When buying a machine, we almost always know its future location. But it often happens that due to size or for other reasons, the place changes. The first difficulty that SM owners face is the long distance from communications. Therefore, today we will talk about whether it is possible to extend the drain hose of an automatic washing machine, and how to do it correctly.
Before extending the hose, you must understand its parameters. Remember: in no case should it be raised higher than 1 meter so that the drainage pump can normally pump out waste water from the tank. If you neglect this recommendation, the low power of the pump will not be enough to drain, the water will linger in the tank.
During connection, you must take care of the free tension of the tube, especially paying attention to the top point. It should be 60 cm higher than the lowest point. This is typical for all cars, regardless of brand and model. But still, if you have everything calculated up to a centimeter, you need additional information. To find out the exact value, look at the user manual - everything is written there. If nothing is indicated in the manual, look for other technical documentation for the CM.
Usually the maximum length of the hose does not exceed two meters, and more often it is only one and a half. If the tube is much shorter, or the standard size is not enough for you, you can go for a trick - instead of lengthening the drain hose, get a new one of sufficient length.
Attention! You can buy the part in a store specializing in the sale of plumbing, or in a service center. If you did not find what you were looking for, go to "online" - find the desired part on the Internet.
To replace the part, you have to disassemble the case. If you are not ready for such a radical action, there is a simpler solution - connecting 2 washing machine hoses. To build a drain hose, take:
- Another new detail.
- Quality clamps.
- Connector for drain hoses.
In principle, you can save on clamps if the connection is tight. But to make sure of this, you will have to visit the store repeatedly - first buy a connector, and then clamps, if there are doubts about the tightness. Also, clamps will come in handy without fail if you can’t pick up a connector.
If you bought a connector
- Fix the hoses in the connector on both sides.
- Secure with clamps.
- Install on the machine and sewer.
- Run a test wash, if everything is fine, the machine can be used.
Without connector
- Find a plastic or rubber tube. Its size should be such that it fits on both hoses.
- Buy clamps.
- The tube is put on the hoses so that they converge in the center. The tighter the tube sits, the better.
- Use clamps for a tighter fit.
If you do not have enough allowable length of 3.5 meters, then there are other ways out of the situation:
- Install equipment closer to communications.
- Zoom in on the drain.
Want to visually see how to extend the drain hose? We offer video:
Having figured out how to lengthen the drain of the washing machine, you have solved only part of the problem. But you still need to figure out what to do with the water inlet hose, if its length is also not enough. About all this - below.
Not sure how to extend the inlet hose? Everything is extremely simple: instead of building up a water supply hose, buy a more authentic part. It is sold in the same place as the parts for the drain system. To change the part, disassembly of the SMA is not needed. Proceed like this:
- Disconnect the SM from the water supply, if it was connected to it.
- Unscrew the fasteners (manually, without tools, so as not to damage the plastic fasteners).
- Installing a new item. When tightening the fasteners, do not use tools - do everything manually.
- Open the valve and check the tightness of all connections.
- If everything is fine, proceed to washing. At least for testing.
If you can’t find a hose of a suitable length, you can lengthen it. Usually the water supply hose is extended by the second of the same element, but you will need an adapter. Use a 3x4 inch brass nipple. To extend the hose for the water supply to the washing machine, simply screw the nipple on each hose, and that's it - the job has been done successfully.
If you had to add or change parts, do not forget to check if your typewriter has enough cord to connect to the mains. If the cord is too short, or vice versa - the outlet is far away, then you need to pay attention to this moment. It is better not to use extension cords to connect the washing machine to the mains. This is fraught with serious damage: such extension filters often provoke a fire. 
Now you know how the drain and intake hose of the washing machine is extended. And wherever your washing machine is, you will always find a way to successfully connect it to all communications.
The beginning of the drain hose is fixed inside the washing machine.
Middle of hose
Lift the middle of the hose up and fasten it to the factory mounts in the form of a ring or hook.
Hose end
Lower the end of the hose down and connect it to the sewer in any of three ways:
Method one
Attach the hose to a plastic holder and drape it over the edge of a sink or bathtub. The drain hose should be at a height of 60 - 90 cm.
Method two
Connect the hose to a special branch in the siphon of the sink and secure it with a clamp. The branch must be located above the sink siphon so that the end of the hose is at least 60 cm above the floor.
If your siphon does not have such a hole, buy a new siphon or use another method.
Method three
Connect the hose to the sewer pipe directly. To do this, use a vertical pipe 60 - 90 cm high and at least 5 cm in diameter.
To seal the junction of the hose and pipe, use a special sealant.
What length of hose can be used
What happens if the hose is connected incorrectly
If you connect the hose incorrectly, water will be drawn into the machine and immediately drained into the sewer. If the water is drained, the wash is interrupted and the error “LE” or “4E” appears on the display. This usually happens at the beginning of the wash or before rinsing.
To do this is a much more complex and multifaceted task than connecting it to the water supply system. Almost every case requires an individual approach here. But, again, everything is solvable, and if you set out to equip the water drain for your washing machine with more than just hanging a hose on a sink or bath, then so be it, everything is in your hands. How to do it?
Sewer EURO-tee for draining the washing machine
If you have a modern plastic sewer Ø40 or Ø50 mm, then everything is simple and there will be no problems with organizing the drain. We purchase an appropriate bend or tee with a bend angle of 45 ° (if we put it under the sink), and a cuff for it with an inner diameter of 25 mm.
When installing the cuff in a tee, do not remove the sealing ring from the socket of the tee, which is often a mistake for people inexperienced in plumbing - it will create an additional guarantee of the tightness of the connection. If the cuff is too tight, warm it up in hot water for a couple of minutes. After such a heat treatment, it will become soft and elastic, and will easily sit in place. All that needs to remain visible from the side is the thin 3mm limiting edge of the cuff.
If you have any problems with the operation of the washing machine, we are ready to provide the service on extremely favorable terms.
Sometimes a very entertaining effect happens: your sewage system is the most modern, the pipe diameter is 50 mm, you buy the corresponding Ø50 mm tee in the store, and it, as they say, does not fit safely in your landing size. Prevents him as much as two extra millimeters of its diameter to enter the pipe. Usually this is not a completely fresh design, from which the version suggests that there was once a production that had its own standards, different from others. And the standard o-ring does not fit them either.
If such a situation has happened, you can go to extremes: remove the sealing ring, fill its bed with sealant, and also coat the tee lead-in. The tee will enter the pipe with the sealing ring removed, but no more than a couple of centimeters. However, its fit is very tight (you will have to drive it into the pipe with good effort), and together with the sealant, it will never let water through. If it stands vertically, this option goes wherever, but if it is horizontal, it’s better to take a Ø40 mm tee and join it through a 50 × 40 transition cuff. Using this method, you will not even suspect that the pipe is somehow different.
The diameter of the corrugation coming from sinks and sinks in 99% of cases does not exceed Ø40 mm, so the use of a tee with such a diameter will not affect the throughput of the pipe in any way. If there is a socket with a diameter of 50 mm at the end of the corrugation, carefully cut it off. It is usually fragile, so we do not put pressure on the cutter, but with light pressure we make rotational movements, and in three or four turns we finish the cut.
Attention!
When buying a cuff 50×25, please note that cuffs with an inner diameter of 32 mm also exist in nature. On an untrained eye, it is extremely difficult to distinguish them from cuffs with a diameter of 25 mm, and more than once I had to scold sellers who put 50 × 32 cuffs instead of 50 × 25 cuffs. I always bought goods in the same store (due to the presence of a very serious discount), and these sellers have been working in this store for more than a year - I mean that it was not a random clerk in household goods, but a serious plumbing store, and the sellers in it were remarkably versed in the product, and did not go through student practice. But, nevertheless, they regularly slipped me the wrong thing. And even a couple of times they tried to convince that the cuff with Ø32 mm is great for attaching the drain hose from the washing machine to it, instead of going 3 steps to the tray with the cuff that I needed.
No. Doesn't fit great. The hose enters it without due effort, and one day it can simply be knocked out of the cuff. By the way, I often heard from people that someone, somewhere, had drain hoses flying out. You often see 50×32 cuffs on a washing machine drain system when people buy a new washing machine and need to install it. That is, the installer of the previous washing machine set the cuff 50 × 32. And this installer came from the official service center, as it turned out unobtrusively. And why do people have hoses flying out, I wonder ..? Mystery…
Draining the washing machine through the sink siphon
Another option for organizing the drainage of water from the washing machine is a siphon equipped with a special fitting. Change the old siphon to a new one, and the trick is in the bag. The fitting, as a rule, is two-dimensional - tapering towards the end. If the hose is worn on it too loosely, cut off the thin end by rotating the cutter with light pressure (the plastic is brittle). To implement the drainage of water through a siphon, it is not always necessary to change it completely. If your siphon is not from Soviet times, but is Euro-compatible, you can simply upgrade its design by adding a spout insert for a washing machine (see photo). They are commercially available in several types - depending on the design of the siphons and the sizes for which they are intended.
If the drain hose is the only option to lead to the kitchen sink, and around it there is a too wide wooden platform that is not covered by the bracket designed to fix the hose, you can also make a circular saw of small diameter on the surface of the platform with a miter saw and lead the hose into the sink from it. In this case, one end of the hose bracket will go inside the hole and will securely hold the hose, which will look like the spout of a small tap. We select the diameter of the saw according to the diameter of the holder bracket plus a couple of millimeters for free play (the holder expands slightly when a hose is inserted into it).
An old cast-iron pipe - a window to EUROPE
If you have a cast iron sewer pipe, we will first have to adapt it to the modern plastic EURO standard using a 73x50 cuff. Usually, the water outlet pipe from the sink is sealed in the sewer systems of the old installation with cement mortar. Sometimes it is a rather weak solution, which easily lends itself to light blows of a hammer on an impact screwdriver, sometimes not very easily, but without much resistance. Once, however, a difficult case came across. Judging by the fact that the solution was removed crumb by crumb, and even the use of a perforator was required in places, it was real concrete. The use of a perforator to remove mortar from cast iron is not very advisable, because the impact energy of the perforator is very serious, and it gives it out in series of several beats per second. In order to avoid the transfer of vibrations from the place of their creation further to other connections of this pipe, which are very capricious to vibration, and even more so, in order to avoid creating resonant effects, it is preferable to work with a more primitive instrument. Longer, but quieter.
When starting work with a cast iron pipe, one should take into account the fact that the joints of these pipes are sensitive to vibration. If this is a pipe in the kitchen, then, as a rule, it is in the strong embrace of the wall, and force on the pipe is not dangerous for everything behind this wall. The maximum that can suffer is the connection of the pipe coming out of the wall with the outlet, with which, in fact, we are working. If this is a tap in the bathroom, then we risk creating a lever that swings the other connections available nearby on this pipe. Plus, old cast iron tends to crumble and crack simply from dilapidation. So before starting work, we evaluate the condition and integrity of the pipe joints, the presence of cracks in the sockets. We examine the places where the pipe is fixed - in order to represent the amount of leverage from our manipulations with it. If you are not sure that there will be no problems, it is better not to take it. Or just be prepared for these problems. Methods for dealing with problems will be described below.
So, the sequence of actions for converting the socket of an old cast-iron pipe into a system compatible with all modern materials is as follows:
At a height of 2-3 cm above the level of cement, we cut off the pipe / corrugation from the sink, introduce something inside that prevents pieces of the split solution from falling irrevocably into the sewer, and at the same time so that this “something” itself does not disappear into the sewer abyss. Any large bag from the grocery supermarket will do - a small part of it remains sticking out, ensuring its return, and what is inside creates a fairly high pillow right in the cross section of the pipe, without contact with the bottom. At the same time, it is advisable, just in case, to ensure that there is no water in the pipe from the draw-off points located farther from it in the direction from the riser (so that our package is still not washed away).
The piece of corrugation sticking out of the cement is a strong reinforcing element of the joint. Therefore, we remove it by processing it in diameter with a screwdriver and a hammer until it acquires mobility - the plastic willingly moves towards the center, yielding its bed to the screwdriver, after which the segment can be “bitten” with pliers and force pulling is applied (usually a hammer with a screwdriver is not even required).
Next, we knock out part of the ring along the radius, as shown in the figure. The direction of the strikes is from the edge to the center, we need to break the integrity of the circle. Do not confuse the concept of "direction of blows" with the blows themselves - we start them from the center, gradually moving away to the outer edge. After the strip has been knocked out of the radius, the cement quite easily leaves the pipe in sectors 4-5 cm long - we carefully knock them down with an impact screwdriver again from the outside to the center. It is not necessary to load an excessive load on our package “airbag” - we pick up everything we can during the process and put it in a pile next to it. The cement is held in the socket not so much by sticking to the pipe, but by tensile forces acting outward. Therefore, if we had the opportunity to strike from the inside of the pipe, it would be much faster and easier. This factor should be taken into account when choosing a cement plug extraction strategy. When everything is removed, we carefully knock down small irregularities inside the bell, striving for the most even surface - the tightness of the cuff fit will depend on this.
Now we take the cast iron / plastic cuff 73 × 50 - if we want to adapt the cast iron to Ø50 mm), and install it in the prepared place. It goes, as a rule, not without effort, but if you doubt the compatibility of the cuff and the bell (sometimes there are bases), cut off the lower seal ring with a clerical knife. If the cuff fell freely to the second ring, it means that everything is fine with the dimensions, and we just apply more force - it’s not a sin at the end and lightly tap with a hammer. If the cuff is held for a couple of minutes in hot water, it usually becomes a little more loyal to its fate. Sometimes there are bells, indeed, of a slightly smaller diameter - trying on a cuff with a cut lower ring gives a little resistance. Depending on this resistance, select the size of the cut of the remaining rings - either half of their height, following the evenness of the cut, or completely. Then the cuff sits in place, and if you coat it with sealant beforehand, then this will not be superfluous at all.
EURO socket for old plastic
Often there is not cast-iron, but old-style plastic sewage. As a rule, it only complements the cast iron at some point and has the same socket diameter. Cement is removed from it easier, without impact. After removing the section of the washing pipe / corrugation, we compress the socket with a pipe wrench in several places along the diameter. Since the plastic is elastic and little susceptible to adhesion to cement, we easily release the socket cavity from physical contact with the cement ring, while simultaneously creating radial cracks in the ring during this compression. The ring, divided into segments, is not glued to the socket and is held in it by the force of compression of the plastic. All that's left now is to simply pull the pieces outwards, applying force from the bottom up. With the same pipe wrench, we hook the sectors from the inside, or use other leverage systems.
It is not uncommon for a plastic pipe to have no socket. Apparently, at one time someone did not bother to remove the cement when replacing the siphon and simply cut the pipe. The recipe in this case is simple, but somewhat unusual. We take a cuff 50 × 40, warm it in hot water and put it on a tee (or branch - depending on the situation) Ø50 mm. He dresses reluctantly, but he dresses. Then we also have to do painstaking work - carefully cut off three thin sealing rings, which, oh, how capriciously are cut off due to their low height, but we are not on the way with them, they stubbornly do not want to let the tee into the socket. However, try it on first - who knows, suddenly you are lucky, although I was lucky only once. We also cut off the upper sealing ring (not the edge, but the RING) - under the cone, in the direction of the lower part of the cuff.
Now, with rotational movements, we connect our design with the pipe until it expands on the cuff. Goes tight, but it's good, given the rather small contact area. However, the connection is strong and reliable.
Draining water for a washing machine: extreme solutions
The condition of the cast-iron sewer does not inspire a drop of optimism, but it’s terrifying how you want the dirty water from the car to pour not into the sink, but into the sewer. The method is also useful when replacing a siphon or corrugation, all other things being equal hopelessness.
Usually the corrugation comes with a diameter of 40 mm. But we will work with it with material Ø50 mm with transition cuffs 50 × 40. Why not just take the right size pipes? The O-ring of the Ø40 series components has too little contact surface area, and the use of the 50x40 adapter collar has the advantage of both area and the fact that the inner part of the adapter collar has three sealing shoulders. We need to provide vertical water retention at the junction of the sleeve and corrugations. We install the cuff in the sleeve using a sealant. Next, we fill the internal cavities of the cuff with sealant, and also apply sealant to the seating part of the corrugation. We introduce the corrugation into the clutch. We mean that a variety of debris will fall into the gap between the walls of the coupling and the corrugation from the sink, which one day may contribute to the creation of a blockage. Therefore, we fill this gap with a sealant (the sealant with a spout used in the mounting gun is already useful here).
Actually, we have converted a piece of corrugation sticking out of the sewer socket into a Euro-connector. Everything else is standard. The sealant is sufficiently viscous not to be washed off by water so that the compound can be used immediately, but try not to overdo it. If possible, it is better not to disturb him for at least the next couple of hours. But if you can't wait to check it out, you can do it right there. Pay attention - we are talking about an extreme option here, which can only be used in a completely hopeless situation, because this heap of cuffs is not good, and is only suitable as a temporary measure. Very temporary.
A rare person now does without a washing machine. Qualitatively executed and carefully selected equipment will last a very long time without failures and utility accidents.
One of the components of such reliability is the correct connection of the washing machine drain to the sewer. Unlike providing equipment with electricity and tap water, the drain device requires more attention.
Can I connect the washing machine to the sewer myself? Such work is quite accessible to any home master who has already dealt with plumbing. If there is no experience, then you need to show increased attention.
Before starting work and before purchasing all materials, it is necessary to study ways to drain dirty water and choose the most suitable one. What influences the choice:
- distance from the washing machine to a convenient drain point;
- material of existing pipes in the apartment / house;
- length, diameter of hoses included in the kit and purchased as needed.
It is best to first sketch out the simplest scheme for connecting the machine to all networks - it will be easier to imagine the big picture, make calculations of the amount of work and the amount of materials.
Drain device methods
There are only three of them, from the simplest and cheapest to the more complex and costly.
Draining water into plumbing
Included with any washing machine is a “hook” - a plastic element in the shape of an inverted “U”. A drain hose is fixed in it, after which the “letter” can be planted on the edge of the sanitary tank. Usually the place of the drain becomes a bath, as an option - a sink or toilet.
In fact, this method of draining is almost always inconvenient. If you still decide to use it, then you need to consider:
- the drain hose holder must be well fixed on the edge of the sanitary tank;
- during washing, you will not have to use the plumbing into which the drain jet is directed;
- it is advisable to wash off the sediment contained in the waste water of the washing machine after each wash: the smallest particles of pile and various grains of sand are often not visible, it is easy to forget about them until the accumulations become really noticeable and difficult to clean off.
If this method of getting rid of waste water is not suitable, the owners have no choice but to connect the drain of the washing machine to the sewer.
Inserting the drain hose into the siphon
A very popular way if the washing machine is close to the sink. There are several options for draining a washing machine into the sewer through a sink siphon.
One of the simplest is to assemble a system under the sink from a conventional siphon and a tube with a tap. Such a scheme is simple and reliable: the drain hose of the washing machine goes to the siphon, rises just above the inlet and enters there from top to bottom.
Due to this height difference, water from the sink drain will not be able to penetrate the drain hose when it is empty. One problem still remains. The smell of sewage can penetrate into the cavities of the washing machine and even soak into the laundry.
But this can be solved if we complicate the circuit a little. You can assemble a system with a water seal under the sink. At a glance, it looks like a lying letter "S". A small amount of water always accumulates in one bend, which does not let sewer odors out or into the washing machine drain hose.
Another option with the same effect is to buy a special anti-siphon valve for a washing machine with an outlet for attaching a drain hose.
Drain into the sewer
What to do if the previous methods of getting rid of dirty water are not suitable? The last option remains: arrange the drain of the washing machine into the sewer directly. This method is usually the most time consuming and expensive. But it is ideal if the washing machine is installed far enough from the sink.
The material of the existing sewer is important here. Tapping into old cast iron pipes can be quite troublesome. It is rarely possible to limit ourselves to just connecting a washing machine. Sometimes it is necessary to replace a section of the pipeline from cast-iron pipes. You have to act according to the situation.
In other cases, the work is usually easier. The owners of new cottages turn out to be in the most advantageous situations: in this case, a sewer outlet for a drain device can be provided in advance.
Connecting the drain of the washing machine to the sewer under the bathroom is one of the popular ideas. The advantage of such a drain system is that the hose can be hidden with a special screen, the design of the bathroom will only benefit from this. It is only important not to make the mistake that inexperienced craftsmen often make.
We are talking about the horizontal entry of the drain hose into the sewer. This is absolutely the wrong decision. The drain hose for the washing machine will inevitably be filled with the contents of the bath and sink drain, if any. We've already talked about bad smells. To avoid such an error, the drain hose must be inserted into the sewer from top to bottom.
Materials, tools, tricks
What the home master will need:
- Drain hose. Under good circumstances, you can use the one that comes with the washing machine. In other cases, purchased separately. We must not forget that the length of the hose is calculated with all the ascents, descents and bends.
- Means for sealing holes, joints, joints, gaskets for sealing, silicone sealant. In any plumbing work, special attention must be paid to preventing leaks.
- Sewerage fittings (tees, adapters), pipes, siphon, check valve for the washing machine to drain - depending on the connection method chosen. Diameter, length and type are calculated according to the situation.
- Pipe cutter, if you plan to tie into the sewer directly.
- Allen wrench or wrench set.
Regardless of the chosen method of connecting the drain hose to the sewer, it is necessary to carry out tests immediately after the completion of all work and arrange an idle wash. Then possible defects will immediately become visible. If everything is done correctly, then the drain system will last as long as the washing machine itself.
For the correct and trouble-free operation of the washing machine, it is necessary to properly connect the washing machine to the sewer. You should know, first of all, that when choosing a place to install a washing machine, you must take into account the length of the drain hose. It is also necessary to take into account the diameter of the sewer pipe when leading it to the washing machine. The diameter of this pipe is 40 mm miniaml.
For the correct and trouble-free operation of the washing machine, it is necessary to competently sewer. You should know, first of all, that when choosing a place for it is necessary to take into account the length of the drain hose and the connection diagram. It is also necessary to take into account the diameter of the sewer pipe when conducting it to. The diameter of this pipe is 40 mm miniaml.
Draining the washing machine: connection to the sewer
After completing the stage of work on bringing water to the machine, we will consider several basic options for connecting the drain of the washing machine. In any case, this issue should be taken seriously, because when the water is drained by the machine, the hose can pulsate strongly and the unreliability of the connection can cause water leaks, which can significantly spoil the mood and property not only for you, but also for the neighbors below.
Option 1. With the help of the clamp that usually comes with the washing machine, you can secure the drain hose to the side of the tub or sink. In this case, the possible height of the hose must be taken into account. It is indicated in the installation and operating instructions, usually manufacturers recommend that it does not exceed 100 cm. Otherwise, the pump power may not be enough to drain all the water. In addition, it makes sense to provide a rigid fastening of the latch, for example, to a water tap.
Option 2. The second way to connect the washing machine to the sewer is to connect the drain hose directly to the siphon. In this case, you get rid of the need for additional cleaning of the sink or bathroom at the drain. 
What is a siphon? This is a curved tube through which water from the sink enters the sewer. The bend is necessary to create a water blockage, which prevents the penetration of an unpleasant odor from the sewer pipes.
There are several types of siphon designs. The simplest is a conventional flexible corrugated pipe. A special clamp is used to fix the knee. The advantages of such a siphon include low cost and ease of installation, so it can often be found in new homes.
The second, most common type of siphon is a bottle siphon. It is equipped with a special flask in which a water jam is created. In addition, if you accidentally drop the ring into the sink, it will linger at the bottom of the flask.
When organizing the drain of the washing machine, you can use special siphons, which are equipped with additional outlets for drain hoses. They can be purchased at a hardware store. If the siphon is correctly installed, you will get a neat connection for draining the washing machine directly into the sewer. It is worth noting that this work often requires appropriate skills and its solution should be entrusted to a qualified plumber.
Option 3. You can lay an additional elbow from the existing sewer pipe, where the sink is drained. In this case, an additional set of sewer pipes with a coupling and a reducer is required, which acts as an adapter from the drain hose to the standard sewer pipe. All connections must be strong, for this it is advisable to coat them with plumbing silicone.
Connecting and installing a washing machine
Installation and connection of the SMA consists of several operations:
Remove shipping bolts, place the machine on a firm, level surface, level the machine.
Connecting the washing machine to the mains. If you recently had a renovation, or you live in a new building, most likely you already have a special outlet for SMA, then there is no problem. If not, then you will have to pull a separate line from your electrical panel without fail. This is the most time-consuming and expensive operation in the entire installation procedure. You will need a circuit breaker 16A, a wire with a cross section of at least 1.5 square meters. mm., a waterproof euro socket with a grounding terminal, and, accordingly, lay and install all this. 
Connecting the washing machine to water. Here you need a special tap - with a ½ x ¾ thread, or an angled or through passage, depending on the specific conditions. If a separate water outlet is provided in the apartment for connecting the washing machine, a corner tap is installed, if not, a passage tap is installed in the break of the water outlet for cold water and flexible supply to the mixer, or the toilet barrel. If the apartment does not have coarse water filters, it is advisable to install the filter in front of the water supply tap to the washing machine. Next, a supply hose is connected to the tap. If the supply hose is equipped with an aquastop device, it is recommended to position it vertically. If the length of the supply hose is not sufficient, it can be extended using special materials.
The next step is to connect the washing machine to the sewerage system. There are two main ways. Connecting the nearest plumbing fixture to the siphon (kitchen sink, washbasin, etc.) in this case, the siphon changes to a special one with a tap for the washing machine. This method has a significant drawback - if the siphon is clogged, dirty water from the washing machine will flow into the sink. However, this is a very common way. Another way to connect the washing machine to the sewer is to install a tee directly into the sewer system. This method is more preferable, does not have the disadvantage described above, but is slightly more expensive for the consumer.
And the last stage is a test run. The performance of the machine is checked, without linen, with a small amount of powder, at the same time it will be washed. It is enough to fill in water, stop the program, turn on the drain, check all connections for leaks.
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