The most popular autumn flower is the chrysanthemum, which retains its beauty and freshness for a long time. Therefore, gardeners love to grow it on their plots and even at home on windowsills. Outwardly, a flower grown at home practically does not differ from a garden one. Its main differences are considered to be compact size, a riot of colors and conditions and care requirements.
Chrysanthemums grown at home are unpretentious, but require special care and attention from gardeners.
To grow room chrysanthemum in a pot, you will definitely need drugs that inhibit the growth of the plant. As a result, the flower is more compact and miniature, fitting in small flowerpots or pots. In laboratories, thanks to these preparations, flowers are created with domed inflorescences, called spherical.
Home chrysanthemum care
After you have purchased a flower, you need to provide it with proper care at home. As soon as the plant is in the house, do not immediately put it together with other plants. Better put it for a couple of weeks separately. This will help to avoid infection of house plants if the purchased chrysanthemum is infected or infested with pests. Only after making sure that everything is in order with the flower, you can rearrange it to the rest of the plants.
When buying a chrysanthemum, immediately make sure that it is not infected, with no signs of illness. To do this, carefully inspect all the leaves of the plant, the stem and inflorescence. All elements of the flower must be clean (without mosquitoes and plaque), elastic and well-colored with natural pigment.
If the soil in which the plant is planted is of poor quality, immediately start transplanting. Take a wide medium-depth flowerpot or pot, drainage and soil enriched with nutrients.
As drainage, you can use small pebbles, pieces of foam and coal. With it, the soil will not be waterlogged, since chrysanthemums do not like this and may die.
To make the soil airy and nutritious, you need to mix it with sand, peat, humus and other fertilizers. The roots of chrysanthemums are short, so they do not plant it deep.
The transplanted plant is watered abundantly and tied up if it is absolutely necessary.
How to care for indoor chrysanthemum
Autumn is a rather cool season, so the flowers are in solidarity with it. Homemade ones are no exception and prefer cool places with a temperature of no more than +15 degrees. At higher temperatures, the leaves of the plant, inflorescences or ovaries will become dry and begin to fall off. It is almost impossible for a plant to survive in heat conditions.
Daylight hours in autumn are short, so chrysanthemums also prefer this time period of about 8 hours. However, a flower, in addition to shade, also needs sunlight. A good place for a plant would be a loggia or a balcony where you can draw the curtains to shorten the daylight hours, as in the photo of a room chrysanthemum.
Chrysanthemums perfectly feel air quality and hardly survive in stuffy rooms. Fresh air is vital for them, so the room requires regular ventilation.
The plant likes moderate watering. In hot weather, you need to water it daily, but in moderation, without overflowing. In addition, regular spraying of the leaves about 1 time in 7 days is useful. In winter, it is enough to water a couple of times in 7 days, since moisture consumption is reduced at this time.
Dry leaves should be cut off in time, and wilted buds should be cut off. Only in this way, the plant will exist in conditions suitable for it.
Feeding with minerals will not be superfluous so that the plant grows and develops. From fertilizers, similar preparations are used, as for most flowers.
When transplanting a flower, change the soil and pot. Typically, this procedure is carried out every two years.
Care after flowering
All autumn, the chrysanthemum blooms and pleases the eye, as soon as this period ends, winter comes into its own. Similar conditions for the plant need to be arranged at home.
As soon as flowering is over, cut off the chrysanthemum and leave it in a dark place at a temperature of +2 to -3 degrees. Suitable cellar or pantry. In such conditions, it will safely overwinter, and with the advent of spring, you will notice young shoots that have appeared on the stem. Prepare fresh soil, transplant the flower into a pot and place in a bright place.
Photo of room chrysanthemum
Indoor flowers decorate any apartment or house, and chrysanthemums also delight with long and beautiful flowering in autumn. These plants can be found not only on the street, but also at home. There are many varieties of chrysanthemums that are grown on the windowsill or balcony. Chrysanthemums differ in types, shape, colors, sizes of the bush and buds, so it is easy to choose them for the interior of the house, according to your preferences and taste.
You should not buy chrysanthemums with blooming flowers. They will bloom quickly. Bushes must be fully formed. The leaves should be green, the lower part of the plant slightly stiff, and the roots strong and strong. The presence of spots, inclusions or mechanical damage suggests that such a chrysanthemum is not worth buying, as it will hurt and may die in the future.
As an indoor flower, the best option is a miniature chrysanthemum, which grows in height from 15 to 70 centimeters. The stems of the plants are smooth or slightly hairy. The leaves are bright, pale green, dissected or serrated, smooth or with villi. The buds can be different, starting with small ones, up to 2.5 centimeters in size, and large ones, which reach 25 centimeters in diameter. Forms of flowering in plants may vary.
Flowers can be non-double, double, blanket and two-row.
Particularly popular for growing at home are spray chrysanthemums with non-double flowers similar in shape to daisies and varieties that form a ball when flowering. For a terrace and a spacious loggia, you can buy cascade-shaped chrysanthemums that are suitable for ampelous gardening.
Variety terry yellow For the home, mulberry, spherical, shrubby, Korean, Indian, Chinese varieties of chrysanthemums are most often chosen. They have many flowers on a lush bush. The color can be varied: white, yellow, orange, pink, orange, lilac, two-tone or have different shades. The hearts of flowers most often contrast in color with the petals.
Low-growing chrysanthemums in pots are not demanding in care and delight with their flowering for several weeks. With proper care and good lighting, flowering can be extended up to 2 months.
Chrysanthemum care includes:
- temperature support,
- illumination level;
- systematic spraying;
- regular, sufficient watering.
Lighting, temperature
Flower pots must be placed on the east or west side. On the north side, chrysanthemums do not bloom. And in the south they will begin to wither and get sick. These plants do not like direct sunlight and extreme heat. The sun can damage the leaves and cause burns. The best option is a well-lit, cool balcony or loggia.
If the plants do not bloom and begin to disappear, then you need to check if they have enough light. Poor lighting, as well as an excess of light, is detrimental to chrysanthemums.
Light day for chrysanthemums should be at least 7 and not more than 10 hours a day.
For good flower growth, the best temperature is considered to be: in summer - + 20-23 degrees, in autumn and spring - + 15-18 degrees, in winter - + 3-8 degrees. At this temperature, many buds form on the bushes. Flowering is lush and long.
Chrysanthemums in pots should be watered frequently. Flowers are watered in the evening, after sunset, twice a week. In winter, watering should be reduced. Watering time can be determined by the drying of the top layer of soil in pots. The earth should not dry out, as this leads to yellowing and leaf fall.
Chrysanthemums love water, but an excess of moisture is also fatal for them.
If the flowers are flooded, then mold and mushrooms appear in the ground, and they will start to hurt.
It is not necessary to pour water into the pan. Watering should be frequent, but not plentiful. Water should be taken warm and settled.
Regular spraying from a spray bottle or a container of water, air humidifiers located near plants help maintain the required level of moisture in the air.
Pruning and shaping the bushes is needed to prolong the flowering stage of chrysanthemums. In order for the plants to bloom profusely and magnificently, their tops need to be pinched twice during the growing season. This procedure is performed before the awakening of new buds (in early March) and before the formation of buds (in mid-August).
All thin, protruding, twisted shoots, yellow leaves are cut off. This creates the correct, rounded shape of the bushes.
If the branches are very long over the winter, then they need to be cut. By autumn, without shaping, chrysanthemum bushes become shapeless, elongated, and flowering is uneven.
Caring for a chrysanthemum in a pot: video
For strong plants with lush flowers, top dressing is required. Fertilization is carried out after transplanting the bushes. To do this, take a solution of Crystal, Bon Forte or any other fertilizer that has in its composition: nitrogen, magnesium, potassium, zinc and phosphorus. Top dressing contributes to the development of the whole plant and gives abundant flowering.
Nitrogen fertilizers are used during the formation of bushes. Before flowering chrysanthemums, phosphorus-potassium compounds are used.
You can use an infusion of bird droppings, diluted in a ratio of 1:30 with water, or an infusion of mullein, diluted in a ratio of 1:10. The solution is applied before the formation of buds 1 time in 5 days.
After buying a chrysanthemum, after flowering, it is necessary to transplant into a new pot with drainage holes. It is best to take a ceramic or clay container. The new pot is taken 2 centimeters wider and 1.5 liters deeper than the old one.
Young bushes are subsequently transplanted once a year, adult plants once every 2 years.
The active growth period for chrysanthemums begins in March. In this case, plants can be transplanted into new pots.
Before transplanting, the chrysanthemum must be prepared. The old earth is being replaced by a new one. The composition of the soil should be similar (fertile soil, turf or peat, hardwood, humus, coarse sand in a ratio of 4:4:1:1:1).
To disinfect the substrate, it must be poured with boiling water with the addition of a weak solution of potassium permanganate or calcined in the oven for 3 hours at a temperature of 100 degrees. After pouring boiling water, the soil must be thoroughly dried. Shop soil mixture does not need to be processed.
Expanded clay, vermiculite or broken brick is used as drainage, which is placed on the bottom of the pot.
The flower bush is transplanted completely or divided into fragments. From the separated parts, new chrysanthemum bushes are obtained.
Chrysanthemums can be propagated by seeds, dividing the bush and cuttings.
After flowering, seeds appear on the chrysanthemum, which can be used for sowing.
At home, chrysanthemums are rarely grown from seeds; this is a painstaking and long method. This requires pots for seedlings or a container and greenhouse growing conditions with a normal level of humidity and temperature.
Seeds are laid out in the prepared soil, covered with a thin layer of coarse sand. After that, the containers are sprayed with warm water from a spray bottle, covered with a film and placed in a cool place. The film must be opened from time to time to ventilate and remove the resulting condensate.
After half a month, sprouts appear. Seedlings are installed on the windowsill, and after the appearance of 3-4 leaves, they are transplanted into separate containers. After rooting, the top of the plants is pinched to form a round bush.
This growing process takes a lot of time. Florists prefer simpler growing options, such as breeding by budding (division) and cuttings.
When propagating a bush by budding, after wintering it must be pulled out of the pot, carefully removed with an earthen ball and the roots divided into parts. From one adult bush you can get 5-6 new bushes. Divided plants are planted in separate pots with fertile soil. Young seedlings need frequent watering. Chrysanthemums need to be watered every 2-3 days.
The best time to propagate chrysanthemums from cuttings is early spring.
After the appearance of shoots on the overwintered stems, cuttings 12 centimeters long are cut from the side stems. For quick rooting, the lower part is placed in a solution of any growth stimulants, such as Kornevin. The cuttings are planted in the prepared substrate to a depth of 1.5 centimeters.
As a container for growing, you can use a box or plastic cups with holes in the bottom. After planting the cuttings, the containers are covered with a transparent film to create the effect of a greenhouse. Periodically, the film must be slightly opened to ventilate the plants.
As chrysanthemums grow, they are transplanted into pots with a diameter of 10-13 centimeters. When new leaves appear, pinch off the top, this stimulates the growth of side shoots.
Cuttings of chrysanthemums: video
If chrysanthemums turn yellow and dry, then this indicates improper care for them or the presence of diseases or pests.
- When a fluffy, gray coating (gray rot) appears, the plant begins to rot, to eliminate the disease, you need to use Fundazol, Topsin-M, copper oxychloride. After 1.5 weeks, the treatment is repeated.
- Yellow and then red spots on the foliage indicate the appearance of septoria, which leads to the death of the plant. This disease can be eliminated with the help of Fundazol, copper oxychloride.
- If a gray coating appears on leaves, young stems, buds and flowers, this is a clear sign of powdery mildew. The disease is eliminated with the help of Immunocytophyte, phytosporin, Bordeaux mixture and systemic fungicides.
- Rust affects all parts of the plant with spores of the fungus, rounded spots. The leaves turn yellow, the shoots become brittle. To combat the disease, copper oxychloride is used.
- Verticillium enters the plant through the root system. The leaves turn yellow, become lethargic, the stems die.
- Mosaic leads to the formation of mosaic spots on the foliage.
- Ring spot results in the formation of yellowish rings on the foliage. The leaves are reduced in size and deformed.
- With the appearance of mottling on the leaves and deformation of flowers on the plant, aspermia can be detected.
- Dwarfism provokes a slowdown in growth processes and the accelerated formation of deformed buds.
- Bronze-red varieties of chrysanthemums can be damaged by seedlessness. Flowers become yellowish. Reed flowers are deformed.
Fungicides are used to eliminate all of the above ailments. During the treatment period, the plant must be removed from healthy flowers for at least 20 days, and then transplanted into a new pot with a substrate of the same composition.
Chrysanthemums, in addition to diseases, are susceptible to aphids, thrips and red spider mites.
The aphid damages the buds, the upper parts of the shoots, the lower part of the foliage. Damaged areas become discolored, the foliage turns yellow, curls and falls off. Aphids attack flowers all year round. For insect control are used: Fitoverm, Actellik, Derris, Inta-vir, Decis. In case of severe damage to the bushes, the treatment is repeated after 5 days.
Thrips on the lower part of the foliage form numerous colonies, light dots appear on top of the leaves. The upper part becomes grayish-brown with a characteristic silvery sheen. To eliminate the pest are used: Inta-vir, Aktellik, Fitoverm and Decis. In case of severe damage, the treatment is repeated.
On the leaves of plants, you can often see a red spider mite that damages the surface of the leaves. Chrysanthemums damaged by the pest have pale yellow leaves, solid whitish spots appear on their surface. Leaves fall prematurely. To combat the pest, a weak soap solution is used, Aktellik, Fitoverm, Fufan, Derris.
Questions
Chrysanthemum has faded, what to do after flowering?
After flowering, the stems need to be shortened to 10-15 centimeters. The plant is placed on the balcony, in the cellar, pantry or left on the windowsill. In early spring, the chrysanthemum is gradually brought out of dormancy and transplanted into a new container.
Care for a chrysanthemum in a pot after purchase?
Care after purchase consists in transplanting the plant into a new container and further observing the rules of irrigation, lighting and shaping the bushes.
How to take care in winter?
After the end of flowering, the bushes should be cut, leaving 15 centimeters from the length and placed in a dry, place with an air temperature of 5-8 degrees and sufficient illumination.
Watering bushes in winter is reduced to once a month.
If it is not possible to take the plants to a cool place, you can leave them on the windowsills. In this case, flowers must be cut, dry buds, leaves and branches removed.
In warm conditions, watering chrysanthemums does not differ from the growing season.
Chrysanthemums can and should be planted outside if possible. Plant transplantation is carried out from the beginning of March (after warming up the soil) until the end of May. Chrysanthemums are able to withstand short-term frosts down to -3 degrees. Transplanting to the street contributes to the growth of flowers, their strengthening and abundant flowering in the fall.
With the onset of cold weather, plants need to be dug out of the ground, placed in pots and brought into heat. Two weeks after planting, fertilizers are applied to the soil. If there is humus in the ground, top dressing can be done in a month.
What to do if the chrysanthemum does not bloom?
With proper functioning of chrysanthemums, they bloom in autumn. If this does not happen, then this is a clear sign of a violation of plant care. With late pruning, lack of light, poor soil and lack of top dressing, buds on the bush do not form. When these problems are eliminated, the bush begins to grow and further pleases with beautiful flowers.
During the flowering period, one should not forget about the removal of dried foliage and flowers, otherwise the plant may dry out.
Indoor chrysanthemum is able to decorate any window sill, balcony or loggia. A variety of shapes and colors allows you to choose the right variety that will be combined with other plants or stand out from their background. Proper care guarantees the beauty and originality of flowers.
Luxurious inflorescences on autumn flower beds attract the eye and amaze with a variety of shades. Indoor chrysanthemum in a pot differs from relatives in the open ground by the compact shape of a spherical bush 20–40 cm high. Breeders have bred several hybrids and varieties adapted to lack of lighting and other indoor conditions.
Houseplants are not small copies of garden forms
"Home" chrysanthemums are not demanding for care, they grow well, bloom profusely and reproduce easily. In everyday life, it is customary to say "flowers", although the Asteraceae family has an inflorescence-basket. When buying, you should pay attention to the fact that there is a healthy chrysanthemum in a pot, care at home will then be much easier. A well developed indoor plant will continue to bloom on a windowsill. Under favorable conditions, the buds can bloom almost without interruption for 2 years.
It should be noted that after self-propagation by cuttings or root offspring, new plants do not turn out to be as compact and dense as those purchased in a store.
Outdoor chrysanthemums are sold in plastic containers. Such flowers are planted in open ground, or left in containers, used for container gardening, patio decoration, and the entrance to the house. After flowering, the stems are cut, containers with roots are sent to the basement or loggia for the winter. If outdoor chrysanthemum is kept indoors, its leaves will turn yellow and dry. These plants need fresh air and a certain lighting regime - the night is longer than the day.
Varieties of chrysanthemums for growing in pots
Thanks to the efforts of breeders, geneticists and agrochemists, plants have been bred that can bloom profusely and for a long time in a room. In total, about 40 hybrid varieties of chrysanthemums have been created for indoor cultivation. Inflorescences may be smaller or the same size as in outdoor plants. Often varieties are grouped by origin from one natural species.
Chrysanthemum Indian
In nature, it is a relatively low herbaceous plant. The leaves are toothed, green-gray. The inflorescence is a basket resembling a chamomile with yellow petals and the same core. It is the ancestor of small-flowered hybrids for growing on the windowsill and balcony.
The Indian chrysanthemum was crossed with species having white and pink inflorescences. Breeders with the help of chemicals that affect growth, have received compact forms with a height of 20-25 cm. Today there are a large number of different forms and varieties that do well in the room, are in high demand. The flower is liked and appreciated for the richness of color and long flowering, which is especially attractive in the cold period of time.
Popular varieties of chrysanthemums in indoor floriculture:
- "Golden Gloria" - dense bushes with a large number of large yellow inflorescences.
- "Old Gold" - plants with petals of an unusual reddish-bronze color.
- "Morifolium" - a variety with large simple, semi-double and double inflorescences 5 cm in diameter.
Chrysanthemum Chinese or mulberry
A group of varieties and hybrids, for the creation of which several species were used. Plants for indoor floriculture have a compact shape, thin, highly branched stems 20–25 cm high. The leaves are saturated green, 7 cm long and 4–5 cm wide. Dotted glands are visible on the upper side of the leaf blade. Inflorescences of Chinese chrysanthemums - simple, semi-double and double, of various sizes and colors.
Chrysanthemum care at home
Buy a plant in a flower shop or accept as a gift. In any case, it is necessary to create conditions in the new room so that the buds do not fall off. Planting and caring for a chrysanthemum in a room is different from open ground and a greenhouse.
Lighting, temperature control
Light affects flowering and bud opening. The amount of light that is provided by placing the pot on the windowsill of a plastic or wooden window facing west and east is suitable. Hitting the rays at noon can cause leaf burns, in this situation it is recommended to shade the plant. A young bush blooms with a day length of 6-8 hours in October or November (depending on the region).
The temperature comfortable for room chrysanthemum is 18–23 ° С. The variety, more demanding on the conditions of detention, reacts to the heat by dropping buds and leaves. It is advisable to spray the plant with water more often in summer to reduce the temperature. You can leave it in front of an open window, the chrysanthemum is not afraid of drafts.
Watering and feeding
The soil in the pot should always be moist. Chrysanthemum indoor prefers frequent irrigation, but not excessive. Stagnation of water in a pot can lead to root rot, the spread of fungal and bacterial diseases.
- The substrate must not be allowed to dry out.
- In autumn and winter, water once a week in the morning.
- Watering in spring and summer is carried out 2 times a week in the evening.
- In the heat, spray water near indoor plants to reduce air temperature.
- Used for irrigation and spraying settled water. If it is hard, then a white coating accumulates on the surface of the soil.
- Avoid getting drops on the flowers.
Abundantly flowering chrysanthemums require more frequent fertilization. Spend liquid top dressing once a week until the end of flowering. It is advisable to use complex fertilizers with the addition of trace elements. Actively growing shoots need nitrogen; during budding and flowering, more potassium and phosphorus are required. Feed the plant in a pot about 12 hours after watering.
Pruning and shaping the bush
The purchased plant retains its original shape for a long time. If in the future the growth of shoots is not regulated, then several long stems appear, which reduces the decorative effect.
- Perform pinching of rapidly growing shoots. Small-flowered chrysanthemums will require 2 or 3 treatments.
- Large-flowered hybrids can be formed in the form of a tree, for which the main shoot is shortened and the lower branches are cut off.
- Pinching out inflorescences that are starting to fade helps to increase the number of new buds.
Pruning is needed in case of delayed flowering. Selective pinching of the tops of the flower stalks will ensure the flow of nutrients to the remaining buds.
Plant transplant
Young and old plants need to update the substrate. Transfer to a deeper and wider pot once a year - in spring or early summer. The substrate is prepared from garden soil, peat and humus (1:1:1). You can use ready-made soil for indoor flowers.
For chrysanthemums, such indicators as loose structure, lightness, moisture capacity and nutritional value of the soil (mechanical composition and fertility) are important.
After transplantation, young offspring are covered with a plastic cup, adult plants with a plastic bag. Provide at first diffused lighting, do not forget about watering.
Features of care after flowering
After the end of flowering, weak and diseased shoots are removed. Some growers recommend trimming the stems, leaving short sections above the surface of the substrate. After that, the soil is watered and the pot is removed in a cool, dry place until spring.
You can do without radical pruning at the root, leave the chrysanthemum in its original form on the windowsill in the room. The third option: to stimulate the growth of shoots and form a compact bush, pruning is done, but the pot is not removed. A strong chrysanthemum in the same season will start new shoots and bloom.
Reproduction of chrysanthemums at home
Adult chrysanthemums "acquire" root offspring (kids). From these additional shoots, young plants can be grown. Root offspring are carefully separated from the mother bush, planted in small containers. It is necessary to keep the depth of the plant at the same level. To do this, increase the height of the drainage layer or place the roots higher. Cover the seedlings with a plastic cup. In the autumn of the same year, young plants will bloom.
Rooting stem cuttings:
- Cut off young shoots from an adult plant.
- Fill a transparent plastic cookie or cake container with well-washed sand.
- Planted cuttings, cover with a lid from the container.
- After the formation of roots and the appearance of new leaves, young plants are transplanted into a pot.
Chrysanthemums are difficult to grow from seed. Hybrid varieties are often sterile. Usually, during seed propagation of chrysanthemums, varietal characteristics are not preserved.
The main problems when growing a plant
Why do leaves turn yellow?
Chrysanthemum leaves change color due to improper care and diseases. Yellowing may be due to lack of light, water, hot air from the radiator. The appearance of grayish-yellow or brown spots with a yellow border is a sign of a fungal infection. If yellowing is due to poor care, then it is easier to correct this deficiency than to treat plant diseases.
Chrysanthemum does not bloom - why?
Typical reasons for the absence of buds and flowers are a lack or excess of lighting. Chrysanthemum is a short day plant. If there is artificial lighting in the room in the morning and in the evening, then the biorhythms go astray. Another reason is associated with the rapid growth of stems and leaves, which happens with an excess of top dressing and no pruning.
Diseases and pests of room chrysanthemum
The plant is prone to rust, powdery mildew, gray and black rot. These fungal infections are treated with houseplant fungicides. Chrysanthemum aphids, black sciarid midges, soil mites, springtails harm. The leaves are treated with a solution of Actellik, Fitoverm or Bazudin. For spraying, flowers are taken out to the balcony. Window sills, window frames are washed with a solution of soda and soap.
After the death of the pests, the topsoil in the pot is changed to a depth of 2 cm. It is recommended that you carefully consider the choice of substrate. Usually, pathogens and plant pests are contained in the soil brought from the garden.
It is very important to isolate the affected plant from the rest of the green pets in the room, to carry out pest and disease control in a timely manner. Then the chrysanthemums will remain healthy, will delight in flowering for a long time.
Home chrysanthemums are very compact and beautiful. They bloom for a long time and do not require complex care. These are cold-loving plants that are not afraid of drafts and frosts, but love frequent watering. Let's find out how to grow indoor chrysanthemum at home, and how to properly care for it.
Chrysanthemum is an annual or perennial herb native to Asia. It occurs naturally in China and Japan. It was there that this flower was first grown in the garden.
Chrysanthemums can be both high (50-60 cm) and low - up to 25-30 cm in height. On bare or pubescent shoots, strongly cut leaves alternately sit, painted in a light green color.
Chrysanthemums bloom from spring to autumn, forming flowers in the form of small or large baskets. Flowers can be single, double or semi-double. The color of the petals depends on the type and variety of the plant. There is no smell.
Species and varieties
Despite the prevalence of chrysanthemums, only two of its varieties are suitable for growing at home. These include chrysanthemum:
- Chinese. A highly branched bush grows up to 25 cm. Flowers can be either simple or semi-double or double. Coloring is different.
- Indian. Forms a bush up to 25 cm high. It blooms for a very long time and is not at all afraid of the cold.
Indian chrysanthemums are the most common. Look at their photos: their flowers are more beautiful, more magnificent and brighter.
Choice of location and conditions of detention
Chrysanthemum is not too demanding on the conditions of detention. In any apartment there is a corner that is suitable for it in all respects.
Lighting and location
It is better to put a chrysanthemum on the eastern, western or northern windowsill. If the house has only south windows, then you can place the bowl in the back of the room. The flower needs diffused light. The total daylight hours should be approximately 8 hours. Direct sunlight or too long daylight hours can harm the flower.
In winter, the plant does not need additional lighting. In summer, it can be placed on an open balcony or taken out into the street.
Temperature
The optimum air temperature for room chrysanthemum is + 10 ... + 15 ° C. This flower loves the cold very much, and when the pot is moved to a warm room, it can drop buds. Adaptation to high temperatures is rather painful, but possible. But even in this case, it is undesirable for the air to warm up to more than + 18 ... + 20 ° C. But the chrysanthemum tolerates cold and light frosts calmly. Therefore, it can be placed in a corridor, terrace or balcony before the onset of persistent frosts.
In winter, when a dormant period sets in, indoor chrysanthemum should be placed in a cool room. It is desirable that the temperature in it does not exceed + 10 ... + 12 ° C.
Air and humidity
Chrysanthemum loves moderate air humidity of 50-70%. This level of humidity is maintained indoors independently. However, in winter it can fall due to the constant operation of heating devices. In this case, it is desirable to humidify the air with the help of special humidifiers. It will be good for your health too.
Chrysanthemum responds well to regular spraying of foliage with cool water. Water procedures should be done 1-2 times a week. The flower is not afraid of drafts.
soil and pot
The soil for chrysanthemums should be loose, well-drained and nutritious. The optimal composition of the soil for this flower is as follows:
- peat (1 part);
- perlite (1 part);
- washed river sand (1 part);
- soil universal, bought in a flower shop (3 parts).
It is best to keep the chrysanthemum in a small plastic pot with large drainage holes. The plant feels good in cramped conditions, so there is no need to leave a lot of empty space between the walls of the container and the root system: 2 cm is enough.
Important! Indoor chrysanthemum requires good drainage. Therefore, a 2-centimeter layer of pebbles, expanded clay or vermiculite must be laid at the bottom of the pot.
Care
Caring for room chrysanthemum is very simple. Even a novice grower can handle it. Therefore, potted chrysanthemum is one of the best flowers for getting houseplant content.
Watering
The soil in pots with chrysanthemums should always be slightly damp. These flowers do not tolerate excessive dryness. But you can’t overdo it with watering either. In summer, it is best to moisten the soil 3-4 times a week, and in winter - up to 2 times. Spraying in the warm season should be carried out more often than in the cold. For watering and spraying, you need to take settled water at room temperature or a little cool.
top dressing
Since the chrysanthemum grows in cramped conditions, there is not much soil in the pot, and the green mass of the plant increases very quickly, the soil is depleted instantly. Therefore, the flower needs to be fed often, even more often than other indoor flowers. The optimal frequency of feeding is 1 time per week. This should be done with special fertilizers for flowering plants (these brands are Agricola, Kemira, Zdraven). 1 g of fertilizer should be diluted in 1 liter of water and moisten the soil with the resulting solution. During the dormant period, feeding can be reduced to 1 time in 2-3 weeks.
Loosening, mulching
It is important to maintain good water and air permeability of the soil. Therefore, the soil must be loosened when a dense crust forms on its surface.
Pinching, pinching, pruning
Pruning for chrysanthemums is optional, but it helps to form a lush, compact and neat bush. Therefore, it is desirable to remove growth points from all shoots that have reached a height of 15 cm. Short pruning of the stems stimulates the growth of branches from the side, each of which will give new buds.
The shortening of the shoots should be done after the end of the flowering of room chrysanthemum. This usually happens in late autumn. After that, the flower pot is sent for wintering in a cool room.
Transfer
Home chrysanthemum needs a regular transplant. Young flowers are transplanted every year into a larger container (a pot is selected 2-3 cm wider than the previous one). Adult plants change the pot 1 time in 2 years by transshipment. To do this, you can use the same pot, and the procedure itself is required only to change the old compacted soil.
To understand that a flower needs a transplant, it is possible by a lag in development and a decrease in the diameter of the flowers, a deterioration in their appearance. Water does not pass well through the soil to be replaced. Therefore, after watering, it lingers on its surface for some time. It does not go away even after loosening.
Important! A room chrysanthemum is transplanted in April or early May.
reproduction
Indoor chrysanthemums can be propagated in three ways:
- dividing the bush;
- cuttings;
- by sowing seeds.
The easiest way is to divide the bush. After the end of the dormant period, the flower forms up to 6 new shoots. To get independent plants from them:
- Remove the flower from the old pot.
- Divide the bush into several parts. Each must have at least one shoot and a developed root system.
- Prepare several pots suitable for the size of each seedling.
- Cover the bottom with a drainage layer.
- Pour some suitable soil on top.
- Place the bush in the middle of the pot and fill the remaining space with soil.
- Lightly tamp the soil around the plant and moisten it. Pour a little more dry soil on top to prevent it from hardening.
- Put the pot on a pallet and place it in a suitable place for the chrysanthemum.
The planted bush needs to be looked after as an adult plant, and then already in the same year you can enjoy lush flowering.
Step-by-step instructions for propagating chrysanthemum cuttings:
- In the spring, when the chrysanthemum begins to grow, cut off the tops of the shoots 8-10 cm long.
- Remove the lower leaves so that the stem is completely bare 2-3 cm from the bottom.
- Prepare a shallow container (6-7 cm) and fill it with peat mixed halfway with river sand.
- Moisten the substrate.
- Stick the prepared cuttings into it, deepening the lower part by 15-20 mm.
- Cover the container with film or glass and place it in a well-lit area, but not in direct sunlight.
- Make sure that the temperature under the shelter is approximately +20 ° C. Ventilate the greenhouse regularly and remove accumulated moisture from the surface of the film or glass. Moisten the substrate if necessary.
- Remove the cover when the cuttings are rooted. You will know that the roots have appeared by the beginning of the growth of the shoots. Usually it takes 3-4 weeks.
- When the bushes grow to 15 cm in height, remove the growing point and transplant the seedlings into separate pots.
Cuttings are not the fastest way to propagate. It is usually resorted to when many seedlings need to be obtained from one plant. Another advantage of the method is the possibility of chrysanthemum propagation without disturbing the root system of the uterine bush (without transplantation).
Advice! For faster rooting of cuttings, before planting in the substrate, dip their lower ends into a solution of a root growth stimulator (Kornevin, Epin, Zircon). Keep them there for at least 30 minutes. You can simply dip the tip of the cutting into the preparation: several crystals will stick to it. And some flower growers root chrysanthemum in general in plain water.
Chrysanthemum seeds are rarely propagated. This is a labor-intensive work, which is resorted to only when you want to get new varieties, or there is no material for vegetative propagation.
Step-by-step description of growing homemade chrysanthemums from seeds:
- Prepare a bowl and fill it with soil suitable for indoor chrysanthemums.
- Moisten the soil and sow the seeds without deepening.
- Pour a little soil on top: it should not cover the seeds, but only sprinkle them.
- Cover the bowl with glass or film and place it in a well-lit area with diffused light. The temperature in the room should be within + 10 ... + 15 ° C.
- Every day, remove the shelter to ventilate the seedlings, remove accumulated condensate from it, and, if necessary, moisten the soil.
- After 1-2 weeks, when the first shoots appear, remove the shelter. Continue caring for the seedlings by regularly moistening the soil with a spray bottle.
- When chrysanthemums have 4, 5 or 6 leaves, spread the seedlings into a box or separate pots. The distance between seedlings should be at least 5 cm, and preferably 10 cm.
- When you notice that the plants are about to bloom, transplant them into permanent pots.
Important! To propagate chrysanthemum seeds, use only store-bought seeds from trusted manufacturers. If you sow seeds harvested by hand, they will grow into flowers that do not have the same properties as the parent plant.
When the chrysanthemum has finished blooming, make a shaping pruning and send the plant to rest. For this, a dark and cold room (cellar) is suitable. If this is not the case, you can put it on a glazed, but unheated balcony.
Diseases and pests
The following pests can settle on the chrysanthemum:
- aphids (herds of this pest you will notice with the naked eye);
- leaf nematodes (yellowed threads and ribbons in the form of a worm appear on the leaves);
- spider mite (in addition to white cobwebs, yellow spots appear on the leaves).
Aphids can be dealt with manually or by treating the plant with soapy water. But the leaf nematode and spider mite can only be removed with the help of insecticides (Aktara, Inta-vira, Aktellika). To destroy them, at least 2 treatments with an interval of 1 week will be required.
Chrysanthemum is also prone to fungal diseases. They develop with too high humidity and regular soil transfusion. These include:
- powdery mildew (white coating on the leaves, like flour);
- fusarium wilt (the entire aerial part withers, despite watering);
- rust (rusty coating on leaves and stems);
- leaf spot (light or dark spots appear on the leaves).
Chrysanthemum treatment consists in removing the affected parts of the plant, as well as spraying the flower with a 0.2% solution of Fundazol.
Another common disease in chrysanthemums is mosaic. It has a viral nature. This is one of the reasons that the plant does not bloom, or the flowers become very small. At the same time, the bush itself lags behind in growth. Such a chrysanthemum is not subject to treatment: it must be destroyed, and the pot must be disinfected so as not to infect other flowers.
Chrysanthemum is one of the easiest houseplants to care for. But it blooms for a very long time and beautifully. That is why flower growers all over the world loved him so much. Plant an indoor chrysanthemum and grow a real garden in your home right on the windowsill.
Chrysanthemums are one of the few plants whose flowering can be observed throughout the growing season until late autumn. The main thing – choose the right varieties. But these wonderful moments can be extended if you grow a flower in a pot at home. What kind of care is needed for such a chrysanthemum after purchase, we will consider below.
By itself, the chrysanthemum can be varied. From 15 cm to 1.5 m in height. But for indoor gardening, it is more correct to choose compact varieties. These are Chinese and mulberry.
A low shrub, all strewn with flowers, because of which the stems and leaves are invisible. As it grows, it forms flowering balls. Caring for such a chrysanthemum in a pot at home is within the power of a novice grower. After purchase, it does not even require trimming.
Larger form. The leaves reach a length of up to 7 cm. The lower part of the leaf has bluish villi.
All flowers are collected in baskets. The center of the flower is always yellow, and along the edge – petals of various colors.
Advantages of varieties for the home
The varieties described above are bred artificially, therefore they have a number of properties that garden flowers do not have:
- High disease resistance.
- Does not require formation.
- Flowering lasts almost 2 months.
Note!
Against the backdrop of all the advantages, there is one drawback. If you want to grow a chrysanthemum from harvested seeds, you will most likely get very different results, since these plants are hybrids.
Other varieties
The variety of chrysanthemums for the home is not limited to Chinese selection. A few more varieties:
- Korean spherical. Low-growing bushes, shaped like a ball.
- Multiflora. Beautiful flowers, look like colorful pillows in pots.
- Cascade. Ampel chrysanthemums. Looks good in hanging pots.
In addition to the listed species, other varieties, such as Indian ones, are also suitable for growing indoors.
Care rules
Some aspects of caring for chrysanthemums in a pot at home differ from those generally accepted by gardeners.
Bought chrysanthemums, what's next
In the cold period, when they brought the purchase into the house, they inspect the flower. True, it was better to do it in the store.
If it is warm outside, you can put a bush under the trees for a week, where there is diffused light, and observe.
Seeing spots on the leaves on the plant, small insects, other damage, it is worth removing the leaf plates, and watering the plant itself from a cool shower from all sides.
illumination
Unlike many plants, chrysanthemums do not like direct sunlight. And flowering in many varieties begins when the day has already been reduced by several hours. Therefore, the southern window sill or balcony is not suitable for flowers. It is worth putting the plant on the western or eastern.
Temperature
Chrysanthemum does not like high temperatures very much. They should be no higher than 23 degrees in summer.
In autumn, when the main flowering time comes, on average – + 15.
In winter, you can put a flower on an insulated balcony, where it is not higher than +8, but not less than +3 degrees.
For reference!
Chrysanthemums can withstand light short frosts down to -2.
How to water
Watering is done only after the top layer of the earth in the pot has dried. Moisturize well, but do not flood, all excess water must be removed.
In very hot weather, it is worth placing a container of water next to the flower.
winter care
In winter, the plant, like most others, is dormant. Caring for a chrysanthemum in a pot at home during this period is almost never done. Only flowers after purchase need more thorough preparation for this process.
First you need to cut any flower, leaving about 10 cm.
Then moisten and put in a cool place: on the balcony, in the basement, in a very cold entrance or on the terrace, where it will be until the end of March.
Chrysanthemum is periodically inspected. If necessary, water, but not earlier than after 3 weeks.
Transfer
Caring for a chrysanthemum in a pot at home after buying it in the spring begins with this.
Overwintered plants are also transplanted.
- Pick up a pot larger than the previous one by 2-3 cm.
- It is thoroughly washed, then dipped in a solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection.
- They take a special purchased soil or make it themselves, adding sand and humus to the garden soil.
- Apply organic fertilizers.
- The bottom is covered with expanded clay.
- Fall asleep on top of a third of the ground.
- They put a flower, straightening the roots.
- They fall asleep, not reaching the edge of half a centimeter, well tamped and watered.
Young plants need to be repotted every year, adults – in a year.
top dressing
After transplanting, you can not feed for 3 weeks if organic matter has been added. Then, by mid-summer, they begin to replace nitrogen with potassium and phosphorus.
Produced after purchase after a while. When the chrysanthemum is brought from the store, it looks great because it is supported by stimulants. But a couple of weeks will pass, and a beautiful bush may crumble.
In this case, it is necessary to pinch some stems, and plants interfering inside – delete.
If the cut branches are good, they are placed in water for rooting. The bad ones are thrown away.
If the chrysanthemum was bought in a pot and took root well at home, then after it blooms or in early spring, cuttings with 3 leaves can be cut and young plants can be obtained from them. For reproduction, an oblique cut is made under the bottom sheet, above the top – straight. The leaves are cut in half.
Prepare a soil mixture, the same as for transplanting flowers. Twigs are planted at an angle, moisten the soil well. The container is covered with polyethylene or a plastic transparent jar.
While the chrysanthemum takes root, the plantings are inspected and ventilated so that there is no moisture stagnation, which can lead to the development of fungal diseases.
Remove the shelter only when new leaves begin to appear on the cuttings, and the plant itself begins to grow.
Another way to get new flowers is to divide the bush during transplantation.
The chrysanthemum is carefully pulled out of the container, the earth is shaken off it. You can wash the roots under running water. Then they take a sharp knife, which must be disinfected in a solution of potassium permanganate or wiped with alcohol. They separate small parts of the plant from each other. Delenki must have roots. The resulting bushes are planted in pots in the same way as during transplantation.
Problems of home chrysanthemums
Although indoor flowers are less likely to be affected by diseases and pests, it is still sometimes unavoidable, especially immediately after purchase.
Among the diseases, the following may appear: gray rot, septoria, powdery mildew. Fight diseases with fungicides. Unfortunately, if you start the disease, the chrysanthemum has to be thrown away. Subscribe to our channel in Yandex.Zen!