Making a manual or stationary circular saw with your own hands. Do-it-yourself stationary circular saw - according to our drawings and guidance, everyone can do it

The presence in the household of the necessary minimum of tools for simple work justifies the need to have a small box with the simplest tools in everyday life.

But when it becomes necessary to carry out a simple repair or realize an old dream of a small hobby, then it becomes necessary to buy or independently manufacture a simple, but very necessary carpentry tool - a stationary circular saw.

The practical use of this kind of tools by different craftsmen takes place in different ways, in one thing everyone agrees unambiguously, this is that such a machine is simply necessary in the home tool park.

In practical terms, a stationary circular saw is necessary:

for longitudinal dissolution of wood;
for trimming the edges of an unedged board to obtain even sides;
to obtain planks, slats, boards of the same size;
for sampling a part of the board (quarter) to create a tight connection of the boards into a shield.
in purely economic terms, a circular is simply necessary for cutting firewood from woodworking waste.

However, if the issue of machine equipment is approached creatively and put a little more effort, then the result can be a machine with a whole set of universal functions:

sawing;
grinding;
planing;
drilling;
tool sharpening.

As with the invention of the bicycle, there is no single answer here, in each individual case it is its own unbeaten path of search and discovery.

But, basically, to the question of how to make a circular saw, the masters are trying in several directions:

improvement of existing hand tools, adapting them as the main parts - an electric motor and a circular saw;
improvement of an industrially manufactured tool for specific applications;
assembly of the machine from individual elements - shaft, engine, frame;
independent production of all parts of the structure, well, perhaps, except for the electric motor.

Manual design of the circular

The simplest and relatively inexpensive way to manufacture a stationary machine for sawing wood with the help is to convert a manual mounting circular saw into a stationary one. The essence of the alteration is to create a standard model of a stationary frame and desktop for an industrially manufactured sample.

Such a refinement will allow you to attach the saw upside down with the tool bed, fix it on the desktop, and thus use it as a small circular. The guide for cutting planks is made of a steel corner 25x25 mm, it is attached to the desktop.

The bed itself is welded from 25x25 mm corners, given that the largest standard size of a circular saw is 230 mm, such a bed is enough to create a light, portable but stationary saw, the main use of which is small work that does not require a long electric motor voltage.

This use case is implemented in some models of domestic and foreign manufacturers of power tools, in which any solid surface is used as the basis of the machine, and the mounting saw itself is attached to the base with clamps.

This option involves the manufacture of a machine body made of wood or an iron corner or a profile pipe, taking into account the fact that the placement of the tool will be in the desktop version. Since the base will be small, the use of such a tool opens up new possibilities. Such a woodworking machine allows you to carry out work in any convenient place.

The principle of creating such a machine is similar to how a hand-held circular saw is created - for the base, a body, a top plate, a device for fixing a mounting saw or a grinder are made, in the case of using a grinder as an engine.

Separately, in order to maintain maximum safety, it is necessary to provide a button for turning the power supply of the tool on and off, and a mechanism for blocking the power buttons on the saw itself or grinder.

For convenience of work, it is recommended to make the guide bar with guides for fixing the stop in the base body, thereby increasing the reliability of fastening. For clamping, it is recommended to use bolts with wing nuts, thus, additionally creating convenience in work.

A feature of such a full-fledged circular saw is its full-size manufacturing of the body, the possibility of more precise adjustment of the position of the saw, a more powerful engine and, accordingly, a longer operating mode.

Making an emphasis and preparing the necessary holes

For a stationary saw designed for a longer operating mode, the presence of a reliable stop for fixing the thickness of standard boards is an important and necessary condition.

The emphasis itself is made of metal or using a metal base and individual parts made of wood.

The most acceptable option is to create a stop from a corner of 100x100 mm, with metal plates welded to it with a thickness of at least 5 mm with slots along the length. The length of the stop must not be less than the length of the working plate of the circular. The length of the plates must correspond to the width of the working surface of the plate.

Holes are drilled in the body through the work plate:

on the edge through the frame of the machine;
in the middle of the worktop.

The holes should form a regular rectangle with their vertices at the center of the holes.

The holes are necessary so that nuts are welded on the inner side of the machine in these places on the strips reinforced with a metal strip 5-6 mm thick to fix the clamping bolts of the stop.

When making the stop and drilling holes, it must be taken into account that the stop must be parallel to the plane of the saw.

Adjusting the depth of cut or the height of the saw exit above the work plate is adjusted on the bed in two ways:

the creation of a lifting mechanism of the working plate;
the creation of an adjusting mechanism for raising and lowering the axis of the circular saw and the engine with a belt drive.

The plate lifting mechanism can be constructed by attaching the metal plate to the machine frame with long bolts. Lifting will be carried out by tightening the locking and fixing nuts on each bolt.

The lifting mechanism of the second type can be represented as:

guides along which the movement of the carriage with the shaft and the engine occurs;
adjusting rod with fixing nuts;
handles with applied adjustment scale.

The adjusting rod itself can be replaced with a standard metal threaded stud. This option is even more profitable than the invention of new methods.

The adjustment handle can be made by welding a metal plate to the end of the stud. At a distance of 4-5 mm from the center of the plate, aligned with the center of the stud, holes are drilled for self-tapping screws.

For convenience, a rod is welded to the end of the plate in such a way that the entire structure can be rotated for it.

As a scale, you can use a round washer made of plywood or plastic - it is put on a hairpin and fixed, on the one hand, with self-tapping screws, on the other, it is pressed with a nut.

Having assembled the entire lifting mechanism, a scale corresponding to a certain lifting height of the working plate is applied empirically to the plywood.

For comfortable work with machines, it is necessary to provide, in addition to the already mentioned elements, others, Tools and fixtures necessary for normal operation:

for convenience, it is recommended to apply a centimeter jackal on the working plate, the “0” of which corresponds to the side of the saw blade;
to protect against accidental chips and chips, it is recommended to provide for the installation of a protective screen made of transparent plastic above the disk;
to facilitate cutting, when additional force is needed to press the board, it is recommended to consider installing a pressure roller or wooden pressure plates;
to facilitate work and prevent reverse breakdown of the board, it is necessary to provide for the installation of thrust plates.

For the correct and reliable connection of parts, the creation of a rigid structure that can withstand heavy loads, you will need:

tools:
grinder with cutting wheels;
welding machine;
hammer;
drill with a set of drills;
marking tool - tape measure, meter, square, scriber, core;
consumables - electrodes, brushes for metal;
clamps, vise
materials:
metal corners or profile pipe;
metal sheet for the working plate;
bolts, washers, nuts, studs;
metal strip;
hardwood boards;

A stationary circular saw is the machine that should be in the workshop of every craftsman working with wood. With its help, you can quickly and effortlessly cut a board, cut a workpiece of the required size, and cut firewood.

The home master is simply obliged to acquire such a machine. It is not necessary to buy it, a home-made circular is guaranteed to cope with the amount of work of a home workshop, while costing a much smaller amount.

Circular saw device

Being a really useful tool, the circular has a fairly simple design. Its main nodes:

bed - a frame on which the main units are mounted;
tabletop with a slot for a disk;
motor with rotation transmission system;
cutting tool, disc with teeth.

Optionally, the device can be supplemented with a pusher, which ensures the forward movement of the workpiece to the disk, and various lifting mechanisms that regulate the cutting depth.

The principle of operation of a circular saw (circular saw) is that the rotation of the motor shaft is transmitted to a cutting tool, a disk with sharply sharpened teeth. The center of the disk is located below the level of the tabletop, only its segment is removed from it. The workpiece is brought to the rotating disk, the teeth bite into the wood, creating an even cut.

A simple circular grinder or circular saw

An angle grinder (grinder) is one of the most popular tools for a home craftsman, with its help it is easy to cut metal and clean welds. In addition, using a wood disc instead of a regular abrasive disc, the angle grinder can be turned into a hand-held circular saw (it is also called a parquet), and by making a frame with a table - into a stationary circular saw.

Required accessories

For work you will need:

multilayer plywood with a thickness of 10 mm or more;
switch and wire;
bolts with a cap under sweat;
screws;
wooden block 40x40 mm.

You also need to prepare a drill or screwdriver, a hammer, a screwdriver, pliers, a ruler and a pencil. With the help of these tools, you have to make a circular with your own hands.

Of course, we must not forget the grinder itself or a hand-held circular saw. At the first stage, it will help to cut the material, and then it will take its place as a working body of the circular.

Sequencing

The first step is to make the body of the circular. Thick plywood is perfect for this, you can use any pressed wood boards. You will need to cut out four rectangular sheets, size 40 x 80 cm. A box with a square 80 x 80 cm at the base is assembled from them. Four bars are installed in the corners for ease of assembly and reliability of the structure.

From above, the resulting box is closed with a countertop. It can be made from the same plywood, but it is better to use some kind of laminated sheet material. This guarantees the durability of the machine, ensures the convenience of operating a home-made circular.

A cut is made in the tabletop to exit the disc, holes are drilled on the sides of it for attaching the tool.

The grinder must be securely fixed under the countertop. The design of the latch can be very diverse, it all depends on the configuration of the machine itself. The main requirement for fastening is that it must securely hold the angle grinder, preventing it from moving.

The simplest fastening may look like this: two metal squares, between them a grinder is fixed with a steel clamp.

In the upper shelves of the squares holding the grinder, two holes are drilled. The structure is fastened to the table top with countersunk bolts. It remains only to block the power button, connect the grinder through an external switch.

In the same way, you can make a circular saw from a circular saw with your own hands. In this case, the work is noticeably simplified due to the fact that you do not need to invent a mount. It is enough to make a cutout for the disk, drill holes through the holes in the hand saw plate.

Miniature machine from the engine from the washing machine

The circular is distinguished by its extreme simplicity and availability of materials for its manufacture. Perhaps its only expensive part is the electric motor. Stationary machines are equipped with a powerful asynchronous motor that provides cutting of thick wood of any species, but in a home workshop you can limit yourself to less power.

Note! For sawing boards of medium thickness, it is enough to make a circular table driven by a washing machine engine with your own hands.

This design has a number of advantages. The engine from an old washing machine is inexpensive, moreover, such a unit is likely to be found in the household of a home craftsman. Connecting this engine is not particularly difficult, there is no need to look for circuits, soldering. With all this, the power of such a unit is quite enough for most types of work.

The scheme of the machine can be simplified as much as possible by eliminating the belt drive. In this embodiment, the cutting tool will be mounted directly on the motor shaft. The bed of the desktop mini-machine will be a frame assembled from a bar with a section of 40 x 40 mm. If desired, it can be welded from a corner or a profile pipe.

As a stand (tabletop) for a circular, a part of the body of an old TV, coated chipboard, is ideal. As practice shows, this part is sufficiently durable, and thanks to the lacquer coating, it does not prevent the workpiece from sliding.

In the tabletop with an electric jigsaw, two parallel cuts are made perpendicular to the cutout for the disk. A movable square will slide along them, playing the role of a side stop. It will help to make an even cut, if necessary, at a given angle.

Stationary machine

Those who plan to seriously engage in woodworking should think about making a full-fledged stationary circular saw. It should be a separate unit mounted on a workbench, equipped with a powerful engine, with the ability to quickly change the disc. It will take time to make such a circular with your own hands, but it will definitely pay for itself.

Despite the apparent simplicity of this device, it is worth creating a drawing of the machine before starting work. This will allow you to visually see the future unit, choose its optimal configuration.

bed

The basis of any machine is a bed, a frame on which all the main parts are mounted. The frame of the circular must be stable and reliable, so it is made of metal. It is preferable to use a profile pipe or a thick-walled square. Welding is used to connect parts. If a collapsible design is conceived, a bolted connection is suitable.

It will not be difficult to buy suitable material; in any specialized metal-roll store, you can pick up both pipes and a square. Those who want to save money can be recommended to contact scrap metal buyers. You can buy the same thing from them, only cheaper.

table top

The best material for making a professional circular countertop is metal. Steel and aluminum-based alloys are excellent. For a budget option, you can limit yourself to thick plywood upholstered with sheet iron. In any case, the surface of the tabletop must be smooth, resistant to friction and not sag under a weight of up to 50 kg.

In the tabletop, a groove is made for the disk. It can be done in two ways. You can make a cut in a single sheet, or you can assemble a countertop from two halves. The second method is preferable for a metal countertop, which is difficult to cut at home.

If desired, you can make a sawing machine for working outside the workshop, for this it is enough to provide for the possibility of installing a low-power gasoline engine, it can be removable.

Rotation transmission

The optimal circular drive is a V-belt drive. Two pulleys are used, one on the motor and one on the drive shaft. It's convenient and safe. There is no direct connection between the motor rotor and the disc, in the event of a jammed tool, the belt will begin to slip, signaling the need to turn off the power. In addition, using pulleys with several streams of different diameters, you can adjust the speed of the saw, choosing the optimal mode for different woods.

Rotation from the motor rotor is transmitted to the shaft. This is one of the most critical parts of the circular. It is unlikely that it will be possible to make a shaft on your own, it is better to buy a ready-made one or order it from a turner.

The shaft is mounted on bearings. They must be of a closed type: a circular saw is a sawing place and open ones will not last long.

Pendulum suspended machine

Those who can boast of the ability to work with metal can be advised to make a circular with a pendulum engine mount. The main feature of the device is that the engine, shaft and cutting disc are installed in one common frame. On the one hand, it is hinged on the frame, the second is held by a screw with the ability to adjust the height. By changing the length of the screw, you can adjust the height of the disk exit from the tabletop.

This system allows you to adjust the height of the cut, as well as use discs of different diameters. If, instead of an adjusting screw, you use a probe brought out to the tabletop, you can get a simple copying machine. The probe will allow you to adjust the depth of the cut according to a certain pattern. This fairly simple refinement will turn a simple circular saw into a real woodworking machine. With such a device, you can not only cut the board into the necessary blanks, but also perform accurate cuts and make various selections.

A circular machine is the tool that no home craftsman can do without. This equipment is especially relevant for a country house or cottage. But working with a manual machine is not always convenient, and factory machines are quite expensive.

The way out of this situation can be to make this device with your own hands. The basis of this machine can be not only a hand-held circular saw, but even an electric drill or grinder.

Making a frame for a circular machine with your own hands is very simple. For the manufacture will be needed the most ordinary lumber and quite a bit of time.

Before thinking about the design of the upcoming machine, you need to calculate the load to which it will be subject. The main thing in the bed is reliability and stability. For powerful production saws, the basis is a welded reinforced metal structure. But for do-it-yourself use, such a unit is not needed.

If you have just decided to make your own woodworking machine, then you need take into account the main parameters equipment. Since saws can be different, naturally, the design of the frame can also be different.

First of all, you need determine the power of the tool. As a rule, for home use, equipment is chosen where the power parameters do not exceed 850 watts. But, for example, when building a summer house or a country house, it is often necessary to saw a very large amount of wood.

That is, the power of the circular is required more. But experienced craftsmen do not advise buying saws where this figure is more than 1250 watts. Installing this equipment in a home workshop is absolutely not justified. And working on it will only increase the cost of electricity.

The greater the productivity of the machine, the more stable the base is needed for it. For professional circulars, as a rule, a base is installed, welded from steel profile. Sometimes these beds are even concreted into the floor. Since the vibration of the device can lead to danger to life.

Technical features of circular machines

Depth of the intended incision. This parameter determines the thickness of the material that will be processed on your machine. This indicator in semi-professional and professional machines ranges from 5-8 cm. This is quite enough for cutting boards and thick plywood.

But it will be inconvenient to work with logs on this machine. In addition, it must be taken into account that this characteristic of a homemade saw decreases. The depth of the cut will be approximately 1 cm less. But this can be avoided if the table frame is provided with the ability to lower or raise the disc.

When making a tool with your own hands, you need take into account the frequency of its rotation. If you need a circular for the procurement of building materials, then this figure may be less. If you need a clean and even cut, then the speed is needed quite high. This is necessary, for example, for the manufacture of furniture.

But even in this case, there are certain nuances. This saw is not suitable for cutting plastic materials. Due to very high tool revolutions disk is warming up and the plastic starts to melt.

Therefore, it is better to choose an apparatus where the rotational speed is not more than 4500 rpm, in this case the frame for a circular saw can be make from wood. The vibration of this machine is low and additional strengthening of the table is not required.

Well, in the end, what needs to be considered is the location of the buttons and other controls on your machine. When assembling the saw with your own hands, do not forget that access to the control panel should be safe. This rule is all the more important in the case when the open part of the saw is at the bottom of the table top.

In this version, the panel with switches is best placed from the outside of the machine or make a rising tabletop. This design is also convenient for servicing the device. Then, when you have taken into account all the nuances and little things, you can begin the direct assembly of the table.

Making a circular saw with your own hands

The simplest version of the frame for the circular is a structure made of boards and thick plywood. Moreover, the tool itself is attached to the bottom of the stationary tabletop. A special slot is made for the saw in the table lid.

The dimensions for the table can be changed as it will be convenient for you to work on it. For example, an average table is described, the height of which is 110-120 cm. But a lot depends on the height of the person working with the equipment. Also, according to your desire, you can change the length of the tabletop.

If you plan to work with boards that have a length of more than 2.6 m, then the cover on the frame will need more. In this case, it is necessary to make changes directly to the design and additionally add some supports(legs). Otherwise, the table will create strong vibrations.

For countertops usually plywood is used, which has a thickness of at least 5 cm. But you can also choose plexiglass or fiberglass slabs. But professionals do not recommend using chipboard, this material is not reliable enough.

Tools and materials for assembly

For a circular saw, it is imperative to provide guides. They help to cut wood much more accurately. This design welded from steel and fixed to the lid with clamps.

It is undesirable to fix stationary guides, since later you will not be able to change their position.

To build a table, you will need the following materials:

sheet of iron;
plywood sheet;
beam size 50 × 50 mm;
board size 50 × 100 mm;
steel corner for guides;
two clamps;
hand circular saw.

You also need to pre-prepare all the tools that will be needed to assemble the table:

Screwdriver, electric drill.
Hacksaw or electric jigsaw.
Measurement tools (tape measure, square, ruler).
Hand mill or milling machine.

When everything is prepared, you can begin to assemble the table itself. Sometimes craftsmen collect countertops from unnecessary dining or kitchen tables. But this design is unlikely to last long. Therefore, it is much more reasonable to make all the structural elements with your own hands. In this case, you can also take into account your personal needs.

Making a tabletop for a circular machine

The assembly of the table begins with the manufacture of the countertop. The plywood sheet is marked so that the two edges of the cover are in size with the edges of the iron sheet. Plywood is cut with a hacksaw or a jigsaw.

The edge of the saw cut can be processed with a cutter, but this operation is optional. Since in the frame the main parameter is reliability, and not an attractive appearance. The tabletop is rubbed “roughly” with sandpaper.

From the bottom of the tabletop mark slot for circular circle. Why first you need to measure the dimensions of the sole of the unit. The easiest way to do this is to unscrew the disk from the device and simply circle the desired part of the saw. These measurements are required to determine the footprint.

With the help of a hand cutter, bars are selected to a depth of approximately 0.9-1.1 cm. If you do not have a cutter, then this work can be done using a chisel, but it will take much more time.

Then, when the seat is made, try on the saw and, if necessary, correct the recess. Mark the slots for the circle and fix the fasteners. If you want the circle to rise and fall, then you need to install pendulum mechanism for table top.

In this case, the slot must be made in the form of a truncated pyramid. In this case, the hypothetical top of the pyramid will be directed downwards. Directly frame for hoist is best make from steel that are welded to each other.

Making a table frame

The markings for fixing the transverse rails and longitudinal ones, which act as stiffeners, are best installed on the wrong side of the countertop. The planks themselves are made from a bar. You will need:

Two transverse parts, long equal to the width of the countertop minus 7-9 cm on each side.
Two longitudinal ribs, equal in size to the length of the cover minus 7-9 cm on each side.

Then you need make nests for screws. The slats must be fixed on the lid so that the tabletop extends 7-9 cm beyond the edges of the frame. The fasteners must be as reliable and durable as possible.

The first fastener must be installed approximately 40-50 mm from the edge of the rail. The distance between the screws is approximately 23-25 cm. All details need to drill through. The self-tapping screw is attached from the side of the lid so that its head is completely recessed into the tree.

First fix the transverse ribs. To make the table cover as strong as possible, the edges of the rail must first smear with carpenter's glue. The structure is fixed with clamps, and without removing them, screws are screwed in.

The tabletop is allowed to dry completely. After that, the longitudinal rails are installed in the same way. Then the parts of the frame are pulled together with two fasteners on each side. Now the clamps can be removed.

Mounting legs (supports)

Table legs are made from timber. The height of the supports is selected individually. In practice, it is most convenient to work at the machine when the worktop located at hip level. Before fastening, each support must be planed so that the leg descends from below to an angle. So, the area of the base of the support should be slightly larger, in contrast to the area of the top.

It is best to secure the legs with steel corners. They need to be slightly pressed so that the base of the machine is in the "strut". This gives the table extra durability. Bolts with washers are used as fasteners, they are fastened with caps outward. Otherwise, during operation, you can be injured on the protruding parts of the fasteners.

The whole structure will be more stable if additional supports are pulled together with diagonal rails. They are attached in pairs from each side of the machine.

Cover surface polished and varnished or use a steel sheet for coating, which is mounted on self-tapping screws. At the very end, on the prepared place, the tool is attached directly.

On the table top additional markup, it will help to cut wood evenly and correctly. The control panel of the circular saw is located on the outside of the machine. As a rule, it is mounted on one of the legs of the table. That's all, the circular saw with your own hands is ready.

A circular saw is a specialized piece of equipment that is used for sawing wood, laminate, some types of wall panels, sheet materials such as plywood, OSB, chipboard. When carrying out a number of construction and repair work and carpentry operations, the presence of a stationary type sawing machine can significantly reduce time costs and improve the quality of the result. If it is not possible to purchase a factory-made model, then you can assemble a circular saw with your own hands. To make it yourself, you will need the most common locksmith tools and the skill to work with them. The more necessary materials and parts are available, the cheaper the project will be.

A stationary circular saw is designed to perform fairly large amounts of work. The design of the implemented option in two forms is shown in the diagram below. It also indicates basic installation dimensions, from which it is recommended to build on self-assembly.

In the drawing, the following structural elements of home-made equipment correspond to the numbers:

1 - frame (bed);
2 - side panel;
3 - starting device;
4 - mechanism for adjusting the height of the table, 13 - its stops;
5, 6 and 7 - two halves of the sawing table with a base;
8 - electric motor;
9 - platform for installing the motor;
10 - studs (M10);
11 - saw;
12 - shaft;
14 and 16 - driven and driving pulleys, respectively;
15 - belt;
17 - switch.

Advice! To improve personal safety when operating a homemade mechanism, its rotating parts located under the table should be covered with lids. A protective cover must be installed over the disk during equipment downtime.

It is better to place the starting device in a prominent place on the panel (made of dielectric material) so that access to it is free. It is also recommended to equip the machine emergency switch. It is convenient when it is large.

Focusing on your own needs, you can improve the unit by making it with a jointer or planer. To do this, it is enough to fix the drum with knives on the existing shaft, and make a slot in the table for it of the appropriate size. This will expand the functionality of the created installation: planing lumber on it, chamfering and choosing a quarter from wooden blanks.

If you plan to regularly perform carpentry operations on home-made equipment, then it is recommended to equip it with coordinate table with multiple guides. They need to be fixed at different angles. To organize productive work, you should also provide for the possibility of regulating the speed of the electric motor and quickly replacing disks if necessary.

Selection of materials and details

When creating a homemade circular saw, it is necessary to maintain an optimal balance between its functionality, safety during operation and manufacturing costs. To achieve this, it is necessary to select materials and parts with the desired characteristics. To reduce costs, you need to build on old or unused equipment that is available.

Materials for the manufacture of a bed with a table

For the manufacture of the frame (frame), you can use channel or metal corners(enough size from 25x25mm to 50x50mm). If these materials are not available, then the most economical option is to purchase them at a scrap metal collection point. Water pipes or profile pipes made of metal will go to the legs of the machine.

Advice! The frame elements must be connected to each other using electric welding, because the bolted connections are untwisted under the influence of vibrations.

When assembling the frame, it is also required to weld spacers at the corners to stiffen the structure. To facilitate the movement of the machine, you can equip it with durable wheels (with a metal rim) equipped with locks. It should be borne in mind that the more massive the unit being created, the more stable it must be in order to avoid injury.

Metal pipe frame

The main requirements for a circular table are: resistance to mechanical stress (vibration, shock), the ability to withstand workpieces weighing more than 50 kg without deflection, and surface smoothness. These properties are characterized by sheets of the following materials:

become;
duralumin;
silumin;
textolite;
moisture resistant plywood;
organic glass.

If use moisture resistant plywood, then it should first be upholstered with zinc-coated tin. The use of chipboard or OSB is not recommended due to the instability of these sheet materials to vibration effects.

Important! The strength of the table is of great practical importance. If it cracks or is skewed due to deflection, the disc may jam. This can lead not only to damage to the workpiece, but also to injury.

To carry out various work (for example, spreading logs on boards), you need to equip a table side stop. It performs the same function as the guide rail for a hand-held circular saw: it ensures smooth sawing of lumber. At the same time, its use allows obtaining blanks of different sizes.

Guide stop must be strictly parallel to the disk to avoid jamming of the latter. It can be made from a wooden block or a metal corner. In the first case, only hardwood should be used. To be able to adjust the working gap, the stop must be removable. It can be fixed with clamps or in special grooves (bolts) made parallel to each other on the working surface of the tabletop.

Choice of engine and starting equipment

As a drive for the considered version of a home-made circular machine, it is easiest to use single-phase electric motor. Its power must be selected taking into account the upcoming load. Indirectly, you can navigate by the diameter of the installed disk:

if it is 350 mm, then for the normal operation of the unit you need an electric motor with a power of 1000 W;
for a disc with a diameter of 170 mm, a 500 W motor is sufficient.

In the latter case, it is possible to make a drive mechanism from an engine from a washing machine. It is able to work for a long time at an average load level. For discs with a diameter of 350 mm, an electric motor from an industrial ventilation unit is suitable. It should be fixed rigidly to ensure proper engagement of the belt drive. For this reason, it will not be possible to reduce the level of vibrations by installing the motor on shock absorbers: it will constantly fluctuate.

You can also equip homemade equipment three-phase electric motor(at 380 V) of suitable power. To start it from a 220 V network, you will need to additionally install a working (phase-shifting) and starting capacitors in the electrical circuit. It should also be borne in mind that the engine power in this case will be less than the nominal value indicated on its plate or in the passport.

Starting equipment should be selected based on the power of the motor, on which the maximum current in the circuit will depend. A good option is to use a start button in conjunction with thermal protection - this will protect the electric motor from burning out the windings if the current increases when the disk is jammed. It is better to install protection in a separate electrical panel attached to the side panel of the machine from a convenient side.

All connections must be well insulated so that the wires are not shorted to the frame of a homemade circular saw. The on and off buttons should be pressed without any effort. Due to the frequent storage of equipment outdoors, the electrical part must be well protect from getting wet. The simplest is to cover the unit with oilcloth or similar waterproof material.

Transmission, shaft and disc

To transfer rotation from the electric motor to the disk, the best option is to use V-belt together with pulleys from the car engine. Gears are not recommended for safety reasons. This is due to the fact that if the disk jams, the belt will simply slip, and the gear transmission, due to its rigidity, can cause the entire drive unit to fail.

Advice! If you use pulleys of different diameters, then it will be possible to change the speed of the disk and install various types of it on the machine. This is true in the absence of a motor speed controller.

Shaft manufacturing it is better to entrust a specialist by ordering it from a professional turner. Especially when it is planned to make the circular saw more functional by equipping it, for example, with a planer. But the easiest option is to buy a finished factory-made part. Her sample is shown in the photo below.

Disc for circular machine it is easier to buy ready-made than to make it from a sheet of tool steel. The problem is balancing. The imbalance of the saw during the operation of the equipment leads to its rapid failure and reduces the level of safety of the work process. If there is a circular saw for wood, then you can remove the saw blade from it.

It is necessary that the diameter of the blade correspond to the corresponding parameter of the sawn timber being cut: for example, for 100 mm logs, you will need to use a saw with a size of approximately 350 mm. This is due to the fact that the disk should not protrude more than a third of its diameter above the working surface of the table.

Ignoring this requirement leads not only to a deterioration in the quality of sawing workpieces, but also increases the possibility of injury.

Algorithm for assembling a homemade circular saw

The assembly of the woodworking machine according to the previously given drawing is performed in the following sequence:

from the corners make a rectangular frame;
four legs are welded to it at the corners of the desired height;
at a height of about 200 mm from their lower edge, they make a harness from the corners;
a shaft is mounted on the upper frame;
a driven pulley is fixed on one side of it, and a disk on the other;
a table with a lifting mechanism is made and attached to the frame;
on the lower frame, a platform is made of corners or sheet metal for an electric motor;
a drive pulley is fixed on the motor shaft;
put the belt on the pulleys;
on the side panel of the unit, on and off buttons and an electrical panel are mounted;
using wires of a suitable section, connect the elements of the electrical circuit of the equipment (motor, buttons, protection);
supply power to the machine from a fixed network.

The final step is checking the performance of the assembled equipment. To begin with, it is worth making sure that all moving parts rotate freely: for this, just twist the drive pulley by hand. Then you can run the unit in test mode. If a strong vibration is detected, then it will be necessary to check the reliability of the bolted connections and the fixation of the disc.

You can make a circular saw with a table consisting of two halves or one piece. In the latter case, it will need to cut a rectangular slot for the disk. The design of the machine with a table consisting of two halves is shown in the video below. Also in this video, the device of the lifting mechanism for these parts is demonstrated.

Important! To prevent the saw from jamming due to the connection of fragments of the workpiece being cut, it is recommended to install a riving knife. It should be positioned at a distance of approximately 3 mm behind the disc.

To adjust the belt tension, the motor must be installed so that it can be moved. The easiest way to achieve this is to create larger slots than are required for the motor mounting bolts. In this case, the expansion of the holes must be carried out in the direction of the belt tension.

If you follow the drawing completely, you will need to make a more complex belt tension mechanism. The process will be carried out by pulling up the platform with the electric motor with the help of studs and fixing it with locking bolts in the desired position (in the drawing, these structural elements are indicated by the number 10).

The entire design and assembly process can be greatly simplified if circular saw blade. In this case, the need to mount a number of parts (motor, disk, shaft, belt, starter) is eliminated. But the capabilities of the created model will be limited by the power of the tool used.

Homemade circular anyway must be grounded. It is also recommended to install a residual current device or a differential circuit breaker in the shield. These measures will protect against electric shock if the machine body is energized, for example, due to a breakdown in wire insulation. Components for the electrical part of the circular machine are best chosen so that they are suitable for repair and easy to maintain. Free access to equipment nodes will help to replace failed parts without any problems.

The household often lacks a circular saw, especially if major repairs or construction are underway. Not everyone can afford industrial products - they are too expensive. But you can make a circular yourself, using the materials that are available in the household.

Design - the main nodes, their purpose

A do-it-yourself stationary circular saw is created with advancement in several possible directions:

adaptation of an existing hand tool, using an engine and a circular saw for new opportunities;
improvement of industrial products to expand functionality;
assembly from separate parts, made mainly in-house.

A stationary circular machine includes several main components: a table, a shaft, an engine, and some others, the characteristics of which are not so important.

The table serves for fixing woodworking mechanisms. It can be assembled completely from metal, which is preferable, especially for machine tools with a large engine. Wood also makes good circular tables. But it must be borne in mind that the countertop should be covered with a sheet of metal, otherwise the wood will soon wear out. Tables must be very rigid and stable, capable of withstanding a considerable load during work. The surface is made perfectly flat; protective shields must be installed above the rotating parts.

For a homemade circular, the engine from the washing machine is well suited. Portable tools are less suitable: their collector motors are designed only for short-term work. They have very high speeds, low efficiency, they are afraid of clogging. You can use a three-phase electric motor, but if there is no 380 V on the farm, you will need to purchase capacitors to make it work from 220 V.

The most responsible node is the shaft. Use ready-made, if available, or machined from round metal. Work on a lathe is performed in one setup, then, together with the working bodies, the centering is checked. Even the minimum beat is unacceptable, otherwise it will become stronger in work, at which it is unacceptable to work. Seats are provided on the shaft: for a circular saw and for pulleys on the other side. You can also make grooves for planer knives.

Basic parameters - calculation of power, revolutions, transmission

The characteristics of the saw blade, the engine and the maximum thickness of the lumber that can be cut are interrelated. On the purchased circular disk, the maximum speed for which it is designed is indicated. The number of revolutions transmitted by the engine to the shaft should be less. The power of the motor influences the maximum allowable sawtooth diameter. The diameter must be at least three times the thickness of the material, otherwise sawing will be difficult. It is believed that for sawing materials with a thickness of 100 mm, you need a motor of at least 1 kW of power.

The transmission is made only by a V-belt - if foreign objects get under the saw, the material is jammed, the belt slips on the pulleys. Traumatism in such cases is practically excluded. It is important to choose the right gear ratio. We take into account two indicators: engine speed and the maximum allowable number of revolutions of the circular saw. We calculate the required diameters of the pulleys. A pulley with a large diameter is installed on the engine, and a smaller one on the shaft for the circular to increase the number of revolutions.

The revolutions of the shaft with a circular saw are as many times greater than the revolutions of the engine, as the diameter of its pulley is smaller than the diameter of the pulley on the engine.

Woodworking machine - a capital product for the home

For working with wood in large volumes, it is better to have a machine that allows you to cut the material, plan, choose a quarter. Requires a sufficiently powerful electric motor, hard table. We present a structure made of steel angle and sheet steel. It provides a cutting depth of 60 mm, it is possible to plan boards with a width of 200 mm. A three-phase motor 1.1 kW, 2700 rpm is used. Capacitors are required for connection to 220V.

1 - machine frame; 2 - panel; 3 - starter; 4 - a device for adjusting the height; 5.7 - desktop of two halves; 6 - base; 8 - engine; 9 - platform; 10 - studs M10; 11 - circular disk; 12 - shaft; 13 - stops of the lifting mechanism; 14 - driven pulley; 15 - belt; 16 - drive pulley; 17 - switch.

The working table has dimensions of 700×300 mm. In the drawing we see that the height of the entire structure is 350 mm. The height is insufficient for comfortable work, the circular will have to be installed on an additional platform, it weighs only 35 kg. You can increase the length and width, increase the height up to 1200 mm. We adjust the rest of the dimensions to fit them, but the design features remain unchanged.

First, we make the bed frame from steel corners 25 × 25 mm. If we are not going to increase the height, we make another same lower frame. For a frame with a greater height, first we weld four legs from the same corners to the upper frame, and then we tie them at a height of 15–20 cm from the bottom. The lower frame has slots for the motor platform locking bolts. Two studs are welded to the back side of the platform, which go into the holes on the back of the lower frame. Tightening the studs, tighten the belts, then lock the platform by tightening the nuts on the studs that go into the grooves.

To adjust the height of the table in relation to the saw, we use a simple lifting mechanism. It consists of racks, in the upper part of which we cut grooves at an angle of 45 °. In total, eight racks are needed - four on each side. We weld them to the frame with grooves located in a mirror image. We attach the crossbars to the outer racks. In the middle of each of them we drill holes, weld nuts. Threaded shafts will move along them to control the rise.

At the end, they rest against the racks welded to the drawers assembled from the corners of 75 × 50 mm. On the side, we weld the studs into them opposite the grooves for the adjusting mechanism. The table consists of two equal halves and is attached to the sides with countersunk bolts. The adjustment mechanism works like this:

loosen the nuts on the racks;
turn the screw that presses the stop, raising or lowering the table;
tighten the stud nuts;
perform a similar adjustment for the second half of the working surface.

The design can be simplified without installing the adjusting shaft. Raise and lower the table manually. If you assemble the table not from two halves, but as a solid one, you will need only four racks for the lifting mechanism.

Hand-held circular saw - turning into a stationary one

It is easy to make a stationary one from a manual circular saw, expanding its capabilities. The first thing you need is a table. Finnish plywood will serve as a convenient material, which, unlike ordinary plywood, is laminated - the workpieces slide well over the surface during processing. It is thick enough to withstand a lot of weight, moisture resistant, and can be processed well. You can use ordinary plywood 20 mm, only it needs to be painted, and it is better to cover it with sheet steel or textolite.

It must be understood that the depth of cut will decrease by the thickness of the cover. You will need a large diameter disc so as not to reduce functionality compared to a portable tool. We make the dimensions of the tabletop sufficient so that the workpiece fits in width. It should be added that an electric plane and a jigsaw can be additionally strengthened on a wide table, which will make the machine universal.

Using drawings and explanations, it is not difficult to make accessories for a circular saw that will expand its capabilities.

We mark a rectangle of the required dimensions on a sheet of plywood, cut it out, process the edges. With the sole we apply a hand circular to the surface and mark the attachment points with a pencil. We make a slot for a circular saw. You can slightly deepen the attachment point using a cutter, but not more than 10 mm, so as not to weaken the tabletop. This manufacturing method will bring the depth of cut closer to the circular saw indicated in the passport.

We make a frame (tsargi) from the boards, which we will install from below to strengthen the structure. We fasten four boards into a box, glue it to the countertop, securing it with clamps. Through the table we screw screws into the boards. The holes for them are countersinked on top so that the heads of the self-tapping screws are hidden. We fasten the legs to the sides of the stationary saw, preferably with bolts with washers and nuts. The table should be provided with additional rigidity, so we make spacers at the bottom of the legs.

We make a restrictive bar equal to the length of the working surface. In it we drill two grooves perpendicular to the disk, in which the bar will move and be fixed at a certain distance from the saw blade. It remains to make changes to the control system: we fix the control button in the on state with electrical tape. We install a socket connected to the network on the drawer. In the break of the wire going to the saw, we mount the switch.

Some moments of the execution of home-made devices

No matter how well the circular is made, individual errors can lead to the fact that its performance will be limited. This concerns, at first glance, seemingly trifles. Let's start with the bearings for the shaft. The installation of conventional is justified if the machine is used from time to time. For a homemade device with constant use, it is better to install self-aligning bearings. They consist of two rows of balls, adjustable by tightening the clamping nut. Install a cover to protect against dust, chips is mandatory.

On the working surface, we put a scale in centimeter increments. This will make it much easier to work with the tree when determining the width of the cut. Many neglect the installation of a protective shield over the disc, but in vain - treatment from chips getting into the eye or in more serious situations is more expensive.

When working with different materials, it is often necessary to adjust the speed of the circular saw. A self-made design, as a rule, does not have the ability to control the engine speed. There is only one way out - the use of pulleys of various diameters. They are mounted on the motor shaft. If you undertake to order pulleys from a turner, immediately make a solid pulley with two or three different diameters.

Many people want to install a three-phase electric motor on the sawing machine without having 380 V. You will need capacitors rated for a minimum operating voltage of 600 V paper or oil-paper type.

We calculate the capacitance of capacitors based on the power of the electric motor: for 1 kW - 100 μF for a working capacitor Cf. We take the capacity of the starting Cn twice as large. The SB trigger is a button that automatically returns to its original position. The start is simple: SQ is turned on, SB is pressed for a couple of seconds. After starting, the button is released, as soon as the engine picks up speed, you can cut.