We make a sectional metal fence with our own hands. We install the mesh on a welded metal fence. Sectional fences: types, installation rules (photo) Installing a fence from sections with your own hands

Sectional fences as a site fence are used very often. And basically, such fences are made from chain-link mesh. To make a sectional fence with your own hands, you will need a little more time, because, unlike the tension installation method, you will need a different set of tools to carry out such work. What is needed for this?

materials

For the construction of the fence will require the following materials:

Rabitz;
iron poles from a round or square profile;
corner for the manufacture of the frame;
self-tapping screws as fasteners;
crushed stone and mortar for concreting supports.

Tools

Of the tools you will need:

electric drill;
Bulgarian;

Sectional fence installation instructions

Before you start mounting a sectional fence, you need to correctly mark the site and outline the installation site of the support pillars. If in your case the installation of a fence is provided around the entire territory, then you can mark it with ordinary pegs, driving them into the ground and stretching twine or other rope between them.

Do not forget that dug-in poles should be located on your territory and therefore you need to mark out taking into account the reserve of the area. Simply put, the pillars will need to be dug in from the inside of the marked area.

The reliability and aesthetics of the entire fence will depend on evenly installed supports. Poles can be installed in two ways:

with the help of concreting;
with the help of fence crutches;

In the first case, the installation is carried out as follows.

To install poles of 1.2–1.3 meters, it will be enough to dig a hole with a depth of 45–50 cm. If you use a manual or automatic drill, then check the verticality of the excavated recess so that it does not turn out awry.

Before installing the post in the hole, lay half of the brick, and support the installed post with a wooden block. Use a spirit level to check that the installation is level. Pour crushed stone around the post and carefully tamp it down so that the post takes a stable position.

The pit does not need to be completely covered with rubble, leave 15 - 20 cm from the surface to fill it with mortar.

Then lay the mortar on top with a trowel in the rest of the pit and level it. Thus, you need to dig in all the supports, and if you do everything right, they will be as stable as possible.

If you use fence crutches, then you will not need to dig holes for their installation. They are driven into the ground with a sledgehammer to the required mark and are also leveled with a level. The poles are inserted into the crutches and secured with bolts provided in advance.

To protect the pillars from bad weather, small iron caps are welded on top of them so that rainwater does not get inside.

We make sections

While the concrete dries under the pillars, you can prepare the sections. Manufacturing takes place in several stages.

We take measurements

To do this, we measure the distance from one column to another and, retreating from each side by 15 cm, to the connections, we obtain the required length of the section. If you are installing a fence on a flat area, then the height must be measured once: it will be the same for all sections.

We prepare the material by size

We cut the corners to the required size and lay them on a flat surface. We align the corners with iron squares and grab them from all sides by welding. Then, after taking control measurements, we carry out the final bonding, namely, we weld the seams of the corners from all sides.

We fasten the chain-link mesh

Then we take a roll of chain-link mesh and unfold it for the entire length of the span. We align one edge, and cut off the excess part (top or bottom) with scissors for metal. When you have received the required size, you need to fix it in the section. This is also done by welding, boil each joint so that the mesh does not fall out of the frame.

If you have a technologically advanced welding machine at your disposal, with which you can weld metal of any thickness, then you will simplify your task. If you have an older model, then you can burn the mesh without welding it. In this case, reinforcement with a cross section of 0.6 or 0.8 is used for fastening. Pass it along the entire contour of the mesh and weld it to the frame.

How to install section holders

To fasten the finished sections to the supports, you need to weld the holders. To do this, you will need small sections of a profile pipe, 40x20 in size. At the beginning, they must be cut in such a way that, when fastened, the ends of the pipes protrude in different directions by 10-15 cm.

An example calculation is this. If a profiled pipe 50x50 is used as supports, then the pipe size 50 + 15 + 15 is taken for fastenings, for a total of 110 cm each segment. For one support you need two holders up and down. After the concrete has dried, they must be welded to the pipe. You need to weld it like this: mark 50 cm on the pipe, leaving two segments of 15 cm in different directions and weld this place to the support.

For the correct marking of the attachment point, you need to start from the corner of the site, and you need to mount the holders from this place. We retreat from the ground 5-7 cm, and, having leveled it, we weld it to the pole. Then we weld the upper holder in the same way, and proceed to marking on other pillars. To do this, we tie a rope to the welded pipe and stretch it to the adjacent support.

All manipulations must be done strictly according to the level so that subsequent fastenings are at the same level, the final result of the work and the uniformity of the installation of the sectional fence depend on this.

Section installation

It is possible to install sections correctly only with two assistants. Algorithm of actions for fastening sections to supports:

First, lay several bricks flush with them at the attachment point.
We install the section on them and begin to customize the places where you will weld.
Carefully set the same gaps on all sides (use a tape measure to measure) and tack welding in several places.
Then we once again carry out control measurements and after that we finally weld them to all four fasteners.

After you install all sections of the fence according to this principle, the welding points must be cleaned of scale and painted.

Stepped sectional fence

If your site has uneven terrain, the fence can be made stepped. If the side of the lower triangle under the slope does not exceed 15 cm, then these places are filled with a lower trim. With the formation of large voids, a brick or stone plinth is removed. To make the brickwork even, the plinths are laid out immediately after the installation of the supports.

If the slope of the fence runs across the line, then immediately before installation, you need to build a brick support so that it holds the ground, and only then fix the posts in it.

If you have any additions to this manual, then you can leave your comments for readers.

Sectional fence without problems

Sections of rods - a fence that is worthy of respect. Such a fence is appropriate in different areas, up to sensitive facilities. Sections are actively used in the suburban area, where they effectively protect the territory of a private house or cottage from ill-wishers. In the urban sector, this is an excellent solution for fencing adjoining areas, school territories, playgrounds, sports facilities, train stations, warehouses, etc.

What are sections?

Welded mesh fence section is a mesh fragment with high rigidity. Such a fence perfectly copes with loads of any nature. During the manufacturing process, sections acquire a set of technical characteristics that any other types of fencing can envy. Among the advantages of sections made of metal rods are the absence of rust, color coating, resistance to adverse environments and climatic influences. Sections are designed for fastening on supporting pillars concreted in the ground. Despite the simple technology, welding a fence made of rods is quite effective and reliable.

How are sections made?

Welded mesh fence sections are made from metal rods processed and joined together by laser welding. For the processing of rods, hot-dip galvanizing, nanoceramics and powder-polymer painting are used. Triple treatment is an effective way to protect metal from corrosion, damage, and the ability to obtain the desired color.

Sections are produced in two ways: according to standard sizes and according to individual customer requests. In the second case, the customer will receive a fence of the desired color and size. In addition, you can specify additional characteristics: the diameter of the rods, their location, the presence of stiffeners, etc.

How is the fence assembled?

It takes a little time and effort to assemble the fence. If there is a desire, then you can handle the installation yourself, especially when there are a couple of assistants. When installing support posts, it is important to set them at the correct distance from each other, which is necessary for fastening the sections. In the role of fasteners, staples and clamps are suitable. Clamps must be purchased taking into account the diameter of the support post, so they will not fit any support. Staples, on the contrary, are universal, and fit all poles, but at the same time damage the protective coating of the pole. If the choice is for labor, as well as installation, then it is advisable to seek help from specialists who will not only help with the choice, but also with delivery. As well as installing fencing.

Sections from rods - a universal fence.

A simple and inexpensive way to mark the boundaries of ownership of the territory is to install a chain-link fence. Of course, today there are many alternative materials that have a more presentable appearance, for example,. But they are more expensive and time-consuming to install, more suitable for the capital outdoor fencing of a country house.

And if you need to fence off a building site, a summer cottage, separate an economic zone from a residential one, or make an aviary for animals?

Is it reasonable to spend a lot of money and a lot of time, to attract specialists, if you can make a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands in one day, and the result will be achieved? The following describes the manufacturing technology, calculation and installation in the form of step-by-step instructions.

Benefits of a chain link fence

saving financial resources. The price of a chain-link fence is practically the lowest of all possible fence options. Only a wattle fence can compete in price, but otherwise it will lose;

light weight. There is no need for a massive frame or foundation pouring;

strength and resistance to environmental factors: moisture, temperature extremes, ultraviolet, fire, mechanical damage;

light transmission. A chain-link fence does not create obstacles for the penetration of sunlight, which means that there will be no shaded areas on the site and the plants will feel comfortable in any part of it;

undemanding maintenance and no need for repairs;

ability to withstand a significant load. For example, it is easier to break through a wooden fence than to break a metal net;

availability. You can buy a chain-link mesh at any hardware store or on the market;

a large assortment, allows you to choose the one that is best suited for specific needs;

high installation speed. You can install a chain-link fence with two people in one day.

Of course, the mesh fence is not without drawbacks, including: unattractive appearance, "transparency" of the fence and the need for painting. Some of the shortcomings are easily leveled if you know how to choose the right chain-link mesh.

Types of mesh chain-link for the fence - which is better

When choosing which chain-link mesh to use for fencing, you need to take into account its main parameters:

1. Production material:

low-carbon steel (mesh is more ductile);
stainless steel (rigid mesh).

2. Outer coating:

ungalvanized chain link. Wire thickness - 1.2-5 mm, mesh size 50-100 mm. Such a mesh is prone to rust, and needs to be painted;

galvanized chain link. Wire thickness - 1.6-5 mm, mesh size 50-100 mm. Does not need protection, has a long service life;

plasticized (metal with a polymer coating). Wire thickness - 2.5-2.8 mm, mesh size 25-50 mm. More presentable, with a high-quality coating has a long service life.

Advice. Ask the seller for a certificate that confirms the quality of the coating. A simple PVC coating without additives that guarantee its resistance to ultraviolet and frost will soon become unusable.

3. Netting cell dimensions

The smaller the cells, the smaller the living creatures will crawl through the grid. This is true when building a fence, for example, for chickens or ducklings. But, such a mesh will be heavier, it will take more metal to make it, which means it will be more expensive. For a fence, the best option is a grid with a cell of 50x50.

After the grid is selected, it's time to move on to the main work, namely, to create a sketch of the fence, calculate materials and install the fence (tension and sectional).

How to make a chain-link fence with your own hands

Stage 1. Chain link fence drawing

A drawing or sketch is a working graphic document that contains the following data:

the location of the fence installation, taking into account access roads, trees, houses, other buildings on the site, etc.;

relief features. If the site has a slope or elevation changes, the diagram will help determine which is more appropriate: level the soil or make a cascading fence;

fence length. Since the width is determined by the width of the grid, there is no need to consider the length;

place of installation of supporting pillars and props.

Types of chain-link fences by frame type

When designing a fence, a decision is also made as to which chain-link fence frame will be used. Due to the fact that there are three ways to attach the mesh, there are three types of frame.

tension fence- easy to mount. The price of a tension fence from a grid the chain-link - is minimum. In order to build it, you need to install supports and stretch the grid. The design flaw is that the mesh will sag over time;

stretch fence with broach. A broach in the form of a strong wire serves as a support supporting the mesh, preventing it from sagging;

sectional fence. Requires more expenses for the purchase of a corner for the frame and longer time for the manufacture of sections. Although you can buy ready-made sections on the market. Naturally, the price of a sectional fence made of chain-link mesh is the highest, but the design is more reliable and practical.

Note. With uneven terrain on the site, it is better to give preference to a fence from sections, this will allow you to put a fence from a chain-link mesh, taking into account elevation changes, without leveling the ground plane.

The correct drawing of a chain-link fence contains a description of the fence with key dimensions and main nodes, incl. arrangement of corners.

Stage 2. Material for building a fence: selection and calculation

Installing a chain-link fence will take only one or two days, if you prepare all the materials and tools necessary for the job in advance.

Construction Materials:

Rabitz. Its requirements are described above.
Tension wire (when installing a tension fence). The function is to support the mesh, provide additional attachment points and eliminate the possibility of sagging. Galvanized wire with a thickness of 2 mm is suitable for the fence. (from 130 rubles/m.p.).
As a stronger alternative to wire, reinforcement is used that is welded between posts or a thin pipe. These materials exclude mesh theft.
Support posts for a chain-link fence.
Profile corners (for the manufacture of a sectional fence). With the help of corners, a frame of individual sections is formed, which are installed on support pillars. The average price of a corner 40x40x3 is 97 rubles / m.p.
Thin wire or other fasteners for attaching the mesh.
Cement and sand (for concreting supporting pillars).
Protective compositions for processing wood or metal.

From the tool you will need: a tape measure, a rope for marking the site, a shovel or a drill.

What poles can be used for a chain-link fence

metal poles

A hollow profile of round or square section is used. The versatility of a metal pole is undeniable. The iron support does not need to be processed during installation (only priming and painting), any kind of fasteners are welded to the metal.
For a chain-link fence, a round post with a diameter of 60 mm is suitable. (average price for a metal thickness of 2 mm - 159 rubles / m.p.) or rectangular, with a section of 40x60 (price for a wall thickness of 2 mm - 163 rubles / m.p.).

wooden poles

Although this is the simplest solution, wooden poles have the disadvantage of being susceptible to weather and microbial activity. In addition, dense wood (oak, elm) is not cheap. You can use more popular species - pine, birch. With proper processing and constant care, they will last 20-25 years. However, in practice, wooden chain-link fence posts are used for temporary structures. For a fence, a pole with a size of 100x100 mm (70 rubles / m.p.) is suitable.

brick pillars

Strong and massive supports are too expensive for a mesh fence, therefore, they are not used in practice. In addition, under them it is necessary to fill the foundation.

The material was prepared for the site www.site

concrete pillars

Relatively inexpensive material. You can do it yourself or buy ready-made ones (approximate price for one support 80x80x2000 - 350 rubles / piece). It is relevant if the store is in the immediate vicinity of the installation site, otherwise the cost of transport will significantly increase the cost of a fence from a chain-link mesh. At the same time, fastening the mesh to a concrete pole has its own specifics.

Asbestos-cement pipes

They are characterized by relative cheapness (the price of a pipe is 100x3000 - 300 rubles), strength and resistance to decay. But stretching the mesh is inconvenient, requiring the use of clamps or clamps. In addition, the pipes are hollow, they just need to be closed with plugs, otherwise the frozen water will simply break the pipe from the inside.

Stage 3. Calculation of the fence from the chain-link mesh

Number of m.p. (linear meters) of the grid depends on the size of the plot. Usually the chain-link is sold in rolls of 10 m. The price of a non-galvanized mesh chain-link 50x50x2 mm - from 48 rubles / sq.m. The price of a polymer mesh 50x50x2.2 mm - from 221 rubles / sq.m.
The length of the wire for stretching is equal to two lengths of the fence (or three if the wire is installed in the middle). With a fence height of 1500 mm, 2-3 pieces are enough.
The number of posts depends on the perimeter of the site (total length of the fence) and is calculated based on the fact that the maximum distance between adjacent posts is 2,500 mm. This rule is the same for stretch fences and sectional fences.
The length of the profile corner is equal to the perimeter of the frame multiplied by the number of sections.
Wire for fastening or other fasteners depending on the method of fastening.

Stage 4. Installing a chain-link fence with your own hands

The sequence of work.

1. Soil surface preparation

The installation site of the fence does not need serious cleaning. It is enough to remove debris and eliminate interfering plants and shrubs. At the same time, plants that will grow near the grid (and not near the supporting post) can be left if their development does not lead to deformation of the grid.

2. Pouring the foundation for a chain-link fence

Do you need a foundation for a chain-link fence? There are fences installed on the foundation. The pouring of the concrete base can only be explained by the installation of a grid using heavy metal sections. Which in most cases is unjustified.

3. Installation of posts for a chain-link fence

Fence post preparation

Processing wooden poles- the timber should be treated with an antiseptic (a solution that prevents wood decay) according to the level of penetration into the soil. The SENEZH product line has proven itself well (price from 90 rubles/l).

Processing of metal poles- iron supports must be derusted and coated with a corrosion inhibitor (prevention of rust development). Conferum products are in demand, which supplies several types of primers.

How deep should chain-link fence posts be buried?

Despite the minimum net windage, the chain-link is heavy, with a length of 2.5 meters (between the supports) and a height of 1.5 m, the fence can tilt or fall. Therefore, support pillars are installed to a depth of up to 1 meter, under certain conditions (fence height, type of soil on the site), the minimum depth of the pit is 50-80 cm.

Ways to install fence posts

Installation on hard ground (clay)

Installation is possible in two ways:

Firstly, by driving or screwing the supports to the desired depth. This method has a significant drawback, which manifests itself in the fact that it is difficult to maintain the installation level when clogging and it is easy to deform the top of the clogged pipe. Therefore, it must be covered with plywood to avoid deformation.

Secondly, by drilling / digging a hole for it, followed by pouring concrete. In this case, the installation depth of the support is chosen taking into account the level of soil freezing. However, some masters argue that this is not necessary.

Installation on loose and heaving soils

The technology is more time-consuming, here the masters also distinguish two installation options:

First, install the support 20 cm below the freezing level of the soil. Then the heaving of the soil will not squeeze out the pipe.

Secondly, replace the soil around the support. To do this, you need to make a hole of a larger diameter (twice the diameter of the pipe) and replace the soil in this place with crushed stone, at a height of 40 cm to the soil surface, the column is concreted. This method creates drainage, which takes on the heaving of the soil and levels it. In this case, the column will definitely not lead.

Advice. Manual drilling, especially with a large number of holes for posts, is a very laborious task. It is better to find / rent / buy a motor drill, with which guide holes of 50-60 cm are made, the remaining 40-50 cm of the pipe (pillar) are clogged with a sledgehammer.

How to install chain link fence posts

Installing posts for a chain-link fence is no different from arranging other types of fences. Installation order:

corner posts are installed first. When tensioned, they are subjected to the greatest load, so it is advisable to reinforce them with spacers (oblique supports). The purpose of the struts is to prevent the tilt of the support. As an option, you can put more powerful pillars (thick-walled) in the corners;

poles are installed at the break of the fence (at the corners of the fence, at the corners);

a rope is stretched between the already installed pillars, along which, first of all, supports for gates and gates are mounted;

the entrance group is set up ( , ). Please note that the entrance group of the chain-link fence is always made in the form of a section, reinforced with additional jumpers;

after that, ordinary pillars are installed. It is advisable to make the distance between them the same. This rule is mandatory when installing a sectional fence.

Note. Hollow metal pipes are closed with plugs to prevent water from getting inside and rust.

4. Guide wire for stretching the chain-link mesh

The task of the wire (cable) is to ensure a strong tension of the mesh between the posts. The necessary tension is provided by such methods of fastening the chain-link:

tensioner;
lanyard;
hook with a long thread;
staples, clamps, spans and clamps only keep the wire from sagging on intermediate posts. They are not used as tensioners.

The order of stretching the chain-link: one end of the mesh is tied to the corner support post, and the other is stretched. If the length of the fence is too long, intermediate fasteners are installed. Their function is to support the wire.

Note. Some users advise passing the guide wire through the grid cells. But this option is only suitable when installing a small fence, because stretching the wire along the entire length, and then installing the mesh on supports is a difficult and pointless task.

5. Fastening the chain-link mesh to the posts

install on a stretched tension wire;
fasten to the armature;
install in a section and secure in separate sections.

How to stretch the mesh between the pillars of the supports when building a tension fence

The chain-link mesh roll is installed vertically near the corner post (attached to metal posts). In this case, the folded edges of the mesh should be oriented upwards. This reduces the risk of injury from the sharp ends of the wire.

Advice. If a non-galvanized chain-link mesh is installed, then the craftsmen recommend raising it above the ground by 100-150 mm.

The grid is fixed in several places on the support. Then, gradually unwinding, the mesh is pulled and at the same time attached to the upper horizontal jumper (wire or reinforcement).

When the first roll is over, the mesh is pulled over the bottom jumper. In this case, it is important to unravel all the tangled spirals of the grid.

After that, the second roll is screwed to the first roll (together), and the second roll is unwound with tension.

Note. If the work is carried out with an assistant, then the connection (bundle of rolls) can be performed on a canopy. If on your own, then you need to connect the pieces when the mesh is not completely stretched, and its edge can be stretched along the length on the ground. Sometimes tying is done by using a wooden bridge to which the edges of both rolls are attached.

After installing the chain-link mesh along the entire length of the fence, the mesh is fixed on the middle jumper.

When pulling the wire, special attention should be paid to the corners. Here you need to be extremely careful to avoid skewing the mesh web.

How to stretch the mesh between the pillars of the supports when building a sectional fence

First, let's look at how to make sections for a fence from a chain-link mesh

from a metal corner you need to make a frame. Frame parameters: length is equal to the length of the support pipe minus 100-150 mm; the width is equal to the distance between adjacent supports;

the corner is dissolved into blanks with the help of a grinder;

blanks are welded into a frame;

Next, we work with the grid. The required size is unwound from the chain-link roll and separated by twisting the wire;

a reinforcing bar is inserted into all four sides of the grid. The rod allows you to stretch the mesh to the edge of the corner;

the rod is welded to the edges of the frame inside the corner. Thus, the chain-link is fastened to the corner.

There is another option, which involves welding on the inside of the corner of metal pins (hooks) 3 mm thick. Then the pins are bent inward with pliers, and a mesh is pulled over them. After the entire mesh is stretched, you need to weld the edges of the hooks to make a loop. This eliminates the possibility of the grid slipping.

After the frame is ready, we proceed to its installation. To fasten a separate section to a profile pipe, you need to weld a metal plate onto the support and weld the section to it.

It should be noted that it is very difficult for a beginner without experience to make sections for a fence from a chain-link mesh. The difficulties are related to the fact that:

it is problematic to make sections of the same size;

it is difficult to install a mesh segment tightly, without sagging;

the need to perform welding work;

the complexity of the installation of fence sections.

Decorative ornament of a chain-link fence

The mesh fence does not have a bright design and attractiveness, but if desired, it will result in a nice and durable fence for the site.

Mesh Fence Decor Ideas

openwork weaving. It is carried out with a thin wire on a grid with large cells. A simple pattern can be done with your own hands;

decorative gardening. Planting weaving or climbing plants along a mesh fence will create a hedge around the site. Alternatively, you can attach hanging flower pots, as in the photo on the right;

in order not to wait until the greenery grows and braids the fence, the grid can be decorated with decorative wire flowers;

creative design. With a little imagination, you can create original and fun decorations for a chain-link fence.

Do-it-yourself chain-link fence - video

The cost of a chain-link fence

The total costs for the construction of a chain-link fence are determined taking into account the materials used and their quantity. For example, the cost of the material was indicated as they were discussed. The cost per meter is easy to calculate, knowing the consumption of each material and the length of the fence.

The price of a chain-link fence for work with installation for 1 r.m. shown in the table

Thus, a chain-link fence is a cost-effective and prefabricated type of fence that you can do yourself.

The fence performs not only the function of protecting property from the penetration of outsiders, but also an aesthetic, decorative function, being a decoration of the land. While earlier stones, bricks, wood were used for fencing, modern welded metal meshes allow you to quickly recreate a fence of the required height, strength and with an individual design.

Advantages of welded mesh fences

Sectional metal fences made of welded mesh are lightweight, they are durable and resistant to aggressive external influences, the installation of such fences is not laborious, it is done by hand in a short time, besides, the mesh does not create shadows and is optimal in pricing policy. When defects appear, it is easy to replace damaged areas.

Types of metal welded mesh for the fence

Metal meshes are made by welding wire of various thicknesses at the points of contact (spot welding). At the same time, cells can be of very different sizes and shapes - from standard square and rectangular to unusual polygonal (rhombus, trapezoid and others). A layer of polymer or other coating is applied to the surface of the grid to protect it from corrosion. The result is a canvas, which is used for fences.

Types of metal mesh for the fence, depending on the type of coverage:

Welded mesh with a polymer (polyvinyl chloride) coating, usually such a mesh has a green or other color. The polymer is applied to the surface of the wire by immersing it in a solution or applying powder dyes in special cabinets.
Grid welded galvanized and non-galvanized. The manufacturing process may differ in the order of steps. Either the already galvanized wire is welded, or, on the contrary, a mesh is produced, which is then galvanized or sent for sale uncoated.
Grid welded with galvanization and polymer coating. This mesh is the most durable, but at the same time very expensive. For a conventional fence, the use of such a grid is impractical.

The mesh is produced and delivered to consumers in the form of panels and rolls. Rolls are produced weighing from 50 to 500 kilograms, up to two meters high. The length of the mesh in a roll is from 15 to 33 meters.

Installation of a sectional metal fence

Soil preparation

The first stage is to study the territory, as well as measuring the required length of the future fence.
In places where the fence will pass, you should level the soil, remove shrubs and trees, remove large stones and foreign objects.

Installation of supporting pillars without the use of concrete.

Racks before installing them in the ground (concrete) must be protected from corrosion. To do this, we apply a layer of paint, bitumen on the lower part of the columns, or wrap them with a piece of roofing material.

The convenience of installing support posts without the use of concrete lies in the fact that without the use of concrete, you can install a fence at any time of the year, even in winter. In addition, the installed fence is easy to dismantle if necessary. The method is optimal for installing a fence on heaving soil.

We will literally hammer the fence into the ground. Therefore, it will be necessary to prepare small diameter depressions in the soil for supporting pillars. All wells must be of the same depth and located on the same line, so that the fence eventually comes out perfectly even. The distance between wells takes from 250 to 300 cm.
We insert metal racks into the prepared recesses and hammer them into the ground. The depth of the wells is taken equal to 1/4 of the length of the support column. However, if the depth of soil freezing is too high, then the depth of the pit should be increased.

Pay attention to the verticality of the installed pillars and their height, which should be equal along the entire perimeter of the fence. Use a tape measure, building level and threads stretched over pegs for easy alignment of the supports.

In the space between the soil and the walls of the pillars, we fill it with a butch of fine fraction (a mixture of crushed stone or gravel with sand) and carefully tamp.

Careful tamping ensures the immobility of the pillars and the strength of the installation of the fence.

Similarly to the first method, it is necessary to mark out a place for wells on the site, dig them out, checking the distance between them and the depth.
We insert racks into the dug wells and fill them with concrete mortar.
So that the pillar does not deviate, for the period of hardening of the concrete solution (two days), it should be strengthened with spacers.

Particular attention should be paid to the pillars located in the corners of the site and those on which the gate (gate) will be fixed. Such racks require particularly strong fastening, as they bear additional loads.

The foundation for the fence tape monolithic

Such a foundation is able to withstand significant loads and provide proper reliability and stability to the future fence.
Before starting work, you should make markings and dig a trench. In this trench, we additionally dig holes for the pillars. We install a wooden formwork in a trench. We lay reinforcement for strength. We install the racks and fill the entire trench with concrete mix. We strengthen the pillars with spacers for the period of solidification of the solution.

Fastening the metal mesh to the supporting poles
In order to fasten a sectional metal fence to the supporting poles, you will need: brackets with bolts and nuts to ensure that the mesh is pressed against the pole (or clamps instead of brackets); connecting clips for joining canvases, a screwdriver, corners, a welding machine.

We prepare sections of a fence for installation. We lay them out next to the racks.

We weld metal corners on the racks. They will serve as a fastener for the fence sections.
In the corners of each section, we drill holes through which we fasten the sections with screws.

Another method allows you to do without connecting brackets, but it will be difficult to dismantle the fence if necessary. To do this, we connect the fence sections with metal corners on the racks and weld them.

If instead of sections a canvas is used, the edges of the two rolls should be attached to each other, one extreme wire should be removed and the edges of the canvases should be connected with it, forming a single monolithic one. After that, we unfold the grid and fix it on the racks with brackets or clamps.