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If the site is located in an area of \u200b\u200bfrequent accumulation of moisture, then a drainage system around the house is mandatory. A drainage device will drain the soil around the perimeter. The constant impact of water on the supporting structures also leads to rapid destruction, since the rate of reproduction of microorganisms and fungi increases sharply.
Trench preparation for pipeline laying
Drainage system around the house: drainage device in two versions
Drainage channels can be laid in two main ways. When the location is open, the aesthetic characteristics of the surrounding landscape are violated. Therefore, in most cases, they resort to the device of deep systems, when perforated pipelines are buried in the ground.
Related article:
Benefits of open networks
The advantages of open channel systems for soil drainage are as follows:
- the outlet is superficial, therefore it does not require labor-intensive work;
- when arranging channels, additional elements are not needed, which avoids unnecessary costs;
- the system is effective when used on clay soils.
Useful information! Despite their positive qualities, open nets are best suited for drainage around the site. It is not recommended to arrange such systems near residential buildings due to their low aesthetic characteristics.
Benefits of deep networks
The main advantage of closed networks is the hidden laying of elements, that is, after some time after the completion of the work, no traces remain. You can do landscape design without restrictions. However, such systems are ineffective in the presence of clayey soil located close to the surface.
Note! If the foundation drainage device is carried out with your own hands on clay soils, then you can additionally install point devices for collecting water.
Open drainage works around a residential building
Open systems are most effective in draining surface water that falls as precipitation. They are ditches no more than 50 cm deep, located along a predetermined path. Trenches around the perimeter will spoil the appearance of the site, so their decoration is simply necessary.
Natural stones or brushwood are most often used as materials for decoration. First, large cobblestones are laid at the bottom of the ditches, allowing the formation of channels for the passage of water. Then stones of medium size or tree branches are laid.
This scheme creates an open drainage system around the house. A drainage device of this type is considered quite economical. During the work, additional elements such as pipes and special membranes are not used. The correct decor will allow you to successfully fit the gutters into the overall landscape of the site.
Prices for turnkey drainage works around the house: ready-made option
Developers who do not want to figure out how to properly drain around the house can hire professional workers. Many firms offer a wide range of services for the creation of various systems from design to implementation. The table shows the prices for a complete list of works.
Table 1. Average cost of drainage works.
Additional services may be offered during drainage works. They will have to be paid separately. As a rule, firms offer the jobs presented in the table.
Table 2. Cost of additional services for drainage works.
Note! To conclude an agreement on the installation of drainage on the site should be with those firms that provide a guarantee. The minimum period of its validity should not be less than 2-3 years.
In a private house there are several places that need to be protected from getting wet from the outside. This is the foundation and buried buildings. Rainwater, all kinds of drains and rising groundwater gradually destroy the monolithic foundations and walls of the basements. A properly equipped drainage system around the house can prevent the occurrence of this process. It is able to drain excess moisture from structures. Even a very good blind area cannot be compared in terms of the degree of protection of a house with a laid drainage system. It is highly recommended to equip such a system near every house, regardless of the presence of a basement or basement.
A high-quality do-it-yourself drainage system around the house can be made in several versions:
Features of different foundation drainage systems
The choice of a particular type of drainage depends on the presence of buried premises, the depth of the groundwater, the composition of the soil at the site and the relief of the site itself. Consider what features the drainage device around the house has.
In total, there are 3 types of drainage, which differ in their location and design:
Important: Please note that reservoir drainage does not replace another type of drainage, but only complements it. Therefore, in addition to it, the main drainage system must be carried out.
Please note that if you decide to do ring drainage around the house with your own hands, the system should be located 0.5 m below the foundation level. This arrangement will provide a high-quality drainage of groundwater from the building at any time of the year.
And if you are thinking about that, then our separate material on this topic may be useful to you.
Drainage installation
Consider how to make a drainage system around the house in two ways.
Manufacturing of wall drainage
Before performing the work, it is necessary to prepare the foundation, since the system will directly adjoin it.
For this, the following work is carried out:
- From the outside, the foundation is primed with a special bituminous primer.
- Bituminous mastic is applied to the dried surface.
- Reinforcement mesh with 2 x 2 mm cells is glued to the mastic.
- The next day, after the mastic has hardened, the second layer of mastic is again applied to the mesh.
In the photo there is a drainage system around the house - a trench and inspection wells at the edges - a collector well is being mounted, to which drainage pipes will be supplied. It is located at the lowest point on the site;
- with the help of a laser or building level, the slope of the trench passing near the foundation is provided towards the drainage basin;
- the bottom of the trenches is covered with a layer of sand of at least 5 cm;
- geotextiles are laid on the sand, the sides of which will subsequently overlap;
- a gravel backfill is created, having a thickness of about 10 cm;
- prepared perforated pipes are laid on the gravel layer. Their slope is provided at 2 degrees;
- pipes are joined by adapters and corner connectors;
- at the corners of the building, all pipelines enter the installed inspection chambers;
- pipes are laid from the manholes to drain water into a collection well or drain pit. These pipes are also located in trenches and have a slope;
- the pipes are backfilled with gravel (about 10 cm) and the entire contents are wrapped with geotextiles. By means of synthetic ropes, the geotextile is firmly fixed;
- further backfilling of trenches to the soil level is carried out with sand or sod land.
We looked at how to drain around a wall-type foundation. Next, we will pay attention to the manufacture of trench drainage, which is even more popular.
Making a ring drain
For this type of work, you will also need perforated pipes, crushed stone, sand and geotextiles. When a ring drainage system is made around the house, the technology provides for digging trenches at a distance of 5-8 m from the foundation of the building in order to exclude the possibility of soil subsidence around it. Trenches are located around the building and represent a closed system. The depth of the trenches should be such that the drainage goes below the foundation level by 50 cm.
Immediately draw a trench (or several trenches) towards the main drainage well. The slope of the trenches is ensured at least 2-3 cm per linear meter. The slope can be adjusted by adding sand in the right places.
- the bottom of the trenches is lined with a layer of sand, and then geotextiles, the edges of which are wrapped around their walls;
- crushed stone is poured onto the geotextile with a layer of 10 cm;
- pipes with holes drilled in them are laid out on the rubble. It is advisable to use a pipe diameter of at least 10 cm. It is advisable to pre-wrap all pipes with a layer of geotextile, which will prevent them from clogging;
Tip: Conventional PVC pipes used for sewage are fine. In them, you can drill holes of small diameter with a drill, placing them in a certain order.
- the slope of the pipes is checked, which must be at least 2 degrees;
- on pipe bends, inspection chambers are mounted, which are closed with removable covers. The same wells should be installed on long straight sections, in increments of 12 m;
- crushed stone or gravel is poured over the laid pipes with a layer of 20-30 cm;
- the whole "pie" inside the trenches is wrapped with an overlap with geotextile;
- the place remaining in the trenches is filled with river sand and covered with sod.
Features of drainage wells
Any drainage around a site or structure should be constructed using several inspection wellslocated in places where pipes are bent. It is in these places that drainage pipes are most often clogged. Through the inspection well, you can control the cleanliness of the drains and clean them if necessary. Wells can be purchased or made from any material. They should be of such a width that it is convenient to clean them by placing your hand there.
In addition to several inspection wells, in the lowest place of the site there is collector welldesigned to collect all the water flowing down the channels. It is a wider and more voluminous structure that can be concrete, plastic, or metal. Its depth is chosen so that the pipes entering it are at a considerable distance to the bottom. This makes it possible to periodically clean the well from sediments accumulated on its bottom and allows the well to be filled with drains. From the collecting tank, water can be pumped out by a pump or flow away by gravity to the designated places.
Having created a drainage system around the house according to all the rules, you will get rid of the destructive influence of excessive dampness affecting the foundation and buried premises of the house.
The drainage system arranged around the house makes it possible to significantly reduce or even completely remove excess water from the site. And this applies not only to groundwater, but also to precipitation. Do not confuse drainage with waterproofing, they can perfectly complement each other, but not interchangeably.
When can you not do without drainage?
A drainage system is necessary in many areas, but in some it is indispensable.
- Drainage is especially needed in areas that are located quite low. In such places, the problem of excessive moisture accumulation is constant.
- Drainage is essential in clay soils where the water level drops too slowly. Loamy soils are also better not to be ignored and drainage systems.
- Such systems are necessary if there is a constant high rainfall in the area.
- In areas where the water table is at a fairly high level, it is also best to use drainage.
- The reason for organizing a drainage system can also be a large number of waterproof coatings on the site, for example, concrete paths, an asphalt yard, and so on.
- Drainage is also required if the site has adjacent buildings with a buried foundation. Indeed, in such a case, water will collect on the surface, since it will not be able to find a way out anywhere. As a result, the likelihood of flooding increases.
- Even if there are no obvious prerequisites for arranging drainage, you should find out the features of the climate and terrain. If there is the slightest concern that the groundwater level may rise after rapid melting of snow or frequent rains, it is better to play it safe and install a drainage system. This will save not only money on home renovations, but also nerves.
Purpose and types of systems
The methods of organizing drainage systems on the site differ depending on the amount of precipitation, the level of groundwater, the characteristics of the type of soil, the relief of the site, the location of the house and other factors.
Drainage according to the installation method can be divided into two types.
- A perfect drainage system is installed at the level of natural flow of water. Moisture enters the drains through the holes located on the sides, as well as through the top of the pipes.
- An imperfect drainage system is installed higher than the water level. Moisture penetrates the drains from the bottom, top and sides. To strengthen the sides of this structure, a drainage pad made of sand and gravel is used.
By the way the drainage is arranged, it is divided into open and closed.
Open
Drainage is a system of gutters, trenches, gutters, gutters. This system is organized without pipes. Such drainage looks like a trench 0.5 meters wide and 0.5-0.6 meters deep, designed to drain melt and storm water from the house or from the site. The trench necessarily has a slope towards the main water intake trench, so that water is drained in the desired direction by gravity.
The main advantages of such a drainage system are its low cost and speed of creation.... However, in order to divert a large amount of water due to precipitation, a deep drainage line will be required, which is unsafe. In addition, if the walls of the ditches are not equipped, they will quickly collapse. Another disadvantage of this system is that it makes the site look less tidy and aesthetically unattractive.
To increase safety and increase the service life of this drainage option, special concrete or plastic trays are used, which are closed on top with gratings. Open drainage is most often used in agriculture to drain water from already cultivated areas.
Closed
Underground drainage is a pipe system. It has a prettier appearance compared to the previous one, as it is equipped with a protective grid, but the receiving ditch is much narrower and shallower. Closed drainage schemes are used to protect foundations, basements from groundwater and increase their service life.
Particularly closed drainage is suitable for wetlands, as well as areas near which there are natural reservoirs or located in the lowlands. In this case, a closed drainage is best supplemented with a storm sewer. Underground drainage is also called deep drainage.
Underground drainage is divided into two types:
- wall-mounted;
- trench.
It should be clarified that closed drainage is best performed at the stage of building construction.
If the house is already completely ready, then you should opt for a ring trench drainage system. But it should be borne in mind that it is suitable only for houses without a basement. In small areas where there is no need for open drainage, backfill drainage is used. The system of such backfill trenches is not serviced without dismantling after complete arrangement. This is its main drawback. The organization of backfill drainage is carried out in several stages.
Most often in practice, open trench drainage is used, since it is the easiest to arrange.
Shower as an addition
A storm drain or storm sewer will be a useful addition to the drainage system. It allows you to remove water from the site that falls on it in the form of precipitation. Through the storm drain, the water moves either to the water-collecting well, or to the collector well, from which there is an outlet to the drainage ditch or sewer network. For a well, it is best to choose the most distant place from the building. You can also organize the drainage of water using storm water in the nearest body of water.
It should be remembered that for stormwater pipelines, laying over geotextiles is best suited, and it is better to drain water directly into storm water inlets.
Storm drainage is also called surface drainage. Its main advantage is that it is very easy to set up on the site. However, it should be borne in mind that stormwater can only cope with melt and rainwater.
The stormwater is divided into three types:
- Linear allows you to divert melt and rainwater not only from the house, but also from the entire site. This type is represented by channels that are dug into the ground and a drainage well. Often, the channels are made in the form of straight lines, which are covered with bars for safety.
- Pointallows you to drain water from individual sources, for example, from sprinklers or roof gutters. In order to prevent debris from getting into this storm drain, it is covered with metal gratings. The organization of the linear view is that pipes are laid from each point, which are connected to the main pipe that goes to the drainage well.
- Combined rainstorm involves the use of both linear and point views.
Household drainage
Types
There are several types of drainage systems around the house.
- Reservoir drainage is used as an auxiliary structure. Such drainage is most often used as additional to the main system. It is best to choose it for areas where groundwater occurs at a shallow depth. It is ideal for draining surface water. Often, reservoir drainage is used in clayey areas. It must be located at a short distance from the foundation of the building.
- Annular drainage prevents flooding of basements and basements. It is best to use such drainage in areas where the content of sand is increased. This is due to the fact that the annular drainage almost does not retain moisture, easily passing it through.
- Wall-mounted drainage is most commonly used. It allows you to protect not only the building, but also the basement levels from moisture. It is recommended for use in areas with a lot of clay.
Device
In order to better understand what type of drainage is suitable for a particular site, it is necessary to consider in detail the device of each of them.
- Reservoir. The formation drainage is based on an air gap. Such a drainage option can be made in various ways. The most common of these is gravel drainage. For its arrangement, it is necessary to place a layer of gravel about 50 centimeters high under the operating surface. This layer will become the air gap. A filter cloth such as geotextile must be placed in this gap. Then pour a layer of sand and finish, for example, with tiles.
- Annular.The scheme of this drainage is a vicious circle. Breaks of the circle are acceptable if the water flows exclusively from one side of the building. The ring system is installed lower than the basement level and at a distance of two to three meters from the walls. This prevents the basements from flooding, and also prevents the soil on the site from collapsing.
- Wall mounted.This system is installed at a distance of about 50 centimeters from the walls of the building. Moreover, it must be installed lower than the level at which the basement is located. As a result, the wall drainage system optimally protects the foundation from moisture ingress. Most often, this type of drainage is used in areas where the soil composition is heterogeneous.
Scheme and principle of operation
Despite the variety of drainage systems, they all work on a similar principle and have similar designs. The drainage scheme can be represented as a closed system of pipes connected to each other. Typically, most types of drainage systems are installed lower than the building's basement level. In order for the perimeter of a private house to be well protected from moisture, it is best to install the drainage system at an angle. With this solution, the water will drain well without lingering.
Before starting to drain water, you should definitely find out at what height the groundwater is located. This is done in the following way: a layer of earth is dug at a depth of more than two meters, and then the condition of the soil is assessed.
In order for the water to accumulate and then move away from there, a well is made in the corner of the building, from which a pipe system is laid to drain water outside the site. If the drainage is arranged correctly, then the basement and basement will not be wet and damp. Otherwise, you need to identify where mistakes were made. To improve the quality of drainage, an additional waterproofing system can be installed.
How to do it right?
It is not difficult to properly arrange the drainage system with your own hands. The best place to start is with preparatory work. For this, the terrain is first studied, the composition of the soil is determined, and the level of groundwater is estimated. After that, work is carried out to prepare the foundation of the structure. To do this, trenches are dug around the perimeter of the base. Then dirt is removed from them, as well as layers of thermal and waterproofing.
The cleaned foundation is subject to mandatory drying. The foundation itself will dry out in 5-7 days, and in good warm weather it can be faster. You can also use mechanical means like a heat gun for drying. Such means can speed up the process up to one day.
As soon as the foundation is dry, a layer of waterproofing is applied to it. As the latter, you can use polyethylene or bitumen. And only after that the drainage system is installed.
For strip foundations
In order to properly equip the drainage for the strip foundation, you must adhere to a number of rules. Then the installation of the drainage system will not be difficult, and the result will be amazing.
- You need to start by digging a trench around the perimeter of the building. The depth of the trench should be greater than the depth at which the foundation lies. At the bottom of this trench, a so-called drainage cushion with a height of 30 centimeters must be laid. The pillow should be 15 centimeters from coarse river sand and 15 centimeters from fine gravel. It must be tamped and spilled well with water.
- The pipeline system is laid directly. Drainage pipes must be covered with a waterproofing layer such as bitumen or polyethylene. So that the accumulated moisture has a place to drain, a well is installed with drainage outside the boundaries of the site.
For a monolithic base
The manufacture of a drainage system for a monolithic base is more complicated. The main feature is that the drainage system is laid before the foundation is erected. This allows you to protect the base of the building in case the ground moves. Particular emphasis should be placed on the quality of the drainage construction work. After all, this affects how strong and durable the building as a whole will be. First, you need to prepare a special pit in which the drainage system will be installed. The pit depth is calculated based on the location and height of the foundation.
At the bottom of the foundation, a layer of brick battle is poured, and then a layer of sand and fine gravel. After that, the entire pillow is carefully compacted. Drainage pipes must be reinforced using special ceilings. Geotextiles are used to seal the pipe surface. In order for the accumulation and removal of water to occur, it is necessary to dig a well from which the pipe will go beyond the site.
Many have faced such an unpleasant situation when after a rainstorm it is impossible to go out into the courtyard of a private house or summer cottage. It is even worse when the entire crop is flooded with rain or melt water. And how to deal with such a scourge? Of course, for this you can also dig ordinary ditches through which water will be diverted, but it is still not the easiest way to be more acceptable - drainage in a summer cottage or the territory of a private house. But how to arrange it and how difficult it is to do such work with your own hands, now let's try to figure it out.
Read in the article:
Diy water drainage methods from home: some practical tips
The issue of drainage of rain or melt water from the site is very relevant for all owners of houses, summer cottages, and garages with a cellar or a viewing pit. That is why the drainage device is very important. And for sure, it is not worth explaining once again that without certain knowledge, such work is unlikely to be completed. But still, it is not so difficult to hire professionals for it, which means there is an opportunity to save money. Now we will figure out how to remove water from the site with our own hands and what methods exist for this. In addition, it makes sense to deal with the prices of both the material for drainage and the prices for the services of professionals.
By the type of device, such drainage can be divided into internal, external and reservoir. In this case, both one of them and combined drainage can be used, in which two or three methods are used. First, let's analyze the general rules for arranging each of them:
- Internal drainage - used for cellars and basements and serves to drain water that has already been absorbed into the soil.
- External or open drainage removes water from the site directly during rain, not allowing it to linger on the surface.
- Reservoir allotment - it is used almost always when building a house. In simple terms, it is a kind of "pillow" under the building that absorbs the accumulated water.
Drainage of a summer cottage is a rather laborious process, but sometimes you can't do without it. This issue is especially relevant for areas located in lowlands, as well as with a high occurrence of groundwater.
Drainage - what is it? Precise definition and photo examples
To be precise, drainage is a system of drainage of rain and groundwater from a certain area in order to prevent flooding. Those. its device is necessary in most cases even at the construction stage. But still, finished buildings, around which drainage is not provided, can be protected. The main thing is to think over the entire system in detail, draw up a project and make some efforts to bring it to life.
In order to understand in general terms how the drainage system of a yard or building is arranged, it makes sense to consider several photo examples.
Of course, the whole algorithm of operation of the drainage system associated with the device cannot be understood by looking only at the photo. This means that there is a need to consider all the nuances of drainage both from the adjoining territory and from the cellar and other buildings. Well, if we return to the question of what drainage is for, then there are a lot of answers to it. But the main function of water drainage, naturally, will be to protect the foundation from destruction, and the cellars and yards from flooding.
Open drainage in a summer cottage: the easiest way to secure the cellar and foundation
Of course, when arranging drainage in suburban areas, you can get by with banal irrigation ditches. And yet, in our time there is a great variety of materials that will help make drainage more aesthetically pleasing and beautiful. And it is quite easy to completely hide the highways from the eyes, if the need arises. And since the drainage scheme as a whole depends on the purpose of the area being drained, it makes sense to deal with the nuances, to understand how the drainage system should be arranged on the site, and what features are available for drainage from buildings or cellars.
It's important to know! The blind area around buildings and structures, drainpipes and other similar devices are also part of the drainage, and therefore their role should not be underestimated. On the contrary, improperly organized drains from the roof of a building can significantly impair the removal of water from the local area, nullifying all the efforts of a home craftsman.
So, let's start with the most important, in terms of need, drainage - around residential buildings.
How to make drainage around the house - practical tips and tricks
The main task before making drainage around the house is to choose the right place for the well, into which the rainwater will drain. Moreover, it must be arranged in such a way that it does not have to be pumped out periodically. Also, do not forget about the sand traps in the gutters.
In general terms, the work is done as follows. A shallow trench is dug along the perimeter of the building, connected to the well. Moreover, it must have a slope that can be measured out using a building level. Further, the bottom of the dug trench is covered with sand and rammed. Gutters are laid inside, which can be either open or closed with a special mesh. It prevents large debris and foliage from entering the drain.
Important advice! How the drainage will function depends on the slope of the gutter and its correctness. Therefore, it is necessary to measure it very carefully.
The nuances of drainage at their summer cottage
Such water diversion is done in order to protect the plantations from flooding. It is mainly used in places with swampy ground and where the occurrence of groundwater is quite high. The essence of such a drainage device is as follows. It is necessary to dig a trench along the section, about half a meter deep, into which afterwards you will need to lay pipes with perforation. For them, a sand pillow is made on a special fabric. Thus, excess water, again, will fall into the well.
Another way to prevent groundwater from entering the site can also be the installation of drainage gutters around the perimeter. But the most convenient method will be the formation drainage device. In this case, gravel of various sizes is poured into the dug trenches, after which they are covered with sod. Today it is the cheapest of all drainage methods, and therefore the most common. It is worth noting that with all the availability of drainage systems for sites, few people start such work. And this is a big mistake. After all, the mounted water diversion does not cause any inconvenience, while it has a lot of positive qualities.
Video: how to drain the site
Drainage of soil around garages and other buildings
How to make drainage in the garage and what it is for - these are the most common questions that arise before the home craftsman when designing such systems. It must be understood that the removal of groundwater from the premises will not only preserve its foundation. Indeed, for many, the cellar is located in the garage, which means it is necessary to protect it from flooding. Of course, there is another way out, such as installing a sealed box (caisson), but over time it will rot. And in installation, this design is rather complicated.
But even in the absence of a cellar or a viewing hole, drainage in the garage will not hurt. After all, in winter, melted snow will drip from the car, which evaporates greatly to humidify the air. And if there is a drainage system, the humidity will remain normal.
Is the drainage device in the basements of houses an overkill or a necessity?
Some argue that if there is drainage on the site and around the house, then it is completely useless in the basement of the building. This is a fairly common mistake. Water can penetrate into it below the street drain. And it is not necessary to say what consequences this can lead - for sure everyone understands this well.
It is most convenient to carry out drainage during the construction phase, i.e. laying the foundation. But even if this was not foreseen, there is still a way out. Water can be drained even in rooms with concrete floors. We will dwell in more detail on the methods of performing such work a little later.
In more detail about how to make drainage - the need for the project
A responsible approach to such work should begin at the design stage, which is not surprising. After all, its functionality depends on the thoughtfulness and drawing up of a scheme for the future drainage of water. That is why there is a need to carefully draw up a project with exact dimensions, as well as subsequent strict adherence to it.
First you need to measure the site and in general terms think about the location of the highways. In this case, it is worth taking into account both the most flooded areas and the slope of the surfaces. The stormwater well must be located at the lowest point. Do not forget that at each connection (in the corners) there must be technical wells or cleanings. This is dictated by the need for sand and silt settling to prevent blockages of both the pipes themselves and perforations in them.
Then, before properly making the drainage on the site, it must be marked clearly according to the drawn up scheme.
Important advice! If you do not comply with the size of the project, there is a risk that with severe blockages and the impossibility of cleaning without dismantling, you will have to dig up half of the site in search of drainage lines. It is for this reason that it is worth saving the sketched diagram.
Do-it-yourself drainage well - how to do it right
To begin with, let's deal with the three main types of this drainage part. He can be:
- Lookout - used for visual observation and prevention of blockages;
- Cumulative - excess moisture from the site accumulates inside. Such a device requires periodic evacuation;
- Absorbing - water collected from the territory goes into the ground or into a nearby reservoir.
The fact is that before making a drainage well, it is necessary to take into account several factors, such as the slope of the soil, the depth of the groundwater, the possibility of drainage into any body of water, etc. Already on the basis of these data, a conclusion is made about the appropriateness of one type or another.
Article
Owners of household plots located on land with a high level of humidity, as well as all owners of garden plots in the autumn and spring, have to face the problem of installing a high-quality drainage system. An increased level of moisture in the earth leads to such unpleasant consequences as diseases of various plantings in the garden, washing away the foundation of the house and outbuildings with groundwater, as well as flooding the basement. One of the types of drainage systems is drainage without pipes, the device of which can be found below.
There are two types of drainage systems:
- Open
- Closed
The first type is used to remove surface water that forms after snow melt or the passage of rains. Typically, open drainage looks like this: grooves 0.7 m deep and 0.5 m wide are dug throughout the entire area with a certain slope. Often, plastic or concrete trays are placed in the recesses, which are closed with a grid on top. A layer of sand about 10 cm thick is poured onto the bottom of the ditches and carefully compacted.
The second type of drainage, closed - is used to drain groundwater. Below the level of freezing of the soil, ditches with a slope are dug, at the bottom of which pipes are laid to drain water into the sinkhole.
In addition to using pipelines in a closed drainage system, you can use backfill material using broken stone or brick, backfilled inside the trench. This method is budgetary, but ineffective, since it quickly leads to silting of the ditches. An alternative and effective way to create a drainage system from the soil is drainage with gravel without pipes, or, so-called, soft drainage.
Drainage in an area without pipes
The choice in favor of drainage with gravel without pipes is often due to the fact that the soil contains an insignificant volume of water, which would require the arrangement of a volumetric drainage system with pipes. In addition, the reason for choosing a drainage without pipes may be the too complex relief of the site or its layout, a large number of plantings, as well as insufficient finances for arranging a complex drainage system. A drainage system using crushed stone without pipes is less expensive and simple in the device: you just need to monitor the correct slope of the grooves without aligning the various pipes.
Depending on the type of soil, the urgency of the work, the financial capacity, there are two ways to make drainage on the site: with or without the use of geotextile material. In the first case, the method of performing drainage will be more expensive, and in the second, less durable.
There are a lot of varieties of geotextile material, as well as its manufacturers, on the market today. The best option for arranging a drainage system will be polypropylene geotextiles. It resists well to various environmental influences, and also has excellent filtering qualities. For effective drainage work, you need a geotextile cloth with a density of 60-110 g / m2. Geotextile acts as a filter material, while a waterproofing material must also be used. This material is tecton. Geotextile fabric does not allow drainage materials to clog up and silt up trenches for a long time. With the help of tecton, water does not accumulate in the soil, but is discharged outside the site into the drain. Of course, you can replace tecton with more budgetary materials, such as plastic wrap, roofing felt, and other cardboard-based bituminous materials, but they do not guarantee a durable drainage system.
Sand and gravel are selected as drainage materials. There are no special requirements for sand, and crushed stone should not be chosen from limestone, because after some time it will cause soil salinity. The fraction of crushed stone can be from 20 to 60 mm. The backfill will need to be flushed before backfilling the trenches.
How to make drainage in an area without pipes
Before making drainage without using pipes, it is necessary to draw up a geodetic plan of the site with marked places of hills and lowlands. These sections will determine the direction of the trench lines, since a drain without pipes must begin at the highest point in the relief and end at the lowest. The drainage system diagram should consist of: a central conductor with a depth of at least 50 cm, drainage drains at a distance of 7-10 meters from each other, as well as a water accumulator, if it is not removed by the system outside the site.
A trench is dug at an angle of inclination that coincides with the direction of the drain. The bottom of the recess must be made semicircular, like a groove.
The ditches are cleared of debris, mud, after which the bottom is lined with tecton. Geotextile is laid from above to the inside of the ditch so that the bottom and side walls are completely closed with a margin of at least 20-30 cm.After that, crushed stone is poured and closed with a geotextile cloth with an overlap of at least 30 cm. Sand is poured on top of the crushed stone, carefully compacted. Sod can be laid on a sandy surface or a geogrid or geogrid can be used if a site with a high load on the soil is located in the place of the trench.
The device for soil drainage without the use of waterproofing materials is similar, but has fewer advantages. Soft drainage with the laying of geotextiles and tecton not only takes the water out of the site, but also filters it, allowing it to be used in the future as industrial water or for irrigation of plantations.
Drainage around the house with your own hands without pipes
Do-it-yourself drainage around the house has certain features. Depending on the height of the base of the house, the ditch is pulled out with a depth that exceeds the base of the foundation of the house by 30-50 cm. At the same time, you should pay attention to the fact that it is impossible to dig a drainage trench around all the walls at once - this carries a certain danger to the stability of the foundation, therefore trenches are dug near the walls alternately. The angle of inclination of the trench should be 1 cm per 1 linear meter.
The bottom is carefully compacted in compliance with a certain slope. This can be done with compacted clay or concreting. The foundation near the wall is waterproofed. Further, a layer of crushed stone of a coarse fraction is laid to a depth of 1/3 of the ditch, a layer of crushed stone of a finer fraction is laid on it, and a fine drainage is laid on top of them to level it with the ground.
Soft drainage without gravel
Drainage without the use of pipes can also be carried out without the use of crushed stone, since, depending on the depth of the trenches, its amount is sometimes very large and expensive. One of these methods is fascinated drainage: birch, coniferous, or oak brushwood, tied in bundles 30 cm long, is laid on the bottom of the trenches. Crossed pegs are laid along the entire length of the trench, and below them - brushwood (fascina). Sand is poured on top.
Instead of gravel, it is also advisable to use expanded clay for arranging a wall drainage system around the house. Its main advantage is low thermal conductivity, due to which it performs a heat-insulating function.
The closed method of soil drainage is to use backfill material - pieces of brick, small stones, concrete fragments. The entire trench is filled with these materials, but without the use of geotextiles, such a ditch very quickly silts up.
Using ordinary plastic bottles is an alternative to crushed stone and fascines, a simple and budget option. To implement such a drainage system, bottles with twisted caps are placed along the trench at the bottom. Sod is laid on top, covered with earth. Drainage is performed in the space between the bottles.
Another alternative method involves the use of a pole. Long branches are laid at the bottom of the trench on spacers made of wooden sticks. The poles should be of coniferous wood, previously cleaned of bark.
The last two described methods of drainage of the site are unpredictable in terms of durability and operational efficiency, but they are optimal options when there is not enough money to lay drainage from pipes or rubble.