Metal frame garage. Cheap and fast - metal garage. Choice of design: typical projects and drawings

Cars need protection from adverse weather conditions and intruders. Paid parking is not a solution to the problem, since equipment deteriorates from the effects of temperature extremes, precipitation and solar radiation. A metal garage is the object that meets all the wishes of car owners. The room ensures the safety of the vehicle, maintaining a comfortable microclimate, the possibility of carrying out repair and maintenance work. With a sufficient size of the building, furniture, machines and equipment can be installed in it.

Which metal garage to choose for construction

The steel garage is a lightweight prefabricated structure. The structure provides a sufficient level of convenience for storage of the vehicle and its protection from theft.

There are such options to choose from:

Industrial products. They are a set of parts for the frame, gates, sheathing and fasteners. The kit comes with assembly instructions. The disadvantage of this solution is the high price of the product.
Modular designs. These include decommissioned shipping containers with a length of 600 cm. After modernization, these structures can only be used for storing vehicles, since there is no space left for shelves and cabinets. Even used products are expensive. The price may be prohibitive if shipping is taken into account.
Homemade buildings. They are made with household tools according to standard or individual projects. Do-it-yourself garages can be equipped with places for storing things, tools, spare parts, and even for cultural recreation. The correct approach to work will allow you to build a durable, reliable and warm room with a long service life.

Peculiarities. Pros and cons

If you look at the rows of buildings in garage cooperatives, you will notice that most car enthusiasts are leaning towards metal structures. Such a solution is due to the following advantages of these structures:

Sufficient area and volume. In both factory and self-made buildings, a car, cabinets, workbenches and even sofas can fit freely.
Possibility of modification. If necessary, the building can be lengthened, a second level can be added to it, windows and a balcony can be equipped.
Fire resistance. Iron prevents the penetration of fire into the room from the outside and the spread of flame in the event of a fire inside it.
Strength. High-quality metal cannot be damaged by household tools. Hacking requires training and professional equipment.
Affordable price. The purchase of component parts is not associated with high costs.
Prefabricated structures are not classified as monolithic buildings. They can be built without obtaining permission from the authorities.
Relative ease of design and construction.

The disadvantages of iron buildings are:

Ease. The insignificant weight of the metal garage, together with its windage, creates conditions for overturning by a strong gust of wind. The structure can be jacked up.
Lack of thermal insulation. A thin layer of iron is not a barrier to heat and cold.
Corrosion susceptibility. Precipitation and condensation contribute to the development of rust on internal and external surfaces.

It is easy to destroy a steel structure with a battery grinder and a gas burner.

Stages of building a garage from metal structures with your own hands

The decision to build an iron garage with your own hands allows you to save a lot of money and it is interesting to spend your free time. To build a functional, solid and durable structure, you need to follow a competent and well-thought-out plan in technical terms.

Construction consists of the following stages:

Drawing up a sketch.
Making a project.
Purchase of materials, preparation of tools.
Choosing a place for construction.
Marking on the ground.
Arrangement of the foundation.
Erection of the frame.
Installation of walls and roofs.
Gate manufacturing.
Warming and finishing.
Supply of communications.

Blueprints

Making garages is a process based on an elaborate plan, calculations and drawings.

Project documentation should take into account the following nuances:

Construction must be carried out in an elevated place so that storm and melt water does not flood the structure. Otherwise, corrosion will quickly destroy it.
The garage must be firmly anchored to the ground to prevent it from tipping over by the wind or being lifted by intruders by a system of levers.
It is necessary to think over the dimensions: the dimensions of the building should ensure free entry of the car, the opening of doors and the possibility of installing furniture. The optimal indicators are 600 × 400 × 300 cm (L × W × H).
A drawing of a metal garage must be made clear and detailed, with an indication of all the little things regarding fasteners, connections and floors.
The size of the foundation should be 10-15 cm larger than the walls of the building in order to prevent destruction of the edges of the foundation. It must be raised 20 cm or more above the ground to protect the walls from moisture and plants.
When drawing up a garage project, it is better to provide a gable roof. This design is resistant to snow loads.

Based on the drawn up project, the calculation of the material required for the construction is carried out.

Preparatory work. Required materials and tools

After choosing a place to build a garage from metal structures, you need to perform the following actions:

Equip a platform and a canopy for storing materials and tools.
Arrange driveways for a car to bring up everything you need and evacuate construction waste.
Mark out, remove the sod and topsoil.
Carry out the purchase of the necessary property, check the equipment performance.

You will need the following tools and materials for the garage:

welding machine;
Bulgarian;
puncher;
drill;
screwdriver;
roulette;
level;
square;
shovels;
putty knife;
pliers;
hammer;
miter box;
marker;
paint brush;
profile sheets with a thickness of 1.2 mm;
square tube 40 × 100 mm;
hardware (bolts, nuts, screws, rivets, nails);
insulation;
waterproofing.

Erection of a strip or slab foundation for a garage

The foundation for a metal garage can be like this:

Monolithic. The slab is distinguished by its strength, reliability and even distribution of the weight of the structure on the ground. At the same time, the arrangement of a monolithic foundation requires large investments and considerable efforts. This decision is not always justified. The slab is made 25-30 cm thick.
Tape. It is the best option for arranging the base for light structures. The manufacturing process consists of the steps of trenching, setting the formwork, laying the reinforcing frame and pouring concrete. Over time, a concrete floor, a cellar or a viewing hole can be made inside the strip foundation.

Garage frame

To make a metal garage with your own hands, you need to make a strong and stable frame. This design is a parallelepiped made of shaped pipes. To make the structure stronger and more rigid, intermediate vertical struts and horizontal crossbars are being installed. The parts are connected by welding, bolts or rivets. It depends on whether the garage will be solid or collapsible. An opening of the appropriate size is made at the installation site of the gate.

Regardless of the type of foundation, the frame is fixed in it by pre-filling the racks with concrete or connecting with embedded parts. Since the structure will be hidden under a layer of waterproofing and cladding, the metal is treated with anti-corrosion agents.

Step 1: installing the load-bearing beams

The installation of a metal garage begins with the installation of corner and intermediate wall supports. This process is carried out in the following sequence:

Leveling and cleaning from corrosion of embedded parts on the foundation.
Measurement and cutting of blanks from shaped pipes. grinding of welding points.
Applying horizontal beams to embeds. Welding.
Installation of vertical posts on horizontal beams. Fixing the profile with stops and braces. Securing the supports by welding.
Alignment of supports in height. Laying the upper strapping on them and fixing it by welding.
Cleaning joints from sagging and metal points.

The profile can be fastened to steel corners and bolts. This method is more laborious and time consuming. In addition, there is a possibility that the threaded fastener will loosen due to vibration and wind load.

Step 2: installing jumpers

Lintels reinforce the metal frame of the garage and increase its resistance to horizontal and vertical loads. In addition, vertical and horizontal profiles are used for installing insulation, fixing internal and external cladding.

In order for the structure to be durable, vertical lintels should be installed with a step of 60 cm. This format corresponds to the width of stone and glass wool insulation mats. The transverse profiles are placed at a distance of 100-120 cm from each other, depending on the size of the commercially available insulation.

The installation sequence is as follows:

Carrying out measurements, cutting profiles into fragments of the required length.
Shaping the edges of the workpieces into the required shape using a miter box.
Fastening the vertical struts between the upper and lower straps. Clamps are used for fixation.
Welding of vertical supports. Installation of crossbars between vertical lintels.

Step 3: installing the roof

The optimal choice for a light steel structure is a sloping gable roof. To protect the walls from precipitation, the visor must be made 30-40 cm wider than the frame.

The construction of the rafter system is carried out in the following sequence:

Manufacturing of two gables in the form of triangles from shaped pipes.
Installation of gables on the longitudinal supports of the upper harness. Connection of the tops of the triangles with a steel profile.
Installation of vertical jumpers.
Arrangement of horizontal lathing (if tiles will be used as roofing).

After the end of welding, the metal is cleaned of dirt and rust, treated with a primer and covered with acrylic paint.

Wall and roof cladding

Self-assembly of a metal garage can be carried out using profiled or flat panels. Wall profiled sheets are sold already painted and covered with a layer of polymer varnish that protects the products from corrosion. Flat steel sheets need to be handled by yourself. For coating it is better to use a spray gun and acrylic paint.

Roof and wall cladding is performed as follows:

An iron or plastic drip is installed on the base.
The first panel is applied to one of the corners from below.
Fixation of the decoration fragment is carried out. Bolts, screws or rivets are used. It is better to use bolts with a locknut, since the self-tapping screws can be unscrewed, and the rivet connection is one-piece.
The bottom row is going. Docking of panels is carried out on the crate. The joints between the sheets are sealed with mastic or rubber strips.
The second row of sheets is screwed to the frame. An overlay is made on the first row of 10-15 cm.
The roof is being laid. After the installation of the ridge profile, the gables are finished.

Welding and installation of gates

The gate frame consists of 2 rectangles with vertical and horizontal stiffeners. One of the leaves can be equipped with a wicket. Work must be carried out on a firm and level surface. This can be concrete, asphalt, or paving slabs. To protect the surface from damage, you need to put sheets of steel, slate or asbestos cloth on it.

The assembly is carried out according to the following algorithm:

Measurements of openings are carried out. The data is transferred to the profiles from which the workpieces are cut.
The component parts of the frame are laid on the base. They are aligned. Dimensions on the sides and diagonals are checked.
The corners of the frame are spot welded. After the flaps are applied to the opening and their shape is corrected, the final welding is carried out.
Hinges are fixed to the frame of the gate and wicket. It is better to use bolts to prevent the products from overheating.

Finally, the sash is finished with sheet metal.

Insulation of the garage

This event is carried out to prevent the formation of condensation, and to maintain a stable temperature in the building.

Insulation of the garage is carried out in the following sequence:

Internal walls and profiles are covered with a waterproofing layer. For this, a polyethylene film, heated tar or liquid polymer sprayed with a spray gun is used.
Insulation plates are laid inside the profile grating. The mats need to be sized so that they forcefully fit in and are held firmly in place.
A dense cellophane film is fixed on top of the insulated surface. The joints are glued with aluminum tape.

Ventilation device

Supply and exhaust ventilation is installed in the garages. Taking into account the peculiarity of the room, the frequency of air movement in it should be at least 3. The inlet is installed next to the gate at a height of 10 cm from the floor. The hole is closed with a steel mesh to protect it from insects and rodents. The exhaust duct is made of a plastic pipe that rises 100 cm above the roof. An electric fan is used to improve air exchange.

Final finishing

Garages made of metal structures from the inside should be finished with non-combustible materials with hydrophobic properties. The optimal solution is to cover the room with waterproof plasterboard, followed by painting or pasting with washable wallpaper. Another option is to finish the building with an iron or aluminum profile. Good decoration and additional insulation is achieved with the help of facade plaster, which is applied to a steel mesh screwed to the insulation boards.

A metal garage is a practical and convenient building that is perfect for parking a car. The main feature of such a structure is a wide variety, depending only on your desire. Do you want to build a huge room for several cars with a viewing hole? Easy! Or do you need a small building that can fit into or a personal plot? It couldn't be easier! Making a metal garage with your own hands is not difficult if you have the skills, as well as all the necessary tools.

The most important advantage of a metal garage is its low price. If you take on the work yourself, then this will significantly save on the services of construction companies. Other advantages of these buildings include:

speed of construction. The whole process will take no more than one month;
durability and excellent performance properties of the metal. With proper care and handling, it perfectly resists weather conditions, does not rot and allows you to completely isolate the contents of the garage from the external environment;
ease of construction. For such a structure, a too deep foundation is not required, which will save you money and time;
ease of work with the material, a minimum of handy tools.

The structure is based on a metal frame (profiles and corners), to which sheet metal is attached. The garage is often supplemented with runners (if it is supposed to be moved), as well as a layer of insulation to maintain an optimal temperature regime in winter.

Tools and materials for construction

As mentioned earlier, this structure requires a minimum of tools and consumables. To build a metal garage with your own hands, you will need:

ready-made concrete blocks for foundation or concrete mortar with reinforcement;
metal corners 50 mm;
iron sheets with a thickness of up to 3 mm (the optimal size is 2.25-2.5 mm);
welding tool and electrodes;
Bulgarian;
wheels for grinding and cutting;
materials for the manufacture of the lock (hinges, the locking mechanism itself);
floor boards (if a strip foundation is assumed);
metal paint and primer solution.

How to make a metal garage with your own hands: step by step instructions

Construction of a metal garage consists of several step-by-step steps:

Preparation and pouring of the foundation.
Erection of the frame of the structure.
Sheathing with sheet metal.
Gate installation.
Installation of a lock and other locking mechanisms.
Finishing work.

Each of these sections is different and requires strict adherence to instructions for optimal results. Let's consider each of these points in more detail.

Foundation

Metal is a fairly light building material. In this regard, there is no need for a deepening more than 25 cm. There are two main options for filling the pit: with a ready-made concrete slab (pre-reinforced) or self-pouring of the foundation with a concrete solution. The first method will not work if you plan to equip a viewing hole, since there simply will not be room for it. Often the foundation is also the floor of the room. This will save on building materials, while speeding up the process, but will worsen the appearance of the garage.
Which of the ways to form the foundation to choose, of course, is up to you. Adhere to the following rules when carrying out these works:

the upper part of the foundation should rise above ground level by about 15-20 cm. This will exclude the flow of water into the room;
the surface of the slab or hardened mortar must be perfectly flat. Use the level during the construction of the foundation;
if the solid slab was initially uneven, then correct it with gravel;
rods from reinforcement are concreted into the corners of the foundation, which will serve as the basis of the frame;
the foundation should be poured in one day. So you get a monolithic and integral base for future construction.

The standard dimensions of a garage for one car are 3.5x6 m. If you want to additionally insulate the garage, then increase these values by 20 cm on each side.
When the foundation hardens, a layer of waterproofing material (roofing material) is laid on it. The joints of the sheets are covered with mastic. The next layer can be a concrete screed or a plank base, securely embedded in the foundation.

Frame

The material for the frame is a metal corner. Products with a large section should be selected. This gives the structure strength and reliability. The frame is assembled directly at the place of the laid foundation. This process takes place in several stages:

Installation of the lower frame. This structure is attached to pre-prepared rods. At the same time, they remain indoors.
Vertical supports are mounted in the corners.
In front of the structure, two additional corners are installed on both sides. A gate will be installed on them.
All corners are connected from above by frames.

The last stage is the formation of the base for the roof. If you are planning a structure with one slope, then simply bring two additional frames on top of the rest using props. The gable structure will require preliminary preparation of two frame triangles (rafters), which are installed on top of the finished structure, attached with a welding machine or bolts.
To increase the strength of the walls, it is permissible to install additional supports in the horizontal and vertical planes. Be sure to observe a uniform pitch when installing them.

Metal cladding

You can make this material yourself from steel sheets of the required thickness or profiled sheet. You can also buy ready-made sheathing from a hardware store. Preference should be given to galvanized steel. This will prevent corrosion, which will lead to the loss of the original characteristics of the structure. The optimal sheet thickness is 2.25-2.5 mm.
You can fix steel sheets on an already finished frame using a welding machine or bolts and nuts. When installing the cladding on the roof, an overlap of 15-20 cm should be made in relation to the wall in order to ensure an adequate drainage of water from the surface.

Gate installation

The most practical have long been recognized as double-leaf gates, swinging outward. You can make them yourself: first, the frame of each sash is made, and sheets of iron are attached to it. The technique is not very different from the cladding of the walls and roof of the garage. Gate sheets should be thicker (4.5 millimeters or more).
Installation is carried out on internal hinges, which prevents the gate from breaking.

You can also do it yourself, which we have already talked about in the previous topics.

Insulation of walls and gates

It will help to maintain a comfortable indoor temperature, while preventing sudden changes in it. This is one way to combat condensation that appears on the walls and ceiling of the garage. Styrofoam (a type of foam) is perfect as insulation. It has high thermal insulation properties, but is flammable. To insure yourself against a fire, use mineral wool, which is placed between the metal sheathing and other sheet material inside the garage (chipboard, MDF, LDF).

Painting outside

To protect the garage from corrosion, while giving the structure a complete look, various paints for metal are used. It is recommended to use acrylic and alkyd. They set quickly and produce vibrant, saturated colors. It should be noted that alkyd paint is more flammable and toxic than acrylic paint. This is its main disadvantage.
Oil paint is not suitable for external treatment of the structure. It is unstable, while quickly losing its original appearance after rain or snow.

Castle selection

- a guarantee of the safety of the contents of your garage, so do not skimp on its purchase. It must be made of metal with a width of more than 4 mm. Padlocks should be avoided. They are an easy target for burglars. The most optimal would be the installation of overhead and mortise locks. They provide the required degree of protection, while being quite easy to operate. They are attached using a welding machine. Bolts and nuts will not help here, as they are easy to twist and then get into the room.
Another way to protect your garage is by installing a camera. It is unlikely that someone will dare to covet the lock under the close supervision of a video surveillance system.

In a big city, at the present time, having your own garage for your personal car is an incredible success. But the owners of suburban areas not to have a safe haven for a car is simply a shame. It is clear that those who visit their country estates occasionally, only on weekends, are often limited to just a parking area, sometimes supplementing it with a light canopy. Well, those car owners who spend most of their time outside the city or permanently live there are simply obliged to build a real garage to protect their car from precipitation, dust and mud carried by the wind, bird marks, etc. And it’s much safer to sleep, knowing that your car is under lock and key.

Of course, nothing in terms of reliability can be compared with a capital stone (brick) garage, but this business is quite costly, the construction process is quite lengthy, and not everyone has the ability to carry out such large-scale construction work. It's okay - it is quite possible to do with a simpler option by building a metal garage with your own hands. With high-quality assembly and well-carried out insulation, it will also become a quite comfortable "home" for the car. The costs in this case are much lower, but the basic skills of general construction, plumbing and carpentry work must be possessed by the overwhelming majority of Russian men.

Which metal garage to choose for construction?

This question is important from the point of view that everyone's financial capabilities are different, and the degree of availability of this or that metal garage is also different.

A ready-made collapsible factory-made garage - convenient, but, alas, expensive

A. Probably the most convenient option from the point of view of construction is to purchase a ready-made factory kit containing all the parts necessary for assembly. Assembling such a metal garage with your own hands, with the efforts of two or three people, using only the simplest locksmith tools - wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers, a hammer, etc., is not difficult and will take very little time. Of course, in the event that the kit is really high quality, made on modern equipment, and all the parts are precisely matched to one another.

Such kits for the construction of a metal garage are necessarily accompanied by detailed assembly instructions, a responsible manufacturer gives a guarantee for the quality and fit of its product. The convenience also lies in the fact that it is possible to "personalize" the order, that is, to give the manufacturer the exact dimensions that correspond to the plot allocated for construction and the needs of the owner. On the websites of some companies that are engaged in the manufacture of such metal products, there are often special built-in calculators - just enter the dimensions - and the optimal design option will be offered.

Video: assembling a ready-made Zhiguli garage kit

It would seem that this is it, the solution to the problem! But that's just if look at the current prices, then the desire to purchase such a garage can immediately disappear. Great luck if you can find an option for thousands of thousands for 70 ÷ 80. As a rule, a standard-size garage in the basic configuration can cost no less than a used domestic car, "going through the roof" at a price of over a hundred thousand. It is clear that not every average owner of a car can afford such an acquisition.

"Garage calculator" on the website of one of the manufacturers

B. You can, of course, go the other way: look for ads for the sale of used metal prefabricated garages – they are found in a fairly large number. The price here, of course, is already lower, but it can also be considerable, sometimes reaching 40-50 thousand rubles. But, besides this, some other "surprises" may await the buyer:

Acquisition of a metal garage that has already served a considerable time for its installation in a new place is a very risky business.

- Usually the wording “used metal collapsible garage without space” is found, and the new owner is most often charged with the obligation to disassemble and remove all metal structures himself. But it is not so easy to disassemble - for several decades of operation, fasteners can rust very much, and if you use the "force method" or cutting, then there is a great risk of deforming the parts.

- Next - metal parts have probably already received a certain deformation simply "from time", since internal stresses and so-called "metal fatigue"... This means that you can already forget about the exact fit between them - for sure, there will be a lot of problems during assembly. This will certainly affect the overall strength of the newly assembled structure.

“And finally, statistics show that fraudulent schemes are often used in this market segment, when attackers sell an old garage to which they have no ownership.

Thus, you need to think over all the little things very well before purchasing an old collapsible garage.

V. Finally, we come to the option completely. Here everything will depend on the capabilities and abilities of the owner. He himself is free to choose and purchase material for the construction of the frame at a reasonable price. It is possible that some parts can be made from "old stocks" left after the construction of a house or summer cottage.

A metal garage can be completely built independently - from "A" to "Z"

There is a possibility of variation with the material for wall and roof cladding. If the garage will be under almost constant supervision, then it is quite possible to limit yourself to metal corrugated board. In the case when a more reliable structure is needed, I use rolled metal sheet 2 ÷ 3 mm, which, of course, is already much more expensive.

It is also important that the owner himself plans the configuration of the garage, its dimensions along the perimeter, height, type of roof - all this allows you to precisely "fit" your project to the available financial capabilities. If the factory garage kit is purchased at once, then nothing prevents a gradual accumulation of the necessary materials in order to start building. It is possible to independently determine the construction technology - whether this structure will be assembled with threaded connections, or is it better to use welding if you have the appropriate skills and equipment.

In short, why not try doing it yourself? Yes, this is certainly more difficult, but with due diligence, it should work out.

Base for a metal garage

The place for the garage has probably already been determined, but it requires appropriate preparation.

First, it is necessary to carry out the markup, and therefore, to determine the exact dimensions of the future building. It all depends on whether the garage is considered as a narrow, cramped box that only allows you to drive the car and open the side door, or there will be elements of the "garage interior" - a workbench, shelving or a cabinet for spare parts and tools, etc. the owners, of course, will choose the second option, and in this case, the optimal dimensions are 6 × 4 meters.

The height of the gate is from 1.8 to 2 m, taking into account the height of the owner, in order to prevent injury to the head.

The structure must be installed on a level and solid foundation. The best solution would be to build a special foundation. Large loads from the side of the garage itself are not expected, that is, no strong deepening is required.

Very often, preference is given to the strip foundation. It will be enough to deepen the tape into the ground by 200 ÷ 300 mm, the height of the basement and the width of the foundation are also about 200 mm. This option is convenient in that after the construction of the garage, you can additionally arrange a viewing hole or even a cellar inside, and then make a flooring of any type of garage floor.

It makes no sense to consider with all the nuances in this article - all this is much more detailed and understandable in a special publication of the portal.

Another commonly used option is the so-called floating or slab foundation. In this case, the cast monolithic slab becomes not only the basis for the garage structure, but also the subfloor, on which, in principle, it is already possible to drive the car.

What type of concrete foundation not used, it must be carefully aligned horizontally - this will greatly facilitate the further assembly of the garage. It is recommended to pour tape or slabs once, within one day, in order to achieve the required solidity.

A very important issue is the advance installation and embedding of embedded parts in concrete. These can be reinforcing pins with a diameter of 16 mm protruding above the foundation by 150 ÷ 200 mm, or special embedded anchors with a threaded top are used. The lower belt (strapping) of the garage frame will be attached to these parts by welding or threaded connection. Thus, they must be installed and very precisely positioned at least at the corners of the structure, and, if necessary, additionally along the line of the walls.

Sometimes a metal garage is placed without a foundation at all, for example, on an existing asphalt or concreted area. In this case, the fastening of the strapping belt can be carried out with driven anchors.

Another option is when the garage is not attached to the surface at all. So, some craftsmen install their structure on wide runners made from a pipe with a diameter of more than 100 mm. On both sides, bends are made on the runners from a short piece of pipe, installed and welded at an angle, or from a branch of the corresponding diameter. Such a garage can be placed on any solid site, for example, on a layer of packed and compacted rubble. True, inside you will additionally have to make floors from a thick board that can withstand the weight of the car. And besides, it will be necessary to think over the entrance ramp, since the gate will rise above the ground level.

Garage frame

Required materials and tools

The key to the successful construction of a metal garage is a reliable and stable frame. The material for its manufacture can be used - they use corners, rectangular shaped pipes, and even galvanized profiles, which are usually intended for plasterboard structures.

Nevertheless, the use of profile pipes will probably be optimal - they, with a relatively small mass, have excellent indicators of bending strength, and the design will turn out to be reliable. Their convenience lies in the fact that both welding and threaded connections can be used.

About the design. It is difficult to give precise recommendations here - it all depends on the size of the building, the type of roof - single or gable, the cladding material and other parameters, including material capabilities.

On the Internet, it is very easy to find many diagrams and drawings that can be taken in whole or as a basis. In this publication, the process of installing a lightweight frame made of two types of shaped pipes will be considered. It is assumed that the owner does not have welding, or he - the entire assembly will be carried out on threaded connections. Thus, the necessary tools are a standard locksmith's set, open-end and socket wrenches for 10 and 12, an electric drill with a 6.5 mm drill, a grinder with wheels for cutting and grinding metal, a screwdriver. In a word - everything that, as a rule, is in the "home arsenal" of the owner of a country house. Too much physical effort will not be required, so that the work can be done alone, but it is still better to enlist an assistant, since the installation of sufficiently long and cumbersome parts will have to be done.

The diagram of the structure of the garage frame is shown in the figure:

The red lines show the main structural parts. A pipe profile of 50 × 25 mm was used for them. Blue - four frames that reinforce the roof structure. The material is the same, 50 × 25 mm.

Green - additional support legs and cross members. For them, you can purchase a 40 × 20 mm pipe. The same pipes are used to make puffs diagonally at the corners of the side walls - shown with brown lines. This is an optional element which may or may not be used.

Total for the frame you will need:

Pipe sections 50 × 25 mm:

- 6 m - 8 pcs. (4 pcs. - horizontal beams of the side walls);

- 4 m - 7 pcs. (4 pcs. - front and rear wall beams, 3 pcs. - for the base of the pediment rafter triangles).

- 3 m - 8 pcs. (for longitudinal sides of roof frames).

- 2 m - 12 pcs. (4 pcs. - corner posts, 8 pcs. - vertical posts and crossbars of double-leaf gates).

- 2.1 m - 6 pcs. (rafter legs).

- 1.9 m - 8 pcs. (for roof frame cross members).

Pipe sections 40 × 20 mm:

- 6 m - 2 pcs. (additional lintels on the side walls).

- 4 m - 1 pc. (horizontal reinforcing web of the rear wall).

- 2 m - 8 pcs. (reinforcing racks on the walls).

In addition, you will need M6 bolts with a length of 40 and 60 mm with washers, nuts, grovers, etc.

In the prices of the current 2015 year, such a kit at a metal warehouse is quite realistic to purchase for 10 ÷ 12 thousand rubles.

If everything is prepared, you can start assembling the frame.

Installation work

Illustration	Description of the technological operation
	All cut to size delivered to the frame assembly site.
	You can immediately check the completeness, we will lay out the pipes on the site in accordance with the assembly drawing. If there are no fears that they may be kidnapped, then it will be convenient to tai and leave them laid out in their places - then it will take less time to select the necessary parts.
	The assembly of the side walls begins. The crossbars, upper and lower, are attached to the racks (blue arrow). Assembly is carried out using 6x60 bolts.
	The bolt is tightened at the beginning, until the installation of the frame is complete, for now by one nut. Then, when the frame is assembled and carefully aligned in the corners, it will be possible to make the final tightening with the installation of locknuts.
	After fixing the upper and lower crossbars to the racks, a reinforcing jumper is placed in the center between them. There is a nuance - it is impossible to insert a washer and a nut into the pipe, so you have to use a different method. You can go through both profiles, and take a longer bolt. Another option is to use a metal roofing screw. In this case, it is advisable to make a through hole only in the upper wall of the upper profile. In the bottom wall (shown by the arrow), as well as on the second profile, a hole is made either of a smaller diameter, or only outlined (the wall is weakened for a good and reliable passage of the self-tapping screw). In the same way, the central vertical support post is installed, in the center of the structure.
	When both sides are ready (blue arrow), they are connected with horizontal straps (red arrow). This is how a general, already three-dimensional structure is formed.
	In general terms, the shape of the garage frame has been given. Stability is clearly not enough for him yet. It is imperative to align the right angles on each side. The building level is not an assistant to us in this matter - there is no guarantee that the bottom is strictly horizontal. The best option is to measure and compare the diagonals - they should be the same length. You can fix the rectangle by installing inclined fasteners (shown by arrows).
	Close-up puff. Their installation, of course, will increase the overall strength of the structure, but they will also require additional parts - they, for example, do not appear in the list of blanks posted above.
	It is also possible to give rigidity to the frame rectangles with the help of kerchiefs cut from metal 2 mm thick. They can be inserted into the joint by slightly loosening the screw fastening. Then tightening is carried out, the diagonals are aligned, two holes are drilled in the kerchief on each side, and it is already finally attached to the structure, reliably fixing the angle.
	We turn to the assembly of triangles-trusses, which will create rafter pairs and a kind of floor beams. Here, the installation of overlay parts is not very convenient, since there will be difficulties in further sheathing the gables with metal. It is better to make a cutout on one of the rafter legs in the ridge part, and then insert one into the other, finally fixing it with a bolt or a curly metal plate.
	Do the same at the junction of the rafter leg with the horizontal beam. The appropriate cuts are made with a grinder (shown by the arrow), and then the parts are driven into another and fixed with a bolt or self-tapping screw.
	After these triangles are assembled, they are installed and bolted to the horizontal lintels of the front and rear walls. The picture clearly shows the mutual conjugation of the parts - the rafter leg and the beam, inserted into each other.
	The same connector in a different perspective - top view. Then the same structure is attached in the middle of the longitudinal side walls of the frame. The only difference is that it is possible to carry out the installation of the triangle according to a simplified scheme, overlay - in this place it does not really matter.
	You can immediately start preliminary preparation for the gate. For this, hinges are mounted to the side posts of the frame itself on its front side. A vertical gate frame is attached to their reciprocal half.
	The very design of a garage door can be different. In this case, the simplest scheme is shown - with two symmetrical flaps, which are rectangular frames from the same profile pipe. Then, when facing with a metal sheet or wood and when insulating, they can be reinforced with puffs or jumpers.
	It remains to complete the construction of the roof. For this, four frames are being prepared, which will stand between the rafter legs on both slopes. So that all sides of the frames are in the same plane (this is necessary for a snug fit of the roof structure), the parts are not connected into an overlay, but "in a quarter", that is, grooves are outlined and cut out first ...
	... and then the parts are connected and bolted.
	The assembled frames (shown by the arrow) are inserted between the already standing trusses and bolted to the rafter legs. There are four such frames to be assembled and installed in total.
	So in the end, the connecting node will look like in the ridge part of the garage pediment.
	In fact, the assembly of the frame is complete. True, it is worth making one more clarification - the photo shows the assembled structure, which then still underwent minor changes. We are talking again about oblique puffs. The operation of such a frame has shown that too long (3 meters and even 4 - behind) horizontal spans are not a very good solution. Therefore, in the final version, additional vertical posts were used, two for each side and one for the back. It is this option that is shown in the drawing above.

If the garage will be placed on a foundation, then the frame is knitted in a convenient way with embedded anchors or pins. At the same time, they do not forget that waterproofing must be laid between the concrete of the foundation and the metal structure - several layers of roofing material. Then it remains only to finally tighten and fix all connections with locknuts, process all the details anti-corrosion soil - and you can go on to the wall cladding.

Wall and roof cladding

Actually, the most difficult stage of construction is over. If a high-quality frame is ready, then it will not be difficult to carry out the outer wall cladding and put the roof.

Installation of walls can be carried out both on (but only when using rolled metal sheet) and on threaded connections. You can use bolts by drilling through holes for them in vertical and horizontal parts, and then tightening the fasteners from the inside. When sheathing from corrugated board is installed, special self-tapping screws for it are quite acceptable. True, at the same time, one should not forget that it will not be difficult for an attacker to dismantle such a fastening without opening the garage door, so this option is called with a certain degree of caution. Often, rivets are used to fasten corrugated sheets.

The cut sheets are driven as tightly as possible to each other (if sheet metal with a thickness of 2 mm or more is used), or laid with an overlap, with mandatory fixation, including along the overlap line. When using corrugated board, the task is simplified - there the sheets simply overlap by one wave, thereby aligning vertically.

In the version of the frame, which was considered in the article, it is likely that it will also be necessary to install wooden slats (boards) on the outside of the vertical racks (boards) so that all the parts come out on the same plane. The slats can be fixed to the profile pipes with self-tapping screws.

The frame structure of the roof allows you to make any type of wooden lathing (solid or with a certain pitch) on it for fastening the roofing material. You can get by and easier - fix the sheets of corrugated board directly to the metal parts. True, in our case they are spaced far enough away, and the crate still does not interfere. Moreover, it will be necessary if, for example, slate or soft roofing is planned.

When installing the roofing, one should not forget about the eaves overhang, at least by 150 ÷ 200 mm - this will to some extent protect the walls from direct rain. It is even better if the installation of gutters is provided on both sides. Since in the considered version the roof is gable, a ridge profile will also be needed, covering the joint of the two halves of the roof.

Practice shows that the entire garage on a metal frame (which was described in the article), completely covered with inexpensive corrugated board, will cost about 25 thousand rubles. This cost, of course, does not include the "zero cycle" and insulation measures. But even when purchasing an expensive prefab garage, the buyer also only pays for the metal box.

Insulation of a metal garage

In fact, after the wall cladding and the installation of the roof, the hinge of the gate with the installation of locks, the work on assembling the metal garage can be considered almost complete. If the entrance is equipped, if necessary, and a reliable one is laid (there is a special publication about this on the portal), then you can safely drive a car into it

However, the caring owner will not be too lazy. take action, in order to maximally protect your four-wheeled pet from the winter cold or from the metal walls that heat up in the sun in the summer. In short, it is advisable to immediately address the issues of thermal insulation of the garage.

Before carrying out the insulation, it is imperative to revise the surface of the metal walls from the inside. If it's bare metal, then it is necessary to treat it with anti-corrosion primer.

As a heater, ordinary polystyrene foam blocks, with a thickness of about 50 mm, are very often used. They are placed between the frame posts, and the foam can be fixed with glue directly to the surface of the walls. To insulate the flow, you can make a light "filing" of beams to the existing transverse beams, supplementing it with a rough surface (top) made of second-rate boards. It will also be easy to lay insulation blocks between the beams of such a ceiling frame.

Warming with expanded polystyrene in a garage is a rather risky decision

Expanded polystyrene, of course, has high thermal insulation qualities, is cheap and very easy to use. But he also has such qualities that call into very great doubt the advisability of using it in the garage. First, it is not a non-flammable material, and the proximity to flammable liquids in itself will pose a certain threat. In the event of a fire, such insulation will become one of the hotbeds. And the second is the chemical instability of the material to many technical fluids (for example, organic solvents), which are often used in garages, especially if a mini-workshop is also equipped here. And the likelihood of such chemical reagents getting on the walls, although small, is still there. And the last - with strong heating (for example, from red-hotin the sun of metal walls) polystyrene foam of low quality can emit a rather pungent odor. It will be very unpleasant if the interior of the car is also saturated with this smell.

Mineral wool is the best option in the triad "safety - quality - price"

In terms of practicality and safety, mineral wool will be the undisputed leader in these conditions. ITS rolls (mats) are rolled out between the frame posts, or for insulation, a wooden crate is specially mounted on the walls inside. The step of the guides and their thickness should ideally correspond to the width and thickness of the mineral wool roll. It will be easy to temporarily fix the insulation by pulling a nylon cord in a zigzag manner between adjacent guides.

The most reliable solution would be spraying liquid on the inner surface of the walls of the garage. It quickly gains a volumetric shape and solidifies in a continuous layer, leaving no "cold bridges". There is only one drawback of this approach to insulation - it is impossible to carry out it independently, without special equipment and work skills, and services for such thermal insulation are very expensive.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Video: insulating a garage with sprayed polyurethane foam

The insulated surface of the walls and curtain is closed with a finishing finish. Most often, either plywood is used for this, or, which is much better, sheets. After such cladding, you can proceed to the arrangement of garage furniture, the installation of lamps (if any), the canopy of shelves or cabinets, etc.

The issues of garage insulation are discussed in great detail in a separate publication of the portal. It is, however, more dedicated, but in the case of a frame metal garage, the technology is exactly the same.

That's all, it remains to put the final polish, if necessary - paint the garage outside with durable atmospheric paint for metal - and you can "celebrate housewarming"!

Video: a simple option for a light metal garage or barn

You can build a garage with your own hands from various building materials, but it is they that ensure the reliability and durability of the structure. So, a garage made of lightweight shield materials can be assembled in 2-3 days, and even insulated in case of cold weather, but will such a building be reliable, durable and easy to use? Therefore, before building a garage, it is necessary to develop a project with reference to the area and specific materials, draw up drawings and think over all the necessary functions and amenities that the garage must perform. After the procurement of materials, the choice of construction tools and the choice of construction technology, work can begin.

Dimensions of a homemade garage

Building codes and regulations No. 2.07.01-89 and No. 21-01-97 regulate the construction of a separate or attached garage according to its size and location of the facility:

Distance to the neighboring garage or land plot ≥1 meter, distance from the adjacent housing ≥ 6 meters;
Garage doors must not be located on the same line with the "red line", the minimum distance from it is ≥5 meters. The "red line" separates the boundaries of land plots. This is a conditional border, which is indicated by a red line on the map and separates a specific area from neighboring quarters and microdistricts, streets, roads and driveways, squares and centralized utilities;
A standard garage for one car has dimensions of 3 x 5 meters, for two cars - more on all sides by 4.5-5 meters. The height of the garage should be at least 2-2.5 meters, the free distance around the car should be 1 meter.

The dimensions of the future garage affect the comfort of its operation. On a small plot of land, everyone inevitably strives to save space, but the minimum size of the garage should not deviate from the following requirements:

The minimum garage height should be 50 cm higher than the average person's height;
The minimum width of the garage should be based on the width of the car with an added 80 cm;
The minimum garage length must be 1.5 times the length of the vehicle.

The cheapest homemade garage project is from a metal profile. With appropriate external and internal insulation, anti-corrosion protection and a reliable foundation, such a structure will serve for a long time - several decades. Any drawing of a garage from a metal profile is based on the foundations of frame construction, that is, first a metal frame is created, which is then sheathed with a professional sheet or other sheet metal rolled, insulated and decorated (also outside and inside). The installation of the frame is carried out using the same technology for all structures based on metal frame elements.

Types of roofing for a garage

The roof of such a garage is usually made single-pitched, since it is the simplest, but reliable and cheapest structure. The lower roof slope runs parallel to one of the garage walls so that it slopes towards the windward side. The slope of the roof slope must ensure the unhindered flow of snow, melt or rainwater. To correctly calculate the slope angle of the slope, the following factors should be taken into account:

Climatic and geographic zone. A pitched roof with a slope of 5-7 ° is widely used in regions with moderate average annual precipitation or in regions with strong winds;
Roofing type. Decking can be installed on any type of roof;
The architecture of the object and the correspondence of the garage to the general appearance of the architectural complex, if there are adjacent garages or other buildings.

Important! The slope of a single-pitched roof of a garage made of metal profiles should be no more than 30 °.

A diagram of a metal profile garage with a pitched roof is shown in the figure below:

The rafter rafter system uses wooden beams to support the rafters. The lower part of the structure is attached to the vertical beams, the upper part is supported by the purlins. In this scheme, the roof frame is first mounted, then the ridge. The rafters are attached on opposite sides in pairs and attached to the frame;
The hinged rafter scheme is made with the rafters resting on the garage walls, the whole system is assembled from triangular-shaped trusses - wooden or metal. Since the garage itself will be assembled from a metal profile, it is also recommended to assemble the roofing system from metal elements for a reliable joint.

Important: The roof rafter system is assembled if there are two or more cars in the garage, and in the box itself there will be additional supports or an internal partition. It is optimal to mount the slab structure for garages with spans up to 5 meters.

A metal garage is rarely attached to a house made of any building materials, but if it is necessary to implement such a combination, you should know some features:

The common wall should be insulated with non-combustible materials, since a garage, even a metal one, increases the risk of fire;
The base of the garage should be the same depth as the base of the house. This is necessary so as not to cause deformations of the main foundation when attaching the garage;
The garage roof slope should be below the roof of the house. To prevent the foundation of the garage from being flooded with melt or rainwater, a blind area with waterproofing is made around the garage base. The joint of roofing materials of the house and garage is also waterproofed;
The angle of inclination of the garage roof must be greater than the angle of the roof of the house;
The decorative finish of the extension garage must match the decorative finish of the exterior walls of the house.

It will take up to two months to build a garage from a metal profile - such a rather long period is obtained due to the need to fill in a shallow strip foundation, which will set and harden for at least 28 days. The assembly of the frame and the sheathing with the profiled sheet take much less time.

Sheathing of the frame with profiled sheet

The first sheet is fastened with rivets or bolts at the corner of the frame;
The second sheet is mounted with an overlap on one wave of corrugated board. The overlap is sealed and the joints are bolted together. Thus, the entire frame is sheathed;
The frame for the gate leaves is closed with corrugated wall sheeting;
The roof rafter system is covered with waterproofing, a drainage system is mounted;
Wind strips are attached to the roof lathing.

Sheathing of the roof with sheets of corrugated board:

The first sheet is attached on top of the side wind bar, the corrugated board is leveled and fastened with self-tapping screws with silicone gaskets through the wave at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other;
The remaining sheets of corrugated board are overlapped with a distance of 7-10 cm.

The result of independent work will be a garage from a metal profile, which will need to be insulated from the inside.

Metal garage It has an outer cladding and sheet metal roof. For these purposes will go:

Sheet steel:

with a galvanized coating on a stainless steel base, from 0.4 to 2 mm thick;
hot rolled (0.5 - 4.0 mm thick), ordinary sheet, cut, preferable for all types of welding.

Profiled sheet(corrugated board) С or НС - cold-rolled sheet material 0.8 mm thick with a wavy profile and wave height from 8 to 44 mm:

with double-sided galvanized coating;
with decorative paintwork (GOST 30246);
with a double-sided polymer coating (polyester - economical, pural, PVDF - universal).
with one-sided zinc-polymer coating.

Sandwich panel- multilayer wall and roofing material (metal, heat insulator, polyurethane foam adhesive layer).

Reference: How to build a sandwich panel metal garage? By collapsible technologies.

How to assemble a metal garage?

By itself, the metal sheet is not capable of withstanding the bearing load. For these purposes you will need power frame... It will also be made of metal. Depending on the functional features of the building, the following are suitable:

steel pipes of oval or rectangular profile 25x50 and 20x40;
corner 35x35;
steel channel.

Connect all of these the elements among themselves you can:

detachable connection (bolts, self-tapping screws for metal);
one-piece connection (electric spot welding).

Choice connection type will simplify or complicate the construction process.

If a screwdriver is sufficient to connect with detachable fasteners, then welding will require not only a welding machine, but also the ability to use it, the skills of obtaining a reliable weld.

Why is it worth building?

On what basis can you put metal garage? Since the garage weighs a little more than 1 ton, you can do either with a foundation, and when erected for a while - without it at all, mounting on drop-in anchors.

Things to consider:

Iron for garage does not store heat, heats up quickly and cools down just as quickly.
The appearance of condensation on the inner walls provokes the process rusting.
In a fire, the contents burns out.
Hack collapsible metal structure and even taking it out is not such a tricky business.

Suitable option for suburban area will:

prefabricated garage from ready-made factory constructions; it is easily assembled (if there is a ready-made foundation) by 2 workers in 6 hours;
prefab garage on a metal frame; technology available to anyone who owns a locksmith's tool and is familiar with the basics of construction work; allows you to use used sheets and elements of rolled products;
c spruce-welded construction, the reliability of which is higher, as are the requirements for the professionalism of the performers.

How to make iron garage on the foundation? With one metal not enough.

Materials and tools

For installation work foundation:

Tools:

tape measure and level;
cord for marking;
bayonet shovel;
concrete mixer;
rule.

Material:

river sand;
fine gravel;
roll waterproofing;
formwork board;
reinforcing bar (6-8mm);
knitting wire;
dry mix M 400;
embedded anchors or metal pins.

For installation frame:

Tools:

screwdriver;
scissors and a hacksaw for metal;
electric saw;
welding machine.

Important: To build a garage with your own hands from metal, you need to choose the warm season, given that concreting will take 2 weeks and a week to assemble the frame and cladding. For insulation and interior decoration, flooring will have to be sketched out for another week - in a month the metal garage will be ready. One condition - you need partner.

Sequence of work

DIY construction of a garage from metal structures - algorithm of actions:

Training construction site, alignment of contour lines by level.
Base marking.
Soil preparation for foundation:

digging a trench (for a strip foundation) or holes (for a columnar or pile foundation);
the device of formwork from boards or OSB to form a basement.

Device foundation:

waterproofing the outer walls of the foundation with a roll sealant;
reinforcement with a metal bar of the trench space;
laying at the corners of anchors or protruding metal pins for future fixation of the frame;
pouring concrete M 400.

Preparation of a pit for or - a vegetable store.

For your information: The soil taken from the pit can be evenly scattered over the surface inside the garage, thereby raising it to the level of the basement.

Inspection pit (caisson) device:

filling the bottom of the pit with a mixture of sand and gravel;
sealing the bottom and walls with a film sealant;
installation of the floor and walls of the pit made of brick or concrete (laying the caisson).
edge decoration with a metal corner.

Erection carrier frame:

waterproofing the upper surface of the foundation with a roll sealant;
installation of the lower frame trim, fixing it with embedded parts;
installation of bearing racks in the corners;
construction of the upper harness;
installation of additional racks, horizontal elements, spacers;
reinforcement of the door frame and installation of hinges;
installation of rafter structures (for a gable roof) or floors (for a pitched roof);
applying a protective layer of paintwork on the frame.

How to make metal garage?

1- gate;

4- pediment;

5- roof trusses;

6, 11, 12, 13 - lower frame strapping;

8.9 - outer skin;

10. - corner posts;

17 - skate;

19 - roof;

23, 25 - upper frame strapping;

I- II- bolted connection of the frame;

III - fastening the base of the rafters;

IV - assembly unit of the upper strapping.

For your information: The frame can also be erected in a modular way - on a flat surface. And then assemble the entire structure from the wall modules, fixing it with bolts at the level of the lower and upper strapping.

Overlapping installation outer cladding from sheet metal using self-tapping screws with rubber gaskets.

Roofing device:

lathing of the rafter base;
installation at the rear wall of the exhaust pipe of ventilation;
decking of roofing material (corrugated board) with overhangs for rainwater drainage.

Device rough gender:

the compacted soil is covered with sand;
roofing material is laid;
reinforced with a metal mesh;
pour concrete M 300;
align with beacons;
on the screed, after it has grabbed, logs are laid under the finishing floor from a grooved board, or a rubberized coating (rolled or in the form of rugs) is laid on glue.

The garage floor can be double processing subfloor with a special compound, which after hardening gives an elastic rubberized layer with a 10-year guarantee. For reliability, you can apply 4 layers of such a coating under the studded rubber.

Manufacturing for the garage:

frame assembly;
facing with sheet material of the door leaf;
inset at the bottom of the supply ventilation grill;
hinge fastening and gate hinge;
installation of an opening (lifting) mechanism, bolts, locks.

Taking into account the protective coating of the cladding, for the temporary placement of the car for the warm season - the amount of work sufficient... If the vehicle has to stand in the garage all winter, and from time to time also leave, keeping readiness for this, then you will have to take care of insulation.

How to make a metal garage with your own hands - drawing, payment:

How and with what is insulated?

If you thought about insulation at the design stage, carcass can become a convenient base for placing foam or polystyrene boards 50 mm thick. It is possible to fix the insulation slabs in the niches with ᴓ6mm reinforcing bars welded on top, or by placing the insulation on glue.

It is advisable to pull over the insulation vapor-permeable membrane from natural vapors that are inevitable during the operation of the garage.

But the safest thermal insulator for a garage would be mineral wool, which is fixed between the struts with a tension nylon cord. This method of insulation will require a fine interior finish to give the walls an aesthetic appearance. For fine finishing interior walls of the garage are used:

metal and wooden lining;
drywall for painting.

Important: So that the insulation is not formal, it is necessary to simultaneously insulate the roof, the gate, and the floor.

Installation

What to put a metal garage on? On the runners... This type of base is only used for metal garages. The skids allow you to install the structure on any flat surface, move it like a trailer to a new installation location.

Mounting on runners- type of welded work, in which:

Steel pipes ᴓ10-15 cm and in length, coinciding with the length of the garage, are cut from one side at an angle of 45◦;
2 pieces of pipes are welded to the cuts, forming a bend of the runners.
The runners are welded to the base of the lower frame harness along the entire length.
The ends of the pipes are welded.
A layer of bitumen is applied to the runners to protect the metal from corrosion.

How to install a metal garage correctly?

Installation garage metal on runners requires:

wooden floor devices;
devices of an inclined platform (ramp) for the vehicle to enter the garage, since the skids create a difference in ground and floor levels.

Reference: How to raise a metal garage? Via jack.

To transport a metal garage and install a reliable foundation for it, you need to know the total weight of the structure. Calculations it's easy to do by simple arithmetic operations, if you know:

total volume of walls and roofs (product of area and thickness of structural elements);
specific gravity of the metal.

Specialists who are engaged in the manufacture of metal garages indicate weight in 1, 2 tons.

Ventilation system

For a safe stay in a metal garage that has no windows, you need ventilation system... The iron of the garage does not allow air exchange through the walls. Even with the door open in the back of the room, you can get caught in the harmful effects of gasoline vapors.

Ventilation in metal garage do it yourself:

At the design stage, the elements supply and exhaust system:

barred opening for fresh air in the lower part of the gate;
exhaust pipe in the roof, diagonally from the inlet.

Important: The diameter of the exhaust pipe of a standard garage should be 15cm(1 cm per 1 cubic meter of garage space). Top covers the pipe cap from getting inside precipitation. The inlet opening should be 1.5-2 times larger.

Cold air enters the room along the bottom, heats up from the car, is saturated with volatile vapors, rises up and stretched out into the pipe. This is how natural ventilation works in accordance with the laws of physics.

Ventilation in a metal garage will turn into combined ventilation if you put fan... Fully automate this process in a garage of this kind doesn't make sense.

Outcome: A metal garage cannot be compared in reliability and comfort with a permanent brick structure, but the speed of its installation and the simplicity of its design inspire many craftsmen to build with their own hands. metal box for auto.