We make a machine with our own hands. Self-made machines with your own hands: accessories. The easiest mousetrap in the world

Any workshop owner, even if it does not have a separate room and is simply organized in the garage, strives to equip it with everything necessary for comfortable, productive and, most importantly, high-quality work. But nowadays you can't "go far" on a hand instrument. A great variety of power tools, various multifunctional or narrow-profile machines, and auxiliary equipment comes to the rescue. There are no problems with the offer - the main difficulty is that high-quality products cost a lot of money, and not everyone can afford it.

But folk craftsmen find a way out by making such machines and devices on their own, some of which may well compete with factory models. Moreover, to create such equipment, quite affordable materials are used, often just gathering dust in the barn. And as drives are widely used travel power tools, usually found in any workshop.

In this publication, only a few homemade machines and accessories for the home workshop will be considered. It should be correctly understood that it is simply impossible to cover all the available variety of such equipment within the framework of one article. Here it is just right to assign such a topic to a separate site altogether. So basically a general overview will be given. But we will consider the production of two models, which are very important, probably for any workshop - a pendulum saw and a sharpening machine for a cutting tool, step by step, with all the nuances, from the first drafts to testing.

The basis of the basics is a convenient workbench and organized storage of tools and accessories

The comfort of working in a workshop depends on many important conditions. If we take the issues of heating, ventilation and lighting "outside the brackets" (these are topics for separate consideration), then the rational, convenient organization of the main workplace always comes to the fore.

We are talking about a workbench and a well-thought-out system for storing tools, accessories, consumables and other trifles necessary for work.

The workbench is selected or made independently, depending on the main direction of work in the workshop.

Joiner's workbench "classic"

If the owner is more focused on wood processing, then he will need a joiner's workbench. There is a long-standing and well-proven general concept of such a workplace. Probably, even when making a workbench yourself, it makes sense to stick to it.

The workbench is based on powerful wooden legs (pos. 1), which at the bottom, at the base, are usually connected in pairs by support-jumpers (pos. 2). Above is a cover - a workbench (pos. 3). As a rule, a recessed section is provided - the so-called tray (pos. 4), so that during work the necessary tools or accessories at hand do not fall on the floor.

There is usually a side or rear clamp on the right side (key 5). In fact, this is a screw vise, in which a wedge extending upward is provided (pos. 6). Along the line of this wedge, along the bench board, there is a row of slots (pos. 7) for similar wedges (they can be hidden in these slots or stored separately and inserted as needed). This allows you to rigidly fix a wooden workpiece for processing between the table wedges and the side vise.

A front clamp (key 8) is used to hold a long piece that cannot be clamped between the outer wedges. This is also a screw vise that is able to clamp the workpiece between the front end of the workbench and a movable wooden jaw. And in order for the long part to have the necessary support points from below, fingers or retractable supports hidden there in the grooves are extended from the end of the workbench (pos. 9).

The lower area of the workbench is called the pedestal (pos. 10). As a rule, there are powerful crossbeams (projections) connecting the legs in pairs in the longitudinal direction. These rungs often provide shelves for storing tools or workpieces, or even, as shown in the illustrated diagram, a closed cabinet.

Below is a drawing of the workbench. Anyone who knows how to read diagrams and owns the skills of carpentry work will be able to make such a model on their own.

To begin with, a general wiring diagram of a joiner's workbench with dimensions.

Now - a series of drawings for individual parts and structural units.

For the manufacture of parts for the base (base), as a rule, high-quality coniferous wood with a residual moisture content of no more than 12% is used.

The bench board (cover) is mainly made of hardwood - it can be beech or oak, ash or maple. It is extremely difficult to make such a massive overall panel on your own, therefore, a ready-made glued board is often ordered or purchased in a carpentry workshop. It is unlikely that this will seem too expensive a solution, given both the cost of the material and the laboriousness of the process. So it is more profitable to purchase a finished product, and then modify it for a workbench.

By the way, when performing various processing operations, one way or another, the surface of the desktop will be damaged. To maximize the life of the workbench, the lid is often closed with a plywood or fiberboard sheet (naturally, according to the size of the table and with all the necessary grooves and slots). As such a coating wears out, it can be replaced with a new one - it is not so difficult and inexpensive.

The installation of the front and rear (side) clamps is usually particularly difficult. To get really workable and convenient devices, it is better to purchase the screw mechanism of the vice in a finished, assembled form. There are many models on sale that are suitable for this purpose.

To assemble these clamping units, refer to the following drawing:

The vise jaws must be made exclusively of hardwood, the dimensions and hole locations are shown in the drawing. (It should be correctly understood that the location and diameter of the holes must correspond to the purchased screw mechanism).

And finally, the last diagram shows how to attach the rear fixed jaws of both vices to the workbench cover.

Of course, an example is shown here, moreover, it can suit many in its "pure form", that is, without changes. But if other dimensions are required (based, for example, from the available space), then you can draw up your own drawing by taking the shown diagrams as an example of the assembly of certain units. The principle is still the same. If necessary, no one bothers to make their own improvements, which, of course, should not negatively affect the strength of the structure.

Video: locksmith's workbench with its bunches

If the master plans to mainly engage in plumbing operations, then he will need a completely different workbench, designed specifically for such purposes. Here, in contrast to the carpentry "classics" - an innumerable number of possible options. as a rule, steel profiles (angles, channels, profile pipes) and sheets are used for manufacturing. One of the quite decent options is shown in the video below:

Optimized arrangement and storage of tools and accessories is always an important part of working comfort in the workshop. But we will not dwell on this, since a separate article is devoted to such a topic on the pages of our portal.

How to make the workshop as comfortable as possible for work?

It is convenient when you know where what is and when the necessary tool is always at hand. So it is worth paying close attention to the system of cabinets, shelving, pedestals, reasonably organized storage places for consumables. This is especially important in those cases when the size of the room does not allow to "roam". A special publication is reserved for questions on our portal.

Homemade machines and equipment

As already mentioned, the variety of home-made machines is extremely large, and it is simply impossible to tell about all of them. Therefore, in this section of the article, the reader will be offered several video reviews. And, in addition, in detail, the production of two models of machine tools will be considered step by step.

Video - miniature wood lathe based on electric drill

On the farm, it often becomes necessary to grind this or that round wooden part. If you do not do this professionally, then purchasing a real lathe is completely unprofitable. And it will take up a lot of space. But having a miniature machine at your disposal, which can be stored in a closet and assembled as needed, never hurts. Moreover, its manufacture is not so difficult.

You can verify this by watching the proposed video. Despite the fact that the author speaks English, all his actions are shown in detail and quite understandable. And such a machine, guided by this video-tip, can be done by everyone.

Video - circular saw based on a manual vertical electric saw

If it becomes necessary to harvest a considerable number of wooden parts of the same size, then nothing better than a stationary circular saw can be thought of. And it is quite possible to make such a machine, and, again, in a collapsible version, which, as unnecessary, does not take up almost any space at all.

You just need a sheet of plywood, a few bars and screws. And the main element of the design is the vertical hand saw

In the shown scene, the craftsman removes part of the safety guard of the manual circular. This is not always necessary. It is quite possible that the free exit of the saw will already be enough if it is supposed to cut not too thick workpieces.

Pendulum saw from "grinder" - independent production step by step

When cutting blanks or wood or metal, including shaped or round pipes, high precision is often required. Moreover, the accuracy is not only in linear dimensions, but also in the value of the cut angle. A typical example is when it is necessary to accurately cut workpieces for any frame in which the joining of parts is either strictly perpendicular or at an angle of 45 degrees.

A pendulum saw allows you to perform this operation. The diagram above in a simplified form shows the principle of its structure and operation.

In any case, there is a reliable base (bed, frame), which ensures the stability of the machine (pos. 1). In many models, a work table with a system of guides, stops and clamps is organized on top of the bed, allowing you to accurately position the workpiece to be processed. There must be a slot (pos. 2), exactly into which the revolving circle or saw is lowered.

A support (pos. 3) of the swinging part of the machine is rigidly attached to the bed. It is equipped with a bearing block and an axle (pos. 4), relative to which the swinging rocker platform (pos. 5) rotates. On this platform there is an electric drive (pos. 6) that transmits rotation directly or through a transmission system (pos. 7) to the cutting tool - a cut-off wheel or circular saw (pos. 8). A lever (pos. 9) or a handle is provided, with the help of which the master can smoothly lower the cutting disc down onto the workpiece fixed on the work table above the slot.

But the capabilities of this tool will become immeasurably wider if a special milling table is made for it. One of the options for such a homemade machine is in the proposed video.

Homemade machine for sharpening cutting tools - step by step

And in the workshop, and in the kitchen, and just around the house, a lot of cutting tools are used that need regular sharpening. Travel disc knife sharpeners give a very short-term effect of sharpness of the cutting edge, since they remove metal along the edge of the blade, and according to all canons it is required - perpendicular to it. When sharpening by hand using bars or on a rotating sharpener, it is very difficult to accurately maintain the optimal angle, especially so that it is equal along the entire length of the blade. By the way, this total sharpening angle is different for different types of cutting tools - there are many separate publications on this topic on the Internet.

This means that in order to sharpen, for example, a knife qualitatively, a device is required that would make it possible to apply force with the translational direction of the flat abrasive perpendicular to the cutting edge sequentially along its entire length with a single, pre-inserted angle of inclination. And to provide visual control over the progress of the formation and sharpening of this cutting edge.

A lot of such devices are offered for sale. But if there is a desire, then a similar machine can be made independently, using materials for this, which may be found in a workshop or garage. And if you buy what you need, it will come out quite inexpensively. An example is shown step by step in the table below.

Illustration	Brief description of the performed operation
	The entire structure of the machine, all its parts and assemblies will be somehow fixed on the base - the bed (frame). A profile pipe with a square section of 20 × 20 mm is well suited for its manufacture ...
	… With a wall thickness of 2 mm. As will be understood later, there are no strict proportions of sizes - they proceed from considerations of common sense, the strength of the structure being created, the presence of certain materials.
	From a profile pipe, a grinder is used to cut blanks for the frame: two pieces 250 mm long, and two more - 130 mm.
	In this example, the craftsman will fit the mating sides of the frame at an angle of 45 degrees. This requires an accurate cut, so it is best to do it with a cut-off machine. If it is not there, nothing prevents you from making the frame simpler, that is, placing its sides end-to-end. Then, instead of 130 mm, small parts will be only 90 mm, since they will stand between large ones. This will not affect the functionality of the sharpening machine in any way - the only thing is that there will be some loss of aesthetics.
	This is the frame we got after preparing the parts.
	The cut edges can be adjusted slightly, deburred, and a small bevel under the weld seam can be deburred.
	Then the frame is assembled on one side and welded with a continuous seam along short vertical joints. The seams are cleaned of slag and sanded with a grinder.
	Welded frame corner after stripping. You can, of course, immediately boil on both sides, but the master just decided to supplement the frame with height-adjustable legs-stands. The operation is optional - the machine can be installed simply with a frame on a flat surface. But with stands, of course, it's more interesting.
	This adjustable leg with a nut is easy to find in any furniture hardware store. The nuts will just be welded in the corners of the frame.
	Holes are drilled in the corners into which the nuts will be planted before scalding them.
	The nuts are inserted into the holes - this operation is carried out on all four corners of the bed.
	Now, on one side of the bed (on its small side), it is required to weld the nuts into which the vertical rack of the machine will be screwed. To do this, at an equal distance from the corners, initially thin (3 ÷ 4 mm) ...
	- and then - the top wall of the bed is drilled with a 10 mm drill.
	Here, stability, stability of the assembly is important, that is, with several threads of the thread - not to get rid of. Therefore, elongated M8 nuts will be welded into the holes made. It is advisable to pre-grind their lower edge under the cylinder, so that it fits snugly into the drilled holes.
	In fact, only one such slot is required to mount the machine. But it is better to provide for two symmetrical ones - who knows, perhaps in some cases it will be more convenient for the user to rearrange the rack to a different position. It will take no more than a couple of minutes.
	After that, all the nuts are scalded. When tacking, it is necessary to ensure that the nuts do not move and stand level. To do this, they can be held by a temporarily screwed in a long hairpin, controlling its position perpendicular to the plane of the bed. In addition, this measure reliably protects the nut thread from splashing metal.
	Here's what happened: on the upper side of the frame - two welded-in nuts for the struts ...
	… From the bottom - four welded-in nuts at the corners for screwing in the adjustable feet. By the way, if the master has threaded rivets of the required diameter (M6 for the supports, and M8 for the rack), then you can do with them, that is, get away from the operation of welding the nuts.
	The next step is to make a shelf on which the cutting tools will be fixed by the pressure plate. It can be made from a thick steel plate. But the master decided to give it a slight reverse slope, so he cuts it out of the corner with a shelf of 63 mm. The length of the part is along the width of the bed, that is, 130 mm.
	First, the desired piece of the corner is cut off. Then it is clamped in a vice to evenly cut off one shelf with a grinder.
	This is how this platform will be welded to the bed.
	After welding, the seam is thoroughly cleaned.
	Knives and other cutting tools will be held in place by a pressure plate. And for this you need to prepare two holes with M8 thread. It is advisable to arrange them wider so that you can, for example, clamp between them knives from a planer and other cutting parts of a similar plan. First, holes are drilled with a small diameter drill - 3 or 4 mm.
	Then - with a drill for M8 thread, that is, with a diameter of 6.7 mm.
	After that, a thread is cut with a tap.
	The next step is making a pressure plate. For her, it is better to take a thick, 3-4 mm, stainless steel. It is less prone to deformation than conventional carbon steel. The size of the plate must correspond to the dimensions of the support platform.
	The edge, which will face the cutting edge of the tool, is ground to a bevel to avoid rubbing it with an abrasive during sharpening. Further, two holes are drilled on the plate for M8 screws - strictly aligned along the axes with the threaded holes in the support platform. These screw holes can be retrofitted.
	The bed is completely ready, and after cleaning and degreasing it can be coated with paint from an aerosol can. While the paint will dry, you can do other components and parts of the machine.
	A steel rod with a diameter of 8 mm will be used for the rack and working rod of the machine. To begin with, you need to thoroughly clean it - polish it with sandpaper. The master suggested this option - with clamping the rod into the drill chuck and holding the paper in his hand. Let's be honest - not a completely safe way.
	The rod after polishing. It is divided into two sections - one with a length of 450 ÷ 500 mm, the other 250 ÷ 300 mm.
	An M8 thread is cut from one end of each of the bars. On a short bar, a threaded section with a length of approximately 20 mm is for screwing into the welded-in nut of the bed.
	On a long bar - thread 40 ÷ 50 mm long. It is necessary to screw the handle.
	The next step is to make retainers that will hold the abrasive block on the rod. They are made from elongated M10 nuts. First, you need to mark the center of the through hole with a core, with a distance of 12 mm from the edge.
	Then, very carefully, strictly perpendicular to the axis of the nut, a through hole with a diameter of 8 mm is drilled.
	Cut off a quarter from the other end of the nut. This is done with a hacksaw for metal in two steps. First, a transverse incision is made to the center ...
	... and then longitudinal. Two such nuts must be prepared.
	Short M10 locking bolts are screwed into the nuts - and the clamps are ready. This is how they will look.
	After that, the clips are put on the bar. Between them, a sharpening block is placed in the cut-out quarters, and this entire assembly is fixed with clamping bolts. That's it, the rod is assembled, you can go to the next machine node.
	There should be a knot on the rack that provides the top point of support for the boom. In this case, the forward and backward movement of the bar should be ensured, and the degree of freedom to the left and to the right. In short, this is a kind of hinge, the height of which on the rack will just set the angle of sharpening of the cutting edge. This unit will be manufactured again on the basis of an elongated M10 nut. To begin with, a through hole with a diameter of 8 mm is drilled in it - just like on the nuts, which went to the clips.
	Then a rather complicated operation follows. It is necessary to first drill a hole with a diameter of 6.7 mm through the head of the M10 bolt, and then cut the M8 thread in it. The bolt itself will be screwed into the nut, and the ring from the anchor will be screwed into the hole. This ring will just play the role of a hinge.
	This is how this assembly looks like. From the side of the through hole, an M10 bolt is screwed into the nut, with which the assembly will be fixed on the vertical post.
	I must say that such a hinge in the "light version" is not the most successful, and it is justified only by the availability of parts. But the working rod has a fairly solid backlash, which can affect the accuracy of maintaining a single sharpening angle along the entire cutting edge of the knife. A more perfect solution could be the use of a ready-made fisheye hinge - such details are presented in a large assortment in online stores, and their cost is not so high. It is quite possible, probably, to do without the complicated operation of drilling a hole in the head of the bolt, followed by threading - if you are lucky enough to purchase a hinge with a suitable threaded part. Then, for the connection, it will be possible to do with a short hairpin. But for now, we are considering the way the master suggested.
	All parts are ready - you can proceed to the assembly of the machine.
	From the bottom of the bed, support legs are screwed. Their height is immediately adjusted so that the machine is stable - at all four points.
	The vertical stand is screwed in.
	A hinge assembly is put on the rack and fixed at a certain height with a clamping bolt.
	A pressure plate is placed on the support platform. Two screws are attached, which will fix the cutting tool in this clamp.
	It remains to thread the free end of the working rod into the hinge ring - and we can assume that the machine is ready.
	The master decided to immediately try it in work. To begin with, sharpen this knife with a completely "killed" cutting edge.
	The knife is placed between the base plate and the pressure plate. The cutting edge is roughly parallel to the short side of the bed. Fixation is carried out by tightening two screws.
	The working rod is inserted into the hinge. The hinge itself is adjusted in height to ensure the required sharpening angle. The sharpening process begins - first with the first, large bar. In the course of work, you can observe how a uniform cutting edge is formed along the entire length of the blade.
	Then the block can be changed to another, with a fine abrasive, to bring the sharpening to the maximum sharpness of the cutting edge.
	The result of the work - at first visually ...
	... and now - with a demonstration of the degree of sharpening of the cutting edge. A loose sheet of paper is easy to cut into strips.
	By changing the height of the hinge node, you can sharpen the plane of the plane in the same way ...
	... or even an ax blade. The machine itself, when temporarily unnecessary, is easy to disassemble by removing the bar and unscrewing the stand. In this form, it will take up very little space in the closet or on the shelf.

It makes sense to add a few more touches.

Many factory-made models are equipped with a scale, which sets the required angle of sharpening of the cutting edge. It is not difficult to come up with a similar device yourself, for example, such as shown in the illustration. A plate perpendicular to the plane of the support platform, and a removable ruler with a protractor screwed to it.

After clamping the knife in the clamp, it is enough to apply a ruler to the cutting edge and to the hinge point, align the central risk of the protractor with the plate, and take the angle readings using the same plate, counting it from 90 degrees.

Important - the full sharpening angle is made up of the corners on both sides of the blade. That is, if an angle of 30°, then sharpening on one side should be carried out at an angle of 15°.

They also act differently - instead of a protractor, you can fix a sector on which signed marks are made in advance, for example, "kitchen knife", "table knife", "chisel", "", etc. That is, it will be enough to choose the height of the hinge so that the bar coincides with the marked mark.

Another option is the markings on the upright post. True, in this case, uniformity is required in the placement of the knives in the clamp - so that the cutting edge always protrudes at the same distance from the edge. Not quite convenient.

And the easiest option is to make several templates from thick cardboard or thin plywood, signing them for which cutting tool this corner is intended.

In a word, having shown ingenuity, it is not difficult to significantly simplify bringing the machine to the desired working position.

You can also make a remark on the fastening of the bars. If it is supposed to change them in the course of sharpening, then they must necessarily have the same thickness, otherwise the angle will change. Many masters advise other approaches. Instead of bars, they have prepared several steel plates of the same size. Abrasive paper is glued to the plates. The two sides are already two different levels of grain. That is, you can prepare a set for all stages of sharpening: from rough shaping of the cutting edge to its polishing.

Another interesting idea in this regard is not a plate, but a segment of a shaped square pipe 20 × 20 mm. The four sides are four different abrasives. In the course of work - just turn it over with the right side ...

Another caveat: it will not hurt to ensure yourself and safety at work. It will be very unpleasant if, when moving forward, the hand breaks off - and exactly with your fingers along the cutting edge. So some kind of protective guard will not hurt here, which you can think of to your taste.

A self-made tool sharpening machine will surely be very useful in any household.

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We can say that in this article we only slightly "dug" the topic of home-made machines and devices. We will be glad if readers send their wishes: whichever of the tools they would like to see with details - we will try to satisfy their requests. And even better - if one of the amateur craftsmen will share their secrets on the pages of our portal. Published reviews from visitors are paid without fail.

Each master strives to equip his sphere as much as possible, to saturate the working space with machine tools and fixtures. Home-made machines and accessories for a home workshop are of great benefit for running a private household.

Among the homemade household crafts and equipment are:

joinery;
Workbench;
stool;
shelves;
racks.

Workbench

Workbench dimensions

The height of the countertop surface should be such that the worker can stand up to operate tools and equipment. The owner of the workshop determines the height of the workbench himself - according to his height. The height of the worktable ranges from 75 cm to 80 cm.

The size of the countertop is determined by the area of the utility room. The table should not obstruct free passage around it.

Workbench material

Wood
A wooden table is often used. The workbench is made of timber and boards. The legs of the table are fastened with diagonal crossbars for reliability.

The table top is made in the form of a shield from knocked down boards with pieces of timber. The shield is supported on the table legs and fastened with nails or screws. Connection details are made of steel angle.

The options for assembling a wooden workbench are different, but in one thing they are the same - the design of the table must be stable and withstand static and dynamic loads.

If the surface of the workbench will be exposed to accidental effects of cutting and sharp tools, then the tabletop is upholstered with tin or a metal sheet is placed on top.

Metal
The most reliable design of the working table is a workbench welded from a metal profile. Manufacturing a welded product requires a welding machine and experience with it.

The base frame and table legs are welded from a steel corner and a strip. For auxiliary parts, reinforcement segments are used.

The table top is made of a metal sheet, 8 - 12 mm thick. A thick sheet will significantly increase the weight of the workbench, making it difficult to move.

Stool

It is quite simple to make a stool with your own hands:

4 supports are made of 40 x 40 mm timber, 50 cm long.
Legs in the middle of the length are fastened with crossbars.
In the supports, grooves are made with a chisel.
At the ends of the transverse strips, projections are cut out with a chisel to fit the grooves.
The protrusions are lubricated with wood glue and inserted into the grooves.
While the glue dries, the supports are tightened with a belt.
The seat is cut with a circular saw from a wide board with a thickness of 30 mm.
A seat measuring 300 x 300 mm is nailed or screwed to the legs of the stool.

Shelves

Shelves are made of board, chipboard or MDF. They are open or with side walls. For fasteners, hinged furniture hinges are used.

Holes are drilled in the wall into which dowels are driven. The screws are not completely screwed into the dowels so that the shelf hinges can be put on them.

The hinges are screwed to the back of the shelf. The shelves are hung on the wall by putting hinges on the screw heads.

Racks

Racks are a whole range of shelves of different sizes. It is good to make them from chipboard. The lattice structure is supported on a pedestal or simply placed on the floor. For the stability of the rack, the corners are screwed to the sides of the furniture. The free shelves of the corners with holes are nailed to the wall with dowels.

Vertical tool holders

Every craftsman strives to organize his workplace so that the tools are at arm's length. This is facilitated by the vertical holders.

Wrench holder

A wooden plank is attached to the wall above the workbench. The rail is screwed into the dowels installed in advance.
Small nails are driven into the bar at intervals equal to the width of the wrench handles.
The keys are hung on a rail.
The nail heads hold the keys horizontally and vertically.

Screwdriver holder

In a piece of timber 40 x 40 mm, holes are drilled corresponding to the diameters of the screwdrivers, at a distance of 30 - 40 mm from each other.
A piece of timber is nailed to the wall with dowels so that the holes are vertical.
Screwdrivers are inserted into the resulting sockets. Now you can quickly get the right tool without leaving your workplace.

Chisel belt

The plank is attached to the wall with dowels.
The belt or belt is nailed to the bar with nails so that a kind of through pockets are obtained.
Chisels are lowered into the pockets, through which only steel blades pass. The handles are held in place by a strap.

The device can hold hammers, pliers, pliers and other tools.

Homemade soldering iron stand

Working with a soldering iron, a situation arises when you need to put aside the tool. Putting a soldering iron with a hot tip on a tabletop or on any object is always risky. A homemade stand will solve this problem.

An example of making a stand for a soldering iron

The holder is made of wire in the form of a spiral. To do this, unbend a wire hanger.
The wire is wound on a cylindrical object with a diameter of 1.5 - 2 cm. The handle of a chisel or other tool will do.
On one side, the springs leave a free end of the wire.
The end is bent with round-nose pliers into a loop.
For the base of the stand, take a board 200 x 100 x 20 mm.
A ø 4 mm through hole is drilled into the base.
On the back of the board, the hole is drilled with a large drill - under the screw head.
The screw is threaded from bottom to top.
A spring loop is put on the screw and the nut is tightened.
In the board, circles are cut out with a crown to the size of a cup for candles or similar products.
A chisel is used to sample wood in 3 grooves.
Cups are inserted into the openings, which are filled with solder, tin and a napkin for cleaning the tip.
The soldering iron is inserted into the spring.
A small hole is made in the board for attaching a flexible steel cord from the lamp.
At the end of the cord, a clamp is fixed, with which various parts for soldering are fixed.

The design may have a different look - it all depends on the imagination and ingenuity of the author.

The easiest mousetrap in the world

This name can be attributed to many homemade mousetraps invented by craftsmen. They are united by one thing - this is the humane treatment of animals that have fallen into a trap. The device does not kill the animal, but isolates it. Here are some examples of how to make a simple mousetrap:

Plastic funnel

Cut a plastic 3 liter balloon in half. The cut neck is turned over and inserted into the bottom of the bottle. Bait is poured onto the bottom (seeds, grain, etc.).

The trap is placed close to an object on which the mouse could climb. The rodent, having fallen into the funnel, can no longer get out of the bottle.

Console

The structure is a tipping platform. It is made from a piece of cardboard or plastic. The bar is placed on a plane so that half of it hangs in the air.

The bait is placed on the edge of the console so that the bar is on the verge of balance. The animal, having reached the bait, knocks over the bar and falls with it into the bucket that has been substituted.

Suspension

An empty plastic bottle with bait at the bottom is placed on the edge of the table. A cord is attached to the neck by piercing the plastic with a crochet from a paper clip. The other end of the cord is tied to some kind of support.

The mouse, attracted by the smell of food, enters the container. The bottle overturns under the weight of the rodent and hangs on the cord.

Metal loop mini vise

When performing small operations, it is often necessary to clamp small parts. To do this, use a mini vise made of a one-piece door hinge.

In both flaps, the hinges are drilled matching holes.

A bolt of a suitable diameter is threaded through them. On the other hand, a wing nut is screwed onto the bolt thread. Parts are inserted into the opening between the flaps and clamped by tightening the nut. The device can be used as a clamp.

Portable beer crate

A box for drinks in a glass container is a convenient device for carrying several bottles at once in the country or at a picnic. To make such a box with your own hands, you will need the following tools and materials:

Instruments

jigsaw;
saw on wood;
grinder;
drill screwdriver;
drill;
hammer;
chisel;
feather drill.

Materials (edit)

edged board - 1050 x 170 x 15 mm;
strips from the fruit box - 5 pcs.;
handle ø 36 mm and length 350 mm;
stain;
screws;
nails.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling the box

The edged board is sawn into three identical parts (bottom and two sidewalls), each 350 mm long.
Two boards are cut with a jigsaw so that from their middle the sidewalls taper and end with an oval top.
In the tops of the sidewalls, holes ø 36 mm are drilled with a feather drill.
All wooden parts are cleaned with a sander with an emery wheel. The handle is sanded by hand with emery.
4 holes are drilled with a thin drill along the edges of the bottom. From below, the nests of the holes are countersinked.
The sides are installed on the sides of the bottom. Screws are screwed in from the bottom of the bottom. The screw heads "hide" in the hole slots.
Two strips are nailed to the sides with studs on each side of the box. They will become a vertical bottle guard.
In three slats, cuts are made so that by folding them, you get a crate with square openings for glass containers.
The lathing is laid on the bottom between the sidewalls.
Carnations are nailed in those places where the ends of the crate rest against the sidewalls and guardrails.
A shank of ø 36 mm is threaded into the holes of the tops of the sidewalls.
Driving in nails at an angle, fasten the sidewalls with the handle.
The entire surface of the box is treated with stain.

The box is ready for use. The portable container can easily accommodate 6 bottles of beer or other drink. The crate and railings of the box will prevent bottles from breaking or falling out during transport.

Hammer modernization

A common occurrence is a wooden handle falling out of the hammer socket. One of the ways to create a secure attachment of the handle is to make a cut in the upper end of the handle. The holder is inserted into the socket of the hammer. The kerf is filled with Moment glue. A wooden wedge is driven into the groove.

In order not to look for nails during work, and even more so not to hold them with your teeth, a round magnet is glued into the hammer handle from below. Magnetic nails will always be at hand for the worker.
It is dangerous to accidentally fall out of the hand at a height. To prevent this from happening, a hole is drilled in the handle through which the cord is threaded. The employee's belt is threaded into the loop.

Homemade tools and machines

Pipe bender

The metal pipe bending device is a metal rod welded to the bed. The rod is made from a piece of reinforcement. The pipe is put on the pin, and on the other side, a long piece of reinforcement is inserted into the pipe. By pressing the lever, the pipe is bent at the desired angle. The device is suitable for small sections of round pipes.

Bending device for profiled pipes

Greenhouse owners know how important it is to have a device for bending lengths from a profile pipe. The curved profile is used as an arched structure for the formation of polyethylene coverings for greenhouses.

The pipe bender allows you to save a lot of money on the construction of a greenhouse. The design consists of 3 rollers - two are guides, and the third roller performs the leading function.

The profile tube is inserted into the opening between the two wheels and the roller. The roller has a stop and a swivel device in the form of a lever or an electric motor drive.

Making a pipe bender with your own hands

Two axles are welded to a metal frame from pieces of smooth reinforcement, on which old automobile hubs are put on.
The protruding chamfers are removed from the hubs so that the side surfaces of the rollers are smooth.
A channel is placed in the opening between the hubs with the shelves up.
The same profile is inserted into the channel, of a smaller width, with the shelves down.
An axle is welded to the inner profile from above, on which the third hub is put on.
A vertical sheet steel shelf is welded to the bed.
A hole is cut in the vertical bar and a bearing is pressed into it.
The nut is fixed on the middle channel by welding.
At one end, the screw shaft is screwed into the nut.
The screw shank is threaded through the bearing in the vertical bar.
On the back of the strap, a rotary handle is welded to the shank.
A pivot arm is welded to the axis of the drive hub.

The machine is now ready for use. A profile pipe is inserted between the rollers and clamped with a screw. The pivoting lever sets the rollers in motion, which pull the pipe, bending it. The bending radius is set with the rotary screw handle.

A pipe bender from car hubs is one of the device options. There are many designs of bending devices. In some models, the drive roller is coaxially connected to the motor shaft.

Impact screwdriver from starter

There are situations when it is impossible to unscrew a rusted bolt or screw with a regular tool. An impact screwdriver does an excellent job with this. The tool is made by hand from parts of a car starter:

The shaft and bushing are removed from the starter housing.
Part of the shaft is cut off, leaving the spline rod.
A piece of pipe of a suitable size is put on the sleeve.
A bolt of equal diameter is welded to the end of the pipe.
The end of the shaft is turned in the form of a tetrahedron, on which heads of the desired size are put on. For screws, a bit is inserted into the head.

When hitting the head of the bolt with a hammer, the shaft slides with beveled splines inside the sleeve, making a rotational movement. The stronger the blow, the more effort the shaft turns.

Homemade circular saw

A do-it-yourself cut-off machine from a grinder is not inferior to some factory-made samples. The grinder is a fairly powerful circular saw.

The machine on the basis of the grinder performs precise cuts of lumber and metal profiles. For its manufacture, you will need the power tool itself, a welding machine and a metal profile.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling the machine

Two metal strips are welded to the pipe section, in which the mounting holes are drilled.
Accordingly, two holes are also made in the grinder's casing.
The strips are bolted to the casing.
The machine bed is made of a metal sheet with support corners welded from below.
By welding, a vertical segment of the corner is attached to the bed, in which a hole is drilled.
A piece of angle is welded to the lower end of the lever and drilled through with the pipe.
The bolt is threaded through the holes and the hinge joint of the vertical rack with the lever is tightened with a nut. Additionally, a locknut is installed.
In the upright position, the grinder lever takes a stable position.
At the point of contact of the saw blade with the bed, a cut is made so that the blade can completely cut the workpiece.
The handle of the power tool is moved to the end of the lever.
As additional devices, a cross and corner stop are installed on the bed.

If necessary, remove the power tool from the machine and use the circular saw in manual mode.

Homemade bow saw

The bow saw is a handy tool for sawing tree trunks and lumber. The design of the saw is simple, making a hand tool with your own hands is not difficult. To do this, you need to prepare tools and materials:

Instruments

drill;
saw-hacksaw;
chisel;
hammer;

Materials (edit)

cord;
wooden lath 20 x 40 mm;
cotter pins - 2 pcs.;
handle ø 10 mm;
saw blade;
stain;
varnish on wood.

Step-by-step instructions for making a bow saw

The strip is sawn into three parts (two vertical side strips and a middle horizontal strip).
In the side handles, grooves are made with a chisel.
At the ends of the centerpiece, projections are cut out with a chisel for the grooves.
The mullion is connected to the side handles.
Through holes are drilled at the joints. Wooden cotter pins are driven into them.
The cotter pins form articulated joints. This is necessary for the mobility of the lower ends of the side rails when tensioning the web.
At the lower ends of the sidewalls, cuts are made - parallel to the middle.
Short bolts are inserted into the holes of the saw blade and tightened with nuts.
The blade is led into the cuts so that the bolts are outside the structure.
Circular grooves are cut at the upper ends of the handles.
At the ends of the double cord, loops are made, which are put on the grooves.
A handle is inserted between the strings of the cord, the long end of which rests against the middle.
The string of the saw is twisted with a handle, achieving the desired degree of tension on the saw blade.
The wood is covered with wood stain and two layers of varnish.
After the varnish has dried, the saw is ready for use.

Conclusion

Home-made devices, tools and machine tools not only bring significant benefits to the backyard, garage and household, but also significantly save the family budget. When making and using homemade products, one must not forget about safety rules.

Homemade machines and accessories for the home workshop.

The master came up with a new design of the machine based on the washing machine engine, which is more functional than analogues. In the process of work and in the final design, several interesting solutions were applied.

For homemade products, you will need a profile pipe, a sheet of plywood, a piece of water pipe, a bearing, a hairpin, and pulleys. At first I wanted to install a 420 watt motor, but later I replaced it with a 300 watt motor, which is enough for this design with pulleys.
A framework in the form of a parallelepiped.
The master decided to install a large diameter grinding disc - 45 cm in order to increase the functionality of the machine.
Such a machine has more possibilities.

Several comments.

Nils Forsberg
Maybe I'm a fool, of course, but I don't understand why people use disc grinders, why not belt grinders? After all, the plate has different speed of movement of the sandpaper in different places of the disk, which is why it is almost not used near the center, and at the edge, on the contrary, then again cut into a circle - loss of material, a lot of glue goes for gluing, etc. In a belt sander, the speed is the same everywhere, which is in the center and along the edges, it is more economical in terms of the consumption of sandpaper, in terms of glue consumption and in terms of wear resistance it is much better. you can glue the tape at least 3 meters or even more. Unless a tape engine is needed more powerful, but the benefits are undeniable.

Holmogorets
A week ago
super. one note, do not weld the bearing assembly. The welding current passes through the balls, can spark through them, and the service life of the unit is noticeably reduced. At least the return wire must be hooked onto the pipe itself, and not onto the axis. The rest is handsome!

Vladimir
I looked with pleasure. A lot of witty solutions! I would order the bearing housing from a turner, and then I sawed the pipe, pressed it in, welded it and everything is ready! Subscribed to the channel. Hopefully a lot to learn.
And the video editing made me happy! Already got people explaining “two and two” within an hour!

Machine tools and accessories from a simple drill

It is difficult to do without mechanization and automation, with only hand tools. However, the drill is such a versatile tool that even when there are no machines in the workshop, using simple tools, you can use just one drill to raise productivity and convenience of work and save not only time, but also finances.
Just watch 5 homemade products for a drill in a short overview video of the DaBRO video channel.
Featured video.

Another DIY tool to have in your home workshop if you have a drill and don't have a separate sander and polisher.

Drill holder

Attached to the workbench, like a meat grinder.

A drill with such a clamp works as a grinding or

polishing device.

Thanks for watching!

On the basis of a large spring, a machine turned out

A great and simple idea to make your hand-held circular saw more comfortable, safe, faster and more accurate. The craftsman fitted a large spring. The solution is universal and suitable for grinders and other tools.
Made a platform for the machine.

Attached the door hinge to the circular saw.

Joined to the platform.

I installed a guide for sawing at a 90 degree angle, but you can also vary the angle if necessary.

I put up the rack and secured the spring securely.

This is what the finished installation looks like.

The spring works as a return mechanism.

The idea of the author of the video channel Mr. Make Deswal: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z8Ol2Djo5KU

The idea of a simple clamp for a cut-off machine made things faster.

An interesting and very convenient clamp for fast work on a metal cutting machine is used by a master. Usually, not very convenient clamps are used, with which you have to fix the part for a rather long time. Labor time and energy are wasted. The clamp is installed on the machine platform. Dimensions of the device for clamping metal and other workpieces. The video will begin immediately with a demonstration of how this device works. It also shows how to make a machine and its attachment.

Many home craftsmen are thinking about how to make a metal lathe on their own. This desire is explained by the fact that with the help of such a device, which will be quite inexpensive, it is possible to efficiently perform a large list of turning operations, giving metal blanks the required dimensions and shape. It would seem that it is much easier to purchase a simple desktop machine and use it in your workshop, but given the considerable cost of such equipment, it makes sense to spend time making it yourself.

Homemade lathe is quite real

Using a lathe

The lathe, which was one of the first to appear in the line of equipment for processing parts from various materials, including metal, allows the manufacture of products of various shapes and sizes. With the help of such a unit, it is possible to turn the outer and inner surfaces of the workpiece, drill holes and bore them to the required size, cut an external or internal thread, and perform knurling in order to give the surface of the product the desired relief.

A serial lathe for metal is a dimensional device that is not so easy to operate, and its cost is very difficult to call affordable. It is not easy to use such a unit as a desktop equipment, so it makes sense to do it yourself. Using such a mini-machine, you can quickly turn workpieces made not only of metal, but also of plastic and wood.

On such equipment, parts with a circular cross-section are processed: axles, tool handles, wheels, structural elements of furniture and products for any other purpose. In such devices, the workpiece is located in a horizontal plane, while it is given rotation, and the excess material is removed by a cutter that is securely fixed in the machine support.

Despite the simplicity of its design, such a unit requires a clear coordination of the movements of all working bodies in order for the processing to be carried out with the utmost precision and the best workmanship.

An example of a homemade lathe with drawings

Let's take a closer look at one of the working options for a self-assembled lathe, the rather high quality of which rightfully deserves the closest attention. The author of this homemade product did not even skimp on the drawings, according to which this device was successfully manufactured.

Of course, not everyone needs such a thorough approach to business, often simpler structures are built for household needs, but as a donor for good ideas, this machine fits perfectly.

Machine appearance Main assemblies Support, tool holder and chuck
Side view Tailstock Bottom view of the tailstock
Idler shafts Caliper design Motor driven
Drawing No. 1 Drawing No. 2 Drawing No. 3

Structural units

Any, including home-made, lathe consists of the following structural elements: a supporting frame - a bed, two centers - a leading and a driven, two heads - front and rear, a spindle, a support, a drive unit - an electric motor.

All elements of the device are placed on the bed; it is the main bearing element of the lathe. The headstock is a fixed structural element on which the rotating spindle of the unit is located. In the front part of the frame there is a transmission mechanism of the machine, with the help of which its rotating elements are connected with an electric motor.

It is thanks to this transmission mechanism that the workpiece is rotated. The tailstock, in contrast to the front, can move parallel to the direction of machining, with its help the free end of the workpiece is fixed.

A home-made metal lathe can be equipped with any electric motor, even not too high power, but such a motor can overheat when processing large-sized workpieces, which will lead to its stop and, possibly, failure.

Usually, electric motors are installed on a homemade lathe, the power of which is in the range of 800-1500 watts.

Even if such an electric motor has a small number of revolutions, the problem is solved by choosing an appropriate transmission mechanism. To transmit torque from such electric motors, belt drives are usually used; frictional or chain mechanisms are very rarely used.

Mini-lathes, which are equipped with home workshops, may not even have such a transmission mechanism in their design: the rotating chuck of the unit is fixed directly to the motor shaft.

There is one important rule: both the centers of the machine, the leading and the driven, must be located strictly on the same axis, which will avoid vibration of the workpiece during its processing. In addition, it is necessary to ensure reliable fixation of the part, which is especially important for models of the frontal type: with one leading center. The issue of such fixation is solved using a cam chuck or faceplate.

In fact, a do-it-yourself lathe can be made with a wooden frame, but, as a rule, metal profiles are used for these purposes. The high rigidity of the lathe frame is required so that the accuracy of the location of the driving and driven center is not influenced by mechanical loads, and its tailstock and support with the tool move freely along the axis of the unit.

When assembling a lathe for metal, it is important to ensure reliable fixation of all its elements, be sure to take into account the loads to which they will be subjected during operation. What dimensions your mini-machine will have, and what structural elements it will consist of, will be influenced by the purpose of the equipment, as well as the size and shape of the workpieces that are planned to be processed on it. The power of the electric motor, which you will need to use as a drive, will also depend on these parameters, as well as on the magnitude of the planned load on the unit.

For equipping metal lathes, it is not recommended to choose collector electric motors, which differ in one characteristic feature. The number of revolutions of the shaft of such electric motors, as well as the centrifugal force developed by the workpiece, increase sharply with decreasing load, which can lead to the fact that the part will simply fly out of the chuck and can seriously injure the operator.

Such electric motors can be used if you plan to process small and lightweight parts on your mini-machine. But even in this case, it is necessary to equip a gearbox that will prevent the uncontrolled increase in centrifugal force.

It has already been proven by practice and design calculations that for turning units, on which metal blanks up to 70 cm long and up to 10 cm in diameter will be processed, it is best to use asynchronous electric motors with a power of 800 watts or more. Engines of this type are characterized by the stability of the rotational speed in the presence of a load, and when it decreases, it does not increase uncontrollably in them.

If you are going to make a mini-machine on your own to perform turning work on metal, then you should definitely take into account the fact that not only transverse, but also longitudinal loads will act on its chuck. Such loads, if not provided with a belt drive, can cause destruction of the motor bearings, which are not designed for them.

If it is not possible to use a belt drive, and the driving center of the device is directly connected to the motor shaft, then a number of measures can be provided to protect its bearings from destruction. A similar measure can be a stop that limits the longitudinal movement of the motor shaft, which can be a ball installed between the motor housing and the rear end of its shaft.

In the tailstock of the lathe, its driven center is located, which can be stationary or freely rotate. The simplest design has a fixed center: it is easy to make it on the basis of an ordinary bolt, sharpening and grinding under a taper that part of it that will be in contact with the workpiece. By screwing or unscrewing such a bolt moving along the threaded hole in the tailstock, it will be possible to adjust the distance between the centers of the equipment, thereby ensuring reliable fixation of the workpiece. Such fixation is also provided by moving the tailstock itself.

In order for the workpiece to rotate freely in such a stationary center, the pointed part of the bolt, which is in contact with it, will need to be lubricated with machine oil before starting work.

Today it is not difficult to find drawings and photos of lathes, according to which you can independently make such equipment. Moreover, it is not difficult to find various videos demonstrating the process of their manufacture. It can be a mini-CNC machine or a very simple device, which, nevertheless, will give you the ability to quickly and with minimal effort to produce metal products of various configurations.

The racks of the simplest metal lathe can be made of wood. They will need to be securely fastened to the machine frame using bolted connections. The frame itself, if possible, is better made of metal corners or a channel, which will provide it with high reliability, but if they are not at hand, you can also pick up thick wooden bars.

The video below shows the process of self-manufacturing a caliper for a lathe.

Usually every smart owner has his own workshop. It contains the necessary tools and equipment. Some tools are easy to purchase in the store, and some are easy to build with your own hands. The tools necessary for all occasions, a person cannot predict and purchase in advance. Therefore, it is worth figuring out how to make homemade machines and accessories for a home workshop.

The essence of homemade products

Homemade machines and tools come in different types, many of which are fairly easy to build with your own hands.

Homemade incisors

There are people who can even build a device that has many purposes. If we consider a universal device, then it can be built from an ordinary drill. Its work replaces the following units:

cut-off mini-machine;
circular saw;
sharpener;
lathe;

To make such devices, you need to use a drill and install it on the bed. In the form of a bed, a board with a thickness of 20 to 25 mm is perfect. The drill is installed on the part of the body intended for attaching an additional handle.

The installation area will depend on the dimensions of the circular disc, sharpening stone, grinding wheel, etc. To install the drill, you will need a tightly secured threaded rod and nut. For a stronger hold, use a 2mm pin and epoxy adhesive. After that, you need to make a moving sole and the machine is ready.

To make a circular saw at home, you need a saw blade with a diameter of 15 cm.

It is attached to the drill chuck and a slot is made in the bed. A metal guard is ideal for protecting the saw blade.

With this circular saw it is possible to make a cutting machine. To do this, a swivel bracket is attached to a fixed area, as well as a joinery miter box, which sets the cutting angle.

When all this is combined with the circular saw on the bed, a cut-off machine is formed. Lathes and grinding machines are assembled in the same way.

Circular unit

If a person wants to make only a circular machine, then it is best to use a manual circular; specialists can purchase it in a store. Homemade products are not adapted for huge loads, and their periodic operation is quite suitable for household chores.

For its construction, you need a bed and a manual circular is installed on it. The cut should be made as large as possible, but the position should be the same. After that, the bed must be turned over so that the circular is at the bottom, and fixed on the frame with legs. After the construction of the guide, the operation of the machine should be started.

Required for the workshop. This unit perfectly helps to cope with pipes, bends almost any metal and strips. When constructing a greenhouse or greenhouse, it is necessary to use bent pipes, here you will need a pipe bender.

This tool has several types (from the simplest to those similar to the factory ones). It is very difficult to build similar options to the factory ones. It is best to use the usual one, it can be made with the help of a sawn board, there must be a semicircle on the opposite side.

This part is installed to a stable area, and next to it is a stop made of a wooden part. It takes place for a semicircular workpiece, where one end of the pipe is attached.

Such an apparatus must be used by bending the pipes not from the middle, but from the end. Otherwise, there is a risk of breaking the workpiece, the pipe bender is made large and small. It depends on the radius of the pipe.

Homemade quick-clamping clamp

Self-made equipment signs

Any unit has personal needs and capabilities. In the workshop, there is always a place where the workbench and tools are stored.

The construction of a workbench is a rather serious process. In this case, it is required to immediately determine the required device, the place of its installation and the materials from which it will be built. The countertop is often made of metal or wood.

A circular machine or clamps, a vice, a jigsaw are immediately attached to the structure.

The height of the structure must be comfortable:

tool storage panels and cabinets are essential. They can also be made with your own hands without much effort;
the master is obliged to reach the top shelf without interruption without interruption from the main activity;
the fasteners of the shelves must be of high quality.

Making a wood turning unit yourself

To produce a lathe with your own hands for a workshop, you need to pay attention to the bed.

The performance of the remaining parts and the fixation of the entire structure depend on it. It is often done with wood or metal.

For the construction of homemade machines, you will need standard blueprints. For them, it is recommended to use an electric motor for the construction of a lathe. It contributes to the development of a speed of 1.5 thousand revolutions per minute. If this machine will process large workpieces, then the power factor should be increased.

When constructing a lathe and copying machine for wood with your own hands, an old hand-held milling cutter is perfect. This part must be placed on an area of plywood that is 1.2 cm thick.

Holes must be made in the plywood before placing the tool. Bar installation elements will also be attached to this location. This design is quite simple to manufacture.

Homemade machines for a home workshop are easy to build. The main thing is that there is a desire, this will save money. Homemade machines for the home are simply irreplaceable. With their help, it is easy to do any work with your own hands.