Drainage of the territory. How to make drainage at a summer cottage is the easiest way and something more complicated. Correct creation of a do-it-yourself drainage system for a site on clay soils

Don't want to put up with excess moisture in your summer cottage? And you are doing the right thing. An excess of water in the soil will not bring anything but harm: crop failure, destruction of plantations, boggy areas, destruction of the foundations of buildings. A simple way to get rid of a difficult problem is to set up a drainage system with your own hands.

Reasons for installing a drainage system

If the territory of the land plot is flat, and the soil is fertile and absorbs water, then you are incredibly lucky. In this case, drainage is not necessary.

Drainage of the suburban area is required in the following cases:

The site is located on clay soil.
Low location of the territory.
The country house stands on a slope or at the foot of a hill.
The region where the dacha was built is characterized by frequent and torrential rains and snowfalls.
Groundwater flows less than 3 meters from the surface of the earth.

Excessive soil moisture is judged by standing puddles and vegetation. So, sedge and reeds grow in wetlands.

Once again, make sure of the need for drainage by conducting an experiment. Dig a hole 700 mm deep, and after 24 hours, see if water has collected there. If so, then drainage at the summer cottage is required.

Varieties of drainage systems in the country

The increased humidity in the territory of the summer cottage is due to various reasons. Depending on this, one or another type of drainage is chosen:

Surface - the easiest way to drain the soil. This type of drainage system is designed to protect the site from water, the source of which is precipitation in the form of rain and snow. Install it in areas without sudden changes.

Surface drainage is a collection of trenches excavated along the perimeter of the territory. Flowing into the ditches, water enters the collector installed at the lowest point of the system.

Surface drainage

The external drainage system is divided into two subspecies: point and linear.

Deep drainage is a closed method for draining a land plot. They resort to it in the following cases:

when the country house is built on an uneven surface;
with a close location of groundwater to the surface of the earth;
with clay soil.

A do-it-yourself deep drainage device runs along the perimeter of a residential building and around agricultural buildings.

Preparation for construction work

Drainage is a system of ditches and pipelines. To correctly connect the elements to each other, it is required to make complex engineering calculations and draw up a drainage scheme. You cannot cope with this alone, so call the specialists of the Marisrub company for help.

Taking into account the peculiarities of the soil and landscape, experts in their field will draw up a project diagram and tell you the correct gutter device.

The drainage system diagram contains the following information:

A place on the site where the drainage system begins. This is the highest point in the territory.
The lowest point of the system relative to the collector;
The location of the main and additional ditches;
Dimensions of trenches and pipes;
Name and quantity of consumables;
Installation diagram of pipelines and wells;
The angle of inclination of the trenches.

When starting to install the drainage with your own hands, take into account certain nuances:

The territory of the entire land plot is subject to drainage. Therefore, gutters for buildings and plants are included in a single system.
Material and time costs are inevitable. On average, it takes up to 3 months to set up a drainage system.
Drainage of the territory is carried out in the summer.
The installation of pipes is carried out at a depth below the freezing point of the soil, and the drainage system around the residential building is laid below the base of the foundation.

Surface drainage installation

Making an outdoor drainage system with your own hands is easy even for novice builders.

Installation is simple in execution:

Using the design guide, dig the ditches according to the marked lines. Observe the dimensions: depth - 500 mm, width - 400 mm. So that the walls of the trench do not crumble, they are made sloping at an angle of 30 degrees. Externally, the trench resembles an inverted trapezoid. The main ditches drip with a slope towards the water collection point - a well or a reservoir. Additional branches of the system are carried out at an angle to the main trenches. The size of the slope is from 50 to 70 mm per 1 meter of length.
Check the drainage system. To do this, pour 2-3 buckets of water into the ditches and observe the flow. If liquid accumulates in the area, correct the slope angle.
Fill the ditch with rubble. Coarse material is laid from below, and the top layer forms smaller crushed stone. This is recommended for water filtration.

To extend the life of the structure, they buy plastic trays and put decorative grilles on them. To prevent clogging of the trays, additional sand traps are installed.

Thus, with the help of simple manipulations, you installed an external linear type drainage with your own hands.

Spot drainage is required for localized water drainage. It is installed in places where precipitation is drained from the roof and in areas of plant irrigation.

Installation of deep drainage

The device of a closed drainage system is considered difficult to do with your own hands and economically expensive. To install deep drainage you will need:

Plastic pipes with drainage holes and a diameter of 10 cm for main trenches or 7.5 cm for additional ones.
Connecting elements for the pipeline;
Drainage tank for waste water. Reinforced concrete rings, plastic cans, car tires are suitable as a collector.

Do-it-yourself installation of deep drainage consists of the following steps:

Dig ditches with a slope towards the collector to a depth of 600 mm for clay soil or 900 mm for sandy soil.
Place a 10 cm layer of sand on the bottom of the trench and compact it thoroughly.
Cover the trench with a geofabric so that the edges reach the sides.
Pour 20 cm high rubble and lay the drains on top with the holes facing down. Inspection wells are installed at pipeline bends. They help control the operation of the drainage system and clean it from blockages.
Add more rubble and wrap the geomaterial in a "roll".
Fill the trenches with soil, cover with turf.

Deep drainage is a reliable thing, but the installation is affordable. Therefore, the thrifty owners of summer cottages have found a way out: they replace pipes with a bunch of branches and brushwood, and geotextiles - with moss or sod.

Is not a luxury, but a necessity. Therefore, approach the issue of its installation with responsibility in order to avoid troubles in the future.

One of the main problems of any land plot is an excess of moisture in the soil. As a result, there are such unpleasant processes as stagnant water on the site, flooding of the basement, soil erosion, decay of the roots of trees and shrubs, premature destruction of the foundations of buildings. You can cope with an excess of moisture by arranging drainage on the site with your own hands. By all the rules, the built drainage system eliminates most of the problems associated with an excess of soil moisture.

A drainage system can be created at any site. It consists of pipes or channels located on the territory of the site, wells and system protection elements. Such a system is intended to collect infiltrated and ground moisture, as well as to drain it to a specific place or outside the site.

A do-it-yourself drainage device on the site is necessary in the following cases:

waterlogging of the site. Water entering the soil surface does not have time to be absorbed into the ground, as a result of which puddles appear, and the soil itself loses its porous structure. This is especially true for clay soils;
in the event of dampness or flooding in the basement of the house or in the basement;
if the foundation and walls of the building began to be covered with cracks arising from the heaving of the soil;
if window or doorways are skewed;
washing out the soil from under the paths, paved areas;
if the site is located on a hillside or in a lowland.

Tip: The creation of a drainage system is highly desirable if the groundwater in your area is at a depth of 1.5 m or less.

Types of drainage systems

Depending on the design and the degree of deepening of the elements of the system, there are two types of drainage systems:

1. Surface drainage... It is characterized by the location on a section of a network of channels that remove moisture falling in the form of precipitation. Do-it-yourself surface drainage of a site can be made in two versions:

2. Deep drainage... Such a structure is a system of perforated pipelines laid at a certain depth below the ground level. Do-it-yourself deep drainage on the site does an excellent job with water disposal on clay soils, as well as in the presence of surface groundwater.

Drainage system project preparation

When a plot drainage scheme is being prepared, several nuances should be taken into account, since the operability and durability of the drainage system depend on a correctly executed project.

Pay attention to the following points:

the installation of the drainage system is always carried out last, after the completion of rough construction work. Construction equipment on the site can damage the surface drainage elements;
all other communications should be indicated on the project to combine them with the drainage system;
you need to know the level of occurrence of groundwater in your area;
study the composition and structure of the soil on the site at different depths;
the project must take into account the presence of structures buried in the ground on the site. This can be the basement of a house, a cellar, a basement, a well;
take into account the features of the terrain;
do-it-yourself drainage of a garden plot should be carried out taking into account the location of shrubs and trees;
Consider the amount of precipitation applicable to your area.

What is needed for open and closed drainage

Correct drainage at a summer cottage with your own hands implies the use of certain types of building materials. Different drainage systems will require different components.

1. To create surface drainage, you may need (depending on the type):

storm water inlets;
polymer concrete / polymer sand or, through which water will flow to the places assigned to it;
sand traps used to prevent various debris from entering the system;
metal or plastic gratings that will cover the drainage trays;
the sand from which the gutter bed will be made and the cement to fix them.

2. For the deep system, you will need to purchase:

perforated pipes in which water will collect. It is best to use polymer products. If there are no holes in them, then they are drilled independently. The diameter of the pipes should not be less than 10 cm;
that will serve as a filter element;
fittings and couplings for connecting pipes into a single system;
inspection wells, thanks to which it will be possible to inspect the system and clean it;
collector wells, in which the discharged water will accumulate;
a pump through which water will be pumped out of catchment wells, if such are planned to be built;
sand for arranging the underlying layer;
crushed stone for backfilling and pre-filtration of water.

Note: If you have a shortage of crushed stone, then it is quite acceptable to use gravel. The main condition is that its individual stones should not be more than 4 cm in diameter.

Surface drainage system fabrication

Before you do the drainage of the site with your own hands, it is necessary to draw up a diagram of the placement of all drainage channels. The location of the main (main) channels that go to the collector well or weir is indicated. In addition, additional canals are marked that divert water from individual places where it accumulates. Additional canals slope towards the main canals, connecting with them.

Trenches are dug strictly according to the scheme. Their depth is 50-70 cm, and the width should be about 40-50 cm. Pay attention to the slope of the walls of the trenches. They should be beveled at an angle of about 25 degrees. That is, they are wider at the top;
The bottom of the trenches is rammed.

Tip: The main canals are made wider, since the water flow collected from additional canals will pass through them.

Backfill drainage

a layer of geotextile is laid in the trenches, after which the trenches are covered with rubble. The bottom layer of crushed stone should have larger fractions. Geotextile is wrapped so that soil particles do not fall into the rubble layer;
on top of such a backfill, earth is poured or sod is laid.

Trough drainage

trenches are also dug, but of shallower depth;
sand is poured into the bottom of the trenches with a layer of 10 cm;
if desired, rubble can be poured over the sand;
cement mortar is poured onto the bottom and walls of the trench;
trays and sand traps are installed;
trays are covered from above with protective grilles.

Installation of deep drainage

Such a system is manufactured with the utmost care, since it will be problematic to correct any deficiencies. Do-it-yourself deep drainage of a site is considered a complex and time-consuming operation.

The work is performed in the following sequence:

a plan for laying drainage lines is drawn;
trenches 50 cm wide and 80-100 cm deep are dug. The slope of the trenches is about 3 degrees towards the drain;
the bottom of the trenches is covered with sand (about 10 cm), which is compacted;
geotextiles are laid on top of the sand in such a way that its ends rise above the soil level;
crushed stone is poured into the geotextile layer. Layer thickness - about 20 cm;
perforated pipes are laid on the crushed stone;
pipe sections are connected to each other;
a collector well is being prepared. He settles down at the lowest point of the site;
pipes are led into a drain well, from which water will be pumped out or drained to a lower level;
the laid pipes are covered with rubble from above. It should not reach the ground level;
the geotextile is wrapped, as a result of which the pipe and rubble around it find themselves in a "cocoon";
from above, the entire structure is covered with soil.

The drainage system will transform your site, relieve it of excess moisture, and restore the natural state of the soil.

Video

How to properly drain the site with your own hands, see the video. It considers the option of not open drainage, but deep drainage.

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A high level of groundwater is quite common in suburban areas, especially those located in lowlands. This factor has almost no effect on garden plants, which cannot be said about buildings, trees and septic tanks located on the site. The solution to the problem is to drain the site. It is important to know how to properly drain the area with your own hands. This is what will be discussed in this article.

Why do you need drainage on the site

The very first thing that needs to be done after buying a suburban area is its thorough research, and special attention should be paid to the height of the soil water. There are a number of ways to find out this information: by talking to locals, asking previous owners of the site, or ordering an analysis from a firm that specializes in such research.

However, the main aspects can be determined independently. For example, if clay prevails in the soil, then drainage is an obligatory element of the site: the clay is practically waterproof, and good rain can literally flood the entire area of the site or its individual parts. In cases where the site has a slope to one side, drainage is also needed so that water does not accumulate in one place, thereby undermining the ground.

When it becomes clear that the installation of drainage should be mandatory, then you can proceed with the selection of a suitable system. This process will depend on many nuances.

There are two main methods of diverting water from the territory:

open drainage;
closed drainage.

Open drainage

Further, how to properly drain the site using an open method. Open drainage implies the presence of a network of trenches on the site, which are located along the perimeter of the flooded area. Through these trenches, water is diverted into a drainage well, where it will not interfere with anyone or anything. An open drainage system does not require costs and is easy to implement: anyone can make it, even if they have no experience in performing construction work.

Usually ditches are made 50-60 cm deep and with the same width. A very important condition is the presence of a constant slope towards the water intake, since the water moves along the trenches by gravity. The walls of the ditches should be cut at a 30-degree slope to make it easier for water to get into them.

As a result, water from all the grooves of the section enters the latter, which should be wider and deeper. This last section connects directly to a drainage well that diverts water to the receiving water. The last stage of creating an open drainage is testing the system, for the implementation of which it is enough to pour a certain amount of water into the ditches. If the slope is observed, the water will evenly pass through all sections of the system, without stopping or stagnating. If this does not happen, then the dug trenches must be corrected until the problem is completely eliminated.

Decorating an open drainage system with your own hands

Of course, a patch of ditches is completely incapable of pleasing the eye. Consider how to properly drain the site so that the system looks harmonious. All pits need to be masked, which will not only improve the aesthetic qualities of the structure, but also add strength to it, which automatically extends the life of the drainage.

Often, crushed stone acts as a material for decorating open drainage. Large stones are laid out on the bottom of the ditches, and from above all this is covered with stones of small fractions. If desired and the availability of funds, the top layer can be covered with marble chips or a waterproof material of similar properties.

How to make drainage on the site if there is no desire to spend extra money on decorating the system, but the need for camouflage still remains? You can use a method called fascine drainage. The essence of this method lies in the fact that fascines are made from dry branches, which are placed in ditches.

To create fascines, a large amount of brushwood is collected, from which it is necessary to make bunches with a thickness of about 25-30 cm, and thick branches should be placed in the center of the bunch. Naturally, brushwood should not lie in the fascine at random: the thick edges of the branches should be on one side, and thin ones on the other.

When the fascines are ready, you can start laying them on the trestles pre-installed in the ditches. Goats are crossed stakes that are installed in each ditch along the entire length of the drain. When stacking fascines on trestles, the thick ends should point up.

The first step is to dig trenches into which drains will be laid in the future.

The depth of the trenches is a variable value, which mostly depends on the soils lying on the site:

on clayey soils, the trench should have a depth of about 0.6-0.8 m;
if the main soil on the site is loam, then the depth of the trench will vary from 0.7 to 0.95 m;
the presence of sandy soil necessitates digging a trench 1 meter deep.

It is also important to understand that they are not laid on the very bottom of the ditches, so their depth can be another 0.2-0.3 m deeper. In addition, for high-quality operation of the system, the pipes must lie deeper, so that the freezing soil does not affect the functionality of the drainage in any way. In the event that the drainage system is made to protect the house from flooding, then the depth of the trenches should be at least 30 cm greater than the depth of the foundation. See also: "How to do the drainage of a site with your own hands - types of drainage systems, device rules."

Observance of the slope is mandatory, but in the case of pipes, it is a little easier to achieve. The extreme and lowest point of the system should be a drainage well or a water intake, and the choice here will depend on the preferences of the site owner: sometimes it is preferable to put a container at the end of the drainage and collect water there, so that it can then be used for personal purposes.

Selection of pipes for drainage

Drainage pipes are usually laid in a herringbone pattern. Two auxiliary pipes are inserted into the main line, thereby creating a drainage network that works throughout the entire site.

In drainage systems, pipes made of ceramics or asbestos cement were previously used. Today on the market there is a much wider range of pipes, the most popular of which are plastic, which can be either solid or perforated. As a result, it is best to give preference to corrugated plastic pipes, which demonstrate a very long service life.

When choosing pipes and designing a drainage system, the composition of the soil must be taken into account. In the case of stony soils, filtering material is not required for drainage, but in all other cases, geotextiles will have to be used, in which the drains are wrapped.

The need to use geotextiles is due to the presence of various debris and sand in the soil, which leads to pollution and siltation of the pipeline. If you do not want to wrap the pipes with filter material, you can independently purchase finished products with geotextiles.

How to properly drain

How to make drainage on a site with your own hands? First, ditches are dug, taking into account the selected dimensions. The slope along the entire length of the trench should be at least 7 cm by 1 m. A building level is used to check the slope. The bottom of the trenches is laid with a layer of sand about 10 cm thick, and the same layer of rubble. Having tamped the resulting pillow, you can start laying and assembling the pipeline. The assembled pipes are wrapped with geotextiles and covered with a layer of rubble and sand about 20-30 cm thick. The remaining space of the trench can be filled with soil. The soil must be poured with a margin, since the earth will sag slightly. In more detail, all stages of the construction of the drainage can be seen in the photo.

Conclusion

Self-installation of drainage is not such a difficult task, which is quite within the power of any person. Now that the question of "how to drain the site" is highlighted, the problem will be solved even easier. Knowing the order of performing basic actions will help to do such work without any problems and financial costs.

The article will consider in detail surface drainage at a summer cottage: the easiest way to organize a drainage system and its features, the rules for the selection of materials and preparation for work. There will also be an analysis of step-by-step instructions and recommendations for arranging a sewage system for those people who have no experience in this area, but want to independently organize protection for their home and surrounding area from erosion by rainwater.

The use of drainage systems for the disposal of storm water solves many problems. Such designs eliminate the problem of excess moisture at the foundation of the house, preventing the development of putrefactive processes and the appearance of mold. In addition, such systems save the territory from flooding by storm water, as well as melt water, the level of which increases during the spring melting of snow.

Note! If you do not lay drainage pipes on the site or do not organize a system of surface ditches, you will have to constantly pump out water from the basement of the house in rainy weather. This is especially true for buildings built on loamy soil types.

How to make drainage on a site with your own hands: choosing a system

Drainage systems are conventionally divided into two large categories: surface and deep. If the installation of a deep system may require certain knowledge and the help of specialists, then the installation of surface drainage at a summer cottage can be done independently. This type of sewage can be called the simplest way to solve the problem with excess moisture on the site.

Note! There are certain restrictions regarding the installation of surface and deep systems. Some conditions do not allow the organization of this or that type of sewage system. Be sure to carry out a preliminary analysis of the conditions of the area of the proposed construction.

In order to develop a preliminary drainage scheme for the site, its territory should be inspected and key points identified. All factors that may have an impact on further work on the preparation of a drainage project for the site are considered.

To draw up a diagram, the following information is required:

A plan of the territory indicating all buildings, the nature and density of plantings, as well as the boundaries of the site.
Topographic data that reflects the features of the relief (not needed if the site has a flat surface).
Dendroplane (the scheme is necessary if there are a large number of plantings on the territory or they are supposed to be planted, since the plants are dependent on water).
Road-path net (scheme of future paths and paved areas that need drainage).
Communication system diagram.
Hydrological data (level of water balance of the territory).

On the one hand, hydrological data have an impact on how to drain the suburban areas and are therefore very important. On the other hand, loamy soil types have the same structural structure, so this information may not be needed.

Surface drainage system on site: device

Surface drainage systems collect spring melt and rainwater, after which they remove it outside the territory. The installation of such structures is especially needed for those summer cottages where stagnation of moisture or large accumulations of moisture is observed.

Most often, such conditions are formed if:

clay or loamy soil is located under an interlayer of fertile soil (such types of soil are considered waterproof or waterproof);
the territory has a low-lying nature of the location, for example, at the foot of the hills;
the slope of the surface on the territory is partially zero, in other words, the surface is perfectly flat, which is why the water cannot move independently under the influence of gravity;
the site has zones where the soil from time to time is oversaturated with water, for example, places where plants are watered.

Note! In addition, it is possible to install surface drainage in an area with a high groundwater level. In this case, the upper layers of the soil can be flooded with a high level of precipitation.

Surface drainage schemes for a land plot in general terms are as follows:

water collection points;
trench ladders leading from the catchment points;
a trench that connects together a system of ladders;
a drainage well, where a common trench leads (instead of a well, a ditch leading to a ditch or a natural reservoir, or a ditch specially dug outside the site can be used).

Types of surface drainage of a site with a high groundwater level

In terms of design features, two types of surface water drainage systems are distinguished:

point, installed in areas where water accumulates;
linear - whole networks of drainage pipes collecting water for its further transportation to storage.

How much will it cost to drain the site (price of materials for a point system):

Drainage system element	Name and parameters	Price, rub / piece
	S'park, round	290
	PolyMax Basic (300x300 mm), square	490
	PolyMax Basic (400x400 mm), square	990
Lattice to the storm water inlet	S'park, round	100
	PolyMax Basic (300x300 mm), square, slotted	490
	PolyMax Basic (300x300 mm), square, cellular	500
	PolyMax Basic (400x400 mm), square, cellular	900
	PolyMax Basic (300x300 mm), square, snowflake	1100
	PolyMax Basic (400x400 mm), square, slotted	1300
Components	Partition-siphon PolyMax Basic (300х300 mm)	70
	PolyMax Basic basket (300x300 mm)	110
	Edging D380, circle, cast iron	1100

Helpful advice! Experts recommend combining both of these systems to achieve the most effective result.

Drainage device on site (cost of materials for a linear system):

Drainage system element	Options	Price, rub / piece
Drainage tray	S'park (70 mm)	70
	PolyMax Basic (100 mm)	490
	PolyMax Basic reinforced (200 mm)	1190
Lattice	PolyMax Basic (100 mm)	180
	PolyMax Basic (200 mm)	820
	PolyMax Basic (300 mm)	2505
Trash box	PolyMax Basic (100 mm)	1300
Trash box	BetoMax Basic (100 mm), concrete	1705

Features of point drainage of the site with your own hands on clay soil

The point-type drainage system does an excellent job of protecting certain areas of the territory from excess moisture. Before making the drainage of a site on clay soil, as a rule, problem areas are identified, which can be:

the location of the gutters leading from the roof of the house;
door pits;
entrance area;
terrace;
points where the analysis of water intended for irrigation of vegetation is carried out.

To arrange the drainage of the site on clay soil, the following elements are used (prices for them are posted in the tables above):

storm water inlets;
sedimentation tanks equipped with containers for collecting large particles and debris;
trench ladders transporting water to the storm sewer system;
dampers that prevent the backflow of water and the ingress of large particles of debris into the system.

Features of the storm drainage system on the site: how to make a drainage system

The drainage system of the linear type consists of gutters that are buried in the soil. Through these channels, water is moved from the site to the outside. When arranging such a drainage in a summer cottage with your own hands, you should remember that the liquid is discharged by gravity.

On sale you can find gutters made of various materials:

polymer concrete;
plastic;
concrete.

Helpful advice! To reduce the cost of purchasing consumables, you can make your own gutters. At home, you can make concrete elements using special pouring forms.

On top of the gutters, gratings are placed that perform a protective function. The material for their manufacture can be plastic or metal (cast iron, steel). These elements are removable.

How to drain a site based on the key elements of the system:

gutters fit into pre-equipped trenches;
sand traps are installed in the areas where drainage systems and other similar places are located;
the gratings are fixed on the gutters.

Do-it-yourself installation of a linear drainage system on a site is performed if:

the angle of inclination of the surface is more than 3 ° (in such conditions, water can be discharged by gravity, which without drainage can simply wash out the fertile soil layer);
it is necessary to drain water from the base of the house in conditions of prolonged rainfall;
it is necessary to divert water from the relief slopes of the territory;

household structures are located in the same plane with the surface of the summer cottage or below this level;
there is a need to protect the territory of the summer cottage, as well as entrances and paved paths.

Turnkey site drainage installation: work cost

Water can destroy the foundation of the house, destroy some types of plants, wash the fertile soil from the site and even provoke a landslide. Drainage of the site with drainage in combination with other protective measures avoids all these problems.

List of protective measures:

Implementation of seamless waterproofing of the base of the house.
Protection of the waterproofing layer from damage.
Installation of a drainage system at the foundation.
Organization of additional insulation of the waterproofing layer at the base.
Construction of insulated blind area structures.
Installation of turnkey plot drainage.

All items from this list (except for the last one) are performed even at the stage of building a house. It is better to entrust these works to professionals. The device of a drainage storm system can be done independently, but first it is worth figuring out what the cost of drainage of a site, performed on a turnkey basis by professionals. This will allow you to make the final decision as to whether it is worth laying drainage pipes with geotextiles or limiting itself to surface mounting of the system, which you can do yourself.

Organization of drainage of the site (price of professional services):

The name of the scheme of work	Depth of pipes, m	Drainage pipes diameter, mm	The nature of the drainage layer, m	Price, rub / rm
Superficial	0,4	110 (geotextile)	0.3 (crushed gravel)	1000
Rational	1	110 (geotextile)		1600
Convenient (1 revision well)	1	110 (geotextile, double-walled)	0.4 (gravel crushed stone) + 0.1-0.15 (sand)	1800
Eco-friendly	1	110 (coconut fiber)	0.4 (crushed gravel)	1550
Uncompromising (1 inspection well)	1	110 (Wavin, geotextile)	0.4 (crushed granite)	2300

Installation of drainage at their summer cottage: the price of elements for the system

Regardless of whether the installation work is done independently or with the assistance of specialists, you must buy all the consumables necessary for this procedure before installing the drainage system.

Helpful advice! In order to save money, it is recommended to buy drainage wells and other consumables in advance. The main thing in this case is not to be mistaken with the calculations. If you are not sure, use the advice of a specialist to draw up a preliminary estimate. The average cost of developing a project for the drainage system of the site is 15,000 rubles.

Drainage well prices:

Well type	Options	price, rub.
Prefabricated (made of concrete rings, diameter 1 m). Complete set: pump, plastic hatch, pump retainer, drainage (no more than 10 m)	3 rings	36000
	4 rings	40000
Inspection (made of plastic pipe, diameter 0.315 m). Package contents: plastic hatch, plastic bottom	1m	6600
	1.5 m	6900
	2 m	7700
	2.5 m	7900
	3m	8950

The average price of cast-iron gratings for storm sewers as part of storm water inlets is 3,500 rubles. Waste basket and walls can be included in the package.

How much does it cost to lay drainage pipes in the country (price of services):

Pipe type	type of instalation	Price, rub / rm
Flexible	Drainage trench	500
	Shallow deepening (0.5 m)	700
		1200
Hard	Drainage trench	700
	Shallow deepening (0.5 m)	950
	Deepening below the freezing level	1600

The table shows that the cost of laying pipes for drainage of the site depends not only on the level of deepening, but also on the type of material. Working with rigid pipes is much more difficult. This nuance should be taken into account when choosing products.

Drainage installation technology around the site: how to make the system correctly

The simplest technology, describing how to properly drain a suburban-type plot, implies the rejection of the use of gutters.

Note! In this case, the surface system is performed in a non-standard way with minimal costs, since there is no need to purchase ready-made parts in stores. In the process of work, materials at hand are used.

Do-it-yourself technology for creating surface drainage of a site:

Trenches should be dug along the perimeter of the area that needs drainage. They should be positioned taking into account the slope of the surface. If the site is horizontal, this slope must be formed independently. The optimal parameters for calculating storm sewers: the width of the trenches should be 40 cm, the depth - 50 cm. The minimum angle of inclination of the surface (towards the removal of moisture from the site) is 30 °.
The trench system must be connected, and then taken out into a ditch or into a storage well. In this zone, you can organize a small artificial reservoir, for example, an ornamental pond, and plant there plants that love moisture.
The system is checked for functionality. To do this, water is poured into the trenches and the direction in which it flows is checked.
An embankment is formed at the bottom of the trenches. First you need to organize a layer of coarse gravel, after which there is a layer of fine gravel.

For the drainage system, pipes with a filter made of

Protection of the foundation of the house: the sequence of work of the storm sewer device

The technology of arranging a drainage system to protect the foundation involves the use of a linear structure:

In areas where liquid is drained from drainpipes leading from roofs, storm water inlets are installed. For these elements, you need to dig holes in advance, which are 10 cm higher than the depth and width of the water intake funnel. The grate should be positioned 3 mm below the soil level.
The funnel is installed on a concrete base so that there is enough space to remove the grate and clean the water intake if necessary. It is also not recommended to place this element too high, otherwise the liquid will be sprayed on the sides and there will be no sense from the drainage.
The water inlets are connected to the gutters for transporting water. To do this, you need to indent from the foundation of the house by 1 m and dig a trench. Its depth is selected so that the gutter can be installed, and there is still 10 cm of headroom left on top. The same amount of space should be in width. Do not forget about the slope of the drainage pipe towards the well.

Helpful advice! In the process of installing gutters, which are also placed on a concrete pad, it is recommended to use a building level. The sides of these parts can be fixed with concrete for reliability.

Next, the grilles are installed, and the end cap should be on the last gutter of the system. Place sand traps and wells on the corner parts of the storm sewer, after which you can start connecting all the elements of the system together. At the joints, the use of bituminous mastic is allowed, which will exclude leaks.

The system is completely ready, it remains only to fill it with soil, but so that a gap of 3 mm is preserved between the surface and the grating.

Gutters made of plastic are lightweight and inexpensive. However, they are subject to deformational changes under the influence of the pressure exerted by concrete and soil. To exclude damage to the material, it is recommended to fix the drainage grates "on the shore".

The water drainage system from the site by open drainage often freezes in winter. So that in the spring the storm sewer can do its job without delay, the pipe must be attached to the sand trap. Thanks to this, the system will not freeze too much.

Using the technology described earlier, you can drain around the perimeter of walkways. Paved areas and paths on the site also need to drain excess moisture, since water has a destructive effect on tiles and other elements (curbs, flower beds).

After the rain, the vegetable garden and garden turn into lakes? The easiest way to get rid of dirt and puddles is to make drainage at your summer cottage. Moisture that accumulates in depressions and flows down slopes, eroding the soil, is not only an aesthetic problem. Over time, a constant excess of water will lead to depletion of the fertile layer, damage to the root system of trees, erosion of the foundation of the house and constant flooding of the basement and outbuildings.

The site is located on a slope - in this case, you have to divert all the water flowing from the neighboring summer cottages.
The relief is uneven, with depressions and rises.
The soil is oversaturated with moisture, there is a constant high level of groundwater.
Dense solid ground prevails, poorly absorbing water after heavy precipitation, snow melting.

Types and methods of performing drainage in the country

Depending on the reasons for the swampiness, they choose the type of arrangement for the drainage of the site in the country. There are two ways to drain soil:

Surface water diversion.
Deep drainage - correction of the groundwater level.

Benefits of performing full drainage

The surface method is used when flooding occurs on the site only after heavy precipitation, during the thaw season and melting of the snow cover. There are several options for arranging wastewater disposal. If the construction of a house is not planned in the country, and the land is used only for seasonal work, you can do without complex drainage systems and large investments. It is not difficult to make the simplest channels for drainage, if you take into account the basic rules: the choice of the direction and depth of the trenches, the trajectory of the laying.

Flooded area after the thaw

Deep drainage of groundwater is necessary to protect buildings - if water is not diverted from the outer perimeter of the foundation, then in the season of rising groundwater levels, the basement and basement rooms will inevitably be flooded. Eroded soil around the house will weaken the foundation structure. In addition, in the area with swampy rocks, there will be difficulties with the arrangement of landscape structures. To drain the deep layers, the closed drainage technique is used with the discharge of the runoff outside the suburban area.

A site with difficult terrain and the need for a combined drainage system

To ensure complete protection of the home and the personal plot, combined projects are being developed with the simultaneous installation of a deep drainage network and surface gutters that connect at water collection points.

Surface option: construction features

To determine which of the surface drainage methods in the country will allow you to get rid of dirt on the site, you must:

Analyze the number of places where water accumulates after a heavy rain - perhaps it is enough to make only a few drainage points.

Determine the direction of natural flows so as not to be mistaken with the trajectory of ditching.

Find a place to drain excess water. If there is no body of water nearby, a drainage ditch between sites, or a deep ditch, you will have to equip a sink for drainage.

Surface channels on site

Types of surface drainage systems

With your own hands, it is advisable to equip only surface country drainage of a point or linear type - these systems do not require the use of equipment, and you can plan the ditching sites yourself:

Point outlet. The system of local collection of excess moisture is the installation of receivers or the arrangement of drainage ditches directly in places where liquid accumulates: in recesses, under drain pipes, in the lowest places of the site, at points of height difference. Multiple rainwater collection points can solve the problem if the main area is not flooded after rain.

Linear system. This method involves the coverage of the entire area of the summer cottage with a system of connected trenches to drain the liquid. The linear scheme is implemented with the arrangement of a closed or open trench system. The advantage of this method is uniform drainage of the soil throughout the entire territory.

Installation of a linear drainage system in the garden

Open system for removing moisture from the ground

The easiest and cheapest way to make drainage at a summer cottage is to equip an open linear surface drainage system. Drainage ditches are dug at an inclination to a relatively shallow depth - up to 50 - 70 cm. The width of the trenches varies: from the narrowest at the beginning of the branch, to widening by several tens of centimeters in the direction from the beginning of the groove to the connecting line. The largest width is dug out at the point of discharge. The walls of the trenches are formed at an angle to the bottom - the angle of inclination should be up to 30 - 35 o.

To strengthen the walls, use:

Remains of building materials: slate, brick, concrete slabs.

Walls reinforced with slate sheets

Perforated textiles - agro and geotextiles. Special material that does not rot. Plants germinate through small holes, which by the root system are able to strengthen the soil on the walls and protect the groove from shedding.

Protecting the gutter with soft material

Concrete gutters, metal mesh, stone laid on mortar.

River stone groove: easy to clean

How to make the most economical drainage in the country? Leave the channels completely open by backfilling them with rubble, gravel or a mixed gravel-sand mixture. This low-cost solution is perfect for areas where soil erosion problems are infrequent.

Backfill surface drainage groove

There are many options for decorating open channels: ready-made trays made of plastic, metal, concrete with decorative gratings.

Closed drainage network

It is much more difficult to make a closed drainage at a summer cottage without the involvement of specialists. A closed system is a network of perforated pipes, laid with the obligatory observance of technology, a slope along the entire perimeter of the site.

Closed system diagram

To complete the work, it is necessary to accurately plan the installation locations of the pipes - in case of an error, the entire branch will have to be redone. Therefore, craftsmen use laser rangefinders and special equipment to calculate, with millimeter accuracy, the required depth and slope of the pipeline.

Execution of work: selection of direction of installation

Before installing the perforated pipes, the dug trenches are strengthened and a gravel bed is created. Textiles must be installed under the backfill. For different sections of the system, pipes of different diameters are selected.

Installation of a perforated pipeline

In addition to the costs of pipes and earthworks, it is necessary to calculate the number of revision tanks. Perforated pipes will have to be washed, and in order to get to the junction, wells are installed along the line with access to the surface.

Wells are an essential part of a closed system

The advantage of a closed exhaust system is that it is completely invisible. The pipes are dug into the ground, and after the end of the work, there are no open ditches on the surface. It is advisable to equip a closed drainage during the construction of a house. In a summer cottage, which is used only for seasonal growing of vegetables, it is enough to make a simple, economical open system.

The easiest way to drain the soil in the country: do-it-yourself surface drainage

How to drain a wet area? Draw a simple diagram and dig open channels connected to the drain. As a receiver of waters diverted from the site, you can use:

A roadside ditch or ditch.
An artificial or natural reservoir located below the dacha.

Output of an open branch to the receiver pit

A gravel bottom pit dug at the lowest point of the site.

A plastic tank dug into the ground.

Preparation of materials and marking of the site

The materials and tools that are needed to make drainage in the country with your own hands are in every house:

Shovels, picks - in case you have to dig in hard rocky ground.

Wheelbarrows and buckets for transferring and transporting the extracted clay.

Pegs and line, or tape - to mark the site.

From building materials you will need: remnants of brick, slate; gravel of different fractions and sand. The choice of decorative materials depends only on the owner's desire: you can buy gratings to protect the ditches from pollution, or simply fill the trenches with stone in the form of paths.

Drainage channel in the form of a rocky path

How to determine the correct trajectory and location of ditches without special tools? It is enough to observe the natural direction of the streams after a heavy rain or to look closely at the footprints on the clay in the spring. Traces left by running water are ideal for digging ditches. It is advisable to make a preliminary markup on the diagram.

Scheme for planning the laying of drainage channels

Ditching: Rules for Excavation

The most time consuming stage is earthworks. With open surface drainage, the depth of the ditches should be about half a meter. Width - from 40 to 80 cm, up to 1 m - at the point of discharge. Before starting work, the selected trajectory is marked with pegs with a stretched fishing line.

Grooves are dug along the marking line

Digging trenches begins from the top point of the site. The excavated soil is stored on one side of the ditch. The usual plastic construction film laid on the edge of the trench will greatly simplify cleaning after the end of the work. The excavated soil can be used for leveling and filling the beds and flower beds.

The side walls must be formed at an angle. On an inclined surface, the liquid flows faster to the bottom, in addition, the bottom is not washed out due to the impact of falling streams. The finished grooves must be compacted: the bottom and walls must be even and solid.

Dig the line to the junction with the receiving tank.

Arrangement of trenches and drainage

There are 3 options for arranging ditches:

Soft - with laying a layer of soil on top of the backfill.

Gutter - a concrete gutter without a cover is placed in the prepared trench.

Backfill - backfill is carried out to the surface level.

To extend the life of the drainage system, it is necessary to strengthen the walls and equip the bulk cushions to facilitate the outflow of fluid. A perforated film or a special geotextile fabric is laid in the trench. Water flows freely through the holes, partially absorbing into the soil.

Channels with a protective foil

At the bottom, a layer of gravel or crushed stone of different fractions is necessarily poured: at the bottom - a large one, as it approaches the surface - a fine fraction. Between the layers of the backfill, it is advisable to install flow accelerators from scrap materials that will serve as a pipe. They use cut plastic bottles without a bottom, large pieces of brick laid with gaps, bundles of branches and brushwood up to 30-50 cm long.

Simple materials that can be grooved instead of perforated pipes

The finished trench can be left open, or covered with a decorative lattice. Mesh metal covers will protect the channel from clogging with branches and leaves. If the film is installed with an overlap, then a layer of turf with lawn grass can hide the groove from prying eyes.

Mesh-reinforced main trench

Video: country drainage

Video lesson on how to plan and make drainage in the country with your own hands, without investing in a complex system.

You can take a moderate amount of water from the site yourself. But if it is planned to build a country house at the dacha, a simple open system is not enough to drain the swampy area, it is better to turn to specialists. A system with a combination of a deep and surface network is complex in planning and arrangement, and an error in calculations can lead to the fact that water remains on the surface of the soil.