Do-it-yourself solenoid valve for water. Solenoid valve electromagnetic ev220, danfoss, asco. Instantaneous water heater on the faucet

Not a single modern pipeline can do without valves, regardless of what exactly is transported through it. These devices perform several functions at once, among which it is possible to note protection against water hammer of sensitive equipment (pumps), pressure regulation in the system, etc. In their favor is the fact that the installation of such a device is extremely simple.

Valve classification

Similar devices on water pipes (as well as on gas pipelines, etc.) are used for several purposes:

protection of equipment from pressure surges- for example, check valves are usually placed in front of the pumps so that the equipment is not damaged during a water hammer. Installation is carried out using detachable connections, so even if there is no experience, you can do the work yourself;

adjusting function- in water pipes it is permissible only in one direction, so it will help in this situation too. As soon as the water tries to go in the opposite direction, the petal will block the passage in the pipe;

valves can also be used to regulate system pressure, the boundary force is selected, at which the transported medium opens the valve, as a result, as soon as the pressure in the pipeline exceeds the maximum, it will open and the pressure will equalize. The air valve on the gas pipeline is an irreplaceable thing.

The functionality of shut-off and control devices is not limited to this, they can also be used to control pumps, in wastewater treatment, to minimize leaks, etc.

Learn more about the design and principle of operation of different types of valves

Recently, in addition to conventional valves (which operate solely on the basis of the application of force), electromagnetic analogues have also appeared, they can be controlled remotely. The water solenoid valve can be used, for example, in the "smart home" system, from one remote control you can control the control devices throughout the house and in the surrounding area.

Solenoid valves

The key difference from other analogues is that it passes water not with an increase in pressure, but only at the command of a person. This is their main advantage.

As for the design, the key element can be considered a coil, which, when an electric current passes through it, causes the core to move, which opens / closes the through hole. Such devices can operate both from batteries (supply voltage 24V) and connected to the network (voltage 110V or 220V).

As for the classification, we can distinguish:

normally open/closed or bistable;
also, the electromagnetic water valve 220 V can perform: the function of switching the flow (2/3 way), shut-off (2/2), three-way (3/2).

Note!
When choosing, you need to take into account the features of the work of each model.
For example, if an electromagnetic shut-off device is released with servo control, then you need to know that it simply will not work at zero pressure drop, so at least a minimum pressure drop is still needed.

As for the scope, electromagnetic devices fit perfectly into the concept of "smart home". For example, an electric water valve installed in a caisson can be lowered automatically, you won’t even need to leave the house, and this example is the simplest.

Simple and combined models

When operating a water supply system, it is necessary to solve such problems as:

release of air locks from pipes that were formed directly during operation;

Note!
This problem has to be solved especially often during the operation of the heating system.
On all radiators, a special valve is provided to release excess air.

when draining water (for example, during the preservation of a pipe for the winter), it is necessary to ensure the flow of air, which replaces the drained water in the pipe;
when filling the pipe, the valve must ensure the release of air.

A simple manual Mayevsky crane can handle the release of air jams; the price of such a device does not even reach 200 rubles.

But other types of shut-off and control valves can be used:

single-function valves are used for automatic release of excess pressure. They are used to maintain the operability of pumping equipment, etc., except for equalizing the pressure in the system, it is not suitable for anything else;
combined - allow you to solve all of the above tasks. Their device uses a movable float, when the pipeline is filled with water, it rises and blocks large holes through which air enters, when the water is lowered, it also drops, the holes open and a vacuum is not created in the pipe.

Note!
Also in combined devices there may be small holes for pressure equalization.

Drainage and drainage

The drain valve can be used not only in the house to discharge water from pipes, but also as a device to ensure the safety of water supply from the well. Such devices, according to the principle of operation, resemble combined air ones and in winter, when the pressure in the pipe decreases, they discharge water into the well.

When the pressure is above the minimum, the ball closes the outlet and water flows into the house. If the pressure drops below the minimum mark, then the ball opens the outlet, and the water goes back to the well, this allows you to save the system when the water in the pipe freezes.

A drain valve is useful to protect the hoses and pipes of the irrigation system, such a device is especially useful when laying a separate water supply for irrigation. If the pipe is not laid very deep and there is a risk of freezing, then the drainage pipes themselves will discharge the remaining water from the system.

Of course, you can just install a drain tap and do the same yourself, but no one can boast of an ideal memory. The valve will definitely not forget to drain the water.

As for installation, threaded (that is, detachable) connection is most often used. Most often, the entire instruction is to tighten the union nut with your hands, and then tighten it with a wrench. In industry, welded and flanged connections can be used.

Summarizing

The normal functioning of the water supply without valves is simply impossible. It is this device that will allow you to drain water from the system without problems and refill it again, there will also be no problems with air jams. The ease of installation of such devices only adds to their popularity.

The video in this article shows the installation of a check valve in a hot water supply pipe.

Electric valves are needed for automatic control of various hydraulic systems. Finished products are quite expensive. Let's look for a cheaper solution.

The most accessible valves are from failed washing machines.

The coils of such devices are designed for a voltage of 220 volts AC, which limits their capabilities. Sometimes it is more convenient to control the valve with a low voltage of 12 volts.

I needed such a device to regulate the mode of the heater of the passenger compartment of a VAZ car. Suitable valves from foreign cars are outrageously expensive, and with the appreciation of the currency they become a luxury item. Let's try to convert the solenoid valve from the washing machine to the on-board voltage of the car.

First, let's see how it all works.

We remove the coil by inserting a thin screwdriver into the gap between the solenoid and the housing. In this case, you can slightly compress the petals that fix the solenoid coil with pliers.

To operate at 12 volts, the valve solenoid (coil) must be replaced.

The most suitable solenoid was found in the EPPKh VAZ 2105 air valve.

Since no images of the insides were found on the Internet, I will give them for the curious.

Let's start disassembly

The simplest thing is to cut off the rolling on the emery or cut it with a file along the outer edge.
Valve cover (inside view):

Stock, he's a cork. The air flow is blocked by a rubber insert at the end. On the opposite end there is a recess for the spring:

Steel washer to close the magnetic flux and non-magnetic guide in which the stem moves:

Coil:
1. In the case.

2. Taken out.

Oval o-rings seal the leads from the inside of the housing. We will need one of them in the future, so save them.

And finally, the case from the inside. The end face of the fixed magnetic circuit with a protrusion for the spring is visible:

The next step is to refine the hull. On the emery we grind the tube with a rivet on the back side, and putting the case upside down, gently knock out the remnants of the internal magnetic circuit with a beard. If the body is washed inward, we eliminate the deformation. Next, the central hole is drilled to a diameter of 9mm.

To create a magnetic system similar to the valve system from a washing machine, it is necessary to cut two strips from tin from a can - one 15 mm wide, the other 10 mm wide. The length of the strips should be such that a ring of about 1.5 turns is wound on the valve stem from the washing machine.

Modern industry produces a wide variety of taps and valves for regulating the flow of fluid. There is a suitable one for every application. However, the inquisitive minds of home craftsmen do not leave attempts to develop and implement their own designs. Sometimes this is caused by a desire to save money, but more often, by the desire to test one's own strengths as a designer, machine builder, mechanic and electrical engineer.

Types of cranes

Trying to repeat the design of a conventional shut-off valve does not make practical and economic sense if the home workshop is not equipped with high-precision milling, turning and drilling machines. The price of industrial designs in mass production is affordable even for the most modest budget. Another thing is technically complex valves for special applications, such as:

ball with electric drive;
needle;
non-freezing;
with instantaneous water heater;

Do-it-yourself options for their implementation will be discussed below.

Ball with electric drive,

The motorized valve can be used in modern "smart" plumbing, heating and air conditioning systems created by home craftsmen with minimal use of purchased components. In addition to testing your strength, there will also be a significant monetary benefit - a purchased device with an electric drive costs from 2 to 10 thousand rubles.

For a do-it-yourself ball valve with an installed electric drive, you will need the following materials and components:

ball valve 3/4″;

Figure 1: 3/4 valve

power window drive for Lada 1117, 2123 left LSA;

Figure 2: Electric power window

automotive five-contact relays - 2 pcs.;
limit microswitches - 2 pcs.;
sheet metal 1 mm thick (for the frame and clamps);
steel tube 10 mm - trimmings (for bushings);
square profile 10 * 10 mm - 10 cm;
metal strip 4 mm thick - 10 * 1 cm;
spring with a diameter of 12 mm;
bolt М8*45 with nut and washers - 2 pcs.

All electrical equipment is 12 volts. Of the tools you need:

drill;
metal scissors;
workbench with vise;
welding machine;
hand tool (hammer, screwdriver, wrenches, pliers, etc.)

The created mechanism should allow you to control the electric crane both with the help of a drive and manually. The manufacturing sequence is as follows:

Bend the U-shaped frame from a sheet of metal.
From the tube segments, make bushings for attaching the power window drive to the frame.
Fasten the drive.
Fasten the bed to the branch pipes coming out of the ball valve using clamps.
From a square profile, cut out a nozzle for the gearbox axle.
Weld a strip to it.
From the strip and the handle, assemble the lever mechanism of the drive by springing it. The spring presses the levers together, if necessary, they can be quickly disconnected without the use of tools and the crane can be operated manually.
Hinge the strip to the handle with a bolt and nut. Lock the nut.
Attach the square profile to the power window gear shaft.

Next, you should test the kinematics by applying voltage to the electric motor. You can use a car battery or power supply with at least 50 watts. The lever transmission should move smoothly, without jerks and distortions. If necessary, correct the touching parts with a file.

Now comes the turn of the electrical part of the drive.

In the extreme positions of the handle, mount the limit microswitches.
They should be connected in such a way that they open the control circuit of the relay through which the engine is turned on, upon reaching the extreme position "Open" or "Closed".

Such a drive can be connected to the control circuits of the smart home system. A do-it-yourself electric water faucet will be cost-effective if the power window drive is inexpensive. A new one costs up to 1 thousand rubles, and can eat up half of the savings.

Instead of a power window drive, you can use any other electric drive,

Figure 3: Motorized Crane

close in power and torque.

Needle

A needle valve with a large adjustment range can be assembled from salvaged materials at low cost. To make it you will need:

Syringe plastic disposable 2 ml.
Insulin syringe 1 ml.
Bearing ball - 2 pcs.
Springs - 2 pcs.
Nut and adjusting screw.
Epoxy adhesive.
Fasteners.
Plastic ties - 2 pcs.

Figure 4: Valve Schematic

The diagram shows:

Syringes are black.
Balls are blue.
Springs are green.
Stock is red.
The direction of fluid movement is indicated by green arrows.

To make a crane, you should:

Choose balls according to diameter. The large one should be slightly smaller than the internal size of the 2 ml syringe, the small one should be 2 times smaller.
Select spring force. The compression force of a large spring is about twice that of a small one.
Drill a hole in a large syringe near the spout, equal to the inner diameter of the insulin. Pull the insulin syringe by the ears with ties, wrap it with synthetic threads and glue it.
Insert the small ball and the smaller spring into the large syringe.
Cut off the piston rod.
Insert the large spring and the second ball.
Insert adjusting screw.
Tighten the nut with screws to the ears.

Figure 5: Finished construction

The incoming liquid will tend to push the ball away from the inlet, the spring will push it back the stronger, the more the adjusting screw is turned. If the screw is completely turned out, the flow will pass freely, if it is completely twisted, the flow will be blocked.

Antifreeze faucet

Those who need to use the water supply on the site in the winter are faced with the problem of freezing the street tap. With large temperature fluctuations, the water inside the fittings and pipes turns into ice and can break them.

There are several ways to organize such a water supply:

Installing a purchased non-freezing tap. In it, the valve plate is located inside the warm contour of the walls. It is always installed with a slope towards the street. Then, after closing the valve, the water remaining in the pipe flows down and does not freeze in the pipe. The devices are available in different lengths, which allows you to install them in walls of various thicknesses.

Figure 6: Anti-freeze valve

A homemade version of such a device is a conventional poppet faucet mounted on a supply inside a warm wall contour. Its stem is extended by a rod passing through the wall in the tube. Outside, a handle is fixed on the bar. The branch pipe must also be installed with a slope towards the street. This method requires an extra hole in the wall, but is several times cheaper. Of course, you will have to periodically chip off the ice that forms under the spout.

Figure 7: Homemade anti-freeze valve

A faucet installed on an underground insulated water supply. In this case, it is necessary to have a drainage into which the water remaining after closing the tap in the vertical pipe will drain. It is used in the design, installed in an insulated pit.

Figure 8: Three way valve

The valve is controlled from the street through a stem extension. In the working position, it turns on the water supply to the vertical pipe, at the end of which a spout is mounted. As soon as the water is collected, the tap is closed, the supply stops, and the water remaining in the pipe through the third hole of the tap is drained into the drain.

Sensory

It is unlikely that a home master will be able to make a full-fledged touch tap. The main problem will be in the placement and waterproofing of the infrared proximity sensor. A rather interesting design that allows you to turn the water on and off with busy hands can be assembled using

Solenoid valve from a washing machine for 220 v - 2 pcs.
Fitting 10mm * 1/2 external thread -2 pcs.
Fittings ¾ to ½ int. thread - 2 pcs.
Call button for surface mounting.
Wires.

The order of installation and configuration is as follows:

The valves are mounted in the break of the hot and cold water line, directly in front of the mixer.
Their drive is connected via a foot switch.
During pre-setting, with the solenoid valves open, set the desired temperature and water flow rate and leave the mixer valve in this position.
If you need to turn on the water, just press the bell button - the valves will work, and water will flow from the tap.

When water is no longer needed, it is enough to release the key, and the springs will return the valves to the closed state. Particular attention should be paid to the waterproofing of wires and connections.

Instantaneous water heater on the faucet

Purchased instantaneous electric water heaters have a compact design and are equipped with a temperature control system, spout and aerator. It is unlikely that it will be possible to make such a nozzle on a crane with your own hands in a home workshop. The main problem lies in the accuracy of processing parts and ensuring the electrical safety of the device. However, homemade products have developed a simple and quite effective design that allows you to do without complex and expensive components. It works by heating a coil heat exchanger on a gas or electric burner. For the manufacture of enough average plumbing skills.

From materials and tools you will need:

Copper tube with a diameter of 10-12 mm - 1 meter
Rubber or plastic hoses, heat-resistant - 2 distances from the burner to the sink +1 m
2 fittings from the inner diameter of the hoses to ½
Crane adapter for eurocube
4 clamps
Threaded arms and nuts for them - 2 pcs.
Construction knife, screwdriver, gas wrench

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

Wind a spiral from the tube in the shape of a burner. Cone the spiral to make the most of the heat from the burner. The straight sections of the inlet and outlet pipe should extend 20-30 cm beyond the plate panel.
Fasten the spiral to the plate grate. Put the hoses on the nozzles and secure them with clamps.
Connect one fitting to the cold water supply (pipe or canister tap), the other to the mixer.
Put the free ends of the hoses on the fittings and also secure with clamps. Cold water should flow to the lower pipe of the spiral.

Figure 9: Homemade instantaneous water heater

When such a heater is in operation, it must not be left unattended for a minute.

The main thing in gardening is to ensure regular watering of the site. Without it, any garden will not survive even one season. Watering by hand requires a lot of time and labor. A good garden requires a modern water supply system, where an important element is an electromagnetic valve for irrigation.

Advantages of automatic watering

The main elements of the irrigation system are as follows:

dosing of water consumption;
uniformity of application;
profitability (watering at night reduces the evaporation of moisture);
the system is underground;
saves labor and time of the gardener.

Purpose of the solenoid valve

An electromagnetic valve for irrigation is always needed, even if there is no irrigation system. It is used together with a timer that turns it on at the right time. Especially it is needed to fill the storage tank. When water is supplied according to the schedule, the timer opens the valve and the tank is filled. It is advisable to water the site at the same time. All this is done in the absence of the owner. He can only water hard-to-reach places.

The main purpose of the valve is to supply water to the irrigation system at a given time. A 1-inch device is suitable for this, passing 50-100 l / min at a pressure of up to 10 atm. It can also be used in short watering areas, as it allows you to adjust the desired local flow rate. It is suitable for spray and drip irrigation when the pressure in the system is weak.

One or more valves are installed on a gravel drainage pad and closed with a box. This can be done in any convenient place.

Solenoid valve device

The valve is very simple. It contains the following details.

The external thread of the inlet and outlet pipes is 1/4 "or more, depending on the flow rate. The least amount of water passes through the solenoid valve for drip irrigation. Small-sized devices are built into the pipeline with water and work on a timer that sets different irrigation modes.

Recently, models combined with a switch have appeared. Can be purchased through the online store of the company "Yulmart": solenoid valve for watering C 1060 plus GARDENA, which has become popular. It automatically switches the water supply to garden irrigation.

Solenoid valve for irrigation: scheme of work

Connecting the solenoid valve to the garden watering system

For a small garden, a -12 volt watering solenoid valve (NT8048) is better suited. It is safe, because if water gets on the contacts and if you touch it with wet hands, there will be no electric shock. The ability to connect it to a 15 Ah battery allows you to work without recharging for a week. It will also be easy to make power from the shield through the network adapter.

Water is supplied from a storage tank installed at a height of at least 2 m. The water in it is collected from a centralized system. Filling is controlled by a float switch connected to a plug valve. The absence of a pump eliminates many problems. Watering the garden by gravity occurs within a few hours and does not need to be controlled. All irrigation control will be taken over by an electronic timer connected to the outlet.

The valve is installed in the pressure line of the irrigation system. The electromagnet coil is connected to the adapter output via a cable using terminals. They can be closed on top with sealant to protect against water.

The whole device is conveniently placed in the utility room, where you can hold a socket. A timer, an adapter and an electromagnet coil are connected in series to it. It remains to set the irrigation mode. The time is chosen morning and evening, so that there is a minimum of evaporation, and the plants do not burn in the sun. The duration of irrigation is set, which is then selected experimentally.

Watering should be different for different types of plants. The system can be gradually improved by adding new valves. You can connect your own timer to each of them or install a common microcontroller, setting the irrigation program.

Valves from old washing machines can be installed on the outlet pipelines, which will save a lot on the cost of the irrigation system.

Do-it-yourself solenoid valve for watering

Electric valves are expensive, but cheaper solutions can be found. The most accessible here is the valve from the failed washing machine. His device is as follows:

plastic case;
rubber membrane;
core electromagnet;
spring;
mesh filter;
pad.

The mechanism is highly sensitive to dirt and can easily fail. It is protected, but for a garden system it is advisable to put another one at the valve inlet, since your own will quickly become clogged.

The solenoid valve is normally closed, i.e. in the off state it shuts off the water. When turned on, the core retracts, lifting the rubber membrane and allowing water to pass through.

To remove the contaminated washing liquid, a drain valve is used, which is similarly arranged. The principle of operation is the same and it can be successfully used for irrigation.

Washing machine solenoid valves have the following characteristics:

supply voltage - ;
power - 8 W;
water pressure - up to 10 atm;
inlet hose diameter - 3/4 ";
liquid consumption - 10 l/min.

Faults and repairs

No voltage on the coil

1. Malfunction of the supply cable.

2. Coil failure.

1. Repair the break.

2. Check the integrity of the wire with a tester. A burnt coil is usually not repairable.

Valve does not open when energized

1. Broken spring.

2. Accumulation of dirt in the moving joint.

1. Replace solenoid.

2. Disassemble and wash the structure.

Large pressure drop

1. Clogged orifice.

2. Coil parameters do not match the applied voltage.

1. Clean.

2. Replace coil.

Valve does not close

1. Residual voltage on the coil.

2. Pollution of the hole.

3. Valve seat contamination.

4. Broken spring.

1. Check relay contacts and electrical connections.

2. Clean.

3. Clear.

4. Replace.

Conclusion

It takes a lot of time and effort to maintain a garden and vegetable garden. A real savior for the owner is an electromagnetic valve for irrigation, which serves to fill the storage tank in his absence, pump water from the well, and especially in the irrigation system.

The operation of pipelines for various purposes assumes that the liquid and gaseous media that are transported through them must move in a certain direction. By making a check valve with your own hands or by purchasing its serial model, you can ensure this requirement for the operation of the pipeline and its elements of equipment, which will allow them to be maintained in working condition for a long time.

Purpose and principle of operation of the device

Backflow in piping systems can occur for a variety of reasons. In the case of liquid media, this may be due to a pump shutdown, and in the case of ventilation, an incorrect installation of the chimney or a small amount of incoming air. Whatever caused the reverse flow of the working medium in the pipeline system, such a phenomenon is highly undesirable, since it can lead not only to incorrect operation of the elements of such a system, but also to their failure.

To prevent the formation of a reverse flow in the pipeline system, as mentioned above, check valves are installed on it, which can differ both in their appearance and dimensions, and in their design. The main function of such a device, installed on pipelines through which liquid and gaseous media are transported, is to pass the working flow in one direction and block its movement at the moment when it starts to move in the opposite direction.

The design of check valves, regardless of their type, consists of the following elements:

a body, the inner part of which is formed by two communicating cylinders;
a locking element, which can be a ball, flap or spool;
a spring that presses the locking element against the seat located at the outlet of the valve passage.

The principle of operation of the check valve is quite simple and is as follows.

After the flow of the working medium entering the valve reaches the required pressure, the spring pressing the locking element is pressed out, allowing the gas or liquid to freely pass through the internal cavity of the device.
If the pressure of the flow of the working medium in the pipeline drops, then the spring returns the locking element to the closed state, blocking the flow in the opposite direction.

There are many different types of check valves on the market today, which allows you to select such devices for specific purposes. Meanwhile, many home craftsmen, guided by a natural desire to save money, make check valves with their own hands and share drawings and diagrams of their homemade products on the Internet.

Self-manufacturing of a check valve for water

A home-made check valve for installation on a pipeline through which water is transported does not require expensive consumables and complex equipment in the manufacture, which makes it possible to save a lot. So, in order to make a check valve yourself, you need to prepare:

a coupling on the body of which an external thread is cut;
tee with internal thread;
a spring, the diameter of which allows it to freely enter the tee;
a steel ball, the diameter of which is slightly smaller than the cross section of the internal cavity in the tee;
screw plug;
FUM sealing tape.

A spring, if you have not found a suitable diameter, can be made independently, using a rod of the appropriate diameter and hard steel wire for this. In the rod, on which the homemade spring will be wound, it is necessary to drill a hole, the end of the wire will be inserted into it. To make it more convenient to wind the spring, the rod can be clamped in a vice, and the wire itself can be wound using pliers.

After all the materials for the manufacture of a homemade check valve have been prepared, you can proceed with the assembly, which is performed in the following sequence.

A coupling is screwed into the internal threaded hole of the tee. This is done in such a way that it overlaps the side hole by approximately 2 mm. It is necessary to fulfill such a requirement when tightening the coupling so that the ball, which will be located in the inside of the tee, does not jump out into its side hole.
A ball is first inserted into the hole located on the opposite side of the tee, and then a spring.
The hole in the tee, into which the ball and spring were inserted, is plugged with a screw plug, which is screwed in using an FUM tape.

The check valve made according to the proposed scheme will work as follows: the water flow entering such a device from the side of the coupling will repel the ball pressed by the spring and exit through the perpendicular hole of the tee.

The most important thing when making a check valve of the proposed design with your own hands is to correctly adjust the spring so that it does not deviate at the moment when the water pressure in the pipeline decreases, and at the same time it is not too tight so as not to impede the flow of water passing through through the device. In addition, all threaded connections must be made very high quality in order to ensure absolute tightness of the non-return valve.

How to make a check valve for ventilation systems

The question of how to make a check valve to equip the ventilation system is no less relevant than the manufacture of such a device for water supply or sewerage. By installing a check valve in the ventilation system, you will reliably protect your home from polluted and cold air entering such a system from the outside.

It should be noted that the check valve of the proposed design, when compared with serial models, has no less efficiency and can successfully serve you for two to three years.

So, the manufacture of a home-made check valve for equipping the ventilation system is carried out in the following sequence.

First of all, it is necessary to make the main element of the check valve - a plate on which the flaps will be fixed. To create such a plate, which is cut strictly according to the shape and size of the ventilation duct, you can use sheet textolite or other durable plastic with a thickness of 3–5 mm.
Along the edges of the sawn plate, it is necessary to drill holes with which it will be connected to the fan and fixed in the exhaust duct. In addition, holes must be drilled in the central part of the plate. This is necessary so that air can freely pass through it. The throughput of your ventilation system will depend on how many holes you drill in such a plate.
The plate, using a sealant and a gasket, should be fixed in the chimney. Under the places where the plate will be fixed with screws, it is also necessary to place rubber gaskets. This will reduce noise and vibration levels in your ventilation system.
According to the shape and dimensions of the plate, a piece of dense film is cut, the thickness of which should be at least 0.1 mm. From the film, which is glued to the plate along its edge, the flaps of a self-made check valve will be formed in the future.
The exhaust pipe, in which a plate with a film glued to it, is already installed, must be installed in the ventilation duct using dowels or self-tapping screws for this purpose. After installing a check valve in the ventilation duct, it is necessary to securely seal the gaps between the walls of the duct and the exhaust pipe.

The final step in installing a homemade check valve in the ventilation system is to cut the film pasted on the plate into two identical halves. When performing such a procedure, for which it is best to use a sharp mounting knife, it is necessary to ensure that the cut is perfectly even.

The principle by which the check valve of the design proposed above works is quite simple and is as follows.

Nothing interferes with the flow of air that passes through such a valve in the direction from the room: the flaps open and let it through freely.
When a back draft occurs in the ventilation system, the flaps of the check valve close securely, preventing outside air from entering the room.

Thus, this membrane-type check valve reliably protects the ventilated room not only from polluted and cold air, but also from foreign odors.

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