How best to make sewerage in a private house. Do-it-yourself autonomous sewage system in a private house and its device. Do-it-yourself internal sewerage in a private house: regulatory requirements and practical recommendations

It is difficult to call a private house comfortable if it is not equipped with a well-thought-out, well-functioning drainage system. It is as much a part of civilized existence as electricity, ventilation and heating. Environmental and efficiency requirements are imposed on such an important component of the home communications network; the drainage system of a private house should be simple to arrange and convenient to use.

Schematic diagram of the sewage system in a private house

One of the main issues of improvement is sewerage for a private house; how to design it correctly and what to focus on during installation will help you figure out the rules that have been tested empirically.

Varieties of sewage systems in a private house

All houses located in the private sector are conventionally divided into two categories:

Houses with the ability to connect to the city (central) network. In most cases, it is the best option, with a long service life and no problems with maintenance, unplanned waste and water quality control.

Houses where connection to a centralized system is not possible. The fact that the city network is not available is not a reason to give up comfort. In such conditions, the sewerage device in a private house is reduced to an autonomous option, where water treatment and waste disposal takes place in a locally installed treatment plant.

You can also combine the sewer and drainage systems

The autonomous sewerage system includes:

Internal sewerage, responsible for collecting wastewater and their output to the outside. It includes internal wiring (piping system), as well as plumbing and household appliances.

Outdoor sewerage... Its elements are external piping and a water purification device (septic tank or autonomous sewage system).

The most suitable (in terms of performance) type of individual cleaning equipment is chosen, taking into account several factors:

seasonality of living in the house;

intensity of water use;

the size of the site, the type and structure of the soil;

groundwater level;

climatic conditions of the region.

The first stage of the sewerage installation is the development of a preliminary design scheme.

Rules for drawing up a sewerage scheme in the house

The sewerage scheme in a private house is tied to the plan of the house. It should contain the key elements of the system - a riser (if there is more than one floor in the building), pipe markings (internal wiring, corners and turns), water drain points.

When designing, it is important to remember that an overly complicated circuit will in the future cause problems during operation and repair.

Internal wiring is laid during the construction of the house. Its installation begins when the roof of the house and floors are installed, but the finishing work of the premises has not yet been carried out. The external sewerage system is installed after the internal system is fully equipped. Below is a sewerage scheme for a private two-story house:

General scheme of internal sewerage in a two-story house

The procedure for drawing up the scheme:

All drawings are built to scale, the place of installation of the riser, the lines for laying pipes, the number of drain points (connecting plumbing and household appliances) are applied to the plan.

The size of the riser is determined, the total length of the pipeline (taking into account the outlet) is calculated, the point of exit from the structure of the main riser.

In places of possible clogging, cleaning and revisions are provided.

A separate drawing is built for each floor.

The size and place of installation of the sewer pipe is calculated (in large sewer systems it prevents the occurrence of a vacuum in the sewer pipe)

The external communications scheme is based on the same principle.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the design and installation of sewerage and water supply. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the Low-Rise Country exhibition of houses.

About the sewage system with a fan pipe in the video:

Selection of pipes for internal sewerage

The following categories of pipes are allowed by building codes:

Cast iron... Traditional (until recently) solution. Cast iron products are strong, corrosion resistant and durable. The disadvantage is the weight and roughness of the inner surface. The latter quality contributes to the formation of deposits and the appearance of blockages. The pipes are ideal for burial.

Plastic... They are lighter and cheaper than their cast iron counterparts, have a smooth surface, but are less durable. Pipes for in-house wiring are gray; for external use are made of orange plastic. The most popular options include:

Pipes from Pvc (polyvinyl chloride). Frost-resistant and wear-resistant, the main disadvantage is high hardness. They soften from heat and are mainly used in outdoor work.

Pipes from PP (polypropylene). Elastic, lightweight and durable. They are appreciated for their heat resistance (they soften only at 140 C °), therefore they are ideal for indoor use.

Plastic pipes for internal and external circuit

Less common ceramic and asbestos-cement analogs.

In practice, the installation of a sewage system in a private house in most cases is carried out using products made of polymeric materials (plastic). The choice is due to the absence of corrosion (plastic is resistant to the aggressive environment of drains), and easy installation of structures.

How is sewer wiring done

The most laborious part of the work is considered to be the sewerage system for a private house; how to carry it out correctly is indicated in the design and installation rules.

Inside the house

Elements of the sewerage system for a private house are mounted in parallel with the construction of the building. Openings for internal wiring are laid during the construction of walls, partitions and ceilings.

Sewerage installation technology provides for several types of pipes:

Sewer riser, 100 mm in diameter.

Trunk (between the riser and the branch); diameter 70 mm.

Diversion (connected to a washbasin, bath, washing machine) - 50 mm.

Completed installation of the branch pipe

The spillway system inside the house is gravity (non-pressure). To avoid blockages, pipes are mounted with a slope, the value of which is controlled by the level and depends on the diameter. A sewer pipe with a diameter of 40–50 mm is given a slope of 30 mm per running meter, with a diameter of 100 mm - 20 mm.

Completed ceiling wiring

Horizontal wiring is performed using oblique tees and adapters (crosses) for connection. Turns are carried out using two knees with a smooth bend at an angle of 45 °; this arrangement reduces the risk of clogging. After each turn, revisions (cleaning) are provided. Right angles are only allowed in vertically positioned structures.

Fan pipe

When a large amount of drains enter the sewer system, the latter can completely fill the entire diameter of the pipe. At the same time, when the drains go down, a region of low atmospheric pressure (rarefaction) is created behind them, into which water from the siphon and air from the room are sucked in with characteristic sounds.

When the pressure is equalized, then without a water plug through the siphons, the smell from the sewer enters the room back into the room. To prevent the occurrence of a vacuum, a fan pipe with an air valve is installed - they are responsible for maintaining atmospheric pressure in all parts of the sewer system.

Features of the funnel pipe:

It is designed and displayed 50-70 cm above the roof.

It is forbidden to combine it with a chimney or ventilation.

It is not placed near windows or balconies.

Output of the exhaust (fan) pipe through the roof

Outer part

Installation of the outer part of the sewer system begins after determining the location of the septic tank.

The outlet (a connecting link between the external and internal sewerage system at the border of the room) is laid at the base of the house below the freezing point of the soil and is thermally insulated. If it was not foreseen during the laying of the foundation, it is necessary to drill a hole for the thermowell, 200-250 mm wider than the pipe diameter. Its edge should protrude 15 cm from each side of the foundation. The space between the sleeve and the outlet pipe is filled with foam.

Laying of external communications

It is reasonable to locate wet rooms (kitchen, bathroom) side by side and at the same time as close as possible to the central riser. This will help to shorten the length of the sewer lines to the riser, which will facilitate installation and further maintenance.

A large project (pool, bathhouse, sauna), additional plumbing means a large amount of drains. You will need a carefully designed scheme of water supply and drainage, additional risers and septic tanks, pump connection.

Sewerage pipes in a private house can be placed under the floor, in the walls or laid on top. A water seal is installed near the sink, in the shower and in the toilet, thanks to which extraneous odors cannot enter the premises.

It is inadmissible to arbitrarily change the slope. Its increase will lead to a deterioration in the self-cleaning of the system and the appearance of strong noises. As the slope decreases, the water flow slows down, which is fraught with blockage.

Slope control when laying sewers

The complex terrain of the site creates additional problems for laying the pipeline with a slope. In this case, an axonometric diagram is built to determine the position of the sewage elements in space. If difficult places cannot be bypassed, the installation of a pump will be the solution.

Clearly about some of the nuances of sewage in the video:

Conclusion

A well-designed and organized sewage system will help create the necessary minimum of comfort for the inhabitants of the house. The attraction of specialized specialists contributes to the achievement of this worthy goal. And it doesn't matter whether it is a wooden house or a brick one - the principles of the system are the same everywhere.

Arrangement of the sewer system requires the most scrupulous attitude to all stages of the process, including depth, slope, reliability of connections. Each of these factors has a great impact on the quality of the entire system. Carelessness is unacceptable here, if you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to turn to professionals.

Sewer installation depth

Modern sewerage systems significantly improve the standard of living in a private house. If in previous years a toilet on the street was perceived as an unpleasant necessity, inseparable from a private house, today it is a sign of the laziness of the owners or their extremely low income. Moreover, in the first case, you can get out of the situation by hiring professionals who will do absolutely all the work.

The depth of the pipeline depends on the depth of the septic tank.

Advice! The pipe between the building and the septic tank must be straight. Knees, turns will provoke blockages.

Before arranging the sewer system, it is worth finding out what the average frost penetration depth is in your area. The pipes must be laid slightly lower than these figures. Typically, the depth at which the sewer pipes are located in a private house in the south is more than 50 cm.In the central part of the country, where the climate is harsher, the depth of laying the sewage system in a private house is at least 70 cm. These figures are especially significant if sewer pipes are located under platforms or under paths, which are freed from snow in winter.

Features of laying sewer pipes

The laying of sewer pipes must be carried out in accordance with the following rules:

you need to use pipes of the required diameter;
it is necessary to comply with the standard slope rate (about 0.03 m per 1 running meter of the pipe);
it is permissible to use pipes made of different materials, but in one pipeline the pipes must be the same in material.

The depth of the pipeline can be determined based on the following points:

the nature of the site (its relief, soil features);
the exit point of the sewer pipe from the house.

The angle of inclination is needed so that the wastewater flows by gravity, in this case there is no need to install a pump, excess dirt will not accumulate inside the pipe, which can provoke blockages. For the same purpose, the outer part of the system is performed without turns. Here, inside the room, the sewerage system in a private house allows pipe turns, this will not become a serious obstacle to the functionality of the system. If you allow turns of the outer part of the sewer system, then you will definitely have to tear off these pipes,. Consequently, neglect of these rules can create very serious problems that are not always realistic to quickly solve.

Advice! If it is impossible to pass the sewer pipe without turns, a well must be made at the place of the turn, into which it will always be possible to penetrate and remove the blockage in this area. This technique allows you to lay a sewer pipeline at any site.

Why is the installation depth important?

The main reason for the need to be overly attentive to the depth of pipe laying is the possibility of freezing. If this happens in the middle of winter, residents of the house will be left without the opportunity to use the sewer until warm days, when the ice melts. Even the smallest ice build-up inside the pipes will lead to blockages and reduce or completely stop passability. This is a natural result of the narrowing of the pipe lumen. Wells help to get rid of the blockages that appear in the places of pipe turns in the external system.

Such a convenient device allows you to control the work of the sewage system, to eliminate emerging problems in time. It is not very difficult to do it, but it brings a lot of comfort into the operation process.

Taking into account the depth of soil freezing is a fundamental requirement. In order not to spend money on arranging deeper trenches than necessary, you need to have a clear idea of \u200b\u200bthe depth of soil freezing in a given area. Below is a table to help you navigate this issue.

How to properly equip thermal insulation?

In cold regions, it is recommended to supplement the sewer pipeline with thermal insulation. This technique allows you to extend the operational life, exclude the possibility of freezing at very low temperatures. Most often, polyurethane foam is taken for this purpose. If the pipe is wrapped in polyurethane foam, and the top is made of polyethylene, the pipe will not be afraid of frost.

If you lay pipes below the possible freezing point, then the pipes will never freeze. In this case, additional protection is made in case of extreme cold weather. When performing thermal insulation, special attention is paid to joints and turning points. It is these zones that tolerate the effects of cold rather poorly. So insulating the turning points is a must.

In Europe, a more technologically advanced method is used. An electric cable is run next to the pipeline, it, if necessary, performs the function of a heater for the pipe. For many residents of our country, this method is too expensive, because paying for energy is not the smallest item of expenditure. Therefore, it is necessary to monitor the depth of pipe laying. In the central regions it is better to choose a depth of 1m. And in the northern regions, it is advisable to dig deeper trenches and carry out high-quality thermal insulation. You can do this with either fiberglass. If the pipes are located above the ground, they are also insulated with similar materials. Since they can fill with water,.

Video - Installation of outdoor sewerage and insulation

The inside of the sewer system of a private house

For the smooth operation of the sewage system, you must comply with the requirements for the diameter of the pipes:

toilet, shower, bath, pool - 10 - 11 cm;
sink - 5 cm;
riser - 10 - 11 cm.

Video - Correct installation of sewer pipes

The outer part of the sewer system of a private house

The main requirement is to ensure proper bias. The only correct drain is gravity. Too low a speed will result in blockages. Too fast movement of drains - to accelerate the destruction of pipes.

The sewerage system in a private house includes a description of the features of the pipe exit from the room. The rules for removing the pipe from the house depend on the type of foundation. With a strip foundation, the output is arranged on the side. With a slab, the pipe is laid from top to bottom, for this a piece of pipe and a 45 ° elbow is used. To arrange the sewage system, a sleeve-pipe is laid in the foundation in advance, through which the main pipeline is then taken out. Such a foundation is needed to protect the pipeline from excessive pressure and potential destruction.

In the photo - The standard depth of the sewer pipe.

In order not to be mistaken in the depth of the pipe laying, it is necessary to find out how things are with the neighbors, who have already equipped themselves with a drain. If they have trouble freezing the pipe, you need to deepen your pipe more. No matter how deep the pipe lies, a slope is needed in any case. Usually make 2 - 3 cm for each running meter.

Beforehand, you should make a detailed diagram of the piping inside the house. This will reduce time and financial costs by providing all the best options.
Pipes are led towards the riser or to the septic tank, sharp corners are excluded.
The riser on each floor must be equipped with a tee designed for servicing the sewer system for quick cleaning.

A cozy country house is the dream of every city dweller, which can be overshadowed by the lack of practical, functional communications. Indeed, private houses are residential buildings, and modern people are used to living in comfort. You do not perceive such resources as electricity, water supply as a luxury, but as natural needs, which are quite normal and even natural to have in your private home. Needless to say, how important a normal sewage system is in it.

Purpose and choice of sewage

Wastewater disposal has a certain universal name - sewerage. It can be centralized, that is, connected with pipes to central sewage networks (usually in a city), and autonomous.

The need for an autonomous sewage system is very strongly felt outside the city or in the private sector, consisting of individual houses and buildings. It can be not only residential, but also public, industrial buildings, the activities of which are associated with wastewater disposal.

As one of the most important communal systems, the sewerage system can be divided into two main parts:

In order to correctly and rationally choose the type of sewage system for your private house, and not make mistakes, they are guided by the following parameters:

The number of consumers (residents) in the house;
The volume of water consumption per person, taking into account all plumbing fixtures in the house;
Dimensions of the adjoining plot;
Soil properties;
The degree of groundwater occurrence;
Features of the climate.

In more detail, all the current rules for the arrangement of sewerage are described in SNiP 2.04.03-85. “Sewerage. External networks and facilities ".

Types of autonomous sewage systems for a private house

You can arrange drainage in a private house in different ways. Each of the methods listed below has its own advantages and disadvantages, weighing which it is usually not difficult to make your best choice.

Cesspool - the most ancient and simple way of waste disposal, which not long ago had no analogues at all. The primitive device of such a sewage system is a shallow pit with unreinforced walls and without any bottom protection. After filling it, the pit is covered with earth, and a new one is made in another place. The device of a cesspool is more or less practical with a very small volume of drains, not exceeding 1 m 3. The modern version of the cesspool is arranged with an inner part reinforced with concrete or brickwork, and a gravel cushion (20 - 30 cm) for additional soil wastewater treatment. The principle and scheme of work are very simple: water from the drains, falling to the bottom of the pit, seeps through the gravel base, fecal dense masses accumulate in the pit, and are periodically pumped out by the sewer. The addition of aerobic bacteria speeds up the wastewater treatment process, which also helps fight unpleasant odors. The cesspool is designed for a small number of plumbing fixtures, and is practically not done in modern country houses. Main disadvantages: low permeability, the bottom of the pit should be located at a distance of one meter from the groundwater;

Important!
Arrangement of a cesspool, regulated by the rules of SNiP. To prevent soil and groundwater pollution, its location should be at least:

3 m from the fence;
5 m from a residential building;
10 m from the garden;
20 - 50 m from the source of drinking water.

Storage tank or tank - a ready-made and inexpensive version of such a container is widely available on the market today from HDPE plastic. It can also be equipped with your own hands, using concrete rings, metal tanks. Principle and scheme of work: drains enter the container through the supplied pipes by gravity. Specialized plastic sewer tanks throughout the entire area are reinforced with stiffeners, which also make them as stable as possible during installation. Their body is strong enough. Equipped with an inspection hatch for pumping out drains, which should be insulated for the winter. The deepening of such tanks does not require wastewater control and does not require any special preparation. The only drawback is that it is often necessary to drain the tank.

Important!
The location of such a tank on the site of a private house must be foreseen in advance, since it should be convenient for subsequent cleaning with a sewage machine.

Septic tank - an autonomous sewerage device for wastewater treatment. There are single and multi-chamber septic tanks, with a passive or forced cleaning process. The simplest is a single-chamber septic tank. In fact, this is the same cesspool, the bottom of which is covered with a sand and gravel cushion. It can be made with your own hands from a large container, reinforced concrete rings, or by reinforcing the pit with brickwork. The walls of such a septic tank are carefully waterproofed to avoid soil contamination. The disadvantage is a small permeability of wastewater, periodic replacement of a silted sand and gravel cushion.

Two-chamber septic tank - the design is more advanced, but its scheme is simple. It provides for several compartments: a sump and a filtration well. Such a septic tank is made from HDPE or fiberglass ready-made, providing for technological water locks that allow drains to pass only in one direction. There are also inspection hatches and additional oxygen storage chambers with vents. This is done so that natural aerobic bacteria can be used in the first chamber of this septic tank, helping the cleaning process and eliminating unpleasant odors. Oxygen is mandatory for them, since this process is accompanied by fermentation and decomposition into elementary components of the main biomass of the effluent.

This simple structure is often made with your own hands as a monolithic or precast made of reinforced concrete rings. Its inner part is reliably waterproofed. The material is relatively comfortable, but extremely durable with sufficient waterproofing measures. A monolithic septic tank can be made roomy enough. Its production is more laborious than prefabricated, since for pouring concrete it is necessary to expose the formwork and the connecting reinforcing cage, which strengthens the structural elements. The filling process itself is associated with filling, ramming and subsequent drying of the resulting structure. Such work should be done only in the warm season. A prefabricated concrete septic tank is assembled from separate concrete rings, welding them “on mortgages” to each other, and coating the joints with mortar and bitumen. The resulting well is divided into two halves by a partition in which a small pipe outlet or blocker is placed. Plastic two-chamber septic tanks sometimes provide for additional soil treatment in the form of an additional chamber with water diffusers into the soil through pipes. At the exit of a two-chamber septic tank, purified water for technical needs is obtained. The septic tank itself needs to be periodically cleaned from the flotation crust, silt accumulations using a sewage machine.

A septic tank with biofiltration is a design of several separate chambers or chambers coupled with one housing, the filtration process in which takes place in a passive mode. Operating principle: multi-stage filtration using various bacteria. The best solution would be to use anaerobic bacteria in the first stage of purification, which do not need oxygen. In the inner part of its last chamber, saturated with oxygen from the aerotank, a biofilter is placed. It is a lattice with a colony of aerobic bacteria placed on it, and a backfill of expanded clay or granular polymer. This chamber creates ideal conditions for the vital activity of bacteria. The water here is purified up to 95%, which makes it quite suitable for technical needs.

Three- and four-chamber septic tanks are the most advanced designs of septic tanks for a private house at the moment. They are produced by companies producing specialized equipment for autonomous closed-type sewers. This means that they do not need any additional soil treatment. Such devices are so perfect that the usual rules of indentation from residential buildings, burial into the soil, control of groundwater and climatic changes do not apply to them. All chambers are united by one durable plastic case, and are connected by blocking pipes, the cleaning process is controlled by an electronic system of sensors, and the movement of sewage along its inner part is provided by one or two powerful pumps that can easily cope with volley discharges of water. To support aerobic bacteria, oxygen is also forced into the septic tank chambers. Such a septic tank needs to be cleaned every 3-6 months (depending on the volume of wastewater). And it's not even difficult to do it yourself without the help of specialists. All that is needed for its work is a small pit a little larger than the septic tank itself, piping and power supply. They are also called stations for deep biological wastewater treatment. The only drawback is an expensive pleasure. However, wastewater treatment with such systems is possible up to 98%!

Photo: autonomous sewerage scheme of a private house

Having decided to properly carry out the sewage system in your private house, you need to pay attention to the following features:

Before starting all work, it is necessary to make a project of the entire sewage system, which will display its entire scheme, pipes with all elements, a septic tank, as well as calculations for its permeability;
It is best to insulate the external sewage pipes so that the water in it does not freeze in frost. The recommended pipe diameter is 100-110 mm, the minimum angle of inclination of the gravity drainage system is 5 o;
Sewer pipe connections must be reliable and tight, any leaks are excluded.

Arranging a private house with an autonomous sewage system is a very important and not so difficult job. Guided by the rules of SNIPs and SanPin, you can assemble it yourself, equip it reliably and correctly, providing yourself and your loved ones with exceptional comfort for many years.

If desired, even a private house in the countryside can be equipped. The first thing that a resident of a country faces is the lack of a warm toilet in the house. Without sewerage, a person is deprived of many amenities. This is not a luxury, it is a necessity. Sewerage in a private house is a complex process that requires taking into account every little thing. How can this be done?

External and internal

The work related to the arrangement of the sewage system in a private house begins with the design of the internal and In the first case, the installation of a drain pipe, a riser is required, as well as the distribution of pipes to all rooms where this is required: a kitchen, a toilet, a bathroom, and so on. As for the external system, this is everything that is located outside the house. Its arrangement requires piping to the septic tank. You can also connect the sewer to a deep cleaning station.

The task is greatly facilitated if it is possible to discharge waste water into a centralized system. If the house is located in an isolated area, then a system should be created with a homemade septic tank. It can be with or cumulative. A cesspool is not suitable in this case.

Layout in a private house

Before starting work, a plan should be drawn up for laying pipes inside a private house. The process is greatly simplified if all wet rooms are located in close proximity. The scheme is drawn up strictly individually. In the process, you should take into account all the features of the house and the location of the premises. The finished version can look anything you like.

When designing a sewage system inside a house, it is necessary to accurately calculate the location of the collector pipe. Only then can you determine where the rest of the system will be laid.

How to make a correct diagram

The sewerage scheme in a private house is an important stage. The quality of the system and its reliability depend on how correctly the plan is drawn up. Stages of drawing up a diagram:

On a piece of paper, preferably in a box, you need to recreate the plan of the house. When drawing up a plan, consider the scale.
Then it is worth deciding on the location of the riser or collector pipe.
At all levels of the building, the location of the plumbing should be noted. At this stage, you should learn about how to connect it.
From plumbing, it is necessary to lay pipes on paper to the riser. In this case, all connecting elements, tees, branches and corners should be taken into account.
It is necessary to measure the length of each element of the internal system and summarize the data. The result will be the required number of pipes. In this case, the diameter of the material must be taken into account.

The final stage is drawing up a diagram of the external system: the release of pipes, their laying to the septic tank. In this case, it is necessary to take into account all the requirements specified in SanPiN 2.1.4.1110-02, as well as SNiP 2.04.03-85.

What you need to consider when arranging an internal system

The laying of an internal sewage system in a private house begins after drawing up an approximate scheme. There are several nuances to consider at this stage:

To drain wastewater from the toilet, pipes with a diameter of 10-11 cm are required. Their total length must be at least 100 centimeters.
For gray drains that enter the common riser from the kitchen and bathroom, pipes made of PP or PVC are required. The diameter of the material should be 5 centimeters.
To arrange turns in the system, it is necessary to use several plastic elbows made at an angle of 45 °. This reduces the risk of blockages during the use of the sewer.
It is best to use polypropylene for arranging the sewage system inside the house, or this material is more durable, reliable and relatively inexpensive. When using such pipes, laying a sewage system in a private house is simplified.

Choosing pipes

Sewerage in a private house requires careful preparation. After drawing up the scheme and making the necessary calculations, the purchase of materials is required. For wiring inside the house, gray pipes are used. For the arrangement of the external system, orange pipes are required. You can explain the difference in color based on logic. Orange hues are best seen in the ground. In addition, the pipes have differences in properties. First of all, it concerns the material. Pipes buried underground have to withstand more severe loads. The material for their manufacture must be more rigid.

In order for the laying of a sewage system in a private house with your own hands to be successful, you can use two-layer corrugated pipes. But, as practice shows, their use is often inappropriate. After all, the depth of the sewerage in a private house is from 2 to 3 meters. It is much cheaper and no less effective to use orange pipes. Most often, a material with a diameter of 11 centimeters is used to equip an external system. This is enough for normal wastewater disposal.

How to lay pipes? It's simple!

Do-it-yourself sewerage installation in a private house requires certain skills and patience. The most difficult stage is the placement of the pipes and their fastening. It is almost impossible to do this alone. Therefore, an assistant is required to work. This will not only speed up the process, but also improve quality.

The easiest way to lay sewage is to use PVC or PP pipes. A fairly wide range of similar products is produced. If necessary, you can purchase material of the required diameter, tees, elbows and revisions. It should be noted that each part is equipped with a special rubberized insert - a cuff. Thanks to this element, laying the sewerage of a private house takes a little time. The joints are connected easily and reliably. If desired, you can process the seams additionally. A silicone-based plumbing sealant is suitable for this.

What to consider

When laying pipes, it is necessary to take into account some of the nuances:

If pipes run through walls or ceilings, then they must be placed in special sleeves that reduce the load on the system fragments.
The slope of the elements of the sewer system depends on their diameter and is spelled out in SNiP 2.04.03-85. For example, for a material whose diameter is 5 centimeters, this indicator should be 3 cm / m, and with a diameter of 10 to 11 centimeters - 2 cm / m.

Sewerage outlet arrangement

If a problem has arisen and the internal system has a discrepancy with the external one, then the laying of sewer pipes in a private house should begin with the release. This is the border area between systems. At this point, the riser is connected to the pipe leading to the wastewater collection tank.

It is necessary to mount the outlet through the foundation wall. The depth of its laying should be lower than the depth of soil freezing. Otherwise, in winter, difficulties may arise during the operation of the sewage system. If an outlet hole was not specified during the construction of the building, it will have to be punched. Its diameter must match the dimensions of the pipe in the sleeve. The latter should be longer than the hole. On each edge, the sleeve must cover the pipe by more than 15 centimeters. These are the basic requirements for a sewer outlet.

Installation of a riser and further wiring

The pipe size from the riser to the toilet should be 1000 mm. This allows you to determine its location. It is better to mount the riser in the toilet itself. The installation can be hidden or open. It all depends on where the pipe will be installed. You can install the riser close to the wall. For this it is worth using suspensions and clamps. You can also mount the pipe in a niche, in a channel or in a box.

To connect the riser and the rest of the system, you can use oblique tees. If the pipes are different in diameter, then adapters should be used to connect them. They eliminate the need for a sealant. In places where there is an intersection of elements coming from a shower, sink or bathtub, a collector pipe must be installed. Its diameter should be between 10 and 11 centimeters. Do not forget about water seals. These elements prevent unpleasant odors from entering the living space.

On each floor, an audit is installed in the riser - a kind of tee designed to clean the system with a strong blockage.

What is a fan pipe

Observing the rules for laying sewers in a private house, you can easily create an external and internal system. In addition to installing a riser, a fan pipe is also required. This is its continuation, which is displayed on the roof of the house. This part is installed on the riser. The revision is mounted at the junction. After that, the funnel is led out into the attic at an angle. Do not connect it to the building ventilation system or to the chimney.

Varieties of septic tanks

Laying an external sewage system in a private house is no less important stage than installing an internal system. With the wrong arrangement, problems can arise not only with comfort, but also with environmentalists. One mistake can turn sewers into a big smelly problem that will take a lot of time and money to fix.

You should start with a septic tank device. Sludge-type structures are most often used. This is a container or their combination through which the drains pass. They are gradually cleared. This is due to the deposition of heavy inclusions. After that, the drains undergo additional purification in a filtration well or on the field. In this case, both mechanical and biological cleaning methods are used.

There is another, simpler type of septic tank - accumulative. In this case, a closed container of a sufficiently large volume is installed. All drains are collected in it. To empty such a septic tank, sewage pumping is required, which is carried out.This method of arranging an external system is easier to carry out. Plus, it's cheaper.

How to calculate the required volume

Calculating the dimensions is not that difficult. The volume is determined on the basis of settling for 3 days. The average consumption per person per day is 200 liters. If desired, this indicator can be calculated individually. If two people live in the house on a permanent basis, then the volume of the tank for the septic tank should be:

2 x 200 x 3 \u003d 1200 liters or 1.2 cubic meters.

Stages of installation of the outdoor system

Sewerage in a private house does not end after the complete installation of the internal system. After all, the arrangement of the outer part is required. Stages of arrangement of the external system:

First, you need to prepare materials: a ready-made container of the required volume from PP or a ring of reinforced concrete. If desired, you can lay out a brick or fill in a monolith.
The next step is to determine the appropriate wastewater treatment method.
After that, earthworks are carried out: a pit is dug under a container and trenches for laying pipes.
All structural elements must be connected. At the same time, do not forget about the comfortable maintenance of the septic tank.
The pipes should be installed at a specific slope. This indicator should be 2 cm / m. The joints must be sealed.
The septic tank should be equipped with a ventilation system.
Having carried out work on heat and waterproofing of individual fragments of the system, you can fill the structure with soil.

When placing a septic tank, it is worth considering the location of buildings on a personal plot. You should not place a waste container near a recreation area or playground.

In conclusion

Now you know how the sewerage of a private house is carried out. If you follow all the rules, you will get a reliable system. Before starting the operation of the sewage system, it is worthwhile to run it. For this, the system must be flushed with clean water. This will allow you to identify all the shortcomings and correct them. Only then can the operation of the sewer system begin.

In fact, the process of assembling individual fragments is not difficult. The main thing is not to make mistakes when drawing up a sewage scheme, as well as to make the correct slope of the pipes. Otherwise, the system will not function normally.

The question of arranging a full-fledged bathroom in a private house arises before each owner. Technologies make it possible to equip domestic sewerage systems without special investments, both material and temporary. And fewer and fewer residential private buildings remain with amenities in the yard. In this article, we will consider such popular questions: what types and types of sewerage exist, the sewerage device in the house with our own hands, what is a septic tank and how to make it, how to make a septic tank from concrete rings, what is a cesspool and how to make it, as well as related questions.

Sewerage types for private households are divided into two parts.

For cottage settlements or urban areas where the private sector is close to apartment buildings, the sewage system for a private house is brought to the centralized drain collectors. This solution is convenient, since all the difficulties consist only in the high-quality laying of sewer pipes to the place of the tie-in. However, there is also a negative side of connecting a private house to the city sewerage network - payment for sewerage services. A tariff is set for apartment buildings and the total volume of wastewater disposal corresponds to the total amount of consumed water. Accounting is carried out according to the number of registered, according to the norms or according to water metering devices.

For a private house, where the lion's share of the water used is not discharged into the sewer, charging payment according to the readings of a water meter can significantly complicate life. To many, this issue will seem unimportant, but some of the owners strive for autonomy, therefore it remains relevant.

The traditional method of drainage in private houses is a cesspool, it is also a septic tank, it is also a sewer pit.

Before proceeding with a detailed guide to its creation and arrangement, it is necessary to carry out all the plumbing work in the house.

Diy sewerage device in the house

Most of the buildings in the private sector have one floor. In the same place where there are two of them, the bathroom is located on the first floor. Modern private construction projects provide for the placement of plumbing on each floor, but all objects are adjacent to a common riser. As an example, consider a standard one-story building, where you need to carry out the sewage system with your own hands.

So, you need to place a sink in the kitchen, a washbasin and a bath / shower in the bathroom, and a toilet in the toilet.

Bathroom and toilet can be combined or separate. In any case, the drain will be common for them, therefore, the distribution of drain points in the room must be done in such a way that the distance to the "riser" (the main pipe with a diameter of 110 mm, which will bring drains to the street) is minimal.

The kitchen where the sink is located, according to the design documents, often has an adjacent wall with a bath or toilet. In this case, no difficulties arise. If the kitchen is remote from the main riser, it is necessary to lay a separate drain before connecting it to the riser. Depending on the situation, this can be done both in the perimeter of the house (the drain connection enters the riser, which includes the sinks from the washbasin and bath / shower), and outside the perimeter (if the location of the kitchen and the bathroom does not allow the pipes to be brought down in the perimeter, they outside the house, where they can connect or enter the drain pit separately).

The above difficulties are caused by the fact that for a high-quality water flow, it is necessary to observe the slope of the sewage system, which is not always possible to do in situations where the distance from point to point is large. The slope of the sewer should be a certain percentage depending on the diameter of the pipe. See the slope values \u200b\u200bof the sewer depending on the pipe diameter in the figure below.

Sewerage pipes are laid under the floor. Most of the buildings have wooden floors raised above ground level. The cavities under the floor are empty, which gives a lot of options for solving the problem. The slope is measured by the building level or marks on the masonry, along which the pipe should pass. The assembled pipe spans are tested at intermediate stages by pouring water into the system and controlling its drain. It is important that a small part does not stagnate anywhere, since a blockage forms there, which will be difficult to eliminate after flooring. Sewer slopes more than 5% are permissible if it is dictated by the convenience of placing the system or by the margin of distances under the floor.

Final assembly

When the drains are removed from the places of each discharge to the final place, the final assembly is to be done. PVC pipes for sewage have all the necessary elbows and adapters, as well as tees with various transitions, allowing you to join together the drains from the sink, shower and washing machine. Next, the riser and drain from the toilet are combined. After completion of the work, final testing with a high load is required to eliminate leaks, if any, and to avoid blockages and water accumulation.

Sewerage is released outside the perimeter of the house at a depth of at least 300 mm. It depends on the climatic features of the region, as well as on the slope of the site, the proximity of groundwater, which affect the depth of the drainage pit.

At each of the drain points, except for the toilet bowl, an elbow is made from a flexible hose, in which a small amount of water constantly stands, the so-called water seal, which excludes the penetration of an unpleasant smell from the drain. If necessary, it takes 10 minutes to clear the blockage in such a knee.

Drain system

It is she who becomes for many homeowners a stumbling block in matters of arranging a domestic sewage system in a private house. Technology has greatly simplified the work with the contents of such pits, allowing them to do without maintenance for many years.
Domestic sewerage is divided into two types - a septic tank and a traditional drain pit.

Septic tank

A technological solution promoted in the construction of cottage townships and small country houses. They are a plastic or metal container that collects all waste and organic waste. It uses only its usable volume, which is partially increased by the use of microorganisms (septic) that convert organic matter into gas (removed through the ventilation duct, does not harm the environment) and clean water (suitable for irrigating the site with a small pump). For a full-fledged residential building for a large family, large capacity models are offered.

The bottleneck of this type of sewage is its price. The cost of containers is quite high, moreover, transportation and installation are imposed on it, which must be performed in compliance with the technology so that the container remains intact.

The advantage that is worth noting is that the septic tank can be mounted in areas with high groundwater levels. The containers are sunk in dug holes, then loaded with a load so that the water does not push them out of the ground during the flood.

The average maintenance period with proper use and adequate space saving is 2-5 years.

Septic tank made of concrete rings

One of the subspecies of a septic tank is a device made from factory concrete rings. This type of septic tank is quite popular, because it is relatively cheap, fast and easy to install. It is quite easy to make a septic tank from concrete rings with your own hands. To do this, we dig a hole of sufficient depth. To cut off water, a layer of rubble is placed on the bottom.

Usually they put 3 one and a half meter rings on top of each other, then cover them with a lid with a hole. Another small ring is placed on this hole to access the septic tank. Such a ring is closed by a sewer hatch. The rings are fastened together with cement mortar. If you are making a septic tank with an overflow, then you need to make 2 or 3 such pyramids from rings. The more overflow chambers, the cleaner the outlet water will be. The bottom in the first chamber is waterproofed and concreted. A hole is punched in the upper part of the upper large ring and a 110 mm pipe is inserted onto which tees are put on on both sides.

If you want to make 3 chambers, then we repeat the procedure with the hole and pipe, but place them just below the overflow level from the first chamber to the second. From the last chamber, a pipe is diverted to the drainage field, or the bottom is left open in it and large crushed stone is laid on it. On the sides outside, the rings are covered with sand to cut off the water. Do not forget to bring the ventilation pipe out of the chambers for air access.

Video about a septic tank made of concrete rings

Cesspool

It has been used for many decades without any complaints and special problems. Even in areas with a high level of groundwater filling such pits during the flood period, a solution was found in the form of placing a pit at a shallow depth, but with a large area.

The place to place the pit and drain the sewer from the house must be determined before the start of all work, since reorienting the system already divorced under the floor will require recalculating slopes and additional time.

The pipe leading from the house to the pit is deepened by 500 - 800 mm, if the water level allows. Otherwise, it is necessary to insulate it as much as possible and leave the revision windows (a special butt block with an opening lid) for convenient cleaning every 3 meters of the pipe length.

The average volume of a pit for this type of sewerage is 5 cubic meters per adult. At the same time, you should not neglect organic septic tanks, which will allow you to do without pumping out the contents for decades at all.

We build a drain pit

Having chosen a place, you need to determine the linear dimensions and depth, dig a hole and carefully align the walls. The perimeter near the walls at the bottom is dug under the edge by 300 mm and deepens by about 500 mm in depth. A small layer of rubble is placed on the bottom, then 2-3 rows of a half-block without holes are placed on the mortar. This will be the base for the walls of the cesspool.

Walls (only he is able to withstand the microenvironment for a long time), making gaps between bricks at 20 - 25% of their length, starting from 5-6 rows. Through these intervals, water will flow away, which will allow less frequent servicing of the pit.

The masonry is removed not to the edge of the pit, but with a 400 mm shortfall. The main thing is that the sewer outlet pipe is completely lined.

At the bottom of the pit, medium crushed stone is laid out in a layer up to 200 mm thick, from above it can be strengthened with stones collected from slag heaps, similar to pumice for feet. This trick allows you to pump out the hole even less often, since microorganisms that absorb organic matter develop well in the pores of such a drain.

The overlap can be anything from a curly finished reinforced concrete slab to a self-poured product. This product is created from flat slate or galvanized sheet, laid out on top of the masonry cut. The future overlap should protrude at least 250 - 300 mm beyond the edges of the masonry. Reinforcement from bars is laid on top. A mesh made of reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm with a cell of 20 by 20 cm will suffice. The lower edge of the mesh must be raised from the base by at least 20 mm (it is better to lay it on stones or protective layer clamps). We build the formwork on the sides of the reinforcement and fill everything with a layer of concrete of 100-200 mm.

If the linear dimensions are large in the center of the pit, a support is made of brick or cast-iron pipe on which the floors rest.

It is imperative to leave the hatch for access to the pit, as well as for pumping it out if necessary.

An excellent solution would be to make the upper edge of the slab below ground level and lay the space around the hatch with sod.

It is imperative to leave the outlet for ventilation (standard PVC sewer pipe). Many people make gazebos or parking spaces for cars on top. But in this case, the reinforcement and the slab above the pit must be seriously strengthened.

We hope you have figured out the basics of sewerage in your home. If you still have questions, ask them in the comments to the article, we will definitely answer them.