Door frame: do-it-yourself door jamb, how to make a video, making a wooden frame and a box with a boat. Do-it-yourself interior door installation

Design features

1 - Box
consists of a door frame frame 80mm wide. and an expander, ordered at will, with which to close a wall of any thickness from 100 mm. without additional fasteners and painting work.

2 - Material
the door frame and the door frame are made of eurobeam, spliced in width and length with a microthorn, and lined with veneer. On the door leaf, under the veneer layer, there is an MDF sheet substrate for a complete fit of the veneer.

3 - platband
platband (width 60-65mm, L-shaped). Fastens in a groove of a box or an expander, without use of self-tapping screws or glue. The most accurate adjunction of the casing to the wall and ease of installation. At the request of the customer, the doors can be equipped with a flat, rounded casing or a portal, which makes the appearance of the door more individual.

4 - Loops "OTLAV" (Italy)
semi-articulated, barrel-shaped, made of high-quality steel, equipped with a ball axle. With a slight turn of the hexagon, the door is adjusted in the desired direction (down, up, back, forward, right, left) and can withstand the weight of the door up to 70 kg. The hinge is covered with a decorative cap, which is matched to the light of the handle in accordance with the aesthetic needs of the client.

5 - Sloping quarter
significantly improves sound insulation, hides the gap between the box and the leaf, the striker and the lock tongue, and also makes the appearance complete.

6 - Decor
decorative elements made of pieces of glass (fusing), stained glass, sandblasting allow you to give individuality to each door. It is possible to apply various types of milling or the effect of aging on the panel.

7 - Handle "Colombo" (Italy)
multi-layer coating using precious metals and treated with a special protective varnish that is resistant to abrasion.

8 - Fillet
consists of MDF, which significantly improves sound insulation. MDF is strong, durable and does not shrink. Eco-friendly material free of glue and formaldehyde.

9 - Castle "AGB" (Italy)
The lock mechanisms can be: "standard", "sanitary" - toilet, bathroom, "turnkey" - an office or a second entrance door, "magnetic" or "card" lock - for modern hotels.
10 - Seal "DEVENTER" (Germany)
Good heat and sound insulation, as well as closing without cotton. Fastened by cutting (without glue) into the groove of the door frame. The color is brown or beige depending on the color of the door veneer.

Lutka and platbands

The door latch is fixed in the wall opening, the door leaf is hung on it. One of the most important indicators for a loot is its reliability and ease of installation. The main disadvantage of most loot is the difficulty of fitting to the width of the wall. To eliminate this shortcoming, a new design solution was developed, using a telescopic eurobox (Fig. 1). The eurobox consists of a main shell (80 mm.) and an additional expander (addition), with which you can close a wall of any thickness without additional fasteners and painting robots. The L-shaped platbands are attached to the groove of the door shell or expander without the use of glue and self-tapping screws or nails.
The door leaf is made with a flowing quarter, this design allows you to make a gap between the hatch and the door leaf up to 7 mm. This prevents the door leaf from rubbing and hides the lock tongue. For a canopy, barrel-shaped loops are used (Fig. 1). The hinges are adjustable in three planes, made of high-quality steel and equipped with a ball axle to facilitate rotation, designed for the weight of the door leaf up to 70 kg, the hinge is covered with a decorative cap that matches the color of the handle in accordance with the aesthetic needs of the client. For better closing, a German sealant from Deventer is installed in the door frame, it also provides good sound and heat insulation and closing without cotton.

Glazing and thresholds

Glazing

Door leaves are supplied from the factory equipped with glass. But the unique way of glazing the door makes it easy to replace the glass.

Thresholds

Interroom doors are issued without thresholds. Firstly, this is argued by the fact that floor coverings specially designed for the floor should be used. When finishing doors, a veneer coating is used, which has a decorative effect, which will retain its appearance for many years, but is not intended for door thresholds. Secondly, exhaust ventilation ducts are built into the doors used for bathrooms so that the doors do not interfere with air circulation, therefore an air gap is created between the floor and the door leaf of about 5 mm.

Installation and operating conditions

The door block can be installed in a prepared doorway.
It is forbidden to mount the product before the completion of "wet" processes (plaster, cement floor screed, etc.)
For a canopy of a door barrel-shaped hinges are used. In both halves of the hinge, two rods are mounted - centering and adjusting, designed to adjust the position of the hinge in the horizontal plane. By turning the hexagon, the door is adjusted in the desired direction.
To avoid rubbing, leave a gap between the door leaf and the loot up to 7mm.
In relation to the floor, the door is installed in such a way that an air gap of up to 5 mm remains.
Mechanical parts must be protected from dirt and other foreign objects.
The core and tongue of the lock must be easy to move and work silently.
The expander (addition) and the casing have a standard size, they are cut at the installation site.
The door unit must be protected from direct sunlight to avoid partial discoloration of the product.
Cleaning is done with soapy water. It is forbidden to use abrasive and chlorine-containing products.
The door unit is supplied in a package (polystyrene, polyethylene, cardboard), the leaf is ready for installation (glass, hinge, lock mechanism, sealant, striker plate)
Doors from "Meranti plus" meet the requirements of GOST 475-78 "Wooden doors. OTU”, can be operated indoors with a relative humidity of 40-60% and an ambient air temperature of 12-24°C.
Damage to the factory coating of the door unit is not allowed.
The secret of the highest quality of our interior doors lies in the production on the latest automated equipment, as well as in the highly qualified personnel of the factory.
We draw your attention to the fact that the differences in the pattern and shade of wood veneer are characteristic features of products covered with natural veneer, emphasizing the beauty of natural wood.

Tiebacks for curtains are an important and necessary interior detail that has a dual function, being both a practical element in the design of curtains and a decorative accessory that allows you to bring a bright and unique accent to the image of the window. The practical side of the tiebacks carries a functional load, using which you can easily adjust the proportion of illumination of the entire room.

Are you close to the finish line in interior design? Are your windows decorated with beautiful and elegant curtains? But the desired image of the interior of the room, previously formed in your imagination, does not emerge in any way? And this is not surprising, because it is important to remember that not always correctly selected curtains, taking into account practical advice and recommendations of specialists, are the key to a successful end result. A bright and unique result, oddly enough, is made up of little things.

Details such as ties for curtains will come to the rescue, which will not only add the “necessary” touches to the appearance of your window reception, but will make the interior of the room new, stylish and unique correctly, easily and taking into account the latest fashion trends. Only a few details on the curtains, and the decor of the entire window plays with unusual and interesting colors.

Tiebacks for curtains are multifunctional: they subtly emphasize the interior, look great, successfully decorate windows, being an integral part of the completed composition.

Purpose, application: we consider everything

The main purpose of the tiebacks is to fix the curtain so that it falls, but only slightly falls in beautiful, neat and elegant folds.

Of the many benefits, the most significant are:

regulate the flow of sunlight, or rather let in more light;
give a unique image not only to the window, but to the whole room;
can be of the most diverse type, which allows you to implement any creative ideas;

Tiebacks are attached at the level of the window sill, but this is not a canon. Each owner can fix them at the level they want.

Pickup for curtains is used in two cases:

When the curtains are located on the doors
When curtains with drapery are placed on the windows.

What is the catch for curtains? What rules and tips should be followed when choosing a tie-back for curtains so as not to disturb the harmony of the interior? Let's deal with all this together.

Rule 1. The identity of the tieback and curtain textiles is not mandatory.

Rule 2. When choosing pickups, consider the overall style of the interior of the room.

The easiest way is to buy ready-made tacks, but it is much more interesting to do it yourself, given that their manufacture does not require certain knowledge and skills. Everything can serve as a material for such decorative elements: ropes and harnesses, ribbons and chains, belts and toys, pieces of cord, even cutlery.

Types of pickups for curtains. Which to choose?

There are no limits to design ideas and creativity. Proof of this is a huge number of pickup options. These accessories can combine beads, rings, and fringe tassels. In general, everything that is at hand. Improvised means are the basis for future exclusive pickups. The main thing is that it is absolutely not necessary to resort to the help of professionals, a sewing machine. No need to use special patterns, schemes. Everything is simple and easy.

Fashionable leather belt or suspenders.

These tacks are perfect for a serious businessman's home office or a teenage boy's room.

Hook lock.

This element for tacking can be found on women's handbags that are out of order. Give the hook-lock a second life, and the curtains will take on an exclusive look.

Tiebacks in the form of a toy.

Are toys in a child's room more of a dust collector than a play tool? The child has grown up and soft toys have lost their significance? But the room has not ceased to be a child's room, so use small soft toys as a pick-up, and you will only benefit: the toys again decorate the room.

Tack - cutlery.

If we are talking about tacks for kitchen curtains, forks or spoons will be in the find. Bend them in the right direction, and that's it: the curtains in the kitchen are, indeed, kitchen curtains. And the metallic sheen from the appliances captivates the eye.

Elegant porcelain and ceramics.

We continue to decorate the curtains on the windows in the kitchen. Take advantage of the idea when a cup left over from a stylish and expensive service can serve as a tack. The only thing you need to make such tacks is a tool for cutting ceramics or glass. Make a hole instead of the bottom of the cup, and your tiebacks are a role model.

Door handle vintage.

The lightest and easiest option for pickups. Screw a doorknob into a wall, door frame or window frame and your curtains can be tacked on with simple yet exclusive decorative pieces.

Textile grips.

This variant of pickups is the most idea-rich way. Any textile, any texture of any color can satisfy the desires of the most capricious and creative designer. Tacks that are in contrast with the fabric of the curtains look great. For example, delicate and weightless tulle curtains perfectly complement simple and coarse burlap ties. This option will be appreciated by connoisseurs of extravagant ideas. And if, in addition, the room is made in light beige tones, such a fusion of textures will become a real design masterpiece of the room.

Magnetic grips.

Magnetic ties for curtains- this is an accessory, element, part that holds the fabric of the curtain with a magnet, which is located on both sides of the clip (it can be either sewn in or not sewn in). A variety of shapes and sizes of magnetic pickups opens up huge opportunities for buyers. You can choose a magnetic clip for every taste and color. They hold the curtain firmly, are durable and reliable in use.

The era of romanticism.

Is your bedroom filled with the spirit of romanticism? Do you prefer soft and pastel colors in room textiles? And the fabric of the curtains is weightless and transparent. Solution found. Look for old coins, chains, metal buttons and medallions in the "grandmother's chest". Use them to create curtain holders, and your curtains will “fill up” with the spirit of the romantic era, and the room will be filled with the charm of knights' choirs.

Flower grips.

They are easy and beautiful to use. They are inexpensive, easy to do. An artificial flower for every taste: from a banal rose to a masterpiece iris, worn on a ribbon to match the tone, is not only aesthetically pleasing and feminine, but also harmonious, because the ribbon is able to subtly emphasize the grace of a flower tack.

Beads.

Are you attracted by luxury and solemnity? Beads or threads of beads of various shapes and colors will be an excellent option as a decorating element. With such threads, you can bring the room closer to the oriental interior, where there is no place for modesty and simplicity. From bright beads to snow-white pearls - the decision is yours.

Twine, braid, brocade ribbons, cord.

Twine is one of the simplest and easiest ways to transform curtains. It will perfectly fit into the interior of the nursery with marine motifs, but in the hall it will look elegant if it is preliminarily tinted with gold paint. Cord tiebacks are an exclusive accessory that can reimagine a room.

The hook is a new life for an old part.

Do you want to update something in the design of curtains, but there is no time for manual work or shopping? Use an ordinary clothes hook as a tack, after changing the angle of the hook to 900.

knitted knots

Tacks are not easy, requiring an investment of strength and painstaking work. Make knots out of string, ribbon, leftover fabric, and use them as curtain ties.

Tacks - pipes.

There are few connoisseurs of such tacks, but still there are. They look great in the interior of a country house, cottage or summer kitchen. Buy a pipe corner (more precisely, a pipe adapter), and your new decor element is ready for use.

Composition from "All That Is"

Are you unable to get rid of broken hairpins, torn off buttons, plaques and remnants of jewelry? And it is not necessary. Now they will come in handy. Make a composition by connecting the details suitable for your interior, and you will be surprised. New, beautiful, and most importantly, exclusive tiebacks only for you.

Here, perhaps, are the most running and most common elements in human life - the basis for your future tacks. Find creativity in yourself, connect your imagination and stock up on purposefulness.

Is there something missing from the finished image?

If you prefer classic tacks made of tape, additional elements will help to add zest and make the tack unsurpassed:

Buttons. Sew buttons in color or vice versa play in contrast. Tacks will become brighter and more interesting.
Zippers sewn onto the fabric base of the ribbon will emphasize the solidity and elegance of the entire decorating element.
Embroideries look great on tiebacks that complement an ethnic interior or a country-style room.
Beads, glass beads and beads will appeal to those who love elegance and solemnity in the interior.

Tiebacks for curtains can do everything ...

Using tiebacks, you can make a deep drapery of the curtain, while it must be lush. With their help, a narrower curtain can be given an elegant and graceful look, it is enough to tie it to the window frame.

To correctly determine the place of pickup, it is necessary to measure the length of the curtain.

In the event that the curtain only touches the window sill, the tiebacks are fixed at a distance of 1/3 of the entire height, counting from the bottom. For example, the length of the entire curtain is 120 cm. This means that 1/3 of 1m 20 cm will be 40 centimeters. Therefore, the clip should be fixed 41 cm from the bottom of the curtain or 81 cm from the top.
For long curtains, there are no restrictions and rules for attaching tacks.

Advice. It is important to remember that tacks both lengthen and expand the window area. The height at which the clamp is tied affects this.

If you are trying to visually make the window wider, fix the tiebacks below the middle of the curtain. If you want to lengthen the size of the window, place the decorative elements of the curtains above the middle.

Based on their own imagination, guided by their own taste and style, presenting the final result of the interior design of the room, everyone chooses their own version of pickups.

Using clips for curtains, you will make the window beautiful and noticeable, the soft curtain fabric will lively, and the boring interior design will be elegant and magnificent. As you can see, tiebacks are an accessory that is not only necessary, but also useful.

Do-it-yourself door frame For proper manufacturing, you will need to make measurements of the doorway and the interior door, and only then proceed to the processing of wood. Self-made doors will allow you to save a considerable amount of money.

What is a door frame for?

Door frame - part of the structure in the doorway, which ensures the correct installation of the door. It looks like a frame. Without door frames, it is impossible to install interior doors.

Metal hinges are attached to the door frame, on which the door will be mounted, as well as a mortise plate for a lock or latch. The state of the entire structure with a wooden door depends on how well the frame is made and how well it was installed.

The door frame ensures the correct installation of the door

When measuring the box, you need to take into account the weight of the door leaf, which will carry the load on the door frame.

The door frame consists of three parts - two side and one transverse. If necessary, you can make a threshold. Although now neat metal thresholds are being installed on the floor coverings, which can be purchased along with laminate or linoleum.

To make the door frame yourself, you should start by taking the necessary measurements and selecting the material.

Door jamb: measurements and material selection

Let's start with the fact that you need to choose the right timber (loot) in the store. It should correspond in width to the width of the wall into which the box is inserted. Loots come in various types, with a variety of coatings and all suitable sizes.

The materials from which the loot is made also vary:

whole tree;
metal.

If you buy it in the same place as the door, you will be offered an identical loot, which will not differ in any way from the door. Often, door manufacturers start producing wooden blanks for door frames. For the front door, it is better to choose a frame made of solid oak - more reliable and durable than MDF.

Before you start making a door frame, you need to take measurements

If suddenly the width of your wall is not standard and none of the proposed options is suitable, take a beam a little narrower than the wall, and the rest of the width can be compensated with a solid board.

When the materials are ready, as well as the tools, we proceed to the manufacture of the box.

Making a box begins with taking measurements. You can draw a drawing if you wish. Measurements are taken after the old box has been dismantled and the opening has been repaired - the irregularities in the wall have been puttied. First you need to take measurements of the height of the future structure, the width of the doorway. It is not advisable to exceed the size of the loot, as it will be more difficult to file extra pieces.

How to make your own door frame

To make a box of standard sizes, you will need three purchased timber. Two of them will go to the racks, one will be sawn into the upper crossbar and threshold.

The threshold may not be set, in which case the required length will be cut off from the whole beam, and the rest will go to waste.

It is not difficult to determine the height of the racks, they can be the height of the entire opening in the wall. However, not less than the height of the door with upper and lower gaps (2-3 mm), as well as double the thickness of the luke at its thinnest point. If the box is without a threshold, then the thickness of only the upper crossbar in the thinnest place (where it is embedded under the door). But then the bottom gap should be increased to at least 20 mm.

The process of making a door frame with your own hands

The upper crossbar along the length should include the width of the door with two small distances (2-3 mm each). Similarly with the threshold (if you decide to set it).

In order to connect all the details of the box to each other, it is necessary to make several cuts on the upper (lower) crossbar. You need to remove a small piece from the thick part of the loot. To do this, it is better to place all the details on the floor and combine them into a future box.

When docking, it will become clear what exactly interferes with a tight connection. When sawing off excess pieces of loot, it is important not to damage the coating of the box.

Do-it-yourself door frame: assembly of the structure

After all the details are adjusted, you can proceed to the assembly of the box. It is also easier to collect it on the floor.

Loot assembly:

Before connecting with screws or nails, holes should be drilled for future screws or nails. This is necessary so that the tree does not burst.
After connecting all the parts, it is better to check yourself by putting the box in the door.
Check all the gaps, and also in this position it is convenient to make markings for future loops.
Perhaps it will be more convenient to embed the hinges and the lock before installing the box, and after installation, just assemble everything like a designer.

When all the details of the door frame are ready, you can start assembling

There is another option for connecting the parts of the box by cutting them at an angle of 45 degrees. This option is also not bad, but additional accuracy is required.

Sections can be made using a miter box or special tools.

The finished parts of the MDF door frame can be pasted over with PVC film or veneered. If the loot is made of natural wood, it can be varnished or painted with any paint.

Wooden door frame: installation of the finished structure

After the box is assembled, you can proceed with the installation. On hand you need to have a hammer, self-tapping screws, a puncher, mounting foam and wooden wedges.

Progress:

We insert the box into the opening. If the box has small gaps with the opening, then you are very lucky.
If the loot has a special removable bar behind which you can hide the bolts, then this is the second luck.
In this case, we set the box on the level, put wedges between the wall and the box so that it does not stagger and drill a hole through the hole into the wall with a puncher.
There should be at least 3 connections on the uprights, and 1-2 on the bottom and top bars.
After that, blow out the gaps between the box and the wall with foam. After drying, cut off the foam behind the scoundrel with the wall and install the door and trim.

There are times when, after assembling the box, it is not located tightly in the opening - there are gaps of 2-3 cm or more.

The installation process of the door frame can be carried out after it is assembled

In this case, the installation is a bit more complicated:

You need to get wooden wedges 2 mm thick.
Before inserting the box, you should insert the door into it. It is not necessary to fix it on all the screws in the hinges, but still it should stand in its place.
We put the box together with the door in the opening. We fix with wide pegs according to the level.
Make sure that the box is not only level, but also does not fly out or sink over the edges of the wall.
We close the door from the outside and fix it with wedges around the perimeter. We pay special attention to the middle of the uprights and the upper crossbar.
After installing all the wedges, we blow out the gaps between the hole and the wall with mounting foam.

Blow out the foam carefully so that when it dries, it does not expand the hole so that the doors cannot then open and close freely.

Before blowing, for better adhesion of the foam, get rid of dust with water or a primer.

After the foam has completely dried (about a day), we cut off the foam, pull out the wedges from the door, and check the work. The final touch - we fix the locks and platbands.

How to make a door frame with your own hands (video)

If, when buying a new interior door, it is impossible to restore the old hatch, you can do it yourself. At the same time, it is very important to follow simple rules so that the finished box looks no worse than the factory version.

Door selection rules

If you decide to install the door yourself, the first thing to do is to make accurate measurements of the doorway, preferably without the old box. The main parameters are its depth, width and height.

The depth of the opening is the thickness of the wall, according to which the door frame (frame) is selected;
The width of the opening is the width of the door + approximately 8-9 cm for the installation of the loot.
The standard door size for a bathroom is 60 cm, for a kitchen - 70 cm, and for interior doors - 80 cm. Thus, to install, for example, a kitchen door, the width of the opening should be about 80 cm.

The MDF box itself has a standard thickness of 2.5 cm, multiply by 2, it turns out 5 cm. We add the necessary allowance for the free movement of the door - about 3 mm on each side. The remaining distance of 3-4 cm will be needed to adjust the correct position of the loot in space and its additional fixation with mounting foam;

Opening height. This parameter plays a role not so much when choosing the height of doors (the standard height of modern door panels is 2 meters), but when choosing a frame design. It can be with or without a threshold. The calculation of the height of the opening with a threshold is carried out according to the same scheme as the calculation of the width of the door. And if the door is installed without a threshold, then another 1-2 cm are added to the 3 mm margin for free movement of the door at the top (depending on the thickness of the floor covering).

Based on the data obtained, the choice of the door and accessories for it is carried out. The final set should look like this:

Door leaf;
box (2 vertical beams and one or two (if a threshold is provided) horizontal beams;
porch rails (vertical and horizontal);
additional strips (in case of non-standard opening width);
fittings (handle, hinges, lock (if necessary).

A set of necessary tools

Do-it-yourself installation of interior doors is, although not a particularly difficult, but responsible and painstaking process that will be very difficult to carry out without the appropriate tools. For accurate and fast completion of all work, you will need:

electric drill or puncher (depending on the material from which the walls are made);
drills or drills 4 and 6 mm;
hand saw with fine teeth;
drill for wood with a diameter of 4 mm;
chisel;
screwdriver or Phillips screwdriver;
tape measure and building level;
miter box;
fast mounting dowels with a length of at least 75 mm and wood screws 3.5x60mm;
assembly foam.

Do-it-yourself door installation: step by step instructions

The complexity of the process of installing a door with your own hands will depend on the initially chosen model. More expensive options already come with hinges and a handle and have ready-to-mount part sizes. Their assembly resembles a constructor, because. structural elements do not require adjustment, it is enough just to fasten them in a certain sequence, install the box in the opening, put the door on the hinges and ennoble the finished structure with platbands.

We will consider a more complex option, when the door leaf is completed only with blanks for the future loot and has neither hinges nor a handle. The first thing to do is to dismantle the old door and door frame.

Assembling a new loot

This process is performed on a flat horizontal surface, i.e. on the floor (in order to avoid damage to the elements of the box, it is recommended to first lay a soft substrate).

First of all, the upper crossbar of the box is sawn off, taking into account the width of the door, allowances for its freedom of movement (in total ≈ 6 mm) and the thickness of the loot (2.5 x 2 = 5 cm). Next, the vertical elements of the loot are mounted. They are laid out on the floor perpendicular to the upper crossbar. All elements are in the “on edge” position. When joining horizontal and vertical parts, you should get a right angle.

Feigned strips are temporarily inserted into the mounting grooves, on which the door is placed. Gaskets ≈ 3 mm thick are inserted between the door leaf and the frame along the perimeter (for example, even strips of cardboard).

Taking into account the possibility of splitting the MDF elements, it is strongly recommended to pre-drill the places for future screwing with a slightly smaller diameter wood drill.

Attachment points should be closer to the center of the parts. Two self-tapping screws are enough to connect each side of the box.

Having received a U-shaped base, it is necessary to cut off the excess vertical elements along the length. At the same time, one should not forget about the threshold (if it is planned) or the required distance from the floor (taking into account the thickness of the floor covering). Having measured the desired length and cut off the excess, the lower part of the box is fastened with a threshold detail of the same width and in a similar way with the installation of the upper crossbar, or a mounting plate for temporarily fixing the correct contour of the loot (attached to the lower end sections of the vertical racks). The assembly of the box is now complete.

Insert hinges

This process requires maximum precision and accuracy in work. The easiest way to do it is with a manual milling machine, but if there is none, then you will have to use a hammer and a carpenter's chisel.

After inserting the folded hinges into the gap between the door and the frame, and placing them at a height of ≈ 250 mm from the upper and lower edges of the door, it is necessary to make the appropriate markings on the latch and the end of the door on the side where the hinges will be placed (taking into account the right or left opening of the door) .

After removing the door from the assembled structure, using the available tools, it is necessary to cut out recesses in the luke and the end of the door, corresponding to the thickness and contour of the hinge plates. Next, the hinges are installed in the prepared "nests" using self-tapping screws (usually they are included with the hinges).

Do-it-yourself loot installation

The assembled structure must be inserted into the doorway, controlling its correct horizontal and vertical location using the building level. The box is fixed by means of wooden wedges and self-tapping screws.

Door leaf installation

The next step is to install the door leaf with embedded hinges on the inserted frame. This checks that the vertical and horizontal clearances are correct. If the door opens and closes without interference, and all the gaps are the same, then the installation was done correctly.

Final fixation of the box

Gaskets must be inserted into the gap between the door and the frame along the entire perimeter of the structure (for example, cardboard strips of appropriate thickness (≈ 3 mm). The next procedure is to fill the remaining space between the doorway and the frame with mounting foam.

We recommend purchasing a special gun for working with foam - this will facilitate and simplify the process of installing the box

After the foam has completely dried (≈ 12 hours), the excess foam that has come out is cut off and the lower fastening bar is dismantled.

Platband installation

The easiest and best way to carry out this procedure is with the help of a carpenter's miter box and a saw with fine teeth. Having measured the required dimensions of the horizontal and vertical platbands, they must be carefully sawn off at an angle of 45º.

Installation is carried out by means of thin self-tapping screws, followed by decorating their caps with special overlays in color with cash, nails without caps or mounting glue.

Significant heat leakage from the dwelling passes through the front door. Therefore, its proper thermal insulation will help you not only ensure comfortable conditions in your home, but also significantly save on heating, as well as improve sound insulation.

The most important thing in door insulation is choosing the right material. There are quite a few options for fillers with thermal insulation properties, but not all of them are effective enough.

Lutka - a rectangular box to which a door leaf is attached with the help of hinges. The main function of this element is sealing the entrance opening.

But even if the loot is carefully sized, it is impossible to get rid of the cracks through which air seeps in and heat escapes. Therefore, first of all, when insulating the door, it is necessary to close this space.

Most homeowners use foam rubber for this purpose, due to its low cost. But this material has such physical properties as sensitivity to moisture and high wear (such gaskets are completely destroyed within 2–3 years), which makes it unsuitable for thermal insulation.

An alternative to it are modern profiled rubber seals with a self-adhesive base. They bypass foam rubber in all respects: they provide better tightness, have a long service life, and are also easier to work with.

Materials for a wooden door

The most common way to protect a wooden front door from the cold is to place a layer of insulation between the door leaf and the decorative upholstery. The following materials are suitable for this:

Foam rubber. As mentioned above, it has a low cost, but quickly collapses, especially under the influence of high humidity.
Regular cotton. Traditional material, which in our country for a long time had no alternative. However, it is worth giving preference to it only as a last resort, since, firstly, it quickly deforms under its own weight and collects at the bottom of the door, and secondly, it is a favorable breeding ground for pests that damage the tree.
Mineral wool. This material is absolutely not suitable for the life of insects, microbes and fungi, but also loses its shape over time, although not as quickly as ordinary cotton wool.
Izolon. A modern heat insulator that has practically no weaknesses: it retains heat well, does not let in external sounds, and is compact.

But wood itself is poorly suited for reliable insulation, as it is strongly deformed under the influence of temperature and humidity changes, which violates the tightness of the door structure. Therefore, to maintain a constant temperature in the house, a metal door with a gasket made of heat-insulating material is better suited.

Ways to insulate a metal door

A steel door is insulated in much the same way as a wooden one: a layer of material with heat and sound insulating properties is placed between the outer leaf and the interior, which is held on the sides by a frame made of a profile pipe.

At the same time, the use of a rigid outer panel reduces the requirements for maintaining the heat insulator's own shape. In addition to the above options, additional materials can also be used to insulate a metal door.

This heat-insulating material is an ordinary accordion-shaped cardboard, which increases its surface area and, in theory, has a positive effect on its ability to retain internal energy in the room. But the only advantage of this choice is its extremely low cost, but it has more than enough disadvantages:

High level of fire danger;
Susceptibility to the destructive effects of moisture and condensation;
This material attracts rodents, which can use it to build their own nests.
The special shape of the surface does not improve its soundproofing properties, which leave much to be desired.

There are other types of cellulose-based heat insulators, but their properties are slightly higher than those of cardboard.

Mineral wool

It is necessary to reconsider the use of mineral wool for the insulation of metal doors. Among the advantages of this material, it is worth highlighting environmental friendliness and a relatively low price. But mineral wool is extremely sensitive to moisture, which is aggravated by contact with the steel of the door leaf. The fact is that metal surfaces condense heavily in the cold season, so if you decide to use the material in question for thermal insulation of the door, then it needs additional protection.

The most suitable option would be a vapor barrier that will not interfere with air ventilation, but will retain condensate. A simpler alternative would be plain polyethylene film, which is also effective at trapping water vapor.

Styrofoam

This material is considered by many builders as an ideal option for thermal insulation of the front door. Due to its porous but dense structure, it has a number of advantages:

Excellent heat retention;
Provides good sound insulation;
Deformed only as a result of intense physical impact;
It is easy to work with him;
Has a low cost.

But polystyrene still cannot be called an ideal heat insulator, since it has one significant advantage - it is very flammable. At the same time, during combustion, this material emits a large amount of volatile toxins, which, according to fire safety regulations, greatly limits its use in the repair of premises.

Polyurethane

This product of the modern chemical industry is considered at the very end of this article, because it can rightfully be called the best choice for thermal insulation of door structures. Known to many as "installation foam", it has an ideal structure that allows it to completely fill the space between the outer steel plate and the interior trim, as a result of which the entire surface of the door panel is completely protected from the penetration of cold and extraneous sounds.

Having low thermal conductivity parameters, polyurethane also burns very poorly, especially in the presence of additional protection. At the same time, the creation of an insulating layer from this material will take only a few minutes, even if you have not worked with it before.

It is also worth noting that there are two types of polyurethane fillers on the building materials market: with a closed and open cell structure. To insulate the front door, it is best to choose the second option, since it has lower thermal conductivity.