Holes in radish leaves what to do. Radish leaves in a hole: what to do, how to process, photos, preventive measures. Growing in a humid environment

All gardeners want to get as many healthy fruits as possible with a juicy tasty pulp, full of vitamins and minerals, from the radish beds.

But not everyone manages to grow a good harvest due to diseases and other reasons: sometimes radish pests get in the way, and methods of dealing with them do not always help. Due to insects not detected in time, vegetable growers may be left without radish fruits, but more often they still manage to be defeated with the help of insecticides.

In any climate zone, there are plenty of insects that can harm radishes and other cruciferous vegetables. Before you know how to treat radishes from pests, consider the main winged and crawling insects - the enemies of the vegetable.

• Cabbage moth... It is a small brown-gray insect with dark fringes on its wings. Radishes are harmed not by moths, but by their larvae, which feed on sap and plant tissues.
• Cabbage white... This white butterfly with a black border along the edge of the wings is known even to children. She lays eggs in radish plantings. Caterpillars hatched from eggs actively eat the lower part of the leaves, moving from outlet to outlet.
• Vegetable and cabbage scoop... Gray - brown butterflies making clutches on radishes. The larvae destroy the leaves, turning them into transparent skeletons. Plants attacked by a pest stop developing.
• Cabbage fly... It happens in spring and summer (the last fly is larger). An ash-colored fly that produces egg clutches on vegetable plantings, from which white worms hatch and attack the roots. Radish becomes unusable in 2-3 days.

• Cruciferous flea... The most dangerous enemy of this culture, eating the leaves of young plants: after its invasion, the tops resemble a sieve.
• Wireworm... The beetle larva is a nut beetle capable of destroying the entire plant, including the roots.

As you can see, radishes have a lot of enemies who want to feast on delicate foliage and roots, reducing all the efforts of gardeners to "no".

How to treat radishes in the garden from pests

Such an extensive list of harmful insects capable of destroying crops raises concern. However, many insecticides have been developed against pests that easily cope with the scourge: their list is no less.

Biological and chemical preparations against radish pests

Entobacterin

It is used in liquid and dry form: dissolve the product in water according to the instructions and spray the planting, or spray the preparation in powder.

Entobacterin is a universal biological agent against various insects, it is especially good at destroying cabbage moth and its offspring.

Bitoxibacillin

We dilute 50-100 g of powder in 10 liters of water, add 40 ml of liquid soap and pour the radish over the leaves in dry weather.

A biological product that is safe for bees and pets, it copes well with many harmful insects.

Actellic

Dissolve 20 ml in a ten-liter bucket of water and spray the planting (this solution is enough for 10 m²).

A good remedy against the cabbage fly and other winged enemies of the radish.

Zemlin and Provotox

They are used according to instructions against wireworms and other pests that live in the ground: cabbage fly larvae, ants and others.

Bazudin

We fill a liter container three quarters with sand, mix it with 30 g of the preparation and add it to the soil when planting (the composition is enough for 20 m²).

How to treat radish from wireworm pests? Just Bazudin: he also deals with bears, cabbage fly larvae, weevils, etc.

Initiative

30 g of the preparation is enough for processing 15 m². Prepare a mixture of ¾ l of sand and 30 g of the preparation and scatter it on the ground around the seedlings.

The initiative destroys not only wireworms, but also those pests of radishes, methods of fighting which are beyond the power of some drugs: caterpillars of scoops and white beetles, cruciferous flea, larvae of any flies.

Aktara

A universal insect repellent, used at the rate of 5 liters per hundred square meters. Kills aphids and caterpillars hatched from eggs of butterflies and moths. Dangerous for bees.

Actofit also copes well with pests. The biological product, dissolved in water according to the instructions on the package, destroys aphids, scoops, cabbage whites and many other insects that feed on cruciferous plants.

Folk remedies for enemies of radishes

What else can you treat radishes from pests? Folk remedies, especially if early varieties are planted, from which nitrates from chemicals will not have time to get out.

Ash and soap

Dissolve 50 g of laundry soap and 2 glasses of wood ash in 10 liters of water, and pour the radishes on a fine, but not hot day.

The remedy helps with the invasion of many harmful insects, especially the cruciferous flea.

Ash and tobacco

Regularly pollinating plantings after watering or rain with tobacco dust or ash, it is easy to get rid of caterpillars and other pests of vegetables.

Pepper and mustard

Mix 1 tsp in 10 liters of water. any hot pepper powder, 2 tbsp. salt and 2 tbsp. dry mustard. We water the plantings to destroy the caterpillars of the cabbage whites, moths and scoops.

If, after treating the beds with folk insecticides, it rained, we repeat the watering or pollination, otherwise the insects will destroy the plantings.

Now it is clear what pests of radishes are and methods of dealing with them - folk and industrial. Remember that for early varieties of radish, you can only use folk remedies or biological products that are not harmful to human and animal health.

The main pests of radishes are:

Fleas on radishes

Important! It is advisable to use chemical agents only when more than 4 individuals settle on one plant.

You can decide the best way to spray a radish from a flea by studying the properties of these pesticides:

Note! When processing plants, be sure to wear protective equipment: glasses, gloves and a respirator.

Radish pests in the greenhouse

Pest insects can harm radish plantings not only in the open field, but also in the greenhouse. Most often, in greenhouse conditions, radishes are attacked by cruciferous fleas. They gnaw the leaves of the radish, holes are formed in them. Sometimes novice gardeners do not know what to do if through holes appear on the leaves of the radish with what to process. If there are black fleas on the radish, what to do to protect the plant.

You can fight flea beetles with pesticides, but it is better to use proven folk methods.

You can sprinkle tobacco dust, ground pepper or mustard between the beds. The same means of struggle are also used for preventive purposes.

Tobacco dust

Folk remedies against pests

For example, if a cruciferous midge is eating a radish, what to do in this case. As in the open field, and in the greenhouse, it can be fought with the help of pepper, tobacco and ash.

Ash particles enter the respiratory tract, and insects die. For prevention, the plants are sprinkled with a mixture of lime and ash (1: 1) every 7 days.

If there are few pests, you can just crush the radish leaves with ash a little.

Add ash

From the larvae of the garden scoop, tincture of potato tops helps well. Just before spraying, add 50 grams of laundry soap to the infusion. Processing is carried out in dry weather.

With these preventive measures, you can protect the radishes from pests.

Almost all gardeners grow radishes on their plots. It belongs to early maturing crops, so it rarely suffers from diseases and pests, especially with proper care. But he still does not have absolute protection. If the gardener does not pay at least minimal attention to planting, it is likely that fungal diseases or pest attacks will develop. Therefore, you need to know the characteristic symptoms, be able to identify the problem and know how to cope with it. At an early stage, as a rule, folk remedies are sufficient, in other cases it will be necessary to use "heavy artillery" in the form of chemicals.

General measures to prevent the development of diseases and attacks of radish pests

The short ripening period is one of the advantages of the radish. Many pathogenic fungi, bacteria and viruses, eggs and insect larvae simply do not have time to go through the incubation period to cause significant damage to the plantings. But this does not mean that the culture, in principle, cannot suffer from diseases and pests.

To avoid negative consequences in the form of crop loss, it is advisable to regularly pay attention to preventive measures. There is nothing complicated in them, they will take very little time. But such events, coupled with competent agricultural technology, make it possible to practically guarantee planting protection from unwanted "guests".

There is nothing difficult in growing radish, but this crop is not immune from disease and pest attacks.

A close inspection of the beds at least once every 4-5 days helps to detect the problem in time. In the early stages of infection, as a rule, in order to cope with it, there are enough folk remedies that are harmless to human health and the environment. Chemicals, especially those that do not belong to preparations of biological origin, are very undesirable to use for the treatment of radishes. The culture is early ripening, harmful substances accumulate in root crops.

Plants with good immunity get sick much less often than those in which it is weakened. It is positively affected by soaking the seeds before planting in a solution of any biostimulator. A similar effect is given by both drugs purchased in the store (Epin, potassium humate, Emistim-M), and folk remedies (aloe juice, honey, succinic acid). But the excess nitrogen in the soil provides the opposite result, weakening the plants. This macroelement in large doses also has one more negative consequence - radish begins to actively form leaves to the detriment of root crops. Potassium and phosphorus strengthen the immune system. Their natural source is wood ash.

To prevent fungal diseases, seeds are etched in a solution of any fungicide of biological origin for 15–20 minutes before planting. The most common drugs are Strobi, Tiovit-Jet, Alirin-B, Bayleton.

Soaking seeds in a fungicide solution is an effective prevention of fungal diseases

A necessary condition for obtaining a bountiful harvest in a personal plot is crop rotation. Radish cannot be planted for 3-4 years where other crops from the Cruciferous family grew before (all types of cabbage, turnip, radish, rutabaga, turnip, daikon). In general, if possible, they are placed as far from each other as possible. They extract the same nutrients from the soil, suffer from similar diseases. This family also includes many weeds used by pathogens as a "transshipment base". Therefore, do not forget about regular weeding.

Cabbage, like other Crucifers, is a poor precursor and neighbor for radishes.

Radish seeds are planted as rarely as possible. With thickened plantings, diseases spread much faster. Plants are not ventilated, which is also harmful for them. Proper watering is also important. Drops should be avoided on leaves and stems.

Since autumn, the garden bed is dug up or at least deeply loosened. This helps to destroy fungal spores, eggs and pest larvae overwintering in the soil. All plant debris is collected and burned. It is strictly forbidden to use fresh manure as top dressing. It is an excellent breeding ground for them, moreover, it helps to keep the warmth necessary in cold weather.

Digging up the beds in the fall helps to destroy the eggs and larvae of many pests that were going to winter in the soil

Culture-typical diseases

Radish does not have any specific diseases. Most often, it is affected by the most common fungal, bacterial or viral diseases, which do not bypass any garden crops in general or plants from the Cruciferous family.

Belle of cabbage crops (white rust)

All Cruciferous plants suffer from the disease to one degree or another, but radishes, horseradish and turnips are affected much more often than cabbage. It is most dangerous for young plants. The optimum temperature for the development of the fungus is about 15 ° C. Another risk factor is cool rainy weather or sudden temperature changes that provoke fog and / or heavy dew.

Radishes suffer from white rust more often than other cruciferous plants.

Light green spots appear on the face of the leaf. The tissues in these places thicken, gradually turn brown and die off. On the seamy side, abscess-like pustules form. The leaf swells around them. When they "break through", a whitish, oily-shiny coating becomes visible, as if flakes of peeling paint. On root crops, if they had time to ripen, growths appear, resembling those that are characteristic of keels. The radish can turn into color, the stem begins to branch intensively, turning into something that looks like deer antlers. If you do nothing, it dries up and dies.

In case of severe damage, fungicides of biological origin are used - Ridomil-Gold, Ditan-M, Folikur. Folk remedies are effective in the early stages of the development of the disease and for prevention. These are, for example, a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate, soda ash or baking soda, colloidal sulfur (10-15 g per 10 liters). To make the solution better "stick" to the treated plants, add a little liquid soap or soap shavings (3-5 ml or 10-15 g) to it. Preventive treatments are carried out every 7-10 days (or more often if it rains constantly). To combat the disease, radishes are sprayed 3-4 times with an interval of 4-5 days.

Potassium permanganate is one of the most common disinfectants

Keela

A specific disease that is very dangerous for all Cruciferous plants. A gardener can lose at least half of the entire crop. It often disappears completely. The causative agent of the fungus is distinguished by rare vitality. In those beds where the keel has shown itself, potentially infected crops are not planted for 8-10 years. You can shorten this period to 4–5 years by placing tomatoes, potatoes, beets or any other legumes there.

Keela is a disease that affects only cruciferous plants

On the aerial part of the plant, the keel does not appear in any way. During the incubation period (20-30 days), growths of different sizes in the form of a ball or fusiform are formed on the roots and root crops. Gradually they turn brown and rot. The stem turns yellow, the leaves dry and lie down, as the plant does not receive enough water and nutrients.

Factors favoring the development of keels are too frequent and / or abundant watering, unsuitable heavy soil in which moisture stagnates for a long time, acidity of the substrate, high temperature (from 25 ° C). But it is also impossible to completely forget about watering - the keel causes the greatest damage during a prolonged drought. The disease spreads through infected seeds, soil, manure, it is carried by worms that live in the soil. It affects not only "cultured" Cruciferous plants, but also wild ones (shepherd's purse, rape).

Proper watering of the radish helps to slightly reduce the damage done to the keel crop.

Practice shows that radishes suffer much less from keels when they are planted early. Etching in Cumulus solution also helps to avoid contamination.

No remedies for the treatment of kila have been developed at the moment. The main focus should be on preventive measures. 2-3 days before planting the seeds, the soil is loosened, embedding sifted wood ash in it, or watered with so-called milk of lime (two glasses of slaked lime per 10 liters of water). You can also treat the garden with a solution of Carbation (40 g per 10 L) or Fundazol (10 g per 10 L).

A very dangerous viral disease that can affect most garden crops. Infected specimens lag behind in growth and development, the leaves are deformed and shrink. The front side of the leaf plate is covered with lettuce or yellowish-green spots located in the intervals between the veins. Depending on which particular virus has infected the plant, they can have the form of circles, strokes, angular spots. Gradually, these tissues turn black and die off. The veins darken too.

Radish mosaic is a viral disease, there are currently no remedies for its treatment

It is impossible to get rid of the mosaic virus using modern means. The only way to stop its spread is to remove all affected plants from the garden and burn them as quickly as possible.

The best prevention is competent crop care and keeping the beds clean. It is especially important to strengthen the plant's immunity, timely and in the right doses by applying the necessary fertilizers. Before planting, it is recommended to pickle radish seeds in a solution of Rovral, Horus, Topaz. The carriers of the virus are many insects, for example, weevils, aphids, and ticks. We must not forget about the fight against them.

Etching in Rovral's solution is a good prevention, but not absolutely guaranteed protection against the mosaic virus

Powdery mildew

A very common disease, not a single garden crop is immune from it. Leaves and petioles are covered with a layer of powdery whitish or pale gray coating, reminiscent of scattered flour. If you do nothing, it becomes denser and changes color, turning into large brown spots with black blotches on the surface. The tissues affected by the fungus die off, holes are formed. The sheet plates are deformed. As a rule, the leaves closest to the soil are infected first.

Powdery mildew on the leaves seems to be a harmless coating that can be easily erased, but in fact it is a dangerous disease.

Most often, radishes are affected by powdery mildew in hot, humid weather. Another risk factor is sudden temperature changes. The fungus is spread by the wind, with water droplets, and by direct contact with infected and healthy plants. The yield falls by 50% or more, and the quality of root crops also decreases.

For the prevention of powdery mildew, as a rule, folk remedies are sufficient. Radish is sprayed at least once a week with a solution of colloidal sulfur, infusion of wood ash, sour milk or sour milk, diluted water, decoction of horsetail rhizomes. If time has already been lost and the fungus has spread en masse, copper-containing preparations are used - fungicides. The experience of gardeners shows that Skor, Quadris, Raek, Fundazim give the best effect in the fight against powdery mildew. From drugs of biological origin - Alirin-B, Gamair, Planriz. But some also rely on the old time-tested remedies - copper sulfate, Bordeaux liquid.

Wood ash is not only a source of potassium and phosphorus, it helps to destroy the spores of pathogenic fungi

Video: how to protect plants from powdery mildew

Peronosporosis (downy mildew)

The characteristic symptoms appear primarily on the leaves. They are covered with small angular spots with a seemingly oily surface. Gradually, their color changes from salad to straw yellow and dark brown. If the weather is wet, the inside of the leaf is covered with a continuous layer of greyish-purple bloom, reminiscent of felt. The whole process takes 10-13 days.

Peronosporosis develops quickly enough, so you should not hesitate to take measures

To prevent the development of the disease, radishes are sprayed twice with boric acid diluted in water (10-15 g per 10 l) or Pseudobacterin, Rizoplan during the growing season. From folk remedies, an infusion of onion or garlic arrows, wormwood is used. The seeds are soaked in a solution of Bud, Energen, potassium humate, Fitosporin-M. To combat the disease, the same drugs are used that are recommended for the destruction of the fungus that causes powdery mildew.

Garlic is a plant that produces phytoncides that kill disease-causing fungi

Brown spots spread on root crops, quickly tightening with a layer of “fluffy” gray-gray bloom with small black “specks”. The tissues under them soften and rot, the stem and petioles become watery, the leaves lose their tone. High humidity combined with low air temperature contributes to the development of the disease.

It is impossible to eat any fruits affected by gray rot

To prevent the development of gray rot, wood ash is periodically introduced into the soil, the plants are powdered with colloidal sulfur or crushed activated carbon. They can also be sprayed with mustard powder or iodine diluted with water (50 g or 10 drops per 10 liters, respectively). Several crystals of potassium permanganate are added to the water for irrigation every 7-10 days. It is useful to surround the garden with plants that produce natural phytoncides - marigolds, calendula, nasturtiums.

Marigolds are not only a beautiful, but also a very useful plant.

If gray rot is noticed on time, the plants and soil are treated with the following solution - for 10 liters of water, take a glass of sifted wood ash and crushed chalk, add 10-12 ml of copper sulfate. In case of mass infection, Teldor, Horus, Switch, Gamair are used. But this no longer guarantees success.

Vascular bacteriosis

Most often, the disease affects adult plants, seedlings are practically not affected by it. The veins on the leaves turn black, then spots of the same color spread around them. The leaf plate turns yellow, as if "crumbling". Radish growth slows down, the petioles are deformed.

Adult radish most often suffers from vascular bacteriosis already at the stage of root crop formation

Risk factors - high humidity, heat, mechanical damage. The disease is transmitted by insects, raindrops. The bacterium lives in plant debris, unripe manure, remains in seeds from infected plants, maintaining its viability for 2-3 seasons. For disinfection, the planting material is immersed in hot (45–50 ° C) water for 15–20 minutes immediately before planting.

To prevent infection, 10–12 days after the emergence of seedlings, radish seedlings are sprayed with Planriz or Trichodermin. In the early stages of infection, radishes can be saved by treating them with Binoram or Phytolavin. If the disease has gone far in its development, the plants can no longer be helped.

Fitolavin is a popular drug that increases plant immunity

"Blackleg"

Fungal disease affecting mainly young seedlings. Adult, mature plants have sufficient resistance. The base of the stem turns black and becomes thinner, the seedlings fall on the ground under their own weight. The leaves turn yellow, the plant dries up. The disease develops quite quickly, as a rule, the affected plants can no longer be helped. But it is quite realistic to prevent the appearance of the "black leg".

"Black leg" can deprive the gardener of the radish harvest already at the stage of germination

The most important preventive measure is proper watering. The fungus also loves stale air (when growing radishes in a greenhouse, it must be regularly ventilated), heat and acidified substrate. Seeds are sown on time, not earlier. Low temperatures and lack of light negatively affect plant immunity.

Seeds must undergo pre-planting preparation. They are soaked in an infusion of garlic gruel, a dark raspberry solution of potassium permanganate. The soil in the garden bed 3-4 days before planting the radish is spilled with a solution of colloidal sulfur or hot water, and immediately after the procedure it is sprinkled with a thin layer of fine sand. Crushed charcoal or chalk is poured to the bases of the stems of the seedlings that have appeared, the plants themselves are powdered with sifted wood ash. Water for irrigation is periodically replaced with a solution of Fitosporin-M or Baktofit, reducing its concentration by half compared to that recommended by the manufacturer. Folk remedies - infusion of onion peel or marigold greens.

Infusion of onion peels is an effective means of preventing "black leg"

Finding that several plants have become infected, sharply reduce watering to the required minimum, allowing the soil to dry well. The soil is loosened, adding granules of Trichodermin, Glyokladin, Barrier in the process.

Video: methods of dealing with the "black leg"

Common pests affecting radishes

There are a lot of pests that can cause significant damage to radishes. These are insects that infect exclusively Cruciferous plants, and "omnivores" that attack most other garden crops.

Small (up to 0.3 cm in diameter) black beetles, shimmering golden in the sun, turn radish leaves into a sieve in a very short time. They have very good jumping ability, due to which they cover considerable distances relatively quickly. The pest waits out the winter in the upper layers of the soil, under fallen leaves. Females of the cruciferous flea lay eggs on the leaves, the larvae hatching from them devour the roots of the plants. Insects do not like heat and high humidity; in such weather, their activity decreases sharply.

In the heat, especially if it rains frequently, the activity of the cruciferous flea beetle sharply decreases

In order to scare off the cruciferous flea from the beds, the soil where radish shoots have appeared is sprinkled with a mixture of sifted ash with crushed dried tobacco leaves, ground pepper, mustard powder. You can simply prevent the pest from entering the garden bed if you tighten it with any air-permeable white covering material. During the growing season, radishes are treated with infusion of dandelion leaves, tomato tops or potatoes, diluted in water with vinegar (25–30 ml of essence per 10 l) every 5–7 days. Along the perimeter, the beds are surrounded by a naphthalene barrier.

The cruciferous flea cannot stand the smell of vinegar

In the event of a mass invasion, chemicals are used. Decis, Sherpa, Aktara, Lightning show themselves in the best way. An alternative is a flea shampoo for pets (40-50 ml per 10 liters). You can also catch bugs by hand by building something like a flag. A piece of cloth is attached in a stick, smeared with something sticky and passed over the tops of the radish.

Caterpillars of a butterfly belyanka

Females lay eggs on leaves, the first generation of larvae hatch in late June, the second in September. Striped greenish-yellow caterpillars are able to eat a plant in a few days, leaving only petioles from the leaves of the radish.

There is hardly a gardener who has never seen the white butterfly, also known as the cabbage

When the first butterflies appear in the garden, in order not to allow them to lay eggs, the soil and the plants themselves are sprayed with infusions of any herbs with a pungent characteristic odor (wormwood, tomato tops, rosemary, basil, sage). Of the chemicals, Entobacterin, Bitoxibacillin, Lepidocid are used for the same purpose. You can also tighten the garden bed with a fine mesh, add a few drops of lavender or any citrus essential oil to the water for irrigation. Traps are hung next to it - cut-off plastic bottles filled with sugar syrup, honey or jam diluted with water. A similar effect is obtained with fly sticky tape.

Whitefish caterpillars can eat a plant in a matter of days

Experienced gardeners advise to "trick" the butterflies by scattering pieces of eggshell around the garden. Their insects are mistaken for "congeners" and fly further, being sure that "the place is already taken."

Caterpillars are destroyed with the help of Kinmix, Sumi-Alpha, Aktellik. You can make them leave the garden by dusting the soil with wood ash mixed with any spice or spice - mustard, cinnamon, saffron, ginger.

Spring cabbage fly

It can cause very serious harm to radish plantings. The peak of its activity falls on the second half of May and the beginning of June (you can focus on the beginning of flowering of lilac and bird cherry). Just at this time, gardeners are actively planting culture. Females lay eggs in the upper layers of the soil, the larvae penetrate the roots and eat them out from the inside, severely damaging the emerging roots, then turn into petioles. The plant withers, the leaves acquire an unnatural bluish tint.

Adults of the cabbage fly do not harm plants, but this does not mean that they do not need to be dealt with.

To scare off the cabbage fly, the garden bed is sprinkled with a mixture of tobacco dust with camphor and dry bay leaf crushed to a powdery state 3–5 days after the emergence of shoots. It is recommended to plant marigolds, parsley, celery, coriander around the perimeter and in the aisles. Materials with a rather coarse texture are used as mulch - wood chips, sawdust. Also, all measures are applicable to scare off white butterflies.

Cabbage fly larvae penetrate the plant tissue through the roots

In the event of a mass invasion of caterpillars, chemicals are used. Karate, Antio, Iskra-Bio, Rovikurt have recommended themselves in the best way. They also do not tolerate ammonia and vinegar. For 10 liters of water, 5 ml is enough.

It is very difficult not to notice the pest on radishes. Its red-black striped and mottled color contrasts very effectively with the bright green leaves. Females lay eggs on leaves, hatched from them individuals overwinter in fallen leaves and other plant debris. They come out of hibernation in the second half of April or early May, the period of their activity continues until August. Radish gets maximum damage in hot dry weather. Bed bugs feed on plant sap. Where mechanical damage was inflicted by them, "wounds" remain, gradually turning into areas of dead tissue with a yellowish border.

It is very difficult not to notice a cruciferous bug on a plant.

The experience of gardeners proves that the pest does not tolerate the smell of tansy. It is useful to plant this plant around the perimeter of a garden bed with radishes or periodically spray it with infusion of herbs. A good effect of dates are tampons moistened with kerosene or turpentine and spread out in the aisles.

Tansy planted nearby will effectively protect the radish garden from cruciferous ticks

Having found the first pests on the plant, you can simply collect them by hand. To make them go away, radishes and soil in the garden are sprayed with extracts of chamomile, onion husks. The most effective chemicals are Phosbecid, Belofos, Aktara.

An inconspicuous grayish-brown butterfly does no harm to plants. What can not be said about its larvae. Yellowish caterpillars, gradually changing their color to light green, eat out longitudinal tunnels in leaf tissues. Then they come to the surface and continue to feed on them. Affected leaf plates turn pale and dry. Insects wake up from hibernation as soon as the air warms up to 10 ° C, their activity does not stop until October-November. The maximum harm to radishes is caused in the heat with a prolonged absence of precipitation.

Cabbage moth is a very nondescript butterfly

Folk remedies in the fight against a pest do not give a special effect. The maximum that they can - slightly slow down the activity of the caterpillars. Recommend, for example, an infusion of dried lavender or the peel of any citrus. Therefore, in order to destroy them, you will have to resort to chemicals - Ambush, Nurell-D, Talkord. Adult butterflies are scared away using the methods recommended for whitewash control.

Folk remedies in the fight against cabbage moth larvae are ineffective

For some reason, they also have a special love for the color yellow. This can be used by making traps from pieces of cardboard or plywood of the appropriate shade, smeared with something sticky and long-drying.

The butterfly is dirty yellow in color with vague brown spots and strokes on the wings. It is nocturnal, so it is quite difficult to notice its appearance in time. Its caterpillars, as it were, scrape off the top layer of tissue from the leaves, leaving "indentations" - the gate for all kinds of infections and other pests. The characteristic lesions are especially noticeable on the wrong side of the sheet.

It is problematic to notice the appearance of a cabbage fire - it is active mainly at night.

Adults are destroyed using traps. A light source is placed in a cut plastic bottle, smearing its walls with something sticky. You can also use Bitoxibacillin, Dendrobacillin. Against caterpillars, the best effect is given by the drugs Anometrin, Ripkord, Sumicidin, Gomelin. If you managed to notice their appearance on time, folk remedies help well, but they do not have any negative effect on the eggs of the fire. Radish and soil in the garden are recommended to be treated with infusion of sifted wood ash, tomato tops.

Caterpillars of cabbage fire can be driven out of the garden with the help of folk remedies, but the eggs will not suffer from this.

The caterpillar of the rapeseed sawfly is colored greenish-gray or olive with brown longitudinal stripes and a slightly lighter belly. The adult is extremely small - the body length does not exceed 6–8 mm, the body and limbs are of a bright saffron hue, the head is black, as if varnished. The pest eats the leaves almost completely, leaving only the petioles. Radish dries and dies, roots are not formed. A gardener who does nothing can lose 80–95% of the entire crop.

The rapeseed sawfly, as the name suggests, has a special penchant for rapeseed, but also does not disdain radish.

For prophylaxis, before planting, radish seeds are soaked in a solution of Karate or Actellik for 10-15 minutes. Adults are scared away from planting with Bitoxibacillin. From folk remedies for treating plants and soil, you can use extracts of chamomile, pine needles, tansy, aconite (the latter is very poisonous). Caterpillars effectively destroy Mospilan, Kinmix, Arrivo, Fury. If there are still few of them, you can spray the plantings with soda ash or baking soda diluted in water, mustard powder (40-50 g per 10 l).

Many common general-purpose insecticides are used to control rape sawfly larvae.

The bug looks pretty nice - lacquered black, in the sun it casts blue-green (this is what it owes its nickname "sparkle" or "sparkle"). It waits out winter in the upper layers of the soil, as soon as the air warms up to 10–12 ° C, it wakes up and goes outside. As a rule, it causes the greatest damage to rapeseed (hence the name), eating away flower buds from the inside, but it does not disdain other Cruciferous (even wild ones), in particular, radishes. Crop losses range from 20 to 70%. It depends on how purposefully the gardener is fighting the pest. The peak of its activity lasts from the second half of May to the end of June.

The rape flower beetle reaches its peak in late spring or early summer.

Folk remedies in this case do not give any effect at all. Therefore, having found the first individuals on the plants, any insecticides from the pyrethroid group are used. The most popular of them are Karate, Zeon, Kinmiks, Fastak. You can try to "distract" him from the radish by planting some rapeseed or rapeseed nearby.

Literally 2-3 rapeseed bushes planted in the garden can distract the rapeseed beetle from more important crops for the gardener

Slugs

Grayish-beige molluscs devoid of their shells, feeding on roots and radish greens. They can destroy young shoots completely. In adult specimens, large holes are eaten out in leaf tissues, through "tunnels" are made in root crops. A sticky trail remains on the surface, casting silvery in the sun. Slugs do not like heat and dry air, so they prefer to hide during the day (for example, under stones, boards, leaves), leading a predominantly nocturnal lifestyle.

Radish, damaged by slugs, sharply loses in keeping quality and presentability

It is quite difficult to remove slugs. It is much easier to prevent them from appearing in the garden. For this, they construct several traps - deep containers dug into the soil, about half filled with chopped cabbage, kvass, beer, fermented compote or jam. The bases of the root crops are surrounded by a “barrier” of wood ash, crushed chalk, sand, pine needles, ground nuts or eggshells. Any spicy aromatic herbs and other plants with a strong aroma are planted around the beds and in the aisles. Fresh nettle or wormwood leaves can also be placed there.

Slugs do not have even minimal protection, so the needles serve as an insurmountable barrier for them.

Slugs have natural enemies - birds, frogs, hedgehogs. It is not so difficult to attract them to your own site. You can, for example, build a birdhouse or a small pond, periodically display plates of milk, and so on.

Having found several individuals, the radish and soil in the garden are sprayed with infusion of chili peppers or mustard powder diluted in water. There are, although extremely rare, cases of mass invasion of slugs. Then you can't do without chemicals. From the best side, the preparations Meta, Groza, Slizneed have proven themselves.

Video: ways to deal with slugs

Aphid

An extremely "omnivorous" pest that does not disdain the absolute majority of horticultural crops. Radish is no exception. Aphids are small greenish-yellow, pale-green or black-brown insects. It feeds on plant sap, attacking it with whole colonies. Many insects stick to the underside of leaves, especially young ones. Affected areas of tissue become discolored, in the light they look like small translucent beige dots. The leaves are deformed, turn yellow and dry.

Aphids affect the vast majority of horticultural crops

Aphids live in stable symbiosis with ants. It is impossible to get it out of the garden unless you simultaneously take care of the fight against these insects too.

It is impossible to remove aphids from the garden area without first getting rid of the ants

Aphids do not like strong strong odors. Therefore, spicy herbs, onions, garlic, fennel, marigolds, calendula, lavender will be good neighbors for radishes. Many of them are good honey plants, attracting the attention of the natural enemy of aphids - the ladybug. From their greens, infusions are prepared, which are sprayed on plants and soil. Other suitable raw materials are orange peels, pine needles, dry tobacco leaves, mustard powder.

On the contrary, there are plants that attract aphids. These are, for example, nasturtium, petunias, viburnum, linden, bird cherry.

Having found the first individuals, the radishes are sprayed with household foam, green potash or tar soap. After about half an hour, it will need to be washed off with clean water. Then apply the same infusions that were used for prophylaxis, reducing the intervals between treatments from 8-10 days to 6-8 hours.

In the event of a mass invasion of aphids, any general-purpose insecticides are used. The most popular drugs are Inta-Vir, Konfidor-Maxi, Iskra-Bio, Admiral, Tanrek.

Video: how to deal with aphids in the garden

The beetle affects the plantings of Cruciferous plants, including radishes, in most of Russia, with the exception of the Far East and Eastern Siberia. Its color is very interesting - a bottle-green body with dark brown paws. The elytra seem to be embossed; eight dents, similar to points, are clearly visible on the head. Beetles begin to show activity in early June.

Babanukha is also known by the nickname "shitty leaf beetle"

The pest gradually eats up the leaf plate, "scraping" layers of tissue. The leaves become thinner, acquire an unnatural rusty hue, and become as if "rotten". Through holes with ragged edges gradually appear. Females lay eggs in cracks in affected tissues; larvae hibernate in soil.

For prophylaxis, the soil in the garden is sprinkled with a mixture of ash, mustard powder and ground hot pepper. The radish itself is sprayed with vinegar diluted with water (15–20 ml of essence per 10 liters of water). Other popular folk remedies are infusion of tomato tops, chamomile, yarrow.

Cut stepchildren of tomatoes can be used to prepare an infusion that repels many pests

On plants, beetles are very conspicuous, so you can simply collect them by hand. But it takes a long time. It is much faster to shake them off on an oilcloth or newspaper spread on the garden bed. It is best to carry out the procedure early in the morning, when they are not very active. Of the insecticides, Sherpa, Angio, Fury, Aktara are the most effective.

Radish is one of the easiest crops to grow. Caring for her, in fact, is reduced to the necessary minimum. The vegetable rarely suffers from diseases and pests, but nevertheless it is not completely immune from this. To avoid losing a significant part or all of the crop, you need to regularly inspect the plantings for suspicious symptoms. And if any are identified, use the recommended folk remedies or chemicals. The best thing is not to forget about preventive measures. As a rule, there are enough of them to avoid infection.

Gardeners are well aware of how difficult it is to achieve a large harvest in the beds, if you do not fight pests. Even the smallest insects can cause tremendous damage to vegetable crops.

This insect got its name due to its taste preferences - it really loves cruciferous plants. In the field, the flea feasts on weeds (rape, yarok, shepherd's bag), and in the gardens it eats turnips, turnips, radishes.

Gardeners without experience sometimes do not even pay attention to a small insect jumping like a flea (hence it got its name). It would seem that such a trifle cannot cause much trouble. But if measures are not taken in time, the flea can destroy plants in the beds in a matter of days.