Building your own home is always associated with solving a huge range of problems, and one of the most important is always to ensure a comfortable microclimate in all residential premises. In the conditions of severe winters typical for most of Russia, the organization of an efficient heating system becomes the main task.

Most private housing owners prefer the usual schemes of water heating, open or closed, with the installation of radiators in the premises in the required estimated quantity. This scheme is time-tested and has long proven its effectiveness. However, it also has serious drawbacks - this is the uneven heating of the premises, the creation of not always pleasant horizontal convection flows. It doesn’t matter, in a private house it is much easier to eliminate such disadvantages than in a city apartment - nothing prevents the owner from making water floor heating with his own hands.

If in multi-storey buildings such modernization of the heating system is not always possible for a number of administrative or purely technological reasons, then in the conditions of individual housing, when you have your own and there are no significant restrictions on the height of the premises, this seems to be quite a feasible task. Of course, it will not be possible to call it quite simple - you will have to carry out a lot of calculations, purchase high-quality material and equipment, and perform a significant amount of construction and installation work.

Fundamental device of the water floor heating system

At its core, a water "warm floor" is a system of pipes placed under the surface of the floor covering, through which the coolant circulates from the general heating circuit.

Schematically, the general "pie" of water floor heating is as follows:

The usual structure of the "pie" of the warm floor

• The basis for the installation of a warm water floor is usually a leveling concrete screed (item 1). She may already have her own insulation (for example, expanded clay) or be without it.
• To prevent absolutely unnecessary expenditure of thermal energy for heating the base of the floor or interfloor overlap, a layer of effective thermal insulation will be required (pos. 2). This level does not fit only if thermal insulation is provided for by the very design of the leveling screed.
• Another layer of thermal insulator - a foil substrate (pos. 3), will increase the heating efficiency by reflecting the heat flow from tons of rubles, directing it to warm the upper layers of the floor. In some cases, when using special insulating mats for underfloor heating, they do without it.
• The heating of an array of underfloor heating is necessarily accompanied by its rather significant temperature expansions. In order to prevent deformation along the perimeter of the premises, a special damper tape (pos. 4) is used, which will serve as a compensator.
• main element t warm floor - a system of pipes through which the coolant circulates (pos. 5). In the process of laying out the pipes, they are attached to the thermal insulation substrate with special brackets (pos. 6) or they are fixed by other methods, which will be discussed below.
• Most often, a concrete screed is poured over the installed pipelines (pos. 7). It not only becomes a reliable base for laying the finish coat (pos. 8). The screed will act as a powerful heat accumulator, contribute to uniform heating of the entire floor surface, so there are certain requirements for its thickness.

Certain changes may be made to the presented scheme. For example, in some cases, when using special components, you can do without pouring the top screed, using the so-called modular design of a warm floor with profile thermally reflective metal plates.

However, it is not enough just to lay pipes - it is necessary to ensure stable circulation of the coolant through them for uniform heat transfer. Therefore, the most important node of the underfloor heating is the collector system, which creates the required pressure of the liquid and maintains its desired temperature. Usually, special collector cabinets of one or another level of complexity and saturation with automation are installed for these purposes.

Now, after a brief acquaintance with the general arrangement of the underfloor heating system, it makes sense to consider all its elements in more detail.

What materials are required for a water heated floor

Let's leave "outside the bracket" the device of the lower leveling screed - this rather refers to general construction work. The main condition is that it ensures the evenness and horizontality of the surface, has appropriate waterproofing. The concrete surface should not have significant flaws (cracks, crevices, potholes, areas of instability, etc.)

In addition, we proceed from the assumption that the starting screed does not have significant insulation. Means, first of all You have to deal with its thermal insulation. For these purposes, special mats for underfloor heating are usually used.

Thermal insulation mats for underfloor heating

Underfloor heating mats can be made in several versions.

• In some cases, for example, when arranging water heating on the second floor of the house, provided that the premises of the first floor are heated and the requirements of the general thermal insulation of the building are met, rolled polyethylene foam mats with a foil coating may well be enough.

Their thickness is insignificant - about 3 - 5 mm, however, they will be able to effectively isolate the ceiling and redirect the heat flow upwards. They are laid in strips end-to-end, with a metallized surface upwards, with obligatory sizing at the seams, best of all with foil tape.

• More reliable in matters of protection against heat loss are plates made of extruded polystyrene foam. This material has a high density (about 40 kg / m³) and can easily cope with the load placed on it - the weight of pipes with coolant, screed, topcoat, furniture and dynamic effects during operation.

As a rule, such plates have a system of tongue-and-groove locks, which greatly simplifies their installation. The thickness can be different, from 20 to 100 mm - there is always the opportunity to choose the right one, depending on the degree of insulation of the floor base. Usually, for floors on the ground or over unheated basements (basements), material with a thickness of 50 to 100 mm is used. If a heated room is located below, you can limit yourself to a thickness of 30 mm.

• More convenient to use ready-made mats from the same extruded (EPS), designed specifically for underfloor heating. They can be made in the form of rolls of the "tractor caterpillar" or "accordion" type.

Very often they are immediately applied foil thermal reflective layer. Another significant convenience - many of these mats have marking lines - this will greatly simplify the process of laying out the water circuit.

• The most modern and convenient approach will be the use of profile mats, which are designed taking into account the need to fix the pipes of the water circuit. They have embossed protrusions ( the so-called "bosses") in a certain order. The shape of these bosses can be different, but they are always located in such a way that pipes of the required diameter are securely fixed between them.

The most comfortable - profile mats with a polymer coating

The material for the manufacture of such mats is the same XPS, but usually they have a protective polymer coating, which also becomes an additional waterproofing barrier. Such mats have a system of locks for mutual conjugation, which ensures the solidity of the laid layer. Another advantage is that when pouring the finishing screed on top of them, additional reinforcement is not required - this role will be taken over by the relief of the surface of the mats.

Prices for different types of heating mats

heating mat

What pipes will be optimal for underfloor heating

The choice of high-quality pipes is the key to the efficient and safe operation of a water floor heating system. Given that the contours in most cases are embedded in the screed and access to them, repair or replacement of the damaged area becomes impossible, the material must be fully suitable for this function and be of exceptionally high quality.

Pipes for underfloor heating circuits must comply with a number of mandatory requirements:

• They must have a reliable margin of safety, both to the baric internal load and to external force applications. The choice of pipes designed for a pressure of at least 8 bar is considered optimal.
• The use of seam pipes is absolutely excluded. In addition, the circuit closed by the screed must be uniform - it should not have welding or threaded connections (with rare exceptions, which will be mentioned below) - this is always a “weak spot”, in which leaks or blockages cannot be ruled out over time .
• High anti-corrosion properties are a must. The material must be chemically inert. The vulnerable point is the oxygen diffusion of the material, that is, the penetration of this gas through the pipe walls, which leads to the activation of oxidative processes. The best choice is pipes with a well-thought-out oxygen barrier.
• The inner surface of the pipes should be as smooth as possible so that excessive hydraulic resistance is not created and noise from the fluid flowing through the circuit does not occur.

Which of the modern materials can be suitable for laying the heating circuit:

• First of all, it is immediately necessary to abandon conventional metal HCV pipes, even if they are made of stainless steel - the inadmissibility of joints has already been mentioned.
• Not suitable for underfloor heating and. This material, of course, is good and inexpensive, but does not have the required flexibility. It will not work to bend it in accordance with the planned laying scheme, which means that you will have to resort to the use of additional elements. BUT these are welded joints, the inadmissibility of which has already been mentioned. On the net you can find photographs of such circuits with assurances of their complete reliability, but there is no need to repeat such adventurism.

• Copper pipes are good for everyone for these purposes - they are ductile, have excellent heat dissipation, and provide reliable roller or solder joints. However, you will have to pay a very high price for all these advantages, so this type of material has not yet received wide distribution.

• Metal-plastic pipes seem to have been specially created for the floor heating system - they are flexible and hold the given bend shape well, have high heat transfer, and are easy to install. However, do not rush to immediately rush to the store to purchase them. The fact is that not every metal-layer will go for these purposes. That inexpensive option, which is very popular for creating external plumbing or heating networks, can play a cruel joke in the thickness of the floor. If you wish, you can find photographs with a torn pipe body - and this is a disaster for a circuit immured in a screed. The main problem is that the market is oversaturated with inexpensive and far from the highest quality goods. The aluminum layer in such pipes does not have reliable protection against oxygen exposure; over time, it becomes brittle from corrosion processes, and may not be able to cope with the pressure of the coolant.

PE-Xa pipe made of cross-linked polyethylene

• Modern XLPE pipes are a good choice. Special chemical processing of the polymer creates multiple additional intermolecular bonds, and the material acquires the highest resistance to pressure loads, without losing its elasticity.

The symbol “PE-X” speaks about the “crosslinking” of polyethylene. From the point of view of quality, the best performance of the RE-Xa material, which is treated with peroxide, reaches the maximum percentage of "crosslinking" - up to 85%.

The material is very flexible, which makes it possible to lay it with a loop of only 150 mm in diameter. It is produced in large bays, and this allows you to perform a solid contour of any required length.

The best option that combines the advantages of metal-plastic and "cross-linked" polyethylene

• Maybe, the most optimal the choice for the contour of the warm floor will be t pipes that combine the advantages of metal-plastic and cross-linked polyethylene. They have a multilayer structure - the inner and outer layers are made of PE-X, and between them, on on the reliable adhesive base, there is a layer of aluminum welded using TIG technology (in shielding gases). Moreover, many manufacturers additionally equip their products with an intermediate oxygen barrier (EVON technology). This prevents corrosion of the aluminum layer.

Such combined pipes are usually marked PEX-Al-PEX. You can always purchase all the necessary accessories for connecting to the heating system manifold.

• Another option is t rub - stainless corrugated. This is relatively new., but has already earned good reviews from the masters involved in underfloor heating. Such pipes have excellent flexibility, high heat transfer, reliability, protection from external influences due to the polymer film inner and outer coating. Moreover, they are equipped with a system of fitting connections of such a degree of reliability that such joints can be removed into the thickness of the screed without fear of leakage. The only negative is the still extremely high price for such material.

Preliminary calculation and drawing up a floor laying scheme

All practical steps for installing a warm floor must be preceded by the obligatory drawing up of a scheme for its laying and the necessary calculations.

• Before drawing up the diagram, the location of the collector cabinet must be determined - this is the point where both ends of all circuits should be brought out. The location of this node should provide ease of maintenance, ease of supply pipes from the boiler or existing heating system. Most likely, you will need a power connection point - for the operation of the circulation pump. Typically, cabinets are placed so that they do not spoil the interior of the room - in a hidden place or by removing them into the wall. Height above floor level is usually 200 ÷ 300 mm.
• For floor heating circuits, pipes with a diameter of 16 or 20 mm are usually used (in rare cases, 25 mm). As a rule, 16 mm pipes are used when a warm floor is planned as an additional element of the house heating system, 20 mm - if such heating becomes the main source of heat in the room.
• As already noted, the contour must be solid, without joints, but its length has certain limitations. You should not make a circuit with a 16 mm pipe longer than 50 ÷ 70 m, and with 20 mm - a limit of 100 m. This is due to the fact that the force of internal hydraulic resistance over a too long section can exceed the liquid pressure created by the pump, as a result of which the effect of a “closed loop” will appear, through which the circulation of the coolant will become impossible. If this length is not enough for the existing dimensions of the room, two or even more circuits connected to one collector will have to be laid.

There are two basic schemes for laying the contours of a warm floor - "snake" and "snail".

Basic pipe layout schemes - "snail" and "snake"

From the point of view of ease of installation, of course, a “snake” is preferable. However, this scheme is characterized by a pronounced uneven heating of the floor - with the distance from the start of supply, the temperature of the coolant decreases markedly.

With serpentine laying, the supply and return pipes are parallel to each other, and thus the temperature difference in them is compensated. True, for this you will have to work a little more in the preliminary drawing of the scheme and directly during the laying of pipes in order to avoid mistakes.

Based on these basic schemes, many other variations of the laying pattern have been developed.

• The next important point, on which the number of pipes required depends, is the step of their laying. Depending on the degree thermal insulation premises, average winter temperatures in the region, tasks facing the underfloor heating system (main or additional heating), this value can vary from 100 to 500 mm. It is difficult to independently determine this value, taking into account all the criteria - the system of heat engineering calculations is rather cumbersome. However, on the Internet you can find special ones that allow you to carry out such calculations with the required level of accuracy. It should be noted that too frequent arrangement of pipes is an unnecessary waste of material and energy resources. And if the contour loops are too far from each other, a “zebra effect” occurs - the alternation of cold and heated sections of the floor.

If necessary, a differentiated approach can be applied. In places where it is necessary to create zones of increased comfort or maximum heating (in the coldest areas), you can apply the minimum laying step, but increase it in other areas of the room.

• When drawing up the scheme, indents from the walls should be provided (so as not to waste energy on heating these very heat-intensive structures). Typically, the pipe closest to the wall is located at a distance of 300 mm. You should not plan to place the contour under permanently installed pieces of furniture.
• If it is planned to lay several circuits connected to a single collector, then ideally they should be of the same length - this will ensure uniform circulation through them. In any case, the excess length should not be more than 10-15 meters. However, sometimes this can be solved by installing special balancing fittings.
• Be sure to immediately calculate to what height the floor level will rise, whether the doors will open normally, or certain adjustments will have to be made to their design. And the total rise in the level can be quite significant:

— The thickness of the insulation layer used is taken into account - mats and underlay. This can already give 30 ÷ 100 mm of height.

- Mandatory concrete screed over pipes. In order for the underfloor heating system to be effective, it is recommended to provide a thickness of this layer from 30 mm (for 16 mm pipes) to 45 mm (for 20 mm). An important nuance is the height of the screed from the upper edge of the pipes. Thus, taking into account their diameter, we obtain, respectively, a screed with a rounded thickness of 50 and 70 mm.

- if you add another thickness of the selected finish coating, you get the total amount of rise in the level of the floor surface.

• When using several circuits in one room, it is advisable to provide for a compensatory gap in the screed between them. A similar approach is also necessary if the total length of the room exceeds 6 meters - it will be necessary to divide it into two sections, separating them with a damper joint, which must be filled with an elastic sealing compound.

In these places, it will be necessary to install pipes in a sleeve, the length of which on each side must be at least 150 - 200 mm.

Usually, a polymer corrugated tube of the appropriate diameter is used for this. Similar sleeves (pedes) must be installed and, if necessary, the passage of the pipe through the walls of the room.

• It is necessary to immediately think over the system for fixing pipes to insulation mats. There are no problems with profile mats - everything is already provided for there. On flat mats, there are several ways to do it.

One way or another, but the screed will require reinforcement. Therefore, you can first lay a reinforcing metal mesh, and tie the pipes to them with plastic flexible clamps.

Special fixing brackets with “harpoon” tips are sold, which are convenient for attaching pipes to a polystyrene foam insulating substrate.

Pipe fixed with a “harpoon” bracket

It is convenient to use special mounting rails, metal or plastic, on which there are grooves or clamps for pipes of a clamp or petal type.

Based on the drawn up scheme, you can easily calculate the required amount of material - pipes, insulation mats, mounting rails, damper tape and other elements. Be sure to take into account the necessary margin for supplying circuits to the manifold cabinet and connecting them to it.

Video: typical mistakes when designing a warm water floor

What is a collector node

It would be a serious mistake to believe that it is enough to connect the laid underfloor heating circuits to the heating pipes or to the boiler, and the system will immediately work in optimal mode. Its correct functioning is possible only with the creation of the required pressure, a well-functioning and balanced distribution of coolant flows and compliance with the necessary temperature regimes. It is these functions that the collector node should perform. It includes a lot of devices, devices and devices.

• As a rule, it includes a circulation pump. The pump that stands at the heating boiler is unlikely to be able to cope with the task of providing the necessary pressure in all circuits - both in radiators and in the warm floor. It is more expedient to provide a separate device that will be responsible for a certain section of the house connected to one collector.
• There are completely different requirements for the water temperature in radiators and in underfloor heating circuits. So, in convection appliances, the coolant can reach up to 70 - 80 degrees, and for floor heating this is unacceptable. It is considered normal to heat the floor surface up to 27 - 29 ºС in residential premises, and slightly higher - up to 35 ºС, in office, special or walk-through rooms, where tile is laid. Exceeding these indicators leads to a violation of the integrity of the screed from its overheating, deformation and drying of the floor decorative coating.

To maintain the required temperature level in manifold cabinets, a control system is implemented using thermostats based on mechanical or electromechanical two-, three- or even four-way valves. In these devices, the coolant is mixed from the supply pipe with the already cooled one, from the return.

The control can be carried out manually or in automatic mode, when such a crane is equipped with a servo drive connected to an electronic temperature sensor.

• The pipes of the circuits are connected to the combs of the supply and return manifolds. For the necessary balancing of pressure in circuits of different lengths, as well as to turn off any circuits, if necessary, valves are provided.
• The operation of the heating system may be accompanied by the release of dissolved gases from their coolant. To avoid the occurrence of traffic jams, an automatic air vent valve.
• It will never be superfluous to have visual control devices for the operation of the system - a pressure gauge and a thermometer.
• It is possible to provide for the autonomy of the underfloor heating circuits from the general heating system. This becomes possible when installing a heat exchanger.

In this case, the circuits have a limited volume of coolant that receives the required heating from the common system. Such a warm floor is easier to regulate, but, however, it will be necessary to install an additional safety group - a pressure valve and a membrane tank.

Correctly assembling and adjusting the mixing-collector assembly is a task of a high category of complexity. However, there is a way out - you can purchase ready-made kits designed for a particular area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, the number of connection circuits, with varying degrees of equipment with automatic or manual control and adjustment systems.

Video: the operation of the mixing-collector unit of the underfloor heating

After the collector cabinet is selected, purchased and installed in the place provided for by the scheme, you can proceed to the process of laying the pipes of the underfloor heating circuits.

Underfloor heating pipes

• Work always begins with a thorough cleaning of the premises - there should be no debris and dust on the surface of the base concrete screed. If this has not been done before, priming is performed with a deep penetration composition - this will both strengthen and dedust the surface, and give it additional waterproofing qualities.
• A damper tape with a thickness of at least 5 mm is glued to the walls along the perimeter of the room. If the length of the room is more than 10 mm, the thickness must be increased according to:

h= L× 0.55 (h is the thickness of the compensation gap, L is the length of the room).

The height of the tape should correspond to the total thickness of the future floor, taking into account the screed and top coat + 5 mm.

• The next step is styling. Thin rolled material is laid end-to-end with gluing the joints with adhesive tape. When using XPS mats, they are joined by locking parts. If necessary, you can fix them to the floor surface with polyurethane adhesive. It is impossible to use adhesive compositions based on organic solvents - they will cause chemical decomposition of polystyrene.

• The joints between the laid mats are glued with waterproof tape. This step is not necessary when using profile mats - the locking system ensures their secure mating.
• If the EPPS does not have an external coating, a layer of thin foil substrate is covered (with a metallized layer upwards), with gluing the joints with adhesive tape.
• If flat mats are used, and it is decided to fasten the pipes to the reinforcement, a metal mesh with cells of the order of 100 × 100 mm is laid. In the case of using mounting rails or plastic retaining clips, the reinforcing mesh can be installed later by placing it on the pads (stands) so that it is approximately centered between the pipes and the screed surface.
• It is advisable to transfer the drawing of the layout of the contours to the laid out surface in accordance with the drawn up scheme and carefully check its correctness. The marking grid applied to some types of mats can be of great help here.
• One of the most difficult moments is the correct laying of pipe contours. It is better to do this work together - one unwinds the bay, and the other immediately fixes the rub with brackets, between the bosses of the profile mat or in mounting rails. At the manifold cabinet, a margin of about 500 mm is usually left at both ends of the pipe.

Hurrying in this process is disastrous - an incorrectly laid circuit (for example, an error led to an unacceptable intersection of pipes) is very problematic to remake.

• After laying the circuits according to the scheme and carefully checking its correctness, you can connect the pipes to the manifolds using standard fittings. When performing such a tie-in, it is necessary to ensure that unnecessary stress is not created in the pipes (they cannot be connected “pull-in”), and they themselves do not protrude above the surface of the planned screed.

Checking the integrity of the contours and pouring the screed

• After the pipe loops are laid and connected to the collector combs, it is necessary to make sure that all connections are tight. To do this, the system is filled with coolant, successively each circuit through the supply comb, achieving a complete exit of air, for which the corresponding valve is opened.
• The next step is hydraulic testing, or as they are more commonly called,
• Before starting crimping, it is recommended to temporarily remove air vents and plug holes. Otherwise, they may fail, as they are designed only for a certain working pressure.

The crimping process for different types of pipes has its own nuances.

- If metal-plastic pipes were used in the circuits, then the system pressure should be set to 6 bar. A pressure gauge installed in the collector cabinet will allow visual inspection. If after a day the pressure drop is not recorded, then the test is considered successful. If leaks are detected, the connections are tightened and the test is repeated.

- With pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene, the process is somewhat more complicated. Initially, the pressure also rises to 6 bar. It inevitably begins to decrease due to the plasticity of the pipes, and after 30 minutes it should be raised again to the specified value. A similar cycle is carried out 3 more times. Then, after waiting another hour and a half, the pressure is again raised to 6 bar and the system is left for a day. A fall of no more than 1 is considered acceptable. 5 bar, but, of course, with a guaranteed absence of leaks.

• It is recommended to check the pipes in extreme temperature conditions. To do this, they are filled with hot coolant (with a temperature of about 80 ºС) with the same test pressure. Such a measure reveals unreliability of individual fitting connections that need additional tightening. In addition, such heating will relieve unnecessary stress in the pipes.

After it has been completed and possible identified shortcomings have been eliminated, you can proceed to pouring the screed. It is not necessary to drain the water of their system - this will protect the pipes from deformation, which can occur from the pressure of uncured concrete. After setting the screed, an even distribution of the load will occur, which will no longer pose a danger to the integrity of the pipes.

• it is best to use special formulations adapted specifically for underfloor heating. Their composition includes plasticizers that ensure uniformity of pouring without the formation of air bubbles (this is especially important when filling "difficult" places - near pipes, bosses of profiled mats or mounting strips. In addition, the mixture includes microfiber, which creates a reliable internal micro-reinforcement of concrete, increasing its strength under temperature changes.
• The screed is carried out in the usual manner - with the installation of beacons and guides to ensure the horizontality and evenness of the resulting coating.
• The maturation of the screed is usually, depending on the mortar used, 3 to 4 weeks. It is unacceptable to speed up this process by heating the screed with underfloor heating circuits.

The underfloor heating is put into operation only after the screed is completely ready. To do this, the entire system is returned to its normal state, all removed elements are installed, connections are checked, and accumulated air is released.

You can’t immediately turn on the warm floor at full power - you need to give both the pipes and the screed time to gradually adapt. First, the heating temperature should be set to no more than 20 ºС. Every day you can raise it by 5 degrees, bringing it to the calculated level.

If everything is functioning properly, you can proceed to laying the floor finish.

Video: an example of installing a warm water floor system

Usually, the accumulation of thermal energy in a room is carried out due to a whole range of works: installation or insulation of window and door blocks, installation of a high-quality heating system, insulation of floors, etc. Recently, special interest has been shown in laying the floor with electric heating with your own hands, which will be discussed in the article.

Warmth in the house

An electrically heated floor heating system consists of several pieces of equipment connected to an energy cable that is installed in the floor structure. It is best to install with the help of specialists, but with careful and accurate work, you can do everything yourself.

Of course, electric floor heating is not a panacea, because in order for the room to be always heated, it is impossible to do without insulated window and door blocks. As for the operation of such heating equipment, it can be used to heat rooms throughout the cold season. No matter how beautiful the house is, the owner will not look at the photos of the available rooms, but he will have to be in them every day, which is the reason for creating comfortable living conditions in them.

The very laying of a warm floor can be a creative process, since the high flexibility of the base on which the heating element is fixed allows it to be used in a variety of ways. The laying procedure is not simplified and requires careful selection of materials used, measurements, preparatory steps, etc.

Advantages and disadvantages of underfloor heating

The positive aspects of electric underfloor heating include the following features:

• heating a room with a similar warm system evenly and over the entire area;
• the ability to control the degree of heating and turn on / off the system at any time;
• the possibility of installation in any room.

Naturally, this method of heating has certain disadvantages:

• it is necessary to constantly monitor the operation of the system;
• floors can be deformed in case of excessive heating during uncontrolled operation;
• installation, maintenance and operation require excessive consumption of electrical energy;
• do not install furniture on top of electrically heated floors. Taking into account the fact that a mat or an energy cable can have different sizes, it is possible to preliminarily schematize the room and designate areas for furniture installation;
• it is important to understand what function this heating system performs so as not to worry about every kilowatt of electrical energy spent and not to be afraid to step on the floor once again with its subsequent damage.

The easiest installation method

The floor with electric heating is only a part of the ceiling, which consists of several layers of different materials with a certain functionality.

Typically, a connected electric floor heating for tiles or any other floor covering consists of the following components:

• thermal insulation layer laid on top of the previously installed waterproofing layer;
• end sleeve;
• special insulating tape for mounting, used without any strict instructions, but in such a way that the fastening is reliable and durable;
• connecting tube for connecting sensors that control the operation of the system;
• coupling. See also: "".

• determine a place for installing a thermostat or a special box for equipment that ensures the operation of the system;
• carry out a clear marking of the room for the installation of furniture in such a way that there is no heating system under it;
• connect the system to a 220 volt network.

The highest quality space heating can only be produced when the system covers more than two-thirds of the area.

Varieties of electric heating

When it comes to electric underfloor heating for laminate or any other coating, there are two main options for creating such a system. Note that laying a film underfloor heating under a laminate is more popular.

Each option involves the use of different heating materials:

• the thinnest heating mats;
• heating cable.

In the case of mats, technology involves laying them when it is impossible to raise the floor level. The thickness of the mat is 3 mm, which is both an advantage and a disadvantage. The disadvantage is that the heating efficiency is much lower than that of an energy cable. Such a system can be used as an addition to standard heating. In this case, the room will not change its visual outlines; no changes will be noticeable in the photo or during inspection.

An energy cable is a heating element that requires a floor level rise of at least 3 centimeters. It can be installed both indoors and outdoors. Of particular interest are small systems that can be installed under a roof or facade to prevent icing.

In this case, the cable selection is carried out according to the formula: P=SxPp, where:

• P - cable power, which the buyer will have to find out;
• S is the area of ​​the room subjected to heating;
• Pp is the power required to heat a specific material.

Power for various materials is selected based on how the floor with electric heating is to be used. If the system is supposed to be additional, then the cable power relative to different materials will have the same values: tiles (130-150), porcelain stoneware (150-170), laminate (120-150), parquet (120-150), etc. When equipping the main heating system with an area coverage of more than 70 percent: tiles (180-120), porcelain stoneware (200-220), etc.

Implementation of the installation

If the installation is carried out using mats, then laying is carried out as follows:

• to begin with, a high-quality base is prepared and primed if there are minor defects that can be eliminated in this way;
• the mat is laid;
• temperature sensors are connected;
• electrical cables are fixed;
• a leveling layer is poured. When laying tiles, it is possible to lay the mat even in the adhesive layer used for the installation of tiles or the substrate under the laminate;
• a waterproofing coating is laid;
• finally, the floor is covered with the selected facing material;
• installs a thermostat.

In the case of an energy cable, there is a certain difference, caused by the need to increase the thickness of the coating by 3 centimeters or more. It consists in the fact that a substrate is applied over the thermal insulation, reflecting thermal energy. Be sure to carry out a screed of the desired thickness. The cable itself is mounted under the screed, fixed on the reinforced mesh with plastic fasteners.

There is another way to lay the cable, which involves gluing the cable to the mounting tape. In this case, a reinforced mesh is not required.

Performing electric heating installation

The maximum efficiency of the system can only be achieved if the work is carried out without deviations from the technology. It is very important to observe safety precautions when working with the electrical part, and then the execution of actions will not cause difficulties. It is worth remembering that you can always ask for help from specialists who will take responsibility for all stages of installation, starting with the purchase of the necessary materials.

Actually, the floor itself with electric heating is laid in 4 stages. When performing each of them, it is worth remembering the rules for working with electrical appliances, wiring, etc.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

• to begin with, a heat-insulating layer and foil are laid;
• mounting tape is laid on top. In this case, you can use a hammer and do the work manually or use a special mounting gun;
• the cable is laid out taking into account the fact that the cold ends should start from the electrical wiring of the thermostat;
• further, temperature sensors are mounted in the corrugated tubes, and the pouring of the screed begins.

Safety precautions when working with electricity

It should be understood that the voltage used to work with underfloor heating is dangerous, and each worker must take care of his own safety and observe all the rules for working with wiring.

• laying instructions and the necessary assistance are best obtained from specialists or people who have already had the practice of such work;
• any actions related to the deformation of the purchased cable or mats are unacceptable. Do not cut the mats to make laying in hard-to-reach places easier, or extend the cable. Heating elements must be solid;
• work is carried out only at temperatures above -5 degrees Celsius;
• it is possible to test and operate the laid warm floor only after the expiration of the period allotted for drying the adhesive mixture, screed, etc. It is advisable to wait at least 1 month so that there are no problems associated with high humidity in the ceiling;
• it is impossible to mount under furniture that does not have legs with a height of 5 centimeters or more.

Outcome

The lack of heat in the house is a big problem that affects the comfort of living. You should not spare money for equipping the premises in such a way that comfort is constantly maintained in them. Electric heated floors in this case are a universal tool that will help solve any problem with space heating. By following the instructions and clearly following all the steps, you can create a high-quality, efficient and durable home heating system.

Choosing the type and installation of underfloor heating

Full heating of the room gives a much greater effect than local heating with a heater or battery. Full underfloor heating means underfloor heating. This method of heating a room was used in ancient Rome. At that time, the prototype of the modern underfloor heating looked like a stove with a pipe running under the floor and releasing gas. Today underfloor heating works much safer as it uses either water or electricity for heating.

There are three types of underfloor heating:

• electrical,
• water,
• infrared.

Electric underfloor heating

Since electricity is an environmentally friendly energy carrier, this method is used in various buildings and premises. Floor heating is carried out using a one- or two-wire resistive cable. In the case of a single-wire resistive cable, a single high-resistance conductor is used. In a two-level cable, a copper conductor is laid along with a resistive one.

Also read articles:

Outside, an insulating and heat-resistant sheath is used, as well as a sheath with grounding.

Heated water floors

Heated water floors are a structure of pipes with hot water supplied from a gas or electric boiler. This is the most economical type of underfloor heating. The downside is that heated water floors are not allowed to be installed in apartments of multi-storey buildings, with the exception of the first floors.

Heated water floors are optimal for cottages and private houses.

Infrared heated floors

This type of floors appeared on the construction market relatively recently. For the operation of such floors, a film with infrared radiation is used. Anatomically, it looks like strips made of carbon conductors embedded in a film of polymers. The thickness of such a film is only 0.4 mm. Its main advantages include ease of installation and work without a screed. Infrared floors are not characterized by harmful radiation. They are more economical in comparison with the two previous types of floors. When choosing a flooring over a film, you need to consider that some of them may not withstand heat. These types of coatings include parquet floors and lacquered flooring.

How to install underfloor heating?

Electric floor coverings can be used:

• as the main method of heating;
• as an extra.

So, if electric floors will be used as the main source of heating, then it should be no less than 5 cm. In this case, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe floors to be installed should be about 70% of the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. As an additional source of heating, electric floors are used to maintain a common microclimate in conjunction with other heating devices. To this end, they are used for bathrooms and pools, as well as for apartments on the ground floors.

Before starting the installation of underfloor heating, you need to make sure that the wiring is ready to connect additional power. You should also know what allowable current can pass through the fuses.

Installation of concrete water floors takes place in several stages:

1. The entire room must be divided into equal sections, their area should not exceed 40 square meters.
2. The rough surface of the floor must be covered with insulation materials.
3. Next, lay the reinforcing mesh and install the pipe contours.
4. With the heating system, you need to do pressure testing.
5. from concrete.
6. After all the above steps, you can proceed to the finishing work.

The marking of the room is necessary in order to avoid cracks in the concrete screed during temperature changes. The ratio of plots should be 1:2.

There are many ways to lay pipes, for example:

• spiral,
• double snake,
• snake.

However, it should be borne in mind that when installing pipes in internal walls, you need to take a step as small as possible. At one end, the pipe must always be attached to the supply manifold, and at the other - according to the design scheme.

During construction or renovation, specialists are increasingly abandoning the classical heating scheme in favor of an innovative floor heating system. Underfloor heating is a modern, convenient, efficient way to make your home warm and comfortable at any time of the year, without violating the style of the interior. This technology is widely used in residential, office and industrial buildings.

Habitual heating includes radiators that heat the air only at the window. At the same time, as a result of convection, the warm flow rises from the heating devices, gradually cools and falls down, returning along the floor to the radiator. With such a heating scheme, the distribution of heat is uneven, the warmest place is at the ceiling, and the coldest is at the bottom.

The warm floor consists of a base, a heating element distributed throughout the space of the room, auxiliary elements (sensors, thermostats, couplings) and a decorative coating. Floor heating occurs evenly throughout the room to the same temperature.

Benefits of underfloor heating:

• large heat transfer area;
• no convection;
• decrease in humidity;
• possibility of regulation in separate rooms;
• environmental friendliness;
• safety (subject to installation technique).

On a note: underfloor heating can be the sole or auxiliary heating system.

Disadvantages of "warm floor":

• clear requirements for finishing;
• high cost of the system and installation;
• the need to dismantle the top coating during repairs.

Classification of heating elements

Depending on the heating element, warm floors are divided into several types, each of which has its own installation features.

Table 1. Varieties of underfloor heating

Properties	Water heated floor		Cable underfloor heating
Heating element type	Hot water pipes	IR film, IR rods	Cable
Installation time	From 4-5 days	1 day	1 day
Application	Floor	Floor, ceiling, walls.	Floor
Repair		Only defective segments are subject to repair, the rest of the system works	If a single section is damaged, the entire system fails.
Maintenance	Required	Not required	Not required
Zoning	Impossible	maybe	maybe
Installation cost	High installation costs, low operating costs	High equipment costs, low operating	Relatively inexpensive installation, high energy costs
Possibility of use in multi-storey buildings	Not	Yes	Yes
Life time	Up to 50 years old	Up to 15 years	Up to 25 years old

Warmstad floor heating prices

underfloor heating warmstad

Electric heated floors: detailed characteristics

The most common system at present has become an electric floor heating system. A variety of cables that convert current energy into heat are a heating element. Mandatory installation of thermal insulation, grounding, installation of thermostats of varying complexity. Automatic sensors are able to turn on the system power when the temperature drops, and the thermostat maintains the set parameters on the surface. The compact control and adjustment system saves space, the connection is made for each room separately.

On a note: installation of an electric heating system does not require approval if the total power consumption of electricity does not exceed 15 kW.

Advantages of electric underfloor heating:

• this is the best option for an apartment (the risks of causing inconvenience to neighbors are minimized; installation does not need to be coordinated);
• heat up quickly when turned on;
• the ability to maintain a constant temperature;
• safety;
• compactness of adjusting devices;
• Ease of controls;
• long service life.

The main disadvantage of such a system is the high cost of electricity, even with high-quality insulation of the premises, the operating costs will be significant.

Electric underfloor heating cable type

For the installation of underfloor heating, resistive or self-regulating types of cable are used. They are used in rooms with a complex layout, because they can be laid in any configuration.

When choosing the type of cable, the power of heat transfer, as well as the area and volume of the room, are taken into account.

In a single-core resistive cable, heat is generated by one conductive core. It heats up quickly and has a constant heat transfer along the length, overheating is possible in some areas. Such a cable is connected to electricity from two sides, i.e. during installation, you need to lay it out in a loop so that the beginning and end converge in one place, or lay another supply wire. This is the cheapest option, but it emits strong electromagnetic radiation.

A two-core resistive cable consists of two cores, one is used to generate heat (then the other will be a conductive element) or both. It has two layers of insulation, which eliminates short circuits. A two-core cable is more convenient to use, power is supplied only from one end, and a sealed coupling is installed on the other. It has a higher degree of electromagnetic protection.

Resistive cables are distinguished by their simplicity of design, low price, increased power and stability of characteristics over the entire service life. But they are sold in segments of a certain length, they cannot be cut arbitrarily, so if one section breaks, the entire section has to be replaced.

Self-regulating heating cable has a different principle of operation and structure. It changes the heating power when the temperature around it changes, provides uniform heating of the entire floor surface with minimal electricity consumption. The design of such a cable is more complicated: in addition to conductive cores, it has a polymer semiconductor matrix, which is a heating element and allows you to control the temperature. In the event of a breakdown, only a section of the cable can be replaced. This heating element has reliable protection, safe and durable. With significant heating power, the self-regulating cable is economical and can be cut into sections of any length when laying. The disadvantage is the high price.

Electrical cable system is widely used in combination with any decorative coating.

Heating resistive mats

The heating mat is a fiberglass mesh base with a two-wire cable attached to it. They simplify and speed up the laying of underfloor heating, because the cable is already fixed to them with a certain step. Porcelain stoneware or ceramic tiles are ideally combined with this system as a decorative floor, while an additional screed is not made, and the heating element is mounted in a layer of tile adhesive. This is a reliable, durable and safe technology for creating a warm floor.

It is very convenient to use mats in certain areas - in the kitchen, in the bathroom, in the corridor where you take off your shoes. Although they are also used as the only source of heating for the entire room. It is necessary to carefully consider the selection of power mats, high-quality cable and regulators. In order not to waste electricity, you need to choose mats so that at the lowest power they heat the room to the desired temperature.

With the choice of high-quality materials, proper installation and operation, this type of "warm floor" is durable and reliable.

Warm floor infrared principle of action

The infrared floor is universal and suitable for any type of housing.

It differs in the way of energy transfer, heat transfer occurs through the action of an electric current on carbon elements, which creates infrared radiation that heats the floor.

There are two types of infrared elements:

• film;
• rod.

Film - a thin polymer film, inside of which there are copper conductive tires and graphite paste is soldered. The thickness of this film is less than 5 mm. The intensity of heating is controlled by a regulator.

The great advantage of infrared film is its easy installation. A screed is not required, but a layer of a heat-reflecting substrate must be laid from below.

Infrared underfloor heating is efficient, economical and reliable. The film is characterized by high heat transfer at low energy costs.

The disadvantage of IR film is that it is afraid of overheating (200°C and above), so it is not placed under heavy household appliances and furniture.

Rod infrared mats are tubes filled with carbon composition, which are connected in parallel to two busbars in polymer insulation.

Each rod functions independently, and if one or more of them fails, the system will still work. Carbon rods are self-regulating; when the ambient temperature changes, the amount of heat generated changes. The system necessarily includes a thermostat and a floor temperature sensor, if they are not installed, the heating elements will work constantly at the same power, and this is not economically viable.

Advantages of rod infrared mats:

• ease of installation;
• profitability (electricity costs are less than 60% compared to cable systems);
• versatility of application;
• the ability to combine with any decorative coating;
• environmental friendliness and fire safety;
• The room warms up quickly and evenly.

The disadvantages are the high price and short service life - up to 10 years.

Calculation of electric floor heating

It is necessary to determine the optimal power of a warm floor in order to ensure a comfortable temperature in the room with minimal electricity costs.

Let's use the formula:

P \u003d S floor xR 0

where P is the power of the warm floor, W; S floor - usable area of ​​the room, m²; P 0 - specific power, W / m².

The useful area of ​​​​the room is the area free from furniture and heavy objects, on which a warm floor is laid.

We take the specific power according to the reference table, depending on the room, these data are used if the warm floor is additional heating. For main heating, the power is 160 - 180 W / m².

Table 2. Specific power

Let's look at an example. Given: living room on the 2nd floor, 25 m², furniture occupies 4.2 m². It is necessary to find the power of the warm floor, provided that this is an additional source of heating.

S floor \u003d 25 - 4.2 \u003d 20.8 m²

According to the table, we accept P 0 \u003d 120 W / m².

P \u003d 20.8x120 \u003d 2496 W

Also, to determine the power of a warm floor, you can use the online calculator.

We consider the technology of laying an electric underfloor heating in our

How to make an infrared floor heating

Step 1. To perform the installation correctly, you need to draw a room plan, mark the areas where the furniture will be located, and calculate the area for laying the IR film. At the same time, you need to know that if the IR system is the only source of heating in the room, then the film should occupy 80% of the area, if additional - 40-50%.

On the usable area, it is necessary to place sections in such a way that they fill the entire room as much as possible, but do not cross. 15–20 cm are indented from each wall. It is optimal to arrange the strips in length (no more than 8 m), in order to minimize the number of connection points, a transverse arrangement is also allowed.

Step 2. When choosing materials, it is taken into account that the thickness of the film is selected depending on the decorative floor covering, the room and the type of heating system.

Table 3. Thermal film power

For saunas and industrial use, a film with a power of more than 220 W / m² is intended.

It is optimal to choose a film 0.3 mm thick, it is durable and resistant to deformation. For a small room, it is advisable to purchase material 50 cm wide.

A set of warm infrared floor includes: thermostat, temperature sensors, connecting clips, cables, IR film.

Step 3 The next step is to mount the thermostat. The diagram shows the installation location of the thermostat, connecting contacts and sensors. It is placed at a height of 15–20 cm.

For laying the cable, a vertical hole is drilled in the wall to the place where the thermostat is attached. Electricity is supplied from the nearest outlet, it is better to place the wiring in a plastic corrugated pipe.

On a note: to reduce the length of the wire used, it is recommended to place the temperature controller on the wall, perpendicular to the direction of laying the strips.

Step 4 The carbon film is mounted on a perfectly even, cleaned base. The floor must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and dust, and the horizontal surface must also be checked. Permissible height difference is not more than 3 mm. If necessary, fill the cracks and pour a thin concrete screed or leveling mixture.

Step 5 Laying waterproofing will protect the system from moisture coming from below. To do this, use a polyethylene film no thinner than 50 microns, the joints are connected with a sealing adhesive tape.

Step 6 Isolon, Penofol, cork substrate, foil coating are used as thermal insulation. The layer thickness should be 3–5 mm. The substrate is placed over the entire area close to the walls, the joints are fastened with masking or aluminum tape.

Step 7 We cut the film into strips of the desired size. You can cut the IR film only in the places indicated by the manufacturer; you cannot cut the material at an angle.

Step 8 We lay out the strips according to the plan, retreating from the walls 10–20 cm. At the same time, copper tires are placed from below. The distance between the canvases is 1-2 cm, they are fixed with hot-melt adhesive or double-sided tape.

Step 9 To connect the cable to the film, special clamps are used. One side of the clip is placed between the film and the copper strip, and the other side is on the busbar.

Wires are inserted into the already installed clamp and processed with pliers. The wires to the terminals are mounted in parallel, i.e. left only with left, and right with right. The connections are insulated and tightly crimped.

Step 10 The wires connecting the warm floor to the network and the thermostat are laid to the wall and put into the baseboard.

A groove is made in the thermal insulation, sections of the wire protruding above the film are laid there, fixed with adhesive tape.

Step 11 The points of contact of the electrical wires and the cutting lines of the copper bus are insulated with vinyl - with mastic tape on both sides.

Step 12 The temperature sensor is attached to the graphite strip with aluminum tape, as close as possible to the thermostat, but at a distance of at least 50 cm from the wall.

Step 13 The temperature sensor is isolated and connected with a wire to the thermostat.

All connections are insulated with special overlays

Video - Installation instructions for infrared floor heating

Water heated floor

Water floor heating is a system of bendable tubes through which hot water circulates, supplied from a gas or

Water heating must not be used in apartments above the first floor, provided that there are no living quarters in the basement or basement. Therefore, it is used in private houses with individual water supply, and in multi-apartment buildings, if the system was originally provided for by the project. The law prohibits unauthorized connection to central heating and hot water supply.

With the concrete method, the pipes are laid under a screed with a thickness of at least 3 mm, a decorative floor covering can be done no earlier than after 28 days.

If you need to reduce the load on the floors, or the height of the room is limited, a floor laying system is used. Pipes are placed on polystyrene foam mats, and a screed is poured on top.

In houses with wooden floors, pipes are laid in wooden grooves.

Despite the complexity of installation, the water floor system is cost-effective and durable. The main disadvantage is the possibility of leakage and the complexity of repair. It is not recommended to use a warm water floor as the main heating in the house.

Video - Installation instructions for water heater

Choice of underfloor heating finishes

It depends on the purpose of the room, type of underfloor heating, budget and personal preferences of the owner. What should you pay attention to?

First of all, not every type of coating is compatible with one or another type of underfloor heating. For example, parquet is not recommended for use with a cable system due to the risk of overheating and fire.

Ceramic tiles and porcelain tiles are a universal option for any underfloor heating. It is resistant to high temperatures, moisture and pollution. Tile is an environmentally friendly material that does not emit harmful substances even when exposed to high temperatures. It has a high thermal conductivity, which means it heats up quickly. For underfloor heating, it is advisable to choose tiles of small thickness.

When choosing a laminate as a topcoat, you need to take into account its features. Laminate can be used if the heating elements of the system are distributed evenly over the entire area of ​​the room, their heating temperature does not exceed 27-30°C.

When buying, we choose a laminate of class 32 and above, the optimal thickness of the board is 8–10 mm.

There should be icons on the packaging saying that this material can be combined with underfloor heating. Low formaldehyde content is denoted by E0 and E1.

Linoleum and vinyl coating have good elasticity and moisture resistance. With a warm floor, thin linoleum is used without insulation on a smooth base. So that it does not change its properties, the optimum heating temperature should be no more than 27 ° C. When choosing this material, it is important to pay attention to the markings.

It is inefficient to use cork in combination with a warm floor due to low thermal conductivity, but, if necessary, a glue-free cork coating is used.

When choosing a carpet for underfloor heating, natural materials are preferred, since synthetics emit harmful substances when heated. The operating temperature of the underfloor heating system when using carpet is projected 3-5 degrees more. The length of the pile affects the thermal conductivity of the carpet, the best choice would be a thin carpet with a short pile of wool or felt.

When buying a decorative floor covering, ask the seller for a certificate for this material, which will indicate its detailed characteristics and conditions of use.

Properly selected underfloor heating can be used with any floor covering. A large number of options for floor heating systems, modern materials allow you to install them in rooms for various purposes and operating conditions. It is important to observe the power of the heating system and not to exceed the permissible operating temperature of the finish coat.

In rooms heated using underfloor heating technology, the feeling is much more comfortable than with a traditional radiator system. When the floor is heated, the temperature is distributed in an optimal way: it is warmest for the feet, and at head level it is already cooler. There are two ways of heating: water and electric. The water one is more expensive to install, but cheaper to operate, so that's what they do more often. You can slightly reduce installation costs if you make a water-heated floor with your own hands. The technology is not the easiest, but it does not require encyclopedic knowledge.

Device and principle of operation

For water heating of a warm floor, a system of pipes is used through which the coolant circulates. Most often, pipes are poured into a screed, but there are dry installation systems - wooden or polystyrene. In any case, there is a large number of small cross-section pipes laid under the floor covering.

Where can you mount

Due to the large number of pipes, water heating is done mainly in private homes. The fact is that the heating system of high-rise buildings of early construction is not designed for this method of heating. It is possible to make a warm floor from heating, but there is a high probability that either you will be too cold, or your neighbors from above or below - depending on the type of power supply to the system. Sometimes the entire riser becomes cold: the hydraulic resistance of the water floor is several times higher than that of the radiator heating system and it can clog the movement of the coolant. For this reason, it is very difficult to obtain permission from the management company to install a warm floor (installation without permission is an administrative offense).

The good news is that two systems have begun to be made in new buildings: one for radiator heating, the second for underfloor heating. In such houses, permission is not required: an appropriate system was developed taking into account the higher hydraulic resistance.

Organization principles

To understand what you need in order to make a water heated floor with your own hands, you need to understand what the system consists of and how it works.

Heat carrier temperature control

In order to feel comfortable on the floor, the temperature of the coolant should not exceed 40-45°C. Then the floor warms up to comfortable values ​​- about 28 ° C. Most heating equipment cannot produce such a temperature: at least 60-65 ° C. The exception is condensing gas boilers. They show maximum efficiency at low temperatures. From their outlet, the heated coolant can be supplied directly to the pipes of the warm floor.

When using a boiler of any other type, a mixing unit is required. In it, the cooled coolant from the return pipeline is added to the hot water from the boiler. You can see the composition of this bond on the diagram for connecting a warm floor to a boiler.

The principle of operation is the following. The heated coolant comes from the boiler. It enters the thermostatic valve, which, when the temperature threshold is exceeded, opens the water admixture from the return pipeline. In the photo there is a jumper in front of the circulation pump. A two-way or three-way valve is installed in it. Open it and mix in the cooled coolant.

The mixed flow through the circulation pump enters the thermostat, which controls the operation of the thermostatic valve. When the set temperature is reached, the flow from the return is stopped, when it is exceeded, it opens again. This is how the temperature of the coolant of the water heated floor is adjusted.

Contour distribution

Next, the coolant enters the distribution comb. If a water-heated floor is made in one small room (a bathroom, for example), in which only one pipe loop is laid, this node may not exist. If there are several loops, then it is necessary to somehow distribute the coolant between them, and then somehow collect it and send it to the return pipeline. This task is performed by a distribution comb or, as they are also called, a floor heating collector. In fact, these are two pipes - on the supply and return lines, to which the inputs and outputs of all underfloor heating circuits are connected. This is the easiest option.

If a warm floor is made in several rooms, then it is better to install a collector with the ability to adjust the temperature. Firstly, different rooms require different temperatures: someone prefers +18°C in the bedroom, someone needs +25°C. Secondly, most often, the contours have different lengths, and different amounts of heat can be transferred. Thirdly, there are "internal" rooms - which have one wall facing the street, and there are corner ones - with two or even three outer walls. Naturally, the amount of heat in them should be different. This is provided by combs with thermostats. The equipment is not cheap, the circuit is more complicated, but such an installation allows you to maintain the desired temperature in the room.

There are different thermostats. Some control the temperature of the air in the room, the second - the temperature of the floor. You choose the type. Regardless of this, they control the servomotors mounted on the feed comb. Servo motors, depending on the command, increase or decrease the flow area, adjusting the intensity of the coolant flow.

Theoretically (and practically it happens), situations may arise when the supply to all circuits is blocked. In this case, the circulation will stop, the boiler may boil and fail. To prevent this from happening, be sure to make a bypass through which part of the coolant passes. With this construction of the system, the boiler is safe.

You can see one of the options for the system in the video.

Laying a warm water floor

One of the key components of the system is pipes and their fixation system. There are two technologies:

Both systems are not ideal, but laying pipes in a screed is cheaper. Although it has a lot of disadvantages, it is because of its lower cost that it is more popular.

Which system to choose

In terms of cost, dry systems are more expensive: their components (if you take ready-made, factory ones) cost more. But they weigh much less and are put into operation faster. There are several reasons why you should use them.

First: the heavy weight of the screed. Not all foundations and ceilings of houses are able to withstand the load created by a water-heated floor in a concrete screed. Above the surface of the pipes there must be a concrete layer of at least 3 cm. If we take into account that the outer diameter of the pipe is also about 3 cm, then the total thickness of the screed is 6 cm. The weight is more than significant. And on top there is often a tile on a layer of glue. Well, if the foundation is designed with a margin, it will withstand, and if not, problems will begin. If there is a suspicion that the ceiling or foundation will not withstand the load, it is better to make a wooden or polystyrene system.

Second: low maintainability of the system in the screed. Although it is recommended to lay only solid coils of pipes without joints when laying underfloor heating contours, periodically the pipes are damaged. Either during the repair they hit with a drill, or burst due to marriage. The place of damage can be determined by a wet spot, but it is difficult to repair: you have to break the screed. In this case, adjacent loops can be damaged, due to which the damage zone becomes larger. Even if you managed to do it carefully, you have to make two seams, and they are the potential sites for the next damage.

Third: the commissioning of a warm floor in a screed is possible only after the concrete has gained 100% strength. This takes at least 28 days. Before this period, it is impossible to turn on the warm floor.

Fourth: you have a wooden floor. By itself, a tie on a wooden floor is not the best idea, but also a screed with an elevated temperature. The wood will quickly collapse, the whole system will collapse.

The reasons are serious. Therefore, in some cases, it is more expedient to use dry technologies. Moreover, a do-it-yourself wooden water-heated floor is not so expensive. The most expensive component is metal plates, but they can also be made from thin sheet metal and, better, aluminum. It is important to be able to bend, forming grooves for pipes.

A variant of a polystyrene underfloor heating system without a screed is shown in the video.

Materials for a warm water floor

Most often they make a water-heated floor in a screed. Its structure and necessary materials will be discussed. The scheme of a warm water floor is presented in the photo below.

All work begins with leveling the base: without insulation, heating costs will be too high, and insulation can only be laid on a flat surface. Therefore, the first step is to prepare the base - make a rough screed. Next, we describe step by step the procedure for work and the materials used in the process:

• A damper tape is also rolled around the perimeter of the room. This is a strip of heat-insulating material, no more than 1 cm thick. It prevents heat loss for wall heating. Its second task is to compensate for the thermal expansion that occurs when materials are heated. The tape can be special, and you can also lay thin foam cut into strips (no more than 1 cm thick) or other insulation of the same thickness.
• A layer of heat-insulating materials is laid on the rough screed. For underfloor heating, the best choice is polystyrene foam. The best is extruded. Its density must be at least 35kg/m 2 . It is dense enough to support the weight of the screed and operating loads, has excellent performance and a long service life. Its disadvantage is that it is expensive. Other, cheaper materials (polystyrene, mineral wool, expanded clay) have a lot of disadvantages. If possible, use polystyrene foam. The thickness of the thermal insulation depends on many parameters - on the region, the characteristics of the foundation material and insulation, the method of organizing the subfloor. Therefore, it must be calculated for each case.

• Further, a reinforcing mesh is often laid in increments of 5 cm. Pipes are also tied to it - with wire or plastic clamps. If expanded polystyrene was used, reinforcement can be dispensed with - you can fasten it with special plastic brackets that are driven into the material. For other heaters, a reinforcing mesh is required.
• Beacons are installed on top, after which the screed is poured. Its thickness is less than 3 cm above the level of the pipes.
• Next, a clean floor covering is laid. Any suitable for use in an underfloor heating system.

These are all the main layers that need to be laid when you make a do-it-yourself water-heated floor.

Underfloor heating pipes and laying schemes

The main element of the system is pipes. Most often, polymeric ones are used - made of cross-linked polyethylene or metal-plastic. They bend well and have a long service life. Their only obvious drawback is not too high thermal conductivity. This minus is not present in the recently appeared corrugated stainless steel pipes. They bend better, cost no more, but due to their low popularity, they are still used infrequently.

The diameter of pipes for underfloor heating depends on the material, but usually it is 16-20 mm. They fit in several schemes. The most common are spiral and snake, there are several modifications that take into account some features of the premises.

Laying with a snake is the simplest, but passing through the pipes the coolant gradually cools down and by the end of the circuit it is already much colder than it was at the beginning. Therefore, the zone where the coolant enters will be the warmest. This feature is used - laying starts from the coldest zone - along the outer walls or under the window.

This drawback is almost devoid of a double snake and a spiral, but they are more difficult to lay - you need to draw a diagram on paper so as not to get confused when laying.

Screed

You can use a conventional cement-sand mortar based on Portland cement to fill a water-heated floor. The brand of Portland cement should be high - M-400, and preferably M-500. - not lower than M-350.

But ordinary "wet" screeds gain their design strength for a very long time: at least 28 days. All this time it is impossible to turn on the warm floor: cracks will appear that can even break the pipes. Therefore, so-called semi-dry screeds are increasingly being used - with additives that increase the plasticity of the solution, significantly reducing the amount of water and the time for "aging". You can add them yourself or look for dry mixes with the appropriate properties. They cost more, but there is less trouble with them: according to the instructions, add the required amount of water and mix.

It is realistic to make a water heated floor with your own hands, but it will take a decent amount of time and a lot of money.