How to lay tiles on wooden joists. Laying tiles on a wooden floor in a private house. Can I put

The ceramic tile floor is ideal for bathroom, toilet, kitchen. But what if the base is wooden flooring and the budget of the event is limited? Many people have a question about how to put tiles on a wooden floor in order to avoid completely dismantling the previous structure and installing the subfloor from scratch.

Features of a wooden floor

By its nature, wood is not a stable building material. With changes in temperature and humidity, wood products "play", constantly expanding, then losing in volume. A situation is considered normal when products and structures, made even with dried and carefully processed wood, sit down for several years, changing the geometry. Visually insignificant movements occurring over a certain period are not noticeable. But for a tile, even a slight instability of the base geometry can be disastrous - the lining peels off, the seams diverge, the tiles themselves crack and become unusable.

Based on the foregoing, it seems that the answer to the question whether it is possible to lay tiles on wooden floors automatically becomes negative. But not everything is so sad. After carrying out competent preparation and some preparatory measures, the installation of facing ceramics on a base initially unsuitable for this becomes quite feasible.

The first step to success is revising and properly preparing the wood floor. The durability of the base itself and the service life of the ceramic flooring will directly depend on the thoroughness of the preparatory work carried out. The second stage in the construction of a stable base for laying tiles will be the use of additional materials, which will give the wood base the necessary qualities.

Checking and preparing wooden floors

Wooden flooring is extremely rarely even, with boards that are not affected by time, moisture and insects, so you have to start preparation with an unpleasant, time-consuming, but necessary dismantling. We'll have to take up the removal of a layer of old paint, partial replacement of the log and floorboard, perhaps - reducing the pitch of the bearing bars and correcting their position in the horizontal plane. The final goal of the preparation is the restoration of the wooden floor, the provision of ventilation between the structural elements, and, if necessary, the insulation of the base. Now everything is in order.

The sequence of stages of preparatory work

The first step in the preparatory process will be to remove the skirting boards (if any). After dismantling the wall decor, gaps will appear through which it is convenient to grab the first board from the wall and tear it off from the supporting bar. It is convenient to remove the board with a nail puller or a similar improvised tool. After dismantling the entire board, an inspection of the elements of the wooden floor structure is done. Boards and logs unsuitable for further use are discarded, at the same time choosing a suitable replacement.

The second stage of preparation for laying tiles on a wooden floor will be to remove old paint from boards suitable for further use. There are three ways to accomplish the task.

Impact on layers of old paint with special chemistry(solvent) sold in construction markets. The substance is very corrosive, therefore use protective equipment while working. Wetting the painted surface leads to the fact that the paint begins to exfoliate, after which it can be easily removed with a metal brush.
A grinder will help mechanically clean the wooden surface with a special wire attachment. The process is laborious and very dusty, so it is better to do this in an open space, without neglecting, again, protective masks, goggles, gloves. A respirator will not be superfluous for this work.
The third method is to strongly heat up the paint, as a result, it peels off and falls off on its own. A building hair dryer is used as a heating device, in its absence, an ordinary blowtorch.

The board and logs freed from old layers are treated with protective impregnations, after which they begin to install a new wooden floor. First, logs are installed and fixed in one horizontal level - it is important to pay special attention to this process, since the evenness of the boardwalk will depend on the correct position of the bars. If you plan to lay tiles on a wooden floor in a wooden house, it is advisable to insulate the floor structure so that the floor cladding is not too cold in winter. To do this, fill the spaces between the logs with expanded clay or oven ash.

Further along the lags, the updated board is re-sewn, attracting to the bars with self-tapping screws. If necessary, the flooring is putty (the differences between adjacent boards are leveled), after which the created wooden base must be finally leveled for direct laying of the floor cladding. How to put tiles on a wooden floor without taking additional care of the stability of the base? The top layer of the preparation cake will perform two functions at once.

The use of such recommended techniques allows the final alignment of the rough wooden base and give it additional stability:

the use of plasterboard cladding (GKLV);
leveling with OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood;
the device is relatively thin "wet" screed.

Let's consider these methods in more detail, because the quality of the base for installing tiles on a wooden floor in a bathroom, kitchen or hallway depends on their correct implementation in practice.

Plasterboard alignment

To carry out the process of final preparation of the floor surface for laying the tiles using the described method, you will need a moisture-resistant drywall 12.5 mm thick (wall gypsum plasterboard). Alignment with plasterboard sheets is appropriate if the floor is relatively flat, without sharp drops. Installation of gypsum plasterboard to a wooden base can be done in the following ways:

fasten with self-tapping screws;
stick on polyurethane foam;
glue on the foam, then additionally pull with self-tapping screws.

The first method is advisable to use with a flat surface of the wooden flooring. If there is a curvature of more than 3 cm per linear meter, it is advisable to use polyurethane foam used for gluing polystyrene boards - this will make it possible to level minor differences. In addition, the foam layer acts as a buffer between the unstable wood base and the plasterboard flooring. Some craftsmen recommend the third method, when the glued gypsum plasterboard is additionally fixed to the underlying wood with self-tapping screws.

The method of leveling a wooden base with drywall is good because it is fast and inexpensive. Additional insulation of the floor surface will also be a plus. But some experts say that the basis of gypsum plasterboard is fragile in such operating conditions.

Surface for plywood and board tiles

The tile does not fit on the wooden floor, therefore, to eliminate the deformation movements of the wood, a multilayer structure of the flooring is created, where moisture-resistant plywood or OSB are mounted on top. In the interval between the top layer and the rough flooring of wooden boards, a layer of buffer material is poured - expanded clay of the finest fraction (3-5 mm).

First, a layer of expanded clay bedding is distributed over the existing wooden surface and leveled as much as possible. One of the sheet materials is laid out on top. OSB boards or plywood must be laid out so that the seams in adjacent rows do not match. When the top layer of the floor cake is formed, the seams are putty and reinforced with fiberglass mesh. Gaps of 1-1.5 cm are left between the slab flooring and the walls and filled with polyurethane sealant. Due to the available gaps, the installation structure for the ceramic tiles is independent of the walls (floating) and the wooden floor (thanks to the buffer layer).

When leveling the surface with chipboards using an intermediate layer of expanded clay, backfilling of insulation between the logs can be omitted.

Wet alignment

This technology is the most costly, but gives the best result, as the result is a cement-based floating base that has the best affinity for mounting tile adhesive. As a material for the formation of the screed, leveling agents (packaged polymer-cement mixtures) or self-leveling mortars are used. Self-prepared cement-sand mortars can also be used, but at the same time, one should not forget about the qualitative strengthening of the basic wooden structure.

The step-by-step instructions for preparing the floor with a wet method looks like this.

Strengthening the base. Lags with this method of alignment and a floor roughing board thickness of 30 mm are placed in 40 cm increments. With a board thickness of 40 mm, a distance between the load-bearing beams of 55 mm is allowed. If, during the audit, the step of the wooden supports turns out to be large, it must be reduced to normal.
Decking formation. Boards are sewn along the lags with a gap of 5-10 mm between them (for ventilation). On top of the boards in a checkerboard layout, sheets of plywood or OSB are laid and screwed to the boards with self-tapping screws.
Waterproofing. A thick polyethylene sheet is used, with which the flooring is completely covered with an approach to the walls of at least 7 cm. If there are joints, they are carefully glued with tape.
Filling the screed. Ready mixes are used according to the manufacturer's recommendations. A self-prepared cement-sand mortar is poured and leveled according to pre-installed guide lines (beacons).

After the poured leveling base has dried, it is primed with an acrylic or polymer specialized mixture. The primed base is ready. Next, we will consider how to lay tiles on a wooden floor, prepared and leveled using one of the proposed methods.

Stages of preparation for facing work

For the successful implementation of tiling the floor surface with tiles, you need to prepare a set of the necessary tools, stock up on tile glue, calculate the number of tiles and decide on the method of laying the facing material.

The following tools will come in handy:

two spatulas - notched (comb) and ordinary, up to 100 mm wide;
drill mixer nozzle - needed to prepare polymer-cement glue;
suitable cutting tool for tiles - manual or electric tile cutter, grinder with diamond disc;
bubble building level - you cannot do without it when adjusting the position of individual cladding elements;
aluminum rule 1.5-2 m long - needed to control the evenness of the surface to be coated.

The consumption of tile glue will depend on the degree of curvature of the surface, the method of applying the solution. On average, when laying tiles on the floor, one package (bag) of dry mix (25 kg) is spent on facing 2.5-3.5 m2. This means that with a floor area of \u200b\u200b9 m2 in a room, 3 bags of polymer cement mortar will be needed.

A working adhesive solution is prepared like this.

Water is poured into a clean container approximately 1/6 of its volume.
A dry mixture is gradually poured into the water until a hill grows above the water surface.
The mixer thoroughly mixes the dry substance with water until a homogeneous solution is obtained.
After 5-10 minutes, the solution is mixed again, after which it is ready for use as intended.

Tile adhesive is a long-lasting solution. A freshly prepared working mixture can be used for 2-3 hours. This time is quite enough to work out a full container with a volume of 10-12 liters at a low speed of laying tiles on the floor surface, so there is no need to rush with the facing, even if this is the first experience.

To understand how to lay tiles on a wooden floor, thereby speeding up the workflow, it is better to first lay out ceramic tiles without gluing. Immediately you need to decide in what way the cladding is to be produced. Floor tiles can be positioned like this:

classically, when cladding elements form continuous longitudinal and transverse seams;
with displacement of tiles in adjacent rows (imitation of brickwork);
diagonal layout.

There are more complex options, when elements of different sizes are combined, patterns are formed. But this is the lot of professionals. A novice master should not climb into the jungle and dwell on one of the listed methods of forming a floor cladding.

Laying ceramic tiles

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 5 minutes

The base for the tile is most often a cement screed, but sometimes for various reasons it cannot be made. Can the tiles be laid on a wooden base in this case? And if so, how to do it, because wood and tiles are poorly compatible materials? The answer will be this: it is possible, but only on condition of careful surface preparation and adherence to a special technology. Let's find out how to lay bathroom tiles on wooden floors with your own hands according to all the rules.

The nuances of laying tiles on a wooden base

Wood is susceptible to deformation, it can crack and swell, and these properties do not at all contribute to the creation of a high-quality and durable tiled floor covering. Due to the lack of static, the glue will crack, the tile will lag behind the surface. Therefore, it is necessary to create an insulating damping layer or to give the base more rigidity.

When it comes to wooden floors in the bathroom, it is important to take care of protection from moisture, leading to the formation of mold and mildew, decay of boards, and deformation of wood. Ceramics is a reliable protection against moisture if the base is properly prepared and then the seams are properly processed.

After installing the tiles on a wooden base, you need to be prepared for the following problems, which can be eliminated only before laying the topcoat:

deflection of the surface with a step between the lags of more than 0.5 m or when the thickness of the subfloor is less than 20 mm;
lag of the tile from the base;
a creak that will not get rid of a layer of ceramics.

Let's analyze the process of preparing the base and laying the tile in stages.

Tile is not placed on the dilapidated floor, since the creak will not be eliminated, and the tiled floor will always be at risk.

The procedure for preparing a wooden base:

A complete dismantling with removal of coatings, finishing and subfloor is performed. Disassembly is time consuming, but must be done to obtain good results.
The base is leveled.
Disassembled floors are treated with a deep penetration antiseptic and fire retardant. The layers are applied several times with complete drying. If the floor is concrete, the surface must be primed and the cracks must be filled.

The sheet piles are disassembled and replaced if wear is found.

The distance between the logs should not exceed 0.5 m. The tree may not withstand the load and the floor will bend. If this distance is greater, it is necessary to add logs, the optimal step is 0.4 m.

If there are distortions, the structure is leveled with a screed or by using pads for the logs.

Waterproofing should be laid under the lags: roofing material, polyethylene or special films that do not allow moisture to pass through and prevent the formation of condensation on the surface.

The space between the base and the lags is filled with fine expanded clay. It serves as a heat and sound insulator, and also absorbs excess moisture. A 5 cm gap is left on top for ventilation. It is necessary to ensure the outlet of air from the underfloor space.
The basis for the tile is a board or thick waterproof plywood. Remove varnish or paint from old surfaces. A gap of 3-5 mm is left between the boards to compensate for deformations from moisture. The floor is leveled with a grinder, the gaps are putty.

Creating an insulating layer

The stiffness of the screed or tile adhesive is significantly higher than the wood used as the base. Therefore, between the tile and the floor, there is a layer that compensates for the movement of the wood, and also forms a waterproofing layer.

When using a special multifunctional film, the shock-absorbing layer should be laid with the firm side against the tiles, and the elastic side against the boards. For them to breathe, the material must pass steam and air, but block the penetration of moisture.

A damper against wood movement can be an elastic glue backing on which the tiles are attached.

Intermediate layer between tiles and wood: options

It is not recommended to lay tiles directly on the wooden floor. The floor covering can warp and crack. There must be a rigid base under the ceramic tiles, which is one of the following materials:

plywood, OSB;
self-leveling mixture;
gypsum fiber.

Preparing plywood and edged boards

When laying tiles on wood without additional stabilization of the base, a special glue with elastic properties that remain after hardening will act as a layer that will compensate for fluctuations in the parameters of the wood. Suitable compositions are Lacrysil, Liokol, Kreps, Ceresit. Sanding and filling with putty will be required before applying the glue.

Laying plywood or OSB boards on boards will increase the reliability of the base, although it is recommended to use the same epoxy-polyurethane composition as an adhesive.

Self-leveling floor

Dry self-leveling mixtures compatible with it are selected for wood. They lack casein, a substance that destroys the structure of wood, and there are fibrous additives to improve adhesion.

The perimeter is preliminarily pasted over with a damper tape to the height of the fill and tiles.
The prepared mixture is applied to the thoroughly cleaned floor. Layer thickness - 2.5–5 mm.

While the composition is liquid, air bubbles are removed from it using needle rollers.

The tile is laid on such a base in the same way as on a regular screed.

Dry screed (GVL)

First, gypsum fiber is laid on the boards, and tiles are mounted on it. There are no wet processes near the tree at all, which prevents it from getting wet. The ideal option is.

GVL slabs are laid on a flat subfloor flooring with displacement of adjacent strips in a checkerboard pattern.
They are connected to each other using locks with the application of glue or sealant to the protruding parts.
After laying each block, the gypsum fiber sheets are attached to the floor with self-tapping screws.
Before fixing the tiles, a primer is applied to the surface of the gypsum fiber board, which must be compatible with the composition of the glue.

Tile has long been considered a good facing material. It is used today in commercial and residential construction. There are many types of tiles.

It can compete with any coating with its patterns, textures, colors and other external characteristics. Its main advantage is durability, excellent fire-resistant and water-repellent properties.

Laying tiles on a wooden floor

The tile is most commonly used for bathroom or kitchen cladding. Craftsmen increasingly began to use it in work and living quarters. Is it safe to lay ceramic tiles on a wooden floor, how effective is it?

Many tile manufacturers declare that their products should not be placed on wood. The plank base does not guarantee strength and rigidity for the structure.

If a movable wooden floor begins to rot, the concrete screed on it will begin to crack in a situation when the boards begin to sag. Then the tiles will collapse, and cracks will begin to appear in the floor.

New techniques are now emerging to lay tiles on a wooden floor. In this technique, the quality of the preparation of the base plays an important role.

We prepare a wooden floor for tiles

At the beginning of the workflow for laying a new floor over the old, an important point is to correct the defects and shortcomings that the previous coating has. The key point when choosing a tile is a wooden base with a high level of rigidity and strength.

Floor preparation

The process of preparing a wooden floor can be divided into the following stages:

First, the entire wooden floor must be sorted out, the boards with flaws, rotten or cracked, are removed. The frequency of installation of lags should correspond to their bearing capacity. The weight of the floor together with the tiles will be increased several times.
After dismantling and bulkheading the floor, check its evenness. We use a level that can measure the horizontal lag. With such a check, you need to leave a gap of 10 mm between the rough base and the walls. These gaps are insulated with polyurethane foam. To give the floor resistance, expanded clay is used, which will increase the energy efficiency of the floor and will be an excellent sound insulator.
Then the wooden base is laid. You can use boards in good condition, plywood at least 12 mm thick. Such plywood is well suited for a tiled floor in the form of a base, it will be able to withstand its weight.
All remaining rough coating and logs should be treated with special chemical impregnations, which will clean them from rotting and fungus.
We fix plywood and boards, providing ventilation due to the presence of gaps between them, having a width of up to 5 mm.
Waterproofing made of bitumen, parchment or plastic foil is laid on top of the rough base.

We mount the base under the tiles

Laying tiles on a wooden base

There are three methods of installation under the base tile. Each of them has its own technology:

The first case is the use of a conventional screed, which is light and thin. For this, a metal mesh is used, attached with self-tapping screws to the subfloor using beacons. Then the cement screed is poured, its thickness is approximately 3 mm. Self-leveling screed can be used.
The second case involves the use of a base made of polyurethane adhesive with a liquid glass base. After drying, it forms an excellent moisture barrier. Such joints are adapted for laying the tiles on top of a wooden floor. It can support a lot of weight.
The third case is the installation of cement-bonded particle board, moisture-resistant gypsum fiber or drywall on the waterproofing. It is recommended to use from these materials - gypsum fiber. This material is distinguished by its insulating properties, ductility and greater strength. The flooring is attached to the rough surface with self-tapping screws. It is important to avoid overlapping floor elements and gypsum fiber joints. The seams of the base are glued with special means. Then the slabs or sheets should be covered with a primer until completely dry. This option is good when laying tiles on a wooden floor in a wooden house.

Laying steps

When the base for the tiles is prepared, it is necessary to check its horizontalness with a building level. Then the tiles are laid.

Laying steps:

Preparatory work.
Markup.
Sticking.
Styling.

The preparatory work consists in the correct calculation of the amount of material. Often they take into account up to 10% of the area reserve, in comparison with the total area of \u200b\u200bthe room. It is important that at this stage the purchased ceramic tiles are truly floor tiles and not wall tiles. These two types of tiles are similar to each other, but fragile wall tiles are not suitable for flooring. It also has no anti-slip effect.

Then the tiles should be laid out in the room over the entire area in order to evaluate the appearance of the future floor externally and determine the places for pipe holes and other communications.

It is necessary to check whether the height of the new floor allows the opening of the doors. Otherwise, you will have to change the height of the doors, outweigh them on higher hinges before installing the tiles on the wooden floor.

So that there is no air in the tile, it is soaked in water for 15 minutes. If the tile does not withstand this procedure and stains form on it, then the surface of the tile should be cleaned with a damp brush.

Marking and preparation of glue

It is necessary to make the markup in such a way that fewer cut tiles have to be used when they are placed near the walls. When laying diagonally, you will have to cut a lot of tiles, and laying along the wall is carried out, starting work from the opposite side to the entrance of the room.

If, according to the design decision, a special drawing is supposed, then it is necessary to act according to this plan. It is important to take into account the requirements for the optimal floor height, communications and other preparatory nuances.

Then the glue is prepared. The tiles are laid on the wooden floor using special cement glue. For its manufacture, use ordinary water, purchased dry powder and a certain amount of plasticizers.

Such mixtures have a short drying time (no more than 4 hours), so the glue must be used immediately or prepared in small portions. For a high-quality glue consistency and good styling, it can be mixed with a construction mixer.

The adhesive is applied in even stripes using a notched trowel. The application begins in the center of the room, in one of the corners. For each tile size used, a separate trowel size must be selected. The trowel teeth should be 30-40 times smaller than the width of the tile.

The glue dries up in a fairly short time (about 15 minutes), so it should be applied to about 1 square meter, and the tiles should be applied immediately.

Laying on a wooden floor

Features of glue for laying tiles on wood

When tiles are laid on a wooden floor, they should be pressed against the adhesive using a rubber mallet. The fit is sealed with light blows. Each surface area of \u200b\u200bthe processed edges must be covered with tiles. Then another area of \u200b\u200bthe room or the next square meter is processed.

First, whole pieces of tiles are laid on the wooden floor. Then they begin to fill the free space near the walls. The required tiles can be cut with a special tile cutter.

After installation, the floor is cleaned with a rag to remove the remaining glue. Wait for drying within two days, then the seam joints are closed. They are rubbed with fugues, which gives the floor a more aesthetic appearance.

Fugue is applied with a rubber trowel using diagonal movements. All seams must be filled, then the remains of the fugue removed. After 30 minutes, the fugue is dry, and the floor should be wiped with a damp cloth, and after 1 hour with flannel. Then the tiled floor on the wooden floor is ready.

The coating is completely identical to the tile, which is laid on a concrete screed. It is quite durable if no mistakes were made in the processing of boards, plywood and logs. Treated wood can serve for a long time as a base under a tiled floor. It also guarantees good thermal insulation.

Impregnation of a wooden floor, the use of special compounds and expanded clay improve the reliability of the tile covering, which eliminates its own shortcomings. Even the simplest floor will be an excellent base for laying floor tiles on wood.

Conditions that guarantee a long service life of the floor: quality materials and correct installation. The solution to the problem of how to put tiles on a wooden floor and its features are related to the properties of wood and room conditions.

Wood is a living material that is influenced by the environment, especially moisture. In conditions of high humidity, fungus, mold can form on it, and numerous cycles of wetting / drying deform it. For these reasons, it is believed that laying tiles on a wood floor in a home is considered undesirable. This is not entirely true, since all of the listed disadvantages are solved by using high-quality facing materials and a properly prepared base. If the wooden floor in the house has recently been laid, it is ideally recommended to wait for it to shrink for about a year, although even then an imperceptible deformation occurs.

If you put a tile on a poorly prepared surface or directly on wood without preparation, the integrity of the cladding will be violated, gaps form between the tiles and over time it will crack or peel off.

The purpose of the work is to correctly create and prepare a rough surface for screed and future finishing. It should be disassembled, processed and reassembled. A wooden floor is a complex structure, it can consist not only of floorboards, parquet boards, but also of a substrate, large load-bearing beams, lags. Before work, check the layers of the floor. If wood planks or parquet are laid directly on the screed, the work is simplified: just check the reliability, stability of the coating and putty the gaps.

If there are lags, beams, and, as a rule, in these cases, the flooring consists of sheet piling boards, you should disassemble it yourself and check the condition of all elements. The strength of such a floor cannot be determined only by the absence of loosening and creaking. If worn elements are found, they should be replaced.

Checking the condition of the wooden base

Is there a creak of foundation

A structure with a lag step of less than 0.5 m is not suitable for laying tiles: the tree will not withstand the mass of the screed and facing, the floor will bend, in such cases, simply add lags.

Aligning and handling elements

The level is used to check the evenness of the floor. If the structure is skewed, it is leveled. Logs are lifted with wedges from sawn timber scraps. If this is difficult to do, boards are sewn onto the logs, and then the excess is cut off. If the wooden floor without logs has distortions, they must be eliminated. It is removed, a new screed is made, or thin sheets of plywood and similar materials are placed under the floorboards.

Align the lags

All wooden elements are treated with special antiseptic agents that will prevent rotting and the formation of fungus. Use an impregnation specially designed for wet rooms. There are special mastics on sale for these purposes, they are non-toxic, odorless and are not destroyed by moisture.

Protection of a wooden base with an antiseptic

Expanded clay and installation of floorboards

After the impregnation has dried, they begin to fill in small expanded clay. It fills the space between the logs and performs the function of heat and sound insulation. The material is not filled up to the very edges of the logs, 5 cm is left for an air cushion so that air can circulate, removing condensation.

Expanded clay is used as a heater for flooring

Then, the floorboards are laid, this is the future rough base for the tiles. Thick waterproof plywood can be used in their role. It makes sense to use old boards. You need to remove varnish and paint from them with chemical washes, a building hairdryer, a polishing machine or a drill attachment with sandpaper.

We process floorboards

Installing the base under the tiles

Flooring and finishing of floorboards

Some experts recommend that you lay boards without a gap. This is not necessary: \u200b\u200bunder the influence of moisture and temperature in the bathroom, they can expand, despite the waterproofing. As a result, the wooden floor jars, the tiles come off. The gaps, just in case, should be 3–5 mm wide. The logs are fastened with galvanized self-tapping screws.

The next step is to putty all the holes, including those left over from the previous fastener. The subfloor is sanded or, if uneven, leveled with a sander. Technological gaps around the perimeter are filled with polyurethane foam.

Sub-floor grinding

The rough wooden base is ready, it is treated with a specialized latex impregnation that fills all the cracks, this is also an additional insulation from moisture. It is quite elastic, it is not afraid of minimal expansion of the wood. Apply two layers of impregnation, and then an additional layer of a special waterproof putty. It is easier to work with a floor without lags: it is disassembled, leveled, laid again, treated with impregnation, and a substrate is used for alignment.

Putty the holes

Sand the coating

We process by impregnation

Waterproofing device

It is very important to find a good waterproofing material. To do this, you can use thick polyethylene, roofing material, but it is better to purchase a special material that will not let moisture through and at the same time prevent condensation from forming. All the technology used is presented here.

Damper layer

A special damper layer will help to avoid deformations, penetration of moisture into the bathroom coating. Its qualities are the main feature of laying tiles on wood. The role of the interlayer is played by a special damping tape, which is sold in hardware stores. It acts as a shock absorber and compensator for possible wood movements.

This shock-absorbing insulating layer is bonded to the ceramic tile on the hard side, and its elastic bottom is laid on the wood, so that the maximum effect of compensating for possible movements is achieved. Wood still needs to breathe in order to exclude the formation of mold and mildew. The pores of the interlayer do not allow large drops of moisture to pass through, but air passes through them, providing the necessary ventilation and the absence of condensation.

Floor screed

It is important to correctly create a solid rigid base for ceramic tiles with your own hands. For tiles laid on a wood base in a bathroom, an ordinary cement screed is suitable, self-leveling mixtures, construction glue, gypsum mixtures are not used in this case. Our experts tell you in detail how it is done, so even a beginner will understand.

It is desirable that the screed is light, but even if it is heavy, the floor with a sufficient amount of lag will withstand it.

A cement-based screed is suitable

Types of solutions

Different materials can be used as a screed:

Standard cement screed. Its layer should be more than 3 cm thick. Under it, a special metal mesh should be placed on the subfloor and fixed with screws, on top of which the solution will be poured;
Polymer screed. Such solutions ideally level the surface, moisture resistant, not subject to cracking;
Universal construction adhesive. It is preferable to use it for the bathroom, it is based on liquid glass. A solution based on liquid glass can be made with your own hands, it is enough to mix the following ingredients: water, coarse sand, liquid glass (proportions 1: 2: 2);
Polyurethane adhesive. Such a screed will be plastic and compensate well for all movements of wooden elements, exclude peeling, cracking of the tile.

Cement strainer

Universal adhesive

Moisture resistant plasterboard and cement-bonded particleboards

Let's dwell on the features of these materials. They can also sometimes be used for screeds in bathrooms. Despite the fact that there is a lot of information about using them as a screed or substrate, experts do not recommend them for bathrooms. These materials are intended for rooms in a house with a low level of humidity. It should be noted that in the bathroom, in addition to humidity, there are sharp temperature changes, and this destroys such plates.

Dry screed method from cement-bonded particleboards

If, nevertheless, it is decided to use them in the bathroom, then they are stacked "at random", at an angle of 30 degrees towards the laying of the floor boards. There should be gaps between the joint seams, they are putty with a special drywall agent. The edges of the sheets of this material must be treated to keep moisture out.

We rub the seams between the tiles

The main nuance in laying tiles on a wood floor is high-quality insulation and a damper layer. When laid correctly, the tiles will last as long as the cladding on a regular concrete floor.

Video

If the question is being decided whether it is possible to put tiles on a wooden floor in a bathroom, kitchen or other room in the home, the properties of materials and their compatibility should be taken into account. In order for the tiling to serve for a long time, it is necessary to prepare a solid base that will not deform. For this reason, a concrete floor screed is best suited for this purpose.

However, this is not a hard limitation. If desired, it is permissible to use other materials (plank construction as a base or chipboards). However, in this case, it is necessary to observe the technology of laying tiles, porcelain stoneware.

Is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor

When combining ceramics and wood, moisture-resistant plywood or other wood-containing materials, a number of problems arise, in particular:

different indicators of thermal conductivity are noted, for example, wood retains heat better than tiles;
laying tiles on a wooden floor can cause rotting of the base, which is due to the ability of the tree to "breathe" (let air through), and ceramics, on the contrary, does not show such properties, which means that over time the process of wood destruction can begin, as a result the tile covering is deformed, since the floor will lose its static character;
the service life of a wooden structure is much shorter than that of tiles, which reduces the service life of the floor cladding;
wood is subject to linear expansion, which is another factor contributing to the destruction of the base, since if the rough boards change in size, lose their shape, along with them the integrity of the floor tiles is violated, since this type of material is more prone to cracking under the influence of tensile forces;
another factor that indicates the incompatibility of ceramics and wood is the need to equip a static rough base, which makes it possible to avoid the occurrence of all of the above consequences.

If, for some reason, only wood is considered as a material for arranging the floor and tiles for cladding, such a combination is permissible to use. However, in this case, it is necessary to provide suitable conditions in order to avoid the appearance of defects and pay special attention to the strength of the base.

So, when choosing a material (wood or chipboard), its quality is checked. There should be no rot, knots on the boards. Only beams of equal size are selected. As a result, the appearance of skewing of the tiles can be avoided. With the correct installation of the base, a sufficient level of static should be ensured.

In addition, it is possible to reduce the intensity of the negative manifestation of the difference in the linear expansion of materials. The desired result is achieved by using a suitable adhesive composition.

If you lay the tiles correctly, using glue containing polymer additives, you can do without a screed.

In a private house, ventilation is important, which allows air flows to circulate without delay. Violation of this process entails the appearance of dampness. If waterproofing is not done well enough, the tree will soon undergo destruction due to the developing process of decay. High-quality protection against moisture will help reduce the risk of this phenomenon. If all these recommendations are taken into account, the cladding will last a long time.

Foundation preparation

The wooden floor in a private house is characterized by a complex structure. Taking into account the difficulties described above, arising during the installation of the cladding, it is necessary to more carefully prepare the base. Before you make a screed or take up the flooring of the finishing coating, it is necessary to assess the condition of the boards and logs.

An external examination will not provide the required result, since the main flaws (cracks, mold, rot, etc.) may be hidden inside the structure.

Checking the condition of the coating

It is recommended to dismantle the boards covering the base. Such a measure will provide the desired result, provided that it is planned to lay tiles on an old wooden floor. If the base is new, and the cladding is mounted immediately after the completion of the work on the arrangement of the rough structure, there is no need for an additional check of the condition of the boards.

It is a mistake to believe that the absence of extraneous sounds when walking (squeaks, etc.), as well as a strong fastening of the boards, is a sign of the reliability of the base. Some problems can be identified only after opening the upper floorboards, for example: the presence of mold, non-compliance with the technology of laying the logs (increasing the distance between the beams). When the logs are mounted in violation of the norms (there should be 50 cm between them), the entire structure is shifted. This rule should be followed, as the surface of the finished floor should be flat.

Antiseptic treatment

Preparing a wooden floor requires processing the material. For this, special compounds are used to prevent rotting and destruction of wood, for example, antiseptics, fire retardants. It is advisable to assemble the base for the tiles from pre-treated lumber. At the same time, a special composition penetrates into any crevices, covers boards from all sides, reducing the risk of damage to wood due to developing mold.

Surface leveling

To lay the tiles, you need to make sure the design meets the requirements. For example, when installing logs, as well as in the process of laying the finished floor (boardwalk), it is recommended to constantly check the position of the boards using a building level.

The slightest distortion will lead to a reduction in the service life of the cladding.

Moreover, during the installation of the lag, it is permissible to put wedges to level the structure, since in this case there may be significant drawbacks of the subfloor, which is the soil cover or concrete screed. And the boardwalk is leveled after fixing on the joists. In this case, the improvement of the surface quality of the finished floor is carried out by the method of grinding. A special tool is used to cut off areas that protrude above the surface of the boards (knots, waves).

Sealing cracks and joints

If the general condition of the tree is normal, but there are several defects (cracks, cracks), you can avoid additional costs and eliminate leaks. This solution is used only when the design flaws are minor. This is done in order to prevent the growth of the gap. Significant defects are eliminated by replacing a separate (deformed) timber / board. Other disadvantages of the subfloor are hidden in different ways:

the use of a sealant, in this case, not only a cosmetic, but also a waterproofing effect is provided, since thanks to this composition, the probability of moisture penetration through the joints or between the wall and the base is reduced;
construction foam, sometimes foam fractions are added to the gap, but this measure is effective only in cases where the defect is large, then the first step is to fill the leak with foam, at the next stage, foam is sealed;
helps to remove minor defects oil-based paints and varnishes, it is pre-mixed with fine-fraction wood chips, as a result, a dense consistency is obtained, which not only can fill cracks, but also provides reliable protection against moisture;
slats and wedges are used to eliminate large defects, this measure allows you to reduce the consumption of related materials, to strengthen the structure without the need to replace its element, and this method can be used in combination with others (putty, sealant), with the help of wedges, a significant part of the leaks is filled, in the remaining space is laid with any suitable composition (more often - putty);
the use of a cord or tow: this method does not provide protection against moisture and does not contribute to an increase in the strength of the structure, however, it can be used to seal the board covering (the cord is often used to fill joints);
putty for wood: it is permissible to use only a special composition corresponding to the properties of wood, otherwise the adhesion will be low, and the material will not show waterproofing properties.

Coating replacement

The old boardwalk is being removed. At this stage, the position of the lag is checked, if there are irregularities, they are eliminated using wedges, additional boards with smaller dimensions. The new flooring is laid only after the gaps between the logs are filled with expanded clay. This measure contributes to the strengthening of the structure. In addition, fractions of expanded clay intensely retain heat in the room.

A gap of at least 5 cm is left between the bulk material and the boardwalk.

The floor in a wooden house is mounted with leaks, due to which the air circulation inside the structure is normalized. However, in cases where it is planned to lay tiles, the gaps between the boards can be minimal.

Surface leveling

If the above methods (grinding, replacing boards or beams) are impractical to use for some reason (there is no special equipment for removing a layer of wood, there is no possibility of installing new boards), you can consider other options based on the use of sheets of moisture-resistant gypsum plasterboard (gypsum board), chipboard (plywood, chipboard). You can also fill the screed with your own hands. This is the most suitable method, as it provides static and reliable coverage.

Plywood or chipboard

This option allows you to level and harden the surface of the subfloor. However, the installation of porcelain stoneware or tiles is not done over raw plywood. It should be protected from moisture contained in the adhesive. It is also impossible to put ceramic tiles on fiberboard / chipboard without a special coating.

Step-by-step instructions for finishing the chipboard material before installing the cladding:

Latex is applied to the treated sheet (but only on one side).
Without waiting for the composition to dry out, lay a paint net.
When the latex is completely dry, the mesh along with the plywood / fiberboard / chipboard sheet is fixed to the subfloor using self-tapping screws.
A mixture of several components is being prepared: liquid glass, sand, water (ratio 2: 2: 1).
The resulting composition is applied over the mesh, after which you can start installing the tiles.

Cement-bonded particle board (cement bonded particle board) withstands the effects of water better than others. This option is advisable to use when arranging the bathroom floor in a wooden house. It is suitable for toilets, kitchens and other areas where the level of humidity is often increased.

Before laying drywall on wooden logs, it must lie in the room for at least a day before starting work.

A multi-layer structure will allow to strengthen the structure and provide a static base. When installing the second layer, you need to take into account the need for bandaging the seams. This means that between the edges of the sheets of the first and second layers should not be less than 20 cm. For the purpose of laying the floor tiles, 3 layers of plasterboard are laid. They are attached with glue. Additionally, the sheets are fixed with self-tapping screws of sufficient length. After the putty, the tiles are laid on the cement board.

Dry screed

This method has the advantage of not contacting wood with moisture, which negatively affects the properties of such a material. In this case, ready-made gypsum plasterboard blocks (GVL) are used. They are made in the form of a multi-layer construction. Moreover, in such blocks, the dressing of the seams is taken into account.

The principle of laying products of this type is similar to how plywood is laid on a wooden floor, but there is no need to seal the joints.

Wet screed

Screed instructions:

Assess the condition of the log, boardwalk, and it is important to leave a gap of at least 1 cm between the base beams and the wall, which compensates for the linear expansion of the wood under the influence of moisture.
The distance between the floorboards is 1 cm, the thickness of the lumber is 4 cm, it is pre-treated with an antiseptic.
DSP is being laid, the distance between the plates is up to 3 mm, self-tapping screws are used to fix them.
A waterproofing material is laid on top.
A damper tape is laid around the perimeter of the room.
Concrete is being poured.
At the last stage, you can lay the tiles.

Waterproofing

If you plan to install the cladding in a bath or other room with high humidity, it is forbidden to use coloring compounds. Under the influence of moisture and temperature changes, the paint will crack and lose its properties. Available and effective options:

A mixture of liquid glass, sand and water. However, this option is used when laying tiles on chipboard / fiberboard or plywood (the method was described above).
Deep penetration impregnation. Due to its properties, this composition provides reliable protection from a humid environment, but the cost of implementing this method is the highest. The advantage is the ability to go straight to the installation of the tiles.
Roll insulating materials. Dense polyethylene, bituminous paper. These are short-lived options. Over time, the integrity of the coatings is violated, they lose their properties.
Sheet materials. The materials used to level the floor are also used as waterproofing: moisture-resistant plasterboard, concrete mortar. However, it is still necessary to lay dense polyethylene under the screed, which reduces the reliability of this method: due to regular linear expansion, the film is deformed, moisture penetrates through the leaks that appear.

Choosing the right adhesive

To lay porcelain stoneware or tiles on the floor, consider mixtures suitable for installing these materials. When choosing, it is important to consider the ability of the mixture to withstand the expansion of the boards. If you miss this moment, cracks will soon appear in the cladding.

To compensate for the linear expansion of the tree, a special tile adhesive is used. It must contain polymer additives. A high rate of elasticity is the second most important criterion after matching the type of decorative coating. You can glue the tiles to the concrete floor (screed over a wooden structure) using a cement-based compound.

other.

Preparation of tools and materials

To carry out work on wood, with cement (if it is planned to fill the wooden structure with concrete), waterproofing is being prepared. You will need:

roulette;
building level;
stationery knife;
hacksaw;
screwdriver;
self-tapping screws of the required length and in sufficient quantity (the calculation is performed taking into account the step when the fasteners are located at least 20 cm);
notched trowel;
crosses (limiters);
electric drill;
a sealant is used to protect the joints;
roll, coating or impregnating waterproofing (the choice is made taking into account the type of material to be coated);
sufficient wood;
antiseptic composition;
if required, damper tape (when screed is planned);
components for the preparation of concrete: cement, sand;
rule;
adhesive composition;
grout for joints.

Laying technology

The room is assessed for the presence of free zones, where the cladding is best viewed. It is recommended to start work from one of these areas, since there is no need to cut tiles. After preliminary laying of the cladding, the room is divided into zones, for clarity they are separated from each other with a coated cord. This will make it easier to work. The adhesive is prepared just before laying the tiles.

The adhesive is applied either to the floor or to the back of the porcelain stoneware / tile. Then the tiles are laid in accordance with the previously drawn up sketch. Cross-shaped limiters are installed between adjacent products. In the process, the position of the products is regularly checked using a level. When the glue is dry, it is recommended to grout the joints.

Underfloor heating installation in a wooden house under tiles

Electrical cables and water heating systems are installed in several different ways. A warm electric floor is equipped according to the following instructions:

The sub-floor is being installed.
Waterproofing is being installed.
Insulating material is laid between the lags.
Reinforcement mesh is fixed.
The cable is laid out on top, it should be fixed with clamps.
After that, the installation of the final floor is carried out, which can be used as chip sheets. In this case, it is better to glue the tiles to plywood with heat-resistant glue.
After that, you can lay out the tiles.

Water systems are connected to centralized heating, which is fraught with a number of difficulties, so this option is used less often. Installation features:

a special type of GVL or DSP boards (with protrusions) is used;
lay polymer flexible pipes, forming coils;
tiles are mounted on top of the warm floor.

you can extend the life of the coating if you go to laying the tiles after the sealant, screed and other materials used in the flooring have completely dried;
if rolled waterproofing is used, its edge is fixed with construction tape;