Making a sofa from spring blocks with your own hands. Do-it-yourself sofa: a step-by-step master class for making upholstered, cabinet and frameless furniture. Design features and required materials

The impression that develops about the whole room depends on the aesthetics of furniture in the house, therefore it is very important to maintain it in good condition. refers to that functional part of it, which is very often in use. In this regard, it quickly wears out and loses not only its attractiveness, but also worse performs its assigned functions. However, in the conditions of financial instability, which each of us faces from time to time, it is not so easy to replace it.

But there is a way out! If you know how to work with certain tools, you can make anything yourself. This will not only save money, but also give you a truly unique and inimitable!

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It's easy enough to create a sofa yourself. But first of all, it is worth deciding on its look and functionality. Depending on this, a design is selected. They are subdivided into and non-folding, but they are distinguished by the following:

a book;
;

;
roll-out;
and others.

We offer you the most common and popular schemes. Also decide on the availability of storage space. Depending on how your structure will be laid out, it is worth purchasing special mechanisms.

Tools and materials

In order to make a sofa by hand, you need certain tools. For work, it is best to use those devices that you have not come across for the first time, or to practice. Before you start creating furniture, make sure you have the following tools with you:

jigsaw;
hacksaw or grinder with a disc for wood;
drill;

;
construction stapler;
and others.

The materials that you need to make such an important and dimensional item depend on its type and functionality. But in any case, you need to purchase:

;
cut board;
plywood of different thicknesses;
upholstery fabric;
foam rubber;

PVA glue;
self-tapping screws;
drill three-stage;
Staples;
and other.

The parameters and quantity depend directly on the manufactured model. It is important that they are of high quality and environmentally friendly. When working with wood, pay attention to the quality of the sanding. It's best to do it yourself. When choosing glue and varnish, do not buy materials containing toxic substances.

Non-folding

Classic canapes are beautiful upholstered furniture that does not transform. You can easily come up with its design yourself. The drawing and assembly diagram of the model can be viewed below. They consist of:

legs;
seat:
soft back;
armrests.

The legs are made of timber or bought in the store ready-made - plastic, iron or from another material. It is necessary to knock down a rectangle with a lid made of boards or chipboard, and then screw on the legs, as indicated in the diagram. Attach a timber or board sheathed with fiberboard or chipboard at the back.

In order for the product to come out soft, we fix the foam rubber with PVA glue. Further, which is fixed with a stapler on the back of the structure.

Particleboard is best suited for the past. In this case, it is enough just to cut out a piece of the desired size, which will be placed on the short sides. It is pasted over with foam rubber. It is important that the top of the strap is overlapped by the bend of the sheet. The next layer is upholstery fabric. It is fixed at the junction of the story with the base.

If you want to make a more functional model, it is worth using a different scheme. A U-shaped fragment is assembled from boards or chipboard. The halves of the movable mechanisms are attached inside, the parts of which are attached to the separately assembled box, which allows it to function easily and correctly. The seat is installed on top of the base. The back of the structure is also attached to it. Cover it all with foam rubber and fabric, as in the first case, or lay and.

It is up to you to decide whether to attach the armrest. True, it is worth noting that its presence can add functionality if it is rectangular in shape with a wide top and, unlike the side and end sides, will not be covered with upholstery. In this case, the armrest can serve as a convenient place for a book or a cup of tea.

Decorating methods

It is important that the furniture is not only functional, but also has an attractive appearance. The main role in the decoration is played by the choice of the upholstery fabric. Today the market offers a wide variety of products, among which the most common are.

Corner furniture will help to competently equip a recreation area in a small living space. It fits perfectly into the geometry of the room, retains the maximum usable area, providing enough space for guests. You can save money on buying furniture of a similar configuration if you assemble a corner sofa with your own hands, showing not only skills in working with various materials, but also the ability of a designer. The main thing is to be extremely careful in work, not to rush, and the result will delight you with beauty and durability.

Assembling a corner sofa with your own hands, if you have the appropriate tools and materials, will not cause difficulties even for novice craftsmen. Such upholstered furniture will help to zone the space of the room. Equipped with spacious drawers, corner sofas can accommodate a variety of household items.

Thinking about whether it is worth spending time looking for the right model in the store or whether it is easier to build a sofa with your own hands, we pay attention to the following points:

self-assembled furniture always fits into the interior of the room, ideally fits in size;
the choice of upholstery colors does not depend on the assortment provided by the manufacturer;
by making a soft corner yourself, you can minimize costs;
collecting a kitchen corner sofa with your own hands, you can personally control the quality of the product so as not to have doubts about its strength and durability.

The main plus of assembling a soft corner sofa with your own hands is aesthetic pleasure, a sense of pride in the work done. During the production process, you can feel like a real designer and acquire useful skills. The positive emotions will be strengthened by the enthusiastic reviews of others.

Materials and tools

To save time and money, a detailed diagram of the device for a corner sofa will help. It is also recommended to make a list of the required materials and tools in advance. In the process of creating furniture you may need:

coniferous timber (used for the frame);
plywood (preferably birch) is needed for sheathing the base;
Fiberboard will come in handy at the stage of installing the bottom and assembling storage boxes;
laminated chipboard is most often used for the manufacture of armrests;
soft materials (foam rubber or synthetic winterizer) are indispensable for padding the back of a sofa or pillows;
upholstery fabrics (dense fabrics impregnated with special water-repellent compounds that protect against excessive contamination);
fasteners (corners, screws, nails);
pull-out mechanisms for drawers;
furniture legs (it is more convenient to use elements on wheels);
consumable material (threads, glue).

One of the important points in the production of a corner sofa with your own hands is the correct selection of the necessary tools:

saw - for cutting large wooden elements;
a screwdriver, without which it is very difficult to quickly assemble any structure;
sewing machine (preferably electric) - for sewing covers;
furniture stapler that allows you to firmly fix the fabric in the right places.

Depending on the complexity of the design, the minimum list of necessary devices can be replenished in the process.

Furniture fittings

Upholstery fabrics

Drawings and diagrams

Competently drawn up drawings and diagrams for assembling a corner sofa with your own hands determine the quality of the final result. Sketches should be as simple and straightforward as possible. The basic principle is to describe the size and location of all the details of the future furniture. After the drawing of the future cushioned corner has been drawn, a detailed diagram of the location of all fasteners, reinforcing parts, partitions, and, if necessary, drawers is signed.

Some recommendations of experts will help you to do everything correctly:

when choosing the dimensions of furniture, it is important to measure in advance the place where it will be installed;
first of all, a sketch is drawn, which must indicate the length of the two halves of the sofa, its depth and the height of the back (this parameter can be arbitrary);
the width of the sofa frame is calculated as the difference between the total length of the two halves and the depth.

The main points that are taken into account when creating a drawing of a sofa:

backrest angle;
dimensions of the entire structure and its individual parts;
the need to install folding mechanisms;
the need to equip storage compartments;
the height of the sofa legs.

Secret from a professional: for the convenience of reading drawings and diagrams, when creating them, you must use different colors for each material.

For example, the base of the timber is shaded with yellow, the surfaces of chipboard are gray, the upholstery with foam rubber is pink. A diagram of the direction of screwing is drawn with red arrows. This will help you quickly navigate and significantly reduce time costs.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

Let's consider step by step how to make a corner sofa with your own hands. In accordance with the previously drawn diagram, the parts should be numbered and laid out as they are put into operation. The smallest items must be set aside separately from the larger items. Sawing of a bar, fiberboard and chipboard panels can be done independently, but it is much easier and faster to order work from professionals. The assembly begins precisely with large parts, gradually building up small elements onto the base.

All components are connected together with screws. To increase strength, each part is first glued, and only then two parts are pulled together.

Wireframe creation

The assembly of the sofa begins with the creation of a frame from a bar. Two long and two short blanks are connected in a rectangle. After the timber is fastened with self-tapping screws, metal corners are attached at the corners. Additional transverse supports are fixed in the center of the back. Thus, the strength of the base of the sofa is achieved.

The bottom of the box of the corner sofa is sewn up with a sheet of fiberboard of the appropriate size. To fix the material, use special small furniture nails or a stapler with staples (which is much easier, faster). The second half and corner insert are made according to the same principle. After all three parts of the corner sofa base are assembled, they are fastened together with bolts and nuts.

A washer in front of the nut will help protect the wood from damage by metal fasteners.

Next, we proceed to create the backrest frame. To do this, you need six beams, the same size, with a cut at an angle relative to the level of the seat. The frame of the structural element is assembled in the same way as the frame of the base. It is important that all parts are mirrored to the elements of the base of the lower part. The backrest frame is fastened at the joints of the timber along the bottom and in the middle. The finished piece of furniture is screwed on with self-tapping screws, after which the facade is closed, cut to size, with a sheet of chipboard or plywood. The upper end is covered with a piece of wood, cut at an angle.

Further, the seat hinges are fixed to the frame (at the rate of three pieces for each element). The hinges are fastened with self-tapping screws at the junctions of the side board and the peppered bar. Fiberboard sheets are fixed on them, which will later become the basis for soft folding seats. The interior of the sofa will be a convenient storage place for a variety of household items. The final step in the assembly of the frame is the sheathing of the fiberboard back and the installation of furniture legs around the perimeter of the corner sofa.

Assemble the frame

Sew up the bottom of the box with a sheet of fiberboard

Fix seats and niche

It is not difficult to upholster the frame of a corner sofa if you strictly follow the following recommendations:

the thickness of the foam rubber for the back and seat must be greater than for the armrests (at least 10 cm);
measurements are carefully taken before opening;
in order not to get confused, it is better to immediately glue the cut out piece of foam rubber to the right place (we use ordinary PVA glue);
you can give the desired bend, the shape of the soft part by cutting off the thickness of the foam rubber in certain areas;
if you want to make a beautiful bend of the back, you can use twine and small pieces of foam rubber, spreading soft material in the right places and clamping it with twine, forming the necessary relief;
before the stage of upholstery with fabric, it is better to cover the foam rubber with a layer of agrotextile.

No need to throw away the foam trim. From them you can cut out small pieces of soft sheathing of suitable size.

Fabric upholstery

The do-it-yourself pattern of covers for a corner sofa consists of individual elements - for upholstery of seats, sidewalls, facade, backrest. Most often, when collecting a corner sofa for the kitchen or living room with your own hands, the following fabrics are used:

Mat is a very durable, abrasion and stain resistant material that allows you to create a surprisingly pleasant to the touch, soft surface. Its undeniable advantage is its durability. Having upholstered furniture with such a fabric, you can forget about changing covers for many years. The mat will report a high density indicator, keeps its shape well, does not wrinkle.
Cotton fabrics attract with naturalness. They are moisture and air permeable, differ in brightness of colors. But when choosing such covers for a corner sofa, you need to be prepared for their frequent replacement. They quickly deteriorate, rub off, lose color. If the corner sofa is going for the kitchen, it is better to refuse natural fabrics of this type.
Flock is a good option. Delicate, velvet to the touch fabric stands out for its practicality due to nylon and nylon threads in the composition, it is resistant to dirt and sunlight. Collecting a sofa in the kitchen with your own hands with flock upholstery, you can be sure that even after a couple of years the covers will look the same as on the first day.
Leather is an expensive material that allows you to create very beautiful, practical furniture. Leather covers for a corner sofa are not only a way to preserve their original appearance as long as possible (they do not fade, do not wear out, are easy to clean), but also an opportunity to add elegance to furniture.

Having measured the sofa, we make a pattern on paper. We redraw the pattern on the fabric and cut out the details (with allowance for the seams). To make the appearance of the upholstery neat, the textiles for the covers are well ironed in advance. The cut material is thrown onto the foam upholstery and secured with a stapler. For lovers of comfort, coziness, do-it-yourself corner folding sofa can be supplemented with soft pillows sewn from the same fabric as the main upholstery.

The sofa in modern apartments is an essential design element. Often, retail stores charge an exorbitant price for good quality furniture that matches the interior in color and shape. Making a sofa with your own hands is much cheaper, and its production will not cause difficulties.

Materials used

Depending on the desired model of the created piece of furniture, the place where it will be installed in the future and its purpose, you can choose completely different materials. Several wooden pallets or pallets can be used to make a simple sofa. Furniture from them is made quite simply, it is cheap and today it is just at the peak of its popularity. One has only to supplement the resulting pallet sofa with soft pillows, and it will turn into an excellent resting place for a loft-style room or become an irreplaceable piece of furniture for installation on the veranda of a country house.

The material for the manufacture of another of the simplest and lowest-cost options for a homemade sofa can be the most ordinary cardboard. Old cardboard boxes, for example, from household appliances, pieces of binding cardboard, corrugated cardboard - anything can go into business. The main difference between such a sofa will be that in this model not a single nail and screw will be used, the parts of the sofa will be fastened together with the help of wood glue. Since cardboard is quite easy to cut, you can get furniture of any shape and size. In addition, such a structure will weigh less than a sofa on a full-fledged wooden frame.

Wooden boards as a material open up a huge field for creativity. From them you can create a full-fledged folding sofa with any chosen mechanism, make both a frameless version and furniture on a strong wooden frame, create a comfortable sleeping bed or just a place for gatherings with friends. The abundance of types of wood offered for sale in specialized stores and the thickness of the boards used allows you to adjust the weight of the finished product, its strength and functional characteristics. Interesting non-standard models of furniture for relaxation can also be made of wood. So, you can easily make a hanging sofa swing. It can be a great option, for example, for a gazebo or veranda. Slow rocking and soft pillows will create a relaxing effect and give a real break from pressing problems.

You can also make a completely new piece of furniture by restoring an old frame. Sanding and impregnating wood with a special solution will help renew old wood material and create the basis for a future project.

In addition to the material for the frame, depending on the model being made, more material for the upholstery may be needed. Here dense upholstery materials, which are most often used for the production of upholstered furniture, come to the rescue. The choice will be determined by the interior design, the amount that the master will be ready to allocate for the materials and functions assigned to the sofa.

Most popular upholstery materials:

Leather- one of the strongest and most durable materials, gives sophistication and solidity to the manufactured furniture, however, it has a high cost and requires special tools to connect parts.
Eco leather- a material that has all the advantages of genuine leather, among the advantages can be identified a lower cost and a larger range of colors.
Leatherette- the cheapest analogue of leather, quite durable, eco-friendly and stylish. Among the disadvantages is the fear of mechanical damage.
Chenille- a comfortable fabric for craftsmen who do not have much experience in sewing, since it does not stretch or slip, but at the same time has a high degree of wear resistance.
Velours- soft and pleasant to the touch material, also refers to materials that are convenient for sewing, however, it also has a significant disadvantage - stains are difficult to remove from such fabric and it is very moody to care for.
Tapestry- dense and durable double-sided fabric with a pattern. You can buy it in absolutely any fabric store, but you need to remember that a sofa with such upholstery does not tolerate direct sunlight, since the fabric burns out quickly enough.
Jacquard- durable, soft-touch material reminiscent of silk. Has a characteristic shine. When choosing, it should be borne in mind that when stitching, the material can slide and you will have to make some efforts to make the product beautiful and neat.

When choosing a material, it is also worth considering how the upholstery will be stitched. If you plan to sew the cover on a regular sewing machine, and not on an industrial one, it is more appropriate to choose thinner fabric materials. When fastening parts made of thick furniture leather or leatherette on a machine that is not designed for heavy materials, there is a risk that the machine will not sew them or even break down.

A homemade sofa, if the idea suggests it, should have a soft, comfortable seat. To do this, you will need a special material - a filler. In its capacity you can use:

Foam rubber- one of the softest furniture fillers, moreover, it has a low cost and is available for purchase in retail stores.
Polyurethane foam or polyurethane foam- a relative of foam rubber, however, it has a denser structure, and therefore furniture filled with polyurethane foam is quite rigid.
Sintepon - soft white synthetic material, most often used as insulation or as a cheap way to soften the surface.
Batting- soft filling with a high cotton content, and therefore it is a material that is good for air permeability.

In addition, a spring block can be installed inside the sofa seat, which will extend the service life and improve the functional qualities of the furniture. The springs for such a block can be dependent and fastened to each other according to the principle of a snake, or they can be independent - in this embodiment, each spring exists separately and has its own individual cover.

If you plan to make the sofa sliding, you definitely need to purchase a layout mechanism. They exist of the following types:

"book";
"Eurobook";
Tick-tock;
"accordion";
"roll-out";
"Dolphin";
"Konrad".

In addition, you need to stock up on self-tapping screws, wood glue, which will easily and firmly glue the wooden frame, you will definitely need thick threads to sew upholstery details.

Of the tools, an electric jigsaw, a screwdriver, a furniture stapler, and a sharp knife for cutting foam rubber will be useful.

How to do it at home?

Any self-made project must start with an idea - choosing a model and determining the purposes for which this piece of furniture will be used. If the sofa is planned to be used as a bed for the main or additional, it is better to opt for a sliding model, in this regard, you need to take care of buying a layout mechanism, choosing a denser and high-quality upholstery material, as well as using a full-fledged spring block at the base of the furniture. If a home-made sofa is used strictly for sitting or as an element of the furnishings of a summer cottage, a garden house, or stands on a terrace, you can experiment with the materials of both the upholstery and, in principle, the entire sofa. Massive sofas from a bar, topical from pallets, unusual from cardboard, with or without armrests - any option can be appropriate and successfully created with your own hands.

So, when the type of the future sofa is selected, its purpose is indicated, a general plan is drawn, the dimensions are outlined, you can start purchasing materials and directly creating what you want.

Do-it-yourself sofa creation includes the following steps:

selection and purchase of materials;
creating a skeleton;
upholstery.

Of course, depending on the type of construction chosen, actions can be changed, added or completely excluded.

From pallets

So, in order to make a sofa from pallets, the most minimal set of materials and tools is required. You will need several pallets, if you wish, they can be sanded and painted in the desired color, a screwdriver, self-tapping screws and a jigsaw, plus material for pillows that will serve as a soft back and seat for such a sofa. For armrests it is necessary to cut the outer parts of the pallets with thick wood inserts. These short parts must be stacked on top of each other and secured with screws, after which the ready-made armrests must be attached to the already prepared base. The best option is 3 cuts, stacked on top of each other, but if desired, their number can be changed, which will help to achieve the desired height of the armrests.

At the base there can be either one pallet or several interconnected with screws, the choice will depend on the size of the sofa you plan to receive in the end.

Further, from foam rubber or other selected material, it is necessary to cut out two rectangles with a sharp knife to the size of the seat of the future sofa. After the foam rubber has been successfully cut, it is necessary to start covering the seat. There are several ways here: the upholstery can be sewn with a typewriter or by hand, as well as secured with a furniture stapler. The same manipulations must be repeated when making foam cushions for the back of the sofa.

If the sofa will stand against the wall, then its production can be completed here, but if it is not meant to lean the sofa against the wall, then the back must be attached to the finished frame. To do this, you need to take one or two more pallets, depending on the amount used to make the seat, and screw it with self-tapping screws and a screwdriver to the back of the sofa, then put the pillows in place and enjoy the homemade interior update.

Homemade "book"

This is a more difficult option to manufacture, requiring more materials, time and effort. It is necessary to start manufacturing by determining the exact dimensions of the future interior element; for convenience, they must be written down on a sketch prepared in advance. In addition, you need to stock up on materials, you will need:

boards with a thickness of 25-30 mm for the manufacture of a frame;
timber;
foam rubber;
synthetic winterizer or batting;
upholstery fabric;
plywood;
legs for the sofa;
mechanism for the sofa;
wooden slats;
glue;
self-tapping screws;
staples for a furniture stapler.

In addition to the above materials, you need to stock up on a certain set of tools. So, you will need:

jigsaw or hacksaw;
furniture stapler;
screwdriver;
roulette;
pencil.

When you have all the materials and tools listed, you can start manufacturing. This production involves a fairly large amount of garbage and dust, so all work is best done in a garden area, street, or in a garage.

The first step is to assemble the frame of the future box for linen, for this it is necessary to assemble a rectangle from the boards of the required length (the length of the box is 30 cm, less than the final length of the sofa together with the armrests). After the main frame is assembled, it is necessary to strengthen it with transverse slats; as a basis, a sheet of plywood is attached to the bottom of the frame using self-tapping screws. From boards of the same length, it is necessary to assemble two more rectangles with transverse reinforcing slats - these will be the seat and back frames of the future sofa. It is necessary to attach wooden slats to these frames with a screwdriver - the basis for the future mattress. It should be remembered that all lamellas must be located at an equal distance from each other.

The next stage is the manufacture of armrests. Four armrests of the selected size and shape are cut out of plywood, then a bar is installed along the perimeter to strengthen the structure in two copies, after which the two remaining forms are fixed over the bar. Further, the individual parts of the sofa frame are assembled into one whole, at the same stage a special layout mechanism is attached.

There are some simple rules to help you build:

In the unfolded state, the distance between the back and the seat of the sofa should not be less than 1 cm;
In a folded structure, the seat should in no case protrude beyond the attached armrests.

Next, the finished frame is pasted over with foam rubber, which must be chosen based on personal preferences, since there is a different structure and thickness of the material. After foam rubber for greater strength and making furniture soft, the frame is sheathed with padding polyester or batting. At this stage, the most creative part of the work begins. Using a sewing machine, it is necessary to sew a cover from an upholstery fabric. Such covers are usually sewn to fit the size of the sofa parts and put on them; shrinkage occurs with the help of zippers.

An alternative to this method is to target the upholstery fabric directly to the frame using staples and a furniture stapler. This method allows you to attach the fabric exactly along the frame with less time. The sofa-book is ready. All that remains is to install it in the most prominent place in the room, perhaps even by building a special podium for it, because a hand-made thing should arouse the pride of the inhabitants and the envy of those who do not have such an exclusive piece of furniture.

New furniture from old

When at home there is an old, sold-out and uncomfortable, but favorite sofa, which is a pity to throw away, you can create a new piece of furniture out of it. First you need to remove the old upholstery, carefully so as not to tear, because in the future it will become a pattern for a new one. Next, remove the filler from the frame (foam rubber, PPU, or any other), if the berth is on the spring block, then remove it too.

Clean off the remnants of the old filler from the frame and sand it with a sandpaper - that's the frame is already completely new. This is followed by the replacement of the springs, if required by the sofa model.

After the new spring block takes its place, it is necessary to return the filling to the sofa - the frame is glued with foam sheets of the required size. The final stage of the transformation will be the banner of the sofa with new material. To do this, you need to cut out the material according to the old pattern, sew the parts, put on the finished cover on the workpiece and shoot it with a furniture stapler. If you wish, you can supplement the new thing with soft pillows made of suitable fabric.

Where to place?

The placement of a homemade sofa is determined by several factors, such as:

Room style;
Functional features of the piece of furniture itself;
The owner's taste preferences.

So, the pallet sofa, which is so relevant today, will fit perfectly on the balcony or terrace, a comfortable stylish seat will revive the interior and you will want to spend more evenings in it, wrapped in a blanket and contemplating the stars in the sky. In addition, such sofas can become a highlight of a Loft-style room.

A do-it-yourself wooden sofa swing can be placed in a gazebo in the country, you just need to remember that since it will be influenced by natural factors, the wood used for manufacturing must be treated with a special protective impregnation. Do-it-yourself folding, full-size sofas with linen boxes can be placed in a bedroom or in a garden house, you just need to choose a suitable upholstery material for making that will look harmonious in the interior of the room.

Simple frameless non-folding sofas will be an excellent option for the kitchen or living room, especially if such a sofa has an angular shape. Here you need to pay special attention to the selection of fabric - it should not absorb odors and be picky about cleaning. You can also treat the upholstery with a special coating that will repel water and reduce the flammability of the material. In addition, in the guest room or on the loggia, you can place furniture made with your own hands from cardboard. However, it is worth remembering that such models are sensitive to moisture and do not accept wet cleaning or the ingress of liquids on them.

However, if the sofa is already created with your own hands, you definitely do not need to hide it, it is boldly necessary to place it in the most conspicuous place in the room, if, of course, when creating it, materials were used that are suitable for the general interior of the room.

First of all, it is necessary to develop a detailed project of the future sofa. Dimensioning, the exact height of the backrest, armrests, seat depth and other important elements should be reflected on the plan. It will be great if it exists in both written and electronic form. When determining the dimensions, it must be remembered that, for example, the height of the seating area directly depends on the location of the furniture, and the kitchen corners are usually slightly higher than those pieces of furniture that are used for relaxation. Once the plan has been developed, attention can be paid to the materials. To create a frame, experts advise paying attention to wooden beams or sections of a profile furniture pipe. With it, the frame will turn out to be even more durable, and the sofa will last a long time.

If foam rubber was chosen for the internal filling, it is necessary to choose not loose and sufficiently thick cuts. The thickness, ideal for homemade furniture, starts at 15 cm, otherwise the foam rubber will need to be replaced too quickly, for which you will have to disassemble the entire structure. The same rule applies to the restoration of old furniture. As for the alteration of old furniture, here the main parting word will be that the sofa must be photographed before disassembly, plus, photos of the disassembly process itself will be useful - this simple action will help in the future to assemble a new similar object, and not guess what and where it is attached.

If the idea to assemble a sofa on your own comes for the first time and there is no experience in this, you should not chase after complex structures, it is better to start with the simplest straight forms. And in order to feel the wood, tools and fabric, it is better to start with an ordinary stool, so to speak, to test strength on it. After all, it is better if something happens to remake a smaller form than large-sized furniture.

Nowadays, furniture stores are literally overflowing with various options for upholstered furniture of domestic and foreign production, but the prices for it do not always please buyers. In addition, the cost of products sometimes clearly does not correspond to the quality of their manufacture. Therefore, in order to purchase a set of furniture or even one piece of it, you have to save up the required amount for several months or go into debt by taking out a loan.

However, there is another option to acquire the necessary interior accessory - to do it, for example, a sofa with your own hands. For those who are at least a little able to work with carpentry tools, it will not be difficult to do this, albeit difficult, but very entertaining work. This publication will present several options for making sofas that can be used in residential premises or in a summer cottage. Of these, it is quite possible to choose the one suitable for a particular case, both in design and in the degree of its complexity. Practice shows that it will take three to four times less money than buying a finished piece of furniture - so why not try to make it yourself.

Unscrupulous manufacturers often make the frame of upholstered furniture from which they have to, since the buyer does not have the opportunity to control the quality of the material. So, for the main frame, unedged bars eaten by the bark beetle are used, and ordinary cardboard is used to shape the backs. Well, the consumer for this literally penny material, lined with more or less decent trim, gives the amount for which you can buy a used car or live comfortably for a whole family for a month. Therefore, after making the calculations and making sure that you can save very decent money, you can get down to business on your own. Basically, the money that will be saved will become the home craftsman's salary for making furniture. In addition, there will be a reason to be proud of your talents in front of relatives and friends.

Tools for the job

Of course, certain tools will be required for work, which will be useful in the household not only for making furniture, but also for carrying out repairs. They will not take up much space in the closet on the balcony, garage or in one of the outbuildings of a private house.

The list of tools required for work includes:

Hand-held circular saw, electric jigsaw and / or hacksaw for wood and metal.
Tape measure, folding rule, building level, square.
or a screwdriver with a set of bits.
Electric drill with a set of drills.
It's great if you have a hand router at your disposal.
File with a coarse cut.
Clamps for temporary fixing of structural elements before their capital fastening.
Chisels
A hammer.
Pliers
Stapler and staples.
A sewing machine for making covers for upholstering a sofa.

It should be noted here that if hand tools are used to build furniture, the work will take much longer, and the accuracy of the edges of the parts being made will not be guaranteed.

Instructions for making multiple sofa models

First option: making a corner sofa

This sofa model can have different options for its size and design features:

For example, the side protruding part of the sofa can be installed on both the left and right sides;

Various mechanisms are used to mount the lower, sliding part;
For the manufacture of a sofa, plywood or board can be used;
Soft parts of the structure can be made of foam rubber and padding polyester, or only padding polyester.
For decorative upholstery, fabric or leatherette is chosen.

Prices for sofas

The dimensions of the sofa depend on the size of the room, the height parameters of its owners, and, of course, their preferences. Taking the dimensions proposed in the drawings, they can be "tried on" to the room where the sofa is planned to be installed, and, if necessary, corrected in one direction or another, within reason.

This drawing will help become a starting point in choosing the size of this piece of furniture. However, you should pay attention to the fact that this model is somewhat different in its design from the version, the manufacture of which will be described in the table. However, the only difference is in fixing the side backrest, which is built into the narrow section of the sofa.

This model is not as easy to manufacture as it might seem at first glance, since the master used special mechanisms for folding the sofa. But, having studied carefully the instructions for assembling it, it is quite possible to figure it out and come to the conclusion that making such a sofa in a standard apartment, and without leaving one room, is a completely achievable goal.

Manufacturing process - step by step

Illustration
	So, the first step is to make calculations and determine the size. This stage will determine not only the comfort of the sofa and its optimal placement in the room, but also the amount of necessary materials and additional structural elements. To begin with, you should draw a sketch of the sofa on a sheet of paper and write out all the necessary construction details, indicating their number. Based on the list compiled, the total amount of materials that will need to be purchased is calculated.
	In this case, for the manufacture of the sofa, the master chose plywood 20 mm thick. However, it can be used in combination with a board with a thickness of 20 ÷ 25 mm. The plank is usually used to assemble the frame of the sofa, which is then sheathed with plywood. If a complex design option is chosen, then the thickness of the plywood for sheathing can be less and be 15 mm.
	As you can see in the illustrations presented, the work can be carried out in the same room where the sofa is planned to be installed. The only thing that needs to be foreseen is a solid base on which plywood and a board for marking and sawing can be laid. It is best to mark and make all the structural details at once, since when cutting wood, naturally, a large amount of sawdust is formed, which can be simultaneously removed from the room without spreading it throughout the apartment. Even better, for the duration of these works, stretch a plastic wrap onto the floors of the room, which, after completion, can be rolled up along with the resulting debris and taken out of the house. With such a simple approach, you can save yourself from small debris, which tends to clog under the baseboards and fly under other furniture.
	The plywood is cut according to the markings using a hand-held circular saw, which guarantees a perfectly even cut of the edge. In the absence of a saw, you can also use an electric jigsaw, but it is more difficult to operate with it, since its cutting part can go to the side. It is recommended to number and sign the finished details of the structure - such foresight will significantly speed up the assembly of the sofa, since you will not have to search and select components for a long time.
	To fasten the parts of the sofa into one structure, it is necessary to prepare self-tapping screws for wood with fine carvings, 50 ÷ 60, 30, 25 and 20 mm long. Here you need to take into account that they will be screwed into the end side of plywood 25 mm thick, so their diameter should not exceed 5 mm. Self-tapping screws should have a regular cap, since they will need to be flush with the wood. To avoid splitting the plywood, it is recommended to drill a hole with a diameter of 3 mm before screwing self-tapping screws into it. Then the fasteners will be screwed in more easily, and the base will remain intact.
	Now that the details of the sofa and fasteners are ready, you can proceed to the assembly of the structure. Since it consists of two sections, the larger one is assembled first.
	The backrest is taken, and the side parts of the lower box are attached to it. They are screwed through the rear wall panel into the end side of the side element with two or three self-tapping screws.
	Now the resulting structure is covered with a sheet of plywood prepared in size. When the sheet is screwed on, this section of the sofa will acquire rigidity and strength.
	The sheet is laid evenly, it moves close to the back wall and is screwed on with self-tapping screws. First, it is attached to the horizontal end surfaces of the side walls of the box, and then, through the back wall, self-tapping screws are screwed into the thickness of the laid sheet. The spacing of the fasteners should be 150 ÷ 180 mm.
	The assembled section is installed in the place where the sofa will be permanently, and they begin to assemble the second, narrow part of the sofa. First, the side walls and the back of the box are assembled together. Self-tapping screws are screwed through the smaller wall and back, which form the width of the section, into the ends of the long sides, with the same pitch of 150 ÷ 180 mm.
	Now you need to screw the bottom to the assembled box. The box is covered with a sheet, leveled and screwed with self-tapping screws with a step of their installation of 200 mm. To fix the bottom, you can use self-tapping screws of a shorter length - 20 ÷ 25 mm, and their caps must be immersed in the plywood surface, otherwise there is a risk of ruining the floor covering with them.
	When assembled, the design of the narrow section of the sofa looks as shown in the photo. When the sofa is ready, the inside of the box can be used to store bedding or other items. However, so that less dust from the floors gets into the box, it is recommended to subsequently sheathe it with a cloth. A thin backing material works well for this.
	Now that the frames of both sections are ready, they need to be tried on to each other. They are installed against the wall and slide between themselves. Next, you need to return to work on the first wide section.
	Since it is planned to make the sofa sliding, for the part that will slide in and fold under the horizontal surface, three plywood parts will be needed - this is a horizontal surface (lounger), a front wall and a strip 30 mm wide. In addition to wooden parts, you will need a special metal folding structure, which can be purchased at a furniture hardware store. Its width is chosen depending on the linear dimensions of the wide section of the sofa. This metal mechanism is fixed to all three wooden parts, which are not held together.
	First, the metal structure is screwed to the inside of the front part, and the rear side, equipped with wheels, is fixed to the plywood strip. The addition test can then be performed. Any block is applied to the upper element of the structure, on which pressure is exerted. In this case, the upper metal shelf of the mechanism should drop to the lower one.
	If the system works well, then you can move on to temporarily securing the top of the resulting folding structure of a sheet of plywood that forms the lounger.
	It is temporarily fixed because it is necessary to determine the location of the metal parts of the mechanism on it, as well as to fit it to the general structure of the sofa. You will have to remove the lounger to lay the foam rubber on it and cover it with fabric.
	So, the sliding part is fitted to the box of the wide section. At this stage, it is important to make sure how well the parts fit together, and whether they freely fit into the space under the lounger of the main section.
	The front side of the pull-out section of the sofa must have the same height as the surface of the lounger in the main section.
	Now you need to check the lifting of that part of the sunbed, which is fixed on the retractable structure, determine the height of the corners along which it will walk, as well as the location of the stopper.
	So that the mobile part does not move out completely, but, reaching the edge of the lower part of the lounger, stops, a rectangular shaped tube is fixed to the edge of the inner side of the wide section. For the convenience of marking its location, and then fixing, the wide section is turned over and laid on the back wall.
	While the section is in an inverted position, a line is also marked on its side walls, on their inner side, along which the guide metal corners are then placed and fixed. Thanks to these elements, the mobile part of the sofa will move out and slide freely. The corners are screwed through the holes pre-drilled in the corners with self-tapping screws 20 mm long. Fastening is carried out with a step of 180 ÷ 200 mm.
	When the pull-out lounger is adjusted to the surface of the main surface of the sofa, the plywood can be removed. So it will be convenient to make another fitting, and then lay the foam rubber on the retractable surface.
	The retractable part is installed with wheels screwed to the plywood strip, on the corners fixed on the sides of the wide section, and slides into the space under its lounger.
	Before making the soft part of the lounger, it is recommended to round off the corners of the plywood a little with a jigsaw, or to process it with a file with a large notch - this will help keep the cladding material from damage. Now you can move on to the trim of the retractable surface of the lounger. For this, foam rubber with a thickness of 100 mm of the required size must be prepared. It is recommended to glue it to the plywood surface. For this purpose, polyurethane glue or "Moment" is suitable, which is dotted onto plywood. A synthetic winterizer is laid on top of the foam rubber.
	The next step is to put on a cladding cover on top of the padding polyester, wrap it on the back side and fix it to it with staples driven in with a stapler.
	When the mobile part of the lounger is sheathed with material, a folding metal structure is screwed back to it. This finished part of the sofa needs to be set aside for now.
	Next, you can move on to covering the plywood base of the lounger for a narrow section of the sofa. A sheet of foam rubber is also glued to it, covered with padding polyester, which is well leveled. After that, the lounger is sheathed with leatherette - it is also fixed to the plywood with staples. The upholstered lounger is also set aside for now.
	The next step is to cover the backs of both sections of the structure with fabric. The corners of the plywood backs also need to be processed with emery, then pieces of padding polyester should be fixed along their edges, after which they are covered with fabric, which is fixed with brackets on the back of the walls.
	Further, the front part of the box and half of the side walls of the narrow section of the sofa are upholstered with leatherette. It is recommended to lay a synthetic winterizer under the cladding material. Sheathing of only these parts of the structure is made because on the sides, closer to the back wall, the side back of the sofa will be fixed on one side, and a wide section will adjoin the other side.
	Since the lounger of the narrow part of the sofa must rise and fall. in the box of this section, special lifting mechanisms are marked and fixed.
	To check the operation of these structural elements, after fixing them to the sides of a narrow box, a plywood strip is alternately stacked and fixed on top of them and pressed down, and then rises. The bar should be springy - this will subsequently ensure easy lifting and lowering of the narrow section lounger.
	If the mechanism works satisfactorily, then in place of the fixed strip, it is installed and screwed to the sheathed soft part of the structure of the narrow section lounger. An assistant will be needed here, since at this stage the lounger must be held at the desired angle.
	Now the pillow covers sewn from leatherette are filled with padding polyester and sewn up. It should be noted here that instead of padding polyester, pillows can be formed from foam rubber.
	Further, the side backs are formed from plywood and wooden slats. They can have a rectangular top or rounded on one or both sides - this design is made at your own request. Some craftsmen, instead of wooden planks, use thick thick cardboard 2 ÷ 2.5 mm thick, which is sprayed with water from a spray bottle before fixing. Wet material is more plastic and easier to shape. After its installation, before sheathing these structural elements, the cardboard must be well dried.
	At the next stage of work, the wooden or plywood-cardboard structure of the side backs is completely upholstered, except for the lower part, with padding polyester. The material is secured with staples.
	The next step is to put on leatherette covers on the backs and fasten them with staples to their lower part.
	The ready-made backrests are installed and fixed on both sides of the overall structure - one on the outside of the narrow one, the other on the wide section.
	The backs are fastened through the walls from the inside of the box with four to five self-tapping screws. In order for the fasteners to fit tightly into the material, the backs must be pressed against the wall, or they must be securely held by an assistant.
	As a result, the sofa structure without removable cushions will look as shown in this illustration.
	To unfold the sofa, it is necessary to push forward the lower part with the sunbed recessed into it.
	Then, raise the lounger to one level with the rest of the cushions using the installed retractable lifting mechanism. It should be noted here that the author of the project went the hard way, choosing a mechanism of a rather complex design for unfolding, requiring precise installation. If such a system was not found or seemed too complicated, then you can do a little differently by making a retractable box with a plywood cover. However, in this case, instead of separate pillows, a double folding mattress is attached to the wide section of the sofa. For a narrow section, two parts of the mattress are provided - the lower one is fixed to the plywood part of the lounger, while the upper one is removable. The latter is simply removed and retracted into the inner space of the section when the sofa is unfolded. Thus, all cushions of the structure will be on the same level. In this case, four wheels will need to be fixed on the sliding part of the sofa, and a stopper should be installed under the plywood lounger of the wide section.
	Another nuance that I would like to clarify. In some models of this type of sofas, the side back, installed on a narrow section, cuts into it, that is, does not go beyond the overall structure. This option is convenient if the sofa must be pressed against the wall by this side, so there will be no space between it and the sofa, in which dust will inevitably accumulate.
	If you choose a model with an integrated side back and mattresses instead of separate pillows on the lounger, the corner sofa will look like this illustration. Moreover, in this case, all pillows are made of foam rubber, which must be covered with padding polyester, and then tucked into fabric or leatherette covers.

Second option: sofa-book

Design features and required materials

This version of the sofa can be called traditional for many Russian apartments and, despite the fact that the model was developed several decades ago, it still remains in demand by buyers. This fact can be explained by the fact that it is simple and reliable in operation, and the mechanism designed for its unfolding is easy to assemble, since it has an understandable uncomplicated design.

Today, the task of making such a sofa is also simplified by the fact that a large selection of fittings is presented in modern furniture stores.

For example, fiberboard, which was previously used for covering the structure, can be replaced with lamellas designed specifically for installation on sun loungers of beds and sofas. They not only perfectly replace sheet material, but also compensate for the softness of the structure, as they tend to spring. Thanks to this quality of the parts, the thickness of the mattresses can be reduced.

The structure, which will be presented below, must be manufactured and assembled in accordance with these recommendations, but the design, as well as the shape of the side backs, can be made according to your own sketches, but observing the basic dimensions.

So, the sofa book consists of the following elements - a backrest, a reclining seat, side backs and a box for storing bedding or other things.

To make a sofa of this design, you will need:

Board with a thickness of 20 ÷ 25 and a width of 200 mm for the frame of the sofa.
A bar with a cross section of 50 × 50, 60 × 40 and 50 × 30 mm.
Fiberboard 4 ÷ 5 mm thick.
32 furniture slats 65 mm wide, 500 mm long.
Foam rubber and synthetic winterizer.
Upholstery fabric.
Sofa folding mechanism (double).
Legs.

Illustrated step-by-step manufacturing instructions

The first step is to draw up a sketch drawing of the sofa and put down the dimensions of all parts on it. Having such a graphic document in front of your eyes, it will be much easier to make all the necessary structural elements.

Illustration	Brief description of the performed operation
	The assembly of the sofa box is carried out first. Its size should be 1900 × 800 mm. Moreover, first, bars are fixed to the long parts of the box, along their edges - they are screwed with self-tapping screws 60 mm long. In the next step, the side parts are screwed to the inner sides of the bars fixed on the long walls of the box. Before the final tightening of the fastening screws, it is recommended to measure the box diagonals - they must have the same size.
	The next step, to give the structure rigidity, in the middle part of the bottom area of the box from the outside are screwed on two transverse bars with a cross section of 50 × 30 mm and a length of 800 mm. They are installed at a distance of 650 mm from the edge and 600 mm between themselves. In order for the bars to be fixed flush with the underside of the box, grooves 55 mm wide and 30 mm deep are cut in the boards at a specified distance from each other. In these grooves and fit, and then the transverse bars are fixed. After the box is assembled, its bottom is sheathed with a sheet of fiberboard, the size of which is 1800 × 800 mm. Fixing the sheet on the frame can be done with staples, nails or self-tapping screws 20 mm long.
	The next step is the back and seat frames - their design has the same linear parameters. For their manufacture, a bar with a cross section of 50 × 40 mm is prepared. Seven parts of the following sizes are cut out of it: 3 pcs. - 650 mm; 2 pcs. - 400 mm, 1 pc. - 1890 mm and 1 pc. - 1880 mm. The assembly of the frames takes place in the following sequence: first, on a beam with a length of 1890 mm, 50 mm are deposited from its edges. Bars 650 mm long will be fixed in these places. Their other side is fixed along the edges of the timber, which has a length of 1880 mm. Then, on the long bars, their middle is determined and the middle crosspiece is installed. Further, elements with a length of 400 mm are attached to the free edges of the longest bar. In addition, they are screwed with self-tapping screws 70 ÷ 80 mm long to the extreme short transverse bars. These elements, before fastening, in the upper part are cut at an angle of 30 degrees. They will be located at the front of the lounger and at the top of the back. When unfolding the sofa, the side back will have to be between these protrusions of the structure.
	The simplest connection of a bar is half a tree, that is, in each bar at the place of its connection with the perpendicular, half of its thickness is cut out at the corners. In our case, this is 20 mm, that is, the groove should have a size of 50 × 50 × 20 mm. To install the middle bar, from each of its edges, as well as in a place marked on a long bar, a place is also cut out 20 mm thick, and the groove must also have the size indicated above. Then the cross bar is first glued into the groove, and then screwed with two self-tapping screws 30 mm long, with their diagonal position. It must be said that it is possible to fasten the structural elements with other connections, but this is one of the simplest.
	Further, the long sides of the frame are marked for the installation of lamellas, the distance between which should be 60 mm. According to the marking, metal or plastic brackets with grooves are fixed, which come with the lamellas. After they are fixed on the backrest and lounger frame, the edges of the lamellas are inserted into them.
	The next step is to manufacture the side armrests. First, according to the dimensions shown in the illustration, four identical parts are marked, drawn and cut out.
	Then the two cut out parts are stacked in a mirror image to each other and marked out. According to this marking, bars with a thickness of 50 mm are fixed. To begin with, you can glue them with wood glue. Their width can be the same or different, the main thing is that in the places where they will be attached to the sofa box, the beam has a width of at least 80 ÷ 100 mm, since holes for fixing bolts with a size of 120 × 8 mm will be drilled in them. The holes for the bolts are drilled immediately after the glue dries, on which the frame bar is fixed, at a height of 150 mm from the bottom of the side backrest. Further, the frame is covered with a second part of the same cut from fiberboard, which is nailed to it with nails 30 mm long. After that, the sides are turned over, and the other side of the fiberboard is also nailed and holes are drilled in it.
	Further, in the side walls of the box, at a height of 150 mm, with an indent from the edge of 100 mm, holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled to secure the side walls. In addition, at this stage, it is most convenient to screw the sofa legs to the box, since after fixing the rest of the elements, it will be more difficult to turn the box over.
	In the next step, folding mechanisms are fixed on the back, lounger and box. A diagram of their installation is shown in this illustration. Fixation of metal elements is carried out using bolts, for which holes are drilled in the side walls of the structures. In addition to bolts, self-tapping screws are used to fix the mechanism - they, for example, additionally attach corner pads to the back and seat frames.
	To begin with, you need to find the middle on the side wall of the box, 5 mm are deposited in each side of it, at this distance from the middle the back and the lounger are laid. A mechanism is attached to them and marks are made on all the details of the sofa, along which holes will be drilled. Further, the mechanism is fixed on all parts of the sofa.
	After the folding system is fixed, you need to try on the side backs to the sofa. But so far they are not screwed, since before that it will be necessary to cover them.
	The upholstery is made starting from the back and lounger. To do this, the sofa is laid out and first non-woven linen is laid on the lamellas, then a thin synthetic winterizer, and on top of it - foam rubber 50 mm thick. To prevent the foam from interfering with folding and unfolding of the sofa, its corners adjacent to the mechanism are cut out as shown in this illustration.
	To make the back and lounger more comfortable for sitting, additional foam strips, 200 mm wide and 20 ÷ 25 mm thick, are glued to their edges on top of the laid foam rubber. Then, the entire flooring is covered with another sheet of foam rubber, 20 mm thick, but having a large width, so that it can be bent under the thickness of the lounger structure and behind the back. There the foam is fixed with staples using a stapler
	The foam rubber fixed to the frame is covered with a thin layer of padding polyester - these materials adhere well to each other without the use of glue. After that, on top of the backrest and lounger, sewn-to-size covers are put on, which are nailed to the wooden structural elements with staples. If desired, buttons trimmed with the same material are installed in several places of the sofa with strong cords inserted through them, which are threaded through the casing and tied by the lamellas, and their ends are aimed at the wooden structural elements with staples. After the planking of the lounger and the back of the structure, the upholstery is also fixed on the front side of the base-box.
	Next, they move on to work on the side backs. The first step is foam rubber is glued to the upper side. On the rise and in the upper part, the foam rubber should be 50 mm thick, and in the lower area where the hand will lie - 80 mm. It should look something like the one shown in the photo.
	In the next step, the armrest of the side back is covered with 20 mm thick foam rubber, which is nailed to the fiberboard with staples.
	On top of the foam rubber fixed on the armrest, another foam rubber sheet with a thickness of 20 mm is fixed. It should protrude from the front of the armrest by about 100 mm.
	The front protruding part of the foam rubber is bent and stapled with staples to the front of the side back frame. Further, it is recommended to cover the foam rubber on the armrest, as well as the entire area of the walls located below the padding polyester, which is also nailed with staples.
	Before performing the next operation, bolts are inserted into the holes drilled in the side backs, onto which washers are put on. The next step is to cut out pieces of fabric of the desired size and shape, and then, the walls of the sides are sheathed with them. First, the fabric is nailed with staples at the top, and then tucked under the bottom of the backrest and secured there.
	Further, armrests are covered with separate pieces of fabric. These sections are fixed under the armrests, on top of the already fixed fabric, first from the outside and then from the inside of the armrest. After that, the fabric is neatly gathered into folds and fixed with a stapler from the front part of the side backs, and from above it is closed with a wooden decorative overlay, which, like all accessories, can be purchased at a specialized store. It remains only to screw the side backs to the lower box through the holes drilled earlier. This process is carried out from within the frame structure.
	When unfolded, the made sofa-book looks as shown in this illustration.

Prices for corner sofas

corner sofas

Find out a few of the options available from our new article on our portal.

The third option is a sofa for a summer residence from an old bath

Design features and required materials

An old bath after major repairs often becomes an unnecessary burden. Usually it is taken to a landfill or dacha and left to rot in the far corner of the site. In the best case, water is heated in it for irrigation of especially whimsical plants. At the same time, a lot of money is spent on purchasing garden furniture. At the same time, not many people know that from a bathtub, which has served in its main role for the allotted period, it may well turn out to be a comfortable and original sofa that will perfectly fit into the landscape design of the territory and will last for very many years.

Such an unusual piece of furniture can be installed outdoors, on a terrace, in a gazebo or. With the proper design, it will not spoil such a sofa and the interior of a country house.

In order to make such a sofa, both cast iron and steel bathtubs are suitable. Of course, cast iron is more difficult to work with, and moving such a piece of furniture from place to place is also not easy. But on the other hand, there are no special problems with a steel bathroom. Sofas made from old bathtubs will last for many years if you work on them well. Moreover, what design and color to choose for the sofa - the master is determined by himself. The most important thing in the manufacturing process is preparing the base for applying paint, cutting out the excess part and processing the edges after trimming them.

Check out the unusual, inexpensive and highly practical do-it-yourself production in a new article on our portal.

Step-by-step instructions for making a sofa from a cast iron bath

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	In this version, for the manufacture of the sofa, an old cast-iron bathtub with legs-paws is used, which are always the decoration of this accessory, and we will not throw them away. The illustration shows that the enamel coating of the container is in a very unenviable condition. In all likelihood, she had been lying in an unheated barn for more than one year, or even lying near a fence in the open air.
	Cracked enamel and the resulting corrosion stains will definitely have to be removed from the bath surface. Since the cast-iron surface is not perfectly smooth, unlike a steel bath, you will have to work hard on it to remove all old dirt, cracked enamel remnants, pieces of scale from it and give it an aesthetic appearance.
	The legs were fastened to this model with the help of bolts, which, during the operation of the bathtub and waiting for its "renaissance" in the form of an original sofa, became very rusted, and one can hardly hope that they will be unscrewed without the use of special means. Therefore, in order not to complicate the process and not to spoil the thread, a compound (for example, WD-40) is sprayed onto the mount, which helps soften the rust. Then this area is left for some time indicated on the cylinder by the manufacturer. After this time, the nuts from the bolts should twist off without difficulty. The same agent should be used to treat other threaded parts, which must be removed before cleaning and painting the container.
	Before proceeding to cleaning the surface, a marking is made, along which a cutout of the front of the bath will be made. In this case, a cutout had already been made in one of the edges of the bathtub, apparently, this had to be resorted to to carry out the water pipes when installing the mixer. So that this man-made flaw does not spoil the entire appearance of the structure being created, the marking of the cutout is made from this side.
	To mark the bath, a square and a dark marker are used, which will be clearly visible on a light surface. To begin with, the lower part of the cut is determined - for this, a square is attached to the bath, and a perpendicular line is drawn along which it will be easier to navigate, making a slope at a greater or lesser angle.
	Further, the exact lines are outlined along which the cut will be made on one and the other side of the container. Since the bathtub has a curved surface, and the cutouts should be in harmony with each other, repeating the shape of the container, you can measure the required distance from the vertical line of the right angle using a tape measure or a square, first in height, and then to the side. One way or another, the lines on both sides will be located at different angles.
	Having determined the exact outer line, it must be repeated on the inner surface of the container, since when cutting, work will be carried out both from the outside and from the inside of the bath. It is rather difficult to determine the right angle from the inside of the curved surface, so the transfer of the line will have to be done, so to speak, by eye. However, special accuracy is not required from the master here - the curvature of the lines is still necessary, and everything depends to a large extent on the subsequent processing of the cut edge.
	The second side of the container, where the drain holes are located, is not so curved - it is closer to the right corner. But it is impossible to make the cutout exactly rectangular, otherwise the visual balance of the structure will be lost. Therefore, relying on a vertical straight line, and taking into account the angle of the notch that was found for the other side, the slope is also determined for the second side of the container. When the optimal slope is found, the lower points of the lines of the two sides are connected by a horizontal line.
	Now the grinder comes into operation with a metal disc installed on it. There are no problems with steel, but the task of cutting cast iron is a very difficult task, one might say - delicate. One cannot praise the master who demonstrates cutting in these illustrations - it is imperative to attach a protective cover to the tool, since it is not known how such a heavy and brittle metal as cast iron will behave. It happens that when cutting it, the circle begins to break, and this is very dangerous. The casing, of course, obscures the view somewhat, so the cut must be done very carefully. Cast iron is cut very carefully, while it is imperative to protect the face by wearing a special mask, as the disc may be damaged or part of the metal being cut may fly off. There is no need to rush, since it is not difficult during this process to overheat the grinder and completely render it unusable. So it is better to cut in small sections, 100 - 150 mm each, allowing the tool to rest and cool down. First, a cut line is drawn from the inside, on the curved sides of the bath. Further, the cut is made from the outside of the container along the previously drawn line.
	It is very difficult to cut high-quality bath enamel if the cut is made from the inside. So the work is best done from the outside of the tub. If you have to cut some area precisely on the enamel, then it is better to first install the diamond wheel, and carefully clean the enamel along the cutting line with it. And then proceed to work with a cutting wheel for metal. Having cut out one side of the bath, starting from the upper rim, they go to its second side, to the drawn lower horizontal line.
	Now it remains to make a cut horizontally, and the first, perhaps the most difficult and dangerous stage of the work will be completed. For convenience, the bath is laid on its side, and then, if necessary, props are installed under it, since when cutting, it must stand very stable on the surface. Basically, this applies to steel baths, since they have less weight, while the cast-iron version usually fits snugly to the surface under its own weight.
	This is how the bathtub will look like, from which the fragment, unnecessary in this case, has been cut. Now, you can move on to a less complex, but very messy operation.
	Further, there is a mandatory process of leveling and grinding the cut, since the edge must be even and smooth, otherwise you can seriously injure yourself about its notches. The work is carried out with the same grinder. First, a metal cutting disc is installed on it, with the help of which the remaining metal burrs are cut off.
	Then, the edge is finished with a sanding disc. The edge of the cut and its lateral parts are ground. If the sofa is made of a steel bathtub, its cut edge can be flanged down a little, since the metal is thin, and its cut will remain sharp even after grinding.
	Further, the outer surface of the bath is cleaned with a metal brush installed on a grinder, and then with an emery disc. The dust formed on its surface is collected with a vacuum cleaner. After that, the outer side of the container is covered with a primer composition intended for processing metal products. Apply a layer of primer carefully using a soft brush, as the substance must get into all the pores of the cast-iron surface. The primer should dry well, after which the surface is again smoothed with an emery disk with a medium grain. After cleaning, dust is also collected with a vacuum cleaner. The previously removed legs of the tub can be thoroughly cleaned and primed immediately, as shown in the illustration.
	Proceed to the next operation - the first layer of paint of the selected color is applied to the outer surface of the bath. The paint must be chosen for external work, intended for metal. It will prevent the emergence and spread of corrosion foci under the influence of the external environment.
	After applying paint, smudges formed on the surface of the bathtub must be removed with a soft cloth, leveling the paint layer with it. The napkin is applied to the desired areas of the surface and pressed against the metal, collecting excess paint.
	When the paint dries, another layer is applied on top of it, which will make the outer surface of the bath (that is, sorry, the sofa) smoother, which will reduce the risk of trapping dust and dirt particles on it. This is especially important if the sofa is planned to be installed outdoors.
	The legs of the bathtub and their mountings must also be well cleaned of rust - as we have already seen, their treatment is usually carried out at the stage of priming the bathtub. Cleaning, however, will have to be done manually. Then all the details are treated with a primer, dried, cleaned and painted, possibly in a color contrasting with the rest of the bath surface. After that, the legs are fixed to the bath using a threaded connection. If possible or necessary, fasteners are replaced with new ones.
	Now they move on to work on the inner surface of the trimmed bath. The first step is to repair the chips that have formed along the edge when cutting the metal. For this purpose, an epoxy or polyurethane two-component putty is well suited, which is applied along the inner edge of the bath with a spatula. The putty is leveled and left to dry completely.
	When the putty is dry, the area where it was applied should be well cleaned and then sanded with, for example, an eccentric sander with various grit sanding attachments. If there is no such tool, then you will have to work by hand - with sandpaper.
	Further, the entire inner surface, after cleaning, is covered with a primer and left to dry. It is very important to properly process the holes that are in any bathtub, as corrosive processes can begin to spread from them. In order to prevent the primer and then the paint from getting on the outside of the container, paper is fixed on all edges of the masking tape, which is removed only after all the work is completed.
	When the primer is completely dry, all surfaces are cleaned with an eccentric sander with an emery nozzle. The primer should be rubbed into the cast iron surface.
	Further, the inner surface is covered with metal enamel. It is best sprayed with a spray gun, but it can also be applied with a brush. If painting will be carried out by hand, then the paint must be slightly diluted with a solvent and applied, taking a small amount of the coloring composition onto the brush. Only in this case the paint layer will turn out to be even. Some craftsmen apply paint with a sponge, which is dipped in the paint and then pressed to the surface. This process is quite lengthy, but with the help of a similar technique, original stains with shade transitions can be reproduced on the surface. In addition, the inside of the bathroom will acquire a pleasant roughness.
	Now it is worth considering making a mattress that will be laid on the bottom of the sofa. All such soft parts can be made both before and after staining and drying the container. But in order for the mattress to fit perfectly on the bottom of the bathtub, you need to remove the dimensions from it in place, that is, lay a rectangular sheet of foam rubber, cut to size, and then round its corners in accordance with the shape of the bottom of the sofa. A sharp utility knife and scissors can be used for this job.
	The cut out foam rubber is laid on the fabric from which the cover will be made. On the fabric, the foam rubber is outlined with a marker, and when cutting the material, 10 mm is taken into account per seam, that is, 10 mm in the larger direction recedes from the line left on the fabric with a marker. Two such parts will be required, and besides them, a strip of the same or another material will be needed equal to the thickness of the mattress plus 10 mm on each of its sides.
	You also need to cut two ribbons 30 mm wide and a length that is equal to the edge of the mattress, plus 20 mm for the seam. In addition, you will need to prepare a cord that will be sewn into the tape - it is necessary to maintain the shape of the mattress. The tape is bent in half, a cord is inserted into it and secured with sewing pins, after which the tape is sewn on a typewriter along the fastening line.
	Further, the resulting edges are fixed on each main fabric part of the future cover, with the same pins and sewn to them on a typewriter, after which the pins are removed. After that, the parts are aligned with the front side inward. Then, first, a side tape is pinned to one part from the seamy side so that the edge of the edging with the cord sewn into it is on the front side. Then, the combined parts are sewn together on a typewriter. Further, the second side of the tape is pinned to the second part of the cover and is also sewn, but only on three sides. The fourth side will be hand-sewn after the cover is placed over the foam.
	The finished mattress should fit perfectly into the bottom of the sofa made from the bathtub.
	If desired, the back of the bathtub can also be equipped with a soft support cushion by gluing it onto polyurethane or epoxy glue. If the goal is to get a sofa with a completely soft inner surface, then you can sew a removable insert from foam rubber and fabric, which will completely cover the entire structure from the inside. Here already - the widest scope for creativity.

It remains only to note that if you turn on your imagination, then not only a sofa, but also an armchair, table and other furniture accessories can be made from the bath.

Prices for popular sofas

inexpensive sofa

Read interesting information about a new life for old things in the new article -

Now that you have studied the detailed instructions for making three different types of sofas, you can decide on the choice of the right model in accordance with the planned installation location and the intended functionality of this piece of furniture.

And at the end of the publication - a demonstration of the manufacturing process of another original and relatively simple sofa model.

Video: Self-production of the original sofa

The sofa is the heart of the home. It serves as an element of interior decor, helps to relax after a hard day at work. A sofa is not just a piece of furniture. It will certainly become the hallmark of the house and the center of attention of your guests.

In this article, you will learn how to make a sofa with your own hands no worse, and perhaps even better than those sold in furniture stores. You will see what elements the sofa consists of and what materials are most often used in the manufacturing process.

Do not forget that homemade furniture saves the lion's share of the family budget. If you decide, for example, to make a sofa yourself, its cost will be two or even five times lower than the market price!

However, it depends on the selected materials and the specific design taken. A fold-out sofa will cost more, but if this is your first product, opt for the project described in this article - it is perfect for those who set out to learn how to make upholstered furniture.

Make a sofa with your own hands - and you will be convinced by your own example that there is nothing complicated about it!

So let's get started.

To work you will need the following materials and tools:

1. Tools:
- jigsaw. If you do not have a jigsaw, it does not matter: use a hacksaw for wood, especially since it will be useful to you in the process of sawing bars;
- pneumatic furniture stapler. If you intend to make only one product, use a mechanical stapler - it will cost less;
- screwdriver;
- grinder or plane for grinding sharp corners of the frame;
- staple remover or sharp screwdriver;
- a sharp knife for cutting foam rubber;
- scissors;
- a sewing machine for sewing together elements of the sofa upholstery;
- roulette.

2. Materials:
- bars with a cross section of 40-50 mm;
- plywood or any other available, durable and as lightweight sheet material as possible;
- furniture foam rubber, 50 mm thick. Foam rubber, like many other materials, you can buy in a specialized online store "everything for furniture";
- synthetic winterizer or batting for additional softness of the frame and the product as a whole;
- furniture fabric;
- joiner's glue;
- strong thread for stitching upholstery details;
- self-tapping screws or furniture screws (when using the latter, you will need an electric drill);
- marker or pencil.

Let's get to work.

1. Frame
The base of our sofa is a frame. It can be of any shape and size, but this article describes the simplest project that can be made by a person inexperienced in the production of upholstered furniture.

The basis of the frame is made up of wooden bars and slats with a cross section of 40-50 mm or any other size that ensures the strength of the finished product.

Additional rigidity to the frame is given by the sheet materials with which it is sheathed - plywood, OSB, chipboard, fiberboard, etc. The inside of the frame is hollow, which makes it relatively lightweight.

At home, the sofa frame is assembled using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws. The holes for the screws can be pre-drilled with a drill, and the screws themselves can be lubricated with wood glue when drilling.

Also, glue is often used at the junction of wooden parts before they are connected with self-tapping screws. In this case, they are pressed against each other for some time with clamps.

In addition, when assembling the frame, it is convenient to use all kinds of angular and curved metal fasteners.

The length of our sofa is 3 meters. It is roomy enough and consists of two equal parts - 1.5 m each. In the photo below you can see one of them - the left side of the sofa.

2. Frame and mattress
The frame of the future mattress - the base of our sofa - is made of a board. For greater comfort, the cover is made of furniture belts.

It is not difficult to make it: first, the belts are fixed with a stapler horizontally, then you should bind and fix the belts perpendicularly - vertically.

The photo shows what we should get in the end. These are two parts of the mattress.

3. Backrest
The photo below shows the frame of the back of our sofa, sheathed with plywood. Please note that the frame itself is made of wooden blocks, and metal connectors are used to fasten the parts.

The back is hollow and lightweight, comfortable to work with. The shape in this case is as simple as possible - rectangular in profile. Without much effort, you can make it sloping by increasing the width at the base and reducing the width of the frame at the top.

4. Side parts
By analogy with the back, we also make the side parts of the frame. It should be noted that the protruding bars that are visible in the photo in the future will serve as the basis for the foam rubber. But more on that later.

5. Pasting with foam mats
After assembling the frame, proceed to the installation of the foam rubber.

Pieces of foam rubber of the required size and shape are pasted over the top and front of the back, as well as the inner surfaces of the side elements. We put the foam rubber on the mattress over the binding.

The adhesive can be applied with a wide brush or used as an aerosol. Immediately after applying a layer of glue, press the foam rubber to the surface and leave it for a while (usually no more than half an hour) until it sets.

6. Sintepon (batting)
In order to hide irregularities, smooth out sharp transitions and add volume, the back, side parts and, if desired, the mattress is wrapped with padding polyester or batting.

Before proceeding to this stage, it is necessary to grind all the sharp corners of the frame so that the upholstery does not fray and last as long as possible. This operation is carried out using a grinder, planer or just coarse sandpaper.

7. Fabric upholstery.
Covers are usually sewn according to ready-made patterns and patterns. If there are none, you can make them yourself by applying and trying on fabric to each of the elements of the sofa, be it a backrest or a pillow. Some of them can be zipped for easy cleaning and washing.

Covers can be cut strictly according to the shape, or they can be gathered and tacked with a stapler in those places where the design allows.

In extreme cases, the sewing of covers can be entrusted to specialists from the atelier. Their design is very simple and inexpensive.