Do-it-yourself garage. Do-it-yourself lifting gates: installation features of swing and sectional gates. Video on how to assemble a garage door with a lifting mechanism with your own hands

Independent production of garage doors allows not only significant savings, compared with the option of purchasing and installing ready-made ones, but also brings moral satisfaction. It is much more pleasant for any owner to exploit something made by himself. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that this structural element is not at all simple, and the importance of high-quality, reliable and beautiful garage doors is obvious.

Types of structures

Before proceeding directly to the manufacturing process, it is necessary to determine the type of construction. In recent years, overhead gates have gained popularity. They are of two types:

  1. Lifting sectional; (on the picture);
  2. lifting and turning; (See photo).

Garage door installation technology

We propose to consider the technology of creating up-and-over doors, as the most simple and inexpensive to manufacture. Having decided on the type of construction, you can go directly to the consideration of instructions for the manufacture and installation of lifting gates with your own hands.

Before starting installation work, it is necessary to complete the finishing of the adjacent ceiling and walls. Floor concreting work is allowed to be carried out after the installation of the gate.

Step-by-step instruction:

  1. Assemble the frame from the bars (one transverse, two longitudinal).
  2. Fasten the timber between the plates.
  3. The frame from below should be deepened into the floor by 2 centimeters.
  4. Fasten the box with pins in the gate opening.
  5. Assemble the door leaf from the selected materials.
  6. Sheathe the canvas with sheet metal.
  7. From the existing corner, make a support for the mechanism.
  8. Make holes (d = 10 mm) for mounting the bracket with a spring.
  9. Make two holes (d = 10 mm) in the rails located longitudinally.
  10. Make a control plate.
  11. Connect the adjusting plate spring and bracket.
  12. From the corner, make a hinge assembly.
  13. Weld the frame and hinge assembly.
  14. From two corners, make rails along which the canvas will move.
  15. Weld a plate with holes and a guide.
  16. Fasten the channel with a bolt to the beam on the ceiling.

At the first stage, the frame is assembled, then holes for the mounting brackets are drilled. After that, the box is installed and leveled, the holes between the profile and the wall are sealed with mounting foam. Be sure to check the level of the correct installation of the frame.


The next stage of work is fixing the guides to the ceiling. Then the canvas is assembled and inserted into the skids. Springs and levers are installed to ensure the lifting and movement of the canvas. On all sides of the shield, a profile for edging is installed without fail, and from below - a restrictive bar that protects the gate stop from corrosion.


Necessary materials:

  • Wooden bars 120 * 80 in size (used for the box) and 100 * 100 millimeters (used in the manufacture of ceiling rails);
  • Metal pins;
  • Spring. The minimum diameter is 3 centimeters;
  • Corner for the frame and guide rails 3.5 * 3.5 * 0.4 and 4 * 4 * 0.4 mm, respectively;
  • Bracket from a channel 8 * 4.3 * 0.5 centimeters;
  • A rod (approximate diameter 0.8 cm) for the manufacture of a voltage regulator.

Video instruction:

The most important points to pay attention to:

  • The location of the guides must be strictly horizontal. This is necessary to avoid jamming the web during movement. The best option is to install hinge systems;
  • It is necessary to correctly adjust the spring tension of the gate mechanism in order to ensure the stability of any position of the leaf;
  • In order to safely operate the gate, it is recommended to install safety stops to fix the leaf in one position or another.

The opening and closing of the lift-and-turn type gates is carried out either manually or by means of an electric drive, which is started by a button or a remote control. The latter option is obviously more convenient.

Lift-and-turn design features

The principle of operation of this type of gate is that the door leaf, consisting of a single leaf, rises to the ceiling when opened. The movement of the sash is provided by the action of a hinged-lever device.

Design advantages:

  • Relatively high strength and resistance against breaking and possible penetration;
  • Noiselessness of work;
  • Possibility of making your own.

Self-manufacturing

  • Structurally, the gate consists of three main elements:
  • box or frame;
  • Movable sash;
  • A device that opens and closes a gate.

The box is the basis of the structure, it is made of beams, steel or wooden. Guides are mounted in it, along which the sash moves.

The lifting sash itself is made in the form of a single sheet of different materials: a sheet of boards sheathed with metal, a sandwich panel, etc. A variant is often used using a shield made of boards, which is sheathed on the outside with galvanized iron, and inside is pasted over with polystyrene foam or some other heat-insulating material. No less popular is the design of galvanized steel sheets, coated on both sides with protective compounds, and a heater located between the sheets. Expanded polystyrene or extruded polystyrene is used as a heater. It is allowed to install a gate in the canvas or install anti-vandal roller shutters (Alutech) from the front side of the structure.

Another video about the features of making your own hands:

The mechanism that opens the gate is made according to the drawings and diagrams or is bought ready-made. The second option is quite acceptable, since there is a large offer of such products on the market at quite reasonable prices.

Gates of lifting sectional type

The main feature of overhead sectional doors is the presence of a leaf made up of a number of about half a meter panels. During the opening process, the canvas moves to the ceiling, when closing, it accordingly returns down to its original position. The panels are connected by hinged loops, the canvas moves along the guide skids.


Panels are usually made from various materials: steel, plastic, and wood are used. For effective thermal insulation, the internal filling of the gate is made of polyurethane foam.

Design advantages:

  • Simplicity of design;
  • Operational safety;
  • Relatively good strength.

Design cons:

  • Low resistance to breaking;
  • Sufficiently high noise level;
  • Difficulty in making your own.

It seems unrealistic to make such gates on your own, since almost all structural elements require a factory level of manufacture for reliable operation. Otherwise, you will have to sacrifice the performance of the design. The only possible saving option is self-assembly of the purchased ready-made kit.

Up-and-over doors are one of the most expensive, but at the same time reliable and practical garage structures. When opened, they lie horizontally and move outward somewhat, thereby creating a visor over the entrance.

About the features of the system, as well as how to assembledo-it-yourself swing gateswill be discussed in this article.

The main feature of the panel gate (another name for the lift-and-turn mechanism) is the simplicity of the design. The canvas, mounted on the frame, moves around the axis along the metal guides, moving from a vertical position to a horizontal one and vice versa.

Note! The frame is the leading element of the gate, which is usually made of rectangular steel tubes.

By means of special rollers and lifting levers, the canvas moves along the rails and is fixed at the level of the ceiling of the room. At the same time, the lower half of the structure also rises and protrudes slightly forward. Special compensation springs are free in the open position and stretched in the closed position.

Here are the main types of construction:

  • hinged - a more popular option, in which the shield moves freely, but the compensation springs need to be carefully adjusted;
  • on counterweights - in this case, a cable is attached to the frame, and on the opposite side of the winch - a counterweight (used mainly for heavy gates).

In addition, the control of the panel structure can be both manual and automatic (often with the help of a remote control).

Main advantages

  1. For such gates, a durable solid leaf is used, which is an additional protection against burglary and unauthorized entry.
  2. The mechanism can be installed on double and single gates.
  3. If all the requirements for manufacturing and installation are met, then the gate will not be subject to corrosion and aggressive environmental influences.
  4. The rollback can be carried out manually or an automatic system can be installed.
  5. Unlike other garage door designs, panel doors do not require additional opening space.
  6. For insulation of the gate, you can use ordinary foam.
  7. Facing can be carried out with any available material, even panels and decorative inserts are allowed.

Design flaws

As for the shortcomings, they are often associated with the features of the system and some limitations.

  1. Gates can only be installed in rectangular openings.
  2. After installation, gaps may form between the frame and the shield. To eliminate them, sealing material can be used, but still, panel doors are not recommended for installation in heated garages.
  3. In the open position, the design slightly reduces the height of the opening (by about 25 cm).
  4. The springs themselves are calculated for a certain weight, so when installing thermal insulation, you need to take into account the mass of the insulation. If, after insulation, the mass of the gate is too large, then counterweights will be required.
  5. The integrity of the canvas is not only an advantage, but also a disadvantage, since repair of their individual sections is impossible.

Having dealt with the design features, you can proceed directly to the installation work.

Stage 1. Selection of materials

In this case, it all depends on the canvas and the design features of the mechanism.

The simplest gates are assembled from the following materials:

  • wooden blocks - 120x80 mm for the box, 100x100 mm for the ceiling;
  • canvas;
  • steel pins;
  • electric drive;
  • corners with dimensions of 35x35x4 mm and 40x40x4 mm;
  • steel bar ø8 mm;
  • channel 43x80x5 mm;
  • spring ø30 mm (inside diameter indicated).

Note! For the canvas, a plank board upholstered with tin, a “sandwich” or a monolithic structure is taken.

It is easier to make a shield from boards and cover its surface with a special protective compound. Styrofoam is excellent as thermal insulation, and plastic or wooden panels are excellent as exterior finishes.

Stage 2. Preparing the necessary equipment

In order to independently build up-and-over doors, you must prepare in advance:

  • building level;
  • welding machine;
  • hammer;
  • grinder;
  • marker;
  • electric drill;
  • set of drills;
  • screwdriver
  • wrenches of the appropriate size.

Further work can be divided into two stages - the design of the gate and the assembly itself.

Stage 3. Drawing up a project

Garage doors, like any other complex structure, need to be drafted in advance. To do this, the opening is measured, all necessary calculations are carried out and a drawing is drawn up.

Video - Opening

Stage 4. Garage door installation technology

After preparing and purchasing everything you need, you can start manufacturing.

Step 1. First, a box is mounted from wooden bars, iron plates or squares are used for fastening.

Step 2. Then the box is installed in a pre-cleaned opening and fixed with pins. It is important that its lower part is deepened into the screed by about 2-3 cm.

Video - Gate frame

Step 3. The canvas is being assembled - a shield is installed, the structure is covered with sheet metal.

Step 4. Next, using the corners, a support for the mechanism is assembled. In one of the shelves, three holes ø10 mm are made for the bracket, in the other - only two, for fastening to horizontal racks. The bracket itself will act as a support for the spring.

Step 5. To connect the spring to the bracket, an adjusting spring is used (it is made from a narrow metal strip). The last turns will serve as hooks. It turns out that a thread is cut on one side, and a kind of ring is formed on the other.

Step 6. For the manufacture of the hinge assembly, a corner with a hole (ø8.5 mm) is used - it is welded between the center of the groove for the lifting mechanism and one of the frame ribs. The distance should be approximately 120 mm.

Step 7. A plate with a pre-drilled hole for the tension adjuster is attached to the lever.

Step 8. Two corners are used to make the rail. The shelves of the corners are welded so that the distance between the upper parts is approximately 50 mm.

Step 8. One side of the finished rail is welded to the plate at approximately 80mm. Pieces of a channel about 150 mm are attached to the other side. After that, the channel is fixed with a bolt on the upper bar.

Video - Installation of guides, part 1

Video - Installation of guides, part 2

Video - Installation of guides, part 3

Video - Installation of guides, part 4

Video - Installation of guides, part 5

Step 9. Upon completion of installation, the gate is painted.

Note! It is desirable to paint all hard-to-reach places of the structure even before the start of assembly.

Video - Almost finished gate

There are a number of important points to consider when assembling a gate of this type.

  1. As an automatic lift, you can use a conventional car alarm.
  2. To fasten all the elements, it is better to use a welding machine - this will reduce the number of holes.
  3. For the drive, a reverse self-locking winch is ideal, which is powered by a 220 V network and has a pulling force of at least 120 kg.
  4. The minimum opening height should be 220 cm, and the distance between the ceiling and the upper part of the structure should be 40-50 cm.
  5. Of great importance is the weight of the garage door. Ideally, it should not exceed 100 kg.
  6. At low lift, the drum is placed at the rear.
  7. The lower profile of the leaf must be equipped with a special groove for installing sealing material.
  8. The guides must be located exclusively horizontally, otherwise the canvas will get stuck when moving. For alignment between the channel and the beam, you can put a few washers.

Note! The canvas can be equipped with small inserts made of translucent material - this will significantly improve the lighting of the garage. You can also take care of a security system that will protect against hacking or pinching.

Installing the counterweight

As noted earlier, instead of hinges, you can equip the system on counterweights. To do this, follow these steps.

Step 1. A cable is attached to the lower edges of the frame. Next, the cable rises and passes through the block.

Step 2. A counterweight is installed at the other end of the cable - for example, a strong iron box filled with stones.

Note! Instead of a box, it is better to use an old elevator counterweight, although it is quite difficult to get one.

The greater the weight of the canvas, the heavier the counterweight should be (maximum - 500 kg).

Video - Installing a counterweight

Of course, this mechanism has some drawbacks. So, to open the gate, great physical effort is required, and the design itself is unsafe - if the cable slips, then the counterweight will simply fall off. But if the gate is too heavy, then with due attention, you can safely abandon the traditional springs.

Note! For cargo, it is necessary to equip a special niche where it will lie down when the gate is raised.

If the gate is light enough, then the counterweight can be replaced with an electric winch.

As a conclusion

A lift-and-turn design is one of the cheapest ways to close a garage opening without compromising the functionality of the room, while the original design remains unchanged. For a more detailed acquaintance with the technology of installation and assembly, it is recommended to watch a video on the topic.

Video - Manufacturing of lifting gates

The garage becomes an integral part of any home or cottage, since almost every family has a car and very often there is more than one. As you understand, a garage cannot exist without high-quality, reliable and convenient gates, so it is necessary to approach the choice of the design of future gates very carefully.

Types of lifting gates

Today, lifting gates have become commonplace and are very common. Their main advantage is the incredible functionality and comfort of use.

Due to their compactness, they are great for all types of garages and yards, can work in tight spaces and save you time and effort when opening. Today there are such types of lifting gates:

Lifting sectional

The main canvas consists of panels that are assembled into a single non-rigid structure and are able to bend as they rise and align into a rigid canvas when closed.

Sectional lifting gates

lifting and turning

The front panel is solid and absolutely not deformable. The rise of such a structure occurs along a curved path, the upper part goes a little deeper into the garage, about thirty percent of the total height, and the lower part goes out, the remaining segment.

One or another variety should be selected taking into account your preferences and the characteristics of the garage itself, as well as the amount of free space near the entrance. Also consider the cost, as well as the complexity of self-assembly, since both of these parameters will differ for each type.

The most common type of garage door at the moment is the garage door lift-and-turn.

Further, in the article you will learn how to make a lifting gate with your own hands, but first you need to know the design of the overhead gate. They consist of a frame that is securely fixed in the garage opening, the door leaf itself and a mechanism that carries out movement.

The upper edge is fixed on two slats along which it moves on rollers approximately at a height of two-thirds from the lower edge, side rollers are fixed, which move along the side rivers. The entire system is set in motion by one or two drives, or in extreme cases this is a manual opening of the gate.

We collect the necessary materials and tools

Depending on the features and type, the amount and type of material will vary, but for the simplest gates that you can easily make with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

  • Wooden bars with a section of 120x80 and 100x100, for the box and ceiling, respectively.
  • Metal pins for fastening.
  • Corners for the frame and rail, 35x35x4 and 40x40x4.
  • Channel bracket 80x45.
  • Spring, with an inside diameter of 30 millimeters.
  • Metal rod with a diameter of 8 millimeters.
  • Actually, the canvas itself.
  • If required then buy an actuator for automation.

Of the tools, you will need the simplest things that you can easily find in your garage, namely: a hammer, tape measure, pencil, a set of wrenches, a drill, a level, screwdrivers, metal and wood drills, a grinder and a welding machine.

Step by step instructions

The whole installation process is quite simple and will take place according to the following plan:

  • Frame manufacturing.
  • Installation of rollers.
  • Create a shield.
  • Installation of additional elements.

So, we begin the process with the design of the future structure. It is best to do this in advance so that in the process of work you do not have any hitches and difficulties with calculations, since your head will be busy with many different things to do, and the work will move very slowly, and the result may turn out to be of less quality.

Step 1: Measuring the opening

First of all, measure the garage opening, and then transfer it to paper. Based on the resulting values, you make a small sketch of the future design, if you don’t know this, it’s better to use any of the ready-made drawings that you like.

Measurements must be taken carefully during installation, because this kind of design should not have even the slightest skew.

Step 2: Main frame fixing

Once you know what gate you want to make, you can get to work. Homemade lifting gates are made on the basis of a wooden box, which is assembled into a single frame. Individual bars are twisted with metal corners or plastics using self-tapping screws, nails or bolts.

The resulting frame is fixed in the opening, the lower part should go deep into the floor to a depth of three to five centimeters. It is necessary to fix the frame with metal pins to each wall and to the floor. For reliability, for each linear meter it is necessary to use one pin with a length of thirty centimeters.

Watch video: We make the frame of the canvas

Step 3: Assembling the Canvas

The canvas is assembled very simply: a metal frame is made for it from the corners, and it is sewn up with a sheet of metal on top. To decorate the gate, it is fashionable to trim the sheet with various decorative panels. For insulation and soundproofing, foam, mineral wool and so on are used.

Step 4: We fix springs and mechanisms

It is best to choose springs from steel 65G.

We take the corners and make a support for the guide mechanism. We drill two holes on one of the shelves, through which the structure will be fixed to the supports.

On the other hand, we drill three holes with a diameter of one centimeter to secure the spring bracket. The bracket and spring are connected with an adjustment plate.

Thus, a ring is obtained on the top of the spring, and a thread on the bottom. From below, using the corners, we make a knot of hinges, with a hole of about one centimeter.

It is welded to the frame near the bottom rib and the middle of the hole designed for the lift system lever, at a distance of about twelve centimeters.

Step 5: We make guides, rails

The plate for adjusting the tension is welded onto the end of the lever. We make guides from the corners. They are welded in such a way that the internal size is five centimeters.

The frame is formed using a thick corner. With a canvas of 25-ke, it is best to use the 75th corner, and for the 50th canvas - a corner of a weave.

At the edges of the rails, clamps are attached that will hold the sash in the open and closed position and prevent the rollers from sliding into the rails.

We fix the rail with bolts to the wall, accurately measuring the level, it is best to do this by opening the gate halfway so that the rollers are in the middle of both guides.

Step 6: Final stage

After all installation work is completed, the entire system must be painted so that the metal does not succumb to corrosion and does not deteriorate too quickly. Hard-to-reach places, and places adjacent to walls and other surfaces should be painted even before installation. After that, after letting the structure dry, you can begin to use it.

We make automation

Having made lifting gates with your own hands, you should think about automating them, since it is not always convenient to constantly run and open them. For example, in winter or when it's pouring rain, you don't really want to go out and fiddle with locks and stuff. It is best to do this while sitting in the car or only when leaving the house.

It is very simple to automate swing or folding gates, you only need to purchase a suitable drive and install it according to the instructions that come with the kit.

All drawings must be present there and the drawings will show you clearly how to install. The mechanism for swing gates depends on the method of installation and can be of the following varieties:

  • Installation is carried out on the door leaf.
  • Mounted on rails.
  • The drive is installed on the side racks.

Which one is more suitable for you, you need to decide on your own, as it will depend on the design features, the weight of the gate, your preferences and other factors.

Making sectional doors with your own hands, the drawings of which can be freely found, is not a problem. Sectional doors have become widespread since the beginning of the 80s of the last century and at the moment they are the most common. The reason why garage sectional doors are made is quite simple - the reliability of protecting the garage from breaking, rain and wind.

In addition, sectional garage doors are very ergonomic and do not require much space when opening/closing. The main disadvantage that sectional garage doors have is their high price. To reduce the cost, the design is made by hand. Home-made sectional doors (with your own hands) will not be inferior in quality to factory ones, and making them is quite simple. How to make and repair sectional doors with your own hands will be described below.

At the moment there are 2 technologies for the manufacture of sectional doors:

  1. Lifting sectional doors, which have a leaf made up of several panels (the number depends on the dimensions of the panel). When they are opened, the canvas folds and tightens up, and when closed, it falls vertically down. At the same time, the panels are made of both metal and wood, durable plastic, etc. Inside, they can be insulated with polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam (foam plastic is too voluminous and will not work, like mineral wool). The scheme of operation of such gates is very common and can be found almost everywhere. It is necessary to connect the panels with the help of hinges, however, they are not weakly resistant to breaking. To make sectional doors composite requires a large budget.
  2. The next option is do-it-yourself sectional doors with a swing-out mechanism. There is a clumsy and non-telescopic shield that must be lifted to open. When lifting with a hinged lever mechanism. Unlike the previous design, this option is perfectly protected from hacking. At the same time, they work almost silently (if the mechanisms are regularly lubricated), which cannot be said about the first option, where the guides and rollers make very loud sounds when moving. The most important advantages of this type of construction are economy and ease of manufacture.

If there are severe financial restrictions, then when implementing the second option, you can save significantly. The most significant savings is the manufacture and installation of all the necessary components yourself with your own hands. You can also save a lot of money by trimming some details.

Most of all, savings will come from refusing the door in the gate, reducing the opening of the gate, installing a manual drive instead of a mechanical one (at the same time, opening the gate will become much more difficult). Also, some amount can be saved by not using decors and design panels. The dimensions of sectional doors also affect the cost.

The principle of operation of the lifting-rotary shield

Structurally, such gates have 3 elements in their composition: a box, a lifting sash, an opening mechanism. The frame is made of beams (steel or wood). The frame is the main structure, it is installed in the opening. Next, guides are installed along which the entire structure moves during ascent / descent.

The main difference between this type of gate is that the shield is made of solid material. For this, wooden panels, boards, steel, etc. can be used. The best price / quality ratio is available for a wooden shield. It has a low weight, which does not require massive frame structures and a powerful drive of the lifting mechanism. However, the tree quickly becomes unusable under the influence of external factors. But with a competent approach and processing, the life of a wooden shield can be significantly extended. It is best to upholster it with metal. However, no matter what material is chosen for the shield, it is recommended to insulate it.

Manufacturing and installation

In this section, we will consider the question: how to make a garage door? and how to mount the lifting mechanism. In this case, the option of sectional doors will not be considered. This is due to their high cost, low reliability, and besides, the adjustment of sectional doors (composite) is very difficult. It is important to note that installing sectional doors with your own hands (rotary-lever type) is almost impossible - you need an assistant.

The best and simplest option would be a counterweight mechanism. In this case, the cable is attached to the frame (at the lower corners), passed through a fixed block and goes to the winch with a counterweight. The mass of the counterweight depends on the mass of the gate - with an increase in the mass of the gate, the mass of the counterweight increases. This mechanism is simple and easy to use.

Next, you need to draw up detailed drawings for sectional doors, the dimensions are taken in place. After drawing up the project, materials are purchased. This will require: wooden beam 120x80 and 10x10 (for the box and ceiling, respectively), fittings or metal pins, corners 40x40x4 (for rails) and 35x35x04 (for the frame), channel brackets 80x43x5, springs.

A box is assembled from a vertical beam and a transverse one; the connection of the beam must be made with metal corners. The box should be buried in the floor a couple of centimeters (directly into the screed). Next, the bars are attached to the wall with reinforcement.

The next step is to assemble a frame under the shield, which is immediately sheathed with wood and upholstered with metal.

When the shield is ready, it is approximately worth estimating its mass, starting the installation of sectional doors and proceeding to the manufacture of the lifting mechanism. For this, supports are placed from the corners, a channel is attached to the supports, in addition it should be fixed to the racks. Next, holes are drilled for mounting the spring mechanism (three holes are required on one of the bracket shelves).

The hinge angle for the lower part is made from a corner. To do this, a hole of 8-9 mm is drilled and the corner is welded to the frame so that there is an indent from the lower ribs to the middle of the hole in order to freely install the lever for the lifting mechanism. After that, a plate is welded for mounting the spring tension regulator.

Next, from a pair of corners, rails are mounted for the movement of the gate. The corners must be welded from one edge, while controlling the distance between the top of the corners, which should be 50 mm. The finished rail is welded to the plate with holes, leaving a distance of 80 mm between the bottom (rib) and the center of the rail. A channel is welded on the opposite side of the rail, while the indent should be up to 120-150 mm. The welded channel is bolted to the ceiling beam.

During the installation process, it is necessary to carefully control the level of the guides - it should not deviate from the axis. The last stage - a shield is hung on the lifting mechanism. After that, the bottom seal and the side seal are installed, the gate is adjusted in place.