What to make an apron in the kitchen? How to make a wall apron for the kitchen yourself Do-it-yourself kitchen apron from a film

Apron for the kitchen in this case is not a piece of clothing. We will talk about kitchen aprons, which also protect against splashes of water and grease, dirt and soot. But not an outfit (or a greasy dressing gown - whatever) of the hostess, but a wall behind the kitchen table and stove. And we will figure out why, from what and how to make an apron on the wall with your own hands.

What for?

The wall behind the stove has been lined with durable, dense and easily washable materials for a long time. The reason is clear: this is the most contaminated place in the kitchen. It is not worth relying on sheathing, plastering and painting: everyone knows that grease and soot eat into the usual finish tightly, and it is unprofitable to clad all the walls with expensive resistant materials. A kitchen apron occupies a small area and is relatively inexpensive. If necessary, it can be replaced without starting a general repair. But at the same time, some features appear in its implementation in comparison with a continuous finish, because. the apron actually hangs on the wall. But more on that later.

The second reason has appeared in our days along with new materials. For aprons, in particular - tempered carbonate glass. A wide variety of drawings can be applied to it for the overall design of the room, see fig. In addition, the glass apron is a solid, very hard plane that absolutely does not give in to fat, is easy to clean and lasts for decades.

In a kitchen with a glass backsplash, lighting from the underside of a hanging cabinet is especially effective in terms of aesthetics. Carbonate glass has a high index of refraction, which gives a beautiful play of light. But, of course, any other apron is not forbidden to highlight.

Of what?

So, we already know something necessary in order to make an apron in the kitchen ourselves: it must be light enough to hang on the wall, not absorb splashes and fumes of dirty water, grease, detergents. The last ones especially. Modern detergents are able to seep almost between the molecules. In recent years, research on kitchen contamination has been carried out in various countries. For walls, the conclusion is clear: they lose their appearance more from stubborn residues of detergents than from traditional kitchen dirt.

Tile

A tile apron is literally as old as the world. Kitchens were lined with ceramics in ancient times. According to hygienic indicators, glazed ceramics for the kitchen seems to be suitable, but! It is not produced in sheets or slabs of large size and cannot be made: during firing it leads and warps.

A tile is a tile: tile cladding is always with seams. Which, in terms of hygiene, immediately reduce all the advantages of tiles to nothing: dirt is very free in them, and in it - fungi with microbes. Nevertheless, the ceramic kitchen apron remains in use: modern grout mixtures make it possible to achieve proper hygiene of the seams for 10 years, the technology has been worked out for centuries, and the materials are inexpensive. Labor intensity, however, is tiled.

Varieties of ceramic aprons are shown in fig. The first on the left is a classic tiled apron, but the tile is already of modern production. The difference between this and the "good old Soviet" is visible without explanation.

In the center - the original apron from. Generally speaking, such a decision is an amateur with funds: the cost of the material is high, and the laboriousness is generally exorbitant, given the features of the apron, see below.

On the right is a mosaic apron. - an extremely complex and time-consuming type of decorative art, but for individual small patterned panels, modern manufacturers offer an interesting solution: sets of finished fragments, 200x200 mm or more in size, with elements of a mosaic seamless pattern. The drawing is developed on a computer. Having only 10-20 standard pieces at your disposal, you can get hundreds and thousands of various patterns, i.e. each of them will be almost unique, and the cost of a custom-made mosaic apron is comparable to a tiled one.

Glass

An apron made of glass, or skinali, is a relatively recent innovation. It appeared due to computer-controlled glass cutting on special machines and a sharp reduction in the cost of artificial diamond production technology in the last 10-15 years. The fact is that it is almost impossible to cut hardened carbonate: it is not only prickly, but breaks up into small rounded fragments.

Ordinary glass, albeit thick, is not very suitable for an apron: from accidentally splashing boiling water, it can crack, throwing out traumatic fragments. From fluctuations in temperature and humidity, thick glass begins to float in 5-7 years (remember, glass is not a solid body, but an exceptionally viscous liquid), a gap forms between it and the wall, in which dirt accumulates, forming nauseating stains.

Tempered glass is free from these shortcomings, but expensive, and together with custom-made computer cutting, it is even more expensive. Therefore, ready-made factory-made aprons are more in use. Their sizes, as a rule, are coordinated with those of certain types of kitchen sets.

About drawings on glass

Take another look at fig. at the beginning. Glass allows you to get a variety of decorative effects: stone imitation (top left), a visible increase in the depth of space (top center), which is especially important for a cramped kitchen, flat and 3D images, from abstract to “tasty”. How is this achieved?

The first way is photo printing. Layers of a special high-strength photographic emulsion are applied to the base, giving additional basic colors, as in a slide film. Then they are exposed to ultraviolet light through mask negatives, developed and covered with a protective film of acrylic or melamine.

The photo method allows you to get images that are stunningly realistic and fit exactly into the design. In addition, such panels can be permanently glued to the wall with silicone. There are two drawbacks: expensive, and the durability of the image, although it exceeds 5 years, is still incomparable with that of the glass base.

The second way is to stick a plastic poster with a picture on the wall, and put glass on top. The edge is sealed with silicone so that fumes do not penetrate the pattern. Such a beautiful apron costs several times less, but 3D has to be abandoned: even if the poster is three-dimensional, the volume of the image disappears under glass. Another disadvantage is that the glass has to be fixed to the wall with shaped screws. Fasteners are visible, and drilling carbonate glass costs money: 4 holes give an increase in price the same as cutting into a rectangle.

About plexiglass and acrylic

Will plexiglass or acrylic go to the apron? They are easy to process with conventional tools, water-resistant, lighter than ordinary glass. Temperature resistance - above 100 degrees.

Unfortunately, it won't work. Since it is easily processed with tools, it is easily scratched - once. Waterproof - yes, but splashes of grease and surfactants from detergents eat into it instantly and deeply. Heat resistance of 105-130 degrees - for softening and loss of strength, but already at a temperature "swing" of 20-45 degrees (and the plate may have 60) within six months for plexiglass and 3-4 years for acrylic, clouding, yellowing begins and warping. So, alas, if acrylic still goes to the windows, then it won’t go into the kitchen. And plexiglass - neither there nor there.

organic

However, there are easily processed organic materials suitable for laying out an apron. These are resistant facing plastics and MDF.

The best material for a plastic backsplash is a special tile. Most often, it is produced in sets for panels of a certain size with a pattern, see fig. left. In almost all respects, such an apron is not inferior to a glass one with a 3D pattern, but it costs one and a half to two times cheaper. True, the durability is 7-10 years, but by that time the need for repairs will also be ripe in modern apartments.

MDF provides the same durability. This is a good option for retro and country kitchens, in the center in fig. It is easy to assemble an MDF apron, just remove the paint from the wall (as below) and walk on the plaster with an abrasive mesh on a bar, controlling the evenness with a rule or level, like a rail. MDF weighs a little, and on liquid nails it keeps tightly on the wall without additional fasteners.

If you need to quickly and inexpensively make an apron for 5 years, then plastic wall panels will do, on the right in fig. It is only necessary to take panels not for living rooms, but for the bathroom; There are also special ones for the kitchen. The difference is primarily in the filler, which gives a white background. In ordinary panels, this is chalk, and in moisture-resistant and not prone to warping, it is marble powder.

For the price, this is not always noticeable, a “marble” board may be cheaper than a coated one. It is useless to ask sellers - at best they will repeat what is written in the specification, and there it is far from always true. But, having wandered, looking closely, you can learn to recognize it yourself by eye.

On marble-filled PVC, firstly, the pattern appears to hang over a slightly iridescent white surface, see picture on the right. However, this effect is weakly expressed, it is better to select it first, and then consider the cut. It will be, firstly, smoother, almost smooth. Secondly, in the direct rays of the Sun, when light falls at a certain angle, the smallest sparkling sparks will be noticeable on the saw cut.

Video: choosing a kitchen apron from channel 1

How to do?

Laying the apron begins with the preparation of the wall. For heavy - glass and ceramic - and light, plastic and MDF, it is produced in different ways. But first of all, you need to know how far, to what level from the floor you need to deal with the wall, because this is not an easy and clean job.

We consider the lower border of the apron simply: the height of the table surface (usually 850 mm) minus the thickness of the tabletop (40-60 mm) minus another 50 mm. It is not necessary to drive it deeper under the table; hanging cabinets may be too low. If a washing machine of a greater height is built into the table, it makes no sense to provide a recess in the apron for it: work or selection of the finished product becomes much more complicated. It is easier to push the machine as far forward as possible so that a strip of tabletop remains behind it.

Further, the standard height of the finished one-piece apron is 600-750 mm. Here there are difficulties. The fact is that splashes of fat from pans fly 800-900 mm, and the recommended height of furniture suspension above the stove is also 900 mm. Therefore, you need to either move the hanging cabinets away from the stove, and install a splash-catching hood, on the left in Fig.

But such solutions are suitable if the apron is tiled. Already with wall panels, if they are with a large pattern, difficulties arise. Finished glass aprons are produced in the form of a flat strip. Buying a very wide one is in vain to hide a lot of money under furniture, and the cropped pattern will lose its expressiveness. Ordering curly cutting will be even more expensive. A more or less acceptable solution is furniture from leading manufacturers with a melamine coating, but it will also have to be cleaned regularly and often until the fat and fumes are eaten after the next cooking.

The size of the apron in length is up to you. There are three selection conditions:

From the plate - at least 900 mm in each direction.
From the sink - the same, at least 600 mm.
If the stove or sink is less than 900 mm from the adjacent wall, the overlap on it is 600 mm or more.

Wall preparation

Under tile or glass, you need to knock down the plaster to the base, and treat it to evenness with a strong cement primer for concrete or stone: Plitonit Grunt, Prospector. They give a rougher surface than Knauf, Ceresit and others “from there”, but in our “oak” way, and this is exactly what is needed.

Under light organic materials, it is enough to wash off the paint and level the plaster, as described above. It is best to wash off with non-volatile washes based on surface-active substances (surfactants). They do not stink and do not give off toxic fumes. There are two types of surfactant washes: liquid, for horizontal surfaces and gel-like for vertical ones. We need a second one on the wall, of course.

Further, for any, except, perhaps, MDF, an apron, the installation of a permanent support under the bottom will be required. Under glass, a support is needed that is strong and at the same time not very rigid, i.e. wooden beam from 40x40 to 60x60, looking at the exit of the rear edge of the tabletop. It is attached to the wall with 6 mm self-tapping screws in dowels. The length of the self-tapping screws is chosen so that they go into the wall by at least 70 mm. Fastening step - 150-250 mm.

To stop under the tile, you can put a thin-walled perforated galvanized corner, it is cheaper than a bar. And it’s easier to fix: with flea screws to the thickness of the plaster, if the tile is plastic, and 20-25 mm into the wall under ceramics.

Laying

Tile

The most difficult thing is laying a slab apron. The fact is that the sizes of tiles of the usual price category differ by 1-1.5 mm. With conventional cladding, this is hidden by using crosses of a standard size - 3-4 mm. By the way, who does not know, crosses are inserted at the corners of adjacent tiles to withstand the width of the seams; removed before grouting.

But wide seams on the apron cannot be done. To maintain hygiene, the apron grout is made with grout mixtures with polymer additives, and for them the maximum joint width is 1.5 mm, otherwise the polymer film stretches, cracks and lets dirt into the seam when it dries. Therefore, 1.5 mm crosses are also needed for the apron.

But if you lay tiles on them, then it will be seen that the seams “walk” both horizontally and vertically. Therefore, you will have to immediately sacrifice a dozen or two crosses, biting off their hangers. What for? The shoulders of the crosses are wedge-shaped, and we need small wedges when laying:

We lay the tiles on tile adhesive with a hardening time of 10-20 minutes.
With a notched trowel, we apply a strip along the length of the apron and the width of the tile height onto the wall from below above the stop.
As soon as it came off (this is after 2-5 minutes), we lay the first row with support on the stop.
We divide the tiles of the first row along the vertical seams with wedges cut from crosses, two per seam.
We level the upper edge of the tiles, driving under the lower wedges.
We wait for the complete setting of the glue and lay the second row in the same way as the first, only the upper edge of the first row will now be the focus.
Each subsequent row is laid in the same way on the completely dried previous one.

With this method of laying, only the upper edges of the horizontal seams will “walk”, which is not so noticeable. And the “buzz” of the seam will not grow as the apron is laid out in height.

Video: laying a tile kitchen apron

Mosaic

If the apron is a full-fledged mosaic panel, then they make it like a mosaic without any features. If the mosaic apron is assembled from ready-made fragments, on a tile or on a fiberglass mesh, then they are laid in the same way as a slab one. The sequence of working operations is illustrated in the figure, and some features are also visible in comparison with tiles, porcelain stoneware or plastic.

Firstly, they are placed not on glue, but on a solution. In the process of work, you may have to slightly move the fragments to fit the borders of the pattern. Plate parts are moved with wedges or knocked out with a rubber mallet; on the grid - just pulling with your fingers. But, if laid on glue, then it will quickly seize, and even plastic from mechanical stress will lose strength.

Secondly, the solution is needed not cement-sand (it is too viscous, you can’t move anything on it) and not gypsum or alabaster (it is fluid, but fragile and sets too quickly), but gypsum-cement with a setting time of 2-6 hours. For the sake of greater fluidity, sand is added to it at least according to the instructions.

Glass

One-piece, without metal fasteners, a glass apron is installed by three people at least. First of all, upwards from the upper edge of the glass by 20-25 mm, holes are drilled into the wall for dowels of self-tapping screws 4-5 mm to a depth of 40-60 mm. Step - 300-600 mm. Dowels are driven into the holes, and paws or washers are prepared for the screws, grabbing the edge of the glass.

Further, holes are drilled in the support beam for the same self-tapping screws. Diameter - the body of the self-tapping screw without thread, depth - 2/3 of the length of the self-tapping screw. Step and indent from the edge - as above. Paws or washers are also prepared in advance for the lower self-tapping screws.

Then they prepare (clean, degrease) the wall and glass for gluing on silicone. A silicone sausage is applied to the wall with a zigzag gun, not an envelope. Zigzag loops - vertical, horizontal ones will be bad to hold, see fig. Loop pitch - 30-40 mm.

Now two people carefully (no need to hurry, the silicone hardens rather slowly) take the glass, and the third (and the fourth, if the apron is more than 1.5 m long) with two hands, crouching, puts two flat screwdrivers on the support bar. The “feeders” carefully place the glass on them and slowly lift the outer edge so that the apron slides into place over the screwdrivers.

When he got up, they press him against the wall and hold him. Meanwhile, the “screwdriver” takes out, without pulling, screwdrivers and manually wraps, until it stops, self-tapping screws with paws / washers, first at the top. After that, the “feeders” can relax a little and move to the sides, so that it would be more convenient for a friend below to work. But you can release the glass only after all the self-tapping screws-holders are wrapped. Remove them only after a double period of complete drying of the glue.

Plastic and MDF

The device of an apron made of plastic plates or MDF is no different from wall cladding without a crate. The apron on the crate not only sticks out their walls too much. In the kitchen, under the crate, children will inevitably settle and harmful microflora with microfauna will multiply.

After installation

When the heavy apron is already in place, the wall is plastered flush with its surface and the furniture is put in place. Light and mosaic aprons are usually made along the opening, without moving the furniture away. When the glue / solution is completely dry, seal the top and sides with silicone along the contour. How to be above the countertop - more on that below.

Finishing touch

Sometime the table will have to be moved away, and it is impossible to stick it to the apron. But then silk will remain, along which the children and dirt will settle down. How to cover it up? Different options are possible here, but the simplest is a side made of countertop material. He is glued to the apron. And the gap between it and the table is plugged with a PVC edging just tight, without any additional fastening. The edging is driven into the slot with a blunt wide flat screwdriver. The second option is a tabletop in one with a side, and an edging between it and an apron, see fig. So nothing needs to be glued to the apron and push the edging. But, if the table moves a little, the dirt will climb down.

About sockets

Sockets hanging in an apron are a common disease of "apron" kitchens. In order for the sockets on the apron to sit firmly, the wiring must be carried out with some features.

What's better?

So, what is the best apron for decorating the kitchen? If there is money for glass - of course, he is. In addition to perfect hygiene, we get a wonderful aesthetics.

An apron is a covering of a part of the wall between the upper and lower cabinets of a kitchen set. Its task is to protect the wall from moisture, hot steam, grease, splashes and any pollution. To make it easier for you to choose, we have compared the most practical and effective workspace finishes according to five important criteria. Tips from professionals on what to make an apron for the kitchen, comparison of the best materials and real photos of beautiful aprons - in this article.

Correct dimensions

Usually kitchen apron height varies from 45 to 60 centimeters. How high it should be in your case depends on the height of the household, the type of stove and the type of headset. It is more convenient for a low hostess to hang the upper modules lower, leaving 40-55 cm between the tabletop and the lower edge of the cabinets. The edges of the finishing material should go under the lower / upper cabinets for a couple of centimeters.

As for the width, most often the entire wall is covered with a decorative coating along the worktop - from edge to edge of kitchen furniture. If you wish, you can limit yourself to small protective inserts only in the sink and hob area.
In a kitchen with a gas stove, the distance between the hob and the hood should be at least 75-80 cm. Consider this ledge in the design of the kitchen.
The apron of a kitchen set without upper cabinets should be brought to the very ceiling.

We select color and design

Decide in advance which apron is better to choose for the kitchen - a bright accent or neutral, which will only become a backdrop for a beautiful set.
A white backsplash (plain or with mosaic inserts, bright tiles and ceramic decors) is easy to combine with a kitchen of any color. Other neutral tones are also popular: milky, creamy, beige, light gray, champagne and ivory.
A dark glossy finish is impractical: drops of water and splashes of grease on it will be especially noticeable.

Photos of kitchen aprons: top 5 best materials

Ceramic tile

The best option in terms of price, quality, durability and convenience. In the decoration of the apron, glazed wall tiles are more often used, less often thin and light porcelain stoneware. The most popular formats are 10x10, 15x15, 20x30 and 20x40 cm, as well as a different-sized "boar".

In the photo: an example of a stylish 10x10 cm tile apron with a patchwork pattern (Baiker collection from Bayker)

The tile has many decors for different tastes and any budget. The surface of ceramics can imitate the texture of stone, wood, metal, concrete.

When choosing a tile for the kitchen on an apron, take a closer look at its texture: rough and embossed is difficult to keep clean, so you should give preference to glossy smooth.

Price. Making a ceramic apron will cost more than plastic, but much cheaper than glass and acrylic stone. In addition to the cost of the material, do not forget to include the cost of leveling compound, glue, grout, sealant and craftsmen in the calculation.

Mounting . Laying should be entrusted to a professional. The work area in a kitchen of any size is always the center of attention, and laying tiles flawlessly without experience is not easy. An important point: ceramics is for a long time. If the design does not like it, it will not be easy to change it.

Durability . Will easily last you 15 years or more.

Moisture resistance. ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

Care . ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

We have collected modern design ideas and photographs of aprons for the kitchen from tiles in real interiors in the selection below:

The original idea of an apron on the wall in the kitchen-living room with a modern interior

Traditional kitchen design in Provence style

Options for a bright kitchen with an apron made of photo tiles

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Strained glass

When choosing a picture or photo in the catalog for an apron for a glass kitchen, consider the color of the facades

A beautiful and practical material, which in many properties is not inferior to ceramics. In the care of a glass apron is easier than it is commonly thought, and heat and moisture do not spoil its appearance.

The kitchen uses durable tempered glass 6 and 8 mm thick with different designs: transparent, painted, tinted, frosted and decorated with photo printing.

Price. Such a finish can hardly be called a budget one: glass panels with photo printing (skins) are noticeably more expensive than tiles and mosaics, not to mention plastic. In addition to the cost of manufacturing an apron, glass and the necessary fasteners, you will have to pay extra for the design (the photo from the catalog will probably need to be finalized), color proofs, installation, cutting holes for sockets and other services that are not obvious to an inexperienced buyer. The most inexpensive option is a transparent protective screen, the wall behind which can be painted with paint or pasted over with beautiful wallpaper.

Mounting . The main advantage of a glass apron is the speed of installation and the absence of "dirty" work - the whole process takes a couple of hours.

Durability . Contrary to the fears of many, such an apron can decorate your kitchen for a long time without losing its attractive appearance. Some companies give a 5 year warranty. Of course, we are talking about a quality product with UV printing with good inks.

Moisture resistance. ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

Care . ★ ★ ★ ★

Fingerprints, water and grease marks are more noticeable on glass than on tiles. But a smooth panel without joints is much easier to clean than to clean out numerous seams. It is enough to regularly wipe it with a damp sponge and soapy water and from time to time use a glass care product.

By choosing a light glass apron for a small kitchen (as in the photo), you will visually expand a small space

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Plastic

The best choice for economy class headsets and temporary repairs, especially if you are going to do it yourself.

A good assortment of inexpensive plastic kitchen aprons is available in Leroy Merlin, OBI and other construction hypermarkets.

There are two finish options:

Furniture panel made of MDF, chipboard and fiberboard, lined with decorative HPL plastic - plain or with wood, ceramic, stone, mosaic decor.
PVC wall panels. Flexible screens are attached to the wall with glue and an aluminum profile. In terms of practicality and durability, MDF and chipboard are inferior: they are thinner, lose color faster, they cannot be installed in kitchens with a gas hob - they are deformed.

Price. The most budget option in our selection. A three-meter plastic panel in the same Leroy Merlin can be purchased for an average of 1.5-2.5 thousand rubles.

Mounting. An important advantage of a plastic apron when repairing a kitchen is an easy installation that even a beginner can handle. It is easy to make holes for sockets and rails in it right during the installation process.

Durability . Of all the materials in our review, this type of apron has the shortest lifespan. Compared to other options, it will lose its “face” the fastest and is unlikely to last more than 3-5 years. But it is easy and inexpensive to replace.

Moisture resistance. ★ ★ ★

According to this indicator, it seriously loses to competing materials. But if you take a high-quality MDF apron and close the joints with the countertop with a plinth, you should not be afraid of problems.

Care . ★ ★ ★ ★

It is enough to wipe the plastic apron with a damp microfiber cloth or a soft sponge. Make sure that water does not flood the edges, otherwise the base of the plate may warp and swell.

MDF kitchen apron with photo printing is best complemented with neutral facades and plain finishes

The wood-look laminate worktop and backsplash are easy to combine with a white kitchen

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Mosaic

The contrasting finish of the mosaic apron will make the kitchen design bright and modern: the “chameleon” material looks different depending on the lighting and perfectly assembles the interior together.

Price. Compared to ceramic tiles and porcelain stoneware, mosaics are a less profitable option for decorating an apron. The installation work and the necessary materials will also cost more: you will have to buy special glue and grout. If you want to save money - choose a tile for a mosaic. It is cheaper and greatly simplifies installation.

Mounting . Grouting numerous seams is a laborious process: it requires experience, time and great accuracy.

Durability . Will last for many years with no problems. The normal service life of a quality material is 20-25 years.

Moisture resistance. ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

Care . ★ ★ ★ ★

See the photos below for examples of real mosaic kitchen aprons (glass, ceramic, stone, metal):

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Fake diamond

Most often, an apron made of artificial stone is combined with a countertop made of the same material.

Price. Perhaps the most expensive design option for the working area in our selection.

Mounting . Requires the work of experienced craftsmen, but there will be no dirt during installation.

Durability . With careful handling, acrylic stone will last you a very long time, but micro-scratches appear over time. To the credit of the material, it is easy to restore: grind cracks and build up chips. After polishing it will be like new.

Moisture resistance. ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

Care . ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

You can learn more about this finishing material.

Figured corian wall panel

Stone apron is more often chosen for classic kitchen 7 MORE PHOTOS CLOSE

Do you like expensive finishing material, and do you plan to do new repairs soon? Do not deny yourself the pleasure - you will admire the beautiful apron every day! Consider different options. Moreover, a typical kitchen needs very little decoration.

In any apartment, the kitchen, in addition to its utilitarian meaning, also has a special sacred meaning - there is a “hearth”, here the family gathers for dinner and not only, here they exchange impressions about the past day, share their thoughts, sometimes arrange friendly gatherings, etc.

There are no trifles in this space, and the question of how to make an apron in the kitchen sometimes becomes very difficult, given modern possibilities.

Kitchen apron - materials for its device

So, an apron is a vertical zone located between the work surface and the wall cabinets of the kitchen, or, alternatively, in their absence, the entire wall. In fact, this is the central zone, which attracts maximum attention. However, this is an area that, due to its location, is constantly polluted.

Therefore, the choice of material and the question of how to finish an apron in the kitchen must be approached from two sides: it must be a practical and durable material that can withstand constant washing, cleaning, including chemical means, and it must also fit into a single concept design of the kitchen room, to please the eye of the household.

Ceramic tiles - traditions and classics rolled into one

The favorite, although slightly off the pedestal, remains ceramic tiles. She is preferred not only for practicality. Modern tiles are distinguished by high aesthetics, a variety of textures, patterns, sizes, shapes, and colors. If the kitchen is equipped with a gas stove, the question of how to make an apron in the kitchen is often solved by itself, since the tile is fireproof.

The main disadvantage, due to which other materials are preferred, is the rather complicated installation process and the time factor. In addition, if you want to replace it, a serious repair of the entire room will be required.

As an option for ceramic tiles, you can use decorative or facing types of bricks or natural stone. For bricks, especially for those types that are difficult to clean, a glass surface can be installed on top of the masonry or covered with a transparent varnish, painted with acrylic paint.

Use of decorative panels

When ordering a kitchen set, experts can advise on how to properly make an apron in the kitchen from MDF. This is a fairly budget option, in addition, its installation does not take much time and does not require special skills. It is attached either to the frame with brackets, or to special glue..

Often such an apron is a continuation of the kitchen set and forms a single whole with it. The color scheme is chosen either to match or contrast. But over time, he may somewhat lose his original appearance, besides, he is afraid of open fire.

The apron can also be made of plastic, the price of which is quite low. But the material is short-lived, easily scratched, and it should be protected from fire and heat exposure.

mosaic apron

A mosaic apron is a real work of art, but it is very difficult to manufacture, so you need to invite a specialist. All its advantages are the same as those of ceramic tiles, only it is worth paying special attention to the seams, since they make up a fairly large surface area..

For them, it is necessary to choose especially durable and moisture-resistant compounds, as an option - epoxy grout.

Modern design options for the kitchen

Glass options are gaining popularity, which have a huge design potential: behind them you can stick photo wallpapers, make collages from photos, etc. The material has no particular shortcomings. It is environmentally friendly, easy to care for, the only thing worth considering is to use only tempered types of glass..

If there is a desire to move away from tendentiousness, you can arrange a mirror version. It will be especially good in a small room, allowing you to visually expand the space or add light.

A high-tech kitchen is unlikely to do without a metal apron. But it requires constant and careful care, all grease stains and smudges are visible on it.

Is it possible to make a kitchen apron yourself

If you know how to make a kitchen apron, then with some experience in construction or repair work, it is easy to mount it yourself.

Apron devices in the kitchen made of ceramic tiles and decorative bricks

To fold the ceramic tile apron, you will need some tools:

tile cutter or angle grinder ("Bulgarian");
spatula with teeth;
rubber spatula;
it is worth stocking up with sandpaper, a sponge or a soft cloth.

Materials:

ceramic tile itself or decorative brick (laying technology is almost identical),
glue,
grout composition.

Advice. Work should begin when the wall is free from wall cabinets, tables and other things are moved away.

Beginning of work:

remove all sockets, insulate the wires, if necessary, drill a place for new ones and bring the wiring there;
it is imperative to prepare the surface of the wall - level, plaster or putty, if necessary, treat with waterproofing solutions, etc., depending on the initial state of the wall;
then marking is performed, based on the fact that the distance between the work surface and the wall cabinets is 50-60 cm;
mark up the layout of the tiles. If you need to lay out a pattern, it is better to fold it on the floor beforehand in order to take into account all the nuances and make adjustments to the layout calculations;
drawing a horizontal line of the bottom row and a vertical one, which is determined from the center, which, as a rule, runs along the center of the stove or hood.

Laying tiles on the wall:

when preparing the adhesive mixture, it is worth considering the speed of work and kneading only the amount that does not have time to harden before it is used. Informs the instructions for the composition in more detail;
using a notched trowel, a layer of glue is applied to the surface of the wall; try to keep the tool at an angle to the surface. You can pre-apply the adhesive composition with an ordinary spatula, and then walk with a notched one - such a lightweight option will help even beginners in this business to lay tiles with their own hands;
laying begins then the center of the bottom row, first in one direction, then in the other. The tile must be gently but firmly pressed against the wall;
after the row is laid out, it is necessary to remove excess glue and move, thus, up;
if an ornament, pattern or panel should be laid out, you need to start from this area;
be sure to form seams between the tiles with “crosses” of the appropriate width;
the extreme tiles or near the sockets need to be cut or cut; for this, a tile cutter or “grinder” is used.

Seam processing is carried out no earlier than the next day:

prepare the grout mixture;
gently apply with a rubber spatula to all seams, carefully filling them, experienced craftsmen sometimes process hard-to-reach places with their fingers, since there is nowhere for the spatula to turn around;
after complete drying of the grout mixture, its remains are very gently removed from the surface of the tile with a damp sponge or soft cloth.

All this will not take so much time, since making an apron in the kitchen turned out to be not so difficult.

Advice. When marking, be sure to add 5 cm above and below to go behind the cabinets, in width, as a rule, it goes 15 - 20 cm outside the working area

Panel apron options

You can independently cope with the device kitchen apron made of MDF, plastic, metal. Many who have not yet decided what kind of apron to make in the kitchen can stop at the glass option, which provides great opportunities to show their design talents.

Installing it is not difficult, the main thing is to follow some rules for the work:

be sure to perfectly align the wall;
installation is carried out only after the installation of kitchen furniture;
take measurements, even division into zones is practiced, for example, in the central part under the hood, the apron should be slightly higher;
order elements in the workshop with obligatory grouting for a snug fit, glass thickness is at least 6 mm and must be tempered;
the background is chosen to your taste, you can use paintings, photo wallpapers, reproductions or make it yourself, showing your artistic talent;
stick the background on the wall using the appropriate adhesives, it is most convenient to work with a self-adhesive film;
glass elements are applied to the wall in order to correctly mark the places for mounting holes;
holes are drilled with a drill or puncher into which dowels are installed for metal fasteners and they themselves;
the panels themselves are hung on the mounts and fixed with wide decorative caps.

Conclusion

So the important problem is solved, what kind of apron to make in the kitchen and how to do it yourself. Now the room has acquired a completely different sound and look. Ennoble and decorate the interior of the house under the power of many. If you have any questions, you may find the answer in the video.

Finishing in the kitchen should not only please the eye, but also be practical. When choosing a material for an apron, you need to pay attention to its size, quality, aesthetic beauty and cost. The distance above the work surface, that is, the countertop and hanging headset cabinets, should be optimal to protect the wall from hot steam, oil splashes, grease and other contaminants. As a rule, finishing is carried out along the entire wall, but quite often it is limited to individual inserts, for example, in the sink area, stoves.

Peculiarities

When choosing an apron model, consider its size. The height of this element is on average from 45 to 60 cm. When choosing certain sizes, it is necessary to build on your own height and type of plate. The fact is that the owners of gas stoves must observe the distance between the hood and the hob from 75-80 cm.

When you install the apron in the kitchen, leave a couple of centimeters under the top and bottom sets, the countertop. The visible joint should be hidden with a plinth or treated with silicone, sealant. This is done so that water does not flow behind the floor cabinet, and its wooden walls do not swell, deform, or provoke the formation of mold and fungus.

Each material has its own characteristics, technical characteristics. So, experts do not recommend the use of unglazed ceramic tiles, because it has a porous structure. If you do not want to deal with the accumulation of grease, moisture, which are difficult to remove from the surface, pay attention to chipboard, glass, Italian tiles, MDF and plastic, artificial stone. All other materials will become an excellent barrier against bacteria and their reproduction. With proper care, the kitchen apron will last a long time.

To facilitate regular maintenance, try to choose the right flat and smooth design without seams or joints.

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Varieties and colors

Often a kitchen apron acts as an excellent design accent in the interior. You can not spend fabulous money on boring facades of a kitchen set, super-washable wallpapers, expensive floors with insulation. It is enough to decorate the apron with high-quality materials in an interesting color scheme. It will certainly attract the eyes of curious guests, it's great to decorate the overall atmosphere of the kitchen. There are a huge number of materials on the market from which you can create a truly artistic masterpiece.

If you do not have enough money to buy elite European materials, you can use their cheaper counterparts. Such a finish made of MDF, chipboard, plastic perfectly imitates wood species, natural stone, creates amazing stained-glass windows, the effect of broken colored glass, etc. When designing an apron, it is important to understand what role it will play in the interior of the kitchen. Sometimes it is a wonderful backdrop for a kitchen set or vice versa. In this zone, you can place a three-dimensional 3D photo print, visually expanding the workspace, giving the kitchen interior a plot.

It can be a seashore, a fascinating skyline, floral still lifes, fantasy scenes, animalistics or any national pattern (Scandinavian, Oriental, Provencal, Azulejo, etc.). White is still considered a universal color for an apron. Plastic panels, glass will look great with a set of any color. So that they do not have a “hospital” boring look, designers advise diluting the snow-white tonality with a color insert from mosaics, ceramic decor, and photo printing. The neutral range also includes a shade of ivory, beige, ivory, milky, cream.

If you stop at a colored apron, be sure to “support” its palette with other interior details. It is best if it goes tone on tone or pattern on pattern with kitchen textile elements: curtains, decorative pillows, and wallpaper. The color of marsala, burgundy, lime, emerald, ultramarine will look incredibly stylish in the kitchen.

If lilac becomes the key color palette for the bedroom, then in the kitchen - rich purple. Strive to use as many natural colors as possible. By the way, there will be all shades of brown, yellow, gray in contrast with black, white, cream, sand, pastel, etc.

Popular finishing materials

One of the most popular materials is ceramic tiles or small format porcelain tiles. They are affordable in price and quality, but more expensive than the option of chipboard, MDF. An order of magnitude higher are aprons made of sustainable glass, artificial stone. The latter are used mainly in country cottages, apartments to maintain the prestige of their property.

Tile

Try to choose tiles with a glossy finish for ease of maintenance. Its shiny surface will reflect light, which will visually expand the area of \u200b\u200bthe kitchen. If small square meters do not favor you, you can use volumetric decors, select relief tile samples, for example, with a 3d effect. For any interior, beige-brown will be a win-win color, regardless of what style surrounds you (classic, kitsch, vintage or art nouveau).

A feature of the tile is that it easily imitates other materials: stone, wood, glass. A popular decoration will be a watercolor drawing or patterns with stains. With them, small dirt, stains are practically not visible. When laying tiles, pay attention to problem areas, seams. Light grout will lose its original color over time. It is important at the stage of the beginning of finishing work to use only high-quality materials with dirt-repellent, moisture-resistant components, for example, like epoxy grout.

You can also choose rectified tiles, in which the distance between the seams does not exceed 2 mm. In this case, the darkened areas during operation will practically not be noticeable. Experts advise choosing tiles with a special coating that perfectly resists aggressive environments. With such a material, it will not be scary to use any chemicals, even with abrasive particles in the composition.

There are a huge number of options for laying Italian tiles. You can choose a checkerboard, traditional or offset. You can arrange it diagonally on the Soviet motif or using the kaleidoscope method (in discordance in colors). If you choose ceramic tiles 10 x 10 cm, then you can do without additional trimming when laying. It looks great in small kitchens.

It will be possible to reduce the time of finishing work with ceramic tiles if you purchase samples of medium size, from 30 x 30 cm and above. They can imitate small tiles, have slots, recesses, but they will fit several times faster.

photo tiles

An apron made with the participation of photo tiles looks unusually fashionable. It will become a unique decoration for the kitchen, will bring individuality, luxury to any interior. You can depict absolutely any print, pattern or drawing above the hob, even your family photo. This decoration will certainly inspire you to cook delicious, mouth-watering dishes for your beloved household.

Glass

If you are a fighter for quality, strength and longevity, look at tempered glass models. It can be decorated at any time with a pattern, for example, from acrylic. The advantage of such a finish will be resistance to pollution, practicality in use, long service life.

The product perfectly "gets along" with the hob, tolerates any temperature fluctuations, and does not allow moisture to pass through. You can decorate glass with drawings of large flowers, images of birds, animals, vintage items, fruits or vegetables, sweets.

The shine of the glass will give the kitchen neatness in any light. It is believed that glass, as well as laminate models, is the most noble type of finish, it always looks concise, expensive, and prestigious. When mounting, it is better to use fasteners. You will not scratch the headsets, facades, so repair and finishing work can be carried out at any stage of construction. Just as popular will be a mirror apron that corrects all the flaws in the geometry of your kitchen.

Mosaic

The exquisite design of the kitchen apron with the help of mosaics is trendy, consists of contrasting shades, non-trivial colors. Mosaic will give a special charm to the kitchen, tenderness and elegance. When installing this design, glue is used, grout, which takes most of the time to “eliminate” the seams. It is also necessary to observe the sequence when laying the mosaic.

Plastic

For lack of sufficient funds, instead of an apron made of natural stone, an Italian fresco, you can resort to hypoallergenic plastic of the economy class category. There are several options for such a kitchen finish:

from plastic based on MDF, chipboard or fiberboard;

the use of decorative hot-pressed plastic;

creating stunning visualization "under the tree", stone and other materials;

using plastic made from polycarbonate.

All models are easy to mount, take care of them, extending their service life every year. You can also consider a budget option made of chipboard and plastic. This design is easy to do with your own hands, replace if necessary. Quite often the material is colorless, transparent. Under it, it will be possible to glue stylish wallpapers, create photo printing.

This model shows excellent resistance to moisture, high temperatures. If you want to get an apron at an affordable price without seams and joints - take into account the chipboard system!

artificial stone

One of the most aesthetically pleasing ideas would be the use of artificial stone. In this case, it is better that the countertop is made of the same material. Despite its high cost, the finish is very popular among wealthy owners of cottages, penthouses, townhouses.

During installation, high-quality work of experienced craftsmen is required, which will create an ideal picture of the interior. Careful handling of this surface guarantees a long service life. The product perfectly tolerates frequent cleaning, including wet.

Design styles

For a loft-style design, a boar tile or a brick model is suitable. It has a rectangular shape and beveled chamfers on the edges, which is why it resembles a brick. This finish will look great in a classic and modern interior. It is possible to choose both a standard version in the size of 10 x 20 cm, and a large format up to 15 x 45 cm.

As a rule, the "boar" is produced in a solid color, with a smooth glossy surface. The coloring is mostly neutral, calm. It is customary to dilute collections of kitchen apron with interesting photo printing, drawings with fruits, berries, sweets and other ideas on a culinary theme.

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For styles of kitsch, eclecticism, mosaic products are suitable. They give the wooden house an atmosphere of well-being, comfort, joy. For luxurious baroque, avant-garde, Romanesque, Mediterranean styles, wall panels are suitable, for which it is important to provide space and symmetry. Pastoral still lifes, landscapes of famous cities (Ancient Greece, Venice, Florence, etc.) are suitable for the Victorian style. Tiles that imitate facings can be complemented by textured patterns, spectacular coatings, and stylized antique ornaments.

The main purpose of an apron in the kitchen is to keep the walls pristine clean and easy to wash them from the inevitable splashes of grease and water. There are several options for making it, but in this article we will focus specifically on a tile kitchen apron, since it is easiest to do it yourself.

The apron should cover the wall area above the work area from the countertop to the wall cabinets (as a rule, this is at least 60 cm), and go a little under the countertop. Above the stove, it must be done to the level of the hood.

If you have not bought a kitchen set yet, make the calculation directly from the marks on the wall. Knowing the dimensions of the selected tile and the area of \u200b\u200bthe apron, it will not be difficult to calculate the required amount by drawing up a drawing. But you need to buy material with a margin of 10-15%, in any case there will be marriage, uneven undercuts and cutouts for sockets.

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Features of a tile apron

First of all, familiarize yourself with the features of this material. Many would not use tiles for an apron if they knew all its pros and cons in advance.

The tile itself is quite easy to wash off fat with the help of special tools. But since after laying seams of 1.5-2 mm are formed, dirt will constantly get into them, which will be very difficult to get out of there. At the same time, wall tiles cannot be laid without seams, so you are guaranteed problems when washing the apron. Based on this, the main recommendation is to use only smooth glossy tiles without relief for the apron, and try to make the seams small (the minimum thickness of the crosses that are on sale is 1 mm).
The next minus is that the tile apron is the most time-consuming of all the other options. You need to have experience in laying and think in advance how to close the pipes, where to make sockets.
The main advantage of this option is low price and durability. But given the cost of work and additional materials for preparation, this is not the most profitable option.

Preparatory stage

As you can see in the photo, a 27 * 40 cm tile was chosen. The visible part of the apron will be 65 cm, and 3 rows of tiles will give a total of 81 cm.

The decision on how to position the apron - from the level of the countertop or below, must be made depending on the pattern of the tile so as not to disturb it. In our case, a collection was purchased with a decor that has a horizontal stripe. Therefore, the size of the offset will depend on how this strip divides the space of the apron. For human perception, it is best to divide the space in half, or according to the law of the golden section (take the total height and multiply it by 0.618).

We will assume that you have already leveled the walls with plaster or drywall in advance. This is also an important step that cannot be ignored and rely on the fact that the glue will save you from curved walls.
Some people think "I'll put a tile on a thick glue, and it will stand up straight for me." You may be able to do this, but any tile adhesive tends to dry out when it hardens. And if the layer size is uneven, when drying, the tile can lead, tear off, tension will be created on its surface.

If the wall is covered with whitewash, it must be removed completely. It is not necessary to remove ordinary oil paint, it will be enough to make notches on it (up to 100 pieces per square meter). They are easily made by a grinder with a concrete disc or a chisel.

Since the tile is quite heavy, you need to remove all the old plaster that does not hold well.

When you make a mark on the bottom row, the profile is set on it. It is needed to support the tile - otherwise the glue will not have time to harden, and it will slide off. Use a laser or water level to fix it perfectly level.

The profile must be set clearly according to the level

Glue application

Before starting work, it is necessary to treat the wall with a deep penetration primer to increase adhesion.
Glue is best applied first on the wall, and then in a small layer on the tile itself, and then peeled off from it, leaving it only in the factory recesses (for better adhesion).
Use a notched trowel to evenly distribute the adhesive on the wall. The size of the teeth must be selected depending on the format and weight of the tile, in this case an 8 mm comb is used.
After applying to the wall, you will have no more than 20 minutes to correct the result - then the adhesive will begin to harden. In total, in a bucket, it can stand for a maximum of a couple of hours.

The adhesive layer should be thin and even. After pressing - no more than 2-3 mm.

Buy tile adhesive at the rate of 5 kg per square meter.

Laying tiles

Holes for wires and sockets

When you get to the wire outlet, you can make a hole with a tile drill. Since wall tiles are much softer than floor tiles, one drill is enough for at least 15-20 holes.
Larger holes for sockets are made using a diamond-coated bit on a drill. But if you have a grinder with a diamond blade on the tile ( the disk must be without holes, and the coating on it must be without serrations) and a little experience, you can make holes with it.
When you glue the tile next to the outlet, it is more convenient to apply the glue not on the wall, but on the tile itself.

Try not to leave glue on the tiles and inside the joints, otherwise it will be difficult to remove when it dries. It's easier to wipe it off with a damp cloth.

Conclusion

The next day, you will need to remove the crosses with a flat screwdriver from the seams and clean the seams from glue residue. After that, you can unscrew the profile and start grouting.