Installation of plastic windows assumes that the installation opening will be exposed to a certain impact. This will lead to the appearance of numerous defects: cracks and holes from fallen plaster, exposure of the base of the walls, protruding excess foam. The best option in order to remedy this situation is considered to be the manufacture of plastic slopes. This material is ideal for such work. But the most important thing is that all work can be done independently, which significantly saves the family budget.

Decorating window slopes inside with plastic is a versatile solution that is now becoming more and more popular. This material is used for indoor and outdoor work. The fact is that such a product has excellent technical characteristics, which are as follows:

• Easy to install. If you compare the process of surface cladding with other options, then its advantages will immediately become noticeable. Decorating windows with your own hands does not require special skills, the main thing is to understand the basic principle and follow the rules.
• Durability. Indeed, this material has an excellent service life. If installed correctly, the plastic slopes will last for many years. The only thing that can happen is that such coverage will get bored.
• Easy to care for. Modern versions of the material do not require special conditions for themselves. They are sufficiently resistant to any detergents, do not absorb odors and dirt. Of course, this does not mean that strong chemicals can be used for washing. Everything has its own measure.
• No impact from moisture. Decorating the slopes with plastic avoids destruction. The fact is that metal-plastic windows often contribute to the appearance of condensation. This leads to the fact that gypsum or plastering options quickly become unusable.
• Availability. The material differs in price, which will be affordable for everyone who wants to install it.

Plastic panels for slopes have good technical characteristics

Of course, if you set a goal, you can find some disadvantages of such a product, but they are completely leveled against the background of the advantages.

Which material should you choose?

Before asking the dilemma about how to make slopes on plastic windows, you need to consider the types of material that are used for such work. It is customary to distinguish two main types used for installation:

Installation of slopes

Regardless of what material is chosen, a standard set of tools and consumables is used for work. You may need:

• Start profile.
• Wooden bar.
• Internal and external plastic corners, platbands.
• Insulation.
• Waterproofing tape and sealant, polyurethane foam.
• Spatula and dry putty.
• Capacity.
• Electric jigsaw.
• Screwdriver and level.
• Construction glue gun and "liquid nails", self-tapping screws.

Standard set of tools for installing slopes

The exact list of additional elements depends on how the plastic slopes will be installed on the windows.

Option number 1

This option is used when the assembly seam is a small gap. That is, the distance from the frame to the adjacent wall is minimal. This creates some difficulty, because it is necessary to take into account the location of the hinges and opening flaps. Therefore, work is carried out according to specific instructions:

1. Before installing plastic slopes, cut off excess foam. This is done with a construction or clerical knife. It is necessary to eliminate a common mistake - removing too much foam, because the cut must be flush with the surface of the frame. Otherwise, the existing balance will be upset, which will require additional efforts.

   Cutting off excess polyurethane foam

2. Areas of plaster that are prone to falling off are removed. There is no need to remove the entire layer, just the damaged parts. The surface is cleaned of dust and dirt residues.

   Removing damaged areas of plaster

3. Do-it-yourself installation of plastic slopes assumes that all areas will be treated with a special primer. It is better to choose penetrating formulations to which antiseptic components are added.
   Treatment of window slopes with a penetrating primer

   On a note! To prevent the formation of mold and mildew, special substances are used. This procedure should not be neglected, because such problems are the scourge of plastic windows.

4. Next, a wooden lath is fixed. It must be installed along the outer perimeter of the opening. Dowels and screws are used for fastening. It is better to make a structure that will be installed on the vertical and horizontal (upper) section, so that the posts do not come into contact with the upper bar.

   

5. Now a very important procedure is being carried out: it is required to cut the foam to form a groove into which the panel will be installed. It should be borne in mind that each fragment should be immersed - by 0.8 - 10 mm. Trimming is done directly next to the frame to form a stronger fit. After all, finishing the slopes with plastic with your own hands requires that all the gaps be minimal, or better - absent.

   Cutting foam is done as close as possible to the window frame

This completes the first preparatory stage. It is necessary to perform high-quality cutting of parts. This is a very important point, if you make it wrong, then you can't install PVC with your own hands.

Detailing can be done in two ways: take measurements and transfer data to the material, or make a stencil. BUT! Each of the methods must take into account that 10 mm will be needed to be inserted into the groove, and the thickness of the elements themselves must also be calculated, because they will form a common perimeter.


Cutting the plastic panel must be done very carefully

• Using a hacksaw for metal or an electric jigsaw, plastic is cut for slopes. Numerous burrs may remain along the edges; they are removed with sandpaper.
• Pre-installation in progress. It will help determine if there are defects. If the plastic is double-sided, then the wrong part is marked, it should be sanded a little. This will allow you to achieve better adhesion, because the installation of plastic slopes with your own hands is carried out using polyurethane foam, the adhesion of which to the smooth surface of the material will be much worse.
• Now the parts are installed one by one in the required place. They are pre-pushed into the groove made. Careful alignment is carried out, a level is used for this.
• The outer edge of the element is pushed back and a spot filling of the foam is performed. Extreme care must be taken as excess material will lead to warpage of the fragments.
• The details are fixed together with masking tape. It is glued at the joints, as well as along the perimeter of the walls.

When pouring polyurethane foam, it is important not to overdo it with its amount

It takes a day to completely dry. Then a series of additional finishing activities begins. They consist in the fact that the window slopes are treated with sealants, and the decorative corners are adjusted. They are seated on glue.

You also need to trim the outer bevels. It often happens that platbands are used, they need to be installed around the entire perimeter. If you exclude the use of such products, then the embedding is carried out using a putty, which will be hidden by the wallpaper.

Option number 2

Do-it-yourself plastic slopes can also be mounted using a technology that is significantly different from the previous one. It lies in the fact that fastening is carried out much faster using a starting profile. Any PVC materials are used for work.

The starting profile allows you to carry out work on the installation of slopes several times faster

On a note! Sometimes you can find an abbreviation in the form - PVC. This designation is considered equivalent to PVC, but it was used in Soviet GOSTs for plastic coatings.

The initial phase begins with preparation. It consists in cleaning the surface and removing all defects. The primer must be carefully applied to all areas. The general technology for further work is as follows:

Sometimes an essential question arises: how to trim the window slopes with plastic, if they have a large width. For this option, there are special wide panels that eliminate the need for grooving.

Installation is in progress:

• To achieve the best effect, do-it-yourself fragments on the windows begin to be mounted from the sidewalls.
• Each part is inserted into the starting profile. If protruding surpluses are observed, then they are cut off with a clerical knife.

• The material is fixed on polyurethane foam. It is poured in small quantities. It should be borne in mind that there will be more void next to the window frame than at the edge. Therefore, the foam is distributed in such a way that no swelling is observed.
• The panels are fixed with masking tape, which is glued to the walls. The finishing of the window slopes with plastic is considered complete, but finishing activities must be completed.
• When the coating is dry, you can start installing decorative corners. Particular attention is paid to external modules, they are joined and cut at angles of 45 degrees. Installation is carried out with glue.
• All joints are additionally treated with a sealant. Options are selected that will match the color of the set material.

The final stage of facing the slopes is the installation of decorative corners

On a note! The use of silicone should be avoided. This substance is not suitable for work on visible surfaces. The fact is that such a composition turns yellow very quickly and becomes covered with dirt.

VIDEO: installing the slopes of plastic windows with your own hands

Cladding outside with plastic

How to make plastic slopes outside the room? Indeed, this material can be applied to the outside of windows. But for work, only sandwich panels or sheet plastic with high strength indicators are used. The general technology does not differ from the internal one, but requires more thorough insulation and sealing.

In fact, slopes made from plastic material are a great solution. There is no doubt that the development of technology will allow to obtain new products that will replace other options.

As a rule, replacing any windows leads to the destruction of the adjacent section of the wall. The question arises: what to do to make the window structure look beautiful and reliably protect from noise, wind and other street troubles? The answer is simple: in this case, you cannot do without repair work. There are various options for sealing slopes, but in order to choose the desired option, you need to consider them in more detail.

About slopes

Wall sections adjacent to a window block are called slopes. They are internal and external. Strict requirements apply to indoor areas.

The following functions are assigned to the slopes:

• giving the window structure an aesthetic and attractive appearance. How can you imagine a quality window that is docked with a broken wall;

• improved sound and thermal insulation. Window structures that do not have high-quality slopes do not have sufficient tightness;

• protection of mounting elements and seams from environmental influences. A high-quality slope not only protects the fasteners from corrosion, but also reduces the likelihood of fogging and freezing of windows.

Thus, the repair of slopes is a list of works aimed not only at restoring damaged sections of the wall, but also at creating additional insulation.

Basically, one of the following repair options is selected:

For any repair of slopes, first of all, high-quality surface preparation is required.

Preparation of a window opening

The restoration of slopes begins after their surface is prepared. Preparation is carried out in the following sequence:

In order not to destroy the restored slopes, the window sill is installed before the start of the repair.

To protect against dirt and knocked down elements, the window and sill are protected with paper or polyethylene. And also it will not hurt to protect the window handle and the battery under the windowsill.

The protective film on the window is removed only after the completion of all work.

1. Slope surfaces are thoroughly cleaned. Large dangling fragments are attached to the mortar.

Plastering of slopes

This option for repairing slopes is low cost. For embedding, it is enough to have: a finishing mixture, a set of simple tools and paint diluted with water.

The option also has disadvantages:

• it takes a lot of effort and time to get a very flat surface. An experienced installer performs such work much faster;

• cracks often appear after plastering. This may be due to a single coat of the surface, where a thick layer slides down. In addition, cracks appear due to changes in moisture or poor quality of the mixture;

• low thermal insulation of the window structure;

• lack of adhesion to the plastic from which the window is made.

It is believed that plaster looks more aesthetically pleasing for internal slopes than plastic and drywall.

Plastering begins with the correct selection and preparation of the mixture. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the place of the slope.

• External slopes - are in special conditions: precipitation, wind, temperature fluctuations. It is recommended to use cement and heat-insulating mixtures with a water-repellent effect. This can be Knauf products or a conventional mixture of cement and sand.

• Internal slopes - should have an aesthetic appearance. For a smooth surface, gypsum mixes are suitable. Starting and finishing putties of "Ceresit" company are very common.

In any case, the drying time of the solution is taken into account, since further decoration work continues after it dries.

1. Do not dilute large amounts of the solution. This is due to the economy - the untreated solution dries quickly.

2. The solution is applied in several layers. The next layer is laid after the previous one has dried.

The repair sequence is as follows:

Sheathing slopes with plastic

As noted earlier, plastic is in demand due to its easy installation and low cost. In addition, there are other advantages:

• the material matches well with the window profile. The slope and profile have the same expansion, so there is no tension between them;
• performance remains up to 20 years;
• temperature drops are maintained;
• there is a protective layer that does not burn or melt;
• easy care. Dust and dirt are removed with a damp cloth.

The following sequence is selected for work:

Sandwich paneling

When choosing this option, it must be borne in mind that the minimum panel thickness is 20 mm.

Without auxiliary profiles, the slope is sewn up within a few hours. The plating order is as follows:

1. The panels are trimmed to fit the slope.

1. "Liquid nails" are applied to the panel, and it is firmly pressed against the surface of the slope.

1. The gaps between the frame and the panels are sealed.

1. From the outside, corners are installed on the glue.

Lining and sandwich panels cannot be repaired. As a rule, they change when damaged. In this case, the choice of shade is of great importance, since it differs in different batches of material.

Plasterboard installation

A drywall sheet is a building material in which gypsum is placed between layers of cardboard. The material is indispensable for hiding various wall defects, therefore it is recommended for slopes.

Its advantages include:

• wide range of uses. Suitable for all types of windows;
• can be used for finishing slopes of any size;
• low price;
• quick installation;
• environmental Safety;
• painted in different colors.

There are also disadvantages:

• low strength. Any mechanical impact leaves traces;
• destruction at high humidity;
• fast wear, requiring additional painting;
• inconvenient installation. Protective equipment must be used when cutting, as gypsum dust is harmful to health.

Important!

1. Plasterboard is the base that needs finishing.

2. It is better to choose a moisture-resistant version of the material that is not afraid of condensation on the windows.

There are several ways to cover slopes with drywall, but the following installation on a putty is considered the simplest.

1. The slope is measured from the wall to the frame. If the wall is uneven, then it is necessary to measure in several places.
2. Measurements are transferred to drywall. For convenience, a mold is made.
3. A future slope is cut from the sheet. The material is cut with a knife or sawn.
4. Putty is applied along the edges and in the center of the workpiece.
5. The workpiece is pressed tightly against the slope, and a spacer is installed. It takes a day for a good grip.
6. Very often, aluminum corners are installed to align the corners.
7. The surface of the slope is putty and, after drying, is processed with sandpaper.
8. The cladding is completed with two-layer painting. In this case, the window profile and window sill are protected with masking tape.

In general, everyone independently chooses a method for repairing slopes. If the technology of work is not violated, then they will be beautiful and reliable.

An important stage in the installation of plastic windows is the design of window openings. Slopes for plastic windows are made of the same material as the windows, or they are finished in a different way. However, nothing is in harmony with the appearance of white PVC windows as neatly installed plastic slopes, hiding all defects in window openings, foam and fasteners. Competently designed slopes give the windows an aesthetic, complete look.

Why install plastic slopes?

Modern plastic windows can be considered ideally installed only if they have carefully designed slopes in compliance with the rules of sealing. Carefully made slopes are aesthetic, they bear part of the thermal insulation load, preventing the installation seams from fogging up. With an illiterate finish during the ventilation of windows, due to temperature changes, the structure of building materials is destroyed and the attractiveness of window openings is lost. It is important to install external and internal plastic slopes in stages, in accordance with all the rules, in compliance with the technology.

For those who are not very versed in the terminology, we recall that the slopes are the side surfaces of the walls along the perimeter of the window opening, adjacent directly to the window frame. They are internal, that is, installed on the windows inside the room, and external, overlooking the courtyard of the house. The lower horizontal is usually formed by a window sill. But the side parts of the walls and the upper plane near the window require careful finishing - plastic slopes.

More recently, the slopes were leveled and decorated with wood or plaster for whitewashing. Modern PVC windows are in harmony with the same finish. Since a lot of attention is paid to the quality of finishing today, they prefer to put finishing made of thin plastic on internal slopes.

Old plaster slopes cannot fully provide sound insulation and sealing, and from the cracks near the frame and under the windowsill it often came through, especially in winter. Under the destructive influence of the external environment, the plaster and putty crumbled and fell into disrepair, so everything had to be redone. With the introduction of new technologies for the quick installation of sealed PVC windows, it has become easier to do plastic slopes on windows with your own hands than to arrange window openings in the old way.

One of the additional complications of low-quality windows is condensation, which appears on the windows due to temperature differences. When the joint between the wall and the window frame is made illiterately, the glass unit is too cold, and the windows "cry", forming dampness on the windowsill. Competent finishing of slopes minimizes this factor.

Before the start of the production of plastic windows, it was possible to cope with the problem of condensation due to insufficient sealing with the help of drywall slopes and polyurethane foam. They were more effective than the old-fashioned white plaster. This option lends itself better to the insulation of the window opening. However, their main drawback is low moisture resistance, and the installation of plastic slopes solves this problem today.

Today, plastic slopes on PVC windows with double glazing are a universal solution to many problems. For their insulation, mineral wool is usually used to provide the window with effective hydro, heat, and sound insulation.

The main advantages of plastic slopes

If we compare plastic, plastering or plasterboard slopes, then plastic has a lot of advantages:

• long-term operation;
• perfectly flat texture is in harmony with PVC windows;
• aesthetic appearance;
• the ability to effectively close all joint defects;
• there is a possibility of using flexible platbands;
• no need for additional finishing and painting of the window opening;
• moderate cost of finishing works;
• effective thermal insulation of the opening;
• the ability to complete the finishing of the window on the same day as the installation of PVC windows or postpone the finishing to fulfill certain construction and design tasks;
• clean work with quick installation;
• if you have a tool, all the work can be done independently and quickly (in 2-3 hours);
• simple subsequent operation - the surface is easy to clean and clean;
• there is a choice of color palette for any stylistic solution;
• does not need additional alignment of the window opening after dismantling the old frame;
• relatively low thermal conductivity;
• high moisture resistance and the ability to easily remove liquid;
• protection from freezing.

Thermal insulation of plastic slopes

When replacing old wooden windows, dismantling can significantly destroy the window opening, therefore, all the resulting voids must be filled in order to eliminate the slightest gaps. Sometimes the cracks are not visible, but in the area of \u200b\u200bthe window you feel cold and mold starts, which indicates a depressurization of the seams after installation or poorly performed installation of the window.

If you carry out the finishing and installation of plastic slopes according to all the rules, then they should be properly insulated so as not to transfer a portion of low temperature into the room. Effective thermal insulation is achieved in a fairly simple way - insulation is mounted under the plastic layer up to the area where the frame adjoins the window opening.

Several schemes have been developed for insulating the plastic slopes themselves and the zone of adjoining the frame to the opening. Today, different types of heaters are used, and this range is enough to provide reliable window protection from negative external factors. The easiest way is to solve the problem of efficient window insulation in 2 ways:

• fill the space with mineral wool or foam on the inside of the window;
• at the junction of the window opening and the PVC frame, fill the cracks with polyurethane foam and close them with finishing materials from the street side.

For insulation, materials are offered today:

• mineral wool;
• foam sheets;
• sandwich panels;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• isover or fiberglass.

Attention: The choice of insulation should be dictated by the width of the gap and the surface features of the window opening and the joint with the PVC frame.

A small installation gap within 40-50 mm on a smooth surface is easier to insulate with sheet polystyrene, isover or expanded polystyrene up to 2-3 cm.With a small gap and some irregularities, use mineral wool. Outside the window, the gaps are filled with ordinary foam, it is also used for gross defects in the window opening after dismantling the old frames.

Multilayer walls, which are equipped with an insulation approaching the window frame, provide sufficient protection against external factors. In this case, it is not necessary to insulate the plastic slopes themselves; it is enough to eliminate all gaps with foam from the outside. If the building has cold single-layer walls without thermal insulation, then it is recommended to make effective insulation of the slopes with thermal inserts laid along the slopes.

A layer of insulation is fixed over the entire surface of the window opening, without crawling out of the seams. When installing plastic slopes, the thermal insulation layer will be closed. Sometimes a layer of drywall is additionally mounted - to level the knocked down plaster. Sheets of extruded polystyrene foam do not require additional processing when installing plastic slopes with your own hands.

When insulating slopes with foam, the joint with the frame at the window opening is filled with cement mortar. Only after all this has dried well, a layer of foam up to 5 mm can be glued onto a flat surface. Outside, the window is protected with extruded polystyrene foam or another method. Any kind of insulation should fit snugly to the surface. With external thermal insulation of window slopes, it is important to ensure the removal of moisture from the assembly seam.

Attention: Thermal insulation of slopes will not be effective if there is no thermal insulation around the perimeter of the window, and the insulation is installed fragmentarily, only in problem areas with surface defects.

To do this, you will need a plastic sheet of 8 mm, about 6 m, as well as a starting U-shaped and F-shaped strip of plastic or "F-ka". It is convenient to mount them on a 10-15 mm wooden rail. From the tools you need a punch or drill, scissors for metal, a building level, a square and a pencil for marking. Don't forget self-tapping screws, white sealants, or silicone.

Self-assembly of plastic slopes

There are several ways to install the outer slopes of plastic windows and prepare the slopes themselves.

There are 3 widespread methods for making plastic slopes:

• from sandwich panels;
• made of drywall covered with strong plastic;
• made of foamed plastic.

Sandwich panels with a porous structure do not form condensation, are not afraid of moisture, retain heat and are quite durable. They are available in different types, including glossy and matte, as well as colored and laminated wood. There are different ways of fixing external and internal slopes adjacent to PVC frames, and options for preparing a window opening with cutting parts for plastic slopes.

1. Use an electric saw or metal scissors to cut sandwich panels or thin plastic panels. The starting profile is mounted with dowels in the window opening during window installation. slopes are attached to this base. For mounting, galvanized brackets and double-sided mounting tape are used. The brackets are fastened with self-tapping screws, and on their basis the slopes are fixed close to the windowsill. It is better to coat the corners with silicone sealant.

2. Plasterboard slopes with PVC sheets cladding are mounted directly to the drywall with “liquid nails”. It is important to ensure that there are no defects or traces of deformation on the plastic. Their special glossy surface is susceptible to dirt, which is sometimes difficult to remove.

3. Alternatively, PVC foam with a smooth face is used. When making a cut, it can even be bent to the desired shape using frequent radial cuts, they must be fixed with mounting adhesive. Otherwise, it has general rules for installation with sandwich panels.

Installation of external slopes

Experts recommend to make external slopes on PVC windows from a sandwich panel, the reliability of which has been tested. The material easily withstands the external environment and is a reliable barrier against cold, precipitation and temperature extremes.

Before starting the installation of external slopes, it is important to make accurate measurements in order to exclude gaps and crevices. The height, width and length of the window openings are measured in order to transfer to the plastic sheet and hand over the cutting of the panel. After cutting 3 blanks with a circular saw or metal scissors, you can proceed to installation.

First, the upper horizontal part (slope) is fixed, while its base is recessed as deep as possible, and the space in this niche is filled with polyurethane foam. It should not be let in a lot, so as not to warp the plastic, which bends easily when the foam is bursting during hardening. The slope must be pressed to the top of the opening, fixing it with construction tape at the anchor points.

When the horizontal slope is checked, you can mount the side parts in the same way, checking the parallelism and compliance with the vertical. Extend the spacers. In the same way, plastic slopes are mounted in a wooden house, but it is better to fix them with self-tapping screws.

The structure must stand for a day or two, so that the polyurethane foam finally hardens. But if the plastic is stained, it is better to immediately cut off the smudges with a knife and wipe the slope with a rag dipped in a solution of vinegar. After the foam has hardened, the mounting tape and spacers are removed. Next, the decorative corner is fixed with a sealant or transparent silicone.

Installation of internal slopes

Before installing plastic slopes inside the room, it is advisable to complete the wall decoration. The plastic is mounted on a solid solid surface. If a plastered window opening crumbles in an old house when replacing a wooden window with PVC, then it is better to knock it down to the base of the wall, and then level it and fill it with insulation. This is not necessary in new buildings.

Wooden slats are fixed along the perimeter of the installed window along the inner joint with self-tapping screws. They are convenient to use for leveling the walls adjacent to the opening. Plastic slopes will be attached to them. The most reliable fastening is on the starting plastic profile. An F-shaped profile is also mounted on wooden slats, fixed with stapler brackets.

Internal plastic slopes are installed on the finished base, starting from the upper horizontal, under which it is recommended to lay mineral wool. Installation is in many ways similar to the described instructions for external slopes, and the gaps at the joints are also hidden with silicone or white sealant.

Attention: All work on the installation of plastic slopes is carried out on clean, dry surfaces with low or moderate room humidity!

The installation of plastic slopes with your own hands is not limited to the description of the above installation technologies, options are possible, for example, plastic slopes - video:

The installation of plastic windows is not always accompanied by finishing the slopes by representatives of the window company. However, this is understandable - if you do it wisely, the process can take several days. So it will be much better if you do this work yourself. Not sure how to make the right slopes on the windows? It doesn't matter, let's learn together.

How to make a choice of material for window slopes - looking for options

The functions of window slopes are reduced to protecting the window opening from moisture, as well as to providing insulation and noise reduction. Without slopes, even the best windows will not be able to perform their functions efficiently; their absence can lead to serious problems in the future. Therefore, when choosing windows, think in advance how to make the slopes correctly, and what material to choose for this.

The general requirements are as follows:

• Durability and reliability;
• Resistant to weather conditions specific to your region;
• Tightness and environmental friendliness;
• Heat insulation and sound insulation of premises;
• Convenience of cleaning.

Wood trim is a very effective way that goes well with wood windows. However, such products are expensive and require very careful maintenance. The question of how to correctly make slopes on wooden windows should only be dealt with by specialists, but it is worth it - this is an elite slope coating.

Plastic slopes have become widespread along with plastic windows. In many ways, this is the best option: you get a neat, clean surface that is quick to install, easy to clean and retains heat very well. Even at frosty temperatures outside the window, with proper installation of the slopes, condensation on the elements themselves and on the adjacent section of the wall is excluded. However, the effect of moisture on the plastic slopes themselves does not threaten them. Over time, plastic parts can turn yellow - this is perhaps the only drawback of the material.

Slope plastering - how is it done?

It is worth using this method of finishing a window opening only during a major overhaul, when the wall covering is changing. In the process of cosmetic repairs, it is better to change the plaster to something less easily soiled - you will definitely ruin the wallpaper. It should be noted that this method is the most time consuming.

Before making slopes on the windows, it is necessary to clean the surface of the old coating and install beacons - wooden or metal. There are also ready-made plaster beacons that are perfect for beginners. So, the first mark is placed in close proximity to the window block, denoting a layer of plaster of at least 5 cm. Then beacons are placed at the corners of the opening box and leveled using a level.

For internal window slopes, dry cement-gypsum plaster is best suited. Such a solution dries faster, which is important to save time, moreover, it can be applied in a thicker layer than the same cement-sand composition. It is necessary to knead the solution with a construction mixer, or use a perforator or drill with a special nozzle at low speeds.

For external slopes, it is necessary to use a cement mixture or a special facade putty - both materials withstand the effects of moisture and other atmospheric phenomena with dignity. Before plastering, it will not hurt to carry out thermal insulation, especially if the windows are plastic - this will avoid the fogging of the windows in cold seasons.

The plaster is applied in several passes - each layer requires drying. The first step is spraying - the plaster is diluted with plenty of water and an ordinary broom soaked in a solution is sprayed on the area for finishing. This allows a good adhesion between the base and the plaster layer. The second layer should rid the surface of small irregularities, no more - it is categorically impossible to apply a thick layer of plaster.

The next layer is applied after drying and priming of the first one. The final layer is applied with a finishing putty, which is sanded after drying. The gaps remaining in the joints between the window block and the putty should be covered with a special sealant that can be painted. For high-quality sealing, the joint is cut at an angle of 45 ° by 2-3 mm, the resulting recess is primed and after a few hours filled with a sealing compound.

The finished surface should be primed to prevent small cracks and to prepare for painting. Usually, enamel or acrylic paint is used for painting, which are applied in two layers. In total, it will take about a week to complete this complex of works from the beginning to the drying of the last layer of paint.

How to make plasterboard window slopes - instructions for beginners

Drywall has one significant advantage over the same plastic - it can be repaired with minor damage, return a clean, aesthetic appearance. Special skills are not required to create a drywall slope. First, you need to create a frame from a galvanized profile - some window companies supply these in a set with their products. In any case, a special groove must be provided in the window block, and the profile can be purchased separately.

The installation of the slopes should be started no earlier than a day after the installation of the windows - during this time, the foam completely polymerizes, and its excess can be cut off and the spacers removed. The guide profile is screwed along the line of joining the drywall with the window block with self-tapping screws.

Insulation is laid between the profiles, and then drywall is mounted to the frame. When it is installed, it is sanded and the gaps and irregularities are smoothed out with a putty, and only after that they start processing with soil. The corners of drywall should be protected with a galvanized metal profile, which will protect them from delamination. As in the case of plastering, the joints of the window frame and the finished slope are sealed with acrylic putty. It will harden no less than 12 hours later, and only after that the slopes can be painted.

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Installation of slopes of plastic windows

Among the numerous firms for the installation of plastic windows and doors, it is very difficult to find those that would immediately deal with the slopes. During the time spent on finishing the slopes for one opening, company employees can install 4-5 windows and get much more money. And some types of slopes cannot be made within one day, the technology requires time for the material to solidify and dry, this further discourages them from engaging in such services. In addition, the very need to install slopes changes the algorithm of action of the "installers" of plastic windows. They must remove old windows very carefully, so as not to create large destruction of the existing finish, carefully think over the specific place of installation of the frame, taking into account the thickness and material of the walls. No slopes - no problem, here is the method of installing plastic windows by company employees.

Another nuisance for window installers - if you make the slopes yourself, then you need to control the distance between the frame and the window opening. In this way, the further installation of decorative elements of the window opening can be facilitated. And an ordinary installation requires from them only drilling four holes for dowels in the vertical walls of the opening, fixing the frame under the level and foaming the cracks. After that, the craftsmen receive their money, and the owner is forced to hire another team of builders to finish the windows or do it on their own.

Important. If the windows are installed by the employees of the company, then be sure to demand that they thoroughly clean the surfaces of the window opening from dust and dirt, and moisten them abundantly with water before foaming.

In most cases, such work is not done, the strength of fixing the structure is significantly reduced. Later, under the influence of wind loads or during opening / closing, the cocoon of the frame loosened a little, cracks appear near the slopes and frames you made. It is useless to eliminate them; to eliminate the marriage, you will have to strengthen the frame fasteners. In terms of labor intensity, these works are no different from the installation of plastic windows. In essence, you will have to redo the work for which the money has already been paid.

Only inexperienced developers might think that there is no difference between interior and exterior slopes. It exists, and it is quite substantial. Understanding the features of the arrangement of external slopes will make it possible to avoid mistakes, improve their appearance and increase the operating time.

As you can see, the installation of external slopes is not such a simple matter, work very carefully and carefully.

Prices for platbands and accessories for windows and doors

Platbands and extensions for windows and doors

Preparatory work

So, the plastic window is installed, the foam is frozen. The factory-made plastic film on the frames and sashes is not removed. If it is not there, then you will have to take measures to protect surfaces from contamination and mechanical damage.

We will consider several options for making external slopes for plastic windows, starting with the most practical and reliable ones - from cement-sand mortar.

Plastering slopes on brick houses

Before starting work, decide what kind of ebb will be: galvanized iron or standard plastic.

The algorithm of its installation depends on the material of manufacture. The frame of plastic windows has a special groove in the lower part, an ebb must be inserted into it. "Make money" on it and see at what angle it lies, at what distance from the walls. Make marks, they will come in handy when plastering the lower slope.

Remove the same dimensions on the sides and on top of the opening, find out the required thickness of the plaster. The larger it is, the more difficult it will be to make the slope. After taking measurements, analyzing the condition and developing a production scheme, you can start plastering the slopes.

Prepare a cement-sand mixture based on a part of cement, approximately 2.5-3 parts of sand, but no more. The solution must be greasy, otherwise it will begin to crumble with repeated freezing / thawing. You will have to redo everything or use various methods of protecting surfaces. In addition, an increased amount of cement increases the coefficient of adhesion of the mortar to the walls, which is very important for slopes.

Step 1. Protect the surface of glass units from contamination. Use plastic wrap and tape for this. Close all places where the mass might fall. Stick the adhesive tape firmly so that the film does not fall off during operation.

Step 2. Cut off any foam that has come out of the frame. If there are large gaps after foaming, close them up. You can use mortar or various sealants. Cut off the foam with a sharp knife in continuous movements, do not allow breaks. The better the insulation, the less heat loss. But that's not all. If cold bridges are formed along the perimeter of the frame, then condensation appears on the slopes, which causes the growth of fungi and mold. Microorganisms not only negatively affect building structures and materials, but can also cause various allergic reactions.

Step 3... Prepare your tools. You will need a grout, trowel, plumb line or level, dowels, spray gun or brush to wet surfaces with water.

Working tools

Craftsmen often mention a bevel for slopes. We need to dwell on this topic in more detail. What is malka and what is it used for?

Malka is a tool with which you can level the plaster at various angles. We have already said that the slopes need to be done at obtuse angles, due to this, the clearance of the window opening increases. You can buy a malka ready-made in a store, make it yourself, or replace it with an elementary device.

The standard bead consists of two metal strips joined by a hinge. After selecting the desired angle, the strips in the hinge are clamped with a screw. It can also be done from wooden planks, but it takes a long time, for one-time work it makes no sense to waste so much time for several windows.

If there is an irresistible desire to align the angles of the slopes with the help of a bevel, then you can make it from one board. One end is cut at the desired angle, it will abut against the window frame. The second part of the stick slides along a guide board fixed to the wall. But there is another way to maintain the desired slope angle, which is used by all professionals. We will explain below how they work. We assure you that this method allows you to achieve excellent quality and at the same time not waste time at all making a bean or a special device.

It is advisable to sprinkle the surface with cement-sand milk beforehand. This is the same solution, only very liquid. The milk will do two things: it will moisturize very dry bricks and will increase the adhesion of the plaster to the surface.

Step 5. Install the guide rail on the wall. To do this, you need to fix a thin board with absolutely flat sides on the wall above the window opening. The side edge of the board should be horizontal, fix it with dowels, then the holes in the wall will be sealed without problems. Fasten it securely, it should not stagger and, moreover, fall off. One end of the rule will slide across the board.

Step 6. If you need to apply thick plaster, then this should be done in several stages. Sketch the first layer about 2–3 cm thick, let it dry a little. Then throw on the second layer and so on until there is about a centimeter left before the final leveling of the slope. Cover the mortar with the back of the trowel, only putting it on will ensure that all gaps on the surface are completely filled.

Important. Beginners often fail to throw in, it's not scary, learn, after a while experience will appear. But never try to spread the solution on the surface, nothing will come of this venture. You can only slightly grease the grooves obtained after throwing on. But this is not how professionals work. They always throw on, and for different purposes they take a different amount of solution.

Step 7. You can level the mass with a small or ordinary bar. We have already talked about malka, now we will tell you how professionals work. They prepare an ordinary flat rail, the length should exceed the width of the slope by about 10 cm. As for the width, there is a special requirement: it should not exceed the width of the gap from the sash to the end of the window frame. Further, the leveling of the solution on the upper slope is done as follows:

• one end of the rail butt rests against the frame, the side edge is tightly pressed against the sash. The other end of the rail will slide on the board;
• slowly zigzag movements move the rail along the board and sash, the mass protruding beyond the thickness of the slope is leveled;
• in a place where there is a gap between the sashes, remove the rail from one sash and install it on the next. Do not worry that after rearranging it, a small tubercle will remain, it is leveled without problems with a grater.

Step 8. After the excess mass is pulled together by the rail, grooves of various parameters will inevitably remain on the surface. Large ones must be repaired with a trowel. Take a little mass on a plywood stand, take small portions with the back of the trowel and fill in the holes. The mass must be glued with effort. Keep the plywood under the patch, any excess weight will fall onto it.

Step 9. Wait 40-50 minutes for the solution to harden. Once it's a little stronger, start working with the float. Do not use too much force, work in a circular motion, constantly check the position of the working surface of the trowel (grout). If the solution has hardened strongly, moisten it with water. Work carefully in the corners of the slopes. You can correct the corners with a trowel or a spatula, there is no difference. Use the tools that are more familiar and easier to work with.

Prices for mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

Mixes for leveling walls and ceilings

Now you can go to vertical slopes. Reinstall the ebb before finishing the side ones. Its installation technology depends on the selected type. But for all cases, one condition must be observed - the protruding part of the ebb must fit tightly into a special seat on the frame of the plastic window. Take all measures to prevent water from glass units from entering the space between the frame and the ebb. For a guarantee, you can coat the seat with silicone.

Step 1. Install the ebb in place, on the side surfaces of the window opening, mark its position on the upper surface. Remember that the ebb must be installed at an angle for a reliable water drain.

Step 2. Remove it, with a cement-sand mass, level the lower slope to the level of the marked lines. While working, use the same tools with which you worked on the upper slope. It is not necessary to achieve special cleanliness of the surface, it will close anyway.

Step 3. After the mass hardens, install the ebb over the window. Cover it with a cloth or plastic film to prevent possible dirt or damage.

Now you can start finishing the side surfaces of the slopes. The workflow algorithm is almost the same. First, the boards are installed on the sides, the position is leveled with a level or plumb line. Next, the solution is thrown, the alignment is always done from the bottom up, so less mass falls on the ebb. It lingers on the surface of the rule and is thrown into a container.

Finishing works

On the second day, you can remove the guide boards. Remove the retaining nails or dowels, do not open the rail towards you, but carefully pull it away from the slopes, press it firmly against the wall. This will help prevent chipping of the fresh plaster.

There will certainly be small gaps under the board, cover them with a trowel, level the surfaces with grout. After the slopes are completely dry, the surfaces can be painted with facade water-based paint (white or colored) or decorative plaster can be made with the same material as on the facade walls.

Plastic slopes

The variant is not common, but it has the right to life. The use of plastic slopes makes it possible to complete the production of slopes in one day. We do not recommend doing them for one reason - the service life of plastic slopes is about 15 years, do you really want to engage in construction work again after this time? Slopes are made of plastic panels for external work, the color and texture should be in harmony with the appearance of the facade walls of the building.

A supporting frame must be made for plastic slopes. It can be made from rolled metal or wooden slats. There is no fundamental difference, lumber is reliably protected from the effects of atmospheric precipitation, the service life is the same as that of metal. We will consider making the simplest version of the frame - from wooden slats.

Step 1. Select the slats of the required length and thickness. They should fit into the space between the wall and the window frame. If necessary, correct the wall surface or reduce the thickness of the battens in some places. The slats must be fixed along the perimeter of the slope: at the bottom and at the top and on both sides of the opening. If the plastic windows are large, then add several additional slats on all planes. Pre-fix them with liquid nails, fill the cracks with polyurethane foam. After the foam hardens, the slats can be fixed to the wall with several dowels to increase stability. But it is not necessary to do this, the frame will hold very firmly so. The foam that comes out after hardening will be cut off.

Step 2. Install guide boards on the walls at the top and on both sides of the opening. How this is done is described above.

Step 3. Replace the ebb. Installation technology depends on the type of product.

Step 4. Check the position of the timber frame. All battens should lie in the same plane, side, bottom and top slopes at an angle. Observe the verticality of the side slopes.

Step 5... Take the exact measurements, prepare plastic panels and decorative corners.

Practical advice. It is better to start installing the panels from the fixing side. At this point, the panels have a beautiful rounding, nothing will have to be repaired. Cut a thin plastic strip to which the staples or studs are fixed, and press this edge against the frame.

Step 6. Measure and cut each panel separately. You can cut it with a mounting knife, electric jigsaw or grinder. It is best to do this operation on a machine for cutting ceramic tiles - the angle is precisely regulated, the cut is obtained with a perfectly even "factory" cut.

Step 7. Fix the plastic slopes with a stapler, small nails or self-tapping screws in the place provided by the manufacturer. Press the panels firmly, do not leave gaps. If the window is large, then the slope is additionally glued to the wooden transverse battens with liquid nails.

Step 8. Close the corners with decorative corners, fix them with liquid nails. Cut the corners at the joints at an angle of 45 °.

This option for the manufacture of slopes is best used if the whole house is finished with plastic panels. Even during wall decoration work, provide for the possibility of making a frame for slopes.

Council of professionals. It is very difficult for novice craftsmen to cut the corners exactly at an angle of 45 °, there is always a gap at the junction points. Of course, it can be covered with a sealant or silicone, but the correction is noticeable, the appearance deteriorates. We recommend trimming only one corner at a 45 ° angle and the other at a 90 ° angle. From the corner at 45 °, the lower area of \u200b\u200bthe square is cut off, and the thin upper one overlaps the cut at 90 °. This technique completely eliminates the likelihood of gaps formation, there are no joints, the elements overlap. At whatever angle you cut, the cut is always positioned on the bottom whole area.

Prices for plastic slopes

Plastic slopes

How to mount slopes on special profiles

To make a slope, you will need plastic profiles and sandwich panels.

The dimensions of the panels are selected taking into account the parameters of the window. During the installation process, pieces are cut from the whole panel according to the dimensions of the vertical and horizontal slopes. You can cut with a grinder with a disc for metal, an electric jigsaw, an assembly knife or other tools. If burrs have formed during cutting, then they are removed with the edge of a knife or sanding paper.

Step 1. The plastic U-shaped profile is screwed along the perimeter of the window frame. Check the horizontal and vertical position carefully. The ends of plastic slopes are installed in this profile. Use small screws to fix it.

Important. It should be remembered that violations of the integrity of the metal profile of the window frame with self-tapping screws negatively affects its performance.

First, fix the two extreme self-tapping screws, after checking the position of the element, screw in the fasteners every 15–20 cm.

Step 2. Check the dimensions are correct. All is well - insert the slope into the profile. Use a piece of plastic to make work easier. Insert it into the gap between the panel and the profile and gradually move it along the panel, press on the end. The element will fit into the seat along its entire length without much effort.

Step 3. Stick a strip of masking tape on the other (free) end of the slope and leave loose pieces. With their help, it will then be fixed to the wall before foaming. The tape will prevent the slopes from bending under the influence of the expanding foam.

Step 4. Carefully seal the gap between the slope and the wall, set the elements in a horizontal position and fix its position with free pieces of tape. Remember to wet the surfaces. Water not only improves adhesion but also accelerates foam hardening.

Prices for polyurethane sealant

Polyurethane sealant

Step 5. Cut off excess foam pieces. Install decorative corners or platbands depending on the material and technology for finishing the external walls.

That's all, according to the same algorithm, you can trim all the remaining plastic windows, regardless of their size and method of opening / closing.

Wooden slopes

Such slopes are installed on houses made of rounded logs without additional external cladding or on houses made of ordinary timber, the external walls of which are finished with natural clapboard.

For the street, you can use two options for slopes: from natural lining or furniture board. The furniture board is made of glued boards - the possibility of deformations under the influence of atmospheric precipitation is excluded. Wide boards will certainly warp and will not work. If they are firmly fixed on the frame, then there will be no warping, but very deep cracks form. In this regard, it is not recommended to use them as a material for the manufacture of slopes. For example, we will consider an option from a furniture board with a thickness of about 1 cm.

Step 1. Take measurements, cut the slope blanks along them. Do everything with maximum precision, furniture panels are expensive. Use only serviceable and adjusted tools, observe safety precautions. Woodworking machines and tools belong to the category of the most dangerous mechanisms, the injuries from them are very serious. Sketching slopes can be quite complex, all sides at different angles, etc. If you have little experience in sizing - make a template out of cardboard. Resize it several times until it looks good. Using a template, cut out the side and top slopes for each PVC window.

Step 2. Install low tide, do not forget to make a slope To increase the strength under the drain, it is recommended to make a frame. For manufacturing, it is better to use slats 20 × 50 mm, be sure to soak them with an antiseptic. If not, dry the slats well in a warm room or under a fan and cover with ordinary vegetable oil several times, it perfectly protects against putrefactive processes.

Step 3... Try on the slope, install it end-to-end in the gap between the plastic window frame and the wall. Level up its position.

Step 4. Secure the wooden slope in place. To do this, you need small screws or studs and trimming strips about ten centimeters long. Beam the slats to the slope and the frame, always at the top and bottom, the distance between the fixing points is no more than 20 cm. Strong fastening is a prerequisite for the next operation.

Step 5. Use a spray bottle to moisten well the gap between the slope and the wall. Cover it with polyurethane foam. If the width of the slope is large, then you will have to foam in two steps. In order to prevent the foam from bending the wooden slope, we made it securely fixed with slats.

Step 6. After hardening, cut off the remaining foam, check the firmness of fixing the slopes. Practice shows that there is no need to do any additional fastenings.

Step 7. Prepare platbands. Wooden slopes must be trimmed with platbands. Nail them to the slopes with studs or self-tapping screws, the attachment points can be putty.

When choosing plastic materials for slopes, be sure to pay attention to resistance to ultraviolet rays. Never work with plastic for indoor use, it is absolutely unsuitable for street slopes.

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