Very often, when repairing the premises is required. After all, the new modern wiring is withstanding all the requirements of the N-number amount of household appliances in the house, while perfectly observing fire safety. Often the owners also want. This is much more convenient than wearing a few extra meters of extension.
The new wiring is best hiding in the walls - and safely, and the eye is nice. To do this, make a sticking - cutting into the ceiling or walls of in-depth channels of standard sizes, in which the cable is then placed. At the end of the work, the deepening is climbing with a solution or putty. This technology is applied not only with capital home repairs, but also in cosmetic, and even during the construction of new houses with the installation of the pipeline.
So why, still, start? How to strob wall under wiring?
Norms and restrictions when sticking walls under wiring
Before proceeding with the tool to the wall, you need to prepare for the process. Initially, it is necessary to calculate the layout plan to calculate on a piece of paper. Note the places of future sockets, switches and points of lighting throughout the house. They should not be too much. Each element should be distorted with a vital necessity. It is also necessary to take into account the materials of the walls and determine the best way to stick of this material.
Regulatory documents on the distribution of wires are collected in SNiP 3.05.06-85. It is best to study them in detail once that then all do not redo it again. Here are the main items to be focused when performing work:
- Shtroba (deepening) should be carried out strictly horizontally or vertically. Kosy lines should not be present. The only exception when wiring must be divorced on the walls with a slope, for example, attic. Then the highway can pass in parallel slope of the wall.
- Between the two electrical points, the groove can be rotated only once. Each turn is a cable fluoride, which in these places will be heated harder. Such conditions may lead to dangerous situations.
- Shorts have limitations in size. The maximum allowable width of the groove is 30 mm, and the depth is 26 mm. The total length of the track from the junction box to a specific point should not exceed 3 meters.
- It is necessary to observe indents: from the battery and gas pipes - at least 40 cm, from the door - 10 cm, and from the ceiling and sex at least 5 cm, although it is desirable, still adhere to 10 cm.
- It is prohibited on the inner carrier walls. The thickness of the outer walls from the shallow groove is not injured, but the permission of the municipal authority should be taken on the carrying partitions. This is especially true of panel houses. The stroke of the walls under wiring on the first floors should be made with special accuracy - the lower walls hold not only the roof, but also the entire building.
- It is impossible to concern when sticking of reinforced concrete design. This may entail a violation of the integrity of the design and, as a result, the loss of its reliability. In case of acute necessity, the grooves in reinforced concrete must be shallow, and the reinforcement grid will not go.
- When you do the grooves in the ceiling - you need to calculate the shortest path to the point of lighting.
- In the floor slab overlap to make shifts is prohibited. If you need to conduct wiring on the floor, then the best solution will make it in the concrete screed. It must be pouring with the calculation on the grooves for wires.
- Brick walls are easier to stick, rather than concrete. This must be considered when choosing a tool and the availability of appropriate skills.
- When sticking, it is necessary to protect the respiratory tract from dust by a mask or respirator.
Important! The sticking always occurs with elevated noise effects. The whole house will hear your work, thanks to the inevitable vibration of the walls. Therefore, such work should be carried out on weekdays from 10 to 17 hours. Then mutual understanding will save your nerves and at neighboring repairs.
There are four main ways to do the grooves. The main difference is to use the tool and exiting this technologies.
- Hammer and chisel. The disadvantage of such a method is the inconvenience of the work of "Dedovsky" tools. Even with a good snorkee, it goes long and with crooked horses. A huge plus can be called the cost - cheaply unequivocally.
- Impact drill (perforator). Minus - Strob with uneven edges. Pros - the speed of the process and relative purity when working.
- Bulgarian. Cons - a large amount of dust, which is difficult to collect even a construction vacuum cleaner. Plus - smooth recesses in a short period of time.
- Stroboresis. Minus - High Tool Cost. For one-time use, it turns out too expensive. Pros - quickly, not so noisy, smooth edges of the stroke, without dust.
Preparation and markup of the working surface
First of all, you need to check the walls on the old wiring. For this, there are special testers and indicators, the principle of which is based on the overall circuit of electricity. It looks like that - from the total chipboard to the electrical point, for example, the socket is suitable for two wires - phase and zero. According to the phase, there is a current from the chopping point to the point constantly, regardless of whether something is connected there or not. The zero wire is under voltage only when the instrument is enabled. And only then return the current back to the chopper. Indicators catch the phase wire. In many indicators on top there is a special light bulb that lights up when the purpose is located. This phase of preparation is necessary to protect themselves from shocking.
After checking, you need to draw a future route on the wall - from the junction box to each connection point.
Before starting work, be sure to curtain the doorways with a wet cloth or a construction film. Do not wear a tightly closed door - small dust particles still will find the loophole.
Tools for wall strobs
With home repairs, many face a question - how to strobs a concrete wall under wiring, with their own hands. To do this, there are various tools specifically about which will be indicated below.
Hammer and chisel - perfect partners
This work is performed by individual stages. First you need to make a chisel on one or two widths of his spider out the edges of the stroke. Then, putting the edge across the groove, you need to knock out a small piece of wall in depth. Next, you can act in two ways - first remove the entire top layer of the intended deepening and only then knock out the depth of the groove, or "dig" deeper to the end after every centimeters of the removed upper layer.
Important! With the help of a hammer and chisel to make a stroke in concrete almost unreal.
Perforator. He is a shock drill
To perform the stroke, this tool needs three nozzles - two brows of different lengths and a blade. First, it is necessary to drill holes with a depth of 2.5 cm along the entire length of the intended line. They should be evenly located at a distance of 1-1.5 cm apart. Then, changing the boring on the shovel, walk along the furrow from the point to the point, forming a solid groove. You can work perforator quickly and clean. And after the end of the work it turns out a highway of a given depth and width. And the unattractive appearance will later be disguised as putty.
Important! You can not put the blade of the perforator across the furrow. Otherwise, an unplanned piece of wall can be broken.
Universal Bulgarian
In order to use the grinder in the stroke, she needs a diamond disk. High-quality cutting such a disk is highlighted by special accuracy and in the process does not leave either chips or cracks on the working material. An important factor is also reduced noise level.
First you need to make parallel inspiments that will be clear boundaries of the future short. The width between them must correspond to the standard sizes necessary for laying the cable. Then with the help of a chisel or perforator to deepen the furrow to the desired sizes. Differences between previous ways are essentially minimal. However, the edges of the shine are smooth. It is very important when damage to the material of the walls is required to reduce "to zero". But, it should be noted that Bulgarian gives a lot of dust, which in a short time can cover the entire room. To avoid this, you can attract a person with a construction (not household!) The vacuum cleaner that will keep the suction pipe close to the dusting spot.
Stroborez, or how to stamp the wall under wiring without dust
Stroborez is a tool that has absorbed and modified all the advantages of the grinder needed to cut the furrows in the wall. He has two diamond circles whose distances can be adjusted, depending on the desired size of the furrow. A special powerful cover closes from above both circle more than half. And when entering circles into the wall, this casing, fully adjacent to the wall, isolates the cutting space. And the resulting dust is pulled through the provided removal for the vacuum cleaner. After the cutting of the edges, the extra material still will have to choose the perforator. However, the edges will turn out perfectly smooth and without extra dust. The main minus is the price of a tool that will be too high for home conditions.
Specific features of the stroke
Sometimes it is necessary to deal with non-standard situations in which general knowledge is needed and a little bit of tips. Among the most common were chosen below the presented.
Strosion of walls under air conditioning
For domestic air conditioner with two standard blocks - internal and outer, special dimensions are needed. The minimum width must be 60 mm, and the depth is 50 mm. Such dimensions will allow you to place all the "stuffing" consisting of two copper tubes with insulation, two wires and corrugations for condensate removal without damage.
Strosure of wooden walls
When carrying out wiring in a wooden house, incl. Ban, the stroke of the walls is prohibited by fire safety rules. In essence, physically it would be a simple cutting (hollowing) groove, which would be an inexped to the process. For such cases, there is an outer wiring hidden by special cable channels, disguised "under the tree".
Harps of plasterboard
The sticking in the sheets of drywall is impossible due to its fine and fragile design. The cable is laid behind the sheet. The only possible option is to do the holes for the socket with a special nozzle-crown on the perforator.
Strob in the tiled floor
Bathroom and kitchen - two rooms, where the shit in the wall may be needed. There should be no special problems with such a process. The only nuance is to install appropriate diamond discs on the grinder or strokeshes. The perforator is not recommended to use it to avoid cracks in the tile.
What to close the stroke
Finally, the shtrtoba is made, all cables are laid in place. It remains only well and high qualityly close the deepening, then to begin the final painting. So what is the whole process:
- First, the furrow should be cleaned thoroughly clean. For these purposes, it will be suitable as a building vacuum cleaner and a broom of dust.
- Then it is necessary to qualitatively primed a furrow. To do this, it should be abundantly wetting the brush with a primer and close the deepening of the material.
- Wait for a complete drying of the primer.
- Before the final staging of embelling, a furrow is necessary to moisten with water.
- Immediately proceed to close up with one of the materials - or a plastering solution for cables (option - building gypsum), or by the mounting foam for pipes.
Following these uncomplicated advice, it is possible to engage in the stroke of the walls yourself. The main thing is desire and a little bit of patience!
The inalienable component of the latent posting is the strides. These are special channels (trenches), made on the sides and walls, the electrical cables are stacked in them. After the end of the installation work, the deepening in the walls should be embedded using a hardening, non-combustible mixture.
Features of the strobe pads under the wiring
Stroke in concrete under the wiring
Different material when sticking behaves differently. Most of the most difficulties occur when it is done in the proponal walls in concrete walls, in this case, strokesis and perforators are used. If we are talking about a brick wall, you can do without letting the tranche, cables are attached to the wall of the dowels.
If the wiring is required to be pre-placed in a metal casing, the horizontal displacement of the channels is carried out using a grinder or bit. Brick walls, if they are crushed, then by seam. It is determined by the fact that the cement mortar is militant and softer brick.
Basic rules and features of the stroke:
- The depth of vertical trenches should not exceed 1/3 of the thickness of the wall.
- The deepening is carried out strictly horizontally or strictly vertically, the slopes are allowed only if there are uneven plates at home.
- The depth of horizontal grooves should not be more than 1/6 of the ceiling thickness.
The stroke of the bearing walls is categorically prohibited.
How to close the shoes in the wall with electrical wiring
To decide whether to close the shoes after laying the wiring, you need to familiarize yourself with the features of work in the walls made from different materials. To close the holes, a sprayer is required, a tank for kneading mortar, trowel, brush and spatula.
Concrete
Wetting the channels of the ships before coating of the primer with the subsequent sealing
Before embarking on the ordering of the grooves, it is necessary to richly moisten with clean water itself and the place is near it with the following work inventory:
- a piece of foam rubber or sponge;
- spray;
- wide brush with a synthetic pile.
Pre-trenches are ground and after close up with a construction mixture. It is applied using a spatula with wide strokes crosswise. After hardening, the excess substance is removed with an iron spatula. Movements should be stroking, smooth. After complete drying, the surface is sweeping.
Brick
Inserting a stroke for wiring in a brick wall
Conducting works in brick walls is accompanied by a large amount of dust. Before embarking on the grooves, you need to remove dust and process the working surface with clean water.
The furrows are recommended to be embedded with alabaster or gypsum solution. If the groove is deep, it is permissible to use small pieces of stones moistened in the construction solution. Next, the remaining empties are carefully filled with a solution with a trowel.
Monolithic Wall
Works in this case are similar to the works in the wall of concrete, aerated concrete. The deepening is filled with a viscous smell. The solution is filled with the cavity as tight as possible.
If necessary, the construction mixture is applied to several approaches. After complete drying, the surface is aligned with a spatula.
Materials for shrinking stroke
Before lining the posting shots, you need to choose the appropriate material:
- Gypsum plaster. It is used in rooms with high humidity, the time of complete drying is 24-26 hours.
- Plastering mixture based on cement and sand.
- Ready mixes, for example, the will, basics and Rotband.
- Gypsum glue, for example, perllfix.
Glue Gypsum Mounting Plaster Plaster Universal 
Plaster cement cement plaster
It is important that the wire be a whole, and not surrounded in several places. It is ultimately not recommended to use a mounting foam or sealant to close the holes.
Tools and materials
Tools and materials for embelling stroke
Before starting construction work, you need to take care that the entire necessary working arsenal, including building materials, should be taken care. For proper sealing trenches, it will be necessary:
- The reservoir for kneading the solution.
- Several metal spatulas width 10-15 cm and about 120 cm.
- Tassel, which is suitable for the groove.
- Building plaster or alabaster designed to reliably fix the wiring.
If the room is characterized by high humidity, it is additionally recommended to purchase gypsum plaster.
Preparatory work
Preparatory works include disconnection of power supply and testing the absence of voltage. Of the finished grooves, the dust and dirt and dirt are removed and treated with clean water, primer. To do this, use a sponge, a pulverizer and a brush. It is necessary to process even the most hard-to-reach places.
Works are characterized by increased danger, so it is recommended to purchase safety glasses and gloves.
Stages of the main process
Gypsum plaster should be applied from the center "Elochal". Remove the surplus of the solution you need to smooth, keeping it at an angle of 90 °
After the preparatory work is completed, checking the wiring placed in the grooves does not perform for a vertical / horizontal surface. In places where the wire is not recessed enough, you need to restart the construction tool.
The seal is carried out according to the following technology:
- Dilute the construction mixture in accordance with how this is indicated in the attached instructions for use. Prepare it better by portions, as the substance quickly freezes. Apply to the surface in points of point fixation.
- After the plaster froze and reliably holds the wiring, mixed plaster. Each kind of it is possessed by its limit of the thickness of the layer. If a layer is required with a thickness of more than 500 mm, the process is carried out in several steps.
- A viscous mixture is applied with a small spatula perpendicular to the stroke and cable. Climbing and smoothes until the seeded groove starts coinciding with the wall surface.
- If the homeowners will further paint the surfaces, sealed areas are additionally treated with strips of fiberglass, reinforcing ribbon, construction bandage or sickle. Over tops the layer of plaster, it is important to consider when aligning the surface.
- After all the layers dried well, you can proceed to re-primer surface. If the plaster gave a small shrinkage, you should not worry, this is a normal process.
The final stage of all works is final putty for alignment of horizontal and vertical surfaces. If it is further planned to apply ceramic tiles on the walls, the holding of finishing works is optional.
Competent sealing stroke
Many may seem that the sealing of the stroke is very simple, and anyone can perform this operation. But experience shows that this is not so. Someone has a solution from the stroke, someone crashes, someone, on the contrary, it turns out. In addition, do not everyone know what to close the shoes.
Let's first figure it out what shit. It is essentially a groove, laid in brickwork, plaster, concrete or other solid building materials, for the purpose of laying communications. Usually it is wires or pipes. Also strokers are grooves remaining after removal of beacons from plaster. Of course, they are always required to close.
Here are examples of how it is not necessary to do it: 
Of course, the sealing of defects does not require a diploma of higher education from the artist, but for a good result, only three simple rules must be observed.
- Rule number 1. The entire surface of the stroke is necessary to primitive in the composition of deep penetration. We also recommend reading the article about the primer in front of the plaster. It seems, well, why do you need, they are narrow? But in them, as you understand, a lot of dust. And if you try to just throw a ditch to plaster - it just falls on dust and not stick to the walls. Ringing sound and subsequent coloring is guaranteed. Protecting the shoes must be a narrow wide brush, the primer does not regret. If the brush is poorly climbing in the groove, just water it with the primer with the brushes. The main thing is not to fill your hands, because it is pretty hard to wash off the skin of the dried primer.
IMPORTANT: Pruning follows not only the inside of the shooting, but also the area around it, since the plastering solution will also fall into these places. In addition, it is necessary to wait for a complete drying of the soil before making the seal.
- Rule number 2. Application of the impression of the stroke is made in a special way. At first, immediately before applying the solution, the surface of the groove must be generously moistened with water. This is done in order to reduce the absorption of water from the solution. Thus, we reduce its shrinkage and prevent the appearance of shrinking cracks. Esilicate brick and foam concrete takes particularly much moisture from plaster. But some shrinkage of the solution, as a rule, still occurs. Therefore, the actions described below should be produced twice.
For sealing, it is best to use alabaster, but the usual gypsum plaster. After all, a very fast setting of alabastra is one of the main causes of the shoals during the shocking of the stroke.
How to apply a solution? To begin with, its consistency is made a bit thick than in plaster. Again, in order for less moisture from it, he did not ask. He is applied crosswise. That is, the movement with a spatula should be directed not along the strip, but to its walls. First to one, then to another. So the solution will adhere well to its entire surface. 
If you close up not a stroke, but a relatively big hole, you should first put the plaster along its perimeter and only then to the center.
Tip: Ironelick movement is best done not direct, but zigzag. Such a move will additionally increase the adhesion of plaster with the walls of the shoes.
Again, if you need to close not a stroke, but a hole, to remove the excess solution will have no smooth iron, but by aluminum rule. It is necessary to keep it the same - at right angles to the surface. Here you already need to perform several removal. All of them are made from the center of the hole to its edges, as in the picture:
It is in this way, and not from the edge to the edge - this is important!
These are such three simple rules for the competent embezzlement of the strokes with their own hands. Following them, you will definitely get an excellent result.
How to close the shoes
No building is done without wiring. If cables are packed along the walls in the strokes, then the incorrectly embedded strides with the cable can spoil the results of the labor of the large team. First of all, it must be borne in mind that the layer of plaster or putty in the stroke can repeatedly exceed the layer of this material along the rest of the wall. Consequently, the drying time of the sealed shoes is significantly larger than the time of drying the rest of the wall. For example, if the shoes close at the same time with a putty wall with a fogenfuller, then the wall in a day can be ready to apply the finish putty on it, and at the same time just started to grab, although the surface layer seems to seem. In the stroke, the fogenfuller completely dries away, as a rule, for three days. If you apply a layer of finishing putty on top of a non-dried plot, then it begins to prevent the evaporation of moisture from the shooting, as a result of which the drying of the putty in the stroke slows down significantly. In this case, the slightest deformation in a relatively thick layer of fogenfuller in the stroke leads to cracks that are transmitted to the finish putty.
Climbing the shoes, never try to fulfill this work in one pass. The same fogenfuller is expanding when they are expanding, and if they close a stroke with several cables in one pass, trying to immediately align the wall, then a tubercle protrudes from the surface of the wall for 1 to 3 millimeters. Within two days, it will be considered a big problem.
Therefore, the shoes are always close in several passes. In the first pass, the Shtroba is filled at 80 to 90 percent. All empties in the stroke are carefully filled. If the excess putty is formed, then it is removed. After complete drying of the putty (or cement plaster), the shtroba is closed under the finishing putty, almost one level with the rest of the wall. When used for sealing, the shutter dry mixture M-150 is desirable to add a small amount of cement M500, which will provide an increased hardness of the plaster layer over cables.
Often, the black sealing of the strokes are performed by electricians, which, without having proper skills in plastering, do not grind shorts in front of the sealing, which reduces the reliability of the clutch of the material that fills the stroke with the wall.
Retroges cut by two-disc strokesomes. It is much easier to close than the punched perforator. Therefore, it is always necessary to acquire modern high-quality equipment. With a large number of stroke, the two-disc strokescape will pay off even at the expense of a smaller consumption of plaster and putty, which are required to seal the stroke.
After sealing, stucco-painting works are carried out, as a result of the completion of which the terminal boxes on the walls are often becoming unavailable, in which the conductor connections are made. Although in line with the requirements of standards, it is necessary to provide access to wire connections and cable veins. More information about this problem and ways to solve it can be found in the article typical violations of the rules of the electrical installation.
How to close the shoes in the wall
Often, when repairs, it is necessary to transfer electrical points, for which it has to stick the walls for the cable laying. This is not the easiest job, especially if there is no good perforator at hand, but this process does not end, since it is necessary not only to break through the technological channels, but also correctly consolidate in them cable, and also competently close the shoes .
Tools and materials
It will take to work -
- -The many metal spatulas (10 and 15 cm),
- -The hard gypsum,
- - gruntovka and brush,
- -Gype mix type Rotband.
Instructions for sealing
First of all, after completion of the installation work, the technological channels should be braced for reliability of the further hitch of the mixture and the inner walls of the stroke. The soil creates a thin film on the walls on the wall and this makes it easier to work further. If the primer for internal works is concentrated, it is necessary to dilute it in the water-recommended proportion of water and use the brush to be abundantly on the inner walls of the punched channel.
After completion of the primer, you can not withstand the pause, as before the spit, and immediately proceed to the sealing of the channel with a gypsum plaster. First, the cable is fixed, for which the usual building gypsum is used, which is mixed in the minimum quantity, since it is possible to work with it only a few minutes. In this process, it is necessary to try to mount the cable as close as possible with the intervals of no more than 1 meter, and in the fields of internal and external angles of walls, it is necessary to retreat from an angle of 3-5 cm on both sides.
After that, a gypsum plaster comes into operation. Which has special polymer fillers in its composition, which makes it possible to further avoid cracks on the walls and increases the period of working with the material to 1-2 hours. The technological channel is completely filled with a thick mixture on a plot of 1-2 meters, after which the excess plaster is removed with a metal spatula along (!) Channel.
It is possible to start the painting wall or ceiling with an in-depth wiring immediately after setting the gypsum composition, as a rule, it is 12-24 hours.
Video
If you are better perceive information on the video, then we offer a short roller, which presents the simplest introduction technology of stroke -
Questions and answers
After what time after the misfortune of the stroke, you can plaster them?
Immediately, since in this case the primer is needed not so much to reduce the absorption and strengthen the lobbers, how much to divert the channel. Want to wait - wait, but you can not spend time.
Close up the shoes correct
Greetings all visitors! The theme of today's lesson may seem sucking out of the finger, but in fact a few know how to close the shoes correctly.
Shtroba is a certain groove in concrete, brick or plaster used for laying wires or pipes. It is clear that after laying the relevant communications, this groove needs to be chopped.
It would seem that here it may be difficult - I drove into it a solution, yes removed the spatula too much. But the other day I saw the wild horror, which is depicted in the photo to the post, and decided to write a small article about it. Inserting the stroke and all sorts of holes - the task is not difficult, but still requires compliance with some rules. What?
The first rule is the need for priming
The first and most important rule is not to forget about the primer. The small area of \u200b\u200bthe lobbery or hole does not give us the right to neglect its use. But how to do it? Very easy - brush. It needs to be thickened in the primer and water small sections of the shoes. Do not smear, namely watering, something like the sprinkling of holy water. The primer does not regret. So we can handle the entire surface of the groove or hole, it does not matter whether it is a pipe or wire in it. Ignoring the process of primer can lead to cracks and subsequent shocking of plaster. By the way, it is necessary to primitive, not only the interior of the grooves, but also the place around them.
The second rule is a special solution appliance
Inserting the shock and smear boxes - the better?
07/21/2007 at 03:12 # 11
User j.walker wrote:
I added 15-20% of heat in the alabaster before the knead. Slows down the hardening from 3 to 10-15 minutes. It is more convenient to work. Less time to spend on the kneading and washing gypsum.
It can also be used entirely by plaster (savings between alabaster and rotband / heettle kopeck). I still first put all the distributors of the boxes and pickles (dozens of hundreds of pieces), so for these several hours everything will have time to grab and you can put the wiring.
User vladimir_vas wrote:
Sources:
Fighting rats and mice: To get rid of rats or mice you need to make balls from a special test and put them in habitats. Melt the two parts of the fat, add seven pieces of flour into it and three parts of carbon dioxide barium.
Often, when repaired in an apartment or house there is a need to replace wiring. This is especially true of apartments in a new building, which were put into operation. Often the implementation of such work to go directly on the shoulders of the owners of real estate. The main thing here is to know what to close the strides with the wiring. Of course, you can use the services of professional electricians, which will put the wiring without leaving after that a single track.
Wiring laying methods
The most optimal version of the professionals consider the device of strokes that will play the role of space for cable laying. Retroges are a channel in which the wiring is stacked. After this channel with a cable is lubricated with a solution.
A feature of this option laying wiring is that it is completely hiding in the wall. This turns out a hidden gasket. Of course, this option is used mainly in brick and monolithic houses. In the sander and cutters such a way is extremely undesirable, as it carries fire danger.
If there are walls in the house performed from the frame of the drywall, it is better to use them for laying the cable. In this case, there is no need for a channel device, since the wiring is paved directly in the emptiness of the wall.
What problems may occur with the hidden wiring laying
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Many apartments owners who independently repair their abode believe that the device canvas under the wiring and their seal is a very simple process. It can be easily carried out without any knowledge and skills. But, as practice shows, the device of such recesses and their mask is not such a simple job.
The poor-quality and improper embezzlement of the stroke can lead to many problems. This is especially true of the loss of the solution from the ditch. It is also possible to cracking the surface and even the formation of depressions. But, the main thing is that few people know what exactly you need to close the shoes.
Features of embelling stroke
To close the shoes with wiring in the wall with your own hands, you do not need to have a qualified builder for the sideline. You can do this job almost any person who wants to save on repairing your home. To fully accomplish such work, it is necessary to follow certain rules and advice of professionals:
- Protecting the stroke. This process is very important. After the stroke and laying the cable in the dutches there is a lot of dust and dirt. This leads to a bad clutch of the solution with the wall. To perform it is worth using a wide brush. Do not regret the primer, since this will depend on the quality of the clutch of the solution with the wall. If there is no possibility to penetrate the brush in the ditch, then the primer can be simply pouring. To do this, simply wave a brush and send the spray directly to the ditch. When working with the primer it is worth using gloves. This is due to the fact that it is very badly washed away from the hands after drying.
- Proper applying solution. This process is carried out according to special technology. Before applying putty, the shoes are wetted with enough water. This will reduce the absorption of water by the wall. Due to the insignificant water loss, the putty can die normally and at the same time cracks or some defects are not formed on its surface.
- Proper cleaning of an excess solution. Often, inexperienced builders produce cleaning excess putty by stroking the surface. This leads to the formation of bugs. It is necessary to perform this work to the back side of the smooth. In this case, the tool must be kept perpendicular to the wall. Thanks to this technology, you can prevent the pulling to the tool. During the work, it is worth a follow-up to ensure that there are no influx formed, which may complicate further finishing works.
For embelling, many use Alabaster, considering that it can mostly hide such a recess in the wall. But, nevertheless, professionals recommend using ordinary gypsum solution. The lack of alabaster lies in the fact that it is relatively rapidly collapsing. This leads to the emergence of jambs and defects.
So, the sealing of the stroke is carried out with the help of plaster plaster. To begin with, it is made somewhat thick. This will prevent sending a solution in the ditch. It is necessary to apply it according to a certain technology. First produce vertical movements with a spatula, and then horizontal. Thanks to such monotonous movements, it is possible to maximize the seam with a solution. If the shtrob has a greater width, then the solution should be applied to the edges, and then - in the center.
If we are talking about sealing holes in the wall with your own hands, then it is worth using an aluminum rule to remove an extra solution. Here the tool is also installed at right angles to the wall. At the same time, the movements are carried out from the center of the hole to its edges.
During construction or repair, as a rule, there is a need for a laying of new pipes and wiring. To do this, in the walls and on the floor, shoes are made - special channels, in which heating pipes, sewer and water pipes are stacked, as well as electrical wires. In the untouched form, Shtroba does not look aesthetically, and the risk of their damage increases significantly, so it is necessary to close the shrouds. How to close the shoes in the wall and how to choose the mixture, for putting the shirts correctly.
Sealing stroke
First of all, you need to decide on tools that will be needed for the upcoming work. So, how to close the stroke under the wiring, you need:
- Spatulas (usually taken 15 and 120 cm);
- Primer;
- Brush;
- Building gypsum;
- Gypsum solution (for example, Rotband).
Before the immediate sealing of the stroke, you need to handle their primer. Why do it? The primer is used to further avoid cracks in the plaster and its swing, because in the strokes there are always a lot of dust, which prevents the plaster sticking to the walls of the fixtures.
The primer must be abundantly applied to a large, but narrow brush, and to get into hard-to-reach places, you should pour them with a primer, making a brush wrap. But it is necessary to do it carefully, so as not to sleep everything around.
Next, you need to secure the wiring with ordinary building plaster. Work is performed quickly, because You can only work with the plaster, and it is not necessary to knead it in one in large proportions. Mounting the wiring is needed with an interval of 1 meter, so it will keep tight enough.
Now learn how to close the shoes. For this, it takes and applied with spatulas in the stroke. Importantly comply with certain rules.
First, the solution itself should be more dense than with conventional plaster. Secondly, the solution must be applied crosswise, to the walls of the shroud, and not only vertically. So it will better stick to the surface and will not create unnecessary buggers. Thirdly, it is necessary to remove the excess solution, keeping the smoothness at a right angle from the outside, where the handle is located, and not the plastics. Thus, the gypsum solution is closed with the walls of the shine much better, and it will look careful, because The solution does not stretch behind the spatula. It is necessary to remove the extra solution 1-2 times, it is quite enough. In more detail about the solution, you can find by clicking on.
It must be remembered that when working with plaster or alabaster, a solution is suitable only for 5 minutes. Rotband solution will allow 20 minutes to work. Do not use the finished solution when he began to grab it already lost its properties.
Pipe stroke
The shirt of the stroke in the wall under the pipe is made in the same way, but instead of the construction gypsum for fastening pipes, a mounting foam can be used, and the pipes themselves are insulated with a shell of polyurethane foam or foam. Thermal insulation of pipes will avoid microbial seedlings, and the foam securely fixes the pipes in the stroke. In general, the whole process looks like this: the shorters are cleaned of dust and, insulated pipes are installed, then they are fixed by foam, and after that they are lubricated with a gypsum solution.
Summing up, it is worth highlighting several important items that need to be observed:
- Primer. Obligatory when entering the stroke as under the pipes and under the wiring;
- Mandatory fixation of pipes and wiring;
- Applying stucco "Christmas tree" to the sample in the wall. This will provide the best grip with the surface of the short;
- Removing an excess solution with a spatula at a right angle.
Gypsum solution dries, as a rule, in 24 hours. After this time, you can start painting or ceiling.