How to transplant adult bushes. How to transplant a shrub with leaves - a garden review. When is it better to transplant trees in spring or autumn Features of shrub propagation

There is no definite answer to the question of when to transplant a berry crop. Some gardeners argue that there is only one option - currant transplantation in the fall, when the leaves are absent, the movement of the juice slows down, and the plant is ready for wintering.

The need to transplant currants arises in the following cases:

In each case listed, the rules for transplantation and the procedure for working are similar.

Before answering the question of when it is possible to transplant currants, you should first choose a new place for the shrub. This berry culture loves sunlight and warmth, so shaded areas cannot be used. If there is little heat and light, the number of berries will decrease, and the bush will be susceptible to various diseases. It is not recommended to lower the roots of the plant into very moist soil - it will not grow. It is better to choose a moderately moist chernozem containing loam impurities, in a pit, if possible, make drainage.

This berry culture loves sunlight and warmth, so shaded areas cannot be used.

It is not desirable that the shrub is on the second tier. Its leaves are susceptible to diseases, and the fungus from most berry and fruit crops can harm the crop. Transplantation can be performed on partially sandy soil - the bush grows and develops better in it. Carefully dig up the place where currants will grow in the future, remove all debris, weeds and roots of old plants.

Currant transplant rules

If you decide to transplant a berry crop, carefully prepare for this process. The yield of the shrub depends on the correctness of your actions.

In the selected area, pits should be dug, placing them at a distance of one and a half meters from each other. Pour fertile soil, humus, potash, phosphate fertilizers or wood ash inside. The prepared soil should be nutritious and loose enough. To transplant red currants, it is advisable to add sand to the soil, and arrange drainage in the form of a small layer of rubble at the bottom of the pit. The size of the holes should be at least fifty centimeters wide and thirty deep, but it is better to focus on the size of the roots.

The size of the holes should be at least fifty centimeters wide and thirty deep, but it is better to focus on the size of the roots.

Berry culture needs to be prepared for transplantation: cut young shoots in half and cut old branches to the ground. The bush is carefully dug up and taken out of the ground. You do not need to pull on the shoots - this can ruin the roots or branches. If it was not possible to extract the plant the first time, it is dug in again for one and a half or two bayonets of a shovel.

Berry culture needs to be prepared for transplantation

If the bush is healthy, it can be removed along with a clod of earth and immediately transplanted. But if it is sick, carefully inspect the roots, remove damaged and dry ones, remove the larvae of pests and insects that live in the root system of the plant. After that, treat the roots with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Pour a large amount of water into the hole so that the soil mixture looks like a liquid substance. Immerse the shrub in the slurry and, holding it in weight, sprinkle it with dry soil five to eight centimeters above the root neck. Water again to compact the soil around the roots. The distance between the bushes should be at least one hundred and fifty centimeters so that they do not obscure each other. A transplanted plant needs regular care: regular watering, spraying and nutritious top dressing.

Pour a large amount of water into the hole so that the soil mixture looks like a liquid substance.

How to transplant currants in autumn

For all gardeners, the question is when is it better to transplant currants in order to quickly get a good harvest. In the northern regions, transplantation is advisable in the spring, when the snow melts and the temperature rises above zero. But if the bushes have already begun to grow, it is better to postpone the transplant until autumn.

The procedure requires some patience, since the shrub must shed its leaves, and the sap flow must stop in the shoots. For the middle band, the optimal period is mid-late October. In the north - two or three weeks later. If you move the bushes early, the currant can confuse the seasons and grow and throw out the buds. In winter, they freeze and weaken the plant. During dry and warm autumn, transplanted shrubs require constant watering.

Winter shelter is a must. Three buckets of old humus mixed with leaves of ornamental trees can be poured into the base of the bush. By spring, a fertile and loose layer of soil forms around the plant, in which you can arrange a watering bowl. Shrubs planted in autumn get used to a new place during the winter and take root to give a harvest in summer. If currant bushes are transplanted in the spring, they take root for a long time and give berries only after a year.

Transplant in the spring

During this period, rooted cuttings are transplanted - they are transferred to a permanent place from the nursery trench. If the cuttings were planted in the fall, in the spring it will be branches with two or three leaves.

If the plant was cut from cuttings in the spring, well-developed bushes with two or three shoots should form by the time of transplantation. They are very easy to transplant, but the plant must be dug up with a clod of earth to minimize the risk of damage to the roots. Shrubs transplanted in spring require proper care and good watering throughout the summer. Adult shrubs are transplanted as early as possible - in the middle or end of March.

In the summer, currant transplantation is not desirable, but possible. Adult bushes need to be dug up with an earthen clod - it should be as large as possible. For carrying to a new place, basins, buckets and boxes are used. They need to be selected taking into account the size of the roots. After planting a shrub in a prepared hole, water it thoroughly for several days.

For carrying to a new place, basins, buckets and boxes are used.

Container seedlings can be transplanted at any time of the year. It is important to provide them with good watering, top dressing and fertilizers using ammonium nitrate. Immediately after planting, the site must be mulched using peat, compost, humus or sand - they will help retain moisture. If the planting pits are prepared with high quality, top dressing will be needed only after a year.

Regardless of the time of the procedure, in transplanted bushes, it is necessary to cut off as much of the vegetative mass as possible, and leave two or three buds for reproduction.

If the planting pits are prepared with high quality, top dressing will be needed only after a year.

Otherwise, the plant will slow down and pick up pace for a long time.

Abundant watering is required. The first two weeks, you can safely arrange a swamp, that is, keep the roots in the water. The longer this process takes, the higher the probability of getting a rich harvest. But you can not keep the roots in water for more than three weeks, as they can rot.

In the first year, the crown should be properly formed so that the overgrowth is at a minimum, and all branches stretch upwards. Further care is carried out in the fall: all old branches are cut out, the bush is directed in the right direction.

Blackcurrant transplantation is possible in autumn, spring and even summer. It is the best time for such work - mid-October. Therefore, if you want to collect a lot of berries, follow the above recommendations.

A currant transplant may be required for many reasons. The most banal reason is moving to new possessions. But a change in the place of growth of a currant bush within one site is included in the mandatory list of actions for caring for it. If you do this at the wrong time or incorrectly, then there is a risk of spoiling or losing your favorite fruit bush. We will tell in the article all the rules of transplantation, we will give advice to novice gardeners.

Why is it necessary to transplant blackcurrant to a new place

What are the reasons for relocating a shrub to a new place, in addition to moving to another personal plot:

for the purpose of breeding the variety you like;
with some diseases, if the fight against them on the spot was not successful;
when overgrown bushes clearly interfere with the full development of each other;
change in the level of groundwater in the direction of decreasing the depth of their location;
shading that has appeared due to an increase in the crown of a nearby tree, overgrown grapes or a built object;
scheduled renewal of the shrub after a certain age;
transplantation to fertile soil with depleted and accumulated toxic waste products of this plant species.

General requirements for a new location

The plant, with a properly organized transplant, in most cases takes root well.

The rules for choosing a place for transplanting a bush are the same as for the initial planting. What does the currant bush like:

Sunny place. Shading is allowed only at lunchtime, when the sun's rays are very active.
Flat ground surface. Moisture is less retained on a hill and there is usually a strong wind effect, which creates unfavorable conditions for the development of shrubs. Lowlands are afraid of too high groundwater levels, which can lead to rotting of the root system.
Weed free land. This is especially true for grass with a superficial intertwining root system. Read also the article: → "".
Remote neighborhood with other fruit and berry crops, as it is quite susceptible to many diseases.
Soils with weak acidity or with a neutral pH level. Light loam is preferred. Otherwise, the desired composition and structure will have to be achieved with the help of fertilizers, drainage and mulching. (see →)

What season is better to choose for a transplant

Transplanting currants in autumn and watering around the soil

There is no categorical answer to the question about the most favorable time of the year for this season. Can win both autumn and spring transplant. The main criterion is the condition of the bush. Should it still be in a “dormant” state: in the spring before the buds appear and growth begins, in the fall after the leaves fall.

Tip #1 The choice of season should also be chosen depending on geography. In the northern regions, where winters are very frosty, it is better to transplant in the spring.

It is even possible to prepare new plant cuttings from autumn for further spring planting. In temperate climates, autumn is preferred. In case of urgent need, it is possible to transfer currants to a new place in the summer. In this case, to reduce stress and trauma to the plant, it is dug up with a large clod of earth, which remains on the roots during further planting. In the future, it is necessary to carefully cast the bush with water.

What are the features of the autumn transplant

Early, when the weather could be predicted even by natural phenomena, it was considered better to plant and change the place of plant growth in the fall. This is still relevant, but with a careful study of the forecast. Let's take a look at a few special things about autumn time.

What is important to remember	Why
Recommended transplant time end of September - beginning of October	The active growth of the plant ends, the processes of movement of the juice slow down, the foliage falls, so the effect of stress will be minimal.
In winter, the bush needs shelter	The weather is now unpredictable, even plants planted long before the expected frosts may not survive the winter. For example, frost can strike unexpectedly without the presence of a snow cover that protects the plant's roots from the cold. Shelter can be created by. You can also use covering material in the form of a film:,.
Currants planted in autumn can give a small harvest the next summer.	A timely planted plant will take root before the first frost and survive the adaptation process. Therefore, with the onset of the first heat, it will begin active growth and development.
Watering in winter	In the case of a dry autumn, the plant should be well watered before winter, this is done in October.

Tip #2 Do not use cut grass, branches or tops from vegetable plants as a covering material. There is a risk that rodents can take root here, which will destroy the roots of the bush.

What is the difference between spring currant transplant

Holding this event in the spring is considered rather forced. Although many gardeners believe that after winter, plants experience less stress from carrying out any manipulations with them, since there is no further exposure to low temperatures. Let's see what features a spring transplant of a shrub has.

Recommendations	Addition
Landing should be carried out as soon as the soil warms up a little. The approximate temperature regime of the surface layer of the earth should be + 5. You need to have time before the start of budding and active growth.	If you do not meet this period, then it is better to postpone the transplant until autumn or next spring. Or implement it with recommendations for the summer season.
It is best to replant in the spring the bushes formed by branches from last year or rooted cuttings that have been stored all winter in the cellar or greenhouse.	In this case, less time will be spent on rooting and the plant will grow faster. You can reduce stress by transferring a seedling bush without freeing the root from a clod of earth.
Abundant watering	If an autumn plant after transplantation is saturated with moisture all winter due to snow cover, then it is necessary to create the most acceptable conditions for survival with the help of irrigation. For the first time, transplanted shrubs are best watered with water at room temperature, or warmed up in the sun.

🎥 Video lesson "How to transplant a currant bush in autumn and spring"

Detailed tips and step-by-step instructions on how to transplant currant bushes in late autumn and early spring ⇓.

Preparing a new place for a shrub and transplanting itself

After choosing a place according to light parameters and indicators of humidity, preliminary soil preparation is necessary. If possible, it is necessary to start it 2-3 weeks before planting.

Preparing a new place for shrubs and digging the soil

What a full-fledged preparation of a new place should look like:

Dig and clear the ground of grass and weed roots. Level the topsoil.
Dig the required number of holes with a diameter of 40 * 40 cm for young bushes. To transplant an older plant, a hole is dug in order to place in it the entire clod of earth with which it will be dug. A certain depth of -30-50 cm is also observed, depending on the age of the plant. If you have to transplant several shrubs, you can dig one trench. But the distance between plants must be maintained at least 1-1.5 meters.

According to some new planting methods, a more dense location within 0.7 m is assumed. This is relevant if it is necessary to save space or during the subsequent formation of the bole.

If the soil is heavy, it is necessary to organize drainage. This can be done by placing some crushed stone, sand or shards on the bottom of the hole.
Approximately 2/3 of the pit is filled with earth mixed with compost and humus. From fertilizers, currant loves phosphorus, potassium, nitrogen. The rate of introduced minerals is calculated based on the recommendations indicated on the packages. If you make any shifts from these norms, then only in a smaller direction. But it is worth considering that potassium should be without the admixture of chlorine. Read also the article: → "". With increased acidity of the soil, ash, chalk, slaked lime, dolomite are introduced. It should be remembered that the ash is also rich in mineral composition, so industrial fertilizers are applied in smaller quantities.
It is important to properly dig a bush from the old location. To do this, the plant is dug in a circle to a depth of 40-50 cm. The diameter of the digging is maintained according to the width of the ground part of the plant. Carefully, picking up with a shovel, the bush, together with a clod of earth, is pulled out of the pit. Do not pull on the upper part, it is better to dig with a shovel if it is difficult to pull out. Otherwise, you can damage the root system.
Before planting, 1-2 buckets of water are poured into the prepared hole.
It is recommended to lower the bush into the planting hole along with an earthen clod. But if the plant is sick, the roots should be soaked for subsequent cleaning from the ground, or gently shake off. Inspect them with the removal of diseased and damaged parts. For disinfection, it can be treated with a solution of potassium permanganate.

For better rooting, the hole can be additionally watered with root before planting.

The bush descends into the very slurry and is covered with a dug-out layer of soil a few cm (about 5-7) above the root collar.
The ground part of the plant is processed with the cutting of dried and damaged shoots and shortening of the branches by about half.
The top layer is preferably mulch. It can be peat, fallen leaves or needles, special material, freshly cut grass.
1-2 buckets of water are poured again.

Since the fertilizers have been applied to the soil itself, there is no need to water the bush after planting. Otherwise, you can burn the root system. In the future, it is recommended to carry out the following processing to improve fertility: cutting weeds with a sharp bayonet device at a depth of 2-3 cm. This will inhibit the root system of the grass, and the upper part, drying and rotting, will create additional nutrition for the soil and serve as mulch.

Gardeners who do not welcome the introduction of purchased mineral fertilizers can be advised to feed with ash. It is recruited from under the conflagration of dried weeds and trees. For each currant bush in diameter, maintaining a distance of about 15-20 cm from the shoots where the feeding roots are located, about half a liter jar is added.

The procedure is carried out in the spring, since the application of any mineral fertilizers in the autumn further goes deeper along with melt water, and becomes inaccessible to the root system. And in the winter season, the plant is in a dormant state and does not need additional nutrition.

Frequently asked questions about transplanting blackcurrant

Question number 1. Is it possible to transplant 3-5 year old currant bushes or is it better to cut them?

Can. You need to dig them out with a large clod of earth and drag them on a substrate to a new landing site. It is good to deepen and cut off the upper part. Organize abundant watering after transplantation.

Question number 2. Is it possible to transplant young seedlings in place of uprooted old currant bushes?

It is advisable to leave this place for other cultures that are not similar to it in classification. And for new seedlings, it is better to take a new place. This will help to avoid overworking the soil and infection with the diseases that exist in this place, which are characteristic of this crop.

Currant that needs transplanting

Question number 3. What plants will be favorable in the neighborhood for blackcurrant?

Around the bush or at a short distance, you can plant onions and garlic. They will protect the bushes from many pests and diseases. But gooseberries, raspberries, red currants are best placed away. It is also not recommended to plant it under fruit trees.

Question number 4. Is it necessary to spud bushes transplanted in autumn?

After planting, you can spud transplanted bushes for greater insulation. But in early spring it is necessary to level this embankment. Since the plant that has begun to grow will begin to take lateral roots into the ground sprinkled on the trunks. During the summer season, the upper raised layer of soil will dry out, which will lead to the death of surface roots or their further freezing in winter.

Question number 5. Is it possible not to cut off the ground part of the transplanted bush?

Mistakes that happen when transplanting blackcurrant

Mistake #1. Transplanting a bush to the same depth at which it was in its last place.

When planting a plant in a new place, it is necessary to deepen it 5-7 cm more than in the previous place.

Mistake #2. Little attention to watering the plant.

After transplantation, the shrub needs a large amount of water to restore the plant and improve the subsequent yield. It should not be in a puddle, but the ground should always be damp.

Mistake #3. Applying a large amount of fertilizer to achieve better plant growth and yield.

Excess fertilizers applied in excess of the norms indicated on the packages will not improve the survival of the plant and the yield. They can only harm the plant.

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In case of unsuccessful planting, when redeveloping the territory, it is sometimes necessary to transplant grapes to a new place. This is a very plastic culture, adapting well to new conditions. Therefore, with some effort, even an adult fruit-bearing plant can be moved and its yield can be maintained.

When can grapes be transplanted

There are no universal dates when it is better to transplant grapes. The gardener needs to focus on his region and specific climatic conditions.

The optimal time for planting and transplanting is autumn and spring. In autumn, work begins after leaf fall and continues until frost. In the southern regions, where the soil does not freeze in winter, it is permissible to plant during long thaws in January-February.

In the spring, they wait for the soil to thaw. It is important to have time to transplant before the eyes open. In spring, the soil is well saturated with moisture, which plants use for their development.

Important! The earlier the bushes are planted (if conditions are favorable), the better they will take root.

When deciding how to properly transplant grapes without loss to the crop, the gardener must take into account not only the time of the operation, but also the age of the plant.

Methods for transplanting different ages of adult grape bushes

The first three years of life, a young plant is considered a seedling. During this period, he is actively forming roots. With age, the old roots thicken, the life potential of the grapes and its ability to regenerate decreases. This means that the older the plant, the worse it takes root in a new place. Nevertheless, even adult bushes 7-10 years old are able to produce good yields after transplantation.

How can I transplant an adult grape bush:

with a clod of earth;
with an open root system.

For adult bushes, the first method is optimal - with a clod of earth and an intact root system. However, this is not always feasible without special equipment.

So, depending on the type of soil and climate, the root system of a grape bush penetrates to the following depth:

in a humid cool climate - 20-40 cm;
in the south - 40-120 cm;
on sandy soils - 1.5-3.5 m;
on rocks in the southern regions - 3-5 m and more.

Thus, the task of the grower during transplantation is to preserve the maximum of roots. The older the plant, the larger the earthen ball will be.

One-year-olds, two-year-olds, three-year-olds

Young seedlings are planted from the school to a permanent place at the age of 1-3 years. They can be both with a closed root system and with an open one.

In the specialized literature on viticulture, it is advised to do this:

Select 1-2 most developed shoots on the seedling, remove the rest.
Cut the selected shoots, leaving 2-3 eyes on each.
Remove all roots located above the first or second node from the heel. This should stimulate the development of the main heel roots.
Shorten the calcaneal roots to 20-25 cm when planting in holes and up to 5-7 cm under a hydraulic drill.

Features of transplanting grapes at different times of the year

When planning how to transplant grapes to another place in autumn or spring, the gardener proceeds from the climate of the region and the type of root system of planting material (closed - ZKS or open - OKS).

Transplanting seedlings in autumn

With an autumn transplant, the undoubted advantage is that in the spring the bush starts growing early and does not lag behind the rest in development. This means that in the first year after the operation, you can get a small harvest.

If you plan to transplant grapes from ZKS in the fall, be prepared that the plant will not have time to take root in a new place and will not survive the winter. To avoid this, you need to carefully mulch the soil around the seedling and make a more solid shelter.

As an option, in areas with little snowy winters and possible frosts, it is recommended to dig seedlings with ZKS in the fall, and plant them only in the spring, organizing a cool winter for them in the basement or cellar. Bushes with ACS are transplanted in the fall.

Differences in transplanting in spring and summer

With a spring transplant, it is likely that the bush will get used to new conditions for a long time, it will start growing late and, as a result, the vine will not have time to mature. Harvest with this method of transplantation will have to wait longer.

Important! Planting vegetative grapes in unheated soil will most likely lead to the death of the root system, and hence the entire bush.

The undoubted advantage of spring planting is that the pit for the plant is prepared well in advance, even in summer or autumn. During the winter months, all the fillers brought into the pit are compacted and create a more uniform soil.

In summer, transplanting adult bushes is undesirable. During the growing season, the plant will spend a lot of energy on restoring the roots to the detriment of the development of the ground part and may wither. Young vegetative seedlings with a closed root system, which can be transplanted without damaging the roots, are moved to a new place in the summer.

How to transplant grapes

In general, the procedure for transplanting grapes to a new place does not differ from the usual planting. Only one operation is added - excavation.

How to dig bushes

The older the plant, the harder it is to dig it out with the entire root system. Procedure:

They dig a bush at a distance of about 50 cm from the trunk, while trying not to damage the roots of neighboring plants.
Carefully expose the roots. If they go deep into the ground, cut off. At this stage, the main thing is to save the heel and the main roots coming from it.
If there is a physical possibility, they grab a bush right with a clod of earth and transfer it onto a sheet of metal, a tarpaulin or into a wheelbarrow, with which they drag the plant to a new planting site.
So that the lump does not fall apart, you can wrap it with a piece of cloth and bandage it.
If the bush will be transplanted with an open root, gently shake the ground on the roots with your hands or a stake, completely exposing them.

Novice gardeners doubt whether it is necessary to water the plant before transplanting. Watering contributes to the fact that the earth does not crumble and keeps a lump. If you want to clean the roots, you do not need to pre-water the bush.

An interesting way to dig a bush with a hydraulic drill:

The soil around the bush is well worked out with a hydraulic drill to the state of slurry.
Then all the slurry is scooped out, leaving the roots intact.
If there is no hydraulic drill, the bush is dug in and watered until the soil is saturated.

Planting material preparation

Before or after transplantation, regardless of the age of the bush, the aerial part must be shortened. 2-3 annual shoots are left on the plant. They are cut into 2-3 buds closer to the beginning of the sleeve. If it is planned to update the entire aerial part, it is cut into a black head.

Planting grapes in a new place

A new place for the bush is prepared in advance, at least a month in advance, and even better, six months in advance. The depth of planting and its method depend on:

climate,
type of soil on the site,
the possibility of shelter for the winter,
snow depth and other factors.

Traditionally, in industrial vineyards, bushes are planted in pits or under a hydraulic drill. The latter method is only suitable for young seedlings with a shortened root system.

in the European part - 45-50 cm;
on irrigated fertile soils of Central Asia - 55-60 cm;
on sandy soils - 60-65 cm.

However, in the amateur viticulture of Russia in different regions, their own methods have been established:

in the south, where the soil warms up well and dries quickly, they are planted in large, pre-fertilized pits to a depth of 40-50 cm;
in the Moscow region, the method of planting in raised ridges to a depth of 30-40 cm is gaining popularity;
in areas of northern viticulture, for example, in the Urals, grapes are planted in trenches to provide bushes with good shelter in winter and quick warming in summer.

In areas with poor soil (sand, stone), deep pits 1x1x1 m are made for planting, which are filled with plant residues, rotted manure or humus, and mineral fertilizers. On black soil, there is no such need. There it is enough to dig a hole according to the size of the root system and plant a seedling to a depth of no more than 40-45 cm.

Thus, there is no universal landing scheme suitable for all regions. Each grower chooses for himself the one that meets the conditions of his site. When transplanting an adult bush, the same rules apply as for a normal planting, which we will discuss below.

Instructions for transplanting grapes

With a clod of earth and a root

The sequence of operations:

The landing pit is prepared in proportion to the earthen coma.
Pour a couple of buckets of water into it.
Lower the bush into the hole and remove the wrapping fabric.
The gaps between the earthen clod and the walls of the pit are gradually covered with earth, periodically watering.
When the pit is completely covered with earth, a near-trunk circle is formed and the bush is again abundantly watered with the addition of a root growth stimulator.

Open root system

Boarding order:

A hole is prepared in advance with a depth of 15-20 cm more than the length of the underground stem of the seedling and watered with water.
At the bottom, 10-25 cm of fertile soil, mixed with humus and mineral fertilizers, are poured.
Before planting, the roots of the seedling are cut to 25-30 cm and dipped in a creamy mash (2 parts of clay for 1 part cow dung).
A mound is made in the center of the pit, on which a seedling is placed.
The roots are spread along the slopes of the mound.
A pit with a seedling is covered with earth to half and watered.
Cover with earth to surface level.
Form a near-stem circle and water abundantly.

Important! In the zone of shelter viticulture, the base of the shoots after planting should be 1-2 cm below the soil level.

Errors when transplanting grapes

If the seedling does not take root and grows poorly, the features of transplanting adult grapes may not have been taken into account.

Rcommon mistakes:

Late planting in spring. The plant needs time to adapt to new conditions and restore the roots. In addition, in spring the soil dries out quickly and a seedling with ACS may not have enough soil moisture to start growing.
Early planting in spring. In cold soil, the roots of a vegetative seedling with ZKS may die off.
Too much root pruning. Having lost heel roots, an adult bush cannot restore them and receive proper nutrition.
Landing in a dry hole. A dry layer between the roots and soil moisture prevents the beginning of root growth.
Attempt to collect a full-fledged crop in the year of transplantation. Excessive load of the bush leads to the fact that the plant spends its own resources without getting enough nutrition.

Care of grapes after transplantation

In the first year after transplanting to a new place, the bush needs increased care and attention.

Caring for transplanted grapes

We must be prepared that the plant will not immediately recover and will give full yields. The inflorescences formed in the first year are cut off completely so that the bush directs all its forces to restore the roots.

watering

The bush is watered in the same way as the rest of the vineyard: by land or through a pipe. Choosing the second method, gardeners should take into account the depth of the root layer. For example, if the roots do not penetrate further than 40 cm, and the pipe is dug deeper into the ground, the bush does not receive water when watering.

Depending on soil moisture, 3-5 waterings are carried out per season, every 2 weeks in dry weather and 3-4 weeks in wet weather. In early varieties, watering is completed in mid-July, in late varieties - in mid-August.

Every 15-20 days after rain or watering loosen the soil around the bush. This keeps the soil from drying out and allows air to flow to the roots.

top dressing

Fertilizers filled in the pit during planting are enough for the first 2 years. During this period, additional feeding is carried out if signs of a lack of elements are visible.

Frost protection

Bushes are prepared for winter in different ways, depending on the region of cultivation:

cover the ground with a mulch layer;
spud;
protect the bushes with non-woven material;
cover seedlings with soil.

Disease and pest control

During the season, several sprays of Bordeaux liquid from mildew are carried out. In general, the transplanted bush is treated in the same way as the rest of the vineyard.

Important! It is advisable to use reduced doses of drugs on a weakened bush.

Results

Adult grape bushes are able to take root in a new place at almost any age. The gardener himself must decide on the feasibility of transplanting due to the large labor costs of the operation. If you want to save a valuable variety, before transplanting, it is recommended to prepare cuttings from a bush or propagate it with branches.

Today, perhaps, it is impossible to find a summer cottage where currants would not grow. Black, red and beauty won the love of gardeners with delicious fragrant and healthy berries. In order to get a good harvest every year, the bushes in the berry bush need proper care and timely reproduction of the varieties you like.

In some cases, it becomes necessary to transplant currants:

if neighboring overgrown trees or shrubs begin to interfere with the bushes;
if the bush is outdated and requires rejuvenation;
if you need to transplant rooted cuttings or shoots;
if the land under the adult bush is depleted and the plant is sick from a lack of nutrients.

In each of the above cases, the rules for transplanting currants and the order of work are the same.

Currant transplant rules

A currant transplant is preceded by the choice of a place for a future bush or berry. Currant loves lighted warm areas and does not tolerate darkening, so the bushes should be located away from trees, fences and outbuildings. The site for the future berry plant is dug up to remove weeds and roots of old plants.

On the selected site, pits are prepared in 2-3 weeks at a distance of 1-1.5 meters from each other. Fertile soil, humus (compost), potash, phosphate fertilizers or wood ash are poured into the pits. The prepared soil should be loose and nutritious. For red currants, it is advisable to add sand to the nutrient mixture, and lay a small layer of rubble for drainage at the bottom of the pit.
It is desirable to keep the size of the holes at least 50-60 cm wide and 30-40 cm deep, but it is more advisable to focus on the size of the roots of currant bushes.
A transplanted bush requires careful preparation. Young shoots are cut in half and old branches are cut to the ground. Currants are dug carefully and taken out of the hole. You do not need to pull the plant by the shoots - you can damage the roots or branches. If it is not possible to extract the currant the first time, it is dug in a circle again 1.5-2 bayonets of a shovel in depth.
If the bush is healthy, then it can be dug up with a clod of earth and transplanted. If the bush is sick, you need to carefully examine all the roots, remove damaged or dry ones, remove the larvae of pests and insects living in the root system of plants. Treat the roots of plants with a solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate).
Pour enough water into the pit so that the fertile mixture turns into a liquid substance. It is necessary to immerse the bush in the slurry and, holding it in weight, sprinkle it with dry soil 5-8 cm above the root neck of the bush.
Water the bush again so that the earth is compacted around the roots.

Transplant in autumn

All gardeners are tormented by the question: when is it better to transplant currants in order to get a full harvest as early as possible?
In the northern regions, it is advisable to transplant currants in the spring, when the snow melts and the temperature is above zero. But if the bushes have already begun to grow, then transplanting to a new place should be postponed until autumn.

Autumn transplantation requires patience, as the bush must shed its leaves, and the sap flow will already stop in the shoots.

For central Russia, the most favorable period is mid-late October.
In the northern regions, the deadlines are shifted by 2-3 weeks. If the bushes are moved too early, the currant can “mix up” the seasons and grow, throwing out buds that freeze in winter, weakening the bush. With a warm and dry autumn, transplanted bushes require regular watering.

Winter shelter in this case is mandatory. You can pour 2-3 buckets of old humus mixed with leaves of ornamental trees into the base of the bush. Then, by spring, a fertile layer of loose soil forms around the bush, in which you can build a watering bowl.

Currant bushes, planted in autumn, adapt to a new place during the winter and take root in order to give a harvest in the summer.

Currant bushes transplanted in the spring take root for a long time, adapt and produce a crop only after a year. Around the bush in the fall, you can plant garlic cloves. When it rises in the spring, cut the feathers by 0.5-1 cm every 3-4 days, then the smell of garlic will repel pests.

Transplant in the spring

In the spring, rooted cuttings are usually transplanted, that is, they are transferred from the nursery trench to a permanent place in the berry. If the cuttings were planted in the fall, then in the spring they will be twigs with 2-3 leaves from the buds left above the ground.

Sooner or later reforms begin in the garden. Something is writhing, and something is urgently moving to a new place. How to transplant shrubs and let them survive the move with minimal harm to health? By the way, moving can even be beneficial if the soil is depleted and yields have declined.

How to transplant a currant bush

It is better to transplant currants in the fall, since in the spring the buds start growing early and you may not have time to transplant. It is possible to transplant in autumn until the very frosts, and often after them, if the weather is not colder than -5 ° C.

Two to three weeks before transplantation, holes are dug under bushes with a diameter of 50-60 cm and a depth of 30-40 cm. They are placed at a distance of at least 1-1.5 m from each other. A mixture of fertile soil and fertilizers is poured into each pit: one bucket of compost or humus, 40 g of potassium sulfate and 150-200 g of superphosphate.

The bushes are prepared for transplanting by cutting off all the old branches and shortening the young ones by half. A currant bush at a distance of 30 cm is dug to a depth of two bayonets of a shovel, then the central roots are cut and the bush is taken out of the pit with a clod of earth.

Three or four buckets of water are poured into the prepared seat. After it is absorbed, the plants are placed on a planting mound and covered with fertile soil. Barren scatter in the aisles. The final touch is abundant watering.

Gooseberry and wild rose bushes are transplanted in the same way.

How to transplant a vine bush

If seedlings are best planted in the spring, then adult bushes move to a new place in the fall. It is necessary to be in time before the onset of frost, as they can damage the roots of the grapes.

Two sleeves are left on the bush and each one has one young vine, which is shortened to two or three eyes. After that, they retreat from the bush 50 cm and dig the bush in a circle on two bayonets of a shovel. Then they cut off the central roots and remove the plant from the pit.

One or two buckets of water are poured into a pre-prepared pit and a planting mound is poured from fertile soil. Bushes are planted so that young vines are only slightly above the soil level. This will rejuvenate the bush.

Everyone falls asleep with earth and compacts it well, after which everything is watered abundantly. In the first year, all inflorescences are removed from the bush. On the second - a third of the inflorescences. Only then the plants will get stronger and begin to bear fruit normally.

How to transplant a raspberry bush

Raspberries quickly deplete the soil, so they try to transplant it to a new bed every five to six years. Like other shrubs, it is best to endure in the fall. So that the yield does not decrease, plant it after cabbage, cucumbers or tomatoes. Definitely in a sunny spot.

The first step is to prepare a place where raspberries will grow by removing weeds and digging up the soil. The diameter of the pit is 40 cm, the depth is 30-40 cm, the distance between the bushes is 50 cm. 40 g of potassium sulfate and 70 g of superphosphate can be added to each pit. But in order not to burn the roots, it is better to apply these fertilizers later - in the summer - in the form of dressings.

For planting, the most powerful plants with stems of at least 1 cm in diameter are selected. They dig them up with a clod of earth and transfer them to a new place. After planting, the plants are pruned, leaving two full-fledged buds above the soil level. The bushes are set in the center of the pits and covered with earth. It is important not to bury the plant when planting. What is normal for grapes and currants is undesirable for raspberries. After planting, the plants are watered and mulched with humus.

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How to transplant shrubs.

If you are bored with the familiar look of your garden, you can always make interesting changes by transplanting ornamental shrubs to a new place. And the reason may be - just a change of mood or if the plant has grown and you have found a new cozy place for it in your garden.

The transplantation of "large-sized" planting material has been practiced in world horticulture for a very long time. The need to transplant shrubs appears if you want to change the appearance of the garden or transplant the plant to a more suitable place for it. In addition, shrubs are transplanted if they have grown strongly and there is not enough space for them in this area, however, I already said this at the very beginning.

The time is recommended to transplant in spring or autumn when they are at rest. Plants transplanted at this time take root better. In the spring they are transplanted after the soil opens, and in the fall at such a time that they have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. Before transplanting shrubs with curly shoots, tie them with braid or put a bag on the shrub. It is easiest to transplant shrubs that grow in the garden in one place for no more than a year. Otherwise, the transplant will be very complicated. If possible, refrain from transplanting adult shrubs, as such specimens do not tolerate transplantation well and take root worse.

Shrubs take root well in a new place if you prepare them for transplanting. Transplant them at the right time and provide them with proper care.

We select a suitable site in the garden. This place must meet all the necessary requirements for both light and soil characteristics. Before planting, we carry out abundant pruning. If the location where you want to transplant the shrub is close to where it currently grows, then the plant can be moved without packing its roots. If you need to move the bush a considerable distance, then I recommend packing its root ball in a dense cloth. This will help us not to lose the soil that forms a lump on the roots of the plant, and it will also help to store the shrub for a while if you cannot plant it right away.

To prepare for transplanting shrubs, I advise you to approach this issue with all responsibility. A month before transplanting a shrub, use a shovel to draw a circle around it. Before transplanting, we water the shrub well so that it is easier to dig it out, and the roots are saturated with moisture. Open the root ball from all sides or carefully dig it out, being careful not to damage the roots. Then we dig a landing hole at the proposed site for the future planting of the shrub. The pit should be twice as wide as the root ball itself. The earth at the bottom of the landing pit will need to be loosened. We plant our shrub at the same depth as it grew before transplanting. Form a watering circle and water the plant. Also water the plant when the soil dries to a depth of 5 cm. After watering, mulch the soil with a thick layer of suitable mulching material (cm 100 mulch).

In the spring, a few weeks after planting, new shoots will appear on the bushes. At the same time, the plant develops new roots. In order for the plant to develop well in the future, feed it. You can add liquid fertilizer to the water and carry out root dressing. If you transplanted a bush to a windy place, take care of a reliable support, we install the support in such a way as not to damage the roots of our shrub. As soon as the shrub takes root, the support can be removed; for the rooted shrub, the wind is no longer a hindrance.

And to sum it up: the ideal time to transplant is early spring, as soon as the soil opens up, before the plant has started to grow. Plants take root faster with regular watering and cool weather. In areas with a cold climate and in areas with clay soil, it is better to plant the plant in the spring. We transplant in the autumn, this is an alternative time for transplanting shrubs. It is very important to plant the plant at such a time that they have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. If it rains in the fall, repot the plants after the soil has dried out. That's all the secrets of a good shrub transplant. Good luck to you.

When is the best time to repot trees and shrubs? Consider how and when you can transplant fruit trees, ornamental trees and shrubs, as well as conifers.

The end of summer - the beginning of autumn is a good time for planting and transplanting plants, both fruit and ornamental. In order for new plants to take root well and successfully overwinter, you need to follow some regulations.

Plant plants with an open root system from the first decade of April to the second decade of May and from the second decade of August to the first decade of September. When planted at this time, the plants have time to take root and overwinter well.
When planting, cut off inflorescences and part of the leaves from plants, especially large leaf blades, to prevent excessive evaporation and loss of moisture.
Digging and landing in a new place is desirable to carry out in one day.
After planting, transplanting, the plants are watered and treated with growth stimulants.
Do not plant plants together with the container, carefully remove the container without destroying the lump.
Do not deepen the root neck of trees and shrubs, especially grafted forms.

When is the best time to transplant fruit trees?

Fruit trees are best planted and transplanted at the age of 1 - 5 years. If older plants are transplanted, then planting is carried out with a clod of earth, approximately equal to the diameter of the crown, packed in a chain-link mesh or burlap, as well as using special equipment. This technology is called "landing large-sized".

It is carried out in late autumn, winter and early spring periods, with the exception of summer.

When planting and transplanting fruit plants with an open root system, it is necessary to maintain high humidity in the area of the root system so that small overgrown roots do not dry out. The root system needs to be shortened by about 1/3 so that the roots develop better. When transplanting fruit, it is also necessary to prune the aerial parts in order to balance the crown and root system.

When planting plants in containers, it is important not to destroy the lump and not to deepen the root collar in order to avoid the formation of a large number of shoots.

When is the best time to transplant ornamental trees and shrubs?

The highest survival rates are in plants with a closed root system. They can be planted at any time, with the exception of winter.

When planting plants with an open root system, it is necessary to slightly trim the aboveground and underground parts. After that, the plants need regular, but moderate watering. It is advisable to carry out 2-3 sprayings of "Epin" or "Zircon" on the leaves with an interval of 7-10 days - to relieve post-transplant stress in plants. In the first winter after planting for all crops, a light
shelter so that the plants overwinter better and take root.

When is the best time to transplant conifers?

They can also be planted at any time, provided that the plants are grown in containers. With an open root system, coniferous plants are practically not sold, since their survival rate is extremely low. When planting, the plants are watered under the root and treated with stimulants containing iron and silicon - Ferrovit and Siliplant.

In some cases, it becomes necessary to transplant currants:

if neighboring overgrown trees or shrubs begin to interfere with the bushes;
if the bush is outdated and requires rejuvenation;
if you need to transplant rooted cuttings or shoots;
if the land under the adult bush is depleted and the plant is sick from a lack of nutrients.

In each of the above cases, the rules for transplanting currants and the order of work are the same.

Currant transplant rules

On the selected site, pits are prepared in 2-3 weeks at a distance of 1-1.5 meters from each other. Fertile soil, humus (compost), potash, phosphate fertilizers or wood ash are poured into the pits. The prepared soil should be loose and nutritious. For red currants, it is advisable to add sand to the nutrient mixture, and lay a small layer of rubble for drainage at the bottom of the pit.
It is desirable to keep the size of the holes at least 50-60 cm wide and 30-40 cm deep, but it is more advisable to focus on the size of the roots of currant bushes.
A transplanted bush requires careful preparation. Young shoots are cut in half and old branches are cut to the ground. Currants are dug carefully and taken out of the hole. You do not need to pull the plant by the shoots - you can damage the roots or branches. If it is not possible to extract the currant the first time, it is dug in a circle again 1.5-2 bayonets of a shovel in depth.
If the bush is healthy, then it can be dug up with a clod of earth and transplanted. If the bush is sick, you need to carefully examine all the roots, remove damaged or dry ones, remove the larvae of pests and insects living in the root system of plants. Treat the roots of plants with a solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate).
Pour enough water into the pit so that the fertile mixture turns into a liquid substance. It is necessary to immerse the bush in the slurry and, holding it in weight, sprinkle it with dry soil 5-8 cm above the root neck of the bush.
Water the bush again so that the earth is compacted around the roots.

Transplant in autumn

Autumn transplantation requires patience, as the bush must shed its leaves, and the sap flow will already stop in the shoots.

Currant bushes, planted in autumn, adapt to a new place during the winter and take root in order to give a harvest in the summer.

Transplant in the spring

How to plant currants (video)

20.03.2018

There are times when a gardener needs to transplant mature plants. For instance:

You decide to build a gazebo or a bathhouse, or you are engaged in landscaping on the site, and mature trees fall into the development zone.
A tree or shrub does not grow well and does not show its natural decorative properties.
Perennials grow at high speed and fill areas not intended for them, or they have been living in one place for too long, blooming poorly and losing their decorative effect.

The best time to transplant plants

The most successful and least traumatic for transplanting trees, shrubs and perennials is spring and autumn. At the same time, spring transplants are preferable, since there is no danger of frost, and during the active growing season there is a greater likelihood of painless survival.

Transplanting perennial flowers

Many perennial flowers cannot grow in one place for a long time and remain in “ideal shape” at the same time. After several years of successful flowering, they need to be transplanted to a new site. For each plant, this period is different. , Volzhanka, bought, for example, can grow in one place for 10 years or more, daylilies, phloxes in one place will bloom beautifully for about 6-7 years, but it is better to replant irises and lilies every 4 years. In the reference literature, such data are given for each plant, so when determining the timing, be guided by them.

For many perennials, there are “best” division breeding seasons. For example, for irises, this is the end of flowering - the end of June, for lilies - the end of August - September, for peonies - September, for hostas - before the rosette of leaves begins to unfold. These terms are best specified for each perennial separately. If you have forgotten how many years your flower has been growing in one place, be guided by the quality of its flowering, the appearance and neglect of the curtain (usually it grows bald from the center to the periphery).

Perennial flowers with a shallow root system will not be difficult to transplant. It is desirable to dig and carry them with a clod of earth.

If a perennial has a deep root-rod, then it can be damaged during transplantation, and then the plant will not take root. In this case, it is advisable to carefully separate the daughter plants with a still small root and transplant it, but do not touch the main one. Similar roots have poppies, delphiniums, aquilegia, dicenters and lupins.

Transplantation of mature trees

Transplanting mature trees is a more laborious task and there is a possibility that the plant will not take root in a new place. There is also difficulty in transporting the plant to a new location, because the excavated specimen can be quite heavy even for two people.

The most successful time for transplanting mature trees is autumn (a month before the onset of frost) and spring (before the buds swell). For transplanting, it is better to choose a cloudy day or evening to avoid drying the root system in the sun.

A new place for plants should be chosen as close as possible to the current growing conditions.

A pit for planting should be prepared in advance, at least 2 weeks before transplantation, so that it settles, warms up and becomes windy. The size of the hole should be commensurate with the size of the root system of the plant. The size of the root system is determined by the size of the crown of the tree. As a rule, the depth of the pit will not exceed 80 cm, but its width should correspond to the size of the root system and be slightly larger.

If the land in the new location is depleted, fertile soil should be added, depending on the preferences of the transplanted plant. Too much fertilizer in the hole can negatively affect plant growth, so don't overdo it. The pit is spilled with water before planting, a small mound of fertile land is created in the center, on which a tree will be installed.

Ideally, you need to transplant a plant with a clod of earth. A tree up to 3-5 years old is quite easy to transplant, since it does not yet have a very large root system, it is more difficult to transplant older trees and their survival rate is lower.

To begin with, at some distance from the tree trunk, a trench is dug about 2 bayonets deep. Its diameter depends on the size of the crown. It is important to keep in mind that the branches of the tree will have to be cut immediately or later in order to maintain a balance between the root system and the crown. It will be necessary to cut off all dry and diseased branches, and remove the young.

When the trench is dug, you will see the roots of your plant and you can carefully cut them with pruning shears. The remaining roots with a clod of earth will need to be carefully dug up with a pitchfork or a shovel, slowly rocking the trunk, pull the plant out of the ground.

To prevent the roots from drying out, it is advisable to plant the plant in a new place as soon as possible.

When planting any plant, it is important to press it well to the ground, but do not bury the root system too deep. The neck of the plant should be above the ground at a height of 6-8 cm. The trunk should be aligned vertically and tied to struts so that the wind does not knock down the plant that has not yet taken root. The places where the twine comes into contact with the trunk should be wrapped with burlap, cardboard or bark.

A newly planted plant should be well shed with water and a stimulant for the formation of the root system (heteroauxin, root). After watering, mulch the soil with humus. A planted tree must be well watered (especially in summer in dry weather) and protected from the scorching sun. The trunk of a tree for the first summer and winter after transplantation can be wrapped with burlap or moss to prevent excessive evaporation of moisture.

It is better to fertilize transplanted trees no earlier than a year later.

Shrub transplant

Transplanting a fruit or ornamental shrub is easier than an adult tree, as it is easier to dig it out, save an earthen ball, and easier to move to a new location. The transplant rules for shrubs are the same as for trees. Shrubs take root quite easily in a new place, but they will also need shading from too strong rays of light at first.

House project "Time to create gardens"

Tsyganova Oksana

Popular spring shrubs in the garden are ornamental and fruit. Read when to transplant shrubs in the spring?

Shrubs are transplanted in the garden during redevelopment, if it is necessary to update and treat the plant, or the planting site was unsuccessfully chosen. When to transplant shrubs in the spring?

Planting of fruit shrubs is carried out in the fall, if the winter period allows young, immature plants to endure the cold with stamina. woody flowering shrubs are planted in spring, flowering, more delicate species - in late spring. It is better to transplant shrubs in the spring how the earth warms up and a comfortable air temperature is established. In the same period, grown in containers landing bases. Remember that bushes vary by flowering period. Early - viburnum, wolf berries, mountain ash, Further- irga, forsythia, quince, almonds, and finally- spirea, lilac. In summer, barberry, skumpia, hibiscus, action, etc. are already blooming. Accordingly, the earlier the shrub blooms, the earlier it is transplanted.

When to transplant shrubs in spring:

Early spring before the start of sap flow;
On warm soil

Before transplanting shrubs, the gardener must have time to prepare the ground, form a planting site, renew fertilizers, move the shrub.

Preparing a site for transplanting shrubs in the spring

Before digging a hole for transplanting shrubs in the spring, the soil is fertilized and loosened. When planting plants from containers - suddenly the shrubs are just starting life in your garden - you need to take into account their history: have they spent their whole life waiting for daylight hours for planting, or have they been moved for a while for transportation? In peat mixtures- convenient for transportation - the root system of many shrubs dries quickly. Taking into account the available indicators, land preparation is being carried out.

Shrubs growing in the garden are removed with a shovel, wrapped in polyethylene or a bag, and transferred to a new planting hole to be made by the gardener.

Land for transplanting shrubs in spring:

Loose, drained land;
40% sand - steamed;
Pour fertilizer into the hole according to the size of the roots: 70 grams of lime, 30 grams of mineral fertilizers per m 2;

Gradual transplantation of shrubs in the spring

Landing place fertilized and cleared of weeds. A week later, a hole is dug according to the size of the shrub. On the day of transplantation, the shrub is removed with a garden shovel from the old hole, cut and processed as needed.

Pack the root system can be in burlap or film: transfer to a pre-spread place, wrap the roots. Drag or move the bush to a new hole in which fertilizer has already been laid. If the shrub needs to be given an incentive, then a hole for planting is dug one and a half times more than the previous one - in width and depth.

Before as transplant shrubs in spring, fluff the material at the bottom. If you forgot to feed, use ingredients that are often on hand - compost, for example. Fill the bottom of the pit, pour a small layer of earth from the site on top.

The transplant is carried out, both small and adult shrubs, so do not forget to take care of the base - drive in a stake or build a trellis along which the shrub is supposed to branch.

Place the plant upright, exposing the roots, tying the base to a support if necessary, and fix the root hole with a mound of earth for stability. The entire hole for transplanting shrubs should be filled with earth.

Shed after transplanting the shrub in the spring with water, covering +15 cm around the hole.

↓ Write in the comments about your replanting shrubs in the spring.

September is the best time for planting and transplanting shrubs and trees. Shrubs and trees are not the kind of plants that can be transplanted at any time you please. These plants must first form a good young growth. The young growth should mature and only after the leaves have matured and become stronger, it is possible to transplant.

If you are lovingly transplanting some of your plants, and you want it to be guaranteed to take root, then you need to prepare it for transplanting in advance. It is advisable, especially for plants that are difficult to replant, in advance, already in the middle of summer, to start digging a lump. To do this, you need to find out where the root neck is located - the place where the roots begin. It often happens that the plant is planted deep, and when you start to dig it, the bayonet of the shovel is not deep enough, and you can injure the root system. So, already in the middle of summer, it is necessary to dig in the plant without digging it out. Those. you need to expose the root neck and make a cut with a shovel along the diameter of the lump. The roots are cut and the plant is left in place without digging! You can move the lump a little, but in no case take it off the ground. After that, the plant is abundantly watered with water and covered with earth.

During the summer, such a plant will grow safely, and the cut roots, which could go in different directions, begin to give an additional root system to the center of the plant. Thanks to this, when digging, you will get a good root ball, with which you will transplant the plant.

In autumn, you just need to clean the root neck of the plant, thoroughly shed the earthen ball, and then proceed to dig the plant along the same contour along which you dug it during the summer.

In order to transport the plant, it is most convenient to use some kind of dense cloth. For this, old matting bags are quite suitable. So, prepare a bag, ropes with which you will need to tie the plant, and only when everything is prepared, start digging up the plant. On the existing incised contour, make an incision even deeper. If you feel that the root system has gone too deep, you can dig out the ground and expose the future lump in order to injure the root system as little as possible. Gradually shake the tree and stick the shovel as deep as possible at an angle to the center. Then lift the tree with a lump from the ground and carefully pack it. Be sure to tie the bag with a lump on the bottom as tightly as possible so that it does not fall apart during transportation. Then you need to put the tied lump in a plastic bag if you are going to transport it over a long distance. If the crown of the tree interferes, then it can also be tied with a rope.

A hole for planting a plant is prepared in advance - in the middle of summer. You should never fall asleep under the plant just brought, fresh soil. Moreover, one should not pour granular fertilizers under the roots, which are slightly damaged during plant transplantation. Strong plants can survive this, but anyway, a planting hole, flavored with fertile soil and mineral fertilizers, is best prepared at least a month before planting.

Before removing the plant from the bag, in order to injure and dry the roots as little as possible, you need to pour off the excess earth and dig out the seat. Each individual plant requires a different soil. For example, light nutritious loam is very suitable for lilac. If the soils are sandy, well-drained, i.e. those that do not shrink, then the landing is carried out almost flush with the ground. If you think that shrinkage of the soil may occur, or the earth was poured into the pit immediately before planting, then planting should be done just above ground level.

Most shrubs can be slightly buried when planting. Unlike trees, it is not necessary to ensure that the level of the root collar corresponds to the level of the ground.

When you take the plant out of the bag, set it carefully in the hole. Pour some earth around the earthen clod. Then tamp the poured earth, but you can not press the earth in the center of the coma, otherwise the root system will be damaged. If you doubt whether the lump is well shed, then it is after pouring the earth that it is best to pour water over it. But if both the earth and the earthen ball are well shed, then the plant does not need to be watered at the time of planting. The next step is to form a hole. The hole, especially for a freshly planted plant, should be spacious, such that at least 1 - 2 buckets of water can fit into it. The sides of the hole are lightly tamped and then the plant is watered abundantly, more than once. You can pour 3 - 4 watering cans of water. There will never be excess water after planting.

After you have planted the plant, you need to see if there are any extra branches on it. The roots of the plant are injured, and each extra branch will reduce the possibility of good rooting. For example, if you form a shrub in the form of a tree, then you can immediately remove all unnecessary shoots. You don't have to wait for spring. Also remove all weak branches.

The right choice of a plant for your site is already 50% of its success in growing. In addition to personal preferences, it is necessary to take into account soil conditions, illumination, and the moisture regime of your site, which will dictate the biological characteristics of the pets you need. After the list of Wishlist has already been compiled, go shopping. This will save you from rash purchases and significantly reduce time.

Give preference to plants that are grown in your area - they are most adapted to your specific growing conditions. Purchase plants that have been grown outdoors, greenhouse shrubs can burn in the sun.

And now you are holding the cherished candidate for pets already in your hands, carefully look at whether he is healthy, whether there are any visible mechanical damage, diseases, illegal living creatures. If possible, consider the root system, pay attention to its integrity and moisture. If the root system is dry, the plant may not take root, no matter how you reanimate it.

If you are buying a containerized tree or shrub, feel free to shake it a bit - the plant should sit firmly in the ground. Also pay attention to the soil, it should be moderately moist and there should be no fungal plaque, mold and insects on its surface. Do not be too lazy to look at the bottom of the container - roots should not break through its holes.

In a quality seedling, the crown will be equilateral, the branches should be evenly spaced on all sides, and in one tier the thickness of the branches should be approximately the same.

How to plant a tree or bush

1. Determine the optimal landing site

2. Dig a planting hole

3. Loosen the bottom of the pit

4. Prepare a fertile soil mixture for planting

5. Attach the landing stake

6. Place the seedling exactly in the hole

7. Fill the hole with potting mix

8. Tie the plant to a support

9. Water generously

10. Sprinkle the soil mixture and tamp the near-stem circle

Some landing features

Coniferous plants should have healthy and elastic needles without yellow spots and bald spots. Also an important point during the spring planting of conifers is the beginning of the growing season. In no case should a coniferous plant be transplanted during the period when you see blossoming buds on it, otherwise it will die.

Many plants can be transplanted both in spring and autumn. But especially heat-loving and weakly winter-hardy species are transplanted only in early spring, otherwise they will not have time to properly prepare for winter. Mostly fruit trees and shrubs.

But if it becomes necessary to plant a plant in open ground in the off-season, use planting material in containers. A few days before planting, water the lump abundantly so that it is plastic. Then carefully transfer the plant from the container to the planting hole, without damaging the lump and the integrity of the root system.

Seating preparation

The whole secret of properly preparing a seat for a tree or shrub lies in its good location. It is also important to observe the optimal distance between plants, taking into account their size in adulthood. It is not advisable to plant large trees near buildings, as their root system can damage the foundation, and with age, large branches can pose a threat.

Landing sites are first placed with the help of pegs, then pits are dug with a diameter of 20–30 cm larger than the size of the earth coma. The depth of the pit also exceeds the height of the coma by 20–30 cm. To facilitate the penetration of the roots deep into the soil, the bottom of the pit is loosened. Try to separately lay down the fertile layer of earth that you dug out of the hole. Then it is used to prepare the soil mixture. Land from the bottom of the pit is not used for planting.

If necessary, arrange drainage with broken bricks and coarse sand. At the bottom of the planting pit, 15–25 cm of the planting mixture is poured and compacted.

Digging and transporting the plant

The most painless transplant for the plant will be transshipment from the container directly into the planting hole. But if you have planned to transplant a growing tree or shrub to another place, then try to dig it out without damaging the roots. First, pull the branches along the trunk with a rope so as not to accidentally break them, then carefully dig a trench around the plant at a distance of half the crown diameter from the trunk, and gradually get close to the root system while not disturbing the clod of earth. Lay plastic wrap, burlap, or any other material near the plant so that the plant can be moved from place to place without breaking the ground from the roots. If you plan to transfer the plant over a long distance, then it is better to plant it in a container. If this is not possible, and almost all the earth has already crumbled from the roots, wrap the plant with a damp cloth.

Planting trees and shrubs

The plant is carefully lowered into the prepared seat with drainage and planting mixture, while carefully monitoring that its root neck is located slightly below the soil surface, and covered with soil mixture. The soil mixture is prepared from peat, earth and sand in a ratio of 1: 1: 1. Then half fill the planting hole with water, as it decreases, you will notice that the soil is compacted, and again pour the soil mixture on top. The soil around the trunk is tightly trampled. If the root system of your plant is packed in burlap, then it is not necessary to remove it before planting. Under the influence of soil, water and time, it will break down into organic residues and will not interfere with the development of your plant.

Landing Care

Immediately after planting, trees or shrubs should be given maximum attention. Water it regularly and abundantly. Water the plant every day for the first week after planting, then according to biological requirements and weather conditions. Make sure that the soil in the near-stem circle is dense and does not fail. If necessary, add a new one and mulch the soil with peat or tree bark.

During the first year, top dressing is applied 3 times. It is especially important in the spring to feed young plantings with nitrogen fertilizers. They help the plant form green mass and gain energy for vegetation. In autumn, phosphorus should prevail in the fertilizer complex, but nitrogen is minimized, since before winter dormancy it will only harm the plant.

During planting, the tree requires tying up, this will help it gain a foothold in the ground. You can secure the plant with a pole and rope. Make sure that the plant is planted vertically, with any inclination of the trunk, the decorative effect will be lost. The support should accompany the plant for three years, while making sure that the ropes do not hurt the bark and do not grow into the trunk. After this period, the support can be removed. Shrubs usually do not require tying to a support.

After each watering, when the soil dries out a little, the soil around the tree or shrub must be loosened, it is also important to keep the tree trunks free of weeds.

Natalia Vysotskaya, dendrologist, Ph.D. -X. Sciences.

Autumn plantings have their own specifics, especially in the central zone of Russia. Ignoring this fact, you can do a lot of trouble, so today we remind you of a few important rules, following which will allow you to avoid typical autumn mistakes.

First rule: not everything should be planted in the fall

Don't plant in autumn trees with bare roots if one of the following statements applies to the seedling:

this plant, due to its biological characteristics, does not tolerate transplantation well;
this variety or species of plants has a problem with winter hardiness in our climate;
this tree was grown in a different climatic zone and we have not wintered a single winter.

In the first case, we are talking primarily about deciduous trees with a taproot and a slightly branched root system - birches, oak trees, chestnuts, nuts, velvets and so on, as well as about such a bush as hawthorn. A transplant with bare roots is very poorly tolerated by all conifers, except larches.

As for winter hardiness, trees such as chestnuts and almost all fruit, with the possible exception of the most winter-hardy local varieties apple trees. And finally, we do not recommend planting any species and varieties of trees just brought from Europe in the fall with bare roots. A plant that has lost a significant part of its roots may not be able to overpower the reconfiguration to other biological rhythms.

container plants- whether it be trees or shrubs, deciduous or coniferous - you can plant in the fall. There is only one “but”: if the tree has been in the container for a very long time, if its roots have already outgrown the volume offered by it and have begun to twist in rings, the plant may not take root well. Roots in a twisted state will not be able to immediately begin to function at full capacity, so it is better not to purchase such a plant for planting in the fall.

Trees and shrubs with a clod of earth transplanted in the fall in the same way as container ones. But the state of the coma must be studied very meticulously: if it shook, the earth crumbled, you are actually dealing with bare roots, only powdered with soil, and this can be deadly for the plant in all cases listed above for such a situation.

In general, the lump must be handled with extreme care, trying not to injure it once again. If a lump is packed in a mesh (metal or filament) or in burlap, in no case try to get rid of them. This kind of packaging is made from materials that decompose in the ground and will not harm the growth of roots at all.

The second rule: you can only plant what is no longer growing.

When planting in the fall, you need to make sure that the growth of the selected plants is over for this season. Active vegetation is completed if the apical buds are formed, and the shoots are lignified along the entire length. Otherwise - when the tree goes into winter before the end of the growing season - it will definitely freeze.

You need to be especially careful when buying imported plants, as well as if the summer turned out to be very dry, and it rained only in August. Plants from other climatic zones, just brought to Russia, may not yet master the biological rhythms of the new area. And in dry years, a stormy vegetation often begins very late, only with August rains. In both the first and second cases, we get trees by the beginning of the planting season that are completely unprepared for wintering.

Third rule: do not be late with the dates of landings

It is believed that in our climatic zone, trees and shrubs with an open root system are best planted. until October 10, because the seedlings still have to have a margin of time to put up young roots in a new place.

If the tree has time to form new roots in unfamiliar soil, its root system begins to function at full capacity, and the transplanted plant will survive all the winter hardships much easier. This is especially true for trees and shrubs that are hard to take root (see the first rule).

Of course, the dates of landings can be slightly shifted depending on the specific weather conditions. So, in the abnormally warm winter that once fell to us, enthusiasts continued to plant almost until the beginning of December, but this, of course, was already too big audacity.

Again, when we talk about October 10, we mean plants with bare roots. Capital research on container plants was simply not carried out in Russia, since the latter appeared relatively recently, in the latest era of the onset of imports. But we believe that it is not worth moving away from October 10 with containers too far.

Fourth rule: do not overdo it with fertilizers

This is a very important condition for a successful autumn planting. In autumn, you can bring into the planting hole only phosphate fertilizer. Phosphorus promotes root formation and is safe for the plant in high concentrations. Nitrogen, potassium and calcium in high concentrations (and when fertilizers are applied to the planting pit, we get a high concentration of them) will not only not stimulate the growth of new roots, but, on the contrary, will seriously impede the functioning of the existing root system. Introduced in the fall, these additives can be detrimental to the transplanted plant.

Accordingly, neither manure (neither fresh nor rotted), nor lime in autumn for planting no need to add. They can be made in advance, in the spring, for general soil preparation.

The only thing that can still support a newly planted plant is with root formation stimulants: root and humates. The preparations are diluted with water and applied during irrigation in the quantities indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer.

Fifth rule: landings need protection

When planting in the fall, do not forget about a set of measures that will help the plant survive the winter hardships. We are talking about mulching the trunk circle, protecting the stem from sunburn, mice and hares, installing supports and protecting the crown from snowfall.

After warming the roots, think about mice. After all, organic mulch (especially straw, sawdust, bark) will attract them very much. Be sure to protect fruit, as well as ornamental varieties of apple trees, plums, pears. But we would advise in general to provide all newly planted trees with protection, if such an opportunity exists. I have seen, for example, how mice gnawed at the cambium even on ash and Chinese poplars.

Actually, the protection itself is sold in the store - this is such a thin plastic spiral mesh that is put on the trunk. If you have a problem with hares on the site, a similar protection against hares must also be purchased. To find out more, read the article tie to support a tree planted before winter (however, like a tree planted in spring) is required! In no case should the tree sway in the wind, setting the root system in motion - in this case, rooting will be problematic. If the tree is small, one or two supports are enough; an adult plant needs a stretching system.

And finally, don't forget to protect the crown from the snowbreaker by tying it with twine. This is especially true for trees with a pyramidal and columnar crown shape - for all those whose branches depart from the trunk at an acute angle. And twice it is relevant for conifers with a similar crown shape - junipers, thujas, cypresses. Shrubs also do not hurt to protect from snowfall.

Good luck landing!

Irina Savvateeva

In what month to plant bushes and trees on your personal plot depends on a number of factors. It is necessary to take into account the climatic features of the region, the characteristics of the variety, the weather, the time of arrival of frosts. Planting trees in autumn is preferable for southern cities and the middle zone, where winters are not very snowy, colds do not come until the end of October. However, planting new crops on the site is also permissible in the spring, which is most often practiced in the northern regions.

Decent choice of material. At the end of the fruiting phase (in summer), it is possible to evaluate not only the characteristics of the seedling, but also the volume and taste of the fruit in a particular variety.
If you do not miss the deadlines, the plants have time to get stronger before winter, take root and take root on the site. New roots appear on them, which are already actively growing with the onset of spring.
Rains in autumn are more frequent than in summer, which reduces the amount of watering required. Loose breathable soil contributes to good rooting of the seedling, which allows you to prepare the plants for winter.

Planting shrubs in the fall has its drawbacks:

Planting material is immature seedlings of a bush or tree. With the onset of early frosts, sudden changes in temperature, too heavy rains, they may not take root and die in a cold snowy winter.
A variety of pests in the absence of food can eat the bark of fruit trees and shrubs, which significantly reduces the chances of plant rooting.

It is necessary to take into account the amount of snow that falls in a particular region. If the nast is too large and heavy, thin stems and branches may break under its weight.

What fruit bushes and trees are planted in autumn

In autumn, you can plant the following fruit trees:

Cherry;
peach;
almond;
apple trees;
cherries;
apricot;
plum.

Almost any fruit shrubs, with the exception of sea buckthorn, are optimally planted in the autumn. Winter-hardy varieties are:

nut;
currant;
coniferous;
some types of pear;
honeysuckle;
gooseberry;
aronia.

After the autumn planting, seedlings brought from the southern regions do not take root. They are not able to endure sub-zero temperatures and large amounts of snow.

Terms of landing works

Autumn planting of trees must be carried out at the following times:

in the cities of the middle zone - from the end of September to the end of October;
in the warm parts of the country - from the last decade of September to mid-November.

Plants can be planted later, depending on the weather. In southern latitudes, winter generally occurs in late November or early December. If the above-zero temperature is maintained until this period, there are no heavy rains, snow and night frosts, you can do planting work.

tree planting technology

Planting fruit trees in the fall has certain nuances. It is important to choose the side of the site where there is more light and low (at least 1.5 m) groundwater occurrence. Some crops, such as peach, cherry, raspberry, without proper lighting will not give a good harvest.

Site and soil preparation

Before choosing a place, consider the size of the future plant, namely the roots and crown of the bush / tree. It is also necessary to make indents from the house, communications and outbuildings.

The distance is calculated based on the height of the tree:

tall ones, reaching 20–25 m, are placed at least 35 m from the building;
undersized species - from 4.5 m.

Some crops in the neighborhood give a poor harvest and interfere with each other, depriving them of light. The neighborhood of an apple tree with cherry plum, peach, apricot with cherry, walnut with many fruit crops is not recommended.

Pit preparation is as follows:

The size is determined based on the diameter of the roots. Stone fruits require a hole of at least 40 cm in diameter up to 60 seconds deep, for pome fruits the hole should be up to 80 cm in diameter and a similar depth.
Root cutting is not recommended. If the seedling does not fit in the hole, its diameter must be increased.
At the bottom of the pit, a drainage layer of crushed stone 20-40 mm, sand and gravel mixture or river pebbles is arranged.
The top layer is removed carefully; in the future, supplements of mineral or organic origin will be added to it.

Two years after planting, the seedling will fully feed on the substances that are in the soil of the planting pit. That is why the initial feeding is so important.

How to prepare seedlings

When choosing planting material, pay attention to the appearance of the plant:

the roots should be straightened and not bent up;
on the root system there should be a clod of moist earth;
too many leaves on a seedling may indicate that there is not enough moisture in the tissues;
if unripened shoots are visible, then the seedling was dug up before the leaves fell;
there should be no visible cracks, rot or other damage on the bark.

A good seedling is even, with at least 5-6 shoots, without curved sections of the trunk and branches.

Landing scheme

Technique for planting seedlings of fruit trees in autumn:

Place seedlings on the south side of the site. Most fruit crops are thermophilic and need good lighting. On the north side, it is better to plant tall trees.
Prepare the seedling - remove the dried parts of the root system with secateurs, moisten with a wet piece of cloth or a spray bottle.
Place a wooden peg in the center of the dug hole, make a mound at the bottom.
Place a seedling in the center of this mound so that it is at least 5 cm from the peg. The inoculation should be located 3 cm above the ground.
Fill the hole with earth, gently pressing it with your hands. Do some mulching.

First remove the top layer of soil, place it in a large container. Here it is necessary to make top dressing and fill up the place around the seedling.

Subtleties of planting shrubs

It is better to plant shrubs on the site in the first decade of September, so that before the winter cold they have time to take root and not be damaged by frost. The planting technique depends on whether you want to get free-standing bushes or a hedge.

Site and soil preparation

The dimensions of the planting holes must correspond to the parameters of the root system. Lateral roots - to be able to receive nutrients and water from all layers of the soil due to growth to the sides.

Pits for bushes are prepared as follows:

To create a natural fence from the bushes, you need to dig a long trench. At the lowest point of the dug hole, drain the water. If there is no slope of the site, an artificial slope is created by removing the top layer of soil.
Some shrubs, such as thuja, are suitable for creating hedges. In this case, it is also possible to make a trench, the depth of which will be 50-60 cm.
Medium-sized plants require trenches up to 50 cm deep.
From the smallest shrubs, you can create low borders. In this case, the trench will not exceed 35 cm in depth.

The width of the pit also varies depending on the size of the seedlings:

single row landing - 50 cm;
medium shrubs - up to 40 cm;
small seedlings - the width of a shovel.

As in the case of planting trees, the top layer of soil about 12 cm thick is removed and deposited in a separate container for top dressing.

Planting material processing

When seedlings are purchased in advance, they must be protected from drying out by wrapping the root system with a wet cloth and transfer the plants to a cool place. If the seedling is bought too late, it is better to bury it before the next planting period. Preparatory steps:

the roots are pruned until healthy tissues appear, dried roots are removed with pruners;
1.5 hours before being transferred to the pits, the root system is watered abundantly;
the plant is transferred to a pit with an adhering earthen clod;
some cultures require pruning of shoots before planting.

It is necessary to remove all dried shoots and roots, as well as broken, with signs of disease, cracks. Use a sharp tool so as not to hurt the healthy tissue of the plant.

Landing technology

Bush planting scheme:

It is necessary to drive a pointed peg made of wood into the dug hole to a depth of about 20 cm. The height of the peg should be about 1-1.5 m. It is necessary for further tying plants (standard varieties) and strengthening on the ground.
Before planting about 15 minutes, the roots of the seedlings should be in the open air. To do this, remove the packaging or a damp cloth, lay out the planting material near the dug holes.
Fill the bottom of the hole with vegetable soil and form a mound in the shape of a cone with a height of at least half the depth. Consider the nature of the branching and the shape of the root system.
Place the seedling and straighten the roots along the cone with your hands. It should be strictly vertical and at a distance of 5 cm from the peg.
Please note that with subsequent watering the soil will settle. Therefore, the seedling should be 5 cm above the usual surface of the garden plot, the root collar does not go deep into the pit.
Pour the soil in layers, compact with your feet to the outside of the hole. This will help to avoid the appearance of voids and too much shrinkage when watering.
Completely cover the entire root system, gently tamp. Center the position of the seedling and tie it with a soft rope to a peg at a height of about 1.5 mots of soil.

For non-standard forms of shrubs, as a fortification, you can use not a peg, but a rounded hole, which is organized according to the diameter of the landing pit.

Immediately after planting shrubs and fruit trees, it is necessary to water the seedlings. Mulching is carried out with peat chips, the layer thickness should be about 2 cm. This will reduce the evaporation of moisture. In addition to peat, you can use a mixture of earth and sand, crushed tree bark and other natural materials.

As a top dressing, a ready-made or self-made growth stimulator is used. It is added to the water used for irrigation. This will promote the rapid rooting of plants.

When working with shrubs or trees, consider the climatic conditions. The low temperatures of the Urals or Siberia are suitable for growing acclimatized or zoned varieties that can endure early frosts and snowy windy winters. Early digging of seedlings, if it is carried out before the foliage has flown, can cause bushes with unripened shoots to freeze and die. Choose planting material without leaves, not overdried, without broken or dry roots.

How to transplant shrubs.

Shrubs take root well in a new place if you prepare them for transplanting. Transplant them at the right time and provide them with proper care.

How and when to transplant trees and bushes

Is it possible to transplant a tree or a bush in the summer?

Trees, in case of emergency, can be replanted at any time of the year, observing the following rules:

The tree to be transplanted should be taken out of the ground on a foggy or rainy day.

Pits are dug a few months before planting and filled with semi-rotted manure or good compost.

Trees to be transplanted must be healthy.

When digging up a tree, its strong roots are first exposed at the greatest possible distance. Then they dig a semicircular ditch on one side of the tree, the width is half the length of the roots.

If there are no longer large thick roots, then they dig under the tree and cut off the main core of the roots.

When a tree is dug up on one side, then all the roots are cut off from the opposite side, tilting the tree to the side from which it has already been dug up. Then the tree is taken out of the ground, having previously wrapped it with burlap or tarpaulin and pulled it together with ropes.

Planting holes should be twice as large as the roots will take up space. The roots are straightened in a horizontal position, covered with earth. When backfilling, the tree is shaken if possible, and after backfilling, the earth is trampled down and watered abundantly.

The weak part of the tree should face south.

There is another way to transplant trees in the garden.

To do this, a hole of the appropriate size is dug, but not less than 1.5 m in diameter, and half filled with water (the method of planting in a mash). Then earth and humus are added. All this is shaken up until an earthen mash is formed, into which a tree is planted. The hole is then filled in and watered again. The talker is needed so that all the voids between the roots are filled with soil. Stakes (preferably on three sides) are placed further into untouched soil and with the help of ropes strengthen the tree. A tree planted in this way must be watered 1-2 times a week, depending on the weather and soil conditions.

After planting, and even better before transplanting, all branches of the crown are cut in half, the roots damaged by a shovel are smoothly cut with a knife.

After transplanting, it is advisable to tie the trunk and main branches with moss to protect the tree from sunlight. It is useful to mulch the soil around the tree with straw manure to maintain its moisture.

Nevertheless, the autumn method of transplantation is more preferable for which the time has come in the country now.

Reader Tips:

How to transplant a large, large tree (krupnomer)

Having received a plot, the newly-minted gardener seeks to plant everything at once. And more! But ten years pass, and incorrectly planted apple trees turn into a forest. This is where the problem of choice arises: either an ax or a transplant. And the tree is already multi-meter ...

Transplanting large-sized trees (this is what trees older than 10 years are called) without the appropriate equipment is not at all an easy task. But with two or three pairs of hands possible. Dig around the tree within a radius of 0.6-0.8 m from the trunk, chop off the roots. Then, “hand-to-hand” (or with a winch), lay the tree on its side (without lifting!), Cutting down the vertical roots by at least half a meter. Backfill the resulting hole flush with the surrounding soil. Then spread a tarp (or something similar) in this place. Turn the root ball over onto the bedding, turning the tree upright. And then drag your newcomer to a new place of residence.

My husband and I transplanted trees in November - a cherry tree at the age of 8 and an apple tree at the age of 15. The place where they grew was shaded, and we decided to move them to the sun. There was a risk, of course. But, as they say, who does not risk ...

Holes were prepared in advance, and deeper than those in which our trees were originally planted. Humus was poured at the bottom, necessarily two shovels of clay each (there is no stagnant water in our area, and clay retains moisture), a little sprinkled with earth.

They dug up the trees - they dug from the trunk at a distance of 80 cm, chopped off the long roots. Barely dragged "settlers" to a new place. We planted them 10 cm deeper than usual, and made a recess like a bowl so that rainwater would flow right under the trees. Finally watered heavily. It was in the last days of November. December was wet, with occasional showers. Perhaps because of this, the trees did not get sick. Have been waiting for spring.

What was our surprise when in the spring we saw swollen buds, and then abundant flowering - the cherry and apple tree took root!

In the spring, I watered the apple tree in 2-3 buckets, or even more, in this "bowl", as it needed moisture so that the flowers would not fade. And in the summer, during fruiting, watered on dry days. I did it in the evenings. When setting and ripening fruits, moisture is needed. I took water from a pond, it is not far from our garden.

They worked, watered, and it settled down. Seedlings benefit from water in a hot summer - it is absorbed into the ground, moisturizing it abundantly, and everything around grows. You just need to make sure that the puddle does not stand under the tree. If your site is too low, I advise you to make drainage at the bottom of the pit so that the roots do not rot.

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Garden and dacha › Tips for a summer resident › How and when to transplant trees

When is the best time to transplant trees and shrubs?

When is the best time to repot trees and shrubs? Consider how and when you can transplant fruit trees, ornamental trees and shrubs, as well as conifers.

Plant plants with an open root system from the first decade of April to the second decade of May and from the second decade of August to the first decade of September. When planted at this time, the plants have time to take root and overwinter well.

When planting, cut off inflorescences and part of the leaves from plants, especially large leaf blades, to prevent excessive evaporation and loss of moisture.

Digging and landing in a new place is desirable to carry out in one day.

After planting, transplanting, the plants are watered and treated with growth stimulants.

Do not plant plants together with the container, carefully remove the container without destroying the lump.

Do not deepen the root neck of trees and shrubs, especially grafted forms.

When is the best time to transplant fruit trees?

It is carried out in late autumn, winter and early spring periods, with the exception of summer.

When planting plants in containers, it is important not to destroy the lump and not to deepen the root collar in order to avoid the formation of a large number of shoots.

When is the best time to transplant ornamental trees and shrubs?

The highest survival rates are in plants with a closed root system. They can be planted at any time, with the exception of winter. Read more about planting seedlings in containers.

When is the best time to transplant conifers?

Transplanting currants to a new place in autumn and spring when possible

In garden practice, often there are Situations that require a currant transplant to a new location. Most often this is due to an error during site selection, depletion of the soil under the bush, or redevelopment of the site.

Transplanting an adult shrub to another place - Great stress for the plant, which is accompanied by soreness and often leads to his death.

Therefore, the procedure must be carried out taking into account the biological characteristics and the annual cycle of currants.

Stages of correct transplantation of an adult bush
- Site selection and preparation
Care after

When is it better to transplant currants to a new place: in autumn or spring, in what month?

Which month is better? The timing of transplanting currants is completely dependent on the climatic conditions of the region. In regions with severe winters with a decrease in air temperature below 30 ° C, spring transplantation is preferable.

But at the same time, it is important to take into account the features of the annual cycle of a crop that enters the growing season early. After the start of sap flow, the shrub will receive a double load, trying to take root and at the same time increasing the green mass.

spring transplant carried out after complete thawing of the soil, temperature rise to + 1 ° C and until the buds swell. This limits the timing of transplantation, reduces the time for quiet rooting to three weeks.

The timing of transplanting currants is completely dependent on the climatic conditions of the region.

There are much more favorable factors for the autumn transplantation of currants. This is a stable temperature until the first frost, which gives time for the roots to adapt to a new place.

In addition, there are much more nutrients in currant cells in autumn and downward current prevails, which contribute to the rapid healing of root wounds and give strength for recovery.

Therefore, in the middle and southern regions of horticulture, the shrub Prefer to transplant in autumn. At the same time, it is important to determine the most accurate dates, at least three weeks should remain before the first frost.

The ideal time for transplantation is the period between September 10-15, it is at this time that the most active growth of absorbed roots is observed. This factor significantly increases the survival rate of currants.

Stages of correct transplantation of an adult bush

The basis of a successful transplant of an adult shrub- the right choice of location, preparation of soil and shrubs.

Site selection and preparation

Red and white currants are thermophilic plants. For them, leveled areas are selected, oriented to the south or south-west direction. In such areas, the soil is warmed by the sun's rays, well aerated and water does not stagnate.

Black and green currant less whimsical plants. Good indicators of a stable harvest are noted when planting on the slopes of the northern or northeastern direction. Short-term shading is acceptable.

The best predecessors of currants are tilled crops that help clear the area from rhizomatous weeds. These are potatoes, beets, corn, buckwheat and beans.

Unsuitable for growing lowland currants and closed hollows, where cold air stagnates and humidity is increased. This contributes to the development of fungal diseases and the appearance of root rot.

The selected place is dug up in early spring to a depth of 40 cm with fertilization per 1 m2:

Compost or manure 10 kg;
Double superphosphate 10 g;
Potassium chloride 7 g.

In spring or autumn, a pit is prepared for transplanting: 40 cm deep and 70 cm wide, fill it with a substrate

In the summer, in August, the site is dug up again and form a hole for the bush. For spring transplantation, the site is prepared in the fall.

Determining the size of the pit, they are guided by the volume of the bush. In most cases Enough depth 40 cm and width 60 cm. For tall and remontant varieties, a depth of 60-70 cm is required. The distance between the bushes is at least 1.5 meters.

After digging, the hole is 1/3 filled with substrate from mixed components:

The top layer of garden soil from the pit;
Rotted manure or compost 10 kg;
Superphosphate 300 g (for blackcurrant) 200 g (red, white);
Wood ash 400 g or potassium sulfate 30 g.

For red and white currants, they dig a hole deeper. and at the bottom they form a drainage layer of expanded clay or broken bricks, not more than 15% of the total volume.

Thereafter The pit is spilled with 1-2 buckets of water. Before transplanting currants, all conditions will be created inside the pit for a comfortable adaptation of the roots.

The substrate is structured and saturated with moisture, and the introduced minerals and organic matter will take on forms that are easy for the plant to assimilate and will not cause root burns.

Currant transplant:

Preparation of red and black currant bushes

During transplantation, the volume of shrub roots will significantly decrease, which makes it difficult to feed the vegetative mass. Therefore, currant 2-3 weeks before the upcoming event, cut, leaving only areas that are significant for fruiting and development. When planting in autumn, pruning can be done in the spring, before the buds swell.

At the base of the bush there is a branching zone. Strong side shoots grow from it, at a height of 30-40 cm, a fruiting zone begins, characterized by weak branching. The shoots here are short, but with developed flower buds, so most of the crop is placed on them.

On top branches also massively form fruit buds, which are noticeably weaker and produce only small berries. Therefore, the main branches of the shrub are cut off by 1/3, without fear of harm to the next season's crop. After pruning, the average height of the currant should be 45-50 cm.

The productivity of currant fruits is 5 years, It makes no sense to leave obsolete branches on the bush. The development of currants is hampered by tops, shoots and dried branches, they should also be removed.

Do not combine pruning shrubs with transplanting. This is a double load for the plant, which will distribute the forces to heal wounds and adapt roots in a new place. This can cause the death of currants.

Can be transplanted elsewhere!

During transplantation, a groove 30-35 cm deep is dug around the near-trunk circle, retreating 40 cm from the trunk. After that, you need to carefully pull the shrub at the base of the branches, cut off the roots holding with a bayonet shovel.

For the convenience of the event Currant branches are tied like a spindle. Additionally, this will protect against breakage of fruit branches. The excavated shrub is placed on a tarpaulin for transportation to the landing site.

Further Examine the roots, clean them of pests, cut off dried and rotten areas. Carry out the disinfection procedure by placing the roots of the plant in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate for 15 minutes.

A shrub with healthy roots is transplanted without pre-treatment.

At the bottom of the landing hole A mound is formed from the prepared substrate and spilled with 1-2 buckets of water. After that, wait until the water is absorbed. Planting in a too humid environment will lead to excessive shrinkage of the shrub, which often causes improper development.

Also take into account that The root neck of the shrub should remain 5 cm below the surface of the substrate.

When transplanting, it must be taken into account that the root neck of the shrub is 5 cm below the surface of the substrate

Regarding the cardinal points, currants are placed similarly to the previous place. Currant roots are distributed over the surface of the mound, preventing unnatural bends upward.

During the backfilling of the roots, make sure that voids do not form., which often cause decay. To do this, during the procedure, the shrub is periodically shaken.

The surface is compacted and A hole for irrigation is formed around the near-stem circle.. Water (20 l) is poured in gradually, waiting for complete absorption. With this watering, the water completely covers the roots, increasing their contact with the soil.

After that, the trunk circle and the hole are mulched with peat, humus or soddy soil.

Care after

After transplanting, the shrub will need the help of a gardener. The soil in the near-stem circle is maintained in a constantly loose state.. This is necessary to create an optimal balance of water and air for proper nutrition and respiration of the roots.

At the base of the bush, loosening is carried out to a depth of 5-6 cm, closer to the watering hole up to 15 cm.

In autumn, the shrub is prepared for winter:

Clean the near-stem circle from plant residues;
Lay a layer of mulch from peat or straw at least 15 cm in height;
Cover the trunk with spruce branches;
Spraying with fungicides;
The branches are collected to the center and tied with twine;
They pull the snow up to the bushes.

Currants are prepared for winter: the trunk circle is cleaned of plant residues, the branches are collected to the center and tied with twine

In the first two weeks after planting, if there is no rain, Will need regular watering every other day. So that the soil is moistened up to 60 cm deep. For this, 3-4 buckets of water are used.

In the first year, currants will not need top dressing. After two weeks, the irrigation time is determined by the state of the soil under the shrub.

The crumbling of the soil into small pieces after squeezing in the hand indicates the need for urgent watering. This indicator is guided throughout the growing season.

Weakened shrubs are most attractive to pests and diseases., which is explained by the temporary loss of stability. Therefore, the task of the gardener during this period is complete control over the currant, especially in the first year of development.

A Insecticides and fungicides can help, which can be prepared from herbal ingredients or purchased ready-made preparations.

How to transplant a currant bush without risk, part 1:

How to transplant a currant bush without risk, part 2.