From the author: Hi friends! Agree, it's good when there is a spacious apartment available, or even a house built in accordance with personal preferences. As a rule, all premises in such dwellings differ in quite decent dimensions, because comfort is the most important thing that we want to get from the hearth. But still more often there are situations when we are forced to live not in ideal, but in affordable housing. Take, for example, the well-known "Khrushchev". You can still accept the size of the rooms in it. In principle, there is where to turn around, and not everyone likes huge halls.
But the bathroom is an eternal headache for the owners. Typically, there is room for either plumbing or a person. You can still go there, but more or less freely turn around - no longer. Therefore, in such cases there is only one way out - to choose the most compact equipment possible. In today's article, we will talk about how to choose and how to install a wall-hung toilet. This type of product can save much-needed indoor space. Of course, its installation is more complicated than in the case of ordinary sanitary ware. But, believe me, the opportunity to free up space will make you very happy in the end.
Advantages and disadvantages
Many are very wary of such "delights". We are used to seeing toilets in the guise of solid equipment, reliable and sturdy. Suspended options seem to be more flimsy, and in general, people usually approach everything new with caution. Let's take a look at what positive and negative features are inherent in this type of sanitary ware:
- aesthetic appearance. An ordinary toilet looks more rude and even, one might say, frank. While the models attached to the wall are beautiful and laconic;
- ease of cleaning. Usually, when cleaning the bathroom, the toilet "leg" gives a lot of problems, especially in a tight room where it is difficult to bend over. You have to get up to it, and then carefully clean all the bends that are there, while being in an uncomfortable position. With suspended ones, you can forget about such difficulties, since there is no leg - no problem;
- all communications and the water tank itself are hidden in the wall. On the one hand, it is beautiful and, again, aesthetically pleasing. No pipes disturb the external harmony of the room. On the other hand, if something hidden suddenly breaks down, problems may arise. Firstly, if there is a leak, it is difficult to notice it quickly. Secondly, the repair will not be so simple, since you will have to somehow get to the elements sealed in the wall. Although I have seen very convenient options, when a door is made in the false wall at the level of placement of such equipment - in particular, problem areas such as joints, valves, etc. - a door is made. Outwardly, it does not stand out too much from the surface, since it is finished with the same decorative material as the entire wall. At the same time, the issue of access to communications is solved easily and simply;
- saving space. We have already touched on this issue above, but the following point should be clarified. It is the physical economy in terms of the size of the room that you will get fifteen centimeters, no more, since some part will be occupied by a false wall, which we will talk about a little below. But visually it will become much more spacious. And then, in especially critical cases, the place under such a toilet can also be useful for placing any necessary things. So there is a spatial benefit anyway;
- some people have doubts about whether such equipment can withstand a heavy load. Especially often such fears arise in those who weigh a lot. Purely psychologically, an object hanging on the wall does not look very reliable, so obese people are usually afraid to use such things. In fact, the mount is strong enough to support around 150 kilograms. so there is nothing to be afraid of if your body weight does not exceed these limits. Otherwise, of course, it is better to take the usual version, installed on the floor;
- price. Here the wall-mounted toilet has nothing to brag about: it is frankly more expensive than the floor-standing counterpart. True, it cannot be said that this option is available only to wealthy people. The range of cost is quite wide, so you can still choose a model for yourself that suits your budget;
- complexity of installation. This can also scare off many, especially beginners, masters. In general, it is not in vain, since it is not so easy to correctly install the pendant model with your own hands. You will have to mount not only the equipment itself, but also make a fake wall. However, the complexity of this activity is not outrageous. So with a little patience and thoughtfulness, you can definitely do it.
Varieties of construction
Basically, the essence of all wall-hung toilet bowls is the same: they consist of a cistern, a bowl and an installation. Of course, each of these parts is different from those inherent in floor models. The bowl has a different shape, the tank is flat and plastic. The installation should be discussed separately.
Installation
The installation is, in fact, the very structure, thanks to which all other elements are safely held in suspension. It is a sturdy frame made of steel.
There are two options for mounting installations: block and frame. The first ones are compact in size - as a rule, the dimensions are half a meter in width, a meter in height and 10-15 centimeters in depth. The volume of the cistern, which is attached to such a frame, varies from three to five liters.
The block installation is mounted only on the wall, without the participation of the floor. Therefore, the foundation must be very reliable. That is, for fixing such a structure, it is only suitable, but not in any way interior. This must be taken into account when choosing.
Frame installations are larger. Their width can be from 50 to 60 centimeters, the height is from 80 to 140 centimeters, and the depth varies from 15 to 30 centimeters. The tank installed on this structure can hold from 6 to 9 liters of water.
Such structures are not suspended from the wall. They are placed on the floor and attached to it. Some models are additionally fixed on the wall, but at the same time it does not have to be a carrier.
Bowl
The main operational place of such a toilet bowl can be round, rectangular, egg-shaped, etc. - the modern market offers many different options, among which you can choose the one that suits your taste. Bowls also differ in size. They can be compact, up to half a meter long, medium, like in conventional toilets, and also enlarged, the length of which varies from 65 to 70 centimeters.
In addition, you can choose models with some features:
- bowls without a rim - there is no usual protrusion in the upper part of them, which makes cleaning the product much easier;
- built-in bidet - in the normal state, the washer nozzle is hidden in the back wall of the bowl, and if necessary it can be pulled out;
- backlight. As a rule, it is connected to a motion sensor, which makes the use of such a toilet extremely convenient at night or during a power outage in the house.
Of course, the design of the bowls can be very varied. There are options from glass, earthenware, metal and other materials, with or without drawings. The color gamut is also very wide. Here, the choice depends solely on your personal preferences.
Installation procedure
Installation of wall-hung toilet bowls can be done with or without installation. The first option is more popular, so let's start with it.
Installation with installation
The first thing to check is the strength of the wall and floor. Ideally, they should be concrete. We remind you that if you decide to use the block version of the frame, then the wall must be load-bearing. It is on the strength of the connection between the frame and the base that the reliability of the installation of suspended sanitary ware depends. So let's get to work.
- We start, naturally, with the markup. We need to mark on the wall and floor all those points where the fasteners will be placed, as well as the location of the sewer outlet and water pipe. To make it easier, first mark the place where the cistern will be fixed. Usually it is located a meter from the floor, and the bowl is half a meter.
- Now you need to bring the water pipe to the corresponding mark. To do this, you can use a flexible hose, but the best option is still metal-plastic. It is more reliable and durable.
- We also bring the sewer outlet to the desired place. If your installation is of a frame type, then pay attention to the fact that it provides a specific section for this pipe, in accordance with which you need to place it.
- Next, we proceed to fixing the frame. In the places marked for fasteners, we drill holes, for this we need a puncher. We install the dowels, then the frame, fix it with anchor screws. Fixation is done first on the floor and then, if necessary, on the wall.
- We connect the cistern to the water supply pipe, and also fix the sewer outlet to the installation.
- The steel frame has holes for screwing in special pins that come with the equipment. Reinstall these elements.
- Now you need to mount the fake wall. The best option for this is drywall. But keep in mind that not everyone will work. Conventional drywall is very poorly tolerated by water. Since we are talking about a bathroom (and it is often also combined), care must be taken to prevent the destruction of the wall. Therefore, only use waterproof drywall. Outwardly, it differs from ordinary material in its greenish surface. In a sheet of drywall, cut holes for everything that will stick out of it: this is a sewer pipe, pins, a drain button, and the like. Mount the wall and then finish it. This can be done with paint or tiles.
- We put the bowl on the pins, press it properly against the wall, fix it with bolts.
- At the end of the process, we mount the drain button.
Checking our design. To do this, open the valve on the cold water supply pipe, wait until the tank is full, then drain. We repeat several times. If everything is in order - the performance is at the required level, there are no leaks, etc. - then it can be put into operation.
Installation without installation
You can do without a steel frame, but this installation is only done on a load-bearing wall. You will need metal rods with a length of 30 centimeters or more, wooden panels, concrete, toilet bowls and wall cladding material.
- We take out from the wall.
- At the desired height from the floor (that is, where the bowl will be fixed), we drill holes and install metal rods in them. It is desirable that the wall is drilled through and the rods are secured with nuts on the back of the wall. If this is not possible - for example, there is a neighbors' apartment on the other side of it - then do not drill through, but add glue intended for concrete products into the holes before installing the rods.
- Further, around the sewer outlet and the rods, we mount the formwork from wooden panels, creating a box of three walls. We close the pipe with a thick film. On the central panel, we fix a piece of polystyrene in the place where the bowl will be connected to the drain.
- Pour concrete into the formwork. You can make it yourself from one part of cement, two sand, three rubble and the required amount of water. Add soap as a plasticizer.
- After pouring, we wait about a week for the structure to dry. We remove the formwork.
- We mount the bowl and the tank to the appropriate places, we connect communications.
- Sewing up and finishing the wall.
Both mounting methods are not so easy. But using the installation is still more convenient and takes much less time. With concrete, you will have to tinker as much as possible. In addition, such works are not distinguished by excessive cleanliness, and it will take a whole week to dry the block around the pins.
On the other hand, this option is cheaper. So, if you prefer to spend energy rather than money, then go for it. Good luck!
Installing a simple toilet is not difficult. But if the toilet is hinged, then the bathroom must be equipped with an additional link - an installation. In this article, you will learn howDIY installation of a toilet bowl, as well as its connection to the sewer system.
While different brands of toilets may differ predominantly in bowl shape or surface, installation may cause many toilet problems in the next 20 years. Indeed, the tank, frame and other elements will be hidden, making it difficult to access them.
The modern plumbing market can offer installations of two types.
Important! If the bathroom is located in the center of the living space, far from the main walls, then only a frame installation can be installed in it.
With regards to manufacturers, Vega, Grohe and Geberit are considered the most reliable today. But here everything depends mainly on personal wishes. It is important that the model belongs to a well-known brand that has already established itself. The installation costs will be more expensive, but in terms of operation it will quickly pay for itself.
What is required in the work
To install the installation, you need to acquire the following tools:
The right tools are half the battle.
Installation should begin with the selection of a suitable location. If the layout is standard, then the best place is a niche with risers located in it. The niche itself will have to be altered somewhat, "pushing" the risers on the sides.
Important! Metal risers must be replaced with plastic ones.
Wall hung toilet with modular construction
Step one. It all starts with the markup. If we are talking about a small apartment, then the toilet is installed in accordance with the axis of the room, since the area here is insignificant. If the apartment is large enough, then the toilet is tied to the drain axis. Draw this axis with a marker.
Step two. The next step is to measure the height. Almost always, it depends only on the design features of the frame. Points for installing dowels are marked.
Important! Dimensions for this need to be taken only from the instructions attached to the product, because they are different for different manufacturers.
It is also important to keep the correct distance of the dowels from the center of the installation. For example, if its width is 60 cm, then on both sides of the axis 30 cm recede. Holes are made with a puncher, dowels are hammered into them.
Step three. The drain tank is screwed on, the drain hole is twisted (for more details, both procedures are described in the instructions). The presence of all the necessary gaskets is checked, after which the tank is connected to the water supply.
Step four. The pins supplied with the plumbing are screwed into the pre-drilled holes. The distance they protrude outward depends solely on the size of the toilet. Typically, the pins will remain open until the installation is complete - only then the bowl is installed.
The last step is to fix the drain hose with clamps (if provided by the design).
Step one. First, the frame is assembled, after which the drain tank is attached to it. The position of the frame is adjusted by means of screws and brackets located at the top. Frames are always sold separately - they are versatile, so they fit any toilet.
At the end of the assembly, a structure with a height of 1.3-1.4 m comes out, while the width depends on the specific model. The maximum load that such frames can withstand reaches 450-490 kg.
Step two. When installing the drain tank, you must adhere to the following rules:
- the drain button should be one meter from the floor;
- toilet bowl - about 40-45 cm;
- sewer outlet - 22-25 cm;
- the distance between the fasteners must be equal to the distance between the lugs of the toilet.
The frame is usually attached in four places. A small gap remains between it and the surface - at least 2 cm.
Step three. The assembled installation is installed, moreover, clearly horizontally. To do this, the slope of the wall is checked with a plumb line and, if any, a horizontal line is drawn at the point where the plumb line touches the floor. Then a second is drawn from the line at a distance necessary for the installation of the installation.
The frame is attached to the wall, the points of the fasteners are marked. Holes are made. The frame is screwed to the floor, its height is adjusted with screws, and its horizontal position is adjusted with a building level.
Step four. A water pipe is connected to the drain tank. This can be done from the side or from above, but in almost all modern models, the connection point can be changed.
Important! It is undesirable to use a flexible hose when connecting a drain tank, since it will last much less than the toilet itself, and it will be quite difficult to replace it under a false wall if necessary.
Therefore, plastic pipes are used for the connection. The tank itself is insulated with a material that prevents moisture condensation. Everything that is required during installation is included, except that a panel with a drain button must be purchased separately.
Step five. The toilet outlet is connected to the riser. It is often impossible to insert the outlet directly, so a corrugation is used. After that, all connections are checked for tightness.
Step six. Before assembling a drywall box, you need to do the following:
- close all openings with plugs so that debris does not get into them;
- screw the shifts into the frame to fix the toilet bowl.
All technological holes are cut out in the drywall, after which it is fixed on the frame with self-tapping screws. Plasterboard is finished with tiles.
Step seven. You can start installing the toilet no earlier than 10 days after laying the tiles. The outlet is adjusted to the sewer hole, and the place of contact of the tile with the toilet is covered with silicone sealant. The toilet is placed on the shifters, the nuts are tightened.
After that, it is advisable to make a test drain of the water in order to check the tightness.
Step one. With the help of metal fasteners, the position of the knee is fixed. The release of the toilet bowl is treated with technical ointment, after which the device is placed on the installation site. Its outline is outlined with a marker, all mounting holes are indicated. Then the toilet is removed, and the mounting angles included in the kit are installed according to the markings made. The toilet is put back, the outlet is pressed into the drain pipe.
Step two. The cistern is installed according to the instructions. At the outlet of the toilet, the connecting cuff is fixed, the bolts are tightened, and their caps are closed with special caps.
Step three. The drain button is guided into the drilled hole.
Step four. The finished structure is checked for leaks.
Video - Installation for the Geberit DuoFresh toilet - installation
- If a floor-standing toilet is leaking, then the tightness of the joints treated with a sealant is checked. Joints with corrugation are reprocessed.
- To facilitate future repairs, a technological hole must be provided under the drain button.
- The instability of the toilet can be corrected by tightening the bolts. This must be done carefully so as not to rip the threads.
- The drain button must be placed between the tiles.
- The leak in the drain tank is most likely due to improper installation of the gasket. To replace it, water is cut off and all fasteners are unscrewed. The gaskets are getting better, everything is twisted back.
- The drain should be at an angle of 45 ° C, otherwise the water will stagnate in the toilet.
- When buying an installation, it is better to give preference to a model equipped with a water saving system. Often, such a system provides for the presence of two drain buttons - for full or partial drain.
Video - Installation and installation of a wall-hung toilet on a GEBERIT installation
Conclusion
That is, in fact, all the nuances of editing. The main thing is to fulfill all the requirements, and at the end of each stage, check the tightness of the joints. All defects found should be immediately eliminated, since it will be difficult to do this later, when the structure is hidden by drywall.
Video - Installation of GROHE installation
Reading time ≈ 3 minutes
Saving space and aesthetic features are the main advantages of a wall-hung toilet, therefore, by choosing this option, its owner will certainly not fail. If there are no special questions with the installation of the toilet, then hanging its "brother" will require manual dexterity due to the presence of an additional link in the bathroom - installation. Do-it-yourself installation of a toilet bowl does not provide for difficulty if you have all the necessary construction tools and perform the work in stages.
The uninterrupted functioning of the sanitary ware depends on the sequence of installation of the toilet bowl installation. First of all, its installation is carried out, then the connection of the sewage system, camouflage of visible elements and decoration. For clarity, below is a photo and video of the installation under the toilet, which will greatly simplify the perception of information.
Preparatory stage
First of all, along with the toilet, you need to purchase an installation system. Unlike bidets, there is a wide selection of manufacturers on the market today. By their principle, they all represent a flush-mounted frame. But here, as they say, to each his own.
From the tools you need a punch or drill, a drill for concrete with a diameter equal to the hole of the fasteners, wrenches, a building level, a pencil and a tape measure.
When all the necessary construction equipment is at hand, we proceed to the marking and preparation of the fastener system. It is important to measure the distance from the installation system to the wall surface and mark the location of the cistern. It will be correct to install it at a height of 100 cm from the floor.
Do not forget about the fastening of the installation itself: it is necessary to mark points for fastening elements on the surface of the wall and floor. In this case, the fasteners should be given special attention. Using a perforator, holes are drilled according to the previously made marks, where anchors with dowels are inserted.
Installation of wall-hung toilet bowls
The installation diagram of the toilet bowl installation has a clear sequence:
- on a pre-prepared place, the frame is installed, which is fixed with special adjusting nuts and screws;
- the installation body is adjusted horizontally and vertically;
- the horizontal level is set by adjusting the structure of the legs, and the vertical level by adjusting to the anchor thread.
Having completed the installation of the installation under the toilet, it is necessary to bring the toilet to the sewer pipe. It was important to pre-install a branch pipe with a diameter of 110 mm and bring the water supply.
Regarding the water supply to the tank, experts recommend using a rigid pipe instead of a flexible pipe. The pipes from the cistern and the sewer pipe are attached to fixing plastic clamps.
Finally, before installing the plumbing product, we once again check the tightness of all elements. Finally, we put on PVC couplings, install a shock-absorbing gasket and a toilet bowl.
The suspended toilet differs from the classic floor-standing toilet only in that the communications are hidden inside the wall. Only the toilet itself is visible from the outside. The rest of the water supply and drainage system is hidden behind the wall. This is called an installation.
It is a rectangular metal frame with threaded holes for fastening, and a flat plastic drain tank. The system also comes with a drain button, which costs almost more than the installation itself (TW button, bronze 16,920 rubles).
Recently, it was impossible to install a wall-hung toilet in a bathroom, but now, thanks to the huge choice in the plumbing market, you can do the installation of a wall-hung toilet with your own hands. Although many are afraid to install a suspended structure, because there are some outdated myths regarding it.
Wall hung toilet myths
Myth 1. A hanging toilet, if a heavy person sits on it, will fall and break.
The toilet itself, if it is made of high quality, without cracks, can withstand the weight up to 400 kg. The only thing that can fail is a poorly installed installation. It is a welded metal square frame. The installation is fixed to the floor with two bolts of 12 mm in diameter, as well as to the wall at a height of 1.2 m above the floor level with bolts of the same diameter.
The toilet itself is hung at a height of 35-40 cm above the floor level. One such bolt is able to withstand a person, and there are two such bolts, and even a couple at the bottom. If you find a 12 mm drill, then it will not be a problem to screw in such bolts, and the installation will not collapse with daily use of plumbing.
Toilets with installation are real aristocrats in the world of plumbing. These are convenient and compact devices, usually distinguished by a great design and a price that is not at all sparing for their owner. In addition, installing a wall-hung toilet is a rather difficult task, it requires very careful execution.
Nevertheless, the number of adherents of toilet bowls with installation is growing steadily. Many home craftsmen, after studying the recommendations and instructions, successfully cope with the installation of this difficult design on their own.
It is only important to correctly complete each stage of the installation work.
A wall-hung toilet is much more complex than a conventional compact or monolith. An installation is called a solid metal frame. This frame is installed inside the wall niche and is securely fixed to the wall and to the floor.
There is some space between the wall-hung toilet bowl and the floor. It is easier to clean the bathroom in such conditions, since there is no toilet leg
The flat plastic tank is already attached to the frame. Then the necessary communications are brought to the niche, the finishing is done and the toilet itself is hung.
The toilet remains outside, and the rest of the filling remains hidden in the wall. A flush button is also displayed on the wall, which is usually located on the wall above the bowl. Even from this concise description, it can be understood that the installation of such a device is a laborious process.
But still, the model with installation has many advantages:
- aesthetic appearance and attractive design - the bowl seems to float above the floor;
- compact size, leaving wide space for placing the toilet in both small and large bathrooms;
- the absence of a leg makes cleaning the room much easier;
- the installation design is universal, it is possible to choose some elements to your taste and wallet;
- frame and cistern breakages are extremely rare, and it is usually not difficult to repair or replace the drain button.
Wall-hung toilet bowls differ markedly in configuration, structure, shape, size, design, color and other characteristics, which leaves a wide scope for choosing the right plumbing.
Among the shortcomings, it should be noted the high price. Taking into account the installation costs, the cost of such a toilet can be twice the cost of a standard floor-standing model.
However, manufacturers take into account the growing popularity of suspended plumbing, so relatively inexpensive models have appeared on sale. Another drawback is that the tank and frame, hidden in the wall, are not very accessible for repair.
In the event of a serious breakdown, you may have to turn the entire wall around and re-do the finishing work on that area.
Materials and tools
To install a toilet with the installation of a built-in toilet, you must purchase the following items:
- installation frame with a plastic tank;
- a bowl of a wall-mounted toilet;
- flush button;
- toilet studs;
- a set of nozzles for connecting a bowl to a tank, etc.
The installation is usually supplied complete with a flat plastic cistern, as well as adapters, nozzles, fasteners and a flush button. The kit usually includes a special material that protects the structure inside the wall from the effects of condensation, and also reduces the noise level from the operating tank.
When purchasing, you should carefully check the kit in order to immediately purchase the missing items. The toilet bowl is also purchased separately. The dimensions and configuration of the installation, like other parts, are standardized, so they can be changed if desired.
For example, you can opt for the new dual flush button, which saves water.
The diagram clearly shows the installation device with a plastic cistern and the necessary connectors, which is designed to install a wall-hung toilet
To complete the installation, you will also need a number of tools, first of all, a hammer drill and concrete drills that match the fasteners. You also need a building level, open-end spanners, a tape measure, a pencil for marking, a knife for cutting drywall, etc.
Installation procedure for a wall-hung toilet
Schematically, the order of work during the installation of a toilet bowl with installation can be represented in the form of a number of basic steps:
- Make a niche in the wall of a suitable size.
- Bring the sewer to the niche.
- Carry out the installation of the installation frame.
- Bring cold water pipes to the installation site.
- Connect the toilet cistern.
- Close the niche, install the flush plate and finish.
- Hang the toilet by connecting to the cistern, as well as to the sewer.
You will also need a certain amount of drywall, both for installation and finishing work.
Each stage of work on the installation of a wall-mounted toilet requires close attention. The service life of the device, the number and nature of breakdowns largely depend on the quality of installation work.
The results of even minor errors made during the installation process may not become apparent immediately, but only during operation. Repair can be very costly and time consuming, so it is better to immediately install all the elements of this device correctly than to redo it later.
In detail, the procedure for installing a wall-mounted toilet is presented in the following video:
Niche for installation
Only walls with adequate load-bearing capacity are suitable for creating a niche and installing an installation. The installation is capable of supporting a weight of about 400 kg, and part of this load falls on the wall. Therefore, it would be unreasonable to put a hinged toilet on a drywall wall, it may simply collapse.
So, to install the installation, you need to hollow out a niche in the wall with the following parameters:
- height - 1000 mm;
- width - 600 mm;
- depth - 150-200 mm.
Sometimes depth requirements are not easy to meet. In this case, the niche is made to the possible depth, and its deficiency is hidden with the help of drywall and finishing.
Thus, there is a space for experiments in the field of interior design. For example, you can make a built-in wardrobe in the space between the ledge that appears and the wall, or hang open shelves there.
But the idea of just putting the frame along the wall, and then completely sheathe it with drywall does not make much sense. In this case, it is easier and cheaper to put an ordinary compact in the same place, which will take up the same amount of space or even less.
If the bathroom already has a niche for water and sewer communications, it makes sense to install the installation in it.
Residents of the upper floors of apartment buildings are sometimes installed in the niche of the fan riser. In this case, part of the fan riser is cut off and an air valve is installed where the outlet to the attic is located.
In some bathrooms, a niche for communications is provided for by the project. It can also be used for the installation of the installation, but some alterations may be necessary, for example, changing the position of the water pipes and displacing the sewer riser.
If a home craftsman does not have experience in performing such operations, it is better to consult with a specialist or even entrust him with performing this part of the installation work.
Sewerage supply
Before installing the frame, you must take care of the correct supply of the sewer pipe to the installation site. You will need a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. It should be laid as close to the floor as possible, and it is imperative to maintain the correct slope.
The connection point should be 250 mm from the center of the wall niche. An oblique bend with an angle of 45 degrees is put on the horizontal part of the pipe. After completing these operations, you can proceed with the installation installation.
Installation of a frame with a cistern
There are four points for the installation of the toilet bowl installation. In two places the legs of the frame are fixed to the floor, and in two more places the frame is fixed to the wall using brackets. In this case, it is imperative to use a building level so that the structure is perfectly level both vertically and horizontally.
If the installation is installed even with a slight bias, interruptions may occur in the operation of the internal mechanism, which will lead to an early breakdown of the structure. Use the adjustable feet to align the frame vertically.
The horizontal position is set using wall mountings, the position of which can also be changed as needed. Once the position of the installation is precisely aligned and fixed, you can screw it to the wall. To make the frame more stable, the legs can be additionally cemented.
A screed layer 20 cm high will be sufficient, but this measure is not required.
The height of the legs of the wall-hung toilet frame can be adjusted. This allows you to set the structure horizontally strictly in level
There are several holes in the lower part of the installation for further installation of the hanging bowl. The distance between the floor and these holes should be approximately 300-400 mm so that you can hang the toilet bowl high enough from the floor. Special pins should be installed in these holes.
They are inserted all the way into the wall and secured with special nuts. The studs are intended for the subsequent hanging of the toilet bowl.
The studs, which are intended for hanging the toilet bowl, must be inserted into the corresponding holes on the frame and fixed to the wall
Connecting communications
You should start by connecting the sewer. Usually the installation is completed with a special black outlet designed for this connection. It should be fitted to the sewer pipe. The other side of the outlet is attached to the installation with special clips.
The connection to the water supply is made on the right or left side of the installation. The water pipe is connected using a threaded connection already installed in the structure.
Ordinary flexible hoses can be used to supply water to the tank. It is an easy-to-install and inexpensive option, but the service life of the hoses is shorter than that of pipes, therefore, the need for complex repairs to replace them must be considered.
At this stage, it is necessary to check the reliability of the connection between the tank and the water supply system. To do this, open the water supply tap, which is located inside the tank, and fill the container. All connections are then checked for leaks and troubleshooting if necessary. It is not necessary to drain the water.
You can check the sewer connection as follows: put the bowl on the studs and perform a test flush without securing the structure.
After that, the bowl should be removed from the mount, check for the presence or absence of leaks, and then continue with the installation.
Finishing work
If the installation is installed correctly, and the tank does not leak, you need to sew up the niche with a sheet of drywall and carry out finishing work. It is recommended to take a double sheet of special moisture-resistant drywall. Ordinary drywall will soon be damaged by contact with condensation.
In order to correctly cut all the mounting holes in the sheet and not spoil the material, use a cutting template. Typically, such a template is supplied with the installation.
When the installation is installed and all the necessary communications are summed up, the niche is sewn up with a sheet of moisture-resistant drywall, on which finishing work is then carried out
In the bathroom, the walls are most often tiled with ceramic tiles. Further work on the installation of a wall-hung toilet can be started only at the end of this stage.
It will not be a mistake even to completely complete the repair of the bathroom, and only then continue the installation of the wall-hung toilet bowl with the installation.
Installing a wall-mounted toilet
This stage can be called the simplest, since the bulk of the work has already been completed. But first, it is recommended to wait until the tile adhesive layer is completely dry. The toilet bowl is installed as follows:
- Adjust the dimensions of the drain tank branch pipe, which should protrude 50 mm beyond the wall.
- In the same way, the branch pipe intended for the sewer drain is cut.
- Install the nozzles in their designated places.
- A special large-sized gasket is put on the previously installed pins and pipes; in configuration, it is similar to a truncated pyramid.
- Put the toilet bowl on the studs, securely connecting it to the pipes.
- Install plastic inserts and rubber gaskets.
- Slide on and tighten the retaining nuts.
- Cut off the protruding part of the rubber gasket.
Hanging up the toilet with installation, connecting it to the sewerage system and the cistern, as well as installing the flush button is carried out after finishing the finishing work
After that, you can check the operation of the sewage system by flushing the water from the tank into the toilet bowl. To adjust the height of the toilet bowl above the floor, you can change the position of the telescopic pins and pins for hanging the bowl. In this case, they are usually guided by the growth of the visitor.
The universal height is considered to be a distance of 40 cm from the edge of the bowl to the floor level.
Installing the flush plate
It remains to install the flush button. It can be pneumatic or mechanical. This is not a complicated operation, since all connections are already provided on the installation and must already be routed to the corresponding hole on the wall.
To install a mechanical button, you need to install special pins and then adjust their position. The pneumatic model only needs to be connected to the tedious tubes at the installation, and it will be ready to work.