Do-it-yourself barrel house. Do-it-yourself barrel bath: all stages of construction. Interesting about the barrel bath: technology and features

It is not always advisable to build a full-fledged steam room in a small summer cottage. When the owners come there only in the summer, or even less often on weekends, then such a building is unprofitable. But what if you want to take a steam bath? The answer is simple! It is necessary to build a barrel bath. It's inexpensive, easy, and fast! How to build it yourself and from what materials is described below.

What is a barrel sauna?

It often happens that a person loves a bathhouse, but there is not enough money, time, space or all combined to build a full-fledged structure. It is in such cases that a barrel bath is built. This design is inexpensive, compact, interesting, original and, in terms of functions, can be the same as a full-fledged one.

It is not known exactly who invented this structure. On this score, there is only an assumption according to which the roots of its origin go from Japan. There people go to a place called sento. They are not really steaming there. Rather, they wash in a hot bath, which maintains a strict temperature of 55 o C. They go there in a company. Visually, the sento resembles a large deep basin or barrel. Before getting into this font, the Japanese wash themselves in the usual way, and then climb in there, relax and talk. Those who do not always have the opportunity to visit the public sento build a smaller analogue at home - furo. The Finns, seeing such a structure, decided to build something similar. They turned the barrel over to a horizontal position and enlarged it several times. This is how a barrel-bath has turned out, in which there is a steam room, a vestibule and a recreation area.

Pros and cons of construction (table)

+	-
Compact size and light weight. It follows from this that construction no capital foundation is needed for it.	The outer coating of the boards requires periodic repairs.
Easy and quick to assemble. For the construction of a small bath three days is enough.	There will not be enough space for a large company to relax.
There is no need to involve special equipment for construction work.	In order to use such a bath in winter, it is necessary insulate thoroughly.
The bath is mobile due to the fact that it has a rigid structure and small mass. If you put it on a trailer, then you can carry it with wherever you go.
Heats up quickly.
Originality of design.

Choosing materials

To make your time in the barrel bath as convenient as possible, pay special attention to the choice of the tree from which it will be built. A stationary bath can be built from almost any material, because inside it you can build a cladding from more suitable raw materials. This option is not suitable with a barrel sauna. For her, you need to immediately select good material.

For example, coniferous trees are completely unsuitable material for the construction of such a structure due to the release of resinous substances when heated, which can burn the skin. The exception is cedar. The numerous healing and aromatherapy properties with which it is endowed are perfect for a bath. The technical qualities of this wood species are also high: the material is not subject to deformation, cracks do not appear on it from temperature changes, does not shrink, is moisture resistant and is not afraid of microorganisms. The variety of colors and textures of cedar is impressive.

Another great option for building such a bath is oak. It has a strong and solid structure, due to which the structure will be durable. Moisture does not destructively affect the oak, but, on the contrary, hardens. The wood becomes more durable. Oak is famous for its deep saturated dark shades, has excellent textured patterns and medicinal properties. The disadvantage of oak wood is its high price. Because of this, it is very rare to find a barrel bath made entirely of oak. More often, separate parts are built from this rock.

The traditional material from which the baths are built is linden wood. Creation of a mild and healing microclimate in the bath is its main advantage. For a long time, with the help of a linden bath, they tried to heal the respiratory system, liver and kidneys. Linden wood vapors have a positive effect on the skin: they rejuvenate and cleanse it. This material does not shrink, it is easy to process. A bathhouse built of this type of wood will warm up quickly and retain heat well.

Aspen wood is also used for the construction of the barrel-bath. In terms of properties, it is almost the same as linden. Their advantages and disadvantages are the same. True, linden is much less susceptible to the destructive effects of moisture, does not deform and much fewer cracks appear on it. Due to its relatively low price, this tree can be called the most popular in the construction of baths.

In addition to the above species, alder, fir, birch wood is also used for the construction of a conventional bath. But these rocks are not quite suitable for the construction of a barrel-bath.

Views (table)

Name	Description
Ordinary Russian bath	Differs in hot and humid steam. You can steam in it with brooms. It usually consists of 2 rooms: a steam room and a washing room. After sitting a little in the steam room and sweating, you can go to wash in the shower. In this design option, it is imperative to think over the water drainage system. So that it does not stagnate, the barrel bath is placed under a slight slope. The stove in it is installed between two rooms. It is equipped with a water heating tank. This tank should go into the shower room. In the steam room there is a grid with stones on which water is poured. They are heated from the firebox. The furnace part of the furnace is located in the washing room. It is better to fence it off so as not to burn yourself during bath procedures. There is not much space in such a ben, so the stove should be as small as possible. The walls near the furnace are insulated with refractory material.
Sauna	It differs in that the air in it is dry. It can consist of one room. Often such a structure is equipped with a font into which cold water is poured. If there is not enough space, then sometimes a bucket is used for pouring water. It is considered a tradition to plunge into cold water after a sauna. It is easier to arrange it than the previous one. The room must be airtight: the doors must be tightly closed, there are no cracks in the floor and walls. The sauna has only a small hole in the roof or wall with a special shutter that can be closed partially or completely. The water is not used in the sauna, so there is no need for a drain. Comfortable benches and a stove with a heating stove are installed in it. Do not pour water on the stones in the sauna. You can drip a few drops of essential oil or herbal tincture. Thus, therapeutic and preventive aromatherapy is created. The sauna can be installed both vertically and horizontally.
Ofuro	Similar to the Japanese sento. Visually resembles a baptismal font. Heated by the built-in stove. It has no roof, but it is used all year round. They put it on a wooden flooring. From the inside, it is equipped with a wooden bench and a stove, which is fenced with a wooden partition so that no one gets burned during the bath procedures. According to Japanese wisdom, the ofura banya combines all four elements: earth, fire, water and air. The wood from which it is made acts as the earth, the fire is the stove. And the creation of complete harmony is due to the water and air surrounding the person in this bath. In it, he relaxes and recovers. Visually, it can resemble a simple barrel or be of an elongated shape. The stove does not have to be installed inside the structure. Sometimes it is placed next to it and pipes are drawn from it, which heat the water inside. This is the safer option. True, so, it takes a much longer amount of time to warm up, and, consequently, fuel consumption increases. Usually they spend 10–20 minutes in it, and then the steamed body must be wiped off with a rigid mitten.

Photo gallery: varieties of barrel baths

Sauna barrel sauna from the inside Another version of the barrel-bath Barrel bath ofuro elongated Barrel bath ofuro Russian bath-barrel

Preparing the material

Choosing the right quality material is the key to building a barrel-bath.

If you plan to process the boards yourself, then purchase them in the following sizes - 4.5–5 centimeters thick, 9–9.5 centimeters wide.
If you do not have special equipment for processing wood, then you will have to order boards from qualified specialists. In order for you to prepare the boards of the correct dimensions, you must first create a detailed drawing plan, which will indicate all the dimensions. To create all the blanks that will ideally fit each other, the master will have to try, because this process is quite time consuming.
With the help of the plan, you can understand not only the shape of the necessary elements, but also their number.
It is necessary to prepare boards that will lie around the circumference of the bath, close the "bottoms" of the barrel, that is, those places where the door and the back wall will be located, as well as wooden stands for the bath. The bars are the latter.
Around the circumference, the barrel-bath is pulled together with iron strips. They become a kind of hoops, like on a simple barrel.
The door and windows must be perfectly aligned so that the tightness of the structure is not compromised.
Purchase in advance the planks for indoor landscaping - floor, benches, etc.
The stove must be insulated from the wooden elements of the structure. Take care of the presence of heat-resistant material.
When designing, find a place to build a small ventilation window.
Think about how and from what material the chimney will be built.
If you are planning to build a Russian bath, then provide for a water drain and a tank for heating the water.
The roof material is chosen depending on what kind of structure the roof has. You can build a gable roof and cover it with a rigid roof, or lay a soft roof on top of the barrel-bath.
Purchase fasteners: screws and nails.
Sometimes such a bath is equipped with a small veranda. If you are planning it, then purchase building materials for its construction.

How to organize water drainage

Such a need exists for a design that will use a lot of water.

Of course, if the bath is used infrequently, then it is enough to make holes in the floor through which the liquid will flow out and go into the soil. But if frequent use of the structure is planned, then the water drainage system must be thought out in more detail. Otherwise, the water may stagnate under the bath, which will adversely affect the bath. The first call will be the appearance of an unpleasant odor. This means that a fungus has appeared under the knowledge, and it begins to rot. After that, the floor begins to deteriorate, become unreliable and, in the end, can fail.

To build the correct water drainage, the barrel-bath is placed under a small slope. This way, the water will drain towards the end of the wash. There, in the floor, you need to make a hole and attach a pipe to it, which will go into the drain hole. To prevent this pipe from cracking due to temperature changes in winter, it must be insulated.

Inside the bathhouse itself, the floor is made in the form of a lattice. This is necessary not only to make it easier to walk. Thus, water will not linger on the surface and the floor will dry out from all sides.

DIY technology and construction stages

When all the elements are prepared, they must be treated with antiseptics, dried and you can start assembling.

Putting the base together

There is no need to prepare a powerful foundation for a barrel-bath. It is enough to put the barrel itself on a special wooden base. For the structure to be reliable, this base must be strong and, it must be installed on a flat surface. It supports the bath above the ground and carries the entire load.

The base is two, three or four wooden elements made of boards 30–35 centimeters wide and 3.5–4 centimeters thick. Their number depends on how long the structure will be. On each element, it is necessary to mark and cut out a recess, which in shape will repeat the arc of the barrel. The lower boards of the bath will subsequently be fixed on them.
Then these stands must be placed evenly apart from each other. One of the stands is located under the entrance to the bathhouse, the other under the back wall. If necessary, build additional stands.
Then, the stands are fastened to each other so that a rigid and even structure is obtained.

Front and back walls

These elements of the bath must be perfectly flat. In the back wall, provide a place where a pair of windows will be located. There should be a door in the front wall. The location of the bars where the boards should be fixed depends on where the windows and the door will be. The bars are attached across the structure.

Assemble a square with equal sides using planks and sticks. Draw a circle from the middle of this square and carefully cut it out with a jigsaw.

On the resulting circles, mark the places where the windows and the door will be. Cut openings for them. If necessary, reinforce the holes made around the perimeter using additional bars.

Cooking boards for the walls

Now place and prepare the boards with which you will sheathe the walls of the barrel bath. Cut grooves in each board at the level where the front and back walls will be installed. Their width should be equal to the thickness of the boards from which the front and back walls are made. The depth of the groove is 0.8–1 centimeters. They will need to install round "bottoms" of the bath-barrel.

In the event that there will be two rooms in the future bath, the grooves must be cut in 3 places. The third groove is made for room partitioning.

Windows and door

As mentioned earlier, doors and windows must close tightly. Therefore, their manufacture is not an easy task. In order not to spoil the whole work, experts advise ordering them from the masters. Otherwise, bath procedures will not have the desired effect.

Putting together a barrel bath

First of all, it is necessary to establish the basis for the future design. It should be on a firm, prepared site with a slight incline. Lead a drain pipe to it in advance. In the future, you will connect a drain to it, which will be installed in the bath.
Mark the middle on the base arcs. The first board is attached exactly here.
Along the entire length of the arc, install the boards on both sides of the first. The grooves made in the boards should become a single groove. This is how the floor of the bath is closed
Now it is necessary to install the front and rear walls in the grooves of the floor. They must enter tightly and be held without support. With the help of these walls, the shape of the future structure is formed.
Further, the boards are attached to the front and back walls. They must be fastened parallel to both sides of the barrel-bath.
When the circumference of the bath is completely covered with boards, the structure must be pulled together with a metal tape. This should be done not in one place, but in several (from 2 to 4, depending on the length of the bath). It is necessary to make holes at the ends of the tapes, pass a bolt through them and tighten them by tightening the nut.
Now install the windows and the door.
The next stage is the construction of the roof. For this, a soft roof such as shingles can be used. And you can cover it with metal sheets, which are laid on top, having previously laid the waterproofing material. Some people build a gable roof. As a roofing material, metal or corrugated board is used.
Then comes the construction of the veranda, if it is provided for by the plan.

We equip the bathhouse inside

Cover the walls and all wooden elements of the bath with linseed oil. It will protect the tree from the damaging effects of moisture.

The arrangement is the final stage in the construction of the bath. Now it is necessary to place those elements in it, thanks to which it will be called a bath.

Make a hole in the floor to drain the water and connect it to the pipe.
Install rigid flooring. To make it easier to clean the room, make it removable.
Make and secure the shelves.
Decorate the walls, ceiling and floor with thermal insulation material where the stove will be installed.
Install the stove and take out the chimney. The place where the chimney exits to the outside must be insulated with heat-resistant material.
Connect the water tank.
If there is a desire, then you can bring the water supply.
Install a shower tray and shower if planned.
If there is enough space, then you can build a small table.
Make the wiring, remembering to properly waterproof its cable part and electrical fittings.
Install a hot tub near the bathhouse, if you wish. You can plunge into it after the body has steamed.
If you plan to use the bath all year round, then build insulation outside so that the heat stays in it longer. This must be done with steam and waterproofing.

Video: building a barrel bath

The construction of a barrel-bath has many nuances, having studied which, you can build this beautiful structure, which in terms of functionality is practically no worse than a stationary bath. It will cost you much less and can be built in a matter of days. Good luck!

What to do if you don't have enough energy and time to build a full-fledged bath? In this case, the principles of modular construction can be applied. It was they who formed the basis of the technology for the construction of a barrel-bath. You can make such a structure yourself, and with proper skill and the availability of tools, even without a partner.

As the name implies, the body of the bath is a cylindrical structure made of planks with a groove connection. To strengthen it, tightening metal plates (analogue of clamps) are installed on the surface. At first glance, the design will ideally match the function of the bath. The inexpensive construction cost, the possibility of purchasing ready-made modular elements and the high construction speed speak for themselves.

However, upon a more detailed analysis, the following disadvantages become visible:

Low thermal insulation of the walls. In winter, heat loss can negate all attempts to increase the room temperature to the desired value.
Small area. Most of the factory models and standard drawings provide for a small dressing room and steam room in the design. Together, their area can be up to 12 m², i.e. in fact, bath procedures can be simultaneously received by up to 3 people.
Water supply and sewerage connection. The implementation of these procedures is difficult, since in winter there is a high probability of freezing of pipes and the formation of an ice plug in them.

If you remember that the premises are planned as a budget option for a bath, you can ignore all these disadvantages. The most important advantage of the design is the ability to transport it, which cannot be done with.

Drafting and selection of materials

First, it is necessary to develop at least elementary project documentation - a drawing of a building and a list of materials for its manufacture.

Now you can find many standard blueprints for a barrel bath. Despite the apparent diversity, they all include the following basic elements:

Base

It is made of boards, the thickness of which must be at least 5-6 mm. At the first stage, a recess is made on each of them, into which the boards will be installed. To strengthen the structure, the edges are upholstered with retaining formwork.

Assembly elements - edged boards with groove connection

It is best to choose a quality material - larch or cedar. Their length should correspond to the overall size of the finished structure. Mounting grooves are made on the surface for the installation of partitions. It is not recommended to divide the component parts by length, as this will lead to a loss of the thermal insulation properties of the structure.

Partitions

Planks are stuffed onto a wooden base, and then cut in such a way that you end up with a round structure. Its diameter should be less than the outer bath by the thickness of the wall boards. If an internal partition and an external entrance are made, space should be left for the doorway.

Additional elements

These include slatted flooring and floorboards. They are also made of wood.

Next, equip the installation site of the structure. For this, any place on the land plot is chosen, but it is recommended to mount the bathhouse on a hill. A small pit is dug up to a depth of 0.5 m and dimensions that exceed the dimensions of the bath by 40-50 cm. A sand-gravel mixture is poured onto its bottom, which is carefully compacted. After the final alignment, you can start assembling.

The bottom row of boards is nailed onto the installed frame. The location of the mounting grooves must be monitored - they must form one common groove. After that, the partitions are installed and secured. Their plane should be strictly perpendicular to the level of the sandy floor.

After that, the rest of the wall boards are nailed. A correction rail is installed between the first and the last. It should be wedge-shaped. With its help, it will be possible to adjust the gap in the event of swelling or thermal expansion of the boards. Further, the entire structure is pulled together with a metal tape. Holes are drilled on the floor surface to remove water. This is done in at least 3 places. This completes the construction of the barrel bathhouse.

At the final stage, the floors, flooring and doors are installed. Particular attention should be paid to safety precautions when installing the boiler. This area must be covered with fire-resistant material. For convenience, holes are made in the wall of the bath for the supply of water and electricity. The resulting structure, if necessary, can be transported in any convenient way - on a trailer or in a truck.

For the construction of a bath room, you can choose the traditional option - cut down a small one or build a steam room using frame technology. The bathhouse looks much more attractive and original - a barrel made by hand from specially prepared boards. Since many homeowners are interested in the method of assembling an adjoining structure, we propose to consider the manufacturing procedure in this article.

Choice of design and dimensions

The building looks like a barrel, not only externally, but also structurally. The structure consists of the following elements:

end walls of a round shape, knocked together from tightly fitted boards, are analogs of the bottom and lid of the barrel;
side walls assembled from longitudinally laid thick boards with special grooves (following the example of a log house);
external ties of steel strip or cable, reminiscent of barrel iron hoops;
stands for horizontal installation of the assembled body on the ground;
elements of the internal arrangement - oven, shelves, partitions with doors (if necessary).

Steam room, washing and dressing room in the form of a classic round barrel

Reference. There are also more complex structures made in the form of a rectangle with rounded corners or an oval, shown below in the photo.

The first step is to decide on the project and the layout of the bath rooms - the future dimensions and basis of the structure depend on this. Consider an important point: the side walls are made of solid boards made specifically for the bath, so the length of the structure directly depends on the length of the lumber.

The design and internal layout of the barrel is developed depending on the selected type of bath and other wishes of the homeowner as follows:

It is not recommended for a beginner who decides to build a bath in the form of a barrel on his own to start with large structures equipped with several internal partitions. Make a one-room sauna 2 m long - if you wish, you can load it on a car trailer and take it to a resting place near the reservoir.

Lumber harvesting

Bars and boards for a bathhouse made in the form of a barrel must be cut from hardwood - aspen, linden, and so on. From conifers, it is allowed to use cedar and larch, which are resistant to temperature extremes and moisture. Pine and spruce, when heated strongly, release resin, whose drops can burn people in the steam room.

Advice. If the choice of wood is limited only to conifers, select boards without knots, which are sources of resinous emissions, for the cladding of the upper part of the hull.

To make a "barrel" type bath, purchase the following timber:

timber with a minimum section of 10 x 10 cm for stands;
a board 45-50 mm thick and 10 cm wide is used for assembling end and side walls;
a wooden door 0.7 x 1.8 m with a box (you can buy a ready-made one or make it yourself from a bar of 50 x 50 mm and boards 2.5 cm thick);
lumber for the manufacture of shelves and lattice pallets.

The number of boards on the end walls of the barrel is calculated as follows: the area of the circle is determined, the resulting value is divided by the width of the product and multiplied by a safety factor of 1.2. Do not forget to add bars - power jumpers connecting the boards to each other during the panel assembly process.

The side sheathing timber is considered to be the circumference divided by the width of the board. Apply a safety factor as the wood must go through grooves and ridges on the woodworking machine.

Note. On sale it is not difficult to find ready-made kits for assembling baths - barrels of various sizes and layouts. But often the quality of these products does not correspond to their cost.

What else will you need in the process of building a round bath:

metal ties - steel cables or strips;
fasteners - galvanized screws and nails;
compounds for external and internal wood processing - antiseptics, varnishes;
materials for the manufacture of the roof - shingles, plywood, beams and roofing (common options are bituminous tiles or corrugated board);
a sauna stove of the corresponding power, calculated according to the volume of the steam room;
chimneys - sandwich;
special lamps and switches for baths, non-combustible cables.

If you intend to use the barrel all year round, it is worth making external insulation. A suitable thermal insulation material is mineral wool; it is not recommended to use polymers.

Wood processing

Since the walls of the bathhouse are joined in a special way - like log cabins, all boards need to be machined with milling cutters on a machine, it is unrealistic to cut semicircular grooves by hand. The developer needs to contact the woodworking workshop and provide sketches with the parameters of the blanks. The exact dimensions of the ridges, grooves and cutter profile are shown in the drawing.

To facilitate further construction work, process the finished workpiece in advance according to the instructions:

Advice. Cover the surfaces of the workpieces that go outside and inside the barrel with different protective compounds. From the inside, apply a special product for baths and steam rooms.

After painting, fold the boards to dry in a stack, laying thin strips between the tiers. How to properly conduct preparatory work, look at the video:

Manufacturing of end walls

As mentioned above, a barrel-bath is made by hand from two (minimum) circular edge elements connected by profiled sheathing boards. Therefore, construction begins with the assembly of the ends of the barrel using panel technology.

Lay 2 support beams on a level surface and start assembling the rear blank wall in the following sequence:

Advice. It is not necessary to tie the blanks into the shield with two long jumpers. Put 4 crossbars shorter and closer to the edge - the product will look more aesthetically pleasing.

When assembling, the groove of each subsequent bar is put on the ridge of the previous one, as the builders of chopped houses do. This connection method prevents precipitation from entering the joint. Fit the boards tightly, use clamps and wedges if necessary.

The front wall is made in the same way, only the door frame serves as the base. Twist it with self-tapping screws from the bars, having previously secured it to the stands with clamps and adjusting the diagonals with a tape measure. To draw a circle, nail a temporary board to the box where the center is located.

After cutting off the excess, sand the ends of both products and install the door. It will not hurt to additionally fix the extreme boards of the wall with long furniture screws screwed into the adjacent bars of the shield. How are the round walls of the barrel - baths made, look at the video:

Bath assembly instructions

The structure is required to be assembled on site - it is rather cumbersome to move. But first you need to make stands - legs located under the extreme walls and partitions. For crafting, make the most of the scrap material left over from the front and back wall assemblies. One of the design options is shown in the photo.

The installation of the bath barrel is carried out in the following order:

An important point. A variant of the traditional Russian bathhouse with a sink is installed with a slight slope towards the rear wall. A hole is drilled at the bottom of the floor to drain the water.

The finished barrel body should be protected from precipitation so that the upper part of the bath is less wet. Here's the recommended budget approach:

Fill flexible wooden planks with nails at intervals of 0.5-0.6 m across the body.
From above, pin sheets of thin plywood to the planks.
Cover the improvised base of the roof with bituminous tiles.

If it is necessary to insulate, the shingles are nailed to the body in several layers - the gap between the plywood and the outer surface of the barrel will increase. Mineral wool covered with a diffusion membrane can be laid there. The procedure for assembling a bath is shown in detail in the next video:

Arrangement works

At the end of the installation, proceed to the internal arrangement of the barrel. The following work remains to be done in the bath:

Make a ventilation hole in the back end, closed by a cover.
Install the oven using a metal stand. Protect the section of the wall behind the stove with non-combustible materials - roofing steel or minerite slabs.
Arrange a chimney from a sandwich pipe by making a hole in the ceiling. How to correctly assemble chimneys, read.
Make shelves and a floor ladder (lattice pallet), attach the elements to the walls.
Lay the electrical wiring, install a bath light and a switch.

Under the barrel - the Russian bath, it is advisable to dig in advance a pit for water drainage through the hole in the floor. There is another way of drainage - connect a flexible pipe to the drain, which is laid to the storm drain or other place.

Conclusion

If you decide to make your own bath - barrel, please be patient and have a lot of free time. The author of the videos presented here spent about 1 month building from scratch. Add in the time it takes to deal with unexpected delays and lack of expertise. There is a way to shorten the construction time - to order a ready-made kit to the craftsmen, and only perform the installation yourself.

Related entries:

Building a bathhouse on a small area is a troublesome business: you need to build a foundation, put a log house, equip a roof. Much simpler and more economical is the invention of our northern neighbors the Finns - the barrel bath. You can build it with your own hands, without the extra costs of paying builders.

The advantages of a barrel bath

Does not require a massive capital foundation; for installation, a sufficiently flat platform with a hard surface is sufficient;
Due to its compact size, the barrel-bath can be placed in a small area;
The barrel bath has a collapsible design, therefore, installation and dismantling, as well as the replacement of elements, can be carried out without the involvement of heavy equipment;
The mobility of the structure and low weight allows the bath to be transported and installed in places of temporary residence: in a camp, at a summer cottage;
Optimal use of interior space is achieved by eliminating corners from the design. The bath is heated very quickly;
Versatility of design - both a wood-burning stove and an electric heater can be installed in the barrel bath, which allows you to get wet or dry steam to choose from.
The original design will allow the bath to become a decoration of any area.

The barrel bath also has disadvantages. The main one is the need to insulate the structure for use in the winter. Roll materials are used as insulation: they do not rot, they have good thermal insulation, but they increase the cost of the bath and increase the labor intensity.

Barrel-bath design

A barrel bath is a room in the form of a cylinder, laid on its side. The diameter, and therefore the height of the bath, is from 2 to 3 meters, and the length can be any, usually from 3 to 6 meters along the standard length of the board. A barrel bath can consist of one steam room or include an additional washroom or shower room, a relaxation room and a veranda. In this case, the design of the bath changes only due to the number of internal partitions. The washroom and steam room can be supplied with water and sewerage.

Materials and tools

To install a barrel-bath on the site you will need:

Profiled grooved board 45 mm thick and 90 mm wide. The length depends on the size of the bath. It is not recommended to take a tongue-and-groove board with a larger width - it will be difficult to join it when laying in a circle;
Edged board 50 mm 200 mm wide;
Metal hoops-ties;
Door and window blocks;
Canopy;
Stove-heater, wood-burning or electric.

Lumber manufacturers offer ready-made kits for the construction of a barrel bath in various sizes. To save material, time and effort, you can buy a ready-made kit and install it yourself.

Of the types of wood for a barrel bath, both conifers are suitable: spruce, pine, larch, and deciduous species. At the same time, it is better to make a frame from coniferous wood, and use deciduous varieties for finishing a bath - they do not tar and do not cause burns.

Installation of a foundation or platform for a bath

The base for the barrel-bath is not required. It can be installed on any level area that excludes wood-to-soil contact. This can be a site lined with paving slabs, filled with concrete or covered with gravel. In the absence of such a site, you can make a concrete base: remove the soil layer to a depth of 15-20 cm, install the formwork, make a ten-centimeter sand cushion, lay the reinforcement and pour concrete. After the concrete has hardened, which lasts up to 3 weeks, the bath can be assembled.

Assembly of a barrel-bath

If you purchased a ready-made kit, you only need to assemble it according to the instructions. Otherwise, you will need to pre-process the lumber.

Manufacturing technology

It is necessary to prepare the base of the bath. A board of 50x200 mm is sawn into pieces equal to the diameter of the bath. Support boards must be installed at a distance of no more than 1.5 meters, so their number will depend on the length of the bath. A groove is cut out in the upper part of the boards, repeating the shape of the bath circle. The width of the rest of the board must be at least 10 cm.
End walls and internal partitions are assembled from grooved boards, fastening them with transverse bars. The bars must be fastened so that they do not subsequently interfere with the installation of door and window openings. In ready-made kits, the end parts are delivered assembled glued.
The grooved board is cut along the length of the bath, the ends are ground. Treat the boards with an antiseptic for a bath.
Support boards are installed at an equal distance from each other. Spread on them the bottom of the bath-barrel from several boards, connecting them in the "thorn in the groove" method. When the boards form a sector of a circle, sufficient for the installation of the end walls, they are placed in the appropriate place and boards continue to be laid around them, completing the circle.
After assembly, the baths are fastened with metal hoops and door and window blocks are installed.
The roof of the barrel-bath can be made either on the rafter system or covered with a layer of waterproofing and soft roofing material. For the device of the rafter system, a bar of 50 mm is used, and as a roofing covering, you can use a metal tile or corrugated board laid on a crate of boards.
If the barrel sauna will be used only in summer, it is not necessary to insulate it. Thanks to its ergonomic design, it warms up in half an hour and keeps the heat for two to three hours, which is quite enough for a small company to steam up.
The assembled bath is treated from the outside with a fire-retardant composition, and from the inside - with natural linseed oil.

Installing the stove

In a barrel bath, you can install both an electric heater and an ordinary metal wood-burning stove. The model of the stove must correspond to the volume of the steam room. During installation, fire-prevention measures must be observed: insulate wooden structures from heating elements using special sheets, and pipe penetration using basalt insulating mats.

Floors and interior decoration

It is better to make the inner lining of the bath and the floors from hardwood boards: they do not heat up so much and make the steam in the bath light, and the air fragrant. The floor is made with a slope towards the water drain, while a slope of 1 degree per meter of floor length is sufficient. To improve circulation, a grid of boards with gaps between them of at least 1 cm is placed on the floor. This will ensure floor heating. The canopy and benches are installed along the walls. The electrical wiring is carried out when assembling the bath, while using a cable in non-combustible insulation and lighting devices of a sealed design.

Today, barrels' baths are a very popular product. The beautiful view of the barrel-shaped bath is mesmerizing. The idea to create a bath in the shape of a barrel came to our country from neighboring Finland. There barrel baths have been popular for many years. Today on the Russian market there is a large number of offers of this product, for every taste and budget. The cost of such a bath depends, of course, on its size and materials from which it is made. In the length of the bath, barrels are made from two to seven meters, and in average they are two meters in diameter. In the short bath, only the steam room itself is placed, and in the large one you can place all the amenities of an ordinary stationary bath: a shower, a rest room, a toilet. For the mobility of the bath, it is installed on a trailer of a light car and is very often used for commercial purposes. All these additional options lead to an increase in the price of the bath at times.

We will analyze and calculate the cost of a barrel bath, if you make it yourself. Take, for example, a barrel four meters long and two meters in diameter, in several versions. Drawings of such a bath can be easily found on the Internet.

Sauna from a barrel board 44 mm thick without the use of insulation

The simplest and most inexpensive option for making a barrel bath with your own hands will be a bath from the so-called barrel board without additional insulation. The barrel board is so named because it has a semicircular groove and a tenon of the same shape and is used to make large barrels. Let's calculate the required number of boards. To do this, let's calculate the circumference of the barrel, which is equal to 2πR. A barrel diameter of two meters means 2 * 3.14 = 6.28 meters. Boards can be used of any width, but most often their size is 15 cm, and taking into account that part of it will go into the groove, we will take 12.5 cm for the working width.And so, we calculate the number of required boards 6280/125 = 50 , 24 pcs. The required number of boards is 50 pcs. There will remain a small gap equal to 0.24 * 125 = 30 mm. It will close when the outer boards are screed, as the diameter of the bath will decrease slightly. The decrease in diameter is due to the fact that a small groove is cut out in the outer boards for a closer fit to vertical walls and partitions. Boards are usually sold 6 meters long, which means that this volume of boards (50 pieces) is enough for two walls and one partition. It must be remembered that the board must be well dried. After searching through the ads on the Internet, we find a pine board with a moisture content of 15% worth 11,500 rubles per cubic meter. There are 22 boards in a cube, which means we need 50/22 = 2.27 m3. Multiply cubes by money and get 26105 rubles for the whole bath. A cedar barrel sauna will cost more, because 1 m3 of cedar boards already costs about 35,000 rubles, and larch about 40,000 rubles. Metal hoops for screed boards must be used in stainless steel. It will be enough to use three hoops for this bath. Their cost will be about 6000 rubles. You can cover the bath with flexible bituminous tiles or polycarbonate. Let's calculate the roof area: 6.28 / 2 = 3.14 * 4 = 12.56 m2. The cost of shingles varies greatly depending on the manufacturer. Let's take an average price of 400 rubles per m2 and get 5024 ruble. Two doors, an entrance and a steam room, will cost 7000 rubles. For the rest room, it is necessary to make benches from any wood, and for a double shelf from hardwood (linden). Lounge benches 500 rubles, for a steam room 3000 rubles. Wooden grates on the floor 1000 rubles. In a barrel bath, it will be enough to install two sockets and two lamps, which must be connected through a separate machine. Electrical equipment 1000 rubles. And finally, the most basic thing, without which a bath is not a bath, is the oven. In barrels baths, wood-burning stoves of not high power are usually used, since due to the lack of nodes in the steam bath, the bath warms up quickly. A Russian stove with a chimney and a water heating tank will cost about 20000 rubles. The place where the stove will stand must be finished with a non-combustible material, for example, asbestos sheets. Their purchase will cost 1000 rubles. The wood outside must be protected from moisture and treated with a special impregnation. Add more 3000 rubles. For the stability of the construction of the bath, the barrels are placed on special stands with a semicircular cut. For these purposes, you can use a board 50 * 150 mm., More 1000 rubles. We will postpone more for fasteners and unaccounted costs 5000 rubles.

Today, the bathhouse is a barrel, four meters long in the basic configuration, is offered to be purchased for 170-205 thousand rubles. Let's calculate the cost of a do-it-yourself barrel bath. We get 79629 rubles for a non-insulated pine bath and 132974 rubles for a non-insulated cedar bath.

Sauna from a barrel board insulated with foil insulation

When insulating a barrel bath, in addition to insulation, it is also necessary to purchase lining, which will have to decorate the walls. Let's calculate the required amount of insulation. The standard width of foil insulation is 600 mm or 1200 mm. The circumference is 6.28 m, the length of the bath is 6 meters, therefore, we need 6000/1200 = 5 lengths of 6.28 m. 6.28 * 5 = 31.4 m of insulation. Insulation of the partitions is also necessary and will be 3.14 * 3 = 9.42 m2, that is, approximately another 8 m of insulation with a width of 1200 mm. As a result, we get about 40 meters of insulation worth 2500 rubles. For gluing the joints of the insulation, foil tape is used ( 350 R).

Calculation of the required number of lining

The working width of the standard lining is 110 mm, the circumference of the bath is 6.28 m, which means that you need 6280/110 = 57 pieces 2 meters long for the steam room and 57 pieces for the rest room. For finishing the steam room, linden wood lining is most often used. It will cost 15000 rubles. Lining for the rest room will cost 5200 rubles.

Bottom line: a do-it-yourself barrel bath from a barrel board with foil insulation will cost 102679 R. pine and 156024 from cedar.

Frame bath

A barrel bath can be built not only from a barrel board, but also using frame technology. A wooden frame is assembled, sheathed from the inside with clapboard, from the outside with a board, and insulation is placed inside the wall. Only a few boards of 100 * 50 mm are required for the frame. Exterior wall board will cost an order 8000 R. and it will need about 50 pieces. When sheathing a bath with an ordinary board, they are laid with a slight overlap on top of each other, therefore, the working width is taken as 130 mm. For the interior decoration of the lining will take the same amount as for the previously calculated options for the manufacture of barrel baths. For wall insulation, mineral wool insulation with foil is used and it will take about 40 m2 ( 6000 rubles). The cost of the frame can be attributed to unaccounted for and additional costs.

Bottom line: a do-it-yourself barrel bath using frame technology will cost 61524