The installation of the Finnish front door can be done independently, in this video the installation technology is quite clearly presented. You can additionally read the text version. You can also order delivery and installation of the door from us.
Okosyachka (shedding) for installing a door in a wooden house or a log house from a bar or log
Installation of doors and windows in a wooden house differs significantly from installation in houses built of stone materials and frame houses. Everyone knows the phenomenon of shrinkage in a wooden house made of timber or logs. To compensate for the negative effects of this phenomenon, before installing the door or window, an additional wooden frame is installed in the opening, the so-called (cage, casing or jamb). The casing is not rigidly fixed to the frame structure, which allows the window or door to "slide" in the opening, thus compensating for the shrinkage deformations of the wooden walls. More details in this video. Our company offers you the correct installation of doors in wooden houses and log cabins in compliance with this technology
Starting in 2019, the EU countries are switching to residential construction standards, according to which the level of thermal insulation of private and multi-storey buildings being erected cannot be lower than the passive class (energy consumption for heating should not exceed 15 kWh / (m² year)). Thermal resistance of windows and doors within this class - not less than 0.9 (m² K) / W. In the climatic conditions of Northern Europe and the middle zone of the Russian Federation, only Finnish entrance doors meet these requirements. However, in domestic private housing construction, these products have been well-deservedly respected for over 20 years, regardless of any foreign standards.
Our developers use the term "thermal break doors". What does this mean? For an explanation, let's take a short excursion into architecture and design.
A good architectural solution for thermal cut-off is to equip a vestibule with an internal door that duplicates the entrance door. However, why spend money on two doors instead of one and lose square meters on arranging a vestibule, if everything can be solved differently?
There are two types of heat loss associated with the entrance doors - heat transfer and convection. In the first case, energy saving is achieved by using heat insulators, in the second - by using high-quality seals that eliminate air leaks through the gaps. The design of the door leaf on the principle of a sandwich panel eliminates the issue of increased heat transfer over the area. At the same time, the absence of an all-metal shell excludes the formation of a perimetric cold bridge. After all, even a "classic" door, well insulated inside, freezes through for this reason.
What is a thermal break in simple words: when you remove a pan with metal handles from the stove, so as not to burn yourself, take an oven mitt. So the potholder will be a thermal break.
In door blocks, the thermal insulation material is divided into several layers. The transitions between the layers of insulation and will act as a thermal break.
In addition to direct heat loss in cold winter conditions, all-metal doors can also cause aesthetic inconvenience: frost on the canvas and a puddle of condensation at the threshold in the hallway does not look very "cozy" ... Finnish entrance doors lack all these drawbacks. Along with the insulated canvas, the thermal break in them is also provided by the structural features of the box.
Other benefits of passive house doors
Like most Scandinavian products, warm wooden doors are positioned not only in terms of energy saving, but also in terms of environmental friendliness. The principle of zero gas emissions is maintained for all components - from the frame and the filling to the cladding and the type of emulsion topcoat.
The consumer chooses between flat painted or aluminum surfaces, as well as bas-reliefs and milling of various depths and styles. Glass inserts complement the aesthetic palette. Speaking of glass: as in energy-saving windows, warm Finnish doors use a double-glazed unit with k-glass and argon-filled chambers.
Finnish warm doors with double-glazed windows
Products of the "arctic" type (as the doors of this category are also called) surpass ordinary wooden entrance modules in strength, reliability, durability and heat saving. They are not afraid of any climatic zones and the vagaries of the weather. Despite the "northern" design, the parameters of the product even in southern conditions improve the microclimate of the house, preventing the penetration of heat into the hallway and living room.
These doors differ favorably from armored metal doors not only in that they are warmer. The weight of the product is also important. With the same quality of awnings, Finnish arctic doors open and close more easily. Their canvases do not warp during prolonged use.
Finnish manufacturers are distinguished by a wide range of design developments. Why is a wide variety of entrance doors important? The fact is that the interior of a northern European house implies the absence of a hallway. The entrance group is located in the living room. Therefore, the entrance from the street and the passages to the rooms are simultaneously in the field of view. Therefore, the product should be in harmony not only with the exterior of the house, but also with the general style of the interior, if possible matching the design with the interior doors.
Typical complete set of products in the Arctic category
Typically, the door leaf consists of a 60 mm thick sandwich. Its layers are:
- Outside, HDF sheets coated with weather resistant paint.
- Aluminum sheet. Has the function of waterproofing and giving the canvas additional rigidity.
- Frame made of laminated veneer lumber (does not work in the harshest climatic conditions).
- A layer of extruded polystyrene foam with a density of 200 kg / m³.
- Door lock type Multihela 4565, cylinder TrioVing Assa Abloy.
The box and threshold are made of hardwood. Section 115 × 42 mm. There is an aluminum trim on the threshold. It is the rejection of the all-aluminum threshold and its replacement with a solid wood sill that provides the lower thermal break, which is ignored in traditional designs of entrance door frames. An elastic sealing contour is made both along the perimeter of the web and from the receiving part of the box.
The size range of canvases is based on a multiplicity of 100 mm in width and 10 mm in height. The main dimensions are 900 × 2100 and 1000 × 2100. Finnish companies also accept orders for the production of doors for non-standard openings. However, with the competent organization of construction and repair processes, the probability of such a need is zero, especially if we take into account the possibility of filling the opening due to side transoms (narrow additional sashes).
You should be careful when buying Finnish doors in domestic building supermarkets. To reduce the price, sometimes the original canvases are completed with Russian, Belarusian or Chinese boxes without a lower thermal break and sometimes without a seal .
You should also not order Finnish doors with reinstallation of locks of a different design. It is better to use the original ones, since, among all their other advantages, they provide adjustment of the closing density. And this is important for the adjustment of the sealing contours.
The main manufacturers of Finnish doors
We choose warm Finnish doors from trusted manufacturers
The first to enter the domestic market were the products of the Fenestra brand (since 2014 it has been produced under the Kaski brand). Some Finnish models, for example Fenestra ST2000, are jokingly called “people's Russian doors” by developers and sellers because of the stable (more than 20 years!) Demand for them. In addition to Kaski, the brands EDUX and Jeld-Wen have earned the trust of consumers. The average price tag for their products is slightly lower than that of Kaski, with comparable design and quality. Jeld-Wen doors use veneer glued on HDF sheets. This is the only design difference from the Kaski and EDUX models.
In addition to the standard 60 mm thickness, Kaski also has a thermo category with 86 mm sheet. The meaning of this modification is to increase the thickness of the expanded polystyrene insert. Thermo doors are significantly more expensive than the basic 60 mm models. Another feature of the brand is that high-tech and modern options are presented in an impressive number of designs. However, the model lines of all the mentioned manufacturers provide solutions for the main types of individual development - archaic stone houses, log cabins in the style of modern country minimalism, cottages with Victorian clinker brick cladding and laconic constructivist concrete "cubes".
Providing thermal break during installation
Correct installation of arctic entrance wooden doors has some features associated with the exclusion of cold bridges. First, the horizontalness of the floor surface in the opening is checked and, if necessary, leveled with a wooden strip, in width less than the thickness of the door frame. The gap under the strip is carefully foamed (after installing the door). A layer of elastic material with insulating and waterproofing properties is laid on the bar. Mineral wool impregnated with paraffins is usually used.
The box is installed using the traditional method. The only remark concerns the uniformity of the width of the mounting slots between the box and the rough opening: you should try so that the box does not rest on the opening anywhere, and the slot foams around the entire perimeter without breaks.
Wanting to install an interior door with their own hands, many overestimate their strength. Without the necessary tools and certain skills in working with the material, you can hopelessly ruin an expensive product. If the decision is made, you must first familiarize yourself with the installation rules and scrupulously follow the recommendations of professionals.
Do-it-yourself installation of interior doors: step-by-step instructions
The process of installing doors between rooms with your own hands begins with performing certain actions. Let's describe step by step the stages of the work performed:
- Remove the old door from its hinges, then tear off the cash. You can use a hammer and a wide chisel or a small hatchet for this. Using a bent crowbar, you should dismantle the old box.
- Then you need to prepare an opening for the door to be installed. If its dimensions fit, everything remains as it was. If you need to increase the opening, you should use a punch. The width of the opening must exceed the dimensions of the door leaf by 10 cm, and the height by 5 cm.
- Use a clean and level surface to fit the box. First, the upper horizontal part is fitted. You can calculate its length by adding to the width of the doors twice the thickness of the vertical frame pillars and 6 mm as the required gap to ensure the free movement of the door leaf. Then you need to adjust the height of the uprights. It should be borne in mind that for a door without a threshold, the length should be increased by 10 mm. Another 3 mm must be left in the upper gap.
- After that, they begin to cut into the canvas and the hinge box. To do this, grooves must be hollowed out at a distance of 200 mm from the edges of the canvas. The inset of loops begins with their attachment to the canvas to mark the boundaries of the recesses. The work must be done with a milling cutter or chisel. It is advisable to treat the resulting grooves with varnish, otherwise the tree will dry out over time. Then it is required to put a loop in the prepared bed and outline the places for fastening the screws. It is best to pre-drill them using a drill bit slightly smaller than the thickness of the screw. After that, you can screw the hinges with screws, while their halves with a ledge are attached to the box, and those with a hole - to the door.
- Now you can finally assemble the box by connecting its parts at a 45 ° angle. You can fasten the box with self-tapping screws.
- Lift the box carefully and begin installing it inside the opening. Carefully check the verticality of the product with the level, the perpendicularity of its components and the horizontalness of the bar from above. The gaps formed in the opening should be eliminated using wooden wedges, and then polyurethane foam.
- After installing the box, it must be fixed with dowels.
Here are the steps to follow. The video "How to install an interior door with your own hands" will help you finally understand all the details:
Installation of sliding interior doors
There are many different options for sliding doors. They differ in material, appearance, and other characteristics, although the principle of operation and design remain unchanged. Any such system has a canvas, rollers and guides.
Important: Do-it-yourself installation of sliding interior doors is carried out in different ways, it all depends on the purpose for which the sliding door is mounted. It is usually installed to save space, since it frees up the space that is needed to open the swing door.
Schematically, the installation of the structure is divided into the following stages:
- Installation of guides.
- Fastening holders and fittings to the door leaf.
- Installation of doors.
- Installation of door closers and limiters.
- Fastening of extensions and trims.
- Final adjustment.
A detailed installation of sliding interior doors with your own hands is shown in the video:
Installation of interior doors with extensions
If the thickness of the existing opening exceeds the width of the box, then to add aesthetics, you have to use extensions, fixing them directly to the block. The advantage of such components is the uniformity of all structural elements, quick installation. Before fastening, it is necessary to determine the dimensions of the extensions. To do this, measure the required strip width by inserting a box into the opening and measuring the open width of the opening.
Important: Doors can be cut to size with a circular saw.
To fix the add-on, it is necessary to screw the mounting strips on the back of it and connect them to the box.
It is enough to use three fasteners on each element. Then you should install a box with an extension in the opening and fix it. After that, you need to go through all the cracks with professional foam.
Two ways to install do-it-yourself interior door accessories on video:
Installation of butterfly hinges
Overhead hinges called "Butterflies" - do not need a tie-in, they are easy to install. It is enough just to attach the product to the door end and to the box, screw it with self-tapping screws so that the door is ready for use.
Let's take a closer look at this process:
- We apply a hinge to the door end, keeping a distance of 20 cm from the edge.
- We mark with an awl the points where it is required to make holes for the screws.
- The inside of the hinge is attached to the door and the outside to the frame.
- We drill according to the hole marks.
- We fasten the hinges.
Installing the lock and handles in the door leaf
To install a lock in an interior door with your own hands, you should follow these procedures:
- Measure 90 cm from the floor, attach the lock case to the obtained point.
- Outline the place where the handles will be attached.
- Drill a through hole in the place where the handles are attached.
- Mark the boundaries of the lock mechanism niche on the door end, then drill a recess under it with a feather drill.
- Check the depth, for which insert the lock into the recess. Then make a small niche with a chisel, into which the fastening strip of the lock mechanism will enter.
- Treat all grooves with varnish.
- Fasten the lock with screws and attach the handles to it.
- Embed the counterpart of the lock mechanism in the same way.
Fasteners for cash machines
The installation work on the installation of doors between the rooms is being completed with fasteners for cash-boxes. This process is straightforward.
Sooner or later, you have to change the interior doors. The procedure is not so complicated that it is imperative to hire a specialist. If you have at least some skills in handling a saw, a level and a plumb line, you can tighten a few screws - do it yourself. When replacing, before installing the interior door, the old one must be dismantled. And here, too, there are features. All the intricacies - in a photo and video with detailed instructions.
Interior doors are made from different materials. Moreover, the material of both the door leaf and the frame differs. The door leaf is:
- From fiberboard. These are the cheapest doors. They represent a wooden frame, to which laminated fiberboard is attached. They are characterized by low sound insulation, are afraid of high humidity, and are easily damaged.
- Made of MDF. They cost much more, but the quality characteristics are much higher. They are better in sound insulation, are not afraid of moisture, stronger and more durable.
- Wood. The most expensive doors. They are made from different types of wood - from pine to oak or more exotic species.
Door frames are made of the same materials. The worst choice is fiberboard boxes, they even bend under their own weight, and hanging the door leaf on them is sheer flour. So try to take either MDF or wood. There is one more material: laminated wood. The good thing is that you do not need to process and paint, but the service life depends on the quality of the film.
Dimensions and equipment
Interior doors are available in standard sizes, it is a pity that the standards differ in different countries. For example, in our country, swing doors are made with a width of 600 - 900 mm with a step of 100 mm. In some EU countries, the norms are the same - in Germany, Italy and Spain. Others are standard in France. Here the narrowest doors are 690 mm and further with a step of 100 mm.
Is the difference so important? If you only want to change the door leaf without a box, then it is important - you have to choose from your segment or completely change it together with the box. Interior doors of the same standard as in our country, the choice is much greater, as in France - several times less.
How wide the door is needed depends on where you are going to put them. In terms of standards, the following values \u200b\u200bare recommended:
- in a living room, width from 60 to 120 cm, height 2 m;
- bathroom - width from 60 cm, height 1.9-2 m;
- in the kitchen, the width of the door leaf is at least 70 cm, the height is 2 m.
If, when replacing the door, it is decided to make the opening larger / smaller, you do not need permission for this, but you must stay within the limits specified for each room.
How do you determine which door width to buy? Measure the door leaf you have and you will know what you need. If there are no doors, find the narrowest point in the opening, by measuring it, you can find out how wide you need the door block. This is the door leaf + door frame. So the outer dimensions of the door frame must be less than the measured value. For example, if you got 780 mm, look for a block with 700 mm parameters. The wider ones cannot be inserted into this opening.
The most complete set of interior doors - with a frame, accessories and platbands
When choosing a door, pay attention to the complete set. There are three types of assembly:
- Door leaf. Buy the box separately.
- Doors with a frame. Everything is included, but the box is in the form of separate boards. You will have to file the corners and connect, hang the loops yourself.
- Door block. These are ready-to-install doors - the box is assembled, the hinges are hung. Only trim the sidewalls to the height, align and secure.
With the same quality of the door leaf, the prices for these kits differ significantly. But the difference in the time you will spend on installation is decent.
Step-by-step installation of interior doors
In general, there are many subtleties. We will try to describe and illustrate the most common moments in a photo or video material.
Step 1: Assembling the door frame
If you did not buy a pre-assembled door unit, the first step is to assemble the door frame. It consists of two long posts located on the sides, and one shorter crossbar at the top - the lintel.
Connection methods
There are at least two options for how to connect these strips to each other:
Regardless of which way you are going to connect the elements of the door frame, the first thing to do is washed down the racks and lintels on one side. Then they are put into a box on the floor, checking the correctness of the connection. Next, you need to decide on the height of the side parts of the door frame.
Determine the dimensions
When folded, the required length is measured along the inside of the rack. The racks are not always the same: the floor is often uneven and this must be taken into account. To do this, take a level and check how level the floor is. If it is perfectly level, the racks will be the same. If there is a deviation, it must be taken into account: make one of the racks longer. Usually this is a few millimeters, but even this is enough for the doors to warp.
When calculating the height, keep in mind that the racks should be 1-2 cm longer than the door leaf (taking into account the cuts). A gap of 1 cm is made under the door, if they do not intend to put a rug under the door. If there is a rug / carpet / carpet, it is better to make it larger. Don't be afraid to leave gaps. They are needed for. Note again: the height is measured along the inside of the door frame - from the bottom edge to the saw cut. Cutting off, try on the racks in the doorway.
Now you need to saw off the lintel along the length and, if necessary, saw it off on the other side (if the joint is at 45 °). The length of the lintel should be such that when folded, the distance between the posts is greater than the width of the door leaf. The minimum clearance is 7 mm but is often made larger. 7-8 mm are distributed as follows: 2 mm for the hinges, and 2.5-3 mm for expansion gaps. Any interior doors - MDF, fiberboard, wood - change their dimensions depending on humidity. Clearances are required to accommodate these changes. And 5-6 mm is not always enough, especially in humid rooms. For the bathroom, just leave a little more, otherwise, with high humidity, they may be difficult to open.
So, we decided on the minimum gaps when installing interior doors:
- on hinges - 5-6 mm;
- top, bottom and sides - 3 mm;
- bottom - 1-2 cm.
After you have cut off all the pieces and made the cuts, fold the box down on the floor. If you notice somewhere flaws in the docking, eliminate it with sandpaper fixed to the bar. The more accurate the match, the smaller the gap.
Assembly
Regardless of the material of the box and the method of connection, holes are pre-drilled for fasteners - so that the material does not break. The drill diameter is 1 mm less than the screw diameter.
The box is folded, angles are set at 90 °. Holding the rack and lintel in this position, drill holes with a drill. If there is an assistant, he can hold. If you work alone, temporarily fasten the correctly positioned box with two transverse bars - closer to the top and bottom. This will help you avoid mistakes and make the right connection.
If connected at an angle of 45 °, three holes are made on each side. Two on top - stepping back a centimeter from the edge, and one on the side - in the center. In total, three self-tapping screws are required for each connection. The direction of installation of self-tapping screws is perpendicular to the connection line.
If connected at 90 °, everything is simpler. Drill two holes from above, directing the drill exactly down.
Step 2: stitching
Most often, 2 hinges are installed on the interior doors, but 3 hinges are also possible. They are set backing 200-250 mm from the edge of the door leaf. If the frame and door leaf are made of wood, choose a location so that there are no knots. First, the hinges are attached to the door leaf. The procedure is as follows:
- We apply loops to the selected places, outline the contours. The easiest way to do this is with a finely sharpened pencil, but experts advise - with a knife blade. This makes it more accurate and the gaps remain smaller.
- If they have, if not, they take a chisel and choose the material for the thickness of the loop. More sampling is not necessary, only for the thickness of the metal.
- A loop is installed in the prepared recess. Its plane should be flush with the surface of the canvas.
- The exposed loop is fixed with self-tapping screws.
Having fastened two hinges, the door leaf is placed in the assembled box, the correct gaps are set: from the side of the hinges - 5-6 mm, 3 mm from the opposite side and from above. Having set these gaps, the canvas is fixed with wedges. Exposed exactly in horizontal and vertical planes (shims can be used, if necessary).
After exposure, the locations of the mating parts of the loops are marked. Sometimes it is more convenient to remove the already installed loop and then reinstall it. A notch is also made according to the marking. Depth - so that the surface of the hinge is flush with the surface of the door frame.
Do-it-yourself door hinge is described in detail in the video.
Step 3: Install the door frame
The assembled box must be correctly inserted into the opening. This is a very important task. Before installing the interior door, knock down everything that can fall off in the opening. If the wall is too loose, the surface is treated with deep penetration primers with an astringent effect. If there are too large holes, they are covered with plaster, very large protrusions are constrained. It is easier to insert an interior door into the prepared opening. If this is your first time doing this yourself, make it easier for yourself.
A box without a door leaf is exposed. It is oriented strictly vertically. The verticality is checked not only by the level, but also by the plumb line. The level often gives an error, therefore it is more reliable to check with a plumb line.
So that during installation the box does not warp, still install temporary spacers on the floor, slopes in the cornerswhich give a high degree of rigidity. To open the doors, they are inserted in the same plane with the wall. Only in this way will it open completely. If the wall is uneven, the box is not placed on the wall, but vertically. Otherwise there will be problems with opening or closing the door.
How to insert an interior door with your own hands - in the same plane with the wall
Once the position is selected, you can fix. This is done using mounting wedges - triangular wooden or plastic bars. First, wedges are placed on both sides of the lintel - crossbars, then above the posts. Thus, the position of the box relative to the doorway is selected and fixed. Next, the verticality of the racks is checked again. They are checked in two planes - so that they are not tilted forward or backward.
Then the wedges are installed at the bottom, then after about 50-60 cm, checking that the racks are exactly level. The cross bar is additionally wedged in the middle. They check if the elements of the box are not bent somewhere, correct if necessary. You can start mounting.
Step 4: attaching the box to the doorway
There are also two ways of fastening: right through to the wall and mounting plates. If the wall allows and you are not intimidated by the hats of the fasteners in the box, you can attach them through and through. It is reliable.
To install interior doors, it is quite enough to screw two self-tapping screws into the cutouts for the hinges and, on the other hand, under the plate of the counterpart of the lock. Additional holes are drilled in the cutouts. They are made so as not to fall into the holes for fastening the hinges or the counterpart. Make sure that the head of the screws is recessed and does not interfere with the installation of the hinges and overlays.
Installation of interior doors according to this scheme is shown in the video. There are also some interesting nuances about exposing the door frame.
If such an amount of fasteners seems unreliable, drill through and cover the holes with decorative washers matched to the tone. Or there is also a special MDF molding with removable strips. The fastener is installed in the prepared groove and then closed with a strap.
The second method is secret, the fasteners are not visible. First, the mounting plates are attached to the back of the box. In principle, it can be used for drywall, but there are also special ones - thicker, although when installing interior doors, drywall will be enough.
Step 5: foaming
After all the gaps are exposed and the wedges are installed, the gaps between the box and the wall are filled with polyurethane foam. For its better polymerization, the wall is moistened with water from a spray bottle. After that, the foam is squeezed out, filling no more than 2/3. Too much foam can cause the box to be blown inward. Therefore, do not overdo it.
Spacers are used to ensure the doors are not warped by foam. But if you do not overdo it with foam, nothing should happen.
Spacers for fixing the box - with such an installation of the interior door, the box should be level
After the foam has polymerized (the exact time is indicated on the cylinder), the spacers are removed, the door leaf is hung and the door operation is checked. Next comes the finishing work: and platbands, if necessary - extras.
You know how to install an interior door with your own hands. There is nothing super complicated, but we tried to describe the main nuances. There is a lot of useful information in the video - these are recommendations from practitioners.
The interior door serves to divide the space in the room, and also provides sound insulation in a private house or apartment. In addition, the door leaf is an important detail of the interior, therefore, it must correspond to the design style. Since installation work is quite expensive, the question arises of how to properly install interior doors with your own hands. The answer is in the detailed step-by-step instructions on this page.
Dimensions and equipment
By the way of opening, the doors are folding, sliding and swing. The latter are the most popular, since they are structurally the simplest and fairly easy to install. They are presented in a large number of modifications. By the way of opening, the following are distinguished:
- two-leaf and single-leaf;
- left- and right-sided.
Step 3: Installing the box and hanging the canvas
The box must be installed in a pre-prepared opening. The hinge stand should be leveled first with a plumb line or level. It is imperative to check it from all sides. Then the top bar and the stand must be spread with wedges. The stand will only be exposed when it is upright.
Next, the second rack is wedged. Be sure to check the horizontal part of the box.
The old way - the side posts have to be drilled through. For this, holes for dowels are initially made in the wall. The box must be fixed to the wall with self-tapping screws at least 150 mm long.
Old way fasteners In order to fix the box in the opening in a hidden way, you can use metal plates, which are usually used for installing plasterboard structures. Most often, these plates are used in conjunction with anchors. In this case, it is worth choosing the number of fasteners in accordance with the expected load.
This is what the mount looks like The use of such plates is a non-standard method and is possible only in the absence of a fine finish. It is recommended to grind out a section of the wall in order to subsequently putty the fasteners.
It remains to hang the door on the frame. After that, you need to carry out the final adjustment of the box. The padlock post must then fit under the door so that it does not protrude over the wall. It is worth remembering that in order to preserve the integrity of the box and the canvas, you must first drill several holes for the screws.
Step 4: foaming
After fixing the canvas, you need to foam the gaps between the box and the edges of the opening. The foam should be fed neatly, in layers, while feeding from the top so that it does not come out. Then the door will have to be closed and not touched for a certain time in order for the foam to dry. The approximate drying time is 1 day.
If the composition accidentally falls on the canvas, immediately remove it with a clean dry cloth, dried fragments are cleaned with effective ones.
Step 5: Installing the lock and handles in the door leaf
The most popular today are handles with a built-in lock. The order of work is as follows:
- Mark one meter from the floor. The handle mechanism must be attached so that the mark is visible on the top of the hole.
- Drill holes in the web from the end. The edges of the holes should then be cut off with a chisel to align the hole.
- Insert the mechanism into the hole. In this case, the lock must be aligned, and then fixed with self-tapping screws. The plank on the lock should be outlined with a pencil for cutting the veneer, then the mechanism should be removed. Along the outlined contour, you need to select a site to determine the thickness of the key strip. This is done by using a chisel.
- Drill holes for latch and handles. You need to attach the lock to the canvas from different sides, align and mark it. Holes must be made on both sides and they must not be through.
- Remove the formed shavings and install the handles.
Step 6: Install the expansion strips
A plank is called a plank approximately 2 meters long, 250 mm wide, and no more than 3 cm thick. The plank should be used during the installation of interior doors if the wall is thicker than the door frame.
The beams for the boxes are made in a standard width of about 70 mm. It can be expanded according to the thickness of the opening with an extension. This will allow you to more clearly align the box and walls. The bar has a groove for the strip. First, it is necessary to measure the distance to the edge of the wall, starting from the depth of the groove.
The addon can be installed in different ways:
- into the groove in the box;
- with cutting a groove in the absence of a finished one;
- attaching an extension from the inside of a bar in the absence of a groove, the box is installed together with the extension;
- fastening of an extension in the form of "P";
- if the accessory is not too wide and there is no groove in the box, the bar should be drilled and screwed to the box.
The plank is sawn into several parts with a circular saw to obtain several extensions of the required dimensions. You need to prepare one short bar and two vertical ones. Check out our easy step-by-step guide to.
Step 7: fastening the platbands
During the installation of the platbands, the box must be positioned level with the opening on the front side. To connect the platbands, you must first attach the vertical bar to the box and place the mark 0.5 cm higher, retreating from the crossbar of the box. This mark will act as the cutting edge. In the same way, you need to mark the slice on the other side.
