It is difficult to imagine a carpentry workshop without a circular saw, since the most basic and widespread operation is precisely longitudinal sawing of workpieces. How to make a homemade circular saw will be discussed in this article.
Introduction
The machine consists of three main structural elements:
- base;
- sawing table;
- parallel stop.
The base and the sawing table itself are not very complex structural elements. Their design is obvious and not so complicated. Therefore, in this article we will consider the most difficult element - the parallel emphasis.
So, a parallel stop is a movable part of the machine, which is a guide for the workpiece, and it is along this part that the workpiece moves. Accordingly, the quality of the cut depends on the parallel stop due to the fact that if the stop is not parallel, then either the workpiece or the curve of the saws may jam.
In addition, the parallel stop of the circular saw must be a rather rigid structure, since the master applies forces, pressing the workpiece against the stop, and if the stop is displaced, this will lead to non-parallelism with the consequences indicated above.
There are various designs of parallel stops, depending on the methods of attaching it to the circular table. Here is a table with the characteristics of these options.
| Rip fence design | Advantages and disadvantages |
| Two-point fixing (front and back) | Advantages:· Quite rigid design; · Allows you to place the stop anywhere on the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); Does not require massiveness of the guide itself Flaw:· For fastening, the foreman needs to clamp one end in front of the machine, and also go around the machine and fix the opposite end of the stop. This is very inconvenient when choosing the required stop position and, with frequent changeovers, is a significant disadvantage. |
| One point mount (front) | Advantages:· Less rigid design than when fastening the stop at two points; · Allows you to place the stop anywhere on the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); · To change the position of the stop, it is enough to fix it on one side of the machine, where the master is located during the sawing process. Flaw:· The design of the stop must be massive to provide the required structural rigidity. |
| Fastening in the slot of the circular table | Advantages:· Fast changeover. Flaw:· The complexity of the design, · The weakening of the design of the circular table, · Fixed position from the line of the saw blade, · Quite a complex design for self-production, especially from wood (made only from metal). |
In this article, we will analyze the option of creating a parallel stop design for a circular with one attachment point.
Preparation for work
Before starting work, you need to decide on the necessary set of tools and materials that will be needed in the process of work.
The following tools will be used for work:
- Circular saw or can be used.
- Screwdriver.
- Bulgarian (Angle grinder).
- Hand tools: hammer, pencil, square.
In the process of work, you will also need the following materials:
- Plywood.
- Solid pine.
- Steel tube with an inner diameter of 6-10 mm.
- Steel bar with an outer diameter of 6-10 mm.
- Two washers with an increased area and an inner diameter of 6-10 mm.
- Self-tapping screws.
- Joiner's glue.
The design of the stop of the circular machine
The whole structure consists of two main parts - longitudinal and transverse (meaning - relative to the plane of the saw blade). Each of these parts is rigidly connected to the other and is a complex structure that includes a set of parts.
The clamping force is large enough to ensure structural strength and securely hold the entire rip fence.
From a different angle.
The general composition of all parts is as follows:
- Base of the transverse part;
- Longitudinal part
- , 2 pcs.);
- Base of the longitudinal part;
- Clamp
- Eccentric handle
Circular production
Preparation of blanks
There are a couple of things to note:
- planar longitudinal elements are made of pine, and not of solid wood, like other parts.
Drill a 22 mm hole in the end under the handle.
It is better to do this by drilling, but you can also just nail it in.
The circular saw used for work uses a self-made movable carriage from (or, alternatively, you can whip up a false table), which is not a pity to deform or spoil. We drive a nail into this carriage in the marked place and bite off the cap.
As a result, we get a flat cylindrical workpiece, which needs to be processed with a belt or eccentric sander.
We make a handle - this is a cylinder with a diameter of 22 mm and a length of 120-200 mm. Then we glue it into the eccentric.
Transverse part of the guide
We start making the transverse part of the guide. It consists, as mentioned above, of the following details:
- Base of the transverse part;
- Upper transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
- Lower transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
- End (fixing) strip of the transverse part.
Upper transverse clamping bar
Both clamping strips - the upper and lower ones - have one end, not straight 90º, but inclined ("oblique") with an angle of 26.5º (to be precise, 63.5 º). We have already observed these angles when cutting blanks.
The upper transverse clamping bar serves to move along the base and further fix the guide by pressing it against the lower transverse clamping strip. It is assembled from two blanks.
Both clamping strips are ready. It is necessary to check the smoothness of the movement and remove all defects that interfere with smooth sliding, in addition, you need to check the tightness of the sloped edges; there should be no gaps and cracks.
A tight fit will maximize the strength of the connection (fixing the guide).
Assembling the transverse whole part
Longitudinal part of the guide
The entire longitudinal part consists of:
- , 2 pcs.);
- The base of the longitudinal part.
This element is made from the fact that the surface is laminated and smoother - this reduces friction (improves sliding), as well as denser and stronger - more durable.
At the stage of forming the blanks, we have already cut them to size, it remains only to refine the edges. This is done with an edging tape.
The edging technology is simple (you can even glue it with an iron!) And understandable.
Base of the longitudinal part
And also fix it additionally with self-tapping screws. Do not forget to keep the 90º angle between the longitudinal and vertical elements.
Assembly of the transverse and longitudinal parts.
Right here VERY!!! it is important to observe the 90º angle, as the parallelism of the guide with the plane of the saw blade will depend on it.
Eccentric installation
Installing the guide
It's time to fix our entire structure on a circular machine. To do this, you need to attach the cross-stop bar to the circular table. Fastening, as elsewhere, is carried out with glue and self-tapping screws.
… And consider the work finished - the circular saw is ready with your own hands.
Video
The video on which this material was made.
A hand-made circular saw is an excellent tool that allows you to solve a large number of household and other tasks. In fact, it is not difficult to make this device on your own, even in that situation, if you do not have any special skills, the most important thing is to understand at least a little the principle of processing metal alloys.
The materials you need for the job can be found in your home workshop or garage. So, circular from a circular saw with your own hands is made of the following elements:
- corner of strong steel;
- rectangular shaped pipe;
- engine.
The finished circular saw can be positioned on a workbench. If you do not have one, you will have to make the table yourself. The engine can be taken from an old walk-behind tractor or washing machine.
Circular from an angle grinder
If you have your own "grinder", this is very good. To create a "circular", you need to make an axial handle and a sliding stop to the unit. The design of the sliding stop includes a pair of steel angle pieces placed on the sides of the saw blade. With the help of nuts and bolts, they are connected by a transverse bundle, and the gap between the working part and the sidewalls of the structure will be provided with washers.
On the "grinder", you need to pre-tighten the band clamp made of metal with a screw tie down. Then you need to attach the double-folded metal strip to the holes for the sliding stop. The stand and clamp can be combined, but in this situation the metal strip will be too thick.
Then, in the gearbox of the future tool, you will need to make several holes for the bolts. For this purpose, the body is disassembled, and the points where drilling will take place are indicated. With the help of the holes made, the axial handle is fixed, because the "standard" handle will not allow making a good cut, even if the master has very strong hands.
The handle is created from a metal tube or rod... Designs can be shaped like horns or braces. The ends of the element with which it will be attached to the gearbox must be provided with holes for installing fasteners.
You also need to make a barbell that will regulate the process. For this purpose, you need to take a piece of a metal rod, make a loop from one end of it, rivet it slightly and make a hole for the front stop bolt.
From the other end of the rod, you need to make a thread, which will allow you to connect it to the handle. In advance, one strong nut should be screwed onto this thread, and after the structure is assembled, the second. By lowering and pulling them, you can adjust the cutting depth. By the way, if you use a drill instead of a grinder, you can make a similar tool.
Thus, you can independently make a good circular saw out of an ordinary grinder, with which you can cut various materials.
Compact benchtop machine
The above talked about how to assemble a hand circular. Now we will tell you how to turn this device into a stationary one. This process involves the manufacture of a U-shaped bed from a pipe, as well as the installation of a transverse arm. The lower ends of the structure should bend horizontally in the direction of the cut. They are bolted to the table. Stability is provided by additional supports.
Lever mobility provided by cutting the horizontal segment into two identical parts, which are fixed to each other with clamps. The saw blade is attached to the vertical frame element with clamps.
Stationary installation
A machine similar to factory models needs a competent attitude during the assembly process, so you need to take care of all the little things in advance. The desktop version of the "circular" differs from the stationary only in the height of the bed, which is determined by the peculiarities of work and the size of future workpieces. One-time processing can be done with an ordinary table saw, which after work can be easily removed to the pantry or shed. But a master who constantly deals with wood will need a stationary installation. Therefore, he needs to make a table for a circular saw with his own hands.
The circular machine has the following advantages:
- This equipment allows you to make better and deeper cuts.
- The machine is much more convenient than manual equipment.
From the foregoing, we can conclude that circular saws, made independently, have a completely understandable and simple design, and the drawings that can be found on the vastness of the World Wide Web will greatly simplify the process of assembling equipment. Before making a "circular" on your own, you should separately consider all the necessary elements in order to understand the nuances of the functioning and installation of homemade equipment.
Content:
Circular type machines belong to the class of specialized machining mechanisms, without which no well-equipped home workshop can do.
This sample of woodworking equipment is especially relevant in the conditions of a country house and a country house.
When assessing the possibilities of purchasing off-the-shelf equipment, you will face a number of problems associated with the inconvenience of handling cheap stand-alone circular saws and the prohibitive cost of professional processing equipment.
The only correct approach to solving this problem is to make a circular machine with your own hands, using materials and equipment available for free sale.
Note! In order to save money in small-sized machine models, an autonomous circular saw is most often used as a cutting tool, which is rigidly attached to the bed.
With the help of a home-made machine, you can saw boards, shave off the slab, and also make bars of the section you need.
If you wish, it will be possible to significantly expand the functionality of your product, providing it with the possibility of processing wood using an electric planer.
Construction requirements
Before starting work, it will be necessary to prepare a small sketch, which should indicate not only the location of all structural elements of the future machine, but also their main dimensions. When drawing such a sketch, you should take into account that your circular machine can consist of the following functional units:
- the bed, which serves as the basis for the entire product;
- tabletops with an industrial model of a circular hand saw installed on it;
- remote control panel for switching on and off the actuator (circular saw).
Small-sized table-type circular machine
The specified composition of the machine is typical for small-sized products on a wooden bed. For capital equipment made on the basis of metal profiles (corners), its scheme has a slightly different form. The composition of such a product should include the following elements:
- a base of steel frames and brackets, on which a shaft with a drive pulley is mounted in bearing pairs;
- tabletop with slots for the processing blade, installed over the metal frame and rigidly fixed to it;
- a set of special drive electrical equipment located at the bottom of the bed and providing the required functionality of the device (it includes an electric motor, a starting device and a transformer-converter).
The main requirement for any type of bed is to ensure maximum reliability and stability of the structure. As options for the execution of the machine base, we will consider both frames made of metal profiles (corners) and supporting structures made of wood.
When familiarizing yourself with the requirements for the electrical equipment of a home-made machine, first of all, you should determine the drive power of the cutting tool (or autonomous saw), which for domestic conditions should not exceed 850 watts.
Stationary circular machine
In addition, before preparing a sketch of a future product, such technical characteristics of the equipment used should be taken into account, such as:
- Depth of cut, which sets the allowable thickness of wood pieces to be processed on your machine. This indicator for industrial samples of woodworking equipment ranges from 5 to 8 cm, which is quite enough for cutting standard boards and thick plywood.
Additional information: In the event that you need to process wood blanks of greater thickness, it is necessary to provide a special lifting mechanism in the bed, which allows you to change the position of the disc in height.
- Before making a capital machine with a separate drive, the operating speed of the rotor of the electric motor should be taken into account. The choice of this parameter is determined by the lumber processing modes that you will most often have to deal with. This can be relatively low for simple cutting of wood pieces, but for a perfectly flat (“clean”) cut you will need a higher speed.
Important! The optimal speed for homemade cutting machines is considered to be a speed that does not exceed the value 4500 rpm... At low engine speeds, the bed can be made on the basis of a reinforced wooden frame, massive enough to prevent vibration of the mechanism.
- When drawing up the sketch, the requirements for ergonomics should also be taken into account, implying the convenience of controlling the operation of the equipment, as well as the safety of handling it. They relate to the order of the buttons on the operating panel, the limitation of access to the cutting blade, as well as the electrical protection of the drive or individual control elements.
After taking into account all possible requirements for the future machine, you can proceed to its direct assembly.
Bed based on metal profiles (angles)
The upper part of the metal frame is most conveniently made in the form of a 600 x 400mm rectangular frame welded from 25mm corners. Pipe billets with a length of 220 mm are welded to the four corners of this structure (the recommended pipe diameter is 17-20 mm).
The bed must ensure the rigidity of the machine structure
Two longitudinal angles are fixed on the frame with bolts, which are used to fasten the shaft in the bearing cage.
The distance between the corners is determined based on the length of the shaft, and the bearings used for installation are fixed to them with special clamps.
In order to make it more stable, the lower part of the bed frame is made (welded) from 40 mm metal corners.
A closed bearing is used to mount the working shaft.
Two jumpers of the same material are welded across the frame, used to secure the electric motor. There is also a metal platform for the installation of launching equipment.
Bearings are attached to the bed with special clamps
At the corners of the resulting structure, pipe blanks are welded with a length corresponding to the size of the pipes on the upper frame, but with a slightly larger diameter (23-25mm).
Closer to their edge, special clamps (lambs) are made, used to clamp the lifting pipes of the upper frame, which are moved when the drive belt is tensioned.
The procedure for assembling the mechanical part of such a machine includes the following operations:
- first, bearings No. 202 are taken and hammered into the working shaft with force;
- after that, a pulley is fixed on the same shaft with an interference fit, previously turned on a lathe and having an inner diameter of the groove of 50 mm;
- then a thread is cut at the end of the shaft for a bolt used to clamp the cutting tool (for more reliable fixation, it will be possible to put paronite and metal washers under the bolt);
- upon completion of this part of the work, we proceed to the installation of the drive, manufactured on the basis of a three-phase asynchronous motor with a power of 1.5 kW, (1500 rpm). A pulley is mounted on the shaft of such an engine, which has an internal groove size of about 80 mm;
- at the next stage of assembling the frame, two finished halves of the bed are connected together (while pipes of a smaller diameter are inserted into larger ones);
- at the end of the work, a belt is pulled on the shaft, and then the structure is fixed in this position by means of special clamps - "lambs".
Machine on a wooden frame
The easiest and most affordable way to make a machine bed involves the use of ordinary boards or thick plywood for these purposes. In this embodiment, the actuator is located directly under the table (table top), in which a slot of appropriate dimensions is made for the cutting blade.
The frame made of wood is reliable and easy to manufacture
As an example, we will consider the option of manufacturing a bed with a height of approximately 110 - 120 cm, intended for fixing a hand-held circular saw on it. The length of the countertop of this design can be changed within small limits at your discretion.
Note! The height of the structure, if desired, can be adjusted, taking into account the height of the person working on the machine. And if it is necessary to process very long boards on it, the dimensions of the table top can be increased to the required size. In this case, you will have to worry about installing additional support legs.
The most convenient material for the manufacture of countertops is multilayer plywood with a thickness of at least 50 mm. However, for these purposes, other materials can also be selected (plexiglass or fiberglass plates, for example). As for such a common material as chipboard, its use in this case is undesirable as it does not provide sufficient surface strength.
To make a machine on a wooden base, you need the following materials:
- blanking of sheet iron;
- standard sheet of thick plywood;
- a pair of beams with a section of 50 × 50 mm;
- thick boards with a standard size of 50 x 100 mm;
- a steel corner, necessary to increase the rigidity of the fastening of the guides;
- a circular saw;
- two clamps.
In addition, you will have to stock up on the following set of tools, without which the assembly of the machine is simply impossible:
- classic screwdriver and electric drill;
- a simple hacksaw for wood or a jigsaw;
- measuring instruments (square, tape measure, ruler);
- portable milling cutter for wood processing.
In the absence of such a milling cutter, it will be possible to use the help of friends or neighbors who have a milling machine in their household.
Additional Information: Some home craftsmen prefer to make countertops from kitchen tables that have served their time. However, such a structure will not be distinguished by durability, since the source material has been used for a long time in a damp room. That is why it will be wiser to make all structural elements from new blanks, which at the same time will allow you to take into account your personal tastes and preferences.
Countertop manufacturing
Work on the manufacture of this piece of equipment is carried out in the following sequence:
We start by marking a piece of plywood so that its edges are flush with the edges of the prepared sheet of iron. After marking, using a hacksaw or electric jigsaw, you can cut the plywood blank to the required size. If desired, it will be possible to process its edges with a cutter, although this is not at all necessary (the main requirement for this element is its reliability, not attractiveness).
Upon completion of these operations, the surface of the countertop is carefully processed (rubbed over) with an emery cloth of medium grain size.
Then, on its lower part, the location of the slot for the saw blade is preliminarily marked. To do this, it is necessary to determine the dimensions of the sole of the circular saw prepared for installation. For the convenience of taking measurements, the saw blade is simply removed from the saw, after which it will be possible to easily determine the dimensions of the seat.
For the convenience of marking the table top, the saw blade is removed
After completing its preparation, you should take a circular saw and try it on at the installation site. If necessary, the position of the points of its attachment is adjusted (at the same time, the contours of the slot for the saw blade are refined).
The finished plywood tabletop is closed with a steel sheet fixed to it with self-tapping screws. Subsequently, it will be possible to apply special markings on the working surface, which allows you to adjust the position of the wood blank during its processing.
Assembling the frame
Both transverse and longitudinal beams of the frame, used as stiffeners, are also mounted on the lower plane of the table top. In total, four such strips will be required:
Two transverse lintels that do not reach the edge of the table top by 7-9 cm on each side.
Two longitudinal bars, the size of which corresponds to the same condition (they should not reach the edges of the tabletop by about 7-9 cm).
Taking into account these restrictions, it is necessary to outline the fixation points of the longitudinal bars and cross-members, in which the latter will be attached to the tabletop using self-tapping screws of a suitable size.
When marking points, the extreme of them is selected approximately at a distance of 40-50 mm from the edge of the bar (while the step between them should be about 23-25 cm).
Before the final assembly of the frame, through holes for self-tapping screws are drilled in all component parts (bars and tabletop). On the front side, the fastening elements are installed in such a way that their caps are completely hidden in the material.
To increase the strength of the future frame base, the bars adjacent to the countertop are pre-coated with joiner's glue.
After assembly, the structure is temporarily fixed with clamps, which can be removed after the glue has dried out.
Attaching the support legs
Table legs are made of bars of a suitable section (most often the same blanks 50x50 mm are used for these purposes). The height of the supports is selected for a specific person, that is, individually.
In this case, the fact that it is more convenient to work on a circular machine should be taken into account when the tabletop is at hip level. The shape of the legs before their final installation is being finalized taking into account that they taper towards the supporting part (the interface area with the frame base should exceed the area of the floor support).
To increase the rigidity and stability of the structure, steel corners can be used in it, which are compressed in such a way as to provide additional "spacer" for the base. To secure them, special bolts with washers are used, installed with the caps outward.
Electrical diagram
In the capital version of the design of the circular machine, an autonomous drive is used, which includes an asynchronous type electric motor, the windings of which are connected to the power grid according to the triangle scheme.
Circular machine induction motor connection diagram
To control the operation and ensure the automatic start of the electric motor in the circuit, a magnetic starter is provided, built on the basis of an electronic switch (triac) and a current transformer.
To build a control scheme for a machine on a wooden frame (a variant involving the use of a hand-held circular saw), it will be enough to duplicate the on and off buttons of the mechanism, bringing them out and fixing them on one of the legs of the table top
You will learn more about connecting the machine's electric motor from the video.
The presence in the household of the necessary minimum of tools for simple work fully justifies the need to have a small box with the simplest tools in use.
But when it becomes necessary to carry out a simple repair or realize an old dream of a small hobby, then it becomes necessary to purchase or independently manufacture a simple, but very necessary carpentry tool - a stationary circular saw.
The practical use of this kind of tools for different craftsmen is different, in one thing they all agree unequivocally, this is that such a machine is simply necessary in the park of home tools.
In practical terms, a stationary circular saw is necessary:
- for longitudinal dissolution of wood;
- for trimming the edges of non-edged boards to obtain even sides;
- to obtain slats, slats, boards of the same size;
- for sampling a part of the board (quarter) to create a tight connection of the boards into a shield.
- in purely economic terms, a circular is simply necessary for cutting firewood from woodworking waste.
At the same time, if you are creative about the equipment of the machine and put a little more effort into it, then the result can be a machine with a whole set of universal functions:
- sawing;
- grinding;
- planing;
- drilling;
- sharpening the tool.
As with the invention of the bicycle, there is no unambiguous answer, in each case it is its own unbeaten path of searches and discoveries.
But, basically, to the question of how to make a circular saw, the masters are making attempts in several directions:
- improvement of existing hand tools, adapting them as the main parts - an electric motor and a circular saw;
- improvement of industrially manufactured tools for specific application;
- assembly of the machine from individual elements - shaft, engine, bed;
- independent production of all parts of the structure, well, perhaps, except for the electric motor.
Manual circular design
The simplest and relatively inexpensive way to make a stationary machine for sawing wood with the help will be to convert a manual mounting circular saw into a stationary one. The essence of the alteration is to create a standard model of a stationary bed and a working table for an industrially manufactured sample.
Such a refinement will allow you to attach the saw up to the tool bed, fix it on the desktop, and thus use it as a small circular. The guide for cutting the planks is made of a steel corner 25x25 mm, it is attached to the work table.
The frame itself is welded from corners of 25x25 mm, given that the largest standard size of a circular saw is 230 mm, then such a frame is enough to create a light, portable but stationary saw, the main application of which is small work that does not require a long electric motor voltage.
This use case is implemented in some models of domestic and foreign manufacturers of power tools, in which any solid surface is used as the basis of the machine, and the assembly saw itself is attached to the base with clamps.
This option provides for the manufacture of a machine body made of wood or an iron angle or a shaped pipe, taking into account the fact that the placement of the tool will be in the desktop version. Since the base will be small, the use of such a tool opens up new possibilities. Such a woodworking machine allows you to carry out work in any convenient place.
The principle of creating such a machine is similar to how a hand-held circular saw is created - for the base, a body, a top plate, a fixing device for a mounting saw or a grinder are made, in the case of using a grinder as an engine.
Separately, for maximum safety, it is necessary to provide a button for turning on and off the power supply of the tool, and a mechanism for locking the power buttons on the saw or grinder itself.
For the convenience of work, it is recommended to make the guide bar with guides for fixing the stop in the base body, thereby increasing the reliability of the fastening. For clamping, it is recommended to use wing nuts for clamping, thus, additionally creating convenience in work.
A feature of such a full-fledged circular saw is its full-size body manufacture, the ability to more accurately adjust the position of the saw, a more powerful engine and, accordingly, a longer operating mode.
Making a stop and preparing the necessary holes
For a stationary saw designed for a longer operating mode, the presence of a reliable stop for fixing the thickness of the standard spreading boards is an important and necessary condition.
The emphasis itself is made of metal or using a metal base and individual wooden parts.
The most acceptable option is to create a stop from a corner of 100x100 mm, with metal plates welded to it with a thickness of at least 5 mm with slots along the length. The length of the stop must be no less than the length of the working plate of the circular. The length of the plates should correspond to the width of the working surface of the plate.
Holes are drilled in the body through the working plate:
- at the edge through the machine frame;
- in the middle of the work plate.
The holes should form a regular rectangle with their vertices in the center of the holes.
The holes are necessary so that nuts are welded on the inner side of the machine in these places on the strips reinforced with a strip of metal 5-6 mm thick to fix the clamping bolts of the stop.
When making a stop and drilling holes, it must be borne in mind that the stop must be parallel to the plane of the saw.
Adjustment of the cutting depth or the height of the saw exit above the working plate is adjusted on the bed in two ways:
- the creation of a lifting mechanism for the working plate;
- the creation of an adjusting mechanism for raising and lowering the axles of the circular saw and the motor with a belt drive.
The lifting mechanism of the plate can be constructed by attaching the metal plate to the machine frame with long bolts. Lifting will be carried out by tightening the lock and fixing nuts on each bolt.
The lifting mechanism of the second type can be represented as:
- guides along which the carriage moves with the shaft and the motor;
- adjusting rod with fixing nuts;
- handles with a printed adjustment scale.
The adjusting bar itself can be replaced with a standard threaded metal stud. This option is even more profitable than the invention of new methods.
The adjusting handle can be made by welding a metal plate to the end of the stud. At a distance of 4-5 mm from the center of the plate, aligned with the center of the stud, holes are drilled for self-tapping screws.
For the convenience of work, a rod is welded to the end of the plate so that the entire structure can be rotated for it.
As a scale, you can use a round washer made of plywood or plastic - it is put on a hairpin and fixed, on the one hand, with self-tapping screws, on the other, it is squeezed with a nut.
Having assembled the entire lifting mechanism, a scale is applied empirically to the plywood, corresponding to a certain lifting height of the working plate.
For comfortable work with machines, it is necessary to provide, in addition to the already mentioned elements, others, tools and devices necessary for normal operation:
- for convenience, it is recommended to apply a centimeter jackal on the working plate, the "0" of which corresponds to the side of the saw blade;
- to protect against accidental chips and chips, it is recommended to provide for the installation of a protective screen made of transparent plastic above the disc;
- to facilitate cutting, when additional force is needed to press the board, it is recommended to consider installing a pressure roller or wooden pressure plates;
- to facilitate the work and to prevent reverse breakdown of the board, it is necessary to provide for the installation of thrust plates.
For the correct and reliable connection of parts, creating a rigid structure that can withstand heavy loads, you will need:
- instruments:
- grinder with cutting wheels;
- welding machine;
- hammer;
- drill with a set of drills;
- marking tool - tape measure, meter, square, scribe, core;
- consumables - electrodes, brushes for metal;
- clamps, vise
- materials:
- metal corners or profile pipe;
- metal sheet for the work plate;
- bolts, washers, nuts, studs;
- metal strip;
- hardwood boards;
Many summer residents and owners of private houses were faced with the need to process and saw boards, plywood and other sawn timber. For such work, you will need a circular, which will not be difficult to complete from improvised means. Such home-made equipment will not be inferior to purchased equipment in functionality and quality of performance, allowing you to save several tens of thousands of rubles on the purchase of ready-made units.
Description of equipment
Hand-made circular saws can be stationary or portable. The design of the simplest circular will include a metal or wooden supporting frame, inside which an electric motor, a power supply control unit, a tabletop and the working saw itself are fixed, which is mounted on the circular shaft or installed through gears and a trunnion mechanism. The saw is located in a slot in the table top, which allows you to easily cut sawn timber, performing high-quality wood processing.
The table-top can be made of lumber or use ready-made metal blanks for this. Flat easel tables are made of wood, from above, such a tabletop will need to be covered with a durable metal sheet... Otherwise, without metal protection, the tree will begin to wear out quickly, and the equipment, with active operation, will last for several years, after which complex and expensive repairs will be required.
First of all, you need to decide on the main tasks of the sawing machine. If you need to saw boards or firewood for the winter, then the simplest installation from a sturdy table with a slot for a disc will be enough.
Some models imply the presence of an additional shaft to which knives, a jointer and a plane are attached. These universal machines are equipped with powerful electric motors, which allows you to perform a wide range of woodworking jobs. When making a multifunctional machine, it is necessary to be guided by high-quality drawing diagrams, which will make it possible to make universal and reliable equipment.
If you need to perform various kinds of carpentry work, then equip the coordinate table with guides. The available stops and guides can be fixed at various angles, which allows not only to ensure the safety of work on the machine, but also to perform high-quality wood processing, easily changing the blades to saws of various diameters.
The advantages of homemade equipment
Homemade circulars are very popular due to the simplicity of their manufacture, durability and reliability. Today, many summer residents use home-made units, and do not buy expensive equipment in specialized stores.
The main advantages of this technique include the following:
- Tool versatility.
- The simplicity of its manufacture.
- Possibility of significant savings.
- Equipment reliability and durability.
The schemes for the execution of stationary and mobile circulars available on the Internet and thematic printed publications make it possible to manufacture equipment for processing both thin workpieces and thick lumber. You can pick up the simplest options that do an excellent job with the processing of lining, thin lamellas and plywood.
Features and power
The functionality of the use of equipment will depend on the correct choice of parameters, including indicators of revolutions and drive power. The power rating is influenced by the maximum permissible diameter of the serrated saw. It is believed that to process lumber with a thickness of about 10 millimeters, an electric motor with a power of 1 kW is required. Based on the thickness of the processed and sawn timber, the power of the electric motor should be chosen.
The transmission from the drive in a self-made circular is best done with a V-belt. This allows you to ensure the necessary safety in the use of technology. V-belt transmission, when foreign objects hit the saw, will slip on the pulleys, which eliminates injury and jamming of the working disc.
Circular production
Before proceeding directly to the manufacture of a circular machine, it is necessary to think over its device and design, and ideally choose a drawing diagram according to which all work will be performed in the future. When planning the manufacture of the bed, it must be remembered that such a structure must be stable and reliable... For production power saws, the base is made of reinforced welded steel structure. For household models, you can use wooden blocks with plywood for the bed or weld the base from a metal corner.
The choice of the electric motor used will depend on what kind of work and what kind of wood is planned to be processed on the machine. The drive can be operated from a single-phase mains or powerful industrial motors are used that operate from a three-phase mains.
You can make a powerful and easy-to-use circular from a motor from a washing machine. It won't be too difficult. Such motors are compact in size, operate on a single-phase network with a voltage of 220 volts, are reliable and capable of operating at high speeds.
One of the most important parts of the electric saw is the shaft on which the working saw is attached. You can use a ready-made shaft from similar equipment or make it on a router from round timber. They grind the shaft on a lathe, checking for perfect centering. Even minimal shaft runout is not allowed, since later it will be impossible and unsafe to work on such an incorrectly centered circular machine. Seats for pulleys and a circular saw should be made on the shaft.
The saw blade should rise up to a third of its diameter above the worktop surface. Otherwise, at a higher saw height, it will be difficult to process wood, and work on such a machine will become simply dangerous. If you need to work with a bar, the diameter of the saw blade will be approximately 350 millimeters. For processing boards, you should choose small discs with a diameter of 250-300 millimeters. The quality of the saw blades used must be given due attention, since in the future a significant load will fall on the minicircular, poor-quality blades will quickly become dull and require replacement.
Materials and tools
Making a circular machine with your own hands will not be particularly difficult. For such work, the following materials and tools will be required:
In each case, the design of the circular will be different, so it is necessary to choose certain components, which will make it possible to manufacture functional and reliable equipment. When using lumber for the manufacture of the base and the work table, the wood will need to be coated with impregnations that protect the material from decay and moisture.
Step by step assembly
You can make a stationary circular saw with your own hands from a grinder and a hand cutter without making any changes to the design of the working tool. The base is made of sawn timber, which makes it possible to significantly simplify manufacturing, eliminating the need to use complex welding equipment. Step-by-step instruction:
This option for making a circular saw will be an excellent choice if you need a tool for cutting boards up to 3 centimeters thick. If you need to make a powerful and multifunctional device for the home, then use electric motors with a power of 5 kW or more, which allow you to process and saw boards 5-8 centimeters thick.
Making a homemade circular saw is not particularly difficult. You can use grinders or hand saws that are mounted inside the wooden base of the machine.
Some craftsmen make more complex tools, involving the use of powerful electric motors, V-belt transmission and larger diameter saw blades. If you have any difficulties on the network, you can find thematic videos telling how to make a circular with your own hands.