Thermal insulation of external walls is the most common method of reliable insulation of old houses and buildings made using modern technologies. A wide range of materials allows you to make the right choice for an individual building and an apartment building. The main thing, when choosing, is to know the negative and positive properties of the material for external wall insulation.
The advantages of this method of saving heat include 5 main advantages:
- When installed, wall panels receive guaranteed protection against sudden temperature changes at different times of the year. Therefore, the scheme will save residents from severe frost, but also protect them from the heat in summer. With high-quality performance of work, the formation of a cold bridge and heat loss is prevented.
- Such a device does not affect the internal dimensions of the building and its useful total area.
- Insulation installed outside protects the interior from mold and dampness.
- The work does not require a lot of time and money. But thermal insulation with the help of materials has a sufficient level of protection of the building in comparison with the lining of the building with additional rows of bricks or foam concrete.
- The appearance of the wall improves, the level of sound insulation increases.
All the advantages are the same for each material, but some of them will require a thicker layer or money to purchase and install thermal insulation layers.
Types of thermal insulation for outdoor protection
In modern conditions, the industry develops and produces new substances that are used to perform thermal protection of a building or apartment. Each product will require the use of a variety of tools and methods for applying the protective coating to the walls.
They have their advantages and disadvantages, the degree of frost resistance and moisture resistance, for all these qualities, the most common materials for protecting walls are:
- foam plates;
- mineral wool;
- polyurethane foam;
- expanded polystyrene;
- wall treatment with liquid thermal insulation.
These are the main coatings of the external surfaces of the building, in order to make the right choice, it is better to know their pros and cons in more detail.
Insulating walls with foam sheets
This is one of the most common methods in terms of value for money. To install a protective layer, no special skills are required; a beginner will also cope with the work. The calculation of the amount of material depends on the total area of the wall. In this case, it is imperative that they are determined with the required density and thickness of the foam sheets. The optimal level of protection depends on these values.
For installation, a special cement-glue mixture is used; for the reliability of fastening, it is possible to use special dowels. This is a very inexpensive and easy way. It has proven itself very well in low temperature environments.
Mineral wool for outdoor surfaces
Walls outside houses can be insulated with this roll material. At a low price, it has good insulating properties. The industry produces several types of this insulation:
- glass wool;
- slag wool, made from waste of open-hearth furnaces;
- stone rocks serve as the basis for the production of basalt wool.
It is the most inexpensive material for external wall insulation. To give the best chemical and operational properties, the boards are treated with special substances. Polymer impregnation is used to make the material water-repellent.
Wall treatment with polyurethane foam solution
With this method, a layer of protective material is sprayed on the surface of the outer walls. To obtain a solution, the equipment is used to mix the polyol and the polyurethane. At the same time, the product is foaming with the help of carbon dioxide. The finished mixture enters the assembly gun.
The product is supplied under pressure, sprayed, and evenly laid on the walls. At the same time, the use of adhesives is not required, after applying a layer of polyurethane foam, installation of a fiberglass mesh will be required to impart strength and finishing with finishing materials takes place on top of it. To achieve the ratio of the layer size and thermal insulation properties, the best option would be to use outside, insulation with a density of 30 kg / m3.
Surface treatment with expanded polystyrene
One of the leaders in the market for wall insulation outside the house. Inexpensive, easy to handle and install, with excellent thermal insulation characteristics, expanded polystyrene allows it to be installed on most residential buildings. Available in 2 types:
- Extrusive. A substance with a denser and stronger structure. It is obtained by punching high-viscosity melt-based materials. In this way, extrusion-type insulation plates are formed.
- Uncompressed. Marking PSB-S means non-pressed self-extinguishing expanded polystyrene. A distinctive feature of this material is its granular structure. The sizes of the granules change from 5 mm. up to 15 mm. The two-digit number after the marking indicates the density of the material. Produced using the high temperature sintering method.
Plates are produced with special groove-ridges and grooves. At -250, a 50 mm thick slab provides excellent thermal conductivity for walls made from basic building materials.
Application of liquid thermal insulation
These modern materials are the most modern insulation outside the building. They are used for application to metal parts and as insulation of buildings from a foam block. When used outside the home, this ceramic inter-component resembles applied acrylic paint.
But the voids contained in the material play the role of insulation. This ensures a sufficient level of thermal insulation outside the building. The thermal conductivity level of liquid sealants is close to zero vacuum heat transfer. The method is very simple and does not require the involvement of specialists. It is applied to all wall surfaces from any building materials. To do this, it is necessary to paint the walls outside the building with manual or hydraulic painting tools, filling in all the voids and irregularities in the surface.
After 6 hours, the surface is completely dry. In this case, a coating is formed with a solid, resistant to mechanical damage, layer of insulation. The level of low thermal conductivity allows the substance to be applied in a thin layer, reducing heat loss through the walls. At very low and high temperatures, there is no better tool that can work at temperatures - 600 and +2600. At the same time, not only walls are protected from solar radiation, but also metal parts.
Another advantage of using liquid thermal insulation of walls outside the building is a low level of moisture absorption, not exceeding 4 tenths of a percent of the mass of the substance layer. This method of protection will also be better in terms of waterproofing the surface of the walls and the formation of condensation drips on them.
This type of insulation protects the room from the formation of mold and mildew, and also protects the interior rooms from freezing in very severe frosts and from the heat at high summer temperatures.
In conclusion, a few conclusions
Each of the listed materials used as insulation for external walls must fulfill its main purpose. First of all - to insulate a private household or an apartment in an apartment building. And then already isolate the premises from moisture, draft, but the main thing is to keep the warmth in the house.
Which insulation is better or worse depends on the individual capabilities of the owners of the premises and the conditions for its use. One of the main advantages of all the listed materials is the sufficient ease of application at a low cost of materials. Only for polyurethane foam insulation, the use of a special tool is required. In all other cases, work is carried out with a minimum stock of tools.
After the introduction of a new standard for thermal protection of buildings, insulation became relevant even for those houses that were previously considered “safe”. Owners of old buildings can do nothing, but must be prepared to pay the growing energy bills. And projects of new houses will not be approved if they do not meet the requirements of SNiP 23-02-2003. There are several technologies available to meet regulatory performance requirements for buildings of any material. The main thing is to choose the right insulation for the walls of the house outside in each case.
Keep the house warm Source prolesa.com.ua
Why external insulation, and not internally
The most understandable argument for a layman sounds very convincing, although this is a minor factor - insulation from the inside “takes away” the useful volume of residential and office premises.
Builders are guided by the standard, according to which insulation must be external (SP 23-101-2004). Insulation from the inside is not directly prohibited, but it can only be carried out in exceptional cases. For example, when it is impossible to carry out work from the outside due to the design features or the facade "belongs" to a house that belongs to architectural monuments.
Video description
The result of the correct internal insulation of the house in the video:
Internal wall insulation is allowed provided a durable and continuous vapor barrier is created from the side of the room. But this is not easy to do, and if warm air with water vapor enters the insulation or on the surface of a cold wall, then the appearance of condensation is inevitable. And this is due to the "dew point", which will move either inside the layer of heat-insulating material, or to the border between it and the wall.
Even such protection from the inside will not provide a 100% guarantee against wetting the wall - water vapor will find a "way" in the joints of the film and in the attachment points Source domvpavlino.ru
That is, when deciding how to properly insulate a house, in the overwhelming majority of cases, the answer will be based on clear regulatory recommendations - from the outside.
Popular thermal insulation materials
From a large list of thermal insulation materials, several of the most popular and those that are used if the budget allows or for other reasons can be distinguished. Traditionally, the popularity of materials is determined by a combination of good thermal insulation characteristics and a relatively low cost.
- Expanded polystyrene
Better known as "styrofoam". To be precise, in addition to slabs, this material is also used in granular form as bulk thermal insulation.
Its thermal conductivity depends on density, but on average it is one of the lowest in its class. Thermal insulation properties are provided by a cellular structure filled with air. The popularity is due to the availability, ease of installation, good compressive strength, low water absorption. That is, it is cheap, rather durable (as part of the structure) and is not afraid of water.
Polyfoam is considered to be slightly flammable, and with the PSB-S marking - self-extinguishing (does not support combustion). But in the event of a fire, it emits poisonous gases, and this is one of the main reasons why it cannot be used for insulation from the inside. Its second drawback is its low vapor permeability, which imposes restrictions on its use when insulating walls made of "breathing" materials.
Insulation of the wall of the house outside with foam
- Extruded polystyrene foam
It differs from polystyrene in a fundamentally different manufacturing technology, although the same polystyrene granules serve as raw materials. According to some indicators, he surpasses his "relative". It has the same percentage of water absorption (no more than 2%), on average 20-30% lower thermal conductivity (table D.1 SP 23-101-2004), several times lower vapor permeability and higher compressive strength. Thanks to this set of qualities, it is the best material for warming the foundation and basement, that is, the walls of the basement and the "ground" floor. The disadvantages of EPS are the same as of foam, and it is more expensive.
EPS is usually made "colored" Source footing.ru
- Stone, it is also basalt, cotton wool
This is a subspecies of mineral wool, the raw material of which are rocks of a stone (most often basalt). A completely different type of heat-insulating material, the low thermal conductivity of which is provided due to the fibrous structure and low density. It is inferior to foam and EPS in terms of thermal conductivity (on average 1.5 times higher), but unlike them, it does not burn and does not smolder (NG flammability class). Refers to "breathable" materials - according to the new standard it sounds like low "resistance to air permeation".
Mineral wool mats for wall insulation must be "rigid" Source konveyt.ru
But there are other materials for insulating a house outside, which, although they are used less often, have their own advantages.
Thermal insulation materials - new on the market
Additionally, you can always consider new options - they are slightly more expensive, but often somewhat more effective than traditional ones.
- Foamed polyurethane
Common polymeric material for “household use”. Also well known as furniture foam (in the form of "soft" mats) or as a polyurethane foam for filling cracks. When insulating, it is also used in the form of plates or sprayed insulation.
Polyurethane foam slabs have low peel-off properties, so it is not used in wet facade systems.
But this is a common thermal insulation material for the manufacture of sandwich panels. The same technology underlies the production of thermal panels for facade cladding. Such a panel is a heat-insulating board with a decorative layer already applied at the factory (clinker tiles or stone chips). Two types of insulation: expanded polystyrene and polyurethane foam. In the first case, the thermal panel is two-layer, in the second - three-layer (OSB or moisture-resistant plywood is used as a load-bearing base). Two mounting options: on dowels / anchors (open method) or on your own concealed fastening system.
Three-layer thermal panel Source zafasad.ru
Sprayed PU foam is in demand if it is necessary to create a seamless layer of thermal insulation on complex surfaces. Until recently, there was the only technology for applying such a layer - using professional installations working with a two-component composition (mixing occurs during spraying).
PPU spraying on the basement of the house Source nauka-i-religia.ru
Now in Russia, for domestic use, the production of one-component polyurethane foam has been established, which is produced in an aerosol can with a capacity of 1 liter. As the manufacturers assure (there are two competing companies), do-it-yourself insulation of 1 m2 is much cheaper than when concluding an agreement with specialized enterprises using professional equipment. And this option is rather attractive than to insulate the house from the outside, if literally 2-3 cm of the heat-insulating layer is not enough.
Thermal insulation using sprayed polyurethane foam "Teplis" Source m.2gis.kz
- Ecowool
A relatively new thermal insulation material. The technology of insulation of enclosing surfaces is based on a material made of cellulose fiber, which is applied to the walls using a special installation. There are two options for insulation: filling the plane between the wall and the cladding, spraying it together with an adhesive binder on the wall with the crate installed (and subsequent installation of the front panels).
Of the traditional materials, one can mention glass wool (a subspecies of mineral wool), but due to fragility and the formation of the smallest "dust" with sharp edges during installation, it was replaced by stone wool, which is safe both during installation and during operation.
The better to insulate the house from the outside - standards for the number of layers
If you follow the regulatory documents, there are two options for insulating a house from the outside in terms of the number of structural and thermal insulation layers: two-layer and three-layer. Moreover, in the second case, external decoration with panels or plaster is not considered an independent layer, although their thermal insulation properties are taken into account. In three-layer walls, structural material acts as the outer (third) layer.
Brick cladding with insulation
In addition to this classification, there is also a division according to the presence of a ventilated and non-ventilated layer.
- brickwork, reinforced concrete (with flexible ties), expanded clay concrete - all types of solutions;
- wooden houses - enclosing structures with two-layer, three-layer walls and with a ventilated air gap;
- frame houses with thin-sheet sheathing - three-layer walls with thermal insulation in the middle, as well as with a ventilated and non-ventilated air gap;
- aerated concrete blocks - two-layer walls with brick cladding, as well as with a ventilated or non-ventilated layer.
In practice, for the insulation of low-rise buildings, such a variety of solutions comes down to the choice between a "wet" or hinged facade. Although it is the ones recommended by the standard that are considered as heat-insulating materials - mineral wool or expanded polystyrene (as an alternative - EPS).
But each case has its own preferences.
Video description
Clearly about the choice of how to insulate the house from the outside in the video:
The better to insulate the house from the outside, depending on the wall material
There are no restrictions on the choice of technology for insulating a brick house. Different options can be considered only depending on the chosen method of finishing the facade:
- Facing brick. This is a classic three-layer wall structure with flexible ties. Even using expanded polystyrene, a ventilated air gap is provided for weathering water vapor and preventing the wall materials from getting wet.
- Wet facade. You can use mineral wool and expanded polystyrene. The first option is preferable - ceramic bricks have a higher vapor permeability than foam. And according to clause 8.5 of SP 23-101-2004, the location of the layers should contribute to the weathering of water vapor in order to prevent the accumulation of moisture.
Wet Facade Scheme Source deskgram.net
- Ventilated facade. With cladding with wall panels or large-format porcelain stoneware on the lathing. The insulation is traditional for all curtain walls - mineral wool.
Ventilated facade layout Source sk-optimus.com.ua
Wooden houses (logs or beams) are insulated exclusively with mineral wool using the hinged facade technology.
For them, you can find examples of the use of expanded polystyrene and plaster using the "wet facade" method. In this case, a ventilated gap is made between the wall and the foam plates using a distance lathing. However, the main advantage of the "wet facade" - the simplicity of construction and installation - disappears.
How to calculate the thickness of the insulation
If you “look through” SP23-101-2004 or similar in content, but a later set of rules SP 50.13330.2012, you can see that it is not so easy to calculate the thickness of the insulation.
Each building is "individual". During the development of the project and its approval, such a thermal calculation is done by specialists. And here a whole complex of parameters is taken into account - the characteristics of the region (temperatures, duration of the heated season, the average number of sunny days), the type and area of the house glazing, the heat capacity of the floor covering, the thermal insulation of the roof and basement. Even the amount of metal connections between the wall and the cladding matters.
But if the owner of a previously built house decides to insulate it (and the new norms introduced in 2003 are much tougher than the old ones), then he will have to choose between three parameters of the "standard thickness" of insulation - 50, 100 and 150 mm. And here, the accuracy of the calculations is not needed. There is such a diagram, where the equivalent dimensions of the thickness of different materials (in an average form) are given, the wall of which will meet the new requirements for thermal protection.
Only a house made of aerated concrete blocks with a thickness of 45 cm does not need insulation Source legkovmeste.ru
And then it’s simple. They take the thickness of the wall from a certain material, see how much is missing to the standard. And then they calculate in proportion what thickness of the insulation layer of the wall of the house outside should be added. Taking into account that the wet facade has another layer of plaster, and the ventilated one has an air gap, plus the interior decoration of the facade walls, you can be sure of sufficient thermal protection.
And the issue of roof insulation, floors and the choice of good windows is decided separately.
It's even easier to use one of the many online calculators. The figure here is, of course, approximate, but rounded up to the nearest standard thickness of the insulation, it will give the required result.
How to properly mount insulation on the facade
Before installation, the facade must be prepared: cleaned of old finishes, remove dirt and dust, dismantle hinged elements of engineering systems, remove ebb and canopy (you still have to change to wider ones), remove signs, plaques and facade lamps. Then the surface of the wall must be strengthened - to repair cracks and chips, clean up crumbling areas, apply a deep penetration primer.
Application of the primer composition Source rmnt.ru
To securely attach expanded polystyrene or rigid mineral wool mats in a wet facade system, the wall surface should be as flat as the unevenness can be leveled with adhesive solution. With a height difference of up to 5 mm, the solution is applied over the entire insulation plate, with irregularities from 5 to 20 mm - along the perimeter and in the form of "cakes" on 40% of the plate surface.
The first row of slabs is mounted with an emphasis on the starting bar, which also sets the horizontal level. The second and subsequent rows are set with a shift of the vertical seam (at least 200 mm), leveling the surface of the insulation in the area of \ u200b \ u200bthe joints so that the height difference is no more than 3 mm. When insulating the walls around the openings, make sure that the seams of the slabs do not intersect in their corners. Each plate is additionally fastened with umbrella dowels at the rate of 5 pcs. per 1 m2.
Before applying the plaster, the surface of the slabs is reinforced with fiberglass, fixed in the middle of the layer of adhesive solution with a total thickness of 5-6 mm.
The density of expanded polystyrene is chosen equal to 25-35 kg / m3.
Video description
Clearly about mineral wool insulation in the video:
Mineral wool mats of Russian brands for the "wet facade" system must correspond to the index 175, imported ones must be marked "facade" and the density is higher than 125 kg / m3.
Attention. In the "wet facade" system, the insulation is mounted in only one (!) Layer. A vertical surface of two layers of "soft" boards with a load in the form of plaster behaves unpredictably, especially with changes in temperature and humidity conditions. Do not delude yourself with the arguments that the second layer of slabs overlaps the seams of the first and eliminates the "cold bridges".
The ventilated facade uses rigid mineral wool mats with a density of 80 kg / m3. If the surface of the mats is not laminated, then after attaching them to the lathing, the surface is covered with either fiberglass or a vapor-permeable membrane.
The pitch of the lathing is chosen 2-3 cm less than the width of the mats. In addition to attaching to the crate, the insulation is additionally fixed to the wall with umbrella dowels.
The size of the air gap between the insulation and the cladding should be within 60-150 mm.
Important. Size 40 mm is standardized for non-ventilated air spaces.
For ventilation, the interlayer in the cladding is equipped with inlets in the basement area and outlets under the eaves of the roof. The total area of the holes must be at least 75 cm2 per 20 m2 wall.
Ventilation grilles in the wall Source tproekt.com
As a result - is it worth it to insulate
Home insulation is a profitable investment, even in the short term. The investment will quickly pay off by reducing the cost of heating and air conditioning.
On our site, there are also companies specializing in facade and finishing materials, which are presented at the exhibition of houses Low-rise Country.
In most cases, people are used to insulating houses from the inside, although this is not entirely correct. Thermal insulation of walls with external insulation has a number of advantages over the internal insulation of an apartment. Insulation installed indoors reduces the usable space of rooms, especially when it comes to corner apartments or private housing buildings.
By laying the insulation only on the inner walls of the house, not all energy saving problems can be solved. In such a situation, the building from the outside will still freeze through and accumulate excess moisture, which after a while can penetrate inside the house. Therefore, it is advisable carry out external insulation... But immediately before starting the installation work, you need to learn how to understand the main characteristics of outdoor insulation for walls.
Advantages of external wall insulation
The main advantages of wall insulation outside are saving usable space inside the building, protecting the house from freezing and increasing the overall service life of the building. At the same time, external wall insulation does not increase the load on the structure of the building by the poet and does not put additional pressure on the foundation.
House insulation deserves special attention high degree of protection from freezing. First of all, this is due to the fact that the installation of thermal insulation from the inside prevents heat from escaping from the room to the outside, while the walls continue to freeze at negative temperatures. A zone is formed between the inner walls and the thermal insulation material in which water condenses, accompanying the formation of fungal mold and the rapid cooling of the room under the influence of moisture.
The moisture-soaked insulation inside the room does not dry out even in the summer heat, creating a constant zone of water accumulation, which noticeably affects the service life of the building. When using external insulation for walls, the point of condensation is shifted towards the heat-insulating layer. The walls, insulated from the outside, do not cool down and retain heat, reducing its losses for a long time. External insulating materials quickly lose moisture, retaining their main characteristics, increasing the service life of the walls. To the main advantages external wall insulation, the following characteristics can be attributed:
- saving heat energy in winter;
- keeping cool indoors during the summer heat;
- saving energy when heating or cooling a house;
- increasing the operational resource of the house;
- preventing the development of fungal mold;
- the aesthetic component of outdoor insulation transforms the house.
Another advantage of using external heat-insulating materials is the high sound insulation of the room. If in the buildings of the private sector this issue is not so important, then in large metropolitan areas sound insulation of premises remains relevant.
Requirements for outdoor insulation for walls
Carrying out external thermal insulation work should be comprehensive. This is due to the fact that the correct choice of insulation depends on the material from which the structure is erected. So, for brick houses, familiar foam plastic is most often used. In turn, it is better to insulate wooden buildings with mineral wool. Naturally, the final choice rests with the homeowner. At the same time, when choosing an outdoor insulation for walls, you need to pay attention on the following material characteristics:
But regardless of the insulation used and its main characteristics, the main thing is to try to create a rational thermal insulation structure that will avoid a lot of unwanted problems of external wall insulation. In particular, you need take into account external factors such as rain, snow and other precipitation, as well as a large temperature difference in winter and summer, which must be resisted by the outer thermal insulation material.
Varieties of fastening external insulation
To the most popular ways for installation work on wall insulation with external insulation, the following can be attributed:
Naturally, each version of insulation has its own characteristics and difficulties in implementation. Today, a lot of materials of a combined type are presented on the market, which not only solve the issue of building insulation, but, subject to the installation technology, provide waterproofing and fire safety of the building.
Selection criteria and types of outdoor heaters
Regardless of which thermal insulation material will be chosen by the homeowner, he will cope with the tasks assigned to him. But they all differ in their main characteristics and, of course, in their price, which plays an important role in outdoor insulation. In this case, you have to choose from the following typical materials:
- foam or polystyrene foam plates;
- mineral roll insulation;
- slabs or liquid polyurethane foam;
- basalt insulation;
- cellulose thermal insulation material.
If we consider the main differences between outdoor heaters, then they consist in the degree of moisture resistance, vapor permeability and heat conductivity. At the same time, the first two parameters should be selected based on the climate conditions of the region in which the structure was erected. In turn, the thermal conductivity of the material affects the thickness and installation of the insulation, depending on the goals pursued.
Preparatory stage of insulation works
Having picked up a heat-insulating material suitable for the price and quality, you can proceed to the stage of external wall insulation. But first surface preparation is in progress... If necessary, remove old plaster in some cases to the base of the building. The result of these works should be a flat surface of brick or stone, it all depends on the material used in construction.
An important role is played by the primer, which is often neglected by people conducting self-repairs. If drops or other wall defects are found that exceed a few centimeters, they are sealed with mortar. The most suitable primer is considered to be deep penetration. To obtain an even heat-insulating layer that will not interfere with the next stages of finishing work, you need in advance install lighthouses on a plumb line... This will allow you to outline the outer plane of the wall, which will facilitate installation work.
Self-tapping screws are fixed on the upper edge of the wall surface, to which a construction cord is tied, which is supplied with a load at the end and goes down to the very bottom of the wall. Horizontal ropes are pulled between the outer cords to form a control grid, which will be the main reference point when installing external thermal insulation. Then they move on to fastening sheets of material, the installation of which differs depending on the characteristics of the insulation.
We insulate the wall of the house outside with expanded polystyrene
Insulation sheets are attached to the wall with an adhesive and additionally fixed with dowels. The reliability of the dowels will directly affect the quality of the insulation retention under strong wind loads. In this case, there are two main types of dowels with a standard and extended expansion zone. At the same time, standard fasteners are used to fix polystyrene foam on concrete and brick walls. In turn, it is advisable to use elongated dowels for walls made of porous material - foam block, lightweight concrete, etc..
Plates of polystyrene insulation have one significant drawback - the high flammability of the material. Although manufacturers have been able to solve this problem through the use of new manufacturing technologies. Therefore, it is the resistance of the material to fire that should be given special attention when choosing.
After the adhesive is applied to the wall surface, they begin to fix the plates. The adhesive is applied in a sufficient volume so that the composition completely fills in all the irregularities. The insulation slab is tightly pressed against the wall surface, while excess glue solution comes out from under it, falling under the adjacent slab, making the joints more reliable. After that, the plate is additionally fixed with dowels at the corners and in the center of the product. The adjacent joints of the slabs, as well as the caps of the dowels, are covered with mastic.
After laying the outer insulation perform the reinforcement of the resulting structure... To do this, use a fiberglass mesh, and, if necessary, metal products. The slabs are opened with adhesives, on which the mesh is laid, by pressing against the heat insulator. For greater reliability, the mesh is fastened with an overlap. After the adhesive dries, it is sanded and proceeds to the application of the finishing. The most popular is decorative plaster, which, after drying, is opened with a layer of paint, resistant to atmospheric precipitation.
Liquid polyurethane foam - quality and durability
One of the most interesting and effective ways of exterior wall insulation is polyurethane foam. This liquid insulation has a lot of advantages compared to board materials. The preparation of the material takes place immediately before applying the insulation to the wall surface. In addition, polyurethane foam there are a number of other advantages:
The process of installing polyurethane foam itself consists of spraying a layer of heat-insulating polymers on wall surfaces of any shape, followed by curing of the insulation. In a special container two polymers are mixed foaming by means of carbon dioxide. The resulting composition is sprayed from a pistol onto the wall surface, covering it with a uniform layer.
At the final stage of insulation, a decorative finish is applied over the heat-insulating layer. Thanks to such a finishing coating, the insulation will be completely protected from the effects of external environmental factors. Plus, this will improve the aesthetic appeal of the building.
Only by choosing the right material for external wall insulation and only by observing the technological process of its installation, the homeowner can be sure that his house will be cool in summer and warm in winter for a long time.
Outside insulation gives a much better effect than insulating a house from the inside. In addition to the basic functions, the insulation protects the walls from precipitation, mechanical damage, weathering and thereby prolongs the service life of the entire building. Installation of insulation does not require special knowledge or skills, and most homeowners easily cope with this task on their own. But in order to do everything as efficiently as possible, you need to know what materials are available for insulating walls from the outside, and how to fix them correctly.
Despite the fact that the operating conditions outside and inside the house are strikingly different, in both cases the same materials can be used. Nevertheless, when choosing a heater, preference should be given to those options that best meet the following requirements:
- increased resistance to shrinkage;
- resistance to mechanical damage;
- UV resistance;
- durability;
- ease of installation;
- resistance to insects and microorganisms.
For wooden houses, the vapor transmission capacity of the insulation is also important, because wooden walls must "breathe". As a rule, finishing coatings for facades are designed for long-term operation, and it is too troublesome and not always advisable to remove them every few years in order to replace worn-out thermal insulation. At the same time, if the insulation under the finish shrinks, cracks, starts to rot or is gnawed by mice, it will no longer be able to retain heat, which means that it will not be possible to do without repairs. That is why it is so important that the selected material fully meets the specified criteria.
Types of thermal insulation materials
At the moment, the construction market offers the following materials for house insulation:
All of them differ in technical characteristics, installation technology, and have different service life. Moreover, each of them is suitable for outdoor use and has its own advantages. Let's consider these materials in more detail.
Mineral wool is made from fine fibers obtained by melting and spraying glass, blast furnace slag or rocks. Depending on the location of the fibers, the structure of the insulation can be corrugated, vertically layered and horizontally layered, have different densities and thicknesses. Each type of mineral wool has its own characteristics:
Mineral wool is produced in slabs and mats with various coating options - kraft paper, aluminum foil, fiberglass. Basalt insulation is the most expensive in terms of cost, and the higher its density, the more expensive it is.
Benefits of mineral wool:
- fine-fiber structure contributes to the free passage of air and water vapor, so the risk of condensation on the insulated surface is minimal;
- thanks to the mineral base, the material is not subject to combustion, which means it is an additional protection for walls from fire;
- the insulation has a relatively high moisture resistance, and therefore effectively prevents the penetration of dampness into the house;
- mineral wool perfectly absorbs sounds and vibrations, and street noise almost does not penetrate into the insulated room;
- the insulation is lightweight, easy to process, thanks to its elasticity, it quickly restores its shape after crumpling during installation;
- microorganisms, insects do not develop in mineral wool, rodents do not like it.
Disadvantages:
- Mineral wool tends to shrink, and the lower the density of the material, the faster deformations occur. Rigid basalt slabs are least susceptible to shrinkage, but due to the high cost, not everyone can afford such thermal insulation;
- with prolonged wetting, the insulation is saturated with moisture and loses its thermal insulation qualities;
- Microscopic fibers are easily destroyed when the material is squeezed and cut, and then deposited on the skin, causing irritation, can get into the eyes and lungs. Glass wool is considered the most dangerous in this regard, but with other types of mineral wool, at least gloves and a respirator should be used.
Popular brands of mineral wool.
| Name | Brief characteristics |
|---|---|
| Basalt insulation with increased rigidity, produced in the form of plates with a thickness of 25 to 180 mm. Suitable for all types of facades, can be used as a base for plastering. Differs in resistance to deformation and shrinkage, water resistance, low thermal conductivity, absolutely non-flammable. Fastening with dowels and glue |
| A type of glass wool with various additives that improve the characteristics of the insulation. It is produced in slabs and rolls, there are options with a foil coating. It is widely used for insulation of all types of facades, frame structures, internal partitions, roofing systems |
| Fiberglass insulation that does not contain formaldehyde additives. Produced in plates and rolls, it is distinguished by biological and chemical resistance, elasticity, good vapor permeability. Material thickness - from 5 to 10 cm |
| Glass wool insulation with a high content of water repellents. It is produced in the form of rolls, mats, rigid and semi-rigid plates, 50-100 mm thick. Suitable for all types of surfaces, ventilated facades, frame structures |
Prices for mineral wool
Polyfoam and EPS
Heaters based on expanded polystyrene are excellent heat insulators due to their closed cellular structure. Almost 98% of the material is air or inert gas, enclosed in sealed cells, so the insulation weighs very little. Both polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam practically do not absorb moisture, which means they are excellent for insulating foundations, plinths, basements. For thermal insulation of facades, these materials serve as the basis for applying plaster.
Advantages:
- polystyrene foam insulation weighs little and is easy to process during installation, so a beginner can also cope with this. In addition, such thermal insulation does not exert a large load on the base, which means that there is no need for additional reinforcement of the supporting structures;
- microorganisms cannot develop in expanded polystyrene, therefore, fungi and mold are not afraid of insulation;
- with proper installation, these materials serve for a long time, especially EPS - up to 50 years;
- foam and EPS are resistant to soap and salt solutions, alkalis, bleach and other chemically aggressive substances;
- installation does not require the use of protective equipment in the form of a respirator or gloves, since the insulation does not emit toxic fumes or small particles, does not cause irritation.
Disadvantages:
- expanded polystyrene refers to vapor-proof materials, and therefore cannot be used for thermal insulation of wooden walls;
- the insulation collapses upon contact with solvents, drying oil, some types of varnishes, as well as under the influence of sunlight;
- soundproofing properties are much lower than that of mineral wool insulation;
- already at + 30 degrees, polystyrene foam begins to emit harmful substances - toluene, styrene, formaldehyde and others. When burning, the amount of toxic emissions increases significantly.
In the domestic market, domestic-made EPSPs - "Penoplex" and "Tepleks", as well as expanded polystyrene insulation of the brands Ursa, GREENPLEX, PRIMAPLEX are in great demand.
Styrofoam prices
Styrofoam
Cellulose insulation
Cellulose insulation, also called ecowool, is made from waste paper and waste paper. Ecowool is 80% cellulose fibers, the remaining 20% are antiseptics and fire retardants. The material is tightly packed into all irregularities and voids and forms a dense seamless coating with high vapor permeability. Installation of insulation is carried out in two ways - dry and wet-glue, and both options can be performed either manually or using a special installation.
The dry method allows you to perform thermal insulation in a short time and immediately start finishing. But at the same time, the density of the coating will not be high enough, which will lead to shrinkage and the appearance of cold bridges. In addition, during dry blowing, a large amount of fine dust is formed and you have to work in a respirator.
The wet-glue method ensures better adhesion of the insulation to the base, the layer is much denser and more resistant to shrinkage, which guarantees the durability of the thermal insulation. True, it takes time for the material to dry - from 2 to 3 days, and even more in cold or damp weather. And until the layer is completely dry, you cannot start finishing.
Advantages:
- environmental Safety;
- excellent heat and sound insulation properties;
- resistance to bacteria, fungi, insects;
- fire resistance;
- long service life;
- affordable price.
- tendency to shrinkage;
- high hygroscopicity;
- laboriousness of performing work by hand.
Polyurethane foam
Polyurethane foam, or polyurethane foam, belongs to the new generation of heaters and has improved characteristics compared to traditional materials. It is a liquid polymer mixture, which, after being applied to the surface, hardens and forms a durable coating with a cellular structure. The components are mixed immediately before starting work, and the finished solution is applied by spraying using a special installation.
Advantages:
- the liquid mixture easily fills all irregularities, cracks, recesses, it is conveniently applied in hard-to-reach places;
- the material perfectly retains heat and muffles sounds;
- PPU is resistant to chemically aggressive substances, practically does not absorb water, withstands sudden temperature changes;
- can be applied to any type of surface - wood, concrete, brick, metal;
- the insulation is very light, therefore it does not require reinforcement of the bearing bases;
- the average service life is 25-30 years.
- polyurethane foam is destroyed by exposure to sunlight;
- spraying requires equipment and skills to work with it;
- PPU cannot be used in areas that are very hot;
- high cost of material and services of specialists.
Wall insulation technology
Thermal insulation of the facade can be performed in different ways, depending on the type of insulation. But for all options, a high-quality preparation of the base is a prerequisite, because no insulation can stop the processes of destruction of wall materials. Consider the methods of insulation with mineral wool and polystyrene foam plates, as the most popular in frequent construction.
Mineral wool insulation
External walls are cleaned of dirt, peeling plaster or paint. Cracks and problem areas are repaired, the places affected by the fungus must be treated. Small irregularities do not need to be eliminated - mineral wool insulation is mounted using a frame, so all defects will disappear inside. Finally, the walls are covered with a waterproof primer with antiseptic properties so that mold does not develop under the thermal insulation layer.
Step 1. The bars for the frame are cut to the desired length, treated with antiseptic impregnation on all sides and dried in air.
Advice. The cross-section of the beams should be selected taking into account the thickness of the heat-insulating layer. That is, if slabs with a thickness of 50 mm are stacked in one row, the thickness of the frame should be 5-6 cm, with two-layer laying - at least 11 cm.In the first case, a bar with a section of 50x50 mm is suitable for the racks, in the second - a board of 40x110 mm, installed on the edge.
Step 2. On the walls, markings are made for the frame guides strictly according to the level, holes are drilled for fasteners and beams are installed. The distance between the posts should be 10-15 mm less than the width of the insulation board. During the installation process, the location of the elements is controlled by the building level; if necessary, wooden lining under the timber is used so that all the racks are in the same plane.
Step 3... Insulation is inserted into the cells of the frame. To do this, the plates are slightly squeezed along the edges, pressed between the racks and released. The material spreads out on its own and fills the space tightly. The insulation must be inserted so that there are no gaps between the plates.
Step 4. After filling all the cells from above, the insulation must be closed with a windproof waterproof membrane. The membrane is laid with the marked side out, the canvases are arranged horizontally, starting from the bottom. A construction stapler is used to fix the membrane. The upper fabric is laid with an overlap of 8-10 cm, and it is recommended to glue the joints with tape.
Step 5... On top of the membrane, wooden slats of a counter-lattice with a thickness of 30-40 mm are stuffed to ensure an air gap. If this is not done, condensation will accumulate on the insulation, moisture will saturate the wooden frame and the structure will become unusable faster.
After that, it remains only to mount the topcoat, for example, siding or corrugated board. The finishing must completely cover the thermal insulation layer so that no precipitation falls on the plates. Only under such conditions will the material last a long time and effectively.
The last step is the decorative finishing of the facade
Warming with expanded polystyrene
This method of insulation is markedly different from the previous one. First, the base must be leveled so that the material fits snugly against the surface. Secondly, the installation is carried out without lathing, the plates are attached with glue and dowels-fungi.
Step 1. Prepared walls are covered with a primer with quartz sand, for example, Betokontakt. If the substrate is porous, the primer is applied in 2 layers.
Step 2. Determine the lower boundary of the thermal insulation and draw a horizontal line around the perimeter of the house. Drill holes for dowels according to the marking with a step of 20-30 cm and fix the starting bar.
Starter bar fixed
Step 3. You will need special glue to fix the insulation. You can use cans of assembly adhesive, for example TYTAN STYRO 753, or dry adhesive mixture (Ceresit CT 83). The mixture is diluted in clean water according to the manufacturer's instructions, mixed until homogeneous with a mixer at low speed.
Take the first sheet, apply glue from the back in a continuous strip along the perimeter and in the center. Next, they apply insulation to the wall, resting the lower edge on the starting profile, check the location with a level, press firmly against the base.
Step 4. The entire row is fixed, tightly joining the sheets together. The next row begins with half of the sheet to offset the vertical seams. Excess glue protruding at the joints is carefully removed with a spatula.
Step 5. When the glue hardens, each sheet must be secured with disc dowels. To do this, carefully drill holes in the wall through the insulation, insert the dowels and carefully hammer them in with a hammer. One sheet requires 5 fasteners - in each corner and in the center.
Step 6. Next, the glue solution is kneaded, applied in a continuous layer to the insulation, a reinforcing fiberglass mesh is laid on top and immersed in the solution. Openings and corners are additionally reinforced with corner profiles.
When the solution dries, the surface is sanded, dedusted and plastered with a thin layer. Now all that remains is to paint the facade or apply decorative plaster.
Ceresit glue prices
Ceresit glue
Video - Materials for wall insulation outside
Video - Insulation of the facade with penoplex
Quite a real situation - an efficient heating system has been installed and launched in a private house, but at the same time it is not possible to achieve comfortable living conditions if the building itself does not have good thermal insulation. The consumption of any energy resources in such a situation jumps to completely unimaginable limits, but the generated heat is completely uselessly spent on “heating the street”.
All main elements and structures of the building must be insulated. But against the general background in terms of the volume of heat loss, external walls are in the lead, and it is necessary to think about their reliable thermal insulation first of all. Insulation for the outer walls of the house nowadays is on sale in a very wide range, and you need to be able to navigate this variety, since not all materials are equally good for certain conditions.
The main methods of insulating the outer walls of the house
The main task of wall insulation is to bring the total value of their resistance to heat transfer to the calculated indicator, which is determined for a given area. We will definitely dwell on the calculation method somewhat below, after considering the physical and operational characteristics of the main types of insulation. And first, you should consider the existing technologies for thermal insulation of external walls.
- Most often, they resort to external insulation of the already erected walls of the building. This approach is able to solve to the maximum extent all the main problems of thermal insulation and saving walls from freezing and the accompanying negative phenomena of damage, dampness, erosion of building material. .
There are many ways of external insulation, but in private construction, two technologies are most often resorted to.
- The first is the plastering of the walls on top of the thermal insulation layer.
1 - the outer wall of the building.
2 - mounting glue, on which the thermal insulation material is attached close to, without gaps (pos. 3). Reliable fixation, in addition, is provided by special dowels - "fungi" (pos. 4).
5 - base plaster layer with fiberglass mesh reinforcement inside (pos. 6).
7 - layer. Facade paint can also be used.
- The second is cladding of walls insulated from the outside with decorative materials (siding, panels, " block house»Etc.) on the ventilated facade system.
1 - the main wall of the house.
2 - frame (lathing). It can be made of wooden beams or galvanized metal profiles.
3 - slabs (blocks, mats) of thermal insulation material laid between the lathing guides.
4 - waterproofing diffuse vapor permeable membrane, which also plays the role of wind protection.
5 - a structural element of the frame (in this case, a counter-lattice rail), which creates a ventilated air gap with a thickness of about 30 ÷ 60 mm.
6 - external decorative facade cladding.
Each of the methods has its own advantages and disadvantages.
So, a plastered insulated surface (it is often called a "thermal fur coat") is quite difficult to perform independently, if the owner of the house does not have stable plastering skills. This process is rather "dirty" and laborious, but in terms of the total cost of materials, such insulation is usually cheaper.
There is also an "integrated approach" to such external wall insulation - this is the use of facing facade panels, the design of which already provides for a layer of thermal insulation. In this case, no plastering work is foreseen - after installation, all that remains is to fill the joints between the tiles.
Installation of a ventilated facade practically does not involve "wet" works. But the total labor costs are very significant, and the cost of the entire set of materials will be very considerable. But on the other hand, both the insulating qualities and the effectiveness of protecting the walls from various external influences in this case are significantly higher.
- , from the side of the premises.
This approach to thermal insulation of walls raises a lot of complaints. Here, there are significant losses of living space, and difficulties in creating a full-fledged insulated layer without "cold bridges" - they usually remain in the area of adjoining walls to floors and ceilings, and a violation of the optimal balance of humidity and temperatures in such a "pie".
Of course, the location of thermal insulation on the inner surface sometimes becomes almost the only available way to insulate walls, but whenever possible, you should still give preference to external insulation.
Should you insulate the walls from the inside?
All the shortcomings and, without exaggeration, the dangers are described in great detail in a special publication of our portal.
- Thermal insulation of walls by creating a "sandwich structure »
Usually, this technology for insulating external walls is used even during the construction of a building. Several different approaches can be used here as well.
A. The walls are laid out according to the principle of a "well" and as they rise into the resulting cavity, dry or liquid (foaming and solidifying) is poured thermal insulator... This method has been used by architects for a long time, when natural materials were used for insulation - dry leaves and needles, sawdust, discarded wool residues, etc. Nowadays, of course, special thermal insulation materials are more often used, adapted for such use.
Alternatively, large walls can be used for masonry. with extensive cavities that during construction, they are immediately filled with heat-insulating material (expanded clay, vermiculite, perlite sand, etc.)
B. We will omit the other option both during the initial construction of the house, and, if necessary, create thermal insulation in the already erected earlier building. The bottom line is that the main wall is insulated with one or another material, which is then covered with brickwork in one or ½ brick.
Usually, in such cases, the external masonry is made "under the jointing" and becomes the finishing cladding of the facade.
A significant drawback of this method, if you have to perform such insulation in an already erected house, it is imperative to expand and strengthen the foundation, since the thickness of the wall becomes significantly larger, and the load from additional brick masonry will increase markedly.
V. The insulated multilayer structure is also obtained when using fixed polystyrene foam formwork for the construction of walls.
Blocks of such expanded polystyrene formwork are somewhat reminiscent of the well-known children's construction set "LEGO" - they have spikes and grooves for quick assembly of the wall structure, into which a reinforcing belt is installed as it rises and concrete is poured. As a result, reinforced concrete walls are obtained, immediately having two - outer and inner, insulation layers. Then, on the front side of the wall, you can make thin brickwork, tiled cladding or just plastering. Almost all types of finishes are also applicable inside.
This technology is gaining popularity, although, in fairness, it should be noted that she also has a lot of opponents. The main arguments are the disadvantages of expanded polystyrene from the point of view of environmental and fire safety. There are certain problems with the vapor permeability of the walls and the displacement of the dew point towards the premises due to the layer of internal insulation. But apparently everyone agrees that the walls do receive reliable thermal insulation.
What other requirements should the insulation of external walls meet?
It is clear that the thermal insulation layer on the wall should first of all reduce the building's heat loss to an acceptable minimum. But, performing its main function, it should not allow negative moments - threats to the health of people living in the house, increased fire hazard, the spread of pathogenic microflora, dampening of structures with the onset of destructive processes in the wall material, etc.
So, from the point of view of environmental safety, synthetic-based heaters cause a lot of questions. If you read the advertising brochures of manufacturers, you can almost always come across assurances that there is no threat whatsoever. However, practice shows that most foamed polymers tend to degrade over time, and decomposition products are not always harmless.
The situation with flammability looks even more alarming - a low flammability class (G1 or G2) does not mean that the material is completely safe. But more often it is not even the transfer of an open flame that is terrible (most modern materials are extinguished), but the products of combustion. A sad story shows that it is the toxic poisoning by the smoke resulting from the combustion of, for example, expanded polystyrene that most often causes human casualties. And you should think carefully about what the owner is risking, arranging, for example, such thermal insulation inside the room.
A terrible picture - the burning of the insulated facade The specific advantages and disadvantages of the main thermal insulation materials will be described in more detail in the corresponding section of the article.
The next important factor that must be taken into account when planning insulation. Thermal insulation of walls should take out the "dew point" as close as possible to the outer surface of the wall, and ideally - to the outer stall of the insulation material.
The "dew point" is not a linearly changing boundary in the wall "cake", on which the transition of water from one state of aggregation to another occurs - the vapor turns into liquid condensate. And the accumulation of moisture is the soaking of walls, destruction of building material, swelling and loss of insulation qualities, a direct path to the formation and development of foci of mold or fungus, insect nests, etc.
Where can water vapor come from in the wall? It's very simple - even in the course of normal life, a person with breathing emits at least 100 g of moisture per hour. Add wet cleaning, washing and drying clothes, bathing or showering, cooking or just boiling water. It turns out that in the cold season, the pressure of saturated vapors in a room is always much higher than in the open air. And if measures are not taken in the house to effectively ventilate the air, moisture seeks its way through building structures, including through walls.
This is a completely normal process., which will not do any harm if the insulation is planned and implemented correctly. But in cases where the "dew point" is shifted towards the rooms ( this is a typical flaw insulation of walls from the inside), the balance with may be violated, and the wall with insulation will begin to be saturated with moisture.
In order to minimize or completely eliminate the consequences of condensation formation, one should adhere to the rule - the vapor permeability of the wall "cake" should ideally grow from layer to layer towards the outside. Then, with natural evaporation, excess moisture will be released into the atmosphere.
For example, the table below shows the values vapor permeable ability of basic building, insulation and finishing materials. This should help with the initial planning of thermal insulation.
| Material | Vapor permeability coefficient, mg / (m * h * Pa) |
|---|---|
| Reinforced concrete | 0.03 |
| Concrete | 0.03 |
| Cement-sand mortar (or plaster) | 0.09 |
| Cement-sand-lime mortar (or plaster) | 0,098 |
| Lime-sand mortar with lime (or plaster) | 0.12 |
| Expanded clay concrete, density 800 kg / m3 | 0.19 |
| Clay brick, masonry | 0.11 |
| Brick, silicate, masonry | 0.11 |
| Hollow ceramic bricks (1400 kg / m3 gross) | 0.14 |
| Hollow ceramic bricks (1000 kg / m3 gross) | 0.17 |
| Large format ceramic block (warm ceramic) | 0.14 |
| Foam concrete and aerated concrete, density 800 kg / m3 | 0.140 |
| Fiberboard and wood concrete slabs, 500-450 kg / m3 | 0,11 |
| Arbolit, 600 kg / m3 | 0.18 |
| Granite, gneiss, basalt | 0,008 |
| Marble | 0,008 |
| Limestone, 1600 kg / m3 | 0.09 |
| Limestone, 1400 kg / m3 | 0.11 |
| Pine, spruce across the grain | 0.06 |
| Pine, spruce along the grain | 0.32 |
| Oak across the grain | 0.05 |
| Oak along the grain | 0.3 |
| Plywood, glued | 0.02 |
| Particleboard and fiberboard, 600 kg / m3 | 0.13 |
| Tow | 0.49 |
| Drywall | 0,075 |
| Plaster boards (gypsum boards), 1350 kg / m3 | 0,098 |
| Plaster boards (gypsum boards), 1100 kg / m3 | 0.11 |
| Rock mineral wool, depending on the density 0.3 ÷ 0.37 | 0.3 ÷ 0.37 |
| Glass mineral wool, depending on density | 0.5 ÷ 0.54 |
| Extruded expanded polystyrene (EPS, XPS) | 0,005 ; 0,013; 0,004 |
| Expanded polystyrene (polystyrene), plate, density from 10 to 38 kg / m3 | 0.05 |
| Cellulose ecowool (depending on density) | 0.30 ÷ 0.67 |
| Polyurethane foam, at any density | 0.05 |
| Bulk expanded clay - gravel, depending on density | 0.21 ÷ 0.27 |
| Sand | 0.17 |
| Bitumen | 0,008 |
| Roofing material, glassine | 0 - 0,001 |
| Polyethylene | 0.00002 (practically impenetrable) |
| PVC linoleum | 2E-3 |
| Steel | 0 |
| Aluminum | 0 |
| Copper | 0 |
| Glass | 0 |
| Foam glass block | 0 (rarely 0.02) |
| Bulk foam glass | 0.02 ÷ 0.03 |
| Bulk foam glass, density 200 kg / m3 | 0.03 |
| Glazed ceramic tile (tile) | ≈ 0 |
| OSB (OSB-3, OSB-4) | 0,0033-0,0040 |
For example, take a look at the diagram:
1 - the main wall of the building;
2 - a layer of thermal insulation material;
3 - a layer of external finishing of the facade.
Blue wide arrows - the direction of diffusion of water vapor from the room towards the street.
On a fragment "a" shows a camp that is very likely to always remain raw. The vapor permeability of the materials used will decrease in the direction of the street, and free vapor diffusion will be very limited, if not completely stopped.
Fragment "B"- insulated and finished wall, in which the principle of enlargement is observed vapor permeable ability of layers - excess moisture evaporates freely into the atmosphere.
Of course, not in all cases, for one reason or another, it is possible to achieve such ideal conditions. In such situations, it is necessary to try as much as possible to provide for the release of moisture, but if the external wall decoration is planned with a material whose vapor permeability is close to zero, then it would be best to mount the so-called "ventilated facade"(pos. 4 in the fragment "v"), which was already mentioned in the article.
If thermal insulation is installed from not letting in pairs materials, the situation is more complicated here. We will have to provide for a reliable vapor barrier, which will exclude or minimize the likelihood of vapor ingress from the inside of the room to the wall structure (some heaters themselves are a reliable barrier to vapor penetration). And yet, it is unlikely that it will be possible to completely prevent the "conservation" of moisture in the wall.
Natural questions may arise - what about in the summer, when the pressure of water vapor on the street often exceeds that inside the house? Will there be reverse diffusion?
Yes, there will be such a process to a certain extent, but there is no need to be afraid of this - in conditions of high summer temperatures, active evaporation of moisture occurs, and the wall will not be able to get saturated with water. When the moisture balance is normalized, the wall structure will return to its normal dry state. And the temporarily high humidity does not pose a particular threat - it is more dangerous at low temperatures and freezing of the walls - then the condensation falls out to a peak. In addition, in the summer, windows or vents are constantly open in most houses, and there will simply not be any significant vapor pressure drop for abundant reverse diffusion.
In any case, no matter how high-quality the thermal insulation is, and no matter how optimally it is located, the most effective measure for normalizing the humidity balance is effective ventilation of the premises. The outlet that is located in the kitchen or in the bathroom cannot cope with such a task on its own!
It is interesting that the issue of ventilation began to be raised with such urgency relatively recently - with the beginning of the mass installation by apartment owners of metal-plastic windows with double-glazed windows and doors with hermetic seals around the perimeter. In houses of the old construction, wooden windows and doors were a kind of "ventilation channel", and together with vents to some extent coped with the task of air exchange.
Ventilation - special attention!
Obvious signs of insufficient ventilation in the apartment are abundant condensation on the glass and damp spots in the corners of window slopes. and how to deal with it - in a separate publication of our portal.
What materials are used to insulate external walls
Now let's move on to, in fact, the consideration of the main materials that are used to insulate the external walls of the house. The main technical and operational parameters will usually be presented in the form of tables. And attention in the text will be focused on the features of the material in terms of its use in this particular area.
Bulk type materials
For wall insulation, subject to certain conditions, materials can be used that fill the cavities inside the wall structure, or they are used to create light solutions with thermal insulation qualities.
Expanded clay
Of all the materials of this type, expanded clay is the most famous. It is obtained by special preparation of special types of clay and subsequent firing of clay pellets at temperatures over 1100 degrees. This thermal effect leads to the phenomenon of pyroplastics - an avalanche-like gas formation due to the water present in the raw material and the decomposition products of the components. As a result, a porous structure is obtained that provides good thermal insulation properties, and clay sintering gives granules a high surface strength.
After receiving the finished product, it is sorted by size - fractions. Each of the fractions has its own indicators of bulk density and, accordingly, thermal conductivity.
| Material parameters | Expanded clay gravel 20 ÷ 40 mm | Expanded clay crushed stone 5 ÷ 10 mm | Expanded clay sand or sand-crushed stone mixture 0 ÷ 10 mm |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bulk density, kg / m³ | 240 ÷ 450 | 400 ÷ 500 | 500 ÷ 800 |
| Thermal conductivity coefficient, W / m × ° С | 0.07 ÷ 0.09 | 0.09 ÷ 0.11 | 0.12 ÷ 0.16 |
| Water absorption,% of the volume | 10 ÷ 15 | 15 ÷ 20 | no more than 25 |
| Weight loss,%, during freezing cycles (with standard frost resistance grade F15) | no more than 8 | no more than 8 | not regulated |
What are the advantages of expanded clay as an insulation material:
- Ceramite is distinguished by its high environmental friendliness - no chemical compounds are used in its manufacture .
- An important quality is the fire resistance of the material. It does not burn itself, does not spread flame, and when exposed to high temperatures does not emit substances harmful to human health .
- Expanded clay will never become a breeding ground for any life forms, and besides, insects pass it by .
- Despite the hygroscopicity, decay processes in the material will not develop .
- The prices for the material are quite reasonable, affordable for most consumers.
Among the shortcomings, the following can be noted:
- High-quality insulation will require a fairly thick
- Wall insulation is possible only by creating a multi-layer structure with cavities inside or using large hollow blocks in the construction. Warming the walls of a previously built house in this way - NS This is a very large-scale and costly event that is unlikely to be cost-effective.
Expanded clay is poured into the cavity in a dry form, or it is poured in the form of a light concrete solution ( expanded clay concrete).
Expanded clay prices
Expanded clay
Vermiculite
A very interesting and promising insulation material is vermiculite. It is obtained by heat treatment of a special rock - hydromica. The high moisture content in the raw material leads to the effect of pyroplastic, the material rapidly increases in volume (swells), forming porous and layered granules of various fractions.
Such a structural structure also predetermines high rates of resistance to heat transfer. The main characteristics of the material are shown in the table:
| Options | Units | Characteristic |
|---|---|---|
| Density | kg / m³ | 65 ÷ 150 |
| Coefficient of thermal conductivity | W / m × ° K | 0.048 ÷ 0.06 |
| Melting temperature | ° C | 1350 |
| Thermal expansion coefficient | 0,000014 | |
| Toxicity | not toxic | |
| Colour | Silver, golden, yellow | |
| Application temperature | ° C | -260 to +1200 |
| Sound absorption coefficient (at a sound frequency of 1000 Hz) | 0.7 ÷ 0.8 |
Along with a lot of advantages, vermiculite has one very significant drawback - the price is too high. So, one cubic meter of dry material can cost 7 or more thousand rubles (you can find offers that even exceed 10 thousand). Naturally, it is extremely ruinous to use it in its pure form for filling in a cavity. Therefore, the optimal solution seems to be to use vermiculite as a component in the manufacture of "warm plaster".
Quite often “warm plaster” is enough for high-quality thermal insulation Such a plaster layer gives the walls good thermal insulation qualities, and in some cases such insulation will even be quite enough.
By the way, the material has a high vapor permeability, so these can be used on any wall surfaces with almost no restrictions.
They are quite applicable for interior decoration. So, warm plasters with vermiculite can be prepared both on the basis of cement and on the basis of gypsum - depending on the specific conditions of their use. Moreover, such a wall covering will give them an increased fire resistance - even a wooden wall covered with vermiculite plaster will be able to withstand the "pressure" of an open flame for a certain time.
Another material obtained by heat treatment of rocks. The raw material in this case is perlite - volcanic glass. When exposed to high temperatures, the particles of this rock swell, porousize, forming extremely light porous sand with a specific gravity of only about 50 kg / m³.
Low density and gas filling perlite sand is what is required for effective thermal insulation. The main properties of the material, depending on the brand in terms of bulk density, are given in the table;
| The name of indicators | Sand grade by bulk density | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 75 | 100 | 150 | 200 | |
| Bulk density, kg / m3 | Up to 75 inclusive | Over 75 and up to 100 inclusive | Over 100 and up to 150 inclusive | Over 150 and up to 200 inclusive |
| Thermal conductivity at a temperature of (20 ± 5) ° С, W / m × ° С, no more | 0,047 | 0,051 | 0,058 | 0,07 |
| Humidity,% by mass, no more | 2, 0 | 2 | 2.0 | 2.0 |
| Compressive strength in the cylinder (determined by the fraction 1.3-2.5mm), MPa (kgf / cm2), not less | Not standardized | 0.1 | ||
This material is also popular due to its relatively low price, which cannot be compared with the same vermiculite. True, the technological and operational qualities are worse here.
One of the disadvantages of perlite when used dry is its extremely high moisture absorption- it is not for nothing that it is often used as an adsorbent. The second drawback is that extremely fine fractions, almost powder, are always present in the composition of sand, and it is extremely difficult to work with the material, especially in open conditions, even with a very weak breeze. However, there will be enough trouble in the room, since it generates a lot of dust.
A common area of application for perlite sand is the production of lightweight concrete mortars with thermal insulation qualities. Another typical use is mixing masonry compounds. The use of such solutions when laying walls minimizes the effect of cold bridges at the seams between bricks or blocks.
Expanded perlite sand is also used in the production of ready-made dry mixes - “warm plasters”. These building and finishing compositions are rapidly gaining popularity, since, simultaneously with giving the walls additional insulation, they immediately perform a decorative function.
Video - Review of "warm plaster" THERMOVER
Mineral wool
Of all the insulation materials used, mineral wool is likely to take the first place in the category of assessment "availability - quality". This is not to say that the material is devoid of flaws - there are many of them, but for thermal insulation of walls it often becomes the best option.
In residential construction, as a rule, two types of mineral wool are used - glass wool and basalt (stone) wool. Their comparative characteristics are shown in the table, and a more detailed description of the advantages and disadvantages follows.
| Parameter name | Stone (basalt) wool | |
|---|---|---|
| Limiting temperature of application, ° С | from -60 to +450 | up to 1000 ° |
| Average fiber diameter, μm | from 5 to 15 | from 4 to 12 |
| Material hygroscopicity in 24 hours (no more),% | 1.7 | 0,095 |
| Taunt | Yes | No |
| Thermal conductivity coefficient, W / (m × ° K) | 0.038 ÷ 0.046 | 0.035 ÷ 0.042 |
| Sound absorption coefficient | from 0.8 to 92 | from 0.75 to 95 |
| Binder availability,% | from 2.5 to 10 | from 2.5 to 10 |
| Flammability of the material | NG - non-flammable | NG - non-flammable |
| Release of harmful substances during combustion | Yes | Yes |
| Heat capacity, J / kg × ° K | 1050 | 1050 |
| Vibration resistance | No | moderate |
| Elasticity,% | there is no data | 75 |
| Sintering temperature, ° С | 350 ÷ 450 | 600 |
| Fiber length, mm | 15 ÷ 50 | 16 |
| Chemical stability (weight loss),% in water | 6.2 | 4.5 |
| Chemical stability (weight loss),% in an alkaline environment | 6 | 6.4 |
| Chemical stability (weight loss),% in an acidic environment | 38.9 | 24 |
This material is obtained from quartz sand and broken glass. The raw material is melted, and thin and rather long fibers are formed from this semi-liquid mass. Further, there is a molding of sheets, mats or blocks of various densities (from 10 to 30 kg / m³), and in this form the glass wool is supplied to the consumer.
- it is very plastic, and when packed it is easily compressed to small volumes - this simplifies both transportation and delivery of material to the place of work. After removing the packaging, the mats or blocks are straightened to the intended size. Low density and, accordingly, low weight - this is ease of installation, there is no need to strengthen walls or ceilings - the additional load on them will be insignificant .
- it is not afraid of chemical attack, it does not rot and does not melt. Rodents do not particularly "like" it, it will not become a breeding ground for domestic microflora .
- It is convenient to place glass wool between the frame guides, and the elasticity of the material opens up the possibility of thermal insulation of complex, including curved surfaces .
- The abundance of raw materials and the relative ease of manufacturing glass wool make this material one of the most affordable in terms of cost.
Disadvantages of glass wool:
- The fibers of the material are long, thin and brittle, and, as is typical of any glass, they have sharp cutting edges. They certainly won't be able to make a cut, but they can cause persistent skin irritation. It is even more dangerous if these small fragments get into the eyes, on the mucous membranes or in the respiratory tract. When working with such mineral wool, compliance with increased safety rules is required - protection of the skin of the hands and face, eyes, respiratory organs .
The very high probability of fine glass dust getting into the room, where it can be carried in suspension with air currents, makes the use of glass wool for interior work very undesirable.
- absorbs water quite strongly and, being saturated with moisture, partially loses its insulating qualities. Necessarily provides for either hydro-vapor insulation of the insulation, or the possibility of its free ventilation .
- Over time, glass wool fibers can sinter, stick together - nothing unusual, since glass is an amorphous material. Mats become thinner and denser, lose their thermal insulation properties .
- Formaldehyde resins are used as a binder that holds fine fibers in a single mass. No matter how the manufacturers assure the complete environmental safety of their products, the release of free formaldehyde, which is extremely harmful to human health, goes on constantly, throughout the entire period of operation of the material.
Of course, there are certain standards of sanitary compliance, and conscientious manufacturers try to adhere to them. For quality material, there must be appropriate certificates - it will never be superfluous to demand them. But still, the presence of formaldehyde is another reason not to use glass wool indoors.
Basalt wool
This insulation is made from molten rocks of the basalt group - hence the name "stone wool". After the fibers are pulled, they are formed into mats, creating a chaotic structure rather than a layered structure. After processing, blocks and mats are additionally pressed under certain thermal conditions. This predetermines the density and clear "geometry" of the manufactured products.
- Even in appearance, basalt wool looks denser. Its structure, especially in high-density grades, is sometimes even closer to felt. But the increased density does not at all indicate a decrease in thermal insulation qualities - basalt wool is not inferior to glass wool in this, and often even surpasses it .
- The situation is much better with hygroscopicity. Some brands of basalt wool, due to special processing, are even close to hydrophobicity. .
- Clear the shapes of blocks and panels make the installation of such mineral wool quite simple. If necessary, the material is easily cut to the required size. True, it will be difficult to work with it on surfaces of complex configuration. .
- Stone wool has excellent vapor permeability, and with proper installation of thermal insulation, the wall will remain "breathing".
- The density of basalt mineral wool blocks makes it possible to mount it on building glue, ensuring maximum adhesion to the insulated surface - this is extremely important for high-quality thermal insulation. In addition, on such wool, you can immediately, after reinforcement, lay a plaster layer .
- Basalt wool fibers are not so brittle and prickly, and it is much easier to work with it in this regard. True, security measures will not be superfluous.
The disadvantages include:
- Although basalt insulation, of course, will not become a breeding ground for rodents, it is not with great pleasure that they arrange their nests in it.
- There is no escape from the presence of formaldehyde - everything is exactly the same as in glass wool, maybe to a slightly lesser extent.
- The cost of such insulation is significantly higher than glass wool.
Video - Useful information about basalt mineral wool « TechnoNIKOL»
What's the conclusion? Both the one and the other mineral wool is quite suitable for thermal insulation of walls, if all conditions are met so that it is not actively saturated with moisture and has the opportunity to "ventilate". The optimal place for its placement is the outer side of the walls, where it will create effective insulation and will not bring much harm to the people living in the house.
The use of mineral wool for internal insulation should, if possible, be avoided.
It can be noted that there is another type of mineral wool - slag. But it was deliberately not included in the detailed review, since it is of little use for insulating a residential building. Of all types, it is most prone to moisture absorption and shrinkage. The high residual acidity of the slag wool leads to the activation of corrosion processes in the materials covered by it. And the purity of the feedstock - blast furnace slag - also raises a lot of doubts.
Mineral wool prices
Mineral wool
Insulation polystyrene group
Thermal insulation materials based on polystyrene can also be classified as the most commonly used. But if you look closely at them, then they will raise a lot of questions.
Expanded polystyrene is presented in two main types. The first is unpressed expanded polystyrene, which is more often called polystyrene foam (PBS). The second is a more modern version, material obtained by extrusion technology (EPPS). To begin with, a comparative table of materials.
| Material parameters | Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) | Styrofoam |
|---|---|---|
| Thermal conductivity coefficient (W / m × ° С) | 0.028 ÷ 0.034 | 0.036 ÷ 0.050 |
| Water absorption in 24 hours in% of volume | 0.2 | 0.4 |
| Ultimate bending strength MPa (kg / cm²) | 0.4 ÷ 1 | 0.07 ÷ 0.20 |
| Compressive strength 10% linear deformation, not less than MPa (kgf / cm²) | 0.25 ÷ 0.5 | 0.05 ÷ 0.2 |
| Density (kg / m³) | 28 ÷ 45 | 15 ÷ 35 |
| Working temperatures | -50 to +75 |
Styrofoam
It would seem that the familiar white foam is an excellent material for wall insulation. Low coefficient of thermal conductivity, lightweight and sufficiently strong blocks of clear shapes, ease of installation, a wide range of thicknesses, affordable price - all these are indisputable advantages that attract many consumers.
The most controversial material is foam However, before deciding to insulate the walls with foam, you need to think very well and assess the danger of such an approach. There are many reasons for this:
- Coefficient T The thermal conductivity of the foam is really "enviable". But this is only in its original dry state. The very structure of the foam is air-filled balls glued together, suggesting the possibility of significant moisture absorption. So, if you immerse a piece of foam in water for a certain time, then it can absorb 300 or more% of water about its mass. Of course, thermal insulation qualities are sharply reduced in this case. .
And with all this, the vapor permeability of the PBS is low, and the walls insulated with it will not have normal vapor exchange.
- Do not believe that foam is a very durable insulation. The practice of using it shows that after a few years, destructive processes begin - the appearance of shells, cavities, cracks, an increase in density and a decrease in volume. Laboratory studies of fragments damaged by such a kind of "corrosion" showed that the total resistance to heat transfer has decreased by almost eight times! Is it worth starting such insulation, which will have to be changed after 5 - 7 years?
- Polyfoam cannot be called safe from a sanitary point of view. This material belongs to the group of equilibrium polymers, which, even under favorable conditions, can go through depolymerization - decomposition into components. At the same time, free styrene is released into the atmosphere - a substance that poses a danger to human health. Exceeding the maximum permissible concentration of styrene causes heart failure, affects the state of the liver, and leads to the emergence and development of gynecological diseases.
This depolymerization process is activated as the temperature and humidity rise. So using foam for indoor insulation is extremely risky.
- And, finally, the main danger is the instability of the material to fire. It is impossible to call polystyrene a non-combustible material; under certain conditions, it actively burns with the release of extremely toxic smoke. Even a few breaths can lead to thermal and chemical burns of the respiratory system, toxic damage to the nervous system and death. Unfortunately, there is a lot of sad evidence of this.
It is for this reason that foam has not been used for a long time in the production of railway cars and other vehicles. In many countries, it is simply banned in construction, moreover in any form - conventional insulation boards, sandwich panels or even permanent formwork. A house insulated with polystyrene can turn into a "fire trap" with almost zero chances of saving the people remaining in it.
Extruded polystyrene foam
A number of disadvantages of polystyrene were eliminated by the development of a more modern type of expanded polystyrene. It is obtained by a complete melt of the feedstock with the addition of certain components, followed by foaming the mass and pressing through molding nozzles. As a result, a finely porous homogeneous structure is obtained, and each air bubble is completely isolated from the neighboring ones.
This material is distinguished by increased mechanical strength in compression and bending, which significantly expands the scope of its application. Thermal insulation qualities are much higher than that of polystyrene, plus EPPS practically does not absorb moisture, and its thermal conductivity does not change.
The use of carbon dioxide or inert gases as a blowing component drastically reduces the possibility of ignition by flame. However, there is still no need to talk about complete safety in this matter.
Such expanded polystyrene has a higher chemical stability, to a lesser extent "poisons the atmosphere". Its service life is calculated for several decades.
EPPS is practically impervious to water vapor and moisture. This is not a very good quality for the walls. True, with some caution, it can be used for internal insulation - in this case, with proper installation, it simply will not allow saturated vapors to penetrate to the wall structure. If the EPSP is mounted outside, then this should be done on an adhesive composition so as not to leave a gap between it and the wall, and to perform the external cladding according to the principle of a ventilated facade.
The material is actively used for thermal insulation of loaded structures. It is perfect for warming a foundation or a basement - strength will help to cope with the load of the soil, and waterproofness in such conditions is generally an invaluable advantage.
The foundation requires insulation!
Many people forget about this, and to some it generally seems to be some kind of whim. For what, and how to do it with the help of EPSS - in a special publication of the portal.
But there is nowhere to get away from the general chemical composition, and it was not possible to get rid of the highest toxicity during combustion. Therefore, all warnings regarding the danger of polystyrene foam in case of fire fully apply to EPS.
Prices for expanded polystyrene, polystyrene, PIR plates
Expanded polystyrene, Styrofoam, PIR plates
Polyurethane foam
Wall insulation by spraying (PPU) is considered one of the most promising areas in construction. In terms of its thermal insulation qualities, PU foam is significantly superior to most other materials. Even a very small layer of 20 — 30mm can give a tangible effect.
| Material characteristics | Indicators |
|---|---|
| compressive strength (N / mm²) | 0.18 |
| Flexural strength (N / mm²) | 0.59 |
| Water absorption (% by volume) | 1 |
| Thermal conductivity (W / m × ° K) | 0,019-0,035 |
| Closed cell content (%) | 96 |
| Foaming agent | CO2 |
| Flammability class | B2 |
| Fire resistance class | G2 |
| Application temperature from | +10 |
| Application temperature from | -150oС to + 220oС |
| Application area | Thermal, hydro- and cold-insulation of residential and industrial buildings, tanks, ships, wagons |
| Effective service life | 30-50 years old |
| Moisture, aggressive media | Resilient |
| Ecological cleanliness | Safe. Approved for use in residential buildings. Used in the manufacture of food refrigerators |
| Loss time (seconds) | 25-75 |
| Water vapor permeability (%) | 0.1 |
| Cellularity | closed |
| Density (kg / m3) | 40-120 |
Polyurethane foam is formed by mixing several components - as a result, from the interaction with each other and with atmospheric oxygen, the material foams, its volume increases. The applied polyurethane foam quickly solidifies, forming a durable waterproof shell. The highest adhesion rates allow spraying on almost any surface. Foam fills even the smallest cracks and grooves, creating a seamless, monolithic "fur coat".
By themselves, the starting components are quite toxic, and working with them requires increased precautions. However, after the reaction and subsequent solidification, within a few days, all hazardous substances completely evaporate, and the PUF will no longer pose any danger.
It has a fairly high resistance to fire. Even when thermally decomposed, it does not release products that can cause toxic damage. For these reasons, it was he who replaced expanded polystyrene in mechanical engineering and in the production of household appliances.
It would seem an ideal option, but again the problem rests on the complete lack of vapor permeability. So, for example, spraying polyurethane foam on a wall made of natural wood can “kill” it for several years - moisture that has no outlet will inevitably lead to the decomposition of organic matter. But getting rid of the applied layer will be almost impossible. In any case, if PPU spraying is used for insulation, the requirements for effective ventilation of premises increase.
Of the shortcomings, one more circumstance can be noted - in the process of applying the material, it is impossible to achieve a smooth surface. This will create certain problems if contact finishing is planned on top - plaster, cladding, etc. Leveling the surface of the cured foam to the required level is a difficult and time-consuming task.
And one more conditional drawback of wall insulation of PPU walls is the inability to independently carry out such work. It necessarily requires special equipment and equipment, sustainable technological skills. In any case, you will have to resort to calling a team of specialists. The material itself is not cheap, plus the production of work - in total, very serious costs can be obtained.
Video - An example of spraying polyurethane foam on the external walls of a house
Ecowool
Many have not even heard of this insulation and do not consider it as an option for thermal insulation of external walls. And completely in vain! In a number of positions, ecowool is ahead of other materials, becoming almost an ideal solution to the problem.
Ecowool is made from cellulose fibers - woodworking waste and waste paper are used. Raw materials undergo high-quality pre-treatment - fire retardants for fire resistance and boric acid - to give the material pronounced antiseptic qualities.
| Specifications | Parameter values |
|---|---|
| Composition | cellulose, mineral antipyrent and antiseptic |
| Density, kg / m ³ | 35 ÷ 75 |
| Thermal conductivity, W / m × ° K | 0.032 ÷ 0.041 |
| Vapor permeability | walls "breathe" |
| Fire safety | hardly flammable, no smoke formation, combustion products are harmless |
| Filling the voids | fills all the cracks |
Ecowool is usually sprayed on the walls - for this, in a special installation, the material is mixed with the glue mass, and then under pressure it enters the sprayer. As a result, a coating is formed on the walls, which has very decent indicators of resistance to heat transfer. Ecowool can be applied in several layers, achieving the required thickness. The process itself is very fast. At the same time, certain protective equipment is certainly needed, but it is not as "categorical" as, say, when working with glass wool or when spraying polyurethane foam.
Ecowool itself is not dangerous for people. Boric acid in its composition can cause skin irritation only with prolonged direct contact. But on the other hand, it becomes an insurmountable obstacle for mold or fungus, for the appearance of insect or rodent nests.
Ecowool has excellent vapor permeability, "canning" in the walls will not occur. True, the material is quite hygroscopic, and requires reliable protection from direct ingress of water - for this it must be covered with a diffuse membrane.
Ecowool is also used according to the "dry" technology - it is poured into the cavity of building structures. True, experts note that in this case it will have a tendency to caking and loss in volume and in insulating qualities. For walls, spraying is still the best choice.
What about the disadvantages?
- A surface insulated with ecowool cannot be immediately plastered or painted - it is required that one or another material is obligatory on top.
- Spraying ecowool will require special equipment. The material itself is quite inexpensive, but with the involvement of specialists, the cost of such insulation will increase.
Video - Thermal insulation of walls with ecowool
By the totality of all its positive and negative qualities, ecowool is seen as the most promising option for insulating external walls.
What thickness of insulation is required?
If the owners of the house have decided on the insulation, then it's time to find out what thickness of thermal insulation will be optimal. Too thin a layer will not be able to exclude significant heat loss. Excessively thick is not very useful for the building itself, and will entail unnecessary costs.
The calculation method with an acceptable simplification can be expressed by the following formula:
Rsum= R1+ R2+… + Rn
Rsum- total resistance to heat transfer of a multilayer wall structure. This parameter is calculated for each region. There are special tables, but you can use the diagram below. In our case, the upper value is taken - for the walls.
Resistance value Rn Is the ratio of the thickness of the layer to the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material from which it is made.
Rn= δn/ λn
δn- layer thickness in meters.
λn- coefficient of thermal conductivity.
As a result, the formula for calculating the thickness of the insulation appears as follows:
δut= (Rsum- 0.16 - δ1/ λ1- δ2/ λ2-… - δn/ λn) × λout
0,16 - this is an average calculation of the thermal resistance of air on both sides of the wall.
Knowing the parameters of the wall, measuring the thickness of the layers and taking into account the thermal conductivity of the selected insulation, it is easy to carry out independent calculations. BUT, in order to make it easier for the reader, a special calculator is placed below, which already contains this formula.