the recommended pipe diameter is 17-20 mm).
The bed must ensure the rigidity of the machine structure
Two longitudinal angles are fixed on the frame with bolts, which are used to fasten the shaft in the bearing cage.
The distance between the corners is determined based on the length of the shaft, and the bearings used for installation are fixed to them with special clamps.
In order to make it more stable, the lower part of the bed frame is made (welded) from 40 mm metal corners.
A closed bearing is used to mount the working shaft.
Two jumpers of the same material are welded across the frame, used to secure the electric motor. There is also a metal platform for the installation of launching equipment.
Bearings are attached to the bed with special clamps
At the corners of the resulting structure, pipe blanks are welded with a length corresponding to the size of the pipes on the upper frame, but with a slightly larger diameter (23-25mm).
Closer to their edge, special clamps (lambs) are made, used to clamp the lifting pipes of the upper frame, which are moved when the drive belt is tensioned.
The procedure for assembling the mechanical part of such a machine includes the following operations:
- first, bearings No. 202 are taken and hammered into the working shaft with force;
- after that, on the same shaft, a pulley is fixed with an interference fit, previously turned on a lathe and having an inner diameter of the groove of 50 mm;
- then a thread is cut at the end of the shaft for a bolt used to clamp the cutting tool (for more reliable fixation, it will be possible to put paronite and metal washers under the bolt);
- upon completion of this part of the work, we proceed to the installation of the drive, manufactured on the basis of a three-phase asynchronous motor with a power of 1.5 kW, (1500 rpm). A pulley is mounted on the shaft of such an engine, which has an internal groove size of about 80 mm;
- at the next stage of assembling the frame, two finished halves of the bed are connected together (while pipes of a smaller diameter are inserted into larger ones);
- at the end of the work, a belt is pulled on the shaft, and then the structure is fixed in this position by means of special clamps - "lambs".
Machine on a wooden frame
The simplest and most affordable way of making a machine bed involves the use of ordinary boards or thick plywood for these purposes. In this embodiment, the actuator is located directly under the table (table top), in which a slot of appropriate dimensions is made for the cutting blade.
The frame made of wood is reliable and easy to manufacture
As an example, we will consider the option of manufacturing a bed with a height of approximately 110 - 120 cm, intended for fixing a hand-held circular saw on it. The length of the countertop of this design can be changed within small limits at your discretion.
Note! The height of the structure, if desired, can be adjusted, taking into account the height of the person working on the machine. And if it is necessary to process very long boards on it, the dimensions of the table top can be increased to the required size. In this case, you have to worry about installing additional support legs.
The most convenient material for the manufacture of countertops is multilayer plywood with a thickness of at least 50 mm. However, for these purposes, other materials can also be selected (plexiglass or fiberglass plates, for example). As for such a common material as chipboard, its use in this case is undesirable as it does not provide sufficient surface strength.
To make a machine on a wooden base, you need the following materials:
- blanking of sheet iron;
- standard sheet of thick plywood;
- a pair of beams with a section of 50 × 50 mm;
- thick boards with a standard size of 50 x 100 mm;
- a steel corner, necessary to increase the rigidity of the fastening of the guides;
- a circular saw;
- two clamps.
In addition, you will have to stock up on the following set of tools, without which the assembly of the machine is simply impossible:
- classic screwdriver and electric drill;
- a simple hacksaw for wood or a jigsaw;
- measuring instruments (square, tape measure, ruler);
- portable milling cutter for wood processing.
In the absence of such a milling cutter, it will be possible to use the help of friends or neighbors who have a milling machine in their household.
Additional Information: Some home craftsmen prefer to make countertops from kitchen tables that have served their time. However, such a structure will not be distinguished by durability, since the source material has been used for a long time in a damp room. That is why it will be wiser to make all the structural elements from new blanks, which at the same time will allow for your personal tastes and preferences.
Countertop manufacturing
Work on the manufacture of this piece of equipment is carried out in the following sequence:
We start by marking a piece of plywood so that its edges are flush with the edges of the prepared sheet of iron. After marking, using a hacksaw or electric jigsaw, you can cut the plywood blank to the required size. If desired, it will be possible to process its edges with a cutter, although this is not at all necessary (the main requirement for this element is its reliability, not attractiveness).
Upon completion of these operations, the surface of the countertop is carefully processed (rubbed over) with an emery cloth of medium grain size.
Then, on its lower part, the location of the slot for the saw blade is preliminarily marked. To do this, it is necessary to determine the dimensions of the sole of the circular saw prepared for installation. For the convenience of measurements, the saw blade is simply removed from the saw, after which it will be possible to easily determine the dimensions of the seat.
For the convenience of marking the tabletop, the saw blade is removed
After completing its preparation, you should take a circular saw and try it on at the installation site. If necessary, the position of the points of its attachment is adjusted (at the same time, the contours of the slot for the saw blade are refined).
The finished plywood tabletop is closed with a steel sheet, which is attached to it with self-tapping screws. Subsequently, it will be possible to apply special markings on the working surface, which allows you to adjust the position of the wood blank during its processing.
Assembling the frame
Both transverse and longitudinal beams of the frame, used as stiffeners, are also mounted on the lower plane of the table top. In total, four such strips will be required:
Two transverse lintels that do not reach the edge of the table top by 7-9 cm on each side.
Two longitudinal bars, the size of which corresponds to the same condition (they should not reach the edges of the tabletop by about 7-9 cm).
Taking into account these restrictions, it is necessary to outline the fixation points of the longitudinal bars and cross-members, in which the latter will be attached to the tabletop using self-tapping screws of a suitable size.
When marking points, the extreme of them is selected approximately at a distance of 40-50 mm from the edge of the bar (while the step between them should be about 23-25 \u200b\u200bcm).
Before the final assembly of the frame, through holes for self-tapping screws are drilled in all component parts (bars and tabletop). On the front side, the fastening elements are installed in such a way that their caps are completely hidden in the material.
To increase the strength of the future frame base, the bars adjacent to the countertop are pre-coated with carpentry glue.
After assembly, the structure is temporarily fixed with clamps, which can be removed after the glue has dried out.
Attaching the support legs
Table legs are made of bars of a suitable section (most often the same blanks 50x50 mm are used for these purposes). The height of the supports is selected for a specific person, that is, individually.
In this case, the fact that it is more convenient to work on a circular machine should be taken into account when the tabletop is at hip level. The shape of the legs before their final installation is being finalized taking into account that they taper towards the supporting part (the interface area with the frame base should exceed the area of \u200b\u200bthe floor support).
To increase the rigidity and stability of the structure, steel corners can be used in it, which are compressed in such a way as to provide additional "spacer" for the base. To secure them, special bolts with washers are used, installed with the caps outward.
Electrical diagram
In the capital version of the design of the circular machine, an autonomous drive is used, which includes an asynchronous type electric motor, the windings of which are connected to the power grid according to the triangle pattern.
Circular machine induction motor connection diagram
To control the operation and ensure the automatic start of the electric motor in the circuit, a magnetic starter is provided, built on the basis of an electronic switch (triac) and a current transformer.
To build a control scheme for a machine on a wooden frame (a variant involving the use of a hand-held circular saw), it will be enough to duplicate the on and off buttons of the mechanism, bringing them out and fixing them on one of the legs of the table top
You will learn more about connecting the machine's electric motor from the video.
The circular machine is the tool that no home craftsman can do without. This equipment is especially important for a country house or summer cottage. But working with a manual machine is not always convenient, and factory machines are quite expensive.
A way out of this situation can be the manufacture of this device with your own hands. The basis of this machine can be not only a hand-held circular saw, but even an electric drill or a grinder.
Making a bed for a circular machine with your own hands is very simple. For manufacturing, the most ordinary lumber and quite a bit of time.
Before you think over the design of the upcoming machine, you need to calculate the load to which it will be subjected. The main thing in the bed is reliability and stability... For heavy-duty production saws, the base is a welded, reinforced metal structure. But for do-it-yourself use, such a unit is not needed.
If you just decided to make your own woodworking machine, then you need take into account the main parameters equipment. Since the saws can be different, of course, the design of the bed can also be different.
First of all you need determine the power of the tool... As a rule, for home use, equipment is chosen where the power parameters do not exceed 850 watts. But, for example, when building a summer cottage or a country house, it is often necessary to saw a very large amount of wood.
That is, the power of the circular is required more. But experienced craftsmen do not advise buying saws where this figure is more than 1250 watts. Installing this equipment in a home workshop is absolutely not justified. And working on it will only increase the cost of electricity.
The greater the productivity of the machine, the more stable the base is needed for it. For professional circulars, as a rule, a base is installed, welded from steel profile... Sometimes these stands are even concreted into the floor. Since vibration of the device can lead to danger to life.
Technical features of circular machines
Depth of the proposed cut... This parameter determines the thickness of the material that will be processed on your machine. This indicator in semi-professional and professional machines fluctuates in the range of 5-8 cm. For cutting boards and thick plywood, this is quite enough.
But it will be inconvenient to work with logs on this machine. In addition, it must be borne in mind that this characteristic decreases with a homemade saw. The depth of the cut will be approximately 1 cm less. But this can be avoided if the table frame is provided with the ability to lower or raise the disc.
When making a tool with your own hands, you need take into account the frequency of its rotation... If you need a circular for the procurement of building materials, then this figure may be less. If you need a clean and even cut, then the speed needs to be quite high. This is necessary, for example, for the manufacture of furniture.
But in this case, there are certain nuances. This saw is not suitable for cutting plastic materials. Due to very high tool revolutions the disc is warming upand the plastic starts to melt.
Therefore, it is better to choose an apparatus where the rotational speed is not more than 4500 rpm, in this case the frame for the circular saw can be make from wood... The vibration of this machine is low and additional table reinforcement is not required.
Well, in the end, what needs to be foreseen is the location of the buttons and other controls on your machine. When assembling the saw with your own hands, do not forget that access to the control panel should be safe... This rule is all the more important in the case when the open part of the saw is at the bottom of the tabletop.
In this version, the panel with switches is best placed from the outside of the machine or make a lifting tabletop. This design is also convenient for device maintenance. Then, when you have taken into account all the nuances and little things, you can begin the direct assembly of the table.
Making a circular saw with your own hands
The simplest version of a circular bed is a structure made of boards and thick plywood. Moreover, the tool is directly attached to the bottom of the stationary tabletop. For the saw, a special slot is made in the table top.
The dimensions for the table can be changed the way it is convenient for you to work on it. For example, an average table is described, the height of which is 110-120 cm. But a lot depends on the height of the person working with the equipment. Also, at your request, you can change the length of the table top.
If you intend to work with boards with a length of more than 2.6 m, then the cover on the bed will need more. In this case, changes must be made directly to the design and additionally add some supports (legs). Otherwise, the table will generate strong vibrations.
For countertops, usually plywood is used, with a thickness of at least 5 cm. But you can also choose plexiglass or fiberglass plates. But professionals do not recommend using chipboard, this material is not reliable enough.
Tools and materials for assembly
For a circular saw, it is imperative to provide guides. They help cut wood much more accurately. This construction welded from a steel angle and fixed to the lid with clamps.
It is undesirable to fix stationary guides, since later you will not be able to change their position.
To build a table, you will need the following materials:
- iron sheet;
- plywood sheet;
- timber measuring 50 × 50 mm;
- board size 50 × 100 mm;
- steel corner for guides;
- two clamps;
- hand-held circular saw.
You also need to pre-prepare all the tools that will be needed to assemble the table:
- Screwdriver, electric drill.
- Hacksaw or electric jigsaw.
- Measurement tools (tape measure, square, ruler).
- Hand cutter or milling machine.
When everything is ready, you can start assembling the table itself. Craftsmen sometimes assemble countertops from unnecessary dining or kitchen tables. But this design is unlikely to last long. Therefore, it is much wiser to make all the structural elements with your own hands. In this case, you can also take into account your personal needs.
Making a table top for a circular machine
The assembly of the table begins with the manufacture of the table top. The plywood sheet is marked so that the two edges of the lid are in size with the edges of the iron sheet. Plywood is cut out with a hacksaw or jigsaw.
The edge of the saw cut can be cut with a milling cutter, but this operation is optional. Since the main parameter in the bed is reliability, and not an attractive appearance. The table-top is rubbed "roughly" with sandpaper.
Bottom countertops mark circular slot... For this, you first need to measure the dimensions of the unit's sole. The easiest way to do this is to unscrew the blade from the device and simply circle the desired part of the saw. These measurements are required to determine the footprint.
With the help of a hand cutter, blocks are selected to a depth of approximately 0.9-1.1 cm. If you do not have a cutter, then this work can be done using a chisel, but it will take much longer.
Then, when the seat is made, try on the saw and, if necessary, adjust the indentation. Mark the places for the slot for the circle and for fixing the fasteners. If you need the circle to rise and fall, then you must install a pendulum mechanism for countertops.
In this case, the slot must be made in the form of a truncated pyramid. In this case, the hypothetical top of the pyramid will be directed downward. Directly the frame for the lifting mechanism is best make from steel cornersthat are welded together.
Manufacturing the table frame
It is best to install the markings for fixing the transverse and longitudinal slats, which function as stiffeners, from the seamy side of the tabletop. The strips are made directly from a bar. You will need:
- Two transverse parts, long equal to the width of the table top minus 7-9 cm on each side.
- Two longitudinal ribs equal to the length of the lid minus 7-9 cm on each side.
Then you need make nests for self-tapping screws... The slats must be fixed on the lid so that the table top extends 7-9 cm beyond the frame edges. The fasteners must be as reliable and durable as possible.
The first fixture must be installed approximately 40-50 mm from the edge of the rail. The distance between the screws is approximately 23-25 \u200b\u200bcm.All details need to drill through... The self-tapping screw is attached from the side of the lid so that its head is completely recessed in the tree.
First, the transverse ribs are fixed. In order for the table top to be as strong as possible, the edges of the rail must first be spread with wood glue... The structure is fixed with clamps, and without removing them, screws are screwed in.
The table top is allowed to dry completely. After, the longitudinal slats are installed in the same way. Then the parts of the frame are pulled together, installing two fasteners on each side. The clamps can now be removed.
Fastening the legs (supports)
The table legs are made from a bar. The height of the supports is selected individually. In practice, it is most convenient to work at the machine when the table top located at hips... Before fastening, each support must be planed so that the leg goes down to an angle. So, the area of \u200b\u200bthe base of the support should be slightly larger, in contrast to the area of \u200b\u200bthe top.
It is best to secure the legs with steel corners. They need to be tightened a little so that the base of the machine is in the "spacer". It gives the table extra durability... Bolts with washers are used as fasteners, they are fastened with caps outward. Otherwise, during operation, you can be injured on the protruding parts of the fasteners.
The whole structure will be more stable if the additional supports are pulled together with diagonal slats. They are attached in pairs from each side of the machine.
Cover surface polished and varnished or use a steel sheet to cover, which is attached to self-tapping screws. At the very end, at the prepared place, the tool is attached directly.
On the table top you can additionally make markup, it will help to cut wood smoothly and correctly. The circular saw control panel is located on the outside of the machine. As a rule, it is mounted on one of the table legs. That's all, the circular saw with your own hands is ready.
A stationary circular saw is the machine that every wood craftsman should have in his workshop. With its help, you can quickly and effortlessly cut a board, cut a workpiece of the required size, cut firewood.
A home craftsman is simply obliged to acquire such a machine. It is not necessary to buy it, a homemade circular is guaranteed to cope with the volume of work in a home workshop, while it will cost significantly less.
Circular saw device
A really useful tool, the circular has a fairly simple design. Its main nodes:
- bed - a frame on which the main units are mounted;
- table top with a slot for a disc;
- engine with rotation transmission system;
- cutting tool, disc with teeth.
Optionally, the device can be supplemented with a pusher, which provides translational advancement of the workpiece to the disc, and various lifting mechanisms that regulate the cutting depth.
The principle of operation of a circular saw (circular) is that the rotation of the electric motor shaft is transmitted to the cutting tool, a disk with sharply sharpened teeth. The center of the disc is located below the level of the table top, only its segment is removed from it. The workpiece is fed to the rotating disc, the teeth bite into the wood, creating an even cut.
Simple circular from a grinder or circular saw
An angle grinder (grinder) is one of the most demanded tools of a home craftsman, with its help it is easy to cut metal, clean welded seams. In addition, using a disc for wood instead of a standard abrasive disc, the grinder can be turned into a hand circular saw (it is also called a parquet floor), and by making a bed with a table - into a stationary circular saw.
Necessary accessories
For work you will need:
- multilayer plywood with a thickness of 10 mm or more;
- switch and wire;
- cap bolts;
- screws;
- wooden block 40x40 mm.
You also need to prepare a drill or screwdriver, hammer, screwdriver, pliers, ruler and pencil. With the help of these tools, you have to make a circular with your own hands.
Of course, we must not forget the grinder itself or the hand-held circular saw. At the first stage, it will help to cut the material, and then it will take place as a working body of the circular.
Sequencing
The first step is to make a circular case. Thick plywood is perfect for this, you can use any pressed wood panels. You will need to cut out four rectangular sheets, size 40 x 80 cm. Of these, a box with a square of 80 x 80 cm is assembled at the base. Four bars are installed in the corners for ease of assembly and structural reliability.
From above, the resulting box is closed with a table top. It can be made from the same plywood, but it is better to use some kind of laminated sheet material. This guarantees the durability of the machine, will provide ease of use of a homemade circular.
A cut is made in the table top to exit the disc, holes are drilled on the sides of it for fastening the tool.
The grinder must be securely fixed under the table top. The design of the latch can be very diverse, it all depends on the configuration of the machine itself. The main requirement for the mount is that it must securely hold the grinder, not allowing it to move.
The simplest fastening may look like this: two metal squares, a grinder is fixed between them with a steel clamp.
In the upper shelves of the squares holding the grinder, two holes are drilled. The structure is attached to the table top from below using countersunk screws. It remains only to block the power button, connect the grinder through an external switch.
In the same way, you can make a circular from a circular saw with your own hands. In this case, the work is greatly simplified due to the fact that there is no need to invent a mount. It is enough to make a cutout for the disc, drill holes in the holes of the hand-held circular saw plate.
Miniature machine made from a washing machine engine
The circular is characterized by extreme simplicity and availability of materials for its manufacture. Perhaps the only expensive part of it is the electric motor. Stationary machines are equipped with a powerful asynchronous motor, which provides cutting of thick wood of any species, but in a home workshop, you can limit yourself to less power.
Note! For sawing boards of medium thickness, it is enough to make a circular table driven by the washing machine engine with your own hands.
This design has several advantages. The engine from an old washing machine is inexpensive, moreover, a similar unit will probably be found in the household of a home craftsman. Connecting this motor is not particularly difficult, there is no need to look for circuits or solder. With all this, the power of such a unit is quite enough for most types of work.
The machine diagram can be simplified as much as possible by eliminating the belt drive. In this case, the cutting tool will be attached directly to the motor shaft. The base of the desktop mini-machine will be a frame assembled from a bar with a section of 40 x 40 mm. If desired, it can be welded from a corner or a profile pipe.
As a stand (tabletop) of a circular, a part of the body of an old TV, coated chipboard, is ideal. As practice shows, this part is notable for sufficient strength, and thanks to the varnish coating, it does not interfere with the sliding of the workpiece being processed.
In the tabletop, with a jigsaw, two parallel cuts are made perpendicular to the cut for the disk. A movable square will slide along them, playing the role of a side stop. It will help you make an even cut, if necessary, at a given angle.
Stationary machine
Those who plan to seriously engage in woodworking should think about making a full-fledged stationary circular saw. It should be a separate unit, mounted on a workbench, equipped with a powerful motor, with the ability to quickly replace the disc. It will take time to make such a circular with your own hands, but it will definitely pay off.
Despite the apparent simplicity of this device, before starting work, it is worth creating a drawing of the machine. This will allow you to clearly see the future unit, choose its optimal configuration.
Stanina
The basis of any machine is a bed, a frame on which all the main parts are mounted. The frame of the circular must be stable and reliable, therefore it is made of metal. It is preferable to use a profile pipe or a thick-walled square. Welding is used to connect parts. If a collapsible design is conceived, a bolted connection is suitable.
It will not be difficult to buy a suitable material; in any specialized metal store, you can pick up both pipes and a square. Those wishing to save money can be recommended to contact scrap metal dealers. You can buy the same thing from them, only cheaper.
Table top
The best material for making professional circular countertops is metal. Steel and aluminum-based alloys are excellent. For a budget option, you can limit yourself to thick plywood covered with sheet iron. In any case, the surface of the countertop must be smooth, resistant to friction and not sag under a weight of up to 50 kg.
A groove is made in the tabletop for the disc. It can be done in two ways. You can make a cut in a solid sheet, or you can assemble a tabletop from two halves. The second method is preferable for a metal tabletop, in which it is difficult to cut through at home.
If you wish, you can make a sawing machine for working outside the workshop, for this it is enough to provide for the possibility of installing a low-power gasoline engine, it can be removable.
Rotation transmission
The optimal drive of the circular is a V-belt drive. Two pulleys are used, one on the engine and one on the drive shaft. It is convenient and safe. There is no direct connection between the motor rotor and the disc; in the event of a jammed tool, the belt will begin to slip, signaling the need to turn off the power. In addition, using pulleys with several strands, of different diameters, it is possible to adjust the saw speed, choosing the optimal mode for different woods.
The rotation from the rotor of the motor is transmitted to the shaft. This is one of the most critical parts of the circular. It is unlikely that you will be able to make the shaft yourself; it is better to buy a ready-made one or order from a turner.
The shaft is mounted on bearings. They should be closed: circular - the sawing place and open ones will not last long.
Pendulum engine mount
Those who can boast of the ability to work with metal can be advised to make a circular with a pendulum engine mount. The main feature of the device is that the motor, shaft and cutting disc are mounted in one common frame. On the one hand, it is hinged on the bed, the other is held in place by a screw with the ability to adjust the height. By changing the length of the screw, you can adjust the height of the disc exit from the tabletop.
This system allows you to adjust the cutting height, as well as use discs of different diameters. If, instead of an adjusting screw, you use a dipstick brought out to the tabletop, you can get a simple copying machine. The probe will allow you to adjust the cutting depth according to a certain template. This rather simple modification will turn a simple circular saw into a real woodworking machine. With such a device, you can not only cut the board into the necessary blanks, but also make precise cuts, make various samples.
For any home craftsman, having your own stationary sawing machine saves time and saves your work.
You can buy a ready-made stationary circular. The cost of small machines starts from 9,000 rubles, more or less decent stationary saws are sold in the price range from 30 to 100 thousand.
Despite the seeming complexity of the design, any master with basic locksmith skills can make a homemade circular saw. Moreover, in the design process it is possible to add functions that are not provided by the manufacturer.
What is a circular saw for?
Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the main tasks of the sawing machine. If you just need to cut firewood for the winter, or do basic carpentry work like making a fence, a sturdy table with a slot for a saw blade is enough. These options are popular in rural areas.
Circular for working with logs
Of course, there can be no question of any safety and functionality when using such a device.
In some of these "models" there is a shaft for securing the knives of a planer or jointer. As a rule, a frame is cooked from a corner or channel, an electric motor from the decommissioned factory ventilation is fixed on it, and with the help of a pulley, the torque is transmitted to the disk. It makes no sense to describe in detail the manufacturing technology of such a machine.
It's another matter if you want to do carpentry work. In this case, you need a coordinate table with guides that are fixed at different angles.
Since such a stationary saw can handle small workpieces, the operator's safety must be taken care of. It is desirable to provide for the regulation of the rotation speed and the possibility of easy replacement of discs with different diameters.
Be sure to install a protective cover over the disc, and cover the rotating parts of the drive with covers. The starting device is equipped with an emergency switch, and the stop button is located in an accessible place and is made large.
You will not miss in an accident
How to make a circular with a balance between economy, functionality and safety
Consider the main components that make up a home circular saw. You can make them yourself, but with certain skills and tools.
The frame can be made from a metal corner (channel) purchased from scrap metal collectors. If you have the funds - contact the warehouse of rolled metal. It is permissible to make legs from old water pipes, connecting them with corners.
A good option for a homemade metal roll bed
IMPORTANT! The use of bolted connections is prohibited, as vibration will cause the fastener to loosen.
It is necessary to use electric welding. Be sure to reinforce the corner joints with a jib. The upper part of the bed (on which the table will rest) and the podium for the electric motor are made from a corner with a side of at least 50 mm.
If the machine is equipped with wheels for movement, they must be with steel rims and have locks. The higher the weight of the bed, the more stable the machine will be, and the safer the work will be.