Waterproofing walls of a frame bath. Methods and features of the insulation of the frame bath. The better to insulate the frame bath: the criteria for choosing a material

The energy efficiency of the wage intended for all-season use directly depends on the properties of materials taken for armament for the insulation of the frame bath. The carrying structures of floors, walls and roofs are frames of boards and bars, they show low thermal conductivity. The main insulating load is placed on the insulation, placed between horizontal, vertical, inclined rod rods.

The insulation layer will not be effective without a hermetic and rigid cutting of the frame, internal and external cladding, high-quality ceiling, floor and roofing. The expected level of thermal insulation can be achieved only if pure and dry material was used capable of maintaining the initial geometric parameters.

As prerequisites for the maximum operational characteristics of the steam, 2 important conditions must be ensured:

1. Protection against wet, hot internal microclimate - there will be a parobarrier;
2. Penetration of pure outer air - through the gap of the windbreaker.

Cells are filled with insulation and covered with a steam insulator, moreover, in the genital lags, the membrane will be on top, in the power frame - from the side of the interior, in the attic ceiling - from the bottom, in the roofing cake on the side of the attic. In the baths that are rarely soaked, it is necessary to provide external vaporizolation. The outer membrane prevents the penetration of wet air flows into the wall through the wall (such a movement is characteristic in cases where the outside is warmer than inside). When the walls are insulated outside, it is necessary to lay windproof - it is placed before facing.

The better to insulate the frame bath: the criteria for choosing a material

In view of the structural features of the structure, the correct thermal insulator becomes the key to the comfort and safe use of the steam. Materials must comply with the following requirements:

• resistance to high moisture and temperature values;
• low thermal conductivity indicators;
• minimal exposure to fungal and grinding damage;
• environmental Safety.

Optimal characteristics have mineral insulation, in particular, basalt wool - it is durable and does not support burning. The recreation area and the pre-tribades are often isolated with the use of sheet polystyrene. To increase the effectiveness of the measures taken, the combination of different solutions is practiced.

Types and characteristics of materials for insulation frame bath

Horizontal surfaces are insulated with the help of rolled variations, plastic mixtures are also relevant here (they have a binding component, filler and the chief), bulk products. To enhance the scope roof it is more convenient to use rolled products.

Wall variations have dimensions of 60x120 cm (these are directly plates that are convenient in installation), the roll packing is used to strengthen the roof and overlap, its width exceeds 1 m, the length can reach 4-8 m. The main volume forms air accumulated between solid inorganic fibers, Products may have a thickness of 5-20 cm. The loose material can be passed onto the foil - so it is protected from the effects of high temperatures and squeezing.

Advantages of mineral wool:

• small own weight;
• the incompetence of rotting (for this, the trim should be hermetic, otherwise organic dust will fall into the insulation);
• vapor permeability;
• low thermal conductivity;
• durability - operational term reaches 50 years.

In order for the products to preserve the form, it is not deformed during transport and installation, the binding components are introduced into it - synthetic resins, bitumen or starch. Such polishing additives, they may contain carcinogens, phenol and formaldehyde, capable of causeing severe diseases.

Mineral plates can be made of stone, glass, slag raw materials. The first category - basalt wool - the most environmentally friendly, shows a low thermal conductivity, but needs a high-quality framework. Shelot and glass gamble cannot be used in the construction of a bath.

Reed plates

These are light non-flammable products with high thermal insulation properties. Depending on the technology of the production and brand of the manufacturer, the plates can reach 15 cm in thickness. The material has a natural origin, in connection with which experts are recommended to be predetermined by it with a solution of iron vapor - it will protect the structure from the reproduction of insects.

Foamed synthetic materials

• loyal cost;
• efficiency and ease of installation;
• immunity to the effects of moisture;
• small own weight;
• low thermal conductivity, which has a beneficial effect on the quality of thermal insulation.

These synthetic varieties are not recommended to be used in those saunas and bath zones, where high temperatures are likely. This method of isolation manifests itself well in strengthening the walls located in the furnace distance, for example, in a washing, rest room, a pre-tribbon.

Mix of sawdust and gypsum

Sawdust and mixed in a ratio of 10: 1, this budget solution exhibits impressive thermal insulation characteristics. Cement can be added to the mixture in the same proportions, it serves as a binding component along with the plaster. Between the particles of carefully dried sawdust persists, which provides low thermal conductivity.

The disadvantage of the solution is the need to ensure perfect insulation from moisture and steam, otherwise rotational processes will quickly spread. Compared to plates and ready-made blocks, laying this option is more troubles.

Ekwata.

It consists of cellulose fibers, anti-epires and antiseptics, protective additives can be added to it, as a result of which the eco-friendly manifests itself in operation: it may be a spacious and short-lived or safe and resistant. As the material is used, it decreases in volumes, and it is a significant minus, since the voids are formed as a result of the shrinkage of raw materials in the frames, heat-shielding properties are lost. We must not forget that the fibers are capable of intensively absorb moisture.

The reasons for spreading are the absence of quiet, environmental friendliness and full noise insulation.

Beep insulation - Ceramzit

Bulk material is optimal to strengthen horizontal framework designs. Keramzit is safe from the point of view of environmental friendliness and lack of hazardous chemical components, it is a heatwise and light insulator. The bath, insulated by clay, is necessary to warm up longer (compared to walls filled with fibrous raw materials), while the steam room will be much slower than cooling.

Pores of the ceramisite have a closed structure, due to which the process of moisture absorption is manifested only slightly. But you need to remember that the wet bulk raw materials will have to dry for a long time. Since the ceramisite is heavier than mineral plates, during construction it is necessary to lay a more powerful foundation and a strong framework.

How to insulate a skeleton bath with your own hands: the right job

To achieve the expected effect and creating conditions for energy saving, a thorough-skinning of vertical and horizontal surfaces is organized - phased from the inside and outside.

Floor

Most often, the base for the frame bath is a columnar or pile foundation, the assembly starts with the laying of the lag. Moisture-resistant OSPs are recorded to the lower surface (approximately chipboard). Here you need to reveal the optimal zones to introduce functional holes, such as sewage, extract.

• laying windproof and waterproofing in the form of rubberoid, special polyethylene and other modern materials, joints are sealed with the use of scotch;
• thermal insulation is placed - the space between the lags is filled with slaughter or bulk raw materials;
• the insulation layer is protected by an OSP;
• the second layer is stacked on top, it is possible to use the same material or take a dense foam, extruded polystyrene foam in the form of plates;
• in zones, distinguished by high humidity, for example, in a washing and steam room, you need to equip two layers of isolation.

Here the optimal version of the first floor will be the tile, in dry rooms - a tipped board. If you wish, you can implement the heating system to be comfortable walking barefoot.

Walls

The frame bath is organized after assembling the basic beam design. Experts emphasize that at this stage the best assistant is basalt plates placed in space between blocks. To minimize the likelihood of cream formation, it is better to use rolled materials in tandem with dense mats. It is important to accurately comply with the technology of installation so that the material lies as close as possible: the gaps and defects are potential sources of heat loss.

Further, vapor insulation material is fixed - parchment, polyethylene film, foil. Pergamine attracts ecology and loyal cost, but the film will be cheaper. Folgized PPE not only protects the insulation from moisture penetration, but also saves on heating, as it returns radiant energy.

The final stage becomes the finish of the inner walls: between vapor insulation and facing, it is necessary to set the ventilation gap to 2 cm. Optimal horizontal fixation of the lining - in this case it will be easier to replace the lower rows that are more in contact with water and quickly become unfit.

In a special attention, the zone needs around the furnace: it should be fermented with materials with high thermal resistance - basalt tissue, isolon and their analogues. The flame retardant is installed either on top of the decorative lining, or directly on vapor barrier. Convenient and reliable solution - a full-fledged brick screen with refractory properties.

Wall cake from the outside is formed from waterproofing materials and decorative facade trim. Here, the decoration performs the functions of additional heat protection and enhances the battery strength.

Ceiling

To strengthen the ceiling structures it is customary to use mineral wool slabs and rolls, they are mounted almost as well as in the case of walls. Materials are located in the following sequence:

• waterproofing layer;
• insulation;
• vapor insulation membrane;
• decorative cladding.

An alternative method of thermal insulation is organized using a sieve mixture: it is laid in the ceiling system from the attic. As a result, highly efficient and durable isolation without cracks and flaws is formed, while minimal financial investments will be required. Usually all manipulations aimed at heat rescue are carried out systematically during the construction of the bath.

Outdoor framework of frame structure

The thermal insulation of the bath outside helps to minimize the heat loss: the protective layer on the facade contributes to ensuring the full protection of the frame structure from the impact of wind and atmospheric precipitation. The easiest option will be the use of foam sheets - they are fixed to special steady glue, in this case you can use any finish finish. The only condition is the choice of a non-combustible form of foam.

Usually, in such a steam, there are no thermal insulation of door and window openings: it is only necessary to fit the frame to bindings to bindings, take the joints and gaps, pays special attention to the zone around the chimney. If the window contains windows, it is desirable to purchase double, triple structures based on energy-saving glasses.

The framework of construction came to Russia from the West. The conceptual difference between the approach to the construction of buildings for a long time did not allow technology to conquer strong positions, and was considered as quick-scale temporary housing and auxiliary buildings.

Nevertheless, over time, the construction began to turn more attention to the framework technique. Previously built houses showed reliability and durability. The speed of construction, low demanding quality due to low weight, good heat resistant, the possibility of construction made this method of construction in demand and widely known. The data contributes to the popularity of houses and baths.

The bath, built on frame technology, is not inferior in its qualities more expensive buildings (for comparison, comparing frame and bar bath is devoted, as well as pro), despite the fact that in addition to saving on the construction of the bath itself, a solid gain is obtained. In practice, it is clear that the largest calculations cause the roof of the bath, it is necessary to ensure that it does not get too heavy. Light walls are unsuitable for heavy loads, and the weight of the roof must correspond to the capabilities of the walls.

Device walls frame bath

The wall of the frame bath is a wooden frame, the empties of which are filled with insulation, lined with sheet materials or clapboard. Such a design perfectly stores heat, does not require heating costs, easily repaired, and local and dot repair is allowed. It is important not to confuse frame and, these are two different construction technologies.

A virtually absolute absence of a shrinkage should also be attributed to the advantages, which allows the final finish immediately during construction. Requirements for the composition of the walls - moisture resistance and the lack of isolating toxic substances when heated.

Tip! It should also be carefully traced for fire safety, as the traditional source of heat in the bath is a furnace, an element risky in itself. Therefore, it is desirable when applying non-combustible and non-toxic materials.

Frame Bath Wall Pie

The multilayer design of walls with insulation, vaporizolation or, as an option, a multifunctional membrane, received the name "Pie" among specialists. The device of such a cake is the main cause of the abundance of the merits and the beneficial properties of frame walls.

The cake usually includes:

1. Bar 150 to 50. The edged board is often used.
2. Mineral insulation, located in the intervals between wooden parts. The most preferred option is mineral wool slabs.
3. Oriented chipboard (OSP), the thickness must be at least 15 mm.
4. Horizontal doom.
5. Layer for horizontal doom.
6. Layer of waterproofing (or multifunction membrane).
7. Vertical doom.
8. Outdoor decoration.
9. Fariating material.
10. Interior decoration. Most often it is the lining.

Photo

Option 1

Option 2 (easier)

Option 3 (the easiest)

Such a kit allows you to store heat, does not wet, protected from atmospheric influences from the outside and from the absorption of aquatic vapor from the inside. The effectiveness of the cake is checked multiple times and doubt in its reliability does not cause.

Solar order

The process of insulation begins after building a frame of wood, then the cake of the wall of the frame bath is created. The first step is to fill the voids between the frameworks of the frame of the frame insulation. The material is cut exactly in size and is installed in the gaps of the veil.

Important! It is necessary to carefully customize pieces of insulation. All the gaps and emptiness should be additionally filling out by mounting foam to avoid the formation of cold bridges.

Then, on the inside, the layer of vaporizolation is attached foil inside. Such a location contributes to the rapid warming of the inner casing, due to which the condensate is not formed and the wall inside will not mock. The inner cover is installed on the cut, attached to the frame brushes, due to which the gap is ensured between the inner clap and foil.

From the outer side, the layer of membrane or windproof is stacked. A doomer is installed on top of it, which is mounted outside the outer covering. Between the outer cover and insulation at the expense of the root aerial intervalcontributing to and drying condensate.

Protection of thermal insulation from moisture

As already mentioned, the protection against moisture is a layer of vapor barrier, fused from the inside of the wall. As an insulator, an ordinary aluminum foil is used, or foil on kraft paper, which is somewhat easier when mounting. The strips of the vapor polypoletor (or membrane) relies on with each other aluminum tape to obtain a hermetic cutoff. Outside, a similar film of wind insulation is used, to protect against moisture from the outside.

The thickness of the walls of the frame bath

The main value is the width of the carcass boards. Recommended - 150 mm. I add to this thickness of two layers of doom, the inner lining of the clapboard and the outer cladding we obtain the total thickness of the wall, about 250 - 270 mm. The dimensions are conditional, in each case, the choice of builder may fall on materials of other thicknesses. The main condition remains compliance with the principle of the work of the cake, providing insulation and excluding the effects of condensation.

Prompt: There are opinions that enough of the 10 centimeters of the insulation, in which case, the above can be reduced by 5 cm.

Wall insulation frame bath

Protection of the ceiling passage of chimney from heat

The flue through the ceiling overlap must be equipped with a passage node. Even when used on the chimney of a special sandwich pipe no contact with wooden parts is not allowed.

There are ready-made passages of passage, which are a sheet of metal with a hole for the pipe and its surrounding box. The ceiling cuts the square hole in the size of the box plus a layer of the insulator.

The underfloor assembly, lined with a layer of the insulator, is inserted into the hole, which is also pre-crushed throughout the perimeter with an insulator, and is attached to screws. The chimney, wrapped by asbestos cord, is passed through the hole and output. The box of the passage node from above can be covered with clay.

Construction of baths for framework technology - economical, efficient and rapid solution to the issue. The result will be a full-featured bath, the heating time of which is almost two times less than the usual wooden, and the cost of fuel is lower. Such properties make the technology of frame construction in the most profitable and preferred. It is given more than enough information about the device of the walls of a frame bath. Now the case is yours and a bath from the boards and insulation will be able to please you and your households.

Where to order

The demand for frame baths provides a wide selection of offers from companies. Some enterprises.

In contact with

Surely on the territory of your country area or country house there is a bathhouse, the construction technology of which directly depends on the budget of its owner. As many people already know, you can decently save, choosing a frame-panel bath as a project, because thanks to the lightweight foundation, it is possible to reduce construction costs without any problems.

But how to insulate a frame bath? Is it possible to save at this stage of work and at the same time not to increase the level of heat loss? These questions you will find the answer in this article.

Thermal insulation made in all rules of construction

Types of insulation for framework structures

Warm the bath can even independently

So, before moving on to the question - than to warm the bath, we will try to understand the types of insulation for the bath and consider all their positive and negative qualities. And what is the most likely - you will certainly interest the types of insulation, which are used for interior decoration in the steam room and the pre-tribades.

• Well dried wood sawdust, which are mixed with cement or plaster in a ratio of 10: 1 - according to experts, this thermal insulator is one of the most reliable and inexpensive materials,
• Reed slabs whose thickness is 15 cm is a light and non-combustible material that has unique characteristics. What is noteworthy, before laying, the slabs should be treated with iron sulfate solution,
• Mineral wool plates are polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, foam and other synthetic materials that are able to keep constant heat inside the room.

Attention! Material that is used for the inner and external wall sheat has practically no effect on thermal insulation characteristics. The case is only in the aesthetic considerations of the builder or designer.

Heat insulation foam

So, answering the question - the better to warm the bath, let's start, perhaps, from foam. In order to understand what its distinctive features, let's consider all the main advantages and disadvantages of this material.

Let's start with the advantages:

• Lightweight material
• The possibility of using the adhesive method of installation,
• Perfectly transfers the impact of moisture,
• The double layer of foam placed in two layers with a displacement and an outside of a facing material outside will become excellent protection against purge.

Attention! If we talk about disadvantages, the foam is not resistant to mechanical damage, fuel, and also requires preliminary preparation of the working surface before assembly.

Heat insulation Bath Mineral Wat

Bath insulation diagram from ceramzite concrete blocks

Answering the question - the better to insulate the bath, our attention is unwittingly switches to mineral wool, which has long been popular with builders.

Consider its advantages:

• Fire-resistant
• Perfectly tolerate moisture and does not rot,
• Is not only heat and noise insulating material,
• It is supplied both in the stoves and in rolls, which in turn allows you to integrate these views at a double layer layer.

Attention! The disadvantages of mineral wool include the need to use eye protection tools and lungs (respirator and safety glasses). Also, the minuses include high material consumption, as the insulation laying (using technology) in two layers is required.

We protect thermal insulation from steam

Parosolation - another step to a warm and reliable bath

If you decide to insulate the bath with your own hands, before proceeding to the insulation trim, it is necessary to lay the vapor insulation materials that protect the insulation itself from the harmful effects of hot steam and warm air.

Excellent vaporizolation provide the following materials:

• Simple synthetic film - the price of material is available to everyone and therefore this method of vapor barrier is the most budget. Despite the low cost, the film will ensure the tightness of the large surface without junctions,
• Pergamine is another cheap insulator, which is absolutely harmless material. There is a flaw - significantly inferior to the same film in strength,
• Aluminum foil - This material not only protects the insulation from steam, but also the heat outgoing from the steam reflects back to the room,
• Ruberoid - its use is undesirable, although not prohibiting. Its significant disadvantage is an unpleasant smell in the room when heated.

Attention! With the arrangement of vapor barrier, specialists are recommended to combine materials. An excellent combination is aluminum foil and parchment.

Installation work - the order of

If everything is done correctly, thermal insulation will last not one dozen years

So, if we talk about the construction of a frame bath in general (from bricks or from ceramzite-concrete blocks, so far we will miss), it starts with the device and fill the foundation. And already at this stage should be worried about the heat insulation of the floors.

As for the foundation itself, it should be wanted by slag or clay crumb. Next, on top of the "pillows" laid lags and beams.

The insulation should be disposed between lags. Most often, builders as a heater choose mats from mineral wool (see also the article "Basalt wool for baths - characteristics and features of application").

They ate talk about the walls, their insulation can be performed simultaneously with installation. The layers of insulating material and vapor barrier film are located inside the bath frame. The external trim can be installed immediately so that the thermal insulation is held inside the design.

In the event that you make a bet on the double layer of the insulation, then you almost completely eliminate the possibility of heat loss. Moreover, the first layer can be put out of foam or mineral wool (plates), and the second is from any rolled type of insulation.

Attention! There is no air gaps between thermal insulation layers.

Do not forget about windproof and waterproofing - this stage of work is performed immediately after the warming of the frame-shield design.

Note! All installation work can be guided both simultaneously throughout the perimeter, and in parts, breaking the square of the bath to a separate section. In the latter case, you should produce high-quality sealing of seams and all joints.

Wall insulated polystyrene plates

Well, now you know not only than and how to insulate the bath from the inside, but also what to insulate the pre-banker. Let's hope that this article will really have to come to you and will help in your work on insulation.

What to insulate the bath yourself - modern methods of thermal insulation
What to insulate the bath and the pre-banker is better outside: frame, from clay-concrete blocks, video instructions for installation with their own hands, photo and price

Bath technology always depends on the wishes of the customer and its financial capabilities. You can, for example, to safely save on the foundation, building a frame building. After all, due to the lightweight design, it is not necessary to spend money on an expensive high strength basis.

But it is not necessary to save on the insulation of this structure, because from properly organized conservation of heat indoors, not only the quality of the functioning of the bath, but also its durability.

Before you warm the frame bath with your own hands, you need to consult with specialists: they will help to choose the best isolator and the optimal method of insulation. And in order to have at least a minimum idea that it will be necessary to do and which there are insulators, pay for some time to study the topic.

Varieties of thermal insulation for frame bath

Since the building will be operated in elevated temperature conditions, then when choosing an insulator, it is necessary to take into account its fire resistance. The issue of toxicity is also very important, because many building materials lose their properties or begin to allocate harmful toxins, as soon as the ambient temperature becomes higher than a certain framework. This is especially important to consider when choosing a thermal insulator for the internal decoration of the sauna.

Today, in the list of popular materials for thermal insulation, steam rooms are listed:

• reed plates (fifteen-salted thickness thickness) - a great variant of a completely non-combustible and lightweight heat insulator (before mounting the plates are processed with iron-based solution),
• a mixture of wood sawdust of a good degree of drying and plaster (as an option, cement) - the ratio of ingredients ten to one,
• synthetic insulation (foam and varieties such as polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam).

Useful tip! Selecting how to warm the frame bath, you can not worry about such a thorough selection of materials for the walls of the walls. After all, the latter play only aesthetic role.

Foam as optimal insulation

To understand how to insulate a frame bath in your particular case, you need to know about the benefits of each of the insulation. The polystyrene foam has such advantages as:

• the ability to mount building material with glue,
• lightness
• moisture resistance
• thermal conductivity is minimal.

Useful tip! To exclude the blowing of the walls, the plates of foam placed in two layers (while the docking seams should be shocked).

The material also has shortcomings. The main ones are fragility and flammability. In addition, for high-quality thermal insulation, it is necessary to prepare the surfaces to an ideally even state.

Mineral wool in the warca steaming insulation

Considering the advantages of minvati in the heat insulation process, it is necessary to note such aspects as:

• high level of resistance to rotting,
• versatility (thermal insulator has further insulating properties),
• high degree of fire safety,
• convenience of mounting (the possibility of choosing products in two packaging forms - rolls and stoves).

But before you decide to warm the skeleton bath of Minvata, you need to know its negative qualities.
If we talk about disadvantages - this is an increased danger when working with insulation. Nevertheless, this minus is easily eliminated by using respiratory masks and overalls. Another feature of Minvati is the need for a two-layer insulation method, which means additional waste.

Steam barrier insulation: what you need to know

Filling the heat-insulating layer of cells of the design of this type, you need to take care of steam insulation of the insulation sheets. After all, the operation of the bath structure is conjugate with the harmful effects of warm air and hot vapors.

Considering steam insulators of a high degree of efficiency, you need to highlight the following:

• aluminum foil having the properties of the heat transferser
• economically advantageous synthetic film that allows you to perfectly seal the surfaces without junctions,
• harmless parchment (also the budget option, but the film is stronger),
• less popular because of the reference temperatures from high temperatures.

Useful tip! The perfect option is a combination of two types of vaporizolator. Most often it is pergamine with foil.

Stages of thermal insulation

To insulate the frame bath as efficiently as possible, it is necessary to start it to do this at the stage of laying the foundation. To this end, the base of the house is covered with a slag or a crumb of clay and covered by lags or beams. After that, it is necessary to disseminate the thermal insulation sheets between lags.

Wall pair of this type of construction is insulated at the time of their construction. For this inside the frame, the layers of thermal insulators protected from steam are mounted. To keep them inside the wall, at this stage there is an external lining.

The outer side of the insulated layer is protected by waterproofing and windproof. The next stage is facing.

Useful tip! If you decide to warm the frame bath with your own hands, be sure to enlist the support of specialists. After all, it is much better to gradually correct the random errors than to correct them upon completion of the process.

What insulation is better for a frame bath
How to insulate a frame bath - recommendations for choosing heat-insulating material and stages of work on the insulation of the bath. Photo, video

Framework structures require insulation. Especially important this question becomes, if it comes to a skeleton bath.

Under the influence of moisture and high temperatures, frame structures can quickly come into disrepair. That is why it is necessary to approach the insulation and vaporizolation of such a structure with maximum responsibility. Quality insulation of a frame bath is a pledge of her comfort, safety and economy.

We choose insulating material

The choice of the right heat shielding material is one of the important stages. Click on the photo to enlarge.

When choosing a heater for a frame bath, it is necessary to pay attention not only to the thermal insulation properties of the material, but also on its toxicity, and resistance to fire.

Toxic and combustible insulation cannot be used when the bath is internal finishing.

From the diversity of insulation presented for today, the following options will be suitable for the skeleton bath:

1. Reed slabs - light, non-combustible, have excellent thermal insulation characteristics. In the thickness reach up to 15 cm, the length can vary, depending on the manufacturer. Before laying, it is recommended to impregnate such a plate with a solution of iron mood.
2. A mixture of wood sawdust and gypsum - in the ratio of 10: 1 such a mixture will become highly budget and at the same time reliable insulation. It is possible to use cement instead of plaster in the same proportions. It is important that the sawdusts for the mixture be well dried.
3. Plates of synthetic materials - foam plastic, polystyolster, polyurethane foam and the like insulation. They are cheap enough, easy to install and process, can be used in any room.

The material for the walls of the walls will not have a special influence on the insulation of the frame bath. It is chosen more on the basis of individual preferences. Most often, cladding or chipboard is used for the plating.

Vaporizolation and insulation

Thinking about how to insulate a frame bath, do not forget also about vaporizolation. It will help protect the walls from the effects of high temperatures and humidity. As materials for vaporizolation use:

Synthetic film. It is the easiest and most cheap method of vapor barrier. The film has one hundred percent tightness, easy to install and makes it possible to cover the surface of a large area without jams.

Parchment is cheap, absolutely harmless material. However, it is not popular because of its low strength.

Aluminum foil - it, among other things, creates the effect of the thermos, reflecting the heat inside the premises.

Ruberoid is popular due to low prices and good thermal insulation properties. However, this material is inconvenient when installing due to its weight. In addition, when heated, the runneroid makes an unpleasant chemical smell.

The optimal variant for the frame bath will be the vapor insulation device using a combination of several materials, such as foil and pergamine.

The quality of insulation and the paosolation of the frame bath affects the accuracy of the installation of insulating materials. If non-grid joints remain between the strips of vapor insulation, the moisture will fall into the insulation and on the walls, which will provoke the rotation process.

Under the influence of moisture and high temperatures, frame structures can quickly come into disrepair.

Before installing the inner layer of the walls of the walls, it is necessary to carefully insulate all the seams and joints. To do this, it is better to use the mounting foam, for small gaps - silicone sealant.

Steam barrier in the frame bath is mounted not only on the walls, but also on the floor and ceiling. It is important because hot steam will rise up and settle on the ceiling.

It is also important to equip good ventilation in the bath and do not forget to regularly air her room after use.

Vaporizolation not only protects the walls from moisture, but also makes it impossible through air through them, so the device of additional ventilation is necessary.

How to insulate a frame bath - installation order

The construction of the frame bath begins with the foundation. The heat insulation of the floor is done already at this stage. The foundation is sprinkled with a clay crumb or slag, on top of laid beams and lags, between which the insulation layer is mounted.

Most often, mineral mats are used for floor insulation, but you can choose any other insulation, at your discretion.

The thermal insulation of the frame bath walls is made directly during their installation, after installing the frame. The layers of insulation and vapor insulation materials are located inside the wall, to hold them on the spot there will be an external sheathing.

You can warm the frame bath separately in each section or immediately over the entire surface of the wall. It does not matter much. The main thing when installing the sections - carefully isolate all the seams and joints.

How to fit the insulation

Heaters are placed in two layers. The best option will be when the first layer is mounted from the material in the form of plates, and the second is from the material of the roll type.

Materials for vapor barriating are strengthened on the walls on the side of the room, between the layer of the insulation and the layer of external sheat.

Installation of layers should be carried out in such a way as to prevent the air layer between them. The densely layers will lay down to each other, the higher their effectiveness. When installing, pay attention to the features of the materials.

For many plates of synthetic insulation, they have the meaning of which side to the inner surface of the room they are laid. Information about this is usually indicated on the packaging of the insulation. Be sure to specify this question when buying.

What to do with a bath stove

One best refractory screens is a thermal stillar. Click on the photo to enlarge.

In this area of \u200b\u200bthe room it is possible to use asbestos asbestos, they are resistant to ignitions.

The thickness of the insulation on the walls is chosen depending on the climatic conditions of your region and the order of use of the bath.

As a rule, frame baths usually put on dachas, that is, their use in the winter is not expected.

In order to provide a comfortable temperature in the bath, during the period of use from May to September, there will be a layer of insulation on the walls of 5 cm.

If the bath provides a pair compartment, in it layer of the insulation must be thicker than in the rest of the rooms.

Roof bath

After the warming of the walls, the roof of the bath is erected, the ceiling and its heat and vaporizolation occurs. In the roof isolation there should be four layers:

1. External sheath.
2. Layer of vapor insulation material.
3. Layer of heat-insulating material.
4. Boardwalk.

The thickness of the insulation for the ceiling must be greater than for the walls. Usually a layer of insulation on the ceiling is 10-15 centimeters.

The insulation of the bathhouse does not include thermal insulation of windows and doors. This is a separate type of work, a separate task that is solved in a special way.

In general, with properly mounted heat and vapor barrier, the skeleton bath will not give way to a log in its characteristics and ease of operation. It will quickly warm up, reliably keep warm and serve you for many years.

Frame Bath Warming Technology
Warming of a frame bath: selection of heat-shielding materials, carrying out vapor barrier, installation of insulation, oven and roof.

Technology insulation walls

Re-reading the mass of the information and consulted with familiar builders, I decided to stay in the following version of the insulation "Cake":

• 1 layer - insulation
• 2 layer - foil for vaporizolation
• 3 layer - lining for trim

Selection and fastening of the insulation layer

As a warming material, I immediately shallow foam and glass gambled, because I am not fully confident in their safety. When heated, they highlight volatile substances and turn their own bath in an analogue of the gas chamber is unlikely to want anyone. I looked at several other options and stopped on a stone cotton (basalt car) 60 mm thick. It is recommended to use for pairs, in addition she is not a fuel, so that the most thing!

To secure the insulation, I used wooden bars of 80x80 mm, which screwed up to the walls vertically with a step of 60 cm. Stone wool plates easily fit between them. They do not fall out of the crate, as the distance between the bars is slightly smaller than the standard width of the insulation.

Vapor insulation layer

The role of the vapor insulation layer in the insulation of the foil plays a foil (ordinary aluminum or on kraft paper). It is necessary to protect the insulation and the inner surface of the wall of the bath from moisture. The buyers know perfectly well that when the cold bath is intimidated on the walls, condensate is always formed. If he falls on the insulation, then the fungus, an unpleasant smell and other "charms" of the raw room are provided to you.

Naturally, the insulation, with this situation, will live for long and eventually rotates. And along with him, the walls of the frame will be spoiled, which is absolutely not enough. If you put a foil as a vapor insulating layer, then the formed condensate will flush down it, and the insulation will not fall on the insulation.

Additional fixation of foil rails will provide a more dense adjacent to the insulation

The thicker it will be a foil, the better it will cope with their functions, so I advise you to use a thickness of 80-100 μm thick. Foil is attached to the staples brushes. For additional fixation of the foil, I also used thin wooden slats that fastened on the sides of the bars.

The greatest complexity in the styling of the foil is to create a solid vapor insulation layer without open joints. Therefore, all the joints are carefully sampled by a special tape for foil, the usual tape is not suitable for this.

Wall sheathing clapboard

It is important to note that the ventilation gap of 1-2 cm should be left between the foil and the lining. Why? Everything is very simple: it will allow condensate that accumulated on the foil, knead, and not soak into the lining. This ventilation is ensured by the width of the bars, between which the insulation was laid and which will continue to serve for fixing the lining.

The gap of 1-2 cm will allow condensate to dry in the period between the battery protests

In steam lining, I fixed horizontally, as this position allows water falling onto the walls, flush down, without getting into the joints. There is one more advantage of horizontal stacking: if over time the bottom boards will rotate (rotting always begins to bottom, as there is a higher humidity and below the temperature), then they can be easily replaced. With a vertical location of the lining, this number will not pass and replacing all the trim.

The lining is attached to vertical bars using self-tapping screws. There should be no modern impregnation and coatings with lining, otherwise you will have to breathe chemical evaporation. I heard that it was not bad to cry with a hot-natural olifa lining, allegedly creates a water-repellent film inside a tree, but the pores themselves do not seal. However, in any case, my personally, my opinion remains such that it is not necessary to cover the walls of the steam room - the tree in the bath should be worst, and then sink well and then no rotting is scary.

Features of ceiling insulation

The insulation of the ceiling of the bath is performed precisely by the same principle as the insulation of the walls. The only difference is that the insulation layer for the ceiling must be 2 times thicker. This is due to the fact that the main part of the heat during the damning of the bath always rises up and goes through the ceiling. If you pay special attention to the insulation of the ceiling, then this heat is not going anywhere, respectively, the bath is heated stronger in a shorter period of time.

On the ceiling it is necessary to lay insulation in two layers

After the foil layer, the ceiling is trimmed with wooden clapboard

That's all the wisdom of insulation baths. Of course, I do not think that this option is the truth in the last instance, you may come up with a more advanced warming design of the walls and the ceiling of the bath. However, the fact that I suggest well works on my site for more than a year!

Vaporizolation and insulation of walls and ceiling frame bath bathties
Personal experience of insulation and vapor barrier skeleton baths using basalt wool and foil. Useful tips and the description of the difficulties that will have to face.

Any frame design is needed insulation, this is especially true of builds such as the bath. The steamer in the traditional Russian style should last a long time to maintain air temperature within 60-90 ° C. To make it possible, it is necessary to produce.

The main advantages of thermal insulation

The insulated frame sauna allows to significantly save on its heating. Therefore, the means spent on insulation and vapor barrier, over time pay off. The heat-insulated sauna heats up to the desired temperature and cools slower, it's better to "hold" pairs.

The gentle temperature allows you to significantly increase the service life of the Kamenka furnace. Wooden structures are less susceptible to rotting. There is no doubt about the feasibility of insulation, it remains to choose the right to choose the material and carry out work on the relevant technology. To do this, you can hire specialists or do everything with your own hands.

Selection of insulating material

The result depends on the proper selection of heat shielding material. The modern industry offers a large selection of insulation options for frame structures. It is not fundamentally how to warm the frame walls - the choice depends on the cost and availability of materials in a particular area.

The main thing is that the material is light, since the frame walls are not intended for large loads. The insulation for the bath must have not only good thermal insulation properties, but also resistant to fire, minimal toxicity.

A light frame bath can be insulated in various ways. Of the most accessible options, the following insulation methods can be distinguished:

• reed plates;
• mixture of plaster and wood sawdust;
• plates from synthetic materials.

Ramyshess

Reed slabs - light non-combustible material with high thermal insulation characteristics. Depending on the manufacturer, the thickness of the rook blocks can reach 15 cm. Since it is natural material, then before installation, it is recommended to impregnate the plates with a solution of iron mossets from insects.

Gypsum and sawdust

A mixture of wood sawdust and gypsum in a ratio of 10: 1 is the most budget option for frame baths and has excellent thermal insulation properties. Such a mixture can be prepared with the addition of cement in a similar proportion. Cement and gypsum plays the role of a binder, and thoroughly dried sawdust and air between them make up a layer with low thermal conductivity.

Plates based on polymers (polystyrene foam, foam, polyurethane foam, etc.) are characterized by simplicity of use and low cost, and therefore enjoy the greatest popularity. If there is a question, the better and easier to insulate the bath, then it is worth choosing a foam.

Floor

The steps of the floor insulation of the frame bath is incredibly important. First you need to warm the underground space - to make it easily with your own hands. It is enough to fall asleep with its clayjit or a furnace slag.

Parts of the bath not in contact with water

In the rooms of the baths that are not intended for washing (pre-banner, bathroom, steam room, lounge, etc.) is the easiest to arrange solid floors that are perfectly kept warm and easy to manufacture. For this purpose, lags and draft floor are stacked on the floor, the boards of which are necessarily impregnated with an antiseptic.

After that, the floor lay a layer of insulation (mineral or basalt cotton wool, foam), which is delayed with a waterproofing film. A pinched board or tile is stacked as the first floor.

Waterproofing

In the wash room, the floor device is more difficult, since it must be carefullyroidered from moisture. Therefore, on a layer of insulation, it is necessary to lay a double layer of waterproofing material. After that, it is required to make a concrete screed with a thickness of at least 5 cm, otherwise it breaks under its own weight. For strength, the screed reinforce the grid. You can lay a tile as the finish layer.

Walls

The technology of insulation of walls in the frame bath is quite simple. To do this, it is necessary to attach a doomlet from wooden or metal guides. Sheets of foam or any other insulation are inserted into the idres. The thermal insulation material is necessarily covered with a layer of waterproofing, which is then sewn with clapboard, siding or other material.

In the waterproofing layer there should be no damage or holes. The connection of the sheets is made by the venge, the joints of the joints must be flown by thin straps. If polyethylene is used as waterproofing, then it can be welded.

In the process of installation between the insulation and facing, it is necessary to provide an unintent ventilation space with a thickness of 1.5-3 cm.

Roof and other elements

At the end of the insulation of the walls begins the construction of the roof of the bath. Installation of the ceiling, its subsequent heat and vaporizolation will allow you to prevent heat loss through the roof. To do this, you need to mount four layers of roof insulation:

• external sheath;
• vapor insulation material;
• thermal insulation material;
• floiled from the board.

Since warm air is raised at the expense of convection, the thickness of the ceiling thermal insulation layer should be thicker than for walls. It must reach 10-15 cm.

Finishing stage

The insulation of the frame bath outside allows to reduce heat loss even more. The layer of heat-insulating material on the facade of the building will protect the frame walls of the bath from atmospheric precipitation.

For simplicity of outdoor insulation, it is also possible to use foam sheets. They are just glued to the wall. As an finishing finish, you can use any facing. The main thing to choose the non-combustible type of foam.

The thermal insulation of windows and doors in the frame bath is not provided. It is enough that the window and door frames will be well driven to curls, cracks and joints, especially around the perimeter of the chimney, must be carefully sealed. For windows, it is better to use double or triple double glazing with energy-saving glass.

You can additionally insulate the doors and windows, but also with the insulation version described above, the frame bath does not yield to the log cabin in its operational properties. The frame structure with competently made heat and vaporizolation will be perfectly saved heat.

Mineral wool laying scheme.

Now consider the materials that are great for the outdoor insulation of baths. These include products created on the basis of 100% natural fibers: wool felt, moss, hemp hemp, linen panel. Such materials for cacopa are characterized by environmental friendliness, they are easily compacted during the work, provide excellent air exchange.

Quite often, red moss is used for log cabins, which is not susceptible to rotting. As a rule, the length of its fibers is 15-30 cm, which is very convenient. Applied Moss called Cukushkin Flax, sphagnum. All these materials are available and cheap: a forty-kilogram bag of such a construction moss will cost only three hundred rubles.

Popular for the insulation of the bath and jute, which is used in the insulation of the crowns, with the capros of the whole structure. Jute felt is suitable for log cabins, felt of a mixture of flax and jute, flanutin. These materials are elastic dense strips that easily fit and completely overlap the seams between the logs.

Their cost is also small: the jute canvas with a length of up to 20 meters costs about 100 rubles, the flank roll will cost 520-750 rubles.

Important! The process of insulation (cacopate) is made at the stage of assembling a wooden log cabin, the grooves and gaps are insulated after the construction work on the roof. Such a process is carried out at least twice, while the second time - a year after the construction of the bath

Scheme of layers when insulation of a wooden bath.

For external insulation of brick and concrete buildings, mineral insulation are used, which are soft plates or mineral wool mats.

Such stoves have flexible and thin fibers from mineral melts in their structure. All wool is divided into stone and slag, such a classification depends on the material of the manufacture.

The main advantages of mineral insulation are:

• nonseasing;
• environmental friendliness;
• the material does not absorb moisture, not subject to rotting;
• has a low cost (500-1000 rubles per pack).

In addition to mineral wool, applied glass gambler, which is characterized by excellent thermal insulation properties, strength, elasticity.

Among the products based on plastics, which are suitable for the outer insulation of baths, can be distinguished by foam and cellular (foam), porous, cellular (celloplasts). Most often used polystyrene foam, which is distinguished by strength, density, low thermal conductivity.

From modern materials for insulation, the bath can be noted and foam-glass, which, despite the fairly high cost (up to ten thousand rubles), is one of the best materials. This insulation absorbs sounds, easily processed, non-combustible, water vehicles, is very durable and durable.

Installation of insulation with your own hands

You can warm the frame bath in two ways:

1. Classic cake. When the insulation is paving between outdoor boards and interior decoration.
2. Additional. Usually performed from the facade.

Classic insulation

Classic frame of insulation of the frame bath is performed from the inside of the structure.

Classic insulation consists of a cake: vapor barrier, insulation, vaporizolation, interior decoration.

Paro - waterproofing is performed from the inside the bath after the boards or panels from sawdust are fixed from the outside. Variazolation is placed right on them and a frame timber. Mounting material must be cleaned by 10-15 cm. The joints are sickling with scotch. Materials can be attached directly to the tree with a construction staple.

The insulation is placed in the formed cells. Standard heater thickness 50 mm and 100 mm. If the bath will be used all year round, then 100 mm is taken and stacked in two layers. This layer will be enough for the steam room to keep warm in winter temperatures up to -35 ° C. For the southern regions, one layer is sufficient 100 mm.

The bath used only in the summer seasons does not require solid insulation, therefore it is enough to lay 1-2 layers of 50 mm.

When mounting the joints should be as small as possible, and in places where the insulation does not fit the protection with the help of a mounting foam. The second layer of plates is placed on the first so that the tops of the upper do not coincide with the lower. Fasten the insulation can be special fungal screws. They have a wide hat that will securely attach material to the wall. If foam plastic is selected as insulation, then it can be glued with conventional tile glue to the wall.

The next layer again stacked vaporizolation. Many are missing this layer, but it is necessary when using a material that absorbs water, for example is an eco.

A foil membrane material is used as waterproofing. It is placed in foil to the steam, the joints are stuck with foil scotch. Waterproofing such material will play not only the protective function from moisture, but also help keep heat into the wage, reflecting it.

Outdoor framework of frame structure

Polyfoam to the facade of the baths are fixed with the help of adhesive composition.

Outdoor insulation is optional. For a frame bath, it is better to make a ventilated facade, so condensate will not accumulate under the trim of the facade and the walls will serve longer. Usually the insulation of the facade of the bath is performed by foam.

Initially, the walls are made of metallic profiles or 40x40 mm beams. Before installation, the timber is covered with an antiseptic or liquid glass that penetrates deep into the tree and protects it from various detrimental effects.

The shadow step depends on the width of the insulation sheet. If the foam has a width of 60 cm, then the step should correspond to it. Bashed to the walls of the foam can be special screws or glue. The material is lightweight and glued it alone.

If the insulation of the facade is additional, then you do not need to take too thick insulation. Mounting vaporizolation on the foam is not necessary, it, so it will push the water, and the air does not penetrate the material. The crate is fixed by a counter-crate and mount the finish, such as siding or timing panels.

Before insulation, the external framework of the frame and the design itself is covered with antiseptics. If this is not done, then any moisture hit will be critical for the bath.

The insulation design resembles a multi-layer pie, eliminating the layers of the steps from which it is not worth it. Perform the warming of the frame bath with your own hands is easy, but laborious. Not everyone can make the finishing of the whole design with their own hands, so you can refer to specialists. On average, the insulation of the frame bath in Russia is from 200 r. / M². In terms of wall size, the service is not cheap. Cheaper to do everything yourself, and you can work and gradually.

Warming the bath from the bar from the inside or outside as better

The answer to this question depends on what should be better: Even after the boat caulkit, you have cold so much that, how much does it have a fop - not heats up to the desired degree, or do you want to steam in it two days? In the first case You need to look for the reason where warmth goes. Alternatively, insulation from the inside can help, although it is believed that the wooden bath should not be insulated in a similar way. In the second case It will help external insulation.

IMPORTANT! Which path you would be insulated with a bath, there you lose control over the state of the wood, because it is hidden from the eyes. Relying remains only for the competent installation of insulation.
. The tree breathes, takes and gives moisture, so when insulation, you need to keep the opportunity for his "breathing"

And this means large limitations in the materials used.

The tree breathes, takes and gives moisture, so when insulation, you need to keep the opportunity for his "breathing". And this means large limitations in the materials used.

Warming Baths from Brous from the inside

This method has two minesawhich should be said right away:

1. Insulated from the inside of the bath leaves a tree in the winter in the cold. And this leads to displacement of the dew point, which turns out to be on the inside of the wooden wall. She begins to mock, and then rot, plus also infects the fungus. This can be avoided with proper ventilation, but if there is an error, you will learn about it only when it is too late.
2. When the insulation of the bath bar from the inside is made, the internal useful space is reduced.

Nevertheless, here is the diagram of the cake of internal insulation:

Showing the example of a bath of foam blocks, but the principles are the same.

1. After the cacopa on the antiseptic wall treated with the wall, the frame is made of the crate.
2. In the intervals, the insulation with or without foil is stacked.
3. If the insulation without foil is added a layer of vaporizolation.
4. Leaves a ventilation gap to the thickness of the counterbalax.
5. External finish is made, for example, clapboard.
6. You can use foaming - foil insulation. For a bar, a thickness of 10-15 cm is enough 5 mm foam.

More information on internal warming in the article: We make the insulation of the bath from the inside with their own hands: what and how, different baths and it is necessary to warm in different ways.

Warming Baths from a bar outside

The outer insulation of walls from a bar is simultaneously performing the functions of wind and moisture protection:

1. First, cachatka is done, and the walls are processed by an antiseptic.
2. Then the lamp is made or the guides of the metal are fastened.
3. In the intervals, the insulation is stacked.
4. The next layer is wind and moisture protection. This should be a membrane.
5. Controlling or other way to create an inventory 3-4 cm.
6. Layer of finishing.

The outer insulation of the wall (shown on an example block, but so you can warm any wall).

The insulation of the bath from a bar outside the mineral wool may only be needed, perhaps, if this storage room is. Well, or if the bath is from a very thin bar and is in the conditions of the Far North and is operated with the strongest frosts. Outside, it is permissible to use minvati with phenolic impregnation.

But nevertheless, as a rule, the insulation of the bath bar from the outside is not required.

Choosing the right insulation

Solar scheme

From how much we can cope with this will depend on the result. The choice of the modern market is extensive. The insulation options for frame buildings are. In my opinion, not so fundamentally, on which you stopped, in the end, the choice affects the price and availability of in your area of \u200b\u200ba particular material.

The main thing that you make sense to pay attention is that the selected material is easy enough, and not only because you will be easier for you to work easier if you do everything with your own hands, but first of all because still framework structures Initially, they do not imply large loads. Also, thermal insulation material for the insulation of the bath is desirable to take fire-resistant and non-toxic (as far as possible)

For more information on materials for insulation (thermal insulation), see.

Little frame bath construction can be well insulated with different ways. Available at the price and laboriousness of insulation options using both predominantly natural materials and purely synthetic. Let us dwell on some popular materials.

Reed plates

Comparatively light non-flammable material with excellent thermal insulation characteristics.

The thickness of such plates is different depending on the manufacturer. 15-centimeter blocks are considered optimal for thermal insulation.

Tip: Since in this case we are dealing with natural material, do not forget that it can represent a favorable environment for reproducing various insects, so it is recommended before applying reed blocks, for example, a solution of iron vitriol.

Opening gypsum mixture

Wood sawdust + gypsum in a certain ratio (10: 1) are also considered the optimal software by the budget for the insulation of the frame bath, because it is good thermal insulation qualities. Instead of plaster, cement is often added to the mixture of the same proportion. Both in this case are important as a binder.

Synthetic (polymeric) plates

Polymer-based blocks are represented by all familiar materials such as polystyrene foam (foam), polyurethane foam (PPU), etc. They are easy to use, so the most popular. So most often when it comes to how it is pretty to insulate the bath, it is not particularly soaring (I apologize for the pun), the foam choose - as the easiest option. With nothing against them, I advise you to thoroughly think about fireproof. The foam is not so much so much as it starts to allocate in the first minutes of fire, extremely harmful substances that can quickly lead to severe consequences. You can learn more about this here.

Types of insulation for bath

The insulation for a frame bath is better to use in the form of mats.

If you choose the insulation that is not enough or put it with an insufficient layer, then the functions of the steam wage will be lost. Materials for insulation of frame bathhouse are natural and artificial. Bath and synthetic insulation are incompatible, of course, the design will be cheap, but some of the heating can highlight harmful pairs. Natural belongs:

1. Wood-fibrous.
2. Basaltic.
3. From flax.

To artificial:

1. Fiberglass.
2. Polystyrene foam.

In their shape for a frame bath, choose types: tiled or matte. Roller is also suitable, but it will be more complicated to lay it in skeletin pie. Cut and lay the insulation in the form of plates or mats will be able to any newcomer, it is enough to understand the technology and read this article.

Wood-fiber insulation

Heater from wood fibers is made of sawn waste.

The base of the wood fibers that are associated with different synthetic fibers. It is without allergenic and when laying does not cause irritation on the skin. Materials are made by recycling sawn timber. The erroneous opinion is that a similar insulation from waste paper makes. Thanks to the ability to absorb moisture and also quickly give it to the skeleton bath will breathe as a full-fledged wooden. One of the bright representatives of the insulation on wood fibers is an eclaw, the price of which is from 120 r. / kg.

The main minus is just in the property to absorb moisture. If the hood in the bath is made with errors, then humidity can long linger in the wall design and they will start rot.

Basalt insulation

Basalt cotton wool is made of mineral fibers with their adhesive composition. The main advantages include:

1. High heat saving properties.
2. It does not burn, able to withstand temperatures up to 900 ° C.
3. It does not lose their qualitative characteristics over the years, therefore service life of more than 20 years.
4. Enhances sound insulation.
5. Does not absorb moisture and does not delay it in a frame design.

The main minus of the material was opened at the end of 2014. Previously, it was considered one of the most eco-friendly materials. It turned out that the adhesive composition used for gluing basalt fibers can highlight minor pairs of formaldehyde. Increased or no reaction during heating the research steers was not conducted.

Linen fiber insulation

Mats from flax began to use not so long ago. The material is made of compressed flax fibers. There are no additives, such as formalin. The material is completely environmentally friendly and can absorb - to produce moisture. And because of a dense press, the plates have a high ability to save heat.

The main minus plates is an insufficient test of time and rodents. Mice love to build nests in linen fiber and tear down in the walls of the hole. Over time, the bath will lose its thermal insulation properties.

Fiberglass insulation

Glass gaming during operation sends fine particles of fiberglass. who are dangerous to human health.

The glass gamble is made of glass fibers associated with synthetic glue. It is difficult to work with the material with your own hands, since the fiber gets into the air is settled on the skin and fall into the respiratory tract. They can cause skin irritation and allergic reactions.

Pluses the glass gambles are no less:

1. Does not burn.
2. The price of it is low.
3. Easy mounted.
4. It has high thermal insulation.
5. Creates a slight sound insulation.

If the choice fell on the glass gamble, then all the work on the insulation of the frame bath must be performed in protective clothing and respirator.

Polystyrene foam for insulation

Polyfoam can be used to insulate the walls of the frame bath.

Polystyrene foam is made by foaming polystyrene. Moreover, the larger and fewer air bubbles in the material, the higher its heat insulating properties. One of the bright representatives of the foam. Heat the walls of the frame bath with foam can be, but not recommended. Especially warm the ceiling and space near chimneys. Polystyrethillets has a high fire hazard. He fats from any spark. If the design is insulated with foam, the cake must have protection. The material has a number of advantages:

1. Low price. (The cheapest insulation option).
2. Waterproof.

Any of the listed materials are used to insulate the frame bath. The main thing to run the laying, observing, all the rules.

Outdoor Warming of Log Ban

The heat shift of such buildings is reduced to the elimination of the gaps. Between the crowns in the construction process lay a special jute insulation, but over time the wood begins to dying, cracks and gaps appear, which have to regularly eliminate.

After the end of the construction of the cut and eliminate the shortcomings, the construction should be standing under the roof of the minimum six months. During this time, it is desirable to use the bath. The log house is running out, the tree will dry, and new gaps will appear, which should be corpped.

To this end, use a special insulation of flax and jute. Since the jute perfectly holds heat and does not ignite, but it is easy to break, linen fibers are added to it, which eliminate this problem. Thin segments of the insulation are clogged into the gap using metal blades from metal and hammer. Work is performed carefully so that the building has not occurred.

In addition, choosing, the better to insulate the bath outside, it is worth paying attention to a special sealant - to fill the slots you just need to squeeze the mixture from the syringe directly in the voids. . Log cabin continues to give shrinkage for two years

Specialists advise during this period not to sow it with finishing materials so that there is access to the emerging slots that have to be periodically eliminated. To protect the insulation from different precipitations, you should cover the bath with a film from the outside, fixing the straps.

Log cabin continues to give shrink for two years. Specialists advise during this period not to sow it with finishing materials so that there is access to the emerging slots that have to be periodically eliminated. To protect the insulation from different precipitations, you should cover the bath with a film from the outside, fixing the straps.

Two years after construction, you can finish. Buildings made of logs are allowed to wash with dies, lining, and besides this block house, imitation of the bar. First, the walls are installed on the walls. If it is wooden, it is necessarily treated with impregnations with antibacterial and fire-resistant properties, and then check the construction level to comply with horizontality and verticality.

The finishing material is attached to the crate, which is then covered with varnish or other protective agent. If guides from metal were purchased, they are fixed on special suspensions.

Woodering of a wooden bath outside does not produce, because the logs themselves are well held warmly. The structure is insulated from the inside - usually steam and washing. But if you still want to warm up the construction and outside, then on the material, the wet moisture, places a vapor-or hydrobarier, fastening the straps, which then mount the finish.

How to insulate the bath from the inside

Technology insulation logs and brick baths are very similar

Most masters do not consider it necessary to warm the walls of the baths from the inside, paying attention to only the roof, ceiling and foundation. So let's find out the reasons why you should warm the bath from the inside and what technologies for this exist

Warming Parling - Photo

For what is needed

The diameter of the wooden crown in the bathhouse is most often 20 centimeters. In the event that the cacked was performed qualitatively, it will not be necessary to insulate your bath from the inside. But still there are reasons why it is necessary:

• it may happen that the diameter of the crown in the Siruba is small, which will lead to poor thermal insulation;
• the bath must be insulated from the inside if the foundation was not insulated. Or was insulated, but very weak;
• due to bad weather conditions, the insulation of the bath outside is insufficient.

The masters are confident that if it is enough to warm up a bath, then it will go to her heating 3 times less energy, and it will be possible to use a weaker furnace.

Wall insulation will allow in the future to save on fuel

The walls of the insulated bath in their structure are very similar to the thermos (sometimes they call insulation cake). After all, those who are going to really warm the baths, you will need vapor and waterproofing.

The walls of the insulated bath have the following structure: a predetermined wall, a mandatory layer of waterproofing, thermal insulation, vaporizolation, and, of course, decorative trim.

If you choose the right quality material correctly, you can independently cope with the insulation of the bath from the inside very quickly. For insulation, the bath will be needed with the material that will be:

• high quality, with high thermal insulation properties;
• not inclined to rot, and will not be damaged by a variety of insects;
• the most important thing, the insulation must be fire-resistant, because the temperature in the bath can be above 100 degrees.

Since not all materials are suitable for quality and properties for the internal insulation of the bath, most often specialists use basalt wool. In addition to the fact that it has a quite acceptable price, basalt wool is also suitable for other parameters. In addition, it is recommended to choose special synthetic plates that have a soft structure.

It should be remembered that, warming the walls, you should make hydro and vaporizolation in parallel with thermal insulation, because these processes are closely connected.

First of all, the surface of the walls should be prepared.

If you see any slots or seams, you should fill them with plaster. Also for these purposes, experts recommend using sealant. After you have finished, you should go to the next step - waterproofing.

Note. In the event that your bath was made of a log, then it is strictly prohibited from waterproofing immediately after the construction. To begin with, wait until shrinkage ends, often it takes more than a year.

Woven wall insulation schemes

How to produce hydro and thermal insulation

First of all, you should protect the wall, the floor and the ceiling of the bath. It is best to use polyethylene film or a special foil.

The insulation technology itself with the use of foil is simple. The following should be done:

first of all, it should be vertically attached to the wall of your bath wooden bars (4 * 4 centimeters). It is to them that will be attached foil. Make sure that all the bars are in the same plane, when working, use a laser level or pull the guide-guide to convenience. If necessary, there are thin wedges between the wall and bars. Bruks are secure with long self-drawing, having previously drilled by holes in the wall and the bars themselves;

Laying insulation between bars of crates

• foil is attached to the bars, which is neatly stretched and fixed using a special stapler;

all sorts of joints must be isolated with the help of aluminum construction tape;

Fungalized vaporizolation

• on top of the foil, which was carefully fixed, you need to fill bars from the tree in the vertical direction;

and the last place the facing board (lining) should be attached to the bars.

The photo is visible in the photo, the lamp under the lining and the facing panels themselves

Note. All bars should be lubricated by a special antiseptic means in advance.

Heat ceiling

It is very important to make reliable steam protection, mineral wool works under the ceiling in the most difficult conditions.

Heat ceiling

Sheets can be put on the draft ceiling (optimal from our point of view) or fix from falling out by any metal slats, and to attach a finishing lining to navigate special rails 20 × 50 mm.

Step 1. Pribe a rough ceiling to ceiling beams. For this, you can take the unedged boards of the second-third grade with a thickness of about 20 mm. Do not forget to remove the bark. Under the crust, the pests will always appear over time, which will begin to damage not only the black ceiling boards, but also all wooden frames of the frame bath. The distance between the boards is 20 ÷ 25 cm, for fixing you can use ordinary nails or wood screws.

Ceiling Ceiling Device

An example of a rough ceiling

Step 2. Stay in the free niches of the draft ceiling of the heaters, carefully align them all over the perimeter. Initially, it is followed by the attic to put the entire insulation, then from the inside to correct their position. In the joints between the sheets, insert the knife or canvas of the hacksaw and, moving their back / rear, achieve the perfect fit of the insulation on all parties.

Laying Minvati.

Step 3. Take care of vapor insulation. To do this, you can use aluminum foil, modern membrane materials or an ordinary polyethylene film. All these materials are well coped with the tasks set, although the price difference can be very significant.

Parosolation of the ceiling bath

Practical advice

The main attention is paid to the sealing of the joints of insulating materials. Taste in these places at least five centimeters, joints should be sickling with a scotch or special foil

When working with foil, be very careful - she quickly rushes. And any hole significantly reduces vapor barrier with all negative consequences. Parosolation is fixed by the stapler, do not allow large savings of the material. The distance between the finishing clamping of the ceiling and insulating material should be at least one centimeter.

Out of vaporizolyai racks of crates for mounting lining

Step 4. Speak to the ceiling beams of racks with a thickness of about two centimeters, the lining will be attached to them.

Video - Warming Bath

Step 5. Check the position of the waterproofing and insulation, if everything is normal, then begin the finish finish of the ceiling. During the trim, additional works may occur if the chimney is released through the roof. How to finish a chimney pipe?

Principle of protection of a warmed ceiling from the heat

The work complex will depend on the material of the manufacture and type of chimney. Consider the four most common types of chimney pipe.

Sandwich tube. The most modern chimney has built-in thermal insulation, mounted together with the ceiling cutting.

Ceiling and passage knot

Ceiling and passage knot, top view

Ordinary metal pipe. The most dangerous from the point of view of fire standards. During the insulation of the ceilings, it is necessary to leave distances between its walls and the nearest wooden elements of at least twenty centimeters. The hole in the ceiling after insulation and the chimney installation should be covered with a metal sheet. Use a thin layer of mineral wool or sheet asbest for sealing slots. The material is stacked between the ceiling cover and iron sheet and tightly tightened with self-draws or nails.

Shot Pass through Fuel Overlapping

Ordinary brick. As a rule, the thickness of the walls of such a chimney is 220 cm. Additional events on the isolation of wooden structures are the same as in the case of metallic.

Pass of direct brick chimney through the ceiling

Classic brick. It has a special thickening (flush) at the passage of the ceiling. Additional fire fighting measures at a passage of the ceiling chimney are not accepted.

Funching brick chimney

Metal chimney installation guide. Elements of chimney and ceiling and passing node

Outdoor thermal insulation

The main functions that insulation should perform are:

• preventing the contact of the design with cold air outside;
• elimination of the occurrence of drafts indoors;
• protection of buildings from precipitation, destroying building materials.

Depending on the main material of the building (wood, brick, sandwich panels or foam blocks), a way of insulation of a bath outside is selected. How to insulate the bath, assembled from brick or foam blocks? Laying a layer of insulation on top of brick or foam block walls - a prerequisite condition, which is determined by the high coefficient of thermal conductivity in these materials. Otherwise, the bath will quickly cool or will have to perform the masonry of the walls of a width of 70 - 80 cm, which is completely unprofitable from an economic point of view.

Make a brick bath warming easier through the system of the ventilated facade.

The production technology of work includes:

Outdoor thermal insulation Baths of bricks.

• application on the walls protected by a layer of waterproofing of the insulation (it is best for insulation to use mineral wool);
• sheathing walls with finishing materials (siding, lining or simple boards, fitted tightly to each other).

The main advantages of mineral wool include:

• low thermal conductivity;
• nonseasing;
• environmental safety;
• durability;
• strength;
• increased noise insulation.

To insulate a brick bath with a method of ventilated facade, it is necessary:

1. Fasten the brackets on the surface of the walls, having a form of small sized carnels, with a slightly smaller step (about 10 mm) width of thermal insulation mats.
2. Fill the space between the brackets of the insulation layer. The stitched heat-insulating mats differ quite high elasticity and are capable, not destroying, to withstand significant compressive loads. This property will allow not to use a dowel when attaching.
3. Skin the joints between mats with a construction scotch tape or special glue.
4. With the help of thin rails (slats), the entire surface of the walls are tightened with a rolled waterproofer.
5. The final stage. The guides are installed on the brackets that serve as an additional retention of the insulation and as a support for mounting a facing facade material.

In the same way, foam or aerated concrete baths can be insulated. How to insulate a bath from a tree? Required:

Wood bath insulation scheme.

Baths built of timber or logs are characterized by the formation of slots over time as a result of shrinkage of the crowns. Through the slots cold air enters the room. The insulation of a wooden bath outside is performed by the laws of interventical spaces.

For these works, jute insulation are best suited. Jute fibers have a very small thermal conductivity coefficient. In addition, it is not afraid of rotting processes in a humid environment. The disadvantage of Jute is its small strength, so basically apply materials in which linseed fibers are additionally introduced. Such an additive makes the insulation more elastic, durable and elastic. The most common materials for the insulation of the wooden bath are flanutin and felt based on jute and flax.

Warming a bath from a tree starts still during construction. Works are performed in the following sequence:

• laying insulation during the construction of a church;
• after assembling a log cabin of adjacent logs are processed by a special composition;
• the gaps are clogged with jute fiber. It is sealing it with the help of hammer and cavinc. In order for the design of a wooden bath does not shift, caking begins from the lowest crown. After it is processed throughout the perimeter, transfers to the subsequent;
• to prevent water from entering between the crowns, the lawshots are covered with sealant.

How to insulate a panel (frame) bath?

The principle of insulation of a frame bath.

The insulation of such a bath should be considered in more detail, because frame structures are not able to withstand large loads, unlike bricks and wooden log cabins. Selecting the insulation for such buildings, it is necessary to mainly be guided by its low weight. Therefore, the best option will be insulated with a foam structure.

This polymer material is very well suited for thermal insulation of frame structures outside due to its low thermal conductivity and occasional contact with water. The small weight of foam plates allows them to fix them without mounting a frame (foam gluits right on the wall). The plates are then coated with plaster or coat with facade materials. The main and probably the only minus foam is his fragility.

Back to the category

Heat insulation bath from timber

The outer insulation of bath buildings from the bar is produced in the same way as in the case of the structure of the logs. The construction should also stand out, since it also occurs the gaps that have to be embedded.

As for the question than to insulate a bath from a bar outside, the choice depends on the climatic characteristics of the region, wall thickness. This work is performed if the timing thickness for this type of climate is not enough to effectively conserve heat.

Warming occurs as follows:

• perform the crate using a bar or metal guides, exposing elements in two planes - vertical and horizontal;
• mount thermal insulation materials;
• shutd up moisture and windpower;
• make the crates (this is not a mandatory stage of work, but a gap should be present between the protective film and the finish material);
• perform an finishing finish.

The bath is outside with clapboard, siding, edged board, block house, metal products and other materials. After performing the finish, the decoration from the tree is necessarily covered with lacquer composition for external work, sometimes in addition to it in front of it, although many modern mixtures have a slight tin effect.

When siding was used as a finishing material, it becomes a mandatory arrangement of the ventilation gap between the trim and insulation. To create a crate, it is recommended to use guides, which can be purchased in the same place where siding. They are attached to special suspensions.

Sequence of warming work

1. The very first stage of insulation will begin when the log house is assembling when between its elements will have to put the organic fibrous thermal insulator: Puff, Jute, Flap, Exceeded Moss or Combination thereof.

Only after six months it is possible to complete this process with the help of hammer and cavropka (special spatula), gently embedded the ends of the fibers in the seam

True, it appeared for this purpose and synthetic sealants, but for the bath it is especially important to observe environmental safety in conditions of heating and evaporation. .

When bookmark the bath, you can take measures to insulate the floors, especially if they are constructed from concrete. In this case, it will have to perform primer work on alignment, sand and clamzite swelling; Fill base floor.
How to insulate the ceiling and walls of the bath? Warming is carried out from the inside and outside, but after the process of shrinkage of the structure ended.
The safety of windows and doors, outdoor and inner lining.

Wooden bath insulation from inside

How to insulate a bath from a log (timber)? Start with ceiling insulation, It is he who takes over the first wave of heat and a couple. The thermal insulating layer must be significant (in the steam room - up to 15 cm) with a mandatory vapor protection membrane: it is a foil for the wage, for other rooms - kraft paper or thick polyethylene. The walls in my soap and the pre-banker also sufficiently hang from the inside with clapboard or wooden dies from the hardwood tree (aspen, linden).

1. Algorithm of ceiling insulation:

• pure rolled paper, we wipe the surface of a wooden ceiling (Krepim Scotch and Stapler);
• freakimar the ceiling bars exceeding the thickness of the insulation used (preferably hard mats from basalt wool or slagolokol); For overlapping of the pre-tribades and soaps, it is possible to use clamzit, sand and even sawdust in blending with clay as insulation;
• the mats are stacked into the obsection of the veil;
• the next layer is the aluminum foil, whose joints are sampled by scotch;
• on foil, as the base for the facial sheathing is fastened;
• if the ceiling of the bath will be used as a floor of another room, then 3 cm of cement-sand tie under wooden flooring is made on top of the insulation layer.

Algorithm of insulation walls in a wooden bath (for steam room):

• work is carried out on top, from the ceiling;
• start with biocidal impregnation;
• sealant or plaster close up the gaps;
• thermal insulator use magnesite plates, dry-fiber;
• parosolytor (foil) is horizontally stretched along the walls, overlapping the ceiling, (attached to the wall, the joints are closed); It is possible to use a new, resistant to high temperatures, the material - a folgized foamier;
• on top of the obtained layer on the vertically located bars, the sheathing of hardwood wood with a low density coefficient is attached;
• there is a gap in 2 cm to create a ventilation space and prevention of condensate formation.

Floor insulation algorithm for basic screed:

The first way:

• bituminous mastic is applied to the concrete surface;
• after its drying, the floor is covered with a thick polyethylene film;
• next, laying a ceramic tile or a warm flooring device.

The second way:

• located a layer of 15 cm mineral wool;
• covered with an EuroRuberoid with an occasion at the level of the plinth;
• lags are processed by antiseptic;
• stacked the draft floor;
• pure wooden floorboard from a t-shirt board.

The first way is now suitable for the utility rooms of the bath, the second - for the steam room.

Installation of a metal furnace in a bath. You will read about it in the following article.

And here is an article about the insulation of the ceiling in the bath on your own.

How to insulate a frame bath

Selecting the appropriate insulation for the bath, you should pay attention not only to the heat insulating properties of the material under consideration, but also to the ability to withstand considerable temperatures at a high level of humidity. .
In addition, calculating the insulation of the frame bath with their own hands, it is worth considering that heat-insulating materials for baths should not be released toxic substances when heated

Some relaxation of fire safety and environmental requirements can be made only for those insulation, which will be used in the outer decoration.

In addition, calculating the insulation of the frame bath with their own hands, it is worth considering that heat-insulating materials for baths should not be released toxic substances when heated. Some relaxation of fire safety and environmental requirements can be made only for those insulation, which will be used in the outer decoration.

In the practice of construction to improve heat insulation baths it is customary to use Multiple types of materials.

1. Mineral wool plates. This material is formed by thin fibers obtained from melt or rocks or waste of the metallurgical industry. Since when weave the huge number of such fibers between them there is a significant amount of air, then such plates acquire excellent thermal insulation qualities.

Moreover, since inorganic substances have a very high melting point, the mineral wool slabs formed with their use are successfully opposed even to the most severe heating, without losing its operational qualities. For the same reason, such plates are not destroyed and do not lose heat-saving properties from the inevitable for any high humidity bath.

Reed plates. This natural material is attractive to its environmental friendliness, as well as good thermal insulation qualities. The thickness of such plates is 15 cm, which is very convenient when erecting frame walls.

Opening gypsum mixture. This insulation is made by mixing 10 parts of thoroughly dried sawdust with 1 piece of gypsum or cement. The main advantages of this option is a low cost against the background of good thermal insulation.

Polyfoam, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam and other foamed synthetic materials. The advantages of foamed synthetics include the following:

• low cost;
• low weight;
• simplicity of cutting material and its installation;
• low thermal conductivity guaranteing excellent heat insulation;
• immunity to moisture.

However, all varieties of foamed synthetic insulation cannot be used on those elements of the bath design, where high temperature is likely. Therefore, they only apply them to insulate the baths walls located at some distance from the furnace (Washing department, pre-banker, rest room).

Video about the insulation of a frame bath.

Properties of stones for a bath. About this and many other things about the stones for the bath you will read in the following article.

And in this article tells how to insulate the bath from the inside.

Wall insulation near the furnace and chimney

Plots of walls near the chimney and furnaces are a risk factor in a fire hazardous attitude and require the appropriate device. The wall through which the fuel tunnel passes, or the furnace comes into contacts, should be made of bricks. The installation site of the furnace is equipped with two layers of felt, which is put three layers of bricks. No contact of the furnace or chimney with wooden parts or insulation material is not allowed. The distance from the furnace to the nearest combustible structures should be at least 50 cm. Around the furnace is recommended to build a brick case, which will reliably protect the wooden structures and people from the heat of the metal furnace.

Solid outer heat insulation depending on the material of bearing walls

How to insulate the bath outside if it is assumed not to seal the joints, namely the installation of thermally insulation facing? Consider the types of bearing walls:

Before the insulation of the bath is needed a literary calculation of the thickness of the insulation layer

• Brickwork or concrete design. Types are combined into one category, since the inertial buildings having a high heat capacity and high allowable moisture compound.

• Foam concrete and gas blocks. Occupy an intermediate position between cutters and brick baths.
• Shed. Requires strict taking into account the relative vapor permeability of each layer of the warming sandwich.

Brick or concrete walls

Of the two methods of selection of the insulation relative to the structural material, it makes sense to use the dew point shift method. What does this mean? A thermal insulator is taken with vapor permeability close to zero (for example, polystyrene foam) and pasted on a draft wall. The inner insulation also contains impenetrable layer - foil infrared screen. It turns out that moisture condensed into the thickness of concrete or brick, there is nowhere to evaporate.

So that there is no convergence, it is necessary to ensure the location of the dew point outside the draft wall - in polystyrene foam. For this, it is necessary to increase the thickness of the outer insulation to about the heat resistance of the wall 4.0 - 5.0.

In the middle lane of Russia, this corresponds to the thickness of the EPPS 200 mm plates.

Wall insulation scheme

The material will cost a decent amount, but the budget of the work will be less than when implementing the technology of the ventilated facade (with mineral wool, air gap and handling finishing). In addition, the independent salary of the walls of the EPPS plates is much more affordable for non-professional, than any other ways of external thermal insulation. With everyday operation, such a steam room in the inner cladding should be left only to the reflective screen and lining with the clapboard. For paired sessions 2 - 3 times a week, it makes sense to divide the calculated thickness of the insulation by 2 layers: 150 mm for the outer surface and 50 mm for the inner lining.

The choice of finishing finish from the street should relate only to the budget, the possibility of self-realization and personal aesthetic preferences. From the point of view of the warming sandwich, the physical properties of this layer are absolutely not important. If there is no desire to contact the plaster, you can separate the bath with any relatively light plates or panels that differ in moisture resistance. The main thing is not to use chemicals that can destroy polystyrene foam.

Foam concrete and gasoblocks

Bath insulation outside Polyopolisol

How to seize a bath built from cellular materials? For independent work, all the same expanded polystyrene should be held.

The only difference with the previous version of the bath will be that the thermal calculation will require a smaller layer thickness of the EPPS (120 - 150 mm), with other things being equal to the climate, the thickness of the masonry and the predetermined value of the heat transfer resistance of the wall sandwich.

Log

This idea may look strange, but the cut is sometimes required "fur coat". Especially if we are talking about re-equipment of the bath with the change of the purpose of the object (for example, from personal on commercial). The only insulation, the vapor permeability of which is higher than the wood is mineral wool. However, minus this ventiy is associated with a large working capacity. You will need:

Wooden Bath Warming Outside

1. Fill horizontal rails to form a crate.
2. Put the roll or slab mineral wool.
3. Hit the windproof membrane by grabbing it with a stapler to the crate.
4. Mount the vertical rails. Controls that form ventilation gap and employees for mounting the finishing coating (for example, wooden or plastic lining).
5. Make a high-thinted membrane (hydrobarrier) along vertical slats.
6. Mount the decorative coating.

Materials that can be used

First of all, you should decide on the materials that are most often used for insulation. In the insulation can be:

• styrofoam
• mineral wool
• ekwata.
• glasswater
• folgized insulation
• polystyrene foam

Important: Remember that the bath is not just a house. There is an increased humidity, temperatures, condensate steam on the surface, so it is important to choose the insulation material correctly

Styrofoam

The foam thing is irreplaceable, and it is particularly used in the baths. The main reasons for this is:

1. Polyfoam is not afraid of moisture. He does not absorb moisture, does not change due to her sizes and does not reduce the quality of insulation.
2. It is easy to install it. The foam weighs little and can be used for all elements of a frame bath - for walls, gender, roofs.

Warming of bath foam

The minus foam as insulation is his fire hazard. Polyfoam is not bad, so it is necessary to be extremely neat, warmingly bathroom. The second possible minus can be considered the love of mice who make moves in the foam and use this material for the construction of their nests.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is considered the best insulation for the bath, however, when using this insulation, do not forget that he is afraid of moisture

Special attention should be paid to vaporizolation and waterproofing. Read more about Mineral Vata insulation here.

Warming with a skeleton bath of mineral wool

Waterproofing allows moisture not to get inside the insulation. Mineral wool comes in disrepair very quickly, if there is even a small gap in waterproofing. Wat absorbs water, the walls become wet and raw, the material is joined, hollow places appear in the frame. It is not necessary to talk about the warm room in such a situation. Therefore, waterproofing needs to be laid, with a reserve of 15-20 cm, and glue special scotch. It is better to glue from the inside, since the adhesive adhesive under the action of moisture can lose its properties.

For the insulation of the walls of the bath, it is better to take mats than rolled mineral wool. Starting the installation of mats you need from below.

Ekwata.

When insulating an eco-hand, an antiseptic and flame retardant add to it

Equodata is extremely rarely used for insulation of walls, floors or roofs of a bath. There are several reasons here. First, it is a very fire-hazardous material, and secondly, as any natural materials, it is afraid of moisture. Equodata use is irrational.

Glasswater

Warm the frame bath glass in the special clothes and dressing

Glasswater is a good option for bleat insulation. It has good thermal characteristics, not afraid of fire and moisture, and it does not like the mouse. It is the disadvantage of it that when warming up with his own hands will have to wear protective clothing, while it is damaged by vapor barrier, then particles of glass gambles can get to people that in the Ban Crine is unpleasant.

Liquid insulation

Liquid polystyrene foam can also be used to insulate the walls of the bath, but do not do it with their own hands. Protective clothing needed to work with liquid polystyrene foam. , In addition, only a person with experience will be able to apply it correctly and evenly.

With liquid insulation, you need to create a uniform layer

About how to insulate a panel house, read here. About how to use foam when insulating at home, read here.

Foil Material

Foilized insulation is considered one of the best insulation for walls of the bath. What does it differ from other materials? One side of this insulation is a layer of foil material. It reflects heat and returns it inside the room. In this case, the basis of the insulation can be various materials:

• polyethylene foamed
• basalt Wat.
• bitumen (the final product is called foil isolon)
• mineral wool
• polystyrene foam

Fungalized insulation in the bath is one of the best options.

The insulation with a foil layer creates an excellent barrier for heat and steam, as a result of which heat is held in the pair for a long time.

How to insulate a frame bath features of material and technology

For insulation of a frame bath, it is important to take into account the characteristics of the process and the right choice of insulating materials. The following requirements are presented to the latter action :. Resistance to elevated temperatures and humidity;
environmental Safety;

• resistance to elevated temperatures and humidity;
• environmental Safety;
• good thermal insulation indicators;
• low exposure to rotten and fungal lesions.

The optimal solution for the bath can be basalt Wat.. She combines non-hatching, good strength and insulating indicators . Sheet polystyrene foam is used for the pre-tribbon and recreation zone. Insulation efficiency rises combination of insulation. It is also possible to use liquid polyurethane foam.

The thickness of the insulation depends on its type and features of the bath operation. If it is supposed to use steam room only in the warm season (in the country), for the walls there will be enough insulation in 5 cm. With permanent operation, the layer thickness can reach 10-15 cm (depending on the climatic zone). For the ceiling, this indicator increases to 20 cm.

Warming the bath should at the construction stage. After all, dense insulation will be simultaneously structural material. Specialists are recommended anti-grib and moisture proof All wooden structures at the same stage. It is also necessary to take care of arrangement in a timely manner. hydro, parobacker and reliable ventilation system.

How to insulate a bath outside

On the modern construction market today is presented the widest choice of various heat insulating materials, among which:

1. Inorganic:

• Mineral wool - General name for a number of insulation: stone, basalt, slag and glass gamblers. Due to the set of advantages, one of which is the absolute inhabitant, holds the championship among the most popular thermal insulators.
• Warm plaster combined the traditional decorative finish method using the heat insulating properties in the cement solution with heat insulating properties, which is commonly used vermiculite and perlite or modern foamed polymers.
• Foamgloproduced by sintering molten and foamed glass recycling, has unique characteristics: complete waterproof, biochemical resistance, absolute non-combustibility, environmental friendliness.

Organic:

• Arbolit, Fibrololit and other species Concrete blocks and plates with fillers of vegetable origin, which can be used as a structural building material and insulation.
• Pacle, jute and some other species The vegetation-fiber materials are usually used for caulking and interventional insulation of wood structures.
• Foamed polymers, among which the most famous foam plastic, extruded polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam today are the best thermal insulators of artificial origin. These include foamizol, foam and many others.
• Cellulose insulationIn essence, a wool recycled from paper-cardboard recycled, has very good heat-shielding properties.

The variety of materials presented, given all their varieties and modifications, causes initially confusion, but with attentive consideration it turns out that there is only three main technologies for external thermal insulation Buildings:

1. "Well" insulation It is used for interconnect thermal insulation of brick and frame-shield structures. It can be attributed to it, for example, well insulation of a brick masonry or a popular construction method from heat cells - special "sandwiches", consisting of two bonded jumpers with carrying surfaces with a gasket from the heat insulator between them, as well as filling of foamiza and filling of clay or cellulose wool to interconnect space or interval between the wall and the trim.
2. "Wet" facade Call the method of heat shields using glued or attached to the surface of the walls of the walls of the heat insulating material, which, after tosing a reinforcing mesh, are plastered or wedged with facing facade materials. This method is used mainly for walls of mineral materials: concrete, bricks, various blocks, but quite often used for wooden walls.
3. Called "Ventilated" facade The method of insulation is one of the most popular. Suffice it to say that the traditional lining of the walls with clap is one of his examples. It recently joined the facing by a block house, decorative facade panels, siding of various species.

For outdoor bleeding bath Any of these ways are suitable. The differences will be determined only by the source material of the walls, from which the method used will depend. If we consider only those methods and materials that can be performed with minimal costs with your own hands, then the circle narrows even more.

For example, work on insulation sprayed insulation: cellulose or polyurethane foam requires special expensive equipment and management skills, therefore they are not suitable for independent execution. Some materials, such as foam glass or cork insulation, are quite expensive, especially for auxiliary buildings.

How to insulate a brick bath? You will read about it in the following article.

And here is an article about the insulation of wooden baths.

Arrangement of vaporizolation

Before you begin to work, it is necessary to know how to warm the frame bath, to perform its qualitatively. Regardless which of the materials was chosen as a heater, when it laying it in the frame cell, it is necessary to ensure reliable vapor barrier (more detailed: "Parosolation of the bath is a choice of material and its installation").

If you do not cut off the insulation from the atmosphere of the bath with its high humidity, it in the process of cooling the steam will absorb water, which will certainly lead to the most undesirable consequences:

• wester thermal insulator will significantly increase its own thermal conductivity and heat will quickly move out of the room in the environment;
• the porous structure will not give the material to dry quickly, which means that mold may appear and the construction frame starts to start.

Thus, when the skeleton bath is made - the insulation of the walls is performed using high-quality vapor barrier.

• aluminum foil - not only protect the insulation from the influence of moisture, but will also reflect thermal energy;
• polyethylene film;
• pergamine is environmentally friendly and is inexpensive.

It is unwanted to use the runneroid, since during the heating process it begins to smell unpleasantly. When installing vaporizolation, it is impossible to allow even the slightest slits between the segments of the material. The tightness of the joints provide with the help of metallized tape, or laying the nearest adjacent canvas.

Outdoor work

After we warm our construction outside, we will not only contribute to the reduction of heat loss, but also protect the walls of the structure from external factors. But before you think about how to insulate the bath, we must choose the material that we need for thermal insulation of the building. You should choose it depending on what material you have erected bath walls. If the walls of our constructions from brick or foam blocks should be thermally insulated, since without additional thermal insulation, such buildings will quickly cool, which means that heating costs will increase.

The most faithful option to improve the thermal insulation of this building is the use of the technology of the ventilated facade. In this case, the heat insulator will be attached to the walls of this building if it is afraid of moisture, it will need to be additionally insulated with the film. On top of the heat insulating layer, finishing materials in the form of clapboard or siding will be fixed

It is extremely important to warm the bath so that a small space remains between the hotel and insulation, which will provide ventilation. Usually, mineral wool is used as heat insulator

But for the reason that, as a result of wetting, she can lose its original properties, it will be necessary to isolate with a film.

What is a frame bath

A few words must be said about the features of such types of buildings. This method was first used in Finland, then experience was adopted in America and there are more than 60% of all buildings on this technology. Light buildings (much reduced losses for the construction of the foundation), warm, comfortable and cheap. The construction time of buildings from scratch and before the end of the finishing work with the right organization is no more than two weeks.

Frame bath - Photo

Important moment. While creating a frame, you need to know what kind of material will be insulation. The fact is that international standards establish the width of the extruded glass gambled or polystyrene foam 60 cm, but some domestic producers for inexplicably reasons for several centimeters reduce it. This must be taken into account during the calculation of the distances between the vertical supports of the frame, otherwise insulation will be carried out with great difficulties and an essential amount of unproductive waste of expensive insulation.

Framework requires mandatory insulation

We have a little dealt with the theoretical part, you can move to practical steps to insulate the frame bath.