Instructions for laying a brick oven. How to fold the oven with your own hands drawings and construction technology: step by step instructions, video. Basic design of a brick oven

Traditional stoves heat rooms by transferring heat from their walls. The energy that is released during the combustion process is initially accumulated in the walls of the stove, and subsequently the walls give off heat to the surrounding air. All this is determined by the design of the stove itself.

Types of furnace work

Let's take a closer look at the most popular types of stove work for a country house, so that your cottage is as convenient as possible. The first type is a heating stove, which will be used only for heating the premises. Such an oven must be installed in the front of the house, in which case you can achieve the optimal temperature throughout the house.

Such ovens include Dutch ovens and steel or cast-iron temporary huts. Now, a Dutch stove is understood as a large heating stove made of brickwork. Such furnaces differ in wall thickness. Each dacha requires an individual approach to choosing a heating system, so the thickness of the furnace walls will depend on the specific conditions in your country house.

In addition to these two standard types of furnaces, there are others that are used in a slightly different way. A fireplace in the country house is what can attract friends and relatives to your country house. The fireplace stove looks great. You, gathering with the whole family by the fireplace on winter weekends, will spend unforgettable evenings.

Materials for laying stoves

In addition, furnaces differ in the materials from which they are made. To date, the variety of ovens is simply amazing. That is why when choosing a stove for a country house, it is necessary to resort to the services of professionals who will help you choose something worthwhile and of high quality that will last for decades. Remember that the cottage and the stove are practically inseparable from each other, you should not separate them.

Materials for laying stoves

Name	brand
Brick kiln ceramic	M-200
fireclay brick	Sha-8
rubble stone	Cobblestone
Clay-sand mixture	Plitonite
Refractory mixture	Plitonite
Furnace fittings	Cast iron
Cement	M-500

Furnace Requirements

When choosing a furnace, it must be remembered that it must meet certain requirements.
Basic requirements for furnaces:
- the oven must be economical. Optimum heating temperature due to low fuel consumption.
- the heating of the furnace must be uniform over the entire surface, this also applies to its lower part. During the day, the heat given off by the stove should be distributed evenly.
- the heating temperature of the furnace surface should be optimal, but not exceed 70-75 degrees.
- the furnace should have a simple design to facilitate masonry.
- ease of operation of the furnace.
- any furnace must comply with fire safety requirements. The main conditions that meet the fire safety rules are: the absence of cracks in the stove, the prevention of smoke removal into the ventilation ducts. It is forbidden to install grilles on the smoke channel.
- the oven must comply with sanitary and technical requirements. Do not line the oven with glue or mastic.
- compactness of the furnace. It should not violate the architectural appearance of the house.
- the stove should create comfort and coziness in the house.

Types of furnaces

The heat itself is first transferred to the walls of the stove from an open flame, and then from heated exhaust gases. And if you want to achieve maximum efficiency from your stove, then you need to install a complex system of chimneys, thanks to which hot gas - before it leaves the stove - will circulate in them for a long time, giving off the necessary heat for the heated room.

The traditional Russian stove is a character in many Russian fairy tales. Ilya Muromets, a folk hero, spent more than thirty years on the stove, Emelya rode the stove, she was also a character in fairy tales with Baba Yaga. The childhood of many of us also passed near a cozy large stove.

Traditional wood stoves are widespread in our open spaces. Since ancient times, in the villages, masonry was entrusted to masters of their craft - stove-makers. You also need to carry out preparatory work, as well as dry the oven.

Furnaces that run on natural gas are very simple and at the same time easy to operate. Before you invite a furnace master, you need to decide on the size of the furnace. A small stove will be inefficient, burn a lot of fuel and overheat quickly, and subsequently require sudden repairs. The installation of a gas stove in the house requires individual permission.

Laying the foundation of the furnace is a preparatory work. The space between the parts of the foundation must be filled with sand. Determine the optimal location of the furnace so that the chimney does not fall into the beams that are in the wall. The size of the stove foundation will depend on the size of the stove, namely, it should be 6-7 cm larger than the transverse size of the stove. The depth of the foundation for single-story and room stoves is 50-60 centimeters, for two-story stoves - 1 meter.

The foundation for the furnace should be made of brick, rubble stone or concrete blocks. After that, the finished foundation is opened with a layer of cement, and several layers of roofing material are laid on top to isolate it from moisture. Prior to laying the furnace, the foundation must settle for 6-8 days.

After finishing the laying of the furnace, it should be dried thoroughly. The correct way to dry the stove is natural drying, which leaves all the doors and windows in the house open for two weeks. All oven openings must be open. After the damp spots have disappeared, it can be considered that the oven has dried up. There is also artificial oven drying, which should be used under appropriate weather conditions when it is not possible to dry the oven naturally. At the same time, the surface temperature of the furnace should not exceed 50 0С, the essence of this drying is repeated kindling of the furnace for 30 minutes. It is desirable to melt the oven with small wooden logs. After the furnace has cooled down, re-kinking is carried out. After each next kindling, all stove holes are left open. Artificial drying is carried out for a week, after which, the time for heating can be increased. In humid weather, drying the oven lasts 8-10 days. An indicator that the oven is dry is the absence of puffs of white smoke (water vapor) coming out of the chimney.

Description of work on laying furnaces

During the construction of the furnace, it is necessary to adhere to the drawings given, which are given separately for each row of masonry.

Furnaces are installed on a foundation made of stone or baked bricks. To check the correctness of the masonry, you can first lay out the oven dry, without clay in the yard. First, the bricks of the first row are laid out on level ground, then the second row, and so on. The laying of "Teplushka" above the twelfth row almost does not differ from the laying of an ordinary Russian stove and does not present any difficulties. In the house, the stove is positioned so that the pipe is high and straight. If a boletus is needed in the attic, then its turns are smoothly rounded so that there is no resistance to the movement of flue gases.

The distance from the furnace door to the opposite wall must be at least 1.25 m, the cutting between the furnace and the adjacent wall is made at least half a brick thick plus two layers of felt soaked in clay (that is, from the inner surface of the furnace to the wall there must be at least 25 cm).

When laying a raw brick oven, the dried brick should have the following dimensions: length 25 cm, width 12 cm and thickness 6.5 cm.

During the laying of the furnace, the rules for ligation of bricks are observed. Each vertical seam must be overlapped with a brick of the next upper row. Usually such a seam runs in the middle of the brick lying above. This, however, is not always achievable. In some places it is necessary to lay bricks so that the overlap is less than half the length of the brick. In any case, it must be at least a quarter of the length of the brick. When laying the furnace, the correctness of the angles (equality of diagonals) and edges is checked. The deviation from the vertical is controlled by a plumb line, the equality of the diagonals - by a cord, the horizontality of the masonry - by a level.

To speed up the masonry with continuous control, four cords are pulled vertically between the ceiling and the corners of the base. From the inner surface of the furnace during masonry, every five rows, lumps of clay are cleaned from the seams with a wet rag, since during the furnace the clay falls off and clogs the furnace.

After finishing the masonry, the remaining lumps of clay are first removed from the furnace through the cleaning holes. Then pieces of brick are inserted into them with clay so that they protrude a little into the room and can be easily removed during the next cleaning. In places that require more frequent supervision, for example, at the base of the chimney, doors are placed for cleaning. During the operation of the stove, the slots in them must be covered with clay.

The seams are made no thicker than 0.5 cm, otherwise the clay crumbles and the masonry is fragile. In order for the mortar to better set with the brick, it is wetted in a bucket of water before laying.

Dry brick removes moisture from the clay mortar and the masonry is fragile and breathable, and this negatively affects the operation of the furnace. Refractory bricks are only dipped into water before laying, since it quickly collapses at high temperatures from prolonged soaking.

The solution is prepared from clay, sand and water. Water should be no more than a quarter of the volume of clay. The amount of sand depends on the degree of fat content of clay: an equal volume of sand is mixed with oily clay, lean clay requires less. A solution is not made from one greasy clay, because when it dries it cracks and the masonry turns out to be loose.

Sand should be fine-grained, without silt and lime. It is sifted through a sieve with cells of 1 ... 2 mm. Coarse sand gives thick seams that reduce the strength of the furnace.

The solution is prepared in a trough or on a wooden deck and left for at least a day, then it is thoroughly mixed and the lumps and pebbles are released. Its suitability is determined by touch. When rubbing the solution between the fingers, a layer of sand grains should be felt. If there is not enough sand, then only a slippery film of clay with individual grains of sand will turn out. With an excess of sand, the seam is dense, but fragile, since not all grains of sand in it are glued together with clay. The mortar is used in such a density that it is easily squeezed out from under the brick when pressed by hand. Only then will it tightly fill the seam.

The devices are installed simultaneously with the laying of bricks, otherwise they will not fit well and will be fixed. The ends of the strips protruding beyond the frame by 100 mm are wrapped with wire fixed in the masonry. Since the furnace door and the brick expand differently, its frame around the perimeter is wrapped with asbestos cord, and the gap between it and the masonry (3 ... .4 mm) is covered with clay. The rest of the doors are fastened to the masonry with two-millimeter 10 oven annealed wire or with the help of strip steel paws riveted to the door frame.

The frames of the valves are clamped in the masonry, the cracks are covered with clay. A metal sheet 60x50 cm in size is nailed to the floor in front of the firebox, covering the floor area under the furnace door.

The folded oven is dried, slowly warming up the masonry, for 8 ... 10 days. On the first day, a small amount of fuel is burned, on the following days its consumption is gradually increased and brought to normal. During drying, the view in the pipe is kept completely open for the free removal of moisture released from the masonry.

If the stove smokes during combustion, you must first heat the air in the chimney, since draft in it appears when it is filled with smoke that has a higher temperature than the outside air. In the summer, in a damp cold pipe with warm outside air, a reverse draft appears. In all cases, the pipe must be heated by burning paper or small chips inside it at the base (through the cleaning door) or on a view.

Before laying, you should carefully study the drawings of the furnace and the rules for handling it.
If the pipe must be made on the right side, then the drawings are examined using a mirror placed on them with an edge. After the furnace has been built, the working drawings should be kept for possible repairs.

The laying of the first row is carried out along the foundation, brought to the floor level or higher, but not more than 3 cm.

A small brick oven can sometimes be quite useful, especially if you do not have a large room and do not live in it permanently. It will allow you to quickly warm up the room and create a comfortable environment.

Today we will tell you how to make a small brick oven with your own hands, what you need to take into account for this and instructions on the manufacturing rules will be offered. You can also watch the video in this article and select the desired modification.

Mini ovens and their features

Small brick ovens for summer cottages also have their own characteristics; before making a final decision, you should familiarize yourself with them.

The compactness of a brick or appliance structure is considered the main condition for a small room;
An important condition for such a stove is safety, because usually country houses are built from wood, which dries quickly in the sun and, if hit, the lawn can completely flare up, like a match. Among other things, the chimney and the device itself must be airtight, they have excellent internal draft, because carbon monoxide that gets inside can lead to rather sad consequences;
The stove, which is placed in the summer cottage in the winter, must withstand without kindling for quite a long time and not get damp at the same time;
Warming up and quick kindling of the device, the distribution of heat is also the most important condition for a furnace of this type, because when it rains or when hard work is completed, you want to relax in a warm room and drink hot tea;
It is desirable that such a stove be equipped with large doors - so that it can perform the functions of a fireplace, because it is almost impossible to do without evening gatherings next to the fire;
Long-term heat preservation is an extremely necessary moment if you go to the house with an overnight stay;
It is almost impossible to do without a hob in a country house, especially if electricity is periodically turned off in the village and there is no gas supply;
Also an important factor is the fuel that is used for the stove. To save money, choose an omnivorous heating device that can be melted with various options - brushwood, coal, firewood or household waste;
It is desirable that the furnace has the ability to mount a hot water register;
The simplicity of the design of the heater allows you to fold and install it on your own, which saves a tidy sum, because the services of masters in this regard are not cheap;
An important point is the aesthetic appeal, because with the help of the device you can transform the room, or add some kind of gray spot to the overall design.

Brick ovens

A small brick oven for summer cottages is used quite often.

But when installing, you will need to consider the following points:

The stove can be installed in such a way that it will distribute heat to several rooms without heating circuits. If the furnace was brought out correctly and the valve was installed, it is considered fireproof, but for this building it will be necessary to create a strong foundation that will be isolated from the foundation of the walls. This is a bathroom condition, if you do not comply with it, then the masonry may lose its integrity, because when the foundation of the house shrinks, it can begin to pull the base of the furnace;

Attention: Do not forget that such furnaces do not like long downtime and dampness, therefore, in order for heat transfer to be maximum after a period when it has not been used, several drying furnaces must be carried out without significant loads. In each of them we gradually increase the amount of fuel - this process is usually called acceleration.

It is precisely because the brick is afraid of dampness that such stoves are mounted in the country house only if they live in the house most of the time and there is the possibility of a firebox;
Residents of private houses consider only those buildings that are made of brick useful and real. At the same time, heating devices made from other materials are not recognized at all. In fact, such a stove will give the room a special coziness and a unique atmosphere. And more importantly, they are multifunctional. Professionals in the furnace business have developed a huge number of different models from which you can choose for a specific option.

Installation of a small oven

A small do-it-yourself brick oven is installed without any problems.

There are two options here:

First option, you are just making a furnace with a foundation. Then the price of the building will increase, but it will be a rather heat-intensive structure;
Second option, this is if you do not have enough funds and you do not have the skills. Then it is quite possible to install a metal furnace and, to increase the heat capacity, simply overlay it with bricks.

Attention: In the first option, your building will take up more space, and the heat transfer will be higher.

Materials that will be required for the work

You will need:

Twenty liters of clay mortar;
boards;
About sixty bricks;
Blower door;
Cast iron plate;
Furnace door;
Lattice;
Chamotte brick.

The size of a small stove is 0.4 m2 and is made of brick, which is laid on edge or flat. This type of oven perfectly retains and distributes heat.

The design is quite simple, because the mini-oven does not weigh too much and the foundation is not a prerequisite. The floor should be made of thick and durable boards that are well fixed.

Such a stove on its own is an alternative to a potbelly stove, but it has a more functional ability and a heating part, in which a cooking part is provided. She also plays the role of a fireplace. Such a furnace is being built without any problems and during the day.

At the very beginning, it is necessary to melt the stove with paper and wood chips, but do not take logs, because sharp temperature changes can cause cracks in the solution. This will further lead to smoke or improper air movement.

Before starting the oven, it is necessary that it dries properly. Usually this takes about a week.

Masonry mix

Everything can be done by hand. Then the price will be much lower. In masonry, it is quite possible to use several compositions. What to choose is up to you.

So:

For laying bricks, clay-sand, cement mortar is used. For example, screening instead of sand for the mixture is used to fill the foundation, and a mixture of cement and sand is used for one or more rows of masonry. If for the grade of cement M400 sand is added ¼, then for the screed, the screening must be mixed in a ratio of 1/6;
A solution of sand and clay is a little more difficult to prepare, because it will take much more time. In order for the clods of clay to break, they must be soaked in water in the evening, and those that remain in the same state should be kneaded with your hands so that there are no small lumps left;
The ratio of clay and sand is one to two or one to three - it all depends on the degree of fat content of the solution (this is checked with a trowel). The consistency is considered normal when the solution slides off the trowel without problems, leaving no traces, and in its density it should resemble mashed potatoes.

How do you make a stove

How to make a small brick oven now consider in detail. It has its own technology and procedure.

In order to properly build the stove yourself, you must follow the following recommendations:

Attention: Refractory material must be used for the furnace part. It will also withstand charcoal fires. As a solution, it is better to use a clay mixture. It is the most practical and durable.

We choose a suitable place for a mini-stove, and instead we put roofing material, film, glassine or hydrosol in it. The size of such material should be 78x53 centimeters;
On the litter (the thickness of which is about a centimeter) it is required to pour out and level the sand;
On top of it we lay the first row of twelve bricks, which do not need to be fastened together. After that, we align all the bricks in one level so that they are strictly in a horizontal position;
A small layer of clay is applied to the initial row, after which you can proceed with the installation of the blower door. It is imperative that it be wrapped in asbestos cord or cardboard. We fix it with a wire, after which you can safely proceed to laying the next one;
Fireclay bricks are used for the third row of a mini-stove, after which a grate is installed. It is mounted above the blower only when the third brick row is fully formed;
We make the following from bricks, but we lay them on the edge, in the middle of the chimney it is necessary to lay stands for internal partitions. The back wall of the stove is laid with a small protrusion outward and without the use of clay - they are called knockout bricks;
After that, install the furnace door. Again, before proceeding with the installation of the door, it must be wrapped with a cord in such a way that it can be opened from the bottom up. It is fixed with wire and fixed for a while with several stones. The first is placed behind, and the second - on top of the door;
Also, for the reliability of fastening, a wire is inserted into the holes, which is twisted and the ends are laid in order;

The fifth row is made flat, here we definitely check the contour of the last row. But the sixth row is laid with an edge. Then we rub the walls of a large stove with a wet rag and proceed to the next step;
On the 7th row, the brick is laid flat. Next, we expose a couple of bricks with an edge and proceed to the back wall;
When the time comes for the 8th row of the stove on your own, then make sure that it overlaps the furnace door, above which it will end. It was at this time that we installed a beveled brick over the firebox so that the flame was directed to the center of the stove burner;
We lay out the wetted asbestos cord in advance so that the space between the bricks and the slab is completely sealed. Since cast iron and clay have a different coefficient of thermal expansion, the slab is not laid on clay. After that, you can go to the ninth row, but here it needs to be shifted so that the door is kept open;
When working with the following, you will need to form a chimney that will expand at the back. To make this kind of oven, there is no need for a tube that expands at the top, as this type of tube will change the center of gravity. There are various schemes of chimneys. They are: horizontal, direct, countercurrent, combined, and so on. In our design, the stove should have a direct version;
When working with the next row, do not forget about inserting a plug, which is sealed with a cord (it is advisable to additionally coat it with clay);
Thus, the pipes will dock with the metal. If the flue goes to the side, then it must be blocked with several brick rows;
After that, we take out the brick from the fourth row and clean the pipe from the dirt that has accumulated during the construction work;
We whiten the oven. We protect the metal part of the furnace itself and its walls with a film. So that it does not turn yellow over time, milk and a small amount of blue should be added to the solution. Each piece of the stove must be processed in the most careful way, paying special attention to the joints of bricks and the cast-iron surface;
The gaps between the first row and the floor are carefully sealed. This is necessary so that the sand that was poured under the brick does not wake up;
After edging the structure, we nail the plinth, which will protect the stove from sand spills. We nail it flush and tight to cover all the cracks. Thanks to such actions, the stove will look even better;
As soon as you make the first fire with wood chips and paper, we leave all the doors and burners open for a few days so that everything dries well.

A small brick oven for a summer residence is made quite quickly and it will last a long time. The main thing is to look at the photo and choose the option you want. The instructions will not let you make mistakes.

The problem of heating country and country houses is associated with the lack of a central supply of coolant and gas. Many have already become disillusioned with metal potbelly stoves, but a small brick stove - built with their own hands - gives comfort and warmth, which cannot but rejoice.

Brick ovens for country houses

Advantages

In the last two or three decades, modern metal stoves have taken an undisputed monopoly in individual construction. This is caused by a number of factors:

Comparative cheapness compared to;
Ease of assembly and installation;
Short terms of installation of the heating device at the place of final operation;
High efficiency and wood savings declared by the manufacturer;
The apparent complexity of building a brick oven and the difficulties associated with finding a worthy specialist in this field, the fear of self-construction of such a monumental object;
No need for complex work with the roof when installing the chimney pipe;
Relative compactness, which is important for a country house;
An advertising campaign by manufacturers of metal furnaces, claiming their indisputable advantages.

However, once the owner of a metal appliance finds himself in a room equipped with a stone oven, his views change dramatically.

It is impossible to deny the fact that the heat produced by such an oven is incomparably more comfortable and pleasant. The room is easy to breathe, there is a pleasant smell, a special atmosphere and comfort.

Food cooked in a stone oven is also different. The special temperature regime, the taste of smoke and the effect of the oven give it a unique taste and aroma.

In addition, there is a lot of data on some of the healing properties of thermal radiation emanating from warm clay heated to 70 - 75 ° C. We will not go into the jungle of physics and biology, we note the fact itself.

So, the advantages of a brick oven, collected in a single list:

Huge heat capacity and inertia of the device. It is enough to heat such a furnace once, and it will give off heat to the room for a long time. Even in severe frosts, the number of fireboxes does not exceed two per day;
The stove does not overheat from the outside, and it is impossible to get burned on it, which is extremely important for families with small children;
The stove does not dry the air the way metal counterparts do;
Thermal radiation is much softer, not as aggressive and heavy as from steel and cast iron surfaces;
Less firewood consumption (controversial opinion, but many owners agree);
Incomparably longer service life;
The smallest brick oven creates more coziness and comfort than the largest metal one;
It easily allows you to heat large volumes of water, and if you install a coil or register, there will always be warm water;
In the oven and firebox, you can bake a large amount of bread and other flour products, as well as cook cereals and other dishes;
Even small brick stoves look great and decorate the interior, create inexplicable comfort and special surroundings in the room.

Advice! Any wood-fired heater is a potential source of danger, as it produces carbon monoxide. Therefore, you should not take on complex large furnaces, but small brick oven- a very real option.

Naturally, there is nothing ideal and absolute, so it is necessary to talk about the difficulties and disadvantages of stone heating appliances.

Flaws

Since we have listed the advantages of brick stoves, let's be fair and remember the disadvantages. We do not conduct an advertising campaign, so we are not afraid of objective assessments.

So, among the disadvantages of stone ovens, the following features can be listed:

A very laborious construction, especially for a person who does not have experience in the construction of such products;
A rather costly undertaking, especially if you involve an experienced stove-maker, the price of the efforts and skills of these guys is definitely high;
There is a risk of unsuccessful construction, and the alteration of a stone monolithic structure, as you understand, is not the easiest task;
The danger of operating a faulty or improperly built stove is associated with carbon monoxide poisoning, which can lead to very sad consequences;
Requires more space in the house than a metal counterpart, although today there are more and more projects of small stoves that practically level out this drawback;
High inertia is associated with a fairly long warm-up and kindling, so it may take several hours to warm up the room well.

Advice! If you use the dacha for rare raids for a day or two in the warm season, however, in the cold season too, then it makes no sense for you to start building a brick oven, since it will take three hours to warm up, and in the meantime you are already going back. A brick oven is needed for people who love countryside holidays and allow themselves to spend long winter weeks in the country.

This is where the question of the purpose of the furnace arises. Obviously, stoves are different, both in design, and in size, and in function.

Purpose of furnaces

Another important point is the correct choice of the configuration, design and purpose of the stove. Since we are talking about a dacha, we should proceed from the requirements of temporary suburban housing.

In general, there are four main types of ovens:

heating;
cooking;
bath;
Mixed.

Strictly speaking, bath stoves can be attributed to a specialized subspecies of heating appliances. But we will not delve into the intricacies of classification, since this activity is, in general, useless.

Let's just say that for a summer residence I would like to have exactly a mixed type - something like, since arranging a separate heater and stove is irrational from the point of view of saving space.

Therefore, it is possible to voice the requirements for a country brick oven based on the foregoing:

Simplicity of design, so that you can master the construction with your own hands;
Compact size, this is a summer house, not a castle or a residence;
Multifunctionality, that is, a mixed type oven with which you can cook food, heat water and heat the house.

Construction of a country stove made of bricks

We will need a clay-sand mortar, building bricks (double silicate brick M 150 will not work, we need clay), a trowel, a bucket, a mixing trough, a plumb line, a level, an asbestos cord, fireclay bricks, doors, valves and other furnace fittings, galvanized steel wire, a hammer with a pickaxe, a grinder with a disc for concrete.

The oven will take 0.4 m², while its weight will be insignificant, so you can do without a foundation. If your floor is weak, then it is better to make a screed for masonry.

So, laying a small country stove in steps:

On the place chosen for the stove we put roofing material or glassine 530 × 780 mm in size for waterproofing;
Pour sand one centimeter thick on top and level it;
According to scheme No. 1 (the figure at the beginning of the paragraph), we lay out the first row of bricks without fastening them, and level it with a level;

We apply a thin layer of clay mortar. We take a blower door, wrap it with a double layer of asbestos cord and fix it with twisted wire.
We lay out the second row of bricks.

We take fireclay bricks and lay out the third row. After its formation, we install a grate. We observe gaps for thermal expansion of materials up to 1 cm.

With a brick installed on the edge, we lay out the fourth row. Inside the chimney channel we make stands for the internal partition. We put the “knock-out bricks” of the back wall without clay with a slight protrusion outward.
We install the furnace door, pre-wrapped with asbestos. We fasten it with twisted wire and temporarily fix it with two bricks: we put one on the back of the priest, the other on him and the door on top.

We lay out the fifth row flat along the contour of the fourth, and the sixth on the edge. We wipe the chimney walls with a wet cloth.

We lay the seventh row flat out of three-fours (we cut off 3/4 of the whole brick with a grinder) for a bunch with the eighth row. The back wall is on edge again.

In the eighth row, we close the furnace door with two bricks above it. We install a beveled brick above the firebox to center the flame under the burner.

We put the ninth row with an offset back (small) to maintain the open door. Before laying, we lay out a wet asbestos cord to seal the joints of the brick and the hob.
With the tenth row, we begin the formation of a chimney, which will gradually expand back. We will make a pipe attached, so as not to shift the center of gravity of the structure, or a pipe made of light iron.

In the eleventh row, we lay the valve, seal it with an asbestos cord coated with clay.

Next comes a chimney in a quadruple, which is joined to a light metal pipe.

Now we take out the knockout bricks and clean the bottom of the chimney from debris.

We close the gap between the first row of bricks and the floor of the metal L-shaped sleeve and nail the plinth.
We whiten the oven or cover it with oven varnish, seal all joints between metal and brick. Metal parts can be painted with black refractory paint.

We make a test furnace with paper and small branches, then we give 2 weeks to dry.

As you can see, all the manipulations are not so difficult to do on your own. Material and labor costs are relatively small, the construction does not take up much space.

At the same time, we received a heating and cooking device that will perfectly heat a small country house, give your cooking a unique taste and aroma of smoke, and create a pleasant atmosphere and comfort.

Advice! If there is an opportunity to invite a person who is more or less experienced in the furnace business, at least as a consultant, by all means use it, since it is rather difficult to build stoves according to the book, it is better to see once.

Conclusion

Brick stoves are considered bulky, expensive and difficult to build. However, it is easy to see with concrete examples that these opinions are somewhat exaggerated, and it is possible to build an inexpensive compact cottage stove out of bricks, and on your own.

In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

A brick stove does not go out of fashion, despite all the innovations in the field of heating, such as gas boilers, buleryan, etc. Firstly, a brick stove breathes, and secondly, it can combine both heating and cooking functions. Some models are very economical both in use and in masonry.

The popularity of brick ovens

Unlike many heating methods, a brick oven tends to maintain optimal air humidity in the room. It's all about the porous structure of the brick, which, when heated, releases moisture vapor, and when cooled, absorbs it back.

Therefore, optimal humidity is maintained in houses with brick ovens, which means that such a stove can be safely called environmentally friendly. Needless to say, brick, clay and other stove materials are natural materials that are safe for health.

Thanks to the breathable structure, in a house with stove heating, you can already feel comfortable at 18-19 degrees, while with other types of heaters 20-22. This is a significant savings, but not all. The furnace is inherently omnivorous and can run on anything that can burn - coal, firewood, pellets etc.

Some types of stoves, such as Kuznetsov's hood-type brick stoves, give such efficiency indicators (80–95%) that they can compete with the most economical buleryans.

House layout

Initially, the plan of the house should take into account the stove - you can come up with many interesting masonry for different types of brick structures. Things to keep in mind when planning your home:

For a stove of 500 or more bricks, with its own chimney, an independent foundation must be laid, which should not be connected with the main foundation of the house - have a certain distance from it.
Some stoves, such as a low-rise, large-width hob with a heating shield capable of withstanding 250 kg / sq. m (according to the requirements of SNiP) can be installed without a foundation. It is only necessary to provide thermal insulation and strengthen the flooring with additional lags.
Ceiling beams should not touch the chimney, and the chimney should be half a meter or more higher than the roof ridge, and the distance between them should not be less than one and a half meters.

In fact, almost all stoves require from 1 thousand to 1.5 thousand bricks, so you need to count on a separate foundation. There may be some exceptions to the foundation plan in the case of a sectional strip foundation of the main building.

It is allowed to find a place in the plan of such a house and lay the foundation of the furnace at the intersection of the tapes - under the inner walls. But to other fragments of the main foundation should be no less than 1.2 m.

Do-it-yourself oven

Previously, it was in every home, but now the stove can be considered a highlight and national exotic. But this is a very convenient and functional thing that can combine heating, hobs, an oven and a warm bench, while having a beautiful design.

If you decorate the stove with tiled tiles or tiles, then the stove will turn into the center of the interior idea of the house. You can make such an oven with your own hands.

Orders - a detailed scheme of laying a brick oven

Orders of brick ovens can be obtained for free, and this is almost half the battle. After all, order is exact instruction to place each brick. The only thing you need is a little experience as a bricklayer. But who among those living in a private house has not encountered bricklaying at least once? Walls, sheds, braziers, fences ... now a stove.

In order for the house to be heated properly, it is necessary to make a calculation for a specific room, based on the heat transfer indicators of the planned furnace. The furnace must be of such power that it is possible to easily withstand the night until the next furnace.

It is very difficult to make such calculations on your own, but you can use data I.V. Kuznetsova, who calculated the average heat output per unit area of the furnace. So, an average stove of 1.5x1.5x2.5 m should be enough to heat an area of up to 100 square meters. m.

We choose the design of the furnace - Russian, blacksmith, Dutch or Swedish

When we have decided on the approximate dimensions of the furnace, you need to choose the necessary version of the furnace that you will lay. A large number of detailed diagrams of Russian stoves - from small to large can be found on the site. Kuznetsov's bell-type furnaces and the so-called Dutch or Swedish.

Kuznetsovka is famous for its special design, which allows warm and cold gases to move in such a way that the efficiency of the furnace sometimes reaches 90–95%. In addition, the almost complete absence of soot and, accordingly, minimal care for the stove. On the site of the author himself, you can find up to 150 schemes of different masonry options.

Also, “Swedes” are popular in our area, but sometimes it is called “Dutch”, although this is not entirely true. Since the Swede is independent heating and cooking stove, while the Dutch were used only as a heating supplement.

The choice of "Swede" is also good because it is a truly oven station wagon:

Food is cooked on it.
Heating.
Possibility of a built-in oven.

Consider how to make such an oven with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself Swede (Dutch) stove

If you are determined to make a Swede with your own hands, then you will need the following tools:

Materials:

ceramic brick;
fireclay brick;
masonry stove mortar (sold ready);
metal elements: grate, doors, valves, hobs, etc. (according to the model of the furnace);
for the foundation: cement, sand, roofing material.

Step-by-step description of the construction of the Swede

The orders and drawings of such a furnace, like any other, can be downloaded for free on the Internet, but you need to know the nuances for each row. So, let's start the description of the construction of the Swede.

Row 1 is most important row. Bricks must be laid in level, and the corners must be controlled with a special building square. The first row sets the correct position of all other rows in space. In front of the furnace there is a blower, so a three-quarter brick is used there. To make it more convenient to remove the ash, it is necessary to cut the brick in the direction of the chamber.
The 2nd row begins with the installation of the blower doors, then the entire second row is laid out.
3rd row to put in accordance with the order, and to achieve the correct blower, you need to chop bricks on both sides. On the third row, the height of the blower doors is reached.
The 4th row must be started from the left-hand layout and the first step is to install the door for cleaning, and the blower door is laid on top. To achieve the square shape of the ash pan, the bricks must be chipped to fit the hole.
The 5th row as a whole does not differ from the fourth, except for the narrower opening of the ash pan.
6th row starts involve refractory brick(fireclay), on the order it is marked with special shading. Before the grate, the brick is chipped off so that it is more convenient to lay the fuel on the grate. The lattice itself should rest on the bricks of the fifth row.

It must be remembered to make a distance of 1–1.5 cm between the masonry of the sixth row and the grate. Ash or sand is placed in this void, it serves as a compensator when expanding the metal grating;

Here we install a large door for the cooking chamber, which will rest on the bricks of the previous row, then the cooking chamber also combines the oven. Such a door can be made as a frame with a damper that is inserted into it;

Conclusion

Having decided on the brick oven scheme, you can calculate the material according to the masonry ordering scheme. At the same time, the diagrams indicate where it is necessary to use ceramic bricks, and where - refractory (fireclay). Also in the same drawing, inclusions of all metal are indicated.

How much would such a stove cost if ordered from a stove maker? A good stove-maker charges a lot of money for his services, but you don't need a bad stove-maker. Why not try to make it yourself, because the Internet is full of detailed diagrams, drawings and practical advice on masonry.

Despite the modern abundance of heating and kitchen equipment, many owners cannot imagine a private house without a stove - and this is absolutely correct. Even if it is planned to create an autonomous heating system, then the stove will also be useful. For example, in order to save money in the spring or autumn, when full-fledged heating is no longer needed, but you don’t want to breed excessive dampness in the house either. By heating the stove once a day or every two days, the rooms can maintain an optimal balance of humidity and heat.

Folding the oven with your own hands, a step-by-step instruction of which has intricate configurations, will be quite difficult for a beginner. Therefore, if there is no experience in the furnace business, then it is better to choose an affordable ordering option that will be easy to figure out.

When choosing a model, it is necessary to take into account not only the simplicity of the circuit, but also the heat transfer and functionality of the furnace, since there are furnaces that do not provide all the functions. Heat transfer is selected depending on the area that the heating structure should heat.

There are a lot of models of stoves, since experienced stove-makers, working on one of them, make their own adjustments to its design, and thanks to this, new and new options for the heater appear. And to stop at one of the types of furnaces, you need to know what they are in terms of functionality.

Prices for fireclay bricks for laying furnaces

fireclay brick

Types of brick ovens

There are T Three main types are heating and cooking, cooking and simply heating without additional built-in elements.

A heating and cooking stove can have not only a hob, but an oven and a tank for heating water, as well as a drying niche. In addition, such a structure is able to heat one or two rooms of a certain area.

Such stoves are often built into the wall, turning the hob and firebox towards the kitchen, and the back wall into the living room. Thus, the stove performs a triple function - it works as a partition, food is cooked on it, and it provides dry heat to the bedroom or living room.

work only for heating, and most often have a compact size. Such a stove is installed precisely in order to maintain a balance of moisture and heat in the house in autumn or spring, when it is too early to turn on independent heating or have not yet turned on the central one.

It is good to install such an oven, for example, in the country, if there is a device on which you can cook food. If the power supply in the holiday village is often turned off, then it is better to choose a building with a hob for installation.

The cooking version of the stove can also serve for heating, if you need to heat a small area. The device is perfect for a country house or for a small building for permanent residence.

With such a stove and a supply of firewood, you can not worry that the house will be cold and damp, and the family will be left without dinner or hot tea when the electricity or gas is turned off.

It should be noted that any type of furnace can be compact or massive. The choice of the size of the furnace structure depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe house or room, as well as the place that is allocated for construction.

Choosing a place to install the oven

When choosing a place for the construction of a furnace, it is necessary to provide for the nuances that are important not only for creating comfortable operating conditions, but also for reasons of fire safety. It is especially important to consider location stoves in an already built house, since the chimney pipe should not stumble upon the attic floor beams or roof rafters during its construction.

The stove is installed at the inner load-bearing wall, in the middle of the room, or built into the wall located inside the house.

It is not recommended to build a furnace near an external wall, as it will quickly cool down, and the efficiency of its use will be significantly reduced.
In the middle of a large room, the stove is installed if it is necessary to divide the room into two zones. Moreover, with a beautiful decorative finish, it will become a decoration of the house and can become one of the elements for the interior that will emphasize a certain style.
When building a stove into a partition between rooms, it is imperative to provide for its isolation from combustible wall materials using heat-resistant asbestos sheets or special drywall.
The space allocated for the stove should be 120 ÷ 150 mm larger than its base in each direction, since the perimeter of the foundation always slightly exceeds the size of the stove.
In order to make it easier to determine the size, you need to choose a model to which the ordering scheme is attached.

When the model is selected and the installation site is determined, you can proceed to the acquisition of materials and preparation of all necessary tools. The quantity and range of materials for each of the models is selected individually, but the tools used in masonry are always the same.

Tools to get the job done

For the process of building a furnace, you will need the following fixtures and tools:

A) A pickaxe is used for hewing and splitting bricks.

B) The furnace hammer has the same functions as the pick, but, in addition, it is convenient for them to remove the dried mortar that has protruded beyond the masonry.

C) The rule is used to level the concrete on the foundation surface. Often it is made independently from a perfectly flat planed board.

D) A wooden spatula is used for grinding and mixing the clay solution.

E) The level is a necessary tool, as it will help to maintain the evenness of the rows, both in the horizontal and vertical direction.

E) A brush of bast is used to remove sand and hardened mortar from the internal surfaces of the furnace.

G) Pliers are used to cut off and bend steel wire when installing and fixing cast iron structural elements.

H) Lead scriber is used for marking when decorating the stove with tiles.

I) Stukalce - a piece of pipe used to fit tiles.

K) Scriber-rod for markings.

K) The rasp is used to grind lumps and remove sagging on the finished masonry.

M) The construction angle is necessary for deriving internal and external corners by 90 degrees.

H) A plumb bob is used to check the verticality of the walls.

A) A rubber mallet is used for tapping bricks laid in a row.

P) A chisel is needed for parsing old masonry and splitting bricks.

P) Trowels or trowels are used to remove excess mortar and apply it to the rows of bricks during masonry.

C) Jointing will be needed if the oven is not lined with finishing material, and the seams between the rows are neatly drawn.

In addition, you will need two containers for mortar and water, as well as a sieve for sand, if the solution is made independently.

The laying of the upper rows will be easier if there are "goats"

For the convenience of carrying out work, you need to have scaffolds, which are called “goats” in another way. It is convenient to stand on them, carrying out masonry at a height, especially since the size of the working platform provides a place for installing a container with a solution.

Arrangement of the foundation for the furnace

The foundation for the furnace is usually laid together with the general foundation for the entire structure, but they should not be interconnected, since one of them may damage the other if deformed or shrinkage.
If the stove is being built in a house already built on a strip or column foundation, which has a wooden floor, then the coating will have to be opened and the base under the stove built from the ground.
If a compact model of the furnace is chosen, and a slab foundation is arranged under the house, then the heating structure can be erected directly on itby making a waterproofing gasket.

If the foundation sun still, you will have to equip it from scratch, you need to remember that it must have the same shape as the base of the furnace, but protrude beyond it by 120 ÷ 150 mm in each direction.

on wooden semi marked out the contour of the foundation, a part of the boardwalk is sawn according to the markings.
Further, a pit of the required size is dug in the underground soil, with a depth of 450 ÷ 500 mm.
The soil at the bottom of the pit is well compacted, and a sand bed is made on it, which is moistened with water and also compacted to a thickness of 80 ÷ 100 mm.

Pit under the furnace foundation with a sand and gravel "cushion"

After that, roofing material can be laid around the perimeter of the pit, which will perform the function of waterproofing and formwork, if it is temporarily reinforced with boards or bricks. After the concrete mortar has hardened, the formwork is removed from the foundation.

Instead of roofing felt, formwork made of boards covered from the inside with a polyethylene sheet can be used.

It should be noted right away that it is better if the concrete base for the furnace rises 70 ÷ 100 mm above the floor. In this way, bricks can be saved and the joining of the floor surface and the side walls of the foundation can be simplified.

A layer of crushed stone of the same thickness is poured on top of the sand and is also well compacted.
The next step is to install a reinforcing grate made of metal wire or a finished mesh at the bottom of the pit. The elements of the lattice are interconnected by means of a twist of wire.

Foundation reinforcement - option

The first layer of mortar is poured into the prepared pit. It may consist of gravel, sand and cement— 1:2:1 or gravel and cement 3:1. This layer should take up approximately ⅓ of the space to be filled.
After pouring the first layer, immediately knead and pour the second, consisting of sand and cement in proportions of 3: 1.

The second layer is poured to such a height that 50 mm remain to the top, which will be required for the upper leveling layer of the foundation.

If necessary, for the upper layer of concrete, the formwork can be expanded, and then a reinforcing mesh with cells of 70 ÷ 80 mm can be laid on top of the poured mortar.

Then the last top layer of the solution is poured and leveled using the rule.

The foundation is left for the maturation of concrete for 27÷30 days. It is advisable to moisten it daily with water and then cover it with plastic wrap - this will help make the concrete more monolithic and durable.

On the finished foundation, after removing the formwork, two or three layers of roofing material are laid, which will protect the brickwork of the furnace from capillary moisture coming from the ground or from the underground.

After that, you can proceed to the main work - laying the furnace.

A few recommendations for masonry work

Before starting laying bricks on the mortar, the whole structure rises dry from the brick, but each of the rows must be laid out strictly in accordance with the ordering scheme.

Experienced stove-makers advise dry pre-laying to all craftsmen who take up the construction of a stove for the first time. This event is necessary in order to understand the location of all internal channels and not make gross mistakes when fitting bricks in each of the rows.

For dry laying, you need to stock up on wooden slats, which will determine the thickness of the seam between the bricks. Usually their thickness is 5-7 mm. The same rail will need to be used for the main masonry, already carried out with a solution. Such a "calibration" of the thickness of the seam is especially necessary if the laying is done "for jointing", and must be flawless.

This process is carried out slowly, thoughtfully, since it is very important to understand how the smoke will be removed from the furnace, and how it will enter the chimney.

Having lifted the structure dry before laying the pipe, it is carefully dismantled. If at the same time the bricks were adjusted to size, then each row can be folded into a separate pile by marking the number of the row and the place in it on the bricks with a marker.
Performing the main masonry, each of the rows is also first laid out dry, and then, after carefully fitting all the details, it is mounted on the mortar.
When the main masonry is done, two measuring rails are laid on the edges of the previous row to maintain the exact thickness of the seam. Then the solution is applied with a layer of 10 ÷ 12 mm. A brick is laid on top of the mortar, pressed, and, if necessary, tapped with a rubber mallet until the brick rests against the measuring rail. The excess protruding solution is selected with a trowel.

The slats are pulled out of the masonry after the installation of the third ÷ fourth row above them, and then used again. Therefore, you need to prepare several pairs of these auxiliary elements.
After pulling out the slats, the seams are carefully filled with mortar and immediately “embroidered”.
When laying on the mortar, each of the rows is checked using the building level for compliance with the horizontal and vertical planes.

Compliance with these nuances will help simplify the process of building any furnace, avoid "fatal" errors that may lead to the need to redo all the work.

Heating and cooking oven with a drying chamber designed by Yu. Proskurin

As mentioned above, there are a large number of different models of furnaces. This publication will consider one of the compact and functional options that can be installed in a small house, as it does not take up much space, but is able to heat a room of 16 ÷ 17 m².

The design of Yu. Proskurin's oven is a double-turn heating and cooking option, equipped with a single-burner stove and a drying chamber designed for drying vegetables and fruits, medicinal herbs, mushrooms, etc.

If desired, an oven box of a suitable size can be installed in the niche of the drying chamber.

The furnace has dimensions (excluding the height of the chimney) 750 × 630 × 2070 mm. Its heat transfer is 1700 kcal/h. The design provides for two operating modes - summer and winter, which is very important both for fuel economy and for the ability to heat the stove and cook food, without melting all constructions in the summer.

List of required materials

In order to build such a heating structure, you will need the following materials:

Name of materials and elements	Quantity (piece)	Element dimensions (mm)
Red brick M-200 (excluding pipe laying)	281 to 285	-
Fireclay bricks refractory grade Sh-8	82-85	-
Furnace door	1	210×250
Doors for cleaning channels	2	140×140
Blower door	1	140×250
Summer damper for chimney	1	130×130
Firebox valve	1	130×130
Stove valve	1	130×130
grate	1	200×300
Single burner hob	1	410×340
steel strip	1	40×260×5
	1	40×350×5
	1	40×360×5
steel corner	1	40×40×635
	3	40×40×510
	4	40×40×350
roofing iron	1	380×310
Pre-furnace metal sheet	1	500×700

In addition, clay, sand, cement, crushed stone, gravel, marl and an oven box are required for work, if decided, install an oven instead of a drying niche.

Scheme-ordering the construction of a furnace designed by Yu. Proskurin

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The first row is laid out in a continuous plane, observing the location of the bricks. It is very important to lay this row perfectly evenly in all respects, since the quality of the masonry of the entire structure will depend on it.
	In the second row, a blower (ash) chamber and the base of two vertical channels are formed. On the same row, the doors of the blower and cleaning chambers are installed.
	On the metal doors there are special ears, into which pieces of steel wire are threaded and twisted - they will then be embedded in the seams between the bricks. Temporarily, until they are completely fixed, the doors are supported by bricks on one or both sides.
	On the third row, the formation of the blower chamber and the lower part of the chamber of vertical channels continues. At the same time, there is a fixing on both sides of the installed doors.
	On the fourth row, the doors of the blower and cleaning chambers are completely covered with bricks. The common chamber of the vertical channels is divided in two, so instead of one large hole, two are formed, having a length of ⅔ of a brick and a width of half a brick.
	The fifth row is fully laid out with fireclay bricks. Above the ash chamber, a hole is formed with a seat for the grate. To do this, a part of the brick is cut out, from the side with which it should be turned to the hole above the blower chamber.
	The grate is mounted on the same row. It is planted on a clay solution or laid freely, without a solution. There should be a distance of 4-5 mm between it and the brick.
	On the sixth row, the formation of the combustion chamber and vertical channels continues.
	In addition, a furnace door is installed on the same row, the frame of which must be wrapped or overlaid with asbestos before installation, which, when the metal is heated, will allow it to expand without stress and damage.
	The seventh and eighth rows are laid out according to the order, the formation of the firebox and vertical channels continues on them.
	On the ninth row, the furnace door is covered with bricks. Moreover, in order to remove the load from the ceiling from the door, the side and third bricks from the edge are ground off on one side, and a brick is installed between them, hewn on both sides.
	On the tenth row, the fuel chamber and the first vertical channel are combined - this is done so that hot smoke from the furnace is directed precisely into this created hole. For a smooth flow of smoke, the protruding corner of the solid brick enclosing the second vertical channel is cut off.
	On the eleventh row, the masonry follows the scheme, except that cutouts are made on the edges of the bricks framing the combustion chamber, which will form a recess for mounting a single-burner hob.
	Then, on the same row, asbestos strips are laid on the cuts made on the bricks, and the slab panel is mounted on them. From the side of the formation of the cooking niche, a steel corner is installed.
	The 12th row is laid out from red brick, and in the future all the masonry comes from it. Two vertical channels are again formed, and a niche is being formed around the hob.
	The 13th row is laid according to the scheme, but in the front of the first vertical channel a place is formed for installing the summer-winter valve. After that, a valve is mounted on a clay-sand mortar.
	From the 14th to the 17th row, the laying is carried out according to the same principle - a cooking niche and channels are formed.
	On the 18th row, steel corners overlap the cooking niche. One of them is mounted on the edge of the niche, the second - at a distance of a brick from the first, and the third is pressed against the second with the back side. This is done in order to make it convenient to carry out the laying of the next row.
	On the 19th row, the cooking niche is completely covered, with the exception of the formation of an opening for the steam exhaust channel and a place for installing a valve. To do this, cutouts are made on the bricks into which the valve is mounted.
	20 row is laid out according to the scheme. The formation of two vertical channels and a steam exhaust hole continues on it. Moreover, if you look closely, you can see that one of the bricks forming the first vertical channel is cramped.
	On the 21st row, the first vertical channel and the steam exhaust channel are combined with the help of the hollow space left. In this row, almost all bricks are placed only along the walls of the perimeter of the structure. Only the second vertical channel is protected.
	In the same row, the resulting cavity is covered with metal strips, which are laid according to the scheme shown in the figure.
	Further, a sheet of roofing iron is laid on the steel strips, with the help of which a chimney hole is organized, located on the opposite side from the steam exhaust hole.
	On the 22nd row, laying is done on top of the roofing sheet. A hole for the chimney and two holes for vertical channels are left. In the place where the drying niche will be formed, a piece of a corner is laid, which will protect the brick on the edge of the chamber from damage and make the edge of the niche more accurate.
	23rd row - a drying chamber is formed, and its back wall is made of bricks installed on its side. It will isolate the chamber from the opening of the chimney channel.
	On the 24th row, the walls of the drying chamber, the chimney and two vertical channels are formed.
	25 row - work continues according to the scheme. The second brick of the rear wall of the chamber is installed in the same way as the first.
	On the 26th row, preparations are underway to combine two vertical channels, so the inner bricks in both holes are grinded at a slight angle.
	27 row - the first and second channels are combined with masonry. For them, a common cleaning door is installed. The rest of the work goes according to the scheme.
	On the 28th row, the drying chamber is covered with three pieces of corners according to the same principle as the overlapping of the cooking niche was done. The vertical channels are combined into one wide one, and the cleaning door is fixed with side bricks.
	On the 29th row, the drying chamber and vertical channels are completely blocked. A hole in the chimney channel is left, which is lined with bricks with cut out mounting grooves for the chimney valve. After laying the row, a frame with a valve is installed on the clay-sand mortar.
	On the 30th row, the entire surface of the furnace is completely covered. Only the chimney hole is left, which should be half a brick in size.
	31-32 row - the formation of the chimney begins.

This figure shows the oven in section. The diagram clearly shows all the internal channels through which heated air will circulate.