A hand-made circular saw is an excellent tool that allows you to solve a large number of household and other tasks. In fact, it is not difficult to make this device on your own, even in that situation, if you do not have any special skills, the most important thing is to understand at least a little the principle of processing metal alloys.
The materials needed for the job can be found in the home workshop or in the garage. So, circular from a circular saw with your own hands is made of the following elements:
- corner of strong steel;
- rectangular shaped tube;
- engine.
The finished circular saw can be positioned on a workbench. If you do not have one, you will have to make the table yourself. The engine can be taken from an old walk-behind tractor or washing machine.
Circular from an angle grinder
If you have your own "grinder", this is very good. To create a "circular", you need to make an axial handle and a sliding stop to the unit. The design of the sliding stop includes a pair of steel angle pieces placed on the sides of the saw blade. With the help of nuts and bolts, they are connected by a transverse bundle, and the gap between the working part and the sidewalls of the structure will be provided with washers.
On the "grinder", you need to pre-tighten the band clamp made of metal with a screw tie down. Then you need to attach the double-folded metal strip to the holes for the sliding stop. The stand and clamp can be combined, but in this situation the metal strip will be too thick.
Then, in the gearbox of the future tool, you will need to make several holes for the bolts. For this purpose, the body is disassembled, and the points where drilling will take place are indicated. With the help of the holes made, the axial handle is fixed, because the "standard" handle will not allow you to make a good cut, even if the master has very strong hands.
The handle is created from a metal tube or rod... Designs can be shaped like horns or staples. The ends of the element with which it will be attached to the gearbox must be provided with holes for installing fasteners.
You also need to make a barbell that will regulate the process. For this purpose, you need to take a piece of a metal rod, make a loop from one end of it, rivet it slightly and make a hole for the front stop bolt.
From the other end of the rod, you need to make a thread, which will allow you to connect it to the handle. In advance, one strong nut should be screwed onto this thread, and after the structure is assembled, the second. By lowering and pulling them, you can adjust the cutting depth. By the way, if you use a drill instead of a grinder, you can make a similar tool.
Thus, you can independently make a good circular saw out of an ordinary grinder, with which you can cut various materials.
Compact benchtop machine
The above talked about how to assemble a hand circular. Now we will tell you how to turn this device into a stationary one. This process involves the manufacture of a U-shaped bed from a pipe, as well as the installation of a transverse arm. The lower ends of the structure should bend horizontally in the direction of the cut. They are bolted to the table. Stability is provided by additional supports.
Lever mobility provided by cutting the horizontal segment into two identical parts, which are fixed to each other with clamps. The saw blade is attached to the vertical frame element with clamps.
Stationary installation
A machine similar to factory models needs a competent attitude during the assembly process, so you need to take care of all the little things in advance. The desktop version of the "circular" differs from the stationary only in the height of the bed, which is determined by the peculiarities of the work and the size of the future workpieces. One-time processing can be done with an ordinary table saw, which after work can be easily removed to the pantry or shed. But a master who constantly deals with wood will need a stationary installation. Therefore, he needs to make a table for a circular saw with his own hands.
The circular machine has the following advantages:
- Such equipment allows you to make better and deeper cuts.
- The machine is much more convenient than manual equipment.
From the foregoing, we can conclude that circular saws, made independently, have a completely understandable and simple design, and the drawings that can be found on the vastness of the World Wide Web will greatly simplify the process of assembling equipment. Before making a "circular" on your own, you should separately consider all the necessary elements in order to understand the nuances of the functioning and installation of homemade equipment.
Rip sawing fence.
Having perfectly aligned the saw with one of the edges of the table, I attached it with M4 screws. To do this, I had to drill the iron base of the circular in four places.
For installation on a table, in general, any circular is suitable, but if you choose the type of fastening with screws to the base, then it is better to choose a model with an iron base. Cast may crack.
There is another popular way to attach the circular to the table without drilling holes in the base - to attach it using clamps that fix the base, pressing it to the surface. Only to me this method did not seem correct enough in terms of accuracy and reliability of the installation, and I did not apply it.
Another important parameter of the manual circular is the ability to connect a vacuum cleaner. If you cut without a vacuum cleaner, fine wood dust rises into the air.
The disc sawn through to the top of the tabletop. Height - 40mm (160mm Bosh wood disc). The table top reduces the cutting depth by 9 mm. The cutting depth is set on the circular itself. Conveniently, the disc can be completely hidden in the table.
UPD: IMPORTANT! On a number of budget circulars, it may turn out that the disc is tilted imperceptibly. And all the cuts will be chamfered. It is imperative to check with an instrumental square that the disc is at 90 degrees, relative to the table surface. (before installing the saw, you can check the angle relative to the native site. If the disc is not at a right angle and there is no way to set the ideal angle of the site, you can put several strips of tin on one side under the site, achieving an ideal angle (you can use washers for the screws that secure the saw to the table, but this solution is worse)
I placed a saw socket inside the table, which will now be turned on by the start button.
This is how you can connect a vacuum cleaner to the saw. In general, the table is ready and can be cut. (made in one evening and one morning).
Sawing without equipment is of course possible using slats and clamps, but it is inconvenient.
This structure, pressing against the edges of the table and aligning with them, can move along the saw blade. Pressing the rail on the slide, you can easily saw it at exactly 90 o. Thin pieces of wood can be placed inside the sled.
You can even cut a slat like a sausage :) For example, I cut several pieces of different thickness.
Skids solve only part of the problem. For rip sawing, you also need a side fence.
I glued brackets from plywood that will cling to the edge of the table.
Grips the edges with a death grip.
A circular saw is a dangerous tool. In order not to saw off my fingers, I made a simple pusher from the waste of the furniture board.
I have already managed to work with this table, sawed and slats, furniture board, plywood. It became much easier to carry out all these work than I did when sawing off with a hand-held circular saw.
In the future, I will further refine this table:
- I will redo the side fence for rip sawing so that, when moving, it always remains parallel to the blade
- I will put a removable riving knife to which the disc protection will be attached
- I will make a dust extraction from the top of the table. (Now, when I saw, the disc throws wood dust in my face)
- I will finish the improved pusher. I have already started making a more interesting and convenient version of the pusher, I will write about this in the future.
I will gradually implement this in the future, but for now I will work like this.
A stationary circular saw is the machine that every wood craftsman should have in his workshop. With its help, you can quickly and effortlessly cut a board, cut a workpiece of the required size, cut firewood.
A home craftsman is simply obliged to acquire such a machine. It is not necessary to buy it, a homemade circular is guaranteed to cope with the volume of work in a home workshop, while it will cost significantly less.
Circular saw device
A really useful tool, the circular has a fairly simple design. Its main nodes:
- bed - a frame on which the main units are mounted;
- table top with a slot for a disc;
- engine with rotation transmission system;
- cutting tool, disc with teeth.
Optionally, the device can be supplemented with a pusher, which provides translational advancement of the workpiece to the disc, and various lifting mechanisms that regulate the cutting depth.
The principle of operation of a circular saw (circular) is that the rotation of the electric motor shaft is transmitted to the cutting tool, a disk with sharply sharpened teeth. The center of the disc is located below the level of the table top, only its segment is removed from it. The workpiece is fed to the rotating disc, the teeth bite into the wood, creating an even cut.
Simple circular from a grinder or circular saw
An angle grinder (grinder) is one of the most demanded tools of a home craftsman, with its help it is easy to cut metal, clean welded seams. In addition, using a disc for wood instead of a standard abrasive disc, the grinder can be turned into a hand circular saw (it is also called a parquet floor), and by making a bed with a table - into a stationary circular saw.
Necessary accessories
For work you will need:
- multilayer plywood with a thickness of 10 mm or more;
- switch and wire;
- cap bolts;
- screws;
- wooden block 40x40 mm.
You also need to prepare a drill or screwdriver, hammer, screwdriver, pliers, ruler and pencil. With the help of these tools, you have to make a circular with your own hands.
Of course, we must not forget the grinder itself or the hand-held circular saw. At the first stage, it will help to cut the material, and then it will take place as a working body of the circular.
Sequencing
The first step is to make a circular case. Thick plywood is perfect for this, you can use any pressed wood panels. You will need to cut out four rectangular sheets, size 40 x 80 cm. Of these, a box with a square of 80 x 80 cm is assembled at the base. Four bars are installed in the corners for ease of assembly and structural reliability.
From above, the resulting box is closed with a table top. It can be made from the same plywood, but it is better to use some kind of laminated sheet material. This guarantees the durability of the machine, will provide ease of use of a homemade circular.
A cut is made in the tabletop for the disc to exit, holes are drilled on the sides of it for fastening the tool.
The grinder must be securely fixed under the table top. The design of the latch can be very diverse, it all depends on the configuration of the machine itself. The main requirement for the mount is that it must securely hold the grinder, not allowing it to move.
The simplest fastening may look like this: two metal squares, a grinder is fixed between them with a steel clamp.
In the upper shelves of the squares holding the grinder, two holes are drilled. The structure is attached to the tabletop from below using countersunk screws. It remains only to block the power button, connect the grinder through an external switch.
In the same way, you can make a circular from a circular saw with your own hands. In this case, the work is noticeably simplified due to the fact that there is no need to invent a mount. It is enough to make a cutout for the disc, drill holes in the holes of the hand-held circular saw plate.
Miniature machine made from a washing machine engine
The circular is characterized by extreme simplicity and availability of materials for its manufacture. Perhaps the only expensive part is the electric motor. Stationary machines are equipped with a powerful asynchronous motor, which provides cutting of thick wood of any species, but in a home workshop, you can limit yourself to less power.
Note! To cut boards of medium thickness, it is enough to make a circular table driven by a washing machine engine with your own hands.
This design has several advantages. The engine from an old washing machine is inexpensive, moreover, a similar unit will probably be found in the household of a home craftsman. Connecting this motor is not particularly difficult, there is no need to look for circuits or solder. With all this, the power of such a unit is quite enough for most types of work.
The machine diagram can be simplified as much as possible by eliminating the belt drive. In this case, the cutting tool will be attached directly to the motor shaft. The base of the desktop mini-machine will be a frame assembled from a bar with a section of 40 x 40 mm. If desired, it can be welded from a corner or a profile pipe.
As a stand (tabletop) of a circular, a part of the body of an old TV, coated chipboard, is ideal. As practice shows, this part is notable for sufficient strength, and thanks to the varnish coating, it does not prevent the workpiece from sliding.
In the tabletop, with a jigsaw, two parallel cuts are made perpendicular to the cut for the disk. A movable square will slide along them, playing the role of a side stop. It will help you make an even cut, if necessary, at a given angle.
Stationary machine
Those who plan to seriously engage in woodworking should think about making a full-fledged stationary circular saw. It should be a separate unit, mounted on a workbench, equipped with a powerful motor, with the ability to quickly replace the disc. It will take time to make such a circular with your own hands, but it will definitely pay off.
Despite the apparent simplicity of this device, before starting work, it is worth creating a drawing of the machine. This will allow you to clearly see the future unit, choose its optimal configuration.
Stanina
The basis of any machine is the bed, the frame on which all the main parts are mounted. The frame of the circular must be stable and reliable, therefore it is made of metal. It is preferable to use a profile pipe or a thick-walled square. Welding is used to connect parts. If a collapsible design is conceived, a bolted connection is suitable.
It will not be difficult to buy the right material, in any specialized metal store you can pick up both pipes and a square. Those wishing to save money can be recommended to contact scrap metal dealers. You can buy the same thing from them, only cheaper.
Table top
The best material for making professional circular countertops is metal. Steel and aluminum-based alloys are excellent. For a budget option, you can limit yourself to thick plywood covered with sheet iron. In any case, the surface of the countertop must be smooth, resistant to friction and not sag under a weight of up to 50 kg.
A groove is made in the tabletop for the disc. It can be done in two ways. You can make a cut in a solid sheet, or you can assemble a tabletop from two halves. The second method is preferable for a metal tabletop, in which it is difficult to cut through at home.
If you wish, you can make a sawing machine for working outside the workshop, for this it is enough to provide for the possibility of installing a low-power gasoline engine, it can be removable.
Rotation transmission
The optimal drive of the circular is a V-belt drive. Two pulleys are used, one on the engine and one on the drive shaft. It is convenient and safe. There is no direct connection between the motor rotor and the disc; if the tool is jammed, the belt will begin to slip, signaling the need to turn off the power. In addition, using pulleys with several grooves, of different diameters, it is possible to adjust the saw speed, choosing the optimal mode for different woods.
The rotation from the rotor of the motor is transmitted to the shaft. This is one of the most critical parts of the circular. It is unlikely that it will be possible to make a shaft on your own; it is better to buy a ready-made one or order from a turner.
The shaft is mounted on bearings. They should be of a closed type: circular - the sawing place and open ones will not last long.
Pendulum engine mount
Those who can boast of the ability to work with metal can be advised to make a circular with a pendulum engine mount. The main feature of the device is that the motor, shaft and cutting disc are mounted in one common frame. On the one hand, it is hinged to the bed, the other is held in place by a screw with adjustable height. By changing the length of the screw, you can adjust the height of the disc exit from the tabletop.
This system allows you to adjust the cutting height, as well as use discs of different diameters. If, instead of an adjusting screw, you use a dipstick brought to the tabletop, you can get a simple copying machine. The probe will allow you to adjust the cutting depth according to a certain template. This rather simple modification will turn a simple circular saw into a real woodworking machine. With such a device, you can not only cut the board into the necessary blanks, but also make precise cuts, make various samples.
A circular saw is required in private households quite often, but buying an expensive tool for this is not at all necessary. You can make a circular saw with your own hands from available tools.
Basic materials and tools
To create a circular saw, you will need materials:
- pipe (45 mm);
- channel;
- corner "4" and "6";
- boards 30 mm wide;
- metal sheet up to 8 mm thick.
From the nodes you will need:
- engine;
- bearings.
The work cannot do without tools and materials:
- jigsaw;
- turbine;
- screwdriver;
- screwdriver;
- Scotch;
- hammer;
- nippers;
- pliers;
- tape measure and triangle ruler.
How to do it yourself?
A circular electric saw for wood can be made with your own hands from various devices. There is an important condition: you should have the skills to work in metal.
From the grinder
Making a homemade stationary circular saw at home is not difficult. First of all, you should decide on a project, draw a diagram and make a drawing. The differences between stationary and tabletop homemade circular saws are in the height of the base. Before assembling a tool, you should think about creating a "table". It is usually made of wood (the thickness of the board is 3 cm) and covered with tin or aluminum sheet. Also for these purposes, a steel sheet with a thickness of up to 6 mm may be suitable. Crossbars are made from a corner (up to 80 mm).
The working disc protrudes beyond the table, usually by 35%, that is, for a 120 mm thick bar, the disc diameter should be respectively 370 mm. The power plant will need 1000 watts (possibly more). If the blanks are more massive, then a homemade circular may not "take" them. The stop is created from the corner "8" - this is a rather massive and durable structure that can withstand quite significant loads. The stop extends beyond the boundaries of the table by 4-5 cm. One shelf is processed from both sides, the remainder in this case should be equal to the length of the table.
A very important unit is the shaft - it is best to take it ready-made. If you have the skills to work on a lathe, then turning such a part is not very difficult. You will need to buy bearings with protection. It is better to put the pulley with a V-belt. A power plant from a refrigerator or washing machine can be used as an engine. Capacitors are usually installed oil-paper.
After the machine has been assembled from available tools, it should be tested without any stress. All elements must "get used" to each other in order to work in a single complex. During the testing process, some flaws may appear, they will need to be eliminated. For a homemade circular, an engine from a washing machine may be ideal.
Such power plants operate from a 220 volt network, they have good efficiency and an acceptable rotation rate. If you install a three-phase engine (it is powered by 380 volts), you will have to buy additional capacitors in order to reformat the unit for 220 volts. Sometimes units with a gasoline engine are used - such power plants have good efficiency, are unpretentious during operation.
The most important element in a homemade unit is the shaft. You can carve it yourself from a metal ingot. It is not difficult to make such an element on a lathe. At the same time, it is important to observe the centering of the part, so that then there is no unnecessary vibration of the mechanism. Special grooves are machined on the shaft, where the saw blade and pulleys will be attached. Sometimes recesses are also grinded for attaching knives. The size of the saw blade itself is directly related to the power of the engine. The diameter should be 3.5 times the thickness of the product. There are also proven calculations: for 110 mm of material thickness, an engine power of 1 kW will be required.
Craftsmen often make a circular saw together with a jointer on one base. In this case, both tools can work from the same engine. The planer is capable of cleaning a wooden surface to a mirror finish, its presence in combination with a circular is more than appropriate.
From a hand-held circular saw
It is also easy to assemble a circular from a hand-held circular saw. The slide stop can be made from corners that are mounted on both sides of the rotating element (disc with teeth). The slot width is usually up to 5 millimeters. All edges must be processed so that they are slightly rounded. All corners are made with crossbars, which should firmly bind them. Bolts and nuts can be used as fasteners.
A metal clamp should be attached to the body. The turnbuckle is mounted at the bottom of the unit. The clamp (up to 2 mm thick) in conjunction with the C-pillar is a single unit that can withstand significant loads. The stop is fixed at the rear of the unit. The washers that create the gap can be moved by adjusting the size of the slot between the disc and the sides of the stop.
The transmission is best done with liner belts - if a foreign object gets in, then when jammed, such pulleys will slip, which eliminates the likelihood of injury. A pulley with a large size is placed on the engine, a pulley with a smaller diameter is placed on the circular shaft - in this ratio, the optimal number of revolutions is achieved.
From a chainsaw
To make a circular saw from a chainsaw, you will need a metal canopy that will be mounted to the saw body. The engine is already available, so it will not be very difficult to make the unit. You will also need two channels with dimensions of 185x8000 mm. You will also need corners (55 x 100 mm) and two trim rails that turn with the soles up. At the base of the sawmill, holes of 16 mm are drilled, there should be a distance of one meter between them.
Screeds are made from the pipe (length - 255 mm). The fastening of the structure is carried out on bolts. Stands are made separately, the frame of the sawmill will be attached to them. It is important to monitor that all elements do not deform. The distance between the posts should be no more than one meter. Then the sawmill is equipped with a movable carriage. It is made of steel sheet 620x55 mm, corners are welded to the metal from below. Small bearings are mounted on the bogie. At the top, two corners should also be welded, a chainsaw is attached to them. Then a holder is made, which will work as a retainer for a bar or log.
You will need a pipe with a diameter of 45 mm. For work, you will need a hose that will be attached at a given height, which should not be more than the length of the pipe itself. In this way, the sawmill is made. A bar or a log of any section can be processed on such a unit.
From a drill
Drill is a versatile tool from which you can make the following aggregates:
- drilling mini-unit;
- lathe;
- mower;
- impeller.
Locksmiths in the service station even make winches from drills for lifting large enough loads. The drill is also actively used in construction, in particular in painting. Farmers often use a drill to install seedlings into the ground. The drill circular will be compact. To create a tool, you will need the following elements:
- bases from a board with a thickness of 2-3 cm;
- vertical supports;
- the shaft on which the disc is mounted;
- electric drive in the form of a drill.
Instead of a board, you can also use chipboard sheets with a thickness of at least 30 millimeters. On such material, a rectangle with a size of 310x255 mm should be cut out. Also, a 5 mm thick duralumin sheet is required for the desktop. This material is good in that it has an acceptable stiffness coefficient and, at the same time, is light in weight. In the place marked with a marker, a hole of 165x12 mm is cut.
The fasteners for the drill itself can also be made by hand. The saw shaft assembly can be easily found on any construction market. During operation, a lot of dust will arise, so you should look for a bearing with protection - this will significantly prolong the service life. A circular saw from a drill is assembled according to the standard algorithm:
- all main parts are attached to the base;
- then the table is mounted;
- the drill is connected, test tests are done.
The equipment requires compliance with safety measures:
- the place of work should be cleared;
- the workpiece should work smoothly, without any delay;
- the machine must be equipped with a protective screen;
- garbage should not accumulate on the machine, it should be removed in time;
- it is necessary to do a preventive inspection of the unit, to lubricate it.
Such a mechanical device makes it possible to process not only wooden products. If you put good cutters, then you can work with non-ferrous metals, PVC, chipboard, bars.
Homemade gadgets
A circular saw is not so difficult to make, problems can arise when fitting the knots. Choosing the right elements to make them work flawlessly is an important task. The shaft must have self-aligning bearings if the unit is used daily. The bearings themselves are best fitted with two rows of balls, which will be adjusted using a clamping nut.
The working surface must have a "grid" -marking. Without this coordinate system, precise woodworking is quite difficult. The protective cover must not be neglected - during operation it reliably protects the device from mechanical damage. A circular saw, when working with various materials, works in different modes, so it is advisable to have a device that controls a similar process. Several grooves should be made on the shaft so that it is possible to rearrange the pulleys, thus changing the speed.
The parallel stop is a necessary device for working with large-sized workpieces. You can make them yourself from plywood, boards or chipboard. The stop value usually does not exceed 25 mm. The stop is fastened with self-tapping screws or bolts.
When you have to saw bars or make several cuts from different directions, you need a stop that has the "P" configuration. At its base is a board 30 mm thick. Sidewalls 12 mm thick are screwed to the base. Thus, the stop is installed on a bar, the size of which from the cutting point corresponds to the size to the cutting disc. From two sides, it is pressed against the timber with clamps. If the timber is too massive, then rearrange it and make another cut.
There is also an edge stop that is in demand. To do it, it takes a lot of time and a good qualification of the master. Be sure to make a schematic drawing before starting work. This emphasis is made of plywood (20 mm), and a persistent bar is also made from this material. Manufacturing phases:
- longitudinal grooves for dowels are cut;
- the keys are mounted on a thrust bar;
- another groove is cut between the grooves made to secure the stop bar;
- another hole is made at the base, its size corresponds to the circular saw cutter;
The sidewalls are mounted, and there must be latches in order to securely fix it. To place an emphasis on the workpiece, the bar moves in the grooves and is fixed through the slot with clamps. It is best to immediately attach a ruler or tape measure to the bed - this greatly facilitates the work. The pusher is convenient for working with small workpieces - it allows you to clamp the part from both sides, which ensures accuracy in work. It is also important to do:
- elevator;
- riving knife;
- lifting mechanism.
If a three-phase engine (380 volts) is installed on the machine, then capacitors will certainly be required that can withstand a minimum voltage of 620 volts. These devices can be paper-based.
Capacitors are calculated according to the following scheme: per 1000 watts, there is 100 μF for a working type capacitor. The capacity of the starting capacitor must be ordered twice as large. It should be remembered that the SB trigger is a device that automatically returns to its original position. This is very convenient, because literally in a few seconds after the start, you can start a workflow.
- you cannot work with wood in which metal fragments are present (nails, screws, etc.);
- marking of the material is possible only if there are special clamps or substrates (this is especially true for long boards and beams);
- boards and timber from two meters long must be handled by two people;
- when working with a disc, sharp movements or jolts should not be used, otherwise the device may jam, it may break;
- if the material has dimensions from 42 cm, then it is recommended to use a special pusher;
- if the wood is heterogeneous (there are branches and knots), then dissolve it necessary before work;
- always use gloves: both during operation and when cleaning the unit;
- do not accumulate wood waste on the machine - this may cause a fire or a short circuit.
The machine must not be operated under the following circumstances:
- no guide rail;
- no casing;
- too wide gap (from 10 mm);
- there are no fuses (wedging cutter, retaining fingers) that protect the employee from the workpiece that has fallen off;
- the height of the riving knife exceeds the height of the saw blade (from 6 mm), the distance of its mounting (17-110 mm).
The machine must have a chip collector. When working, be sure to use protective goggles. When changing elements on the machine, it must be de-energized.
For information on how to make a circular saw with your own hands, see the next video.
A homemade circular saw is a kind of improvised tool that can cope with a number of construction tasks in a domestic environment. In principle, it will not be difficult to make a circular yourself, even if you do not have any special skills, the main thing is to have at least a little idea about working with metal. The necessary material can usually be found in a garage or home workshop, and a steel corner, a rectangular profile pipe and an engine are suitable here. The assembled circular saw can be put on an existing workbench, or, in the absence of one, you will have to build a table for a circular saw with your own hands. As for the motor, you can use the unit from an old washing machine or walk-behind tractor, but first things first.
Manual device from angle grinder
If the farm has a "grinder", then there is no better device for a hand-held circular saw. Not sure how to make a mini circular saw at home from such a popular tool? Do not despair, because its manufacture means only providing a sliding stop and an axial handle to an existing unit. The sliding stop includes in its design two pieces of a metal corner of a small section, located on both sides of the saw blade. With the help of bolts and nuts, the corners are connected from the front and rear sides with a transverse bundle, and the technological gap between the sidewalls of the thrust structure and the working element will be provided with washers.
It is necessary to put on a metal band clamp on the grinder so that its screw tie is located at the bottom, and a strip of galvanized metal with a hole for a sliding stop, folded in half, is already fixed to it. In principle, a special clamp with a stand can be made as a whole, but in this case, the thickness of the metal strip, ideally, will be at least one and a half millimeters. Further, in the gearbox housing of the future circular, you will have to make a couple of holes for the bolts, for which it is disassembled, and the drilling points are determined. Through the holes made, an axial handle for a circular saw assembled from a grinder is attached, since the existing handle will not allow a high-quality cut, even if the master has remarkable physical strength.
The axial handle, which will be supplied with a circular from the grinder, is made of a metal rod or tube. The design in shape can be a transverse bracket or a kind of horn. The ends of the metal part, with which the handle is attached to the gearbox, are provided with holes for fasteners. There is one important point here: the ends cannot be riveted in order to exclude the deflection of the handle during the work of the circular, assembled by hand. It is also necessary to make an adjusting rod from a piece of metal rod (4 - 6 mm), for which we bend one end into a loop, rivet a little and form a hole for the front bolt of the stop. The uniformity of the gap, as usual, is adjusted with washers.
A thread is cut at the other end of the rod to connect it to the handle. First, one nut is screwed onto the thread, and after the assembly of the structure, the second. By tightening and lowering the nuts of this device for a homemade hand-held circular saw, the depth of cut is adjusted. This is how at home you can convert the grinder into a full-fledged disk tool designed for cutting various materials. By the way, redoing a circular from a drill, you can achieve a similar result.
Desktop Miniature Circular Machine
The mobility of the element is achieved by sawing the horizontal segment into two uniform parts, which are fastened with clamps after installation. A circular saw is fixed to the vertical part of the bed on a clamp. The table from the hand-held circular saw assembly can function as a cut-off machine if a standard cutting disc is installed on the grinder. It is worth noting that the through-cut here will not exceed 80 mm, and for processing larger sawn timber, you will need a more serious homemade circular saw, which will be discussed below.
Stationary machine
A circular saw, as close as possible to factory models, requires a competent approach to assembly, therefore, before making a stationary circular saw, it is necessary to think over everything to the smallest detail. In principle, a tabletop mini circular saw differs from a stationary one in the height of the bed, which directly depends on the nature of the work performed and the dimensions of the workpieces that the device will process. One-time work can be carried out on a compact table saw, while a circular from a hand-held circular saw can be easily hidden in a shed or closet, and a carpenter who constantly manipulates lumber will need a stationary homemade circular. Below is a diagram on which all the elements and accessories for a circular saw of this type are described in detail.
As can be seen from the figure, homemade circulars of this type have an understandable design, and drawings like the one presented above greatly facilitate the process of their assembly. Before making a circular, as well as assembling a circular table with your own hands, we will consider each detail of the unit separately in order to know all the subtleties of its work and installation.
Circular table
A table for a hand-held circular saw with a slot in the center is sometimes converted from a regular kitchen or assembled from beams or metal profiles. Experts strongly recommend covering a table for a circular saw with a sheet of galvanized metal, since an uncoated base is threatened with abrasion in the center from constant friction of lumber, which in turn will negatively affect the quality of the cut, and the depth of cut will be uneven. It is better to make the cross braces that strengthen the sawing table from a steel angle of 60 - 80 mm with a horizontal segment outward in order to simplify the installation of the side limiter. A homemade table on which a circular saw from a circular saw will be installed must be strong and stable, and it must also be securely fixed in a stationary position.
Saw blade
The toothed disk should rise above the surface of the circular table by a maximum of a third of its diameter, otherwise it will not cut the tree properly, and the process itself will become dangerous. If you need to cut a bar with a diameter of, for example, 100 mm, a similar parameter of the cutter should not exceed 350 mm, however, an engine is required here with a power of 1 kW or more. For workpieces with a diameter of more than 150 mm, a mini circular made by hand is unlikely to work. On some factory circular saws, a riving knife is installed behind the blade at a distance of 2 to 3 mm from the saw teeth. It eliminates the jamming moment due to the closing of parts of the sawn workpiece, therefore it can be very useful in the case when a homemade circular is being assembled.
Adjustable side stop
It is possible to put a high-quality stop from a steel corner with a section of about 80 mm, which is 3 - 4 cm longer than the table structure. The flat sides of the corner are bent down so that their width is one and a half cm more than the thickness of the table. After installation, the emphasis is fixed on a homemade circular table in a predetermined position with bolts. The adjustment of this element is carried out according to a template placed between it and the cutter.
Shaft
The shaft installed on the circular is the most critical unit, therefore, only a specialist using special equipment should be engaged in turning and testing it together with a disc. A product made from a pipe with a casually fixed circle is excluded immediately, because the slightest errors in the operation of this element will turn into major troubles such as equipment breakdown, damage to the workpiece and injury to the operator. The optimal solution would be to purchase a ready-made shaft with a seat for the cutter.... It is better to give preference to self-aligning ball bearings, which have a curved inner surface, otherwise a self-made unit will quickly collapse and a shaft installed on a homemade circular will become unusable.
Broadcast
In our case, a V-belt transmission would be an ideal option, but it is better to refuse a rigid gear mechanism, since such a homemade product does not guarantee safety. If a nail is suddenly caught in the lumber, the motor rotor will cause the disc to break, which can lead to injury. If the inner diameter of the belt pulleys is small, then slippage will be ensured, and the tensioned belt will serve as a kind of damper. The gear ratio is usually chosen on the basis of the engine speed, always taking into account the permissible number of disc revolutions. The smaller the diameter of the saw blade, the higher its speed can be, and the cleaner the converted unit will cut.
Motor
Among home-made devices, the most popular is the circular, assembled from the engine from the washing machine. This choice is explained by the fact that its scheme is best suited for such purposes. Unlike the collector units that are usually supplied to the power tool, the engine from the washing machine runs at lower speeds, which means that it shows longer operation, has increased efficiency and is not so susceptible to all sorts of blockages. You can also use a three-phase motor, but then additional costs will be required for the purchase of a starting and working capacitor, therefore it is more economical to get by with a device from a washing machine. That, in general, is all the wisdom.