Drainage pipe is flat how to lay. How to make drainage in a summer cottage with your own hands - a step-by-step guide to draining with photos and videos. Surface drainage of a summer cottage

Need drainage works? Would you like to exclude flooding of basements and the foundation of a private house during heavy rains or melting snow? Need to protect the entire territory of the land from ground, rain, melt water? You have come to the right address - the company "Modern Drainage Systems" provides a full range of services related to the organization storm sewer, site drainage, foundation waterproofing, etc.

Our specialists carry out the selection of the necessary materials for the installation of drainage systems, laying sewer pipes, as well as drainage and storm pipelines. We provide professional assistance in cases where water ceases to be a vital necessity, but becomes a serious problem!

What is a drainage system?

In order not to repeat the mistakes of homeowners who from year to year face the problem of protecting the site from excess water or removing moisture from the foundation of the house, drainage and storm system– a complex of interconnected devices (pipeline, drainage pump, well, etc.), ensuring the removal of surface or groundwater from the earth.

drainage system it is used not only in private land ownership or gardens, but also in agriculture, in parks, in the construction of roads, the construction of warehouse complexes, the arrangement of sidewalks, football fields, etc. Therefore, it is better to provide for the installation of a drainage and storm water disposal system at the design stage of any object.

Annular drainage of the building foundation:

(applies if there is no basement or basement)

Name of service	Unit.	price, rub.
Foundation Ring Drainage Design	—	is free
Ring drainage of the building foundation - DEPTH up to 1 m	m.p.	from 1400
Device for circular drainage of the building foundation - DEPTH up to 2 m	m.p.	from 2600
Circular drainage of the building foundation - DEPTH up to 2.5 m	m.p.	from 3800
	m.p.	from 1800
	m.p.	from 2950

Wall drainage of the building foundation:

(applicable in the presence of a basement or basement)

Name of service	Unit.	price, rub.
Foundation wall drainage design	—	is free
Device for wall drainage of the building foundation - DEPTH up to 1 m	m.p.	from 1400
Wall drainage of the building foundation - DEPTH up to 2 m	m.p.	from 2600
Device for wall drainage of the building foundation - DEPTH from 2 to 3 m	m.p.	from 3800
The device of rotary inspection wells (depending on the diameter)	m.p.	from 1800
The device of the final catchment well (depending on the diameter)	m.p.	from 2950

Storm sewer:

Sewerage:

Is drainage important?

It is necessary to solve the problem of draining groundwater, melted water, rainwater from the underground elements of the structure, especially when building a house with a basement, so that the walls do not get wet, as this can lead to flooding or destruction of the entire building structure.

Sometimes even high quality waterproofing works unable to cope with dampness, the appearance of mold, fungus in the basement floors of the building or in the basement. Professional builders and organizations with many years of experience in installation work related to waterproofing concrete structures buried in the ground clearly state that no type of waterproofing will effectively protect concrete from water without the use of a drainage pipe.

To prevent a catastrophe during the freezing of frozen soil, which increases in volume and can provoke wall shifts, foundation ruptures, cracks, drainage pipes are laid around the house - this is the so-called wall drainage, or throughout the entire territory - the protective surface drainage of the site. In addition to extending the life of the foundation, sidewalks, garden paths, an important function of proper drainage is to save the root system of trees and plants from decay.

The cost of installing drainage usually includes a visit to the site by a specialist, preparation of a project, calculation of the consumption of materials, delivery of equipment, services of qualified installers. final price drainage works depends on the complexity of the construction activities, foundation depth, as well as the need for additional services such as mounting foundation waterproofing, basement drainage, lawn device and paving slabs.

The main stages of laying drainage

Almost every site has a risk of flooding, especially during long snowmelt or in areas where there is a high location of groundwater. There is no need to risk real estate and the peace of the family, but it is necessary to place around the house below the level of the foundation drainage pipes, drainage trays, pump, storm water inlets, as well as drainage well made of durable and reliable polymer materials. The installation process takes place in the following sequence:

– A trench is dug and compacted, which is then covered with geotextiles;
– Drainage pipes made of plastic with perforation and a Typar geotextile filter are being laid;
– The drainage pipe is backfilled with crushed stone and the crushed stone contour is closed with geotextile, then coarse sand is backfilled over the geotextile;
– Inspection and rotary wells are installed to control the operation of the entire system;
- Next, a final drainage well is mounted, which, as a rule, has a larger diameter than rotary inspection wells, a pump is installed in it for pumping drainage and storm water;
- Trays with gratings, storm water inlets are mounted, which are connected to separately laid pipes for a storm drainage system;
- At the final stage, the pipeline is backfilled first with sand, then with soil.

To drainage works provided not only water drainage, but also your peace of mind, they must be carried out by qualified craftsmen using high-quality and proven materials. Comfortable landscaping of the territory, excluding trouble during the spring flood or heavy rain, is provided by the company with 10 years of experience "Modern Drainage Systems".

Why choose us?

If you want to get reliable water protection for your home, an excellent storm water drainage system, a high-quality sewer network while optimizing the water balance in your area, then take advantage of the advantageous offer of Modern Drainage Systems.

Our range of services includes:

— Selection and sale of drainage and drainage equipment;
– Drafting of a drainage system, storm system and sewage;
– Providing drawings and a full package of technical documentation;
— Any foundation work, including drainage, insulation and waterproofing;
– Installation of site drainage and turnkey foundation;
— Maintenance of drainage systems;
— Storm sewer(design, device, service);
— Free consultation;
- Warranty for all types of work and materials.

The indisputable advantages of cooperation include a professional approach to any problem, which is quickly and efficiently solved on an individual basis. The main rule of our work is the constant quality of components for drainage at the best prices. Regardless of what kind of work you need to drain and improve drainage systems: wall drainage, foundation circular drainage or site drainage, we provide the full range of necessary materials, as well as consulting, accompanying and service activities.

In cooperation with the company "Modern Drainage Systems" you are not only guaranteed competent protection of the foundation and your site from excess water, but also ensured a quiet life in a landscaped area. Now the arrival of spring will be a joy, and no snow or rain can tarnish the reputation of your foundation!

Moisture, contrary to popular belief, cannot always be considered a plant's best friend. Too much water is bad for most of them. Excess moisture is also not useful for buildings, it has a destructive effect on building materials. That is why it is very important for every owner of a suburban area to divert excess water from their territory. The solution to the problem will be a drainage pipe: almost every home craftsman can do the installation of such a design with his own hands.

What is drainage and why is it necessary?

The newly minted owner of a suburban area often has to work hard before he can fully enjoy his vacation in the bosom of nature. Most of the land plots suffer from waterlogging.

Having built a house on such a plot, one may encounter the problem of destruction of the foundation and difficulties in arranging the personal plot. To remove excess moisture, drainage is installed - an artificially arranged watercourse in the soil. It is a special system of underground channels or pipelines. The water that enters them is collected in special storage tanks or discharged outside the site.

Drainage allows you to protect the foundation from destruction and create comfortable conditions for growing plants.

Practice shows that the first warning signs that make you think about installing drainage are:

a large number of moisture-loving plants on the site;
the presence or periodic appearance of groundwater in the basements and cellars of nearby buildings;
the appearance after the rain of a large number of poorly drying puddles.

However, the absence of these signs does not mean that there will be no problems with waterlogging. It is best to invite a specialist and accurately determine the degree of moisture content of the site and, if necessary, start arranging drainage.

Methods for arranging a drainage structure

When thinking about how to lay a drainage pipe, you need to understand that there are several ways to install drainage structures:

Trench with gravel and sand. Drainage of a closed type, which is a groove dug in the ground, filled with a layer of rubble, on top of which sand is laid. For the best effect, they can be made in the form of a “herringbone”, while the central trench, to which the secondary ones are suitable, should be made with a slope directed towards the point of water discharge. The distance between the drains is selected depending on the composition of the soil. On clay, it should not exceed 10, loam - 20 and sandy - 50 m.
Open drainage. The easiest to use and cheapest option. It is a groove, half a meter wide and about 70 cm deep, dug along the perimeter of the site. The sides in the drains are made beveled, at an angle of about 30 °. Water is discharged from the system into a common gutter. The main drawback of the design is an unaesthetic appearance, somewhat spoiling the landscape of the site.
Construction using perforated piping. The most common technology for laying drainage pipes. Deep drainage designed to drain high-lying groundwater. Ceramic or asbestos-cement pipes with holes drilled into them are laid in the ground. A more modern option is perforated plastic or ready-to-install drainage systems that can be found on the market.
Drainage trays. This is a surface drainage that allows you to remove moisture from the site that has fallen on it in the form of precipitation. For the arrangement of the structure, special trays are used, which can be made of modified concrete or plastic. The trenches are led from water intakes to the place of discharge, while a slight slope is necessarily observed, of the order of 2-3 °. Parts are installed in small grooves, their sides should be at ground level. From above trays are surely covered with decorative lattices.

If the area is located on a hill, open drainage ditches are dug across the slope. Thus, it will be possible to "intercept" the water flowing from above.

The disadvantage of an open drainage system is considered to be a somewhat unaesthetic appearance of the structure.

This is the most popular drainage system for owners of private plots and country houses.

Drainage trays are used to remove excess moisture that enters the site in the form of precipitation.

Installation instructions for perforated pipes

Before proceeding directly to the installation, it is necessary to perform calculations and select the appropriate material.

For design work, you will need a site layout and special data, which are best requested from your local land office:

seasonal groundwater level;
soil characteristics and soil structure;
the amount of moisture falling in the form of precipitation and flood waters.

Using this data, specialists will carry out the necessary calculations and determine the required trench depth and pipe diameter.

The most affordable solution for arranging the system are plastic parts. The extremely simple device of the drainage pipe assumes the presence of two layers of polyvinyl chloride or polyethylene, which allows them to serve at least 50 years at a fairly significant depth. In addition, the two-layer construction promotes self-cleaning, preventing blockages. As a prevention of clogging of the holes on the pipe body with soil particles and small debris, they are wrapped with a coconut fiber cloth or geotextile before laying.

The order of work is as follows:

The installation of the drainage system begins with the marking of the territory, which is carried out according to the scheme drawn up in advance. Trenches are dug along the marked lines, the depth of which is determined by preliminary calculation. To determine the width of the structure, 40 cm is added to the outer diameter of the prepared parts. When carrying out work, you need to remember about the required slope of the drainage pipe, which is usually at least 3 °.
At the bottom of the prepared trench, a crushed stone-sand cushion is mounted. To do this, first, a layer of sand 10 cm thick is covered. The material is well compacted. Then a layer of crushed stone 20 cm wide is laid out on top of it.
Pipes wrapped with geotextile are laid on the prepared base. You can cut the part of the required length with an ordinary mounting knife. To connect the elements, special couplings are used. In order to prevent freezing of the system, it is recommended to lay drainage pipes deeper than the ground freezing level.
After laying the pipes, their slope is checked again. To do this, you can use the usual cord stretched along the pipeline.
In places where trenches turn and in areas where the slope angle changes, special manholes must be equipped. They are equipped with lids to prevent clogging of the structure. These structures are necessary for the control and periodic cleaning of the drainage system.
At the last stage, backfilling is carried out, that is, all actions are performed in the reverse order. A layer of crushed stone is poured over the pipe, followed by sand, and the last layer of soil, which was taken out when digging a trench. Sod can be laid on top.

The output of the system is carried out in an open reservoir or rain sewer. In any case, a check valve is mounted at the end of the outlet pipe. If it is impossible to organize such a withdrawal, a so-called prefabricated well is equipped. As it fills, it is necessary to pump out water from it.

Perforated drainage pipes are laid on a sand and gravel cushion

During installation, you should try to avoid common mistakes that lead to a violation of the functionality of the drainage. These include:

Insufficient depth of trenches, which can lead to a violation of the water balance of the site.
The use of pipes that are not suitable for the type, which leads to a quick failure of the system.
Incorrect drainage angle, which disrupts the functioning of the structure and can lead to serious problems with the water regime on the site.

Practice shows that laying drainage pipes with your own hands is a completely feasible undertaking. The only thing that must be entrusted to specialists is the calculation of the system and the drawing up of a pipe laying scheme. Everything else is pretty easy work. When performing it, it is very important to follow the instructions, carefully monitoring the key points: the slope of the system, the reliability of the pipe connection, the organization of manholes, etc. A well-equipped drainage system will serve for many years, preventing excess moisture from damaging the foundation of the house and ruining the site.

Drainage will protect the underground part of the house from inevitable destruction, protect plant roots from rotting, and get rid of stagnant puddles. Numerous advantages are somewhat leveled by the price, the size of which is justified by carrying out a large amount of work. However, they can be completely or partially done by hand, agree?

We will tell you how to lay a drainage pipe with your own hands, what system components still need to be installed. For those wishing to independently make drainage, we offer reliable information about the principles and rules of its construction. The information provided to you is based on regulatory requirements.

The article describes in detail the varieties of the drainage system. The organization technology is described, recommendations are given on the choice of pipes and related materials to ensure the removal of groundwater. A selection of photo and video guides are attached to help interested visitors.

Drainage is an expensive system, even if you do not have to pay for the services of specialists and the owner of the site is ready to do all the work on his own. Therefore, you should figure out how much it is generally needed.

The need for a system device cannot be determined “by eye”, because groundwater can lie close to the surface, which becomes a real problem only during floods or heavy rains.

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In linear versions, a need arises if you need to drain the areas around buildings, paths, entrances, ennoble the local area or remove excess moisture from the garden.

Such drains are shallow ditches where water flows and then moves to special receiving tanks, storm sewers or to an off-site discharge point.

The choice and features of the installation of elements of drainage systems depend on the expected load on the system: the density of the soil, the amount of water that enters the drains. If the load is too high, it is worth choosing designs from the most durable materials.

Point collectors must also be accurately calculated and designed in advance. They serve to locally collect water, but are connected to a similar linear system of ditches or pipes.

Through the indicated drainage channels, the collected water is discharged in the same way into the collector well and further into the gutter or pond. Therefore, work on the installation of systems with point water inlets is not much different from systems with linear options.

Open systems are very simple to implement and cheap, but they spoil the landscape with an unaesthetic appearance. Another disadvantage is that the walls of the ditches have to be constantly corrected, because. they crumble under the influence of moisture, and the system ceases to perform its functions (water stagnates at the bottom of the trenches and does not move to the place of discharge).

When planning drainage, you should decide on the type of system. You need to consider whether it will be open or closed. In the first case, ditches with oblique walls are dug for the convenience of water flow. The width of such a trench is usually 0.5 m, and they dig it to a depth of 0.7 m (+)

This option allows you not to trim or strengthen the walls of the trenches, but it is suitable for areas with relatively low humidity, because. the carrying capacity of the ditch is greatly reduced.

The use of polymer and concrete trays in the construction of open drainage greatly facilitates and speeds up the work. In order to ennoble the landscape and protect the systems from clogging, such open systems are covered with cast-iron gratings.

For the arrangement, special perforated pipes are used - drains laid to the depth of the foundation. They are laid in pre-formed ditches, covered with material with excellent filtering properties, gravel, fine gravel or FMS.

To control the operation of the system and carry out periodic cleaning, install. They are located at each turn and after 20-25 m of the linear route of the drainage pipeline.

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Drainage systems are laid not only for the removal of groundwater, but also for its uniform distribution, for example, in areas with a slope

Close to the surface, systems designed to drain the soil are arranged. The depth of their laying does not exceed 40 cm

Normalization of moisture in the soil-vegetative layer does not require laying the system to a depth below the standard growth of the root system of cultivated plants

Drainage of the site for draining the soil and vegetation layer is arranged if loam or sandy loam is opened under the PRS. Rocks with low filtration properties do not allow water to pass through and contribute to its long-term stagnation in the soil.

The simplest version of drainage, designed to drain the soil and vegetation layer, is to simply replace the soil with a rock with high filtration (gravel, crushed stone). In such cases, laying the drain is optional.

A drainage pipe is laid much lower if it is necessary to protect underground structures from groundwater

A drainage system to protect the foundation is arranged 20-30 cm below the depth of the foundation. So it is necessary that the drain completely collects groundwater and prevents capillary suction

When installing a drainage system designed to protect the foundation from groundwater, it should be remembered that in addition to it, the foundation of the house needs reliable waterproofing.

Drainage system to stabilize soil moisture

Surface drainage system

Drainage for draining the cultivated area

Drainage circuit for arranging the lawn

The easiest option for surface drainage

Drainage for the protection of underground structures

Foundation drainage depth

Waterproofing in addition to the drainage device

When determining how to properly lay a drainage pipeto protect plants from excess moisture, you can use the average values. As a rule, the optimal depth is 0.6-1.5 m.

Moreover, for flower beds, lawns, beds, it does not exceed 0.9 m, and to protect the rhizomes of trees, it is necessary to dig as deep trenches as possible, especially if the site is located on peat soils.

Types and parameters for selecting drainage pipes

Of all the materials for the manufacture of pipes, polymers are the most popular. Their undeniable advantages are durability, resistance to chemicals and smooth inner walls that do not stick to dirt. Stormwater and groundwater drain into the pipeline and freely move to the water collectors by gravity.

In the underground drainage device, plastic pipes with factory or home-made perforations are most often used. Less commonly used ceramic or cast iron pipes are too heavy for self-laying.

Another advantage of polymers is their relatively low cost, since ready-made drainage is inexpensive, practical and durable.

When choosing drainage pipes, it is better to give preference to two-layer products with stiffeners. Due to the even distribution of the load, the pipeline lasts longer and is more reliable. Plastic drainage pipes do not rust, rot and prevent the formation of sediment on the walls (+)

An excellent solution is a pipe in a geotextile sheath. The outer material filters water while retaining dirt. Due to this, the pipelines do not silt.

An alternative to factory-made drainage pipes is conventional sewer pipes. Of these, you can easily make the components of the drainage with your own hands. To do this, simply drill holes in the products, and wrap them with geotextile fabric on top.

In addition to a perforated drainage pipe, a closed system will require inspection and rotary drainage wells, a collector well, geotextiles and crushed stone or similar backfill material with high filtering properties

If a local drainage system is required, pipes with a diameter of 100-200 mm can be dispensed with, and if it is necessary to remove moisture from a large area or there is too much water, it is better to choose products with a diameter of 300-400 mm. The best choice is a special drainage pipe with a filter shell.

Pipeline laying technology

When arranging drainage, the relief of the site is of fundamental importance. The system must be built in such a way that there are no problems with the outflow of fluid into the ditches. If there are no results of geodetic studies, you should independently draw up a diagram, marking on it the places where rainwater drains.

When creating a circuit, you need to be careful, because. errors will cause drainage to be ineffective. According to the finished drawing, they outline how to lay and tilt the drainage pipe and where to install the water collectors. After checking the data, markup is carried out on the ground and work begins.

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We develop a trench for laying a drainage pipe. Its depth is 30-50 cm below the sole of the base

After the mechanical development of the trench, we finalize the bottom, taking into account the slope towards the drainage of the collected groundwater system: a collector or absorption well

We fill the bottom of the trench with a 10 cm layer of quarry sand and ram until a dense base is obtained for the drainage pipe

We wrap the drainage pipe with geotextile. Ideally, it is better to lay the non-woven fabric in a trench, fill it with gravel, on which to lay the drain, and then wrap it with material

We lay the drainage pipe with observance of the slope along the rammed bottom to the installation site of the absorbing well

From two concrete rings we assemble an absorbing well - an unloading point without a sealed bottom, instead of which a soil filter is arranged in it, which passes water into the underlying soil layers

A high level of groundwater can bring a lot of trouble not only to garden plantations, but, first of all, to the foundations of buildings. As a result, the house can give uneven shrinkage and, as a result, a violation of the geometry of walls, roofs, windows and doors. In addition, the constant moisture of the walls causes the formation of fungus, which can lead to a deterioration in the health of those living in the house.

If you know that on your site groundwater is located close to the surface of the earth, then you should take care of a drainage system that will drain excess water outside the site, keeping the foundation of the house intact, your health and the health of your loved ones, as well as plants in garden.

Making a drainage system on your own is not very difficult, you just need to know the technology for the production of work.

What is drainage?

The very concept of "drainage" means the removal of excess water in a natural or artificial way from the soil surface or from the ground. Drainage is used both in construction and in agricultural technology to drain storm or groundwater using a system of channels, drainage wells, wells, laid pipes and other devices.

Drainage must be done if:

the groundwater level has been raised on the site,

In the old days, when plastic materials were not produced, asbestos-cement, ceramic or steel pipes were used for the drainage system. To get a complete drainage system, it was necessary to manually drill holes in such pipes. Not only was such work not easy, the holes eventually became clogged with soil, which negated all the efforts spent on arranging the drainage system. Currently on sale there is a large selection of different pipes for drainage.

For the installation of a drainage pipe, it is better to purchase a corrugated plastic pipe, in which there are ready-made holes. So that the holes in the pipes are not clogged with soil or silted up, they can be wrapped with low-density geotextiles, which cost mere pennies.

Corrugated Drain Pipe

What are the advantages of plastic pipes:

First of all, plastic differs from all other materials in durability. The service life of such materials is estimated at 50 years or more.
Plastic pipes, regardless of the material (polyvinyl chloride, polyethylene, and others), can be easily processed with improvised tools that are in every home.
When installing a drainage system, plastic pipes can be laid to any depth.
The assembly of pipes is easy, thanks to their design features and the availability of a variety of connecting elements for sale.
And finally - plastic pipes are several times cheaper than metal or ceramic ones.

Drainage system device

The laying of drainage pipes begins with the preparation of a site plan and a project, which should indicate:

pipe locations,
length and depth of trenches,
installation of drainage or manholes,
a method of draining water into a storm sewer or other container for collecting water.

The project should indicate the level of groundwater occurrence, the level of soil freezing, the type of soil on the site. It is unlikely that anyone is able to do such a project on their own, therefore, in order for the drainage system to work flawlessly, you need to turn to specialists who will competently make all the calculations. And the technical work itself is quite within the power of the owner of the house.

Before laying plastic drainage pipes, a trench should be prepared according to the design dimensions. The trench is dug wider than the diameter of the pipe by 40-50 cm, if the depth of freezing of the soil is small and the worker can fit in such a trench.

With a large depth of soil freezing, it is more convenient to dig when the width of the trench allows you to turn around with a shovel. There are no exact instructions here, everyone digs a trench in the way that is more convenient for him. The main thing is that the slope from the house to the drainage wells or other place of water collection is observed.

The technology of laying drainage pipes involves laying several drainage layers of sand and gravel at the bottom of the trench. But first, geotextiles are lined on the bottom and walls of the trench, only after that is sand is added, then crushed stone. And already a perforated plastic pipe is laid on the crushed stone layer, which is poured in the reverse order - crushed stone, sand, geotextiles and previously selected soil. The use of geotextiles protects pipe openings from silting.

The slope when laying drainage pipes must be maintained within 3 degrees throughout the entire length of one branch of the drainage system.

In some cases, the drainage system is arranged according to the “herringbone” system - this is when more perforated pipes are connected to the main drainage pipe, like branches extending from the tree trunk.

Laying drainage pipes according to the herringbone principle

In addition to laying drainage pipes, it is necessary to arrange manholes that allow, if necessary, to clear blockages and monitor the water level in the drainage system.

Inspection wells should be located no further than 50 meters, and on the bends of the drainage system or a sharp change in the slope of the pipes, they must be arranged without fail.

All collected water - from the ground or rainwater, must be discharged either into a storm sewer or into a special reservoir, from where it can be used for irrigation or other technical needs on the farm.

If water is to be drained during the installation of drainage pipes into an open body of water (river, lake, pond) or into a storm drain, check valves must be installed at the ends of the drainage pipes.

Causes of malfunctioning drainage system

During the installation of the drainage system, the technology or sequence of work could be violated. For example, at first crushed stone was poured, and then sand was poured to the bottom of the trench, and as a result, the holes in the pipe could clog.

Or maybe the drainage filling was not done at all. Or the slope was broken when laying pipes, as a result of which water cannot drain by gravity into a drainage well or into a storm sewer.

When draining water into an open reservoir, check valves were not installed or for some other reason.

Even if you did everything right, and your drainage system is working flawlessly, you need to remember that any device needs periodic inspection and maintenance, which consists in measuring the water level in manholes, cleaning the drainage system from accumulated debris and dirt. Inspections are recommended to be carried out 4 times a year, i.е. every season.

Laying a drainage pipe - how to do it yourself?
The drainage pipe acts as a drainage system and protects the foundation of the building from destruction. We will understand the device of this design, how to properly install

Drainage sewerage is a system of perforated pipes, called drains, functioning as one unit with the sewer system of the house and the septic tank.

At the same time, very often drainage sewers are made to drain effluents from the bath, because there are no large fractions here and such water, which has passed through a layer of crushed stone and sand, can be passed into the ground without worrying about the state of the environment.

Storm drainage can also be provided. It is necessary to divert rainwater from the soil surface. In this case, trenches will be laid around the house, equipped with water receivers coming from the drain.

How does a do-it-yourself drainage system work

Having understood what a sewage drainage system is, you should consider the features of its design.

There is nothing complicated here.

It is a perforated pipe laid in a trench on a drainage layer.

The role of the latter can be played by different materials - depending on the characteristics of the soil, the level of groundwater, as well as the degree of pollution of the drains.

Gravel, sand and geotextiles are commonly used for drainage.

In combination, they provide additional wastewater treatment, prevent clogging of sewer pipes with silt.

Gravel, sand and geotextile

According to a similar principle, the drainage system of the site is equipped with one's own hands in cases where it is necessary to provide protection from an excessive rise in the level of groundwater and flooding of the site.

Also, such a system will be a good method of organizing storm sewers that drain water from downpipes, preventing flooding of the building foundation. The only difference here is the lack of drains.

Drainage system of the site without drains

In all these cases, you should carefully consider the last moment - where the water will flow from the drainage pipes or trenches.

If the runoff from the house must be discharged exclusively into a septic tank or a filtration well, then groundwater and rainwater can flow not only into a special collector, but also, for example, into a pond, any other body of water.

It can be used to equip a birdbath.

Schemes of the drainage system of the site

How to make a drainage pipe from a sewer pipe

The drainage pipe for sewerage is a conventional perforated pipe.

You can buy it in any store.

But, if you have a PVC sewer pipe for arranging an external sewage system, then you can make a drainage pipe out of it, and with your own hands, because sewer and drainage pipes differ only in the presence of holes in their surface.

Drainage pipes for the site

There are two ways to implement this idea. The first is with a circular saw.

You will need to do the following in this case:

take DISC SAW. The disc must be equipped with carbide tips,
using this tool, make many cuts in the pipe, distributing them evenly over the entire surface of the product. Their length should be 10-20 cm. It is necessary to ensure that there are not too many cuts, because then the pipe will lose its strength,

Circular saw for cuts in plastic

The work will look like this:

Holes in the drain pipe with a drill

take a drill and make a large number of holes in the pipe,
it must be taken into account that the diameter of the hole must be less than the size of the crushed stone fractions used for arranging drainage. This will prevent clogging of the drain pipe. The optimal hole diameter is 5 mm. The distance between them should be a maximum of 10 cm.

Drainage pipe with holes

We looked at how to make a drainage pipe from a sewer. Which method to choose, you can decide based on the tool available.

How is sewage drainage done?

Thinking about how to properly make drainage for sewers, you should consider a step-by-step instruction that can clarify the situation and give an idea of the sequence and features of the work being done.

The drainage will be equipped as follows:

Drainage Installation Instructions

We dig a trench of the desired length and depth. It is recommended to observe its optimal depth of 1.2 meters. If the groundwater level in the area is not high, you can make a trench 1.5 meters deep. Be sure to take into account the slope - 1-2 cm per meter of pipe,
we fill the bottom of the trench with a layer of sand, carefully compact it, observing the slope. For such work, you need to choose sand with a grain size of 1.5-1 mm,
instead of sand, you can fill up a layer of gravel. The size of the fractions should be 20-40 mm,
we cover the trench with geotextiles necessary to prevent silting of the pipe. Its edges should go outside the trench,

Drainage installation and pipe laying

Backfilling with crushed stone and wrapping with geotextiles

This is a fairly common drainage system.

A trench of the required width is dug here, its depth will be 1-1.5 meters.

In the same way, the bottom is equipped with a sand cushion, only several drainage pipes are laid on it parallel to each other with a distance of 0.7-1 meters.

This is what the drainage filtration field looks like

Of course, you can do without geotextiles, but it is still recommended to use this material. It prevents silting of the drainage pipe, extends its service life by an average of 4-5 years.

Types of slope of the drainage system

It is also important to know that the slope of the sewer pipe will depend entirely on its diameter.

The standard diameter indicators are 110 mm, and the slope is 1-2 cm per meter of the product.

If the diameter of the drainage pipe for the sewer decreases, then the slope should increase.

There is a regularity here: the larger the diameter of the perforated pipe, the greater its throughput.

Drainage system and how to make a drainage pipe from a sewer
Drainage sewerage is a system of perforated pipes, called drains, functioning as one unit with the sewer system of the house and the septic tank. At the same time, very often drainage sewers are made to drain effluents from the bath, because there are no large fractions here and such water, which has passed through a layer of crushed stone and sand, can be passed into the ground without worrying about the state of the environment.

The drainage pipe is the main component of the drainage system, which in turn is a structure designed to collect and drain filtered rain, melt and groundwater. Rain and melt water causes unwanted groundwater rise, increasing the destructive impact on building foundations and landscape design elements.

The use of drainage pipes effectively protects the house from damage associated

with high humidity, mold and frost formation, prevents flooding

cellars, the formation of puddles and spring ice on footpaths, prevents rotting of garden plants due to excess moisture in summer cottages and garden plots.

Drainage pipes are corrugated perforated pipes with stiffeners and a large number of rational small holes located in the wave cavity (corrugations). The stiffening ribs make it possible to evenly distribute the soil pressure along the entire length of the pipe and perceive additional loads that arise. These pipes are designed for laying to a depth of 0.7 to 6 meters. The stiffening ribs make it possible to evenly distribute pressure throughout the pipe and absorb additional loads that arise. Drainage pipes are designed for laying to a depth of 6 meters. The presence of a large number of small holes of a special profile per linear meter of the product contributes to a faster collection, passage and removal of excess water from the drained area.

The presence of a large number of optimally located small holes of a special profile along the entire length of the pipe contributes to a faster collection, passage and removal of excess water from the site. Due to the low weight - (a coil 50 meters long and an optimal diameter of 110 mm weighs only 25 kg.) - installation and transportation are carried out without special

Also, one of the advantages of these pipes is their high corrosion resistance in aggressive groundwater. The service life of a drainage system made of polymers, with proper operation, is 50 years or more.

Efficient drainage prevents groundwater from rising too high at the base of the house, protecting the building from damage caused by moisture, mold and frost. If it is required that the drainage work in the cold season, it should be laid at a depth exceeding the freezing depth of the soil. Specialists

believe that drainage is almost always necessary for central Russia.

Drainage flexible corrugated pipes made of polyethylene with a filter are used for

the creation of melioration systems (drainage), to protect buildings or sites from excessive

moisture, seasonal groundwater rise. Drainage is an extensive system

of interconnected pipes located around or into the system, water flowing down the ground enters.

Each pipe (specialists call it a drain) has a network of holes (perforation) on its walls. They are at the same distance from each other. Drainage can be laid both before and after waterproofing the foundation and basement, but strictly before the general backfilling of the outer side

foundation. The water collected through pipes enters the collector (transport network), and then into the water intake well or into the water intake (river, stream, ravine). Sometimes water from a water intake well is pumped out by a pump into the nearest ditch, ditch or sewer well. As a result of well-executed drainage, the groundwater level decreases, fertility improves, drained soil is easier to prepare for sowing, and such land also accepts fertilizers better.

DRAINAGE- this is a system of underground channels, called drains, through which groundwater is drained from building structures and its level is lowered, as well as land is drained for the cultivation of agricultural products. Water from the drainage network is discharged outside the drained area into the water intake. Thus, a drain is an artificial watercourse in the soil for collecting and draining groundwater (usually underground). Drainage systems are used in agriculture, forestry, landscaping and construction projects.

Where are RUVINIL drainage systems used? ?

Construction

The foundation of any building structures, even at a shallow depth of 1.5–2 m, is exposed to groundwater. The composition of groundwater includes components that have destructive properties. Even waterproofing does not protect in this situation. A high level of groundwater leads to the destruction of building foundations, flooding of basements, the appearance of fungal formations, etc. When constructing roads, sidewalks and open flat areas, it is also necessary to take into account the characteristics and degree of soil moisture.

Land reclamation and agriculture

A high level of groundwater leads to rotting and freezing of fruit trees, the occurrence of fungal diseases of plants and waterlogging of the area. If it is necessary to drain swamps and waterlogged areas, it is effective to use polyethylene corrugated pipes, which provide a quick and cheap laying of the drainage system. The drainage system, mounted even on flat areas with the help of a drainage pipe, removes the backwater of groundwater and significantly reduces their level.

How to lay drainage pipes?
How to lay drainage pipes? – informational article

Modern drainage pipes are light in weight, affordable and easy to install, for their laying there is no need to use heavy equipment, and also to hire over qualified specialists, it is enough to follow the phased work and our recommendations, and the installation of drainage pipes is carried out in the following sequence:

trench preparation

A drainage (filtering) layer of fine crushed stone of a fraction (grain size) of 10-20 mm with a height of at least 15 cm is poured into an open trench.
The drainage layer is planned with a constant slope, at least 10-15 mm per 2 m of length. For control, you can use a water level and a cord or level fixed on a two-meter rail, at one end of which a boss is fixed that fixes the size of the slope. In this case, the design slope will be reached when the bubble is in the center of the level.

Pipe laying

Laying installation of drainage pipes starts from the upper mark to the downstream well (reservoir).

The pipeline is assembled from separate drains (perforated pipes) and fittings (adapters, bends, tees, plugs) and is laid on a planned drainage layer.

In the case of using ceramic and concrete pipes, the gaps in their joints (5-15 mm) should be used as water inlets, protecting them from flooding with turf laid down with grass, moss or other fibrous materials.

The connection of asbestos-cement pipes should be carried out on couplings with sealing rings.

The finished pipeline is sprinkled with a drainage (filtering) layer of crushed stone of a fraction of 10-20 mm, at least 20 cm high above the top of the pipe, without breaking the connections and without changing the created slope.

On top of the drainage layer, you can lay a layer of harvested turf with grass down. The trench is backfilled with permeable soil such as sand. to the surface of the earth, and a fertile layer of earth is laid on top.

Installation of drainage pipes:

drainage (filter layer) from crushed stone of fraction 10 - 20 mm, 20 mm thick,
drainage pipe,
permeable soil (sand) - 90 - 100 mm,
fertile layer of earth (sod) - 10 - 15 cm.

The appearance on the market of new products for drainage, such as corrugated perforated pipes made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) with filters for various types of soil, has greatly simplified the work. Such pipes with stiffeners make it easy to install drainage pipes, they evenly distribute loads throughout the pipe, which makes their service life almost unlimited.

PVC drainage pipes are laid to a depth not exceeding the freezing level, in accordance with the depth of the existing foundation, installation of drainage pipes performed in the above sequence. Filters are used to protect the drainage system from silting. A pipe with a geotextile filter is designed for sandy and sandy loamy soils. A pipe with a coconut fiber filter is laid in peat bogs, clays and loams.

In addition to these materials, freshly cut brushwood without leaves and bunches of fascines connected from it, poles 6-10 cm thick, flaky (flat) stones, cobblestones, bricks can be used as drainage.

Drainage along the fence can be arranged in separate sections. A ditch 2.5-3 m long, 0.5 m wide is dug to a depth of 1-1.5 m and gradually filled with household, poorly disposed waste (broken glass, cans, construction debris, stones, etc.). After layer-by-layer compaction, the ditch filled to the lower level of the fertile layer is filled up. Then they dig another ditch into the joint. And so, over the course of a number of years, a drainage system is created.

How to install drainage pipes: step by step instructions
In order to properly install drainage pipes, it is necessary to correctly follow certain instructions and sequences. This material describes how to install drainage pipes yourself.

Why is drainage needed?

Before enjoying outdoor recreation, the owner of the land must make a lot of efforts to improve it. A large number of land plots outside the city limits are characterized by waterlogging of the soil.

To get rid of excess moisture on the site, a drainage structure is created, which is an outflow of liquid artificially laid in the soil, consisting of a system of channels or pipelines. Once in them, the water moves towards specially equipped storage wells and reservoirs or is discharged outside the local area.

In practice, the owner of the site should be alerted by a number of signs of the presence of excess moisture, which indicate the need to equip drainage:

growth on the site of a large number of moisture-loving plants;
periodic appearance or constant presence in the basements and cellars of groundwater buildings;
the formation of poorly drying puddles after rain.

But as practice shows, the absence of the above signs does not indicate that there are no problems with waterlogging and that they will not appear in the future. The best solution may be to consult a specialist who will determine the degree of soil moisture in the area and the need for drainage work.

Drainage system options

When deciding how to lay drainage pipes, you should be aware of the existence of several ways to create drainage structures:

Creation of trenches with gravel and sand. A closed-type drainage system is ditches and trenches dug in the ground, which are filled with a layer of rubble, and sand is placed on top. Often on personal plots they use an effective design called a "herringbone" - secondary pipelines are brought to the central highway.

Installation of perforated pipes

Before the installation of drainage pipes, calculations are made and building materials are selected.

seasonal groundwater level;
soil characteristics and soil structure;
the volume of moisture in the form of flood waters and precipitation.

All this information can be requested from the regional office of land resources. Based on the data obtained, specialists will make calculations and find out the required trench depth and pipe parameters.

When laying drainage pipes with your own hands, preference should be given to plastic products. The device of plastic pipes is simple - they have two layers of polyethylene or PVC, so that the products will last at least 50 years even if they are installed at great depths.

The procedure for laying drainage pipes with your own hands

The creation of a drainage structure begins with the marking of the territory, according to a pre-compiled scheme. Then they dig trenches with a depth that was established during the calculations. To determine their width, 40 centimeters are added to the outer diameter of the pipes. Also, do not forget about the slope of the drainage pipe about 3 °.

Pipes wrapped with geofabric are laid on a pillow. The connection of drainage pipes is carried out using special couplings.

At the final stage, backfilling is performed - performing all the steps in reverse order. On top of the pipes, crushed stone, sand and soil, previously taken out of the ditch, are poured in layers. Sod is laid on top, if desired.

discrepancy between the depth of the dug trench and the needs of the system, which may result in a violation of the water balance in the garden;
use of drainage pipes of the wrong type that should have been used. As a result, the constructed structure will quickly fail;
incorrectly made angle of inclination of the drainage. This leads to incorrect operation of the system, and on the ground there are serious problems with the observance of the water regime.

If the laying of drainage pipes can be done independently, then entrust the calculations and drawing up the scheme to specialists. Performing a fairly simple job, you must follow the instructions, paying special attention to the angle of inclination of the system, the reliability of the connection of the elements, the correct arrangement of the manholes.

Laying drainage pipes with your own hands: installation, how to lay, laying drainage pipes with geotextiles, connection technology, photo and video examples

Do-it-yourself drainage pipe: step-by-step laying technology + analysis of the nuances of organizing drainage

Drainage is a piping system designed to drain excess fluid from a site. It must be equipped if underground aquifers come too close to the surface or there is a risk of flooding the area during spring floods.

Let's understand the system construction technology: how the drainage pipe should be laid with your own hands, what tools and materials will be required for this.

When the site needs drainage

The need for a system device cannot be determined “by eye”, because groundwater can lie close to the surface, which becomes a real problem only during floods or heavy rains.

Many areas are located in the lowlands. Waterlogged soil causes root rot, which creates many difficulties in caring for the garden and garden. Plants often infect fungal diseases, “eat” mold. Some crops do not take root in wet soil, and the crop rots in the bud.

Dense clay soils do not absorb water well. This leads to frequent flooding of the underground parts of buildings. Due to the high degree of mineralization, ground and atmospheric waters negatively affect buildings: they destroy building materials and provoke corrosion. Even high-quality waterproofing is not able to 100% prevent basements, foundations, plinths from getting wet. As a result, buildings serve much less than they could.

You can determine whether drainage is needed on the site by several signs:

Terrain relief. Sites located in lowlands and on steep slopes need a drainage system. Otherwise, fertile soils can be eroded or flooded during rains and floods.
Puddles. The flat terrain is convenient for construction, but puddles can appear and remain for a long time. This is a clear sign that water is poorly absorbed into the soil. A drainage system should be installed throughout the site.
Rotting of the root system of plants. If excess liquid remains in vegetable gardens, flower beds and lawns, the plants will rot and get sick.
moisture loving plants. If one or more types of moisture-loving plants grow on the site, this clearly indicates waterlogging of the soil.
Flooding of basements and cellars. An obvious "symptom" of the need for drainage is the flooding of foundations and underground building structures.
Hydrogeological research and observations. If experts have determined that the site has a high GWL, or similar conclusions can be reached during excavation, care should be taken to drain the soil.

Proper laying of drainage pipes on the site with your own hands is the only way to inexpensively and effectively get rid of excess water. If you contact a specialized company, the system will cost significantly more. It is better to understand the features of the arrangement of drainage and do everything yourself.

How is the drainage system

Soil drainage can be deep and superficial. In the first case, the system is designed to drain groundwater if it floods the site. In the second, drainage provides a decrease in soil moisture during the flood and rainy season. Both types of systems can be designed and assembled by hand.

Depending on whether it is necessary to collect moisture from the entire site or only from certain zones, linear or point drainages are equipped. Systems of the first type require careful design; when arranging them, it is necessary to strictly observe the laying technology and the slope angle of the drainage pipes.

In linear systems, there is a need if you need to drain areas around buildings, paths, entrances, ennoble the local area or remove excess moisture from the garden. Drains are shallow ditches where water flows and then moves to special receiving tanks, storm sewers or to an off-site discharge point.

Point collectors do not need to be accurately calculated and prepared diagrams. They serve for local drainage and are located on flat areas, in recesses. Therefore, there is no need for a large amount of excavation, and much less materials are required for arranging a point system than for a linear one.

To solve the problem of shedding the walls of the ditches, you can use the method of backfilling with crushed stone: a large fraction material is laid on the bottom, and a fine fraction on top, after which the entire drainage cushion is covered with turf. This option allows you not to trim or strengthen the walls of the trenches, but it is suitable for areas with relatively low humidity, because. the carrying capacity of the ditch is greatly reduced.

For the arrangement of a closed system, special trays-water collectors made of concrete or polymeric materials are used. They are covered with gratings on top to drain water. Such a device helps prevent shedding of the soil, and dirt and debris do not get inside the structures. In most cases, site owners prefer light polymer tanks, because. they are easy to install and durable.

When determining how to properly lay the drainage pipe to protect the plants from excess moisture, you can use the average values. As a rule, the optimal depth is 0.6-1.5 m. Moreover, for flower beds, lawns, beds, it does not exceed 0.9 m, and to protect the rhizomes of trees, it is necessary to dig the deepest trenches, especially if the site is located on peat soils.

Types and options for choosing drainage pipes

The drainage system, assembled from modern materials, can serve up to half a century. The main thing is to mount it correctly, conduct technical inspections on time and not ignore the need for repairs. Another advantage of polymers is their relatively low cost, since ready-made drainage is inexpensive, practical and durable.

An excellent solution is a pipe in a geotextile sheath. The outer material filters water while retaining dirt. Due to this, the pipelines do not silt. An alternative to drainage pipes is ordinary sewer pipes. From them you can make a drainage with your own hands. To do this, simply drill holes in the products, and wrap them with geotextile fabric on top.

Drainage pipeline laying technology

The pipeline leads to a drainage well. If it is long and located on a flat area, manholes are equipped at each segment of 50 m. They are also needed in places where the pipeline turns and bends, where the slope changes.

A drainage well can also be built with your own hands. It consists of a bottom, a shaft with a neck and a hatch. The dimensions of the well should be large enough so that a person can descend into it and clean it of silt. If it is not possible to equip an overall well, then it should be equipped in such a way that it is possible to wash the walls with a hose and scoop out the dirt.

Concrete, plastic, brick can be used as materials for the manufacture of wells.

The strongest and most durable structures are made of reinforced concrete well rings. They have a large diameter, they are easy to maintain. Minus - difficulties with installation due to the large mass. As a rule, you have to attract assistants or use special equipment.

Do-it-yourself drainage pipe laying technology

The nuances of the technology of laying a drainage pipe with your own hands. Features of the choice of drainage pipes and arrangement of the system. Drainage Installation Instructions

Drainage pipes: do it yourself

The increased humidity of the site is always a source of big problems for the owners. Wet soil destroys plants - due to insufficient oxygen supply, roots rot and almost the entire crop is destroyed. Not the best way to feel and buildings. The foundations become damp, water appears in the basements in the spring, the walls are covered with a network of cracks and colonies of fungus.

Excess moisture can be easily removed with the help of special engineering structures known as drainage. The owners should pay attention to the arrangement of the drainage system in the first place immediately after the acquisition of the site. And preferably before carrying out large-scale construction work, if any are planned.

How and why drainage works

An artificially constructed watercourse is a system of underground pipelines and surface channels for collecting water. Moisture enters special containers, and then is removed outside the site.

It is possible to determine whether a site needs drainage by indirect signs. The high moisture content of the soil is evidenced by:

the presence of moisture-loving plants (for example, nettles);
flooding of cellars and cellars;
long drying of the site after rain (large puddles remain, from which water does not drain well).

But even in the absence of such warning signs, structures are not immune to water damage. For example, during heavy rains or during active snowmelt. For this reason, experts recommend, in any case, to install drainage around the foundation with their own hands and equip storm drains.

The main advantage of this type of drainage systems is the exclusion of expensive treatment facilities and other technical units. The complete system consists of:

from drainage pipes;
storm drains (gutters and storm water inlets);
sand traps - special mechanical filters at the inlet to the system collector;
common drainage wells;
a collector with a check valve (from here the water is discharged into the ground or a reservoir).

How to choose pipes

The main element of the system is the pipeline. For this reason, special attention is paid to the choice of pipes or drains, as they are more commonly called. Experts recommend paying attention to the following technical specifications.

Manufacturers offer products made of asbestos cement, polyethylene (with perforation) and polyvinyl chloride (perforation can be done by hand). Asbestos cement is the cheapest material. However, there are serious doubts about its environmental safety. Therefore, an increasing number of buyers opt for products made of durable plastic.

Ready-made perforated drains are sold in a geotextile wrapper. Cheaper PVC pipes require additional processing - cuts are made in a checkerboard pattern up to 5 mm wide. Processing is carried out on both sides. The distance between the cuts is 50 centimeters. Additionally, you will need to purchase a geofabric to wrap the pipe before laying it in the ground. The fabric serves as a filter and prevents liquid dirt from clogging the perforated pipes.

The diameter is selected depending on the amount of groundwater and precipitation.

Usually the diameter is from 5 to 8 centimeters.

Soil type

Soil type is one of the most important parameters when choosing pipes:

In soils with a high content of crushed stone, perforated products are laid, but without a geotextile filter.
Sandstones use geotextile-wrapped pipes with perforations. Additionally, it is recommended to make a sprinkling of crushed stone to prevent deformation of the pipeline.
Perforated products with a coconut fiber filter are mounted in clay soil. A cheaper option is to use geotextile. Be sure to make a backfill of crushed stone, covering the pipeline by 15-20 centimeters.
For loam, perforated pipes wrapped with geotextile are used.

In any soil, you can also use ordinary PVC pipes with homemade perforations and geotextile winding. This will greatly reduce the cost of the drainage system.

Tools and materials

For work you will need:

shovel and bayonet shovel;
garden wheelbarrow for soil;
manual roller for compacting sand and gravel;
mounting knife for cutting pipes;
drill or grinder, if you want to make notches (perforation);
scissors for geotextile.

You should also prepare building materials:

pipes;
adapters for manholes and collector;
fittings for pipe installation;
plastic pipes with a diameter of 30 to 50 cm for arranging inspection and drainage wells (you can also
purchase ready-made wells with a hatch or plastic tanks);
geofabric in rolls;
crushed stone or gravel, sand.

Work order

Drains are laid in the following order:

trenches are dug along the marking line, their depth should be below the freezing point of the soil;
a plan is drawn up and marking is carried out on the ground;
a layer of sand up to 10 centimeters thick is poured onto the bottom and carefully compacted with a skating rink;
crushed stone or gravel is laid on top (layer thickness 20 cm);
pipes are laid on the prepared pillow;
the system is mounted using couplings, and then the angle of inclination of the pipes towards the water collectors is checked;
at the joints and turns of the pipes, manholes are equipped (a piece of plastic pipe is cut off, a protective cover is mounted);
backfilling is performed - a layer of crushed stone, sand, soil is laid out sequentially;
on top, you can lay turf or sow herbaceous plants;
at the end of the outlet pipe after the collector, a check valve is mounted or a well is arranged to collect water (a sealed plastic tank is used).

Highlights when laying

The drainage system must meet the technical requirements. Self-activity in this matter is not welcome. For this reason, owners should pay attention to some important points:

To carry out the work, it will be necessary to create a vertical plan of the site, taking into account the occurrence of groundwater in a particular area. Specialists will help to compile it for a fee.
The exact depth of the pipeline, its diameter and type are calculated. At this stage, you will also need the help of specialists.
When digging a trench, make sure that its size is approximately 40 centimeters larger than the diameter of the pipes used. The slope of the trench is from three degrees (from 0.5 to 1 meter slope).
Manholes are located no closer than fifty meters from each other.
Installing a check valve or arranging a water collector is a prerequisite for the proper functioning of the entire system.

Common Mistakes

The most common mistakes in the arrangement of the drainage system are as follows:

shallow depth of trenches (decrease in system efficiency and increased risk of drains freezing in winter);
the use of pipes of the wrong type and diameter (leads to a quick failure of the system);
lack of an angle of inclination or a small angle (the operation of the system is paralyzed at maximum load).

Installation of a drainage system is a job that the owners of the house can do. However, it is better to entrust the preparation of a plan and carrying out all the necessary calculations to specialists.

Also, special attention is paid to compliance with all technical standards. The selection of pipes, the depth and angle of their laying are important points in the installation work.

Maintenance

Even a properly installed and well-functioning drainage system requires regular maintenance. Inspections of drainage and manholes are carried out once or twice a year. The owners should be alerted by the low water level, which may indicate:

clogging of drains;
about the appearance of a leak in the pipeline;
about the silting of the drainage well.

Sludge is the easiest to deal with. To do this, it is necessary to clean the drainage runoff using a fecal pump with a float shut-off mechanism. Such a unit will automatically cope with polluted water containing large impurities.

Flushing of drains is carried out with special equipment. To solve the problem with clogging of the system, you need to contact the experts.

Proper laying of drainage pipes with your own hands - highlights and typical mistakes

Laying drainage pipes: purpose of drainage, selection of drainage pipes, tools and materials, installation procedure, common mistakes, system maintenance

The most effective way to protect the foundation of a private house from the destructive effects of groundwater and storm water is a high-quality drainage system. What is especially important when water accumulates in the upper layers of the soil, as it can provoke flooding of the basement or basement, moistening and deformation of the walls, as well as the occurrence of fungal formations. The article will discuss how to lay drainage pipes.

Pipes for the drainage system, which are installed around the entire perimeter of the site, allow you to create a high-quality drainage system. After all, the danger of flooding is not only groundwater, but also floodwaters. Damage can also be caused by precipitation that exceeds permissible limits.

Drainage pipe photo

Unlike foundation waterproofing, the drainage system can be laid even after the construction of the house, if there are grounds for this. But under certain conditions, it is better to install at the initial stage of construction. This requires the following reasons:

the gently sloping location of the site, contributing to a significant accumulation of water;
clay and loamy soil, which have poor culvert characteristics;
statistics of exceeding the level of precipitation characteristic of the area in which the building is located;
elevated groundwater level (less than 1.5 meters to the ground surface).

In addition, it is worth focusing on the depth of construction of the remaining buildings on the site. The presence of a deep foundation next to the main building not only prevents the natural outflow of groundwater, but also contributes to its accumulation, thereby increasing the risk of flooding. A barrier to the free circulation of water are also concrete blind areas and asphalt pavement equipped on the site. In such a case, it is considered competent to connect storm drains to the main drainage system.

To prevent the consequences of changes in the level of groundwater and the accumulation of moisture in the soil around the building, laying a drainage pipe will allow.

Types of drainage systems

There are two main options for designing a drainage system:

Open (surface)- used to remove excess moisture that has arisen due to the accumulation of precipitation or melt water. The open drainage system is presented in the form of ditches and trenches.
Closed (deep)- in laying pipes with perforation are used, which are laid to a certain depth in a previously prepared trench. The main function is to drain groundwater and protect the foundation of the house.

Materials required for laying a closed drainage system

The process of installing a drainage system is quite laborious and requires thorough preparation. From bulk building materials you will need:

Sand. In drainage works, river sand is mainly used. Its main function is to create a filtration cushion around the drainage pipe.
rubble. To equip the system, you will need a medium and large fraction. The purpose of crushed stone is to form a stable layer to prevent the penetration of dirt and large parts of the soil. In addition, crushed stone prevents excessive soil pressure on the corrugated pipe.

drainage pumps. They are used only in case of significant flooding of the site with groundwater. Contribute to mechanical drainage;
drainage pipes. With their help, the main drainage system is formed. The number and diameter depends on the complexity of the bookmark scheme. Most often, plastic pipes are used for drainage;
geotextile- protects the drainage pipe from soil contamination. As a rule, interlining or dornite is used. In addition to strength, both types of textiles have a filtering ability;
couplers- necessary for attaching drainage pipes to each other.

As a rule, the drainage system needs periodic cleaning; for this, manholes are installed along its perimeter. And to collect water in the system, a collector well is mounted.

Selection of drainage pipes

Before starting the installation of the drainage system, special attention should be paid to the choice of pipes for work. The first thing to consider is the use of perforated pipes in the arrangement of the drainage system. The second is the diameter and the presence of holes for the outflow of moisture and air exchange. And no less important point is the material from which the pipes are made.

Currently, the following types of pipes are presented on the building materials market:

The most popular in the arrangement of the drainage system are polymer drainage pipes. Their advantage over other species is as follows.

Long service life - up to 70 years.
High levels of strength.
Resistance to corrosion processes and exposure to aggressive environments.
Reduced weight indicators that simplify the process of transportation and installation.
Self-cleaning ability due to smooth surface.
Silt resistance.
Value for money.
Ease of maintenance. Thanks to the geotextile filter, the system does not need to be flushed.

Drain pipe diameter:

up to 150 mm - for a drainage system that drains a small amount of water;
up to 300 mm - for systems with a high load.

For an extensive drainage system, you will need pipes of both small (for branches) and large diameter (for the main branch of the system).

Plastic drainage pipes

Polymer pipes, which are usually used for laying drainage systems, are made of PVC, polypropylene or polyethylene and are represented by the following types:

single layer or double layer. The choice of the number of layers depends on the density of the soil;
flexible and rigid. Rigid pipes are applicable for simple drainage schemes, while flexible pipes allow you to create complex branching throughout the site;
pipes with or without filter jacket. As a rule, drainage pipes already have holes along their entire length. But if there are no special holes in the purchased material, you can make them yourself with a drill and a thin drill;
corrugated or smooth.

As for geofabric coverage, as a rule, samples already covered with filter textiles are presented on the building materials market. When buying uncoated pipes, their surface can be wrapped independently by securing the material with a rope or thin wire around the perimeter of the pipe.

Drainage pipe laying design

Before starting work on the installation of a drainage system, it is worthwhile to first draw up a plan for its location on the site.

This requires taking into account the type of soil and the height of groundwater. The branched scheme is most often used, at the junctions of which manholes are installed.
The distance between the branches directly depends on the type of soil. For clay soil, it is 10 meters, for loamy soil - 20 meters, with sandy soil type - 45 meters.

Laying drainage pipes with your own hands

First you need to determine the location of the drainage system. There are only two accommodation options:

"wall" drainage - passes only near the foundation of the house and prevents moisture from entering directly into the building itself;

a drainage system located around the entire perimeter of the site protects not only the basement of the building, but also other outbuildings and plantings located on the territory.

The first step is to mark the site for the placement of drainage ditches. To facilitate the process, you can use a special laser rangefinder. Particular attention should be paid to places where moisture accumulates after rain - this means that water exchange is difficult in this area due to the density of the soil or the presence of obstacles.
Trench. The recess under the drainage trench must be carried out taking into account the height differences. The main task of the prepared ditch system is the rapid and unhindered outflow of water.

Tip: during work, you can use a watering hose by running a certain amount of water - make sure that water does not accumulate in certain parts of the trench.

Before installing drainage pipes, the bottom of the trench must be carefully tamped. Then any filter material is laid, while its ends should extend beyond the trench. Next, river sand and crushed stone are poured, first large, then medium fraction, to a thickness of no more than 20 cm.
Drainage pipes are cut according to the dimensions of the scheme, using a jigsaw or a special device - a pipe cutter. Next, start laying pipes, connecting the joints with fittings. In order for the junction to be strong, it is necessary to dock the parts after preheating the docking sections.
Pipes must be carefully wrapped with geotextile, securing the joints with a rope or thin wire. The choice of such a material is not accidental, since it must pass the water coming out of the perforation. In addition to the throughput, the function of geotextiles is to protect the perforations of the pipe from clogging.

Pipe laying must be done at a slope, connecting the ends to manholes. Two types of wells can be used in the system: sealed, allowing the use of collected water for technical purposes, and absorbing - the water will go back into the soil. The slope of the drainage pipes depends on its diameter, the larger it is, the less slope is required.
The next step in the installation of drainage pipes will be filling the surface with crushed stone and sand. After that, the structure is wrapped with sheets of filter material located on the surface and covered with a layer of soil.

Maintenance of the drainage system

In arranging the site with a drainage system, not only its thoughtful and high-quality installation is important, but also compliance with the operating rules. This will extend the life of the system for as long as possible.

Approximately once every four years, it is mandatory to inspect the condition of pipes and wells, as a preventive measure. In addition, once every two years it is worth measuring the water level in the wells, its significant change may indicate the following factors:

damage to the integrity of the pipe;
the formation of a dense blockage;
the growth of silt deposits on the entire surface of the pipe;
partial settlement of the pipeline due to soil movement.

In order to avoid such problems, it is necessary to timely inspect the drainage system and clean it from various kinds of pollution.

Errors in the laying of the drainage pipe

The effectiveness of drainage directly depends on the quality of the installation. Any violations during operation contribute to the disabling of the system. In the best case, you can repair the damaged area, in the worst case, you will have to completely reinstall the drainage system.

The most common mistakes include:

selection of the pipeline system without taking into account the quality of the soil. For example: on loamy soil it is not recommended to use pipes without a filtration system;
violations associated with a change or absence of the angle of inclination of the drainage system;
initially, the option of draining water from the well was not provided;
the technology for arranging drainage pipes is not observed - the installation was made without filtering dumping of crushed stone and sand;
lack of geotextiles and filter material;
poor-quality soldering of pipes;
no perforation.

Choosing the type of drainage system, it is necessary to be based on the location of the site and the quality of the soil. For self-arrangement of drainage, it is necessary to plan in advance the layout of the drainage. When choosing materials, preference should be given to the most practical and durable. These include plastic corrugated pipes with perforation. Observing all the stages of laying the drainage system, you can get a high-quality drainage system. In addition, drainage guarantees the protection of the basement or basement of the house from the harmful effects of groundwater.

Laying a drainage pipe: step by step instructions, Construction Portal