How to prepare the walls for wallpapering? Wall treatment before wallpapering. Preparing concrete walls for wallpapering: a quick guide How to process a wall from

Coziness in an apartment is important for any person. It allows you to relax after a stressful day at work, forget about everyday worries for a while and just enjoy your leisure time. Creating a pleasing home environment begins with "well-groomed" walls. Wallpaper is still the most preferred cladding option. Many people know how to glue them. But only experts know how to properly prepare the room for their application. In this article, we will reveal all the secrets of the technological process of processing walls before decorating them with wallpaper.

What a perfect wall should look like

In Soviet times, when changing decorative coverings, it was often practiced to apply new wallpapers directly to old ones or to newspapers. Thick wall layers can be found in many "older" houses and apartments. The modern society rejects the principle "and so it will come down", offering instead a rational approach and verified calculations. Competent and beautiful decoration of the room with new canvases depends on the condition of the walls. It is possible to determine the quality of the base and the amount of repair work only by first removing the previous coating. Experienced craftsmen put forward the following requirements for surfaces for wallpapering:

The base must be clean and free:

from previous canvases, paints and other possible coatings;
from screws, nails, etc .;
from fungal infections is a very important factor that strongly affects not only the appearance of the home, but also the health of its owners.

No cracks and numerous pores, which will contribute to reliable adhesion of the material to the surface.
The base must be flat and smooth. The assumption that a new tapestry will hide all defects is fundamentally wrong.
The wall must be well dried. Otherwise, wallpaper glue, which contains water, will not be able to firmly attach the canvas to the wall. An increase in room temperature will generally lead to flaking of the trellises.
The uniform color of the base is of great importance when choosing thin wallpaper in light colors, otherwise the difference in color schemes will be noticeable even after renovation.

Taking into account the above criteria for preparing the surface for gluing, you will create a solid high-quality base and the most comfortable conditions for further work.

Why treat walls

Many do not understand why the easy process of wallpapering should be complicated by carefully preparing the walls. Moreover, this is a very time-consuming and costly, and also "dirty" event. The answer is simple. Wall cladding is needed in order to:

the new decorative coating looked aesthetically pleasing;
the trellises were firmly held;
protect from mold;
glue without problems.

Housing, both in the secondary housing and in a new building, needs similar repair work, the whole difference is in their number. Apartments on the primary market often already have a fine finish, in which case you won't have to mess around with preparing the walls for a long time. Houses with history will take a lot more effort. In this case stage-by-stage preparation of surfaces for wallpaper must be strictly observed. Each step has its own purpose. Finishing specialists do not recommend skipping any stage, as this will affect the final result.

Competent wall treatment before applying a new paper layer goes through 3 main stages:

cleaning;
alignment;
primer.

Below is a step-by-step sequence of actions.

Step 1. We clean the wall

Cleaning surfaces from old coatings- the most time consuming stage. Lucky if you need to remove the old wallpaper or whitewash.

Canvases to be replaced can be removed in the following ways:

pick up with a spatula at the junction and pull towards yourself, trying not to break, this will save time;
if good glue was used, and the trellises do not come off so easily, then you need to wet them well with warm water using a roller, spray bottle or ordinary sponge. After softening the glue and paper, clean it off with a spatula;
surface treatment with steam, such as a steam iron. For large premises and a serious amount of work, a special steamer is suitable;
multi-layer wallpaper is removed in two steps - first, the outer layer is dismantled, and then the paper base, previously moistened with water; the spatula is usually chosen as the tool.

It is not very difficult to rid the surface of whitewashing, but you can stain everything around. Therefore, it is better to cover the floors with a film or other material that will not be a pity to dispose of. It is recommended to moisten a dense layer of coating with water, and then remove it in separate pieces. The whitewash made in a thin layer can be easily removed with water diluted with vinegar, due to the neutralization of the fatty properties.

The most difficult thing is to separate unnecessary paint from the walls. Here, professional repairmen use a choice, and sometimes in combination, a number of the following methods:

Manual. The work is carried out using one of the tools - a spatula, scraper, file, chisel, etc.
Electromechanical. The most commonly used drill is with an abrasive nozzle. But there are also more specialized and suitable devices: cleaning mills do an excellent job with concrete and plastered bases; A punch with a spatula tip is also effective in this regard, however, it has a serious drawback - it can damage the surface. Another electric tool, often used on large areas, is a grinder, in which the disc is replaced with a special brush.
Thermal. This method works in two steps:
a) the paint is heated with a blowtorch or a hair dryer;

b) the coating is removed with a spatula.

The disadvantage of this method is the release of toxic substances, which occurs at the softening temperature of the paint.
Chemical. The essence of the method is to apply a special substance to the old coating - a remover (solvents, alkalis, acids). In this case, the paint either becomes soft and is removed with a spatula, or it dissolves altogether, and the base is cleaned with water.

The first two are considered the safest methods. Using thermal and chemical wall cleaning, it is necessary to ventilate the room well. Regardless of the chosen method of removing paint, you need to remember your well-being and use protective equipment, for example, respirators, gloves, glasses.

Step 2. Get rid of mold and mildew

Having removed the old decorative layer, pay close attention to the possible presence of colonies of microorganisms on the walls. This can be both obvious mold and dark spots, signaling a problem in the form of fungus. The story is unpleasant, but requires maximum efforts to fix it. Biological damage to the wall is fraught not only with the future unsightly appearance of the equipped housing, since the new wallpaper is not a hindrance to pests, and the trellises will definitely be damaged. Mold has an even more detrimental effect on the person himself, releasing dangerous spores. It can lead to respiratory diseases, allergic reactions, and toxic poisoning. Therefore, it is very important to fight fungal manifestations by any available means. Removal of foci of biological damage and "treatment" of the wall - that action, which in no case can be canceled. Here are a few essential points that are important in solving this problem:

The first step is to find out why dangerous microorganisms appeared on the walls of the house at all. Otherwise, even after the apparent elimination of the problem, the black spots will reappear. A fungus on the outside of a building may indicate improper ventilation or through cracks in the corners.
Colonies of pests reproduce well in high humidity. If you see the fungus in the bathroom, shower, kitchen or toilet, you need to start "treatment" from these places.
To combat mold, fungicides are effective - special chemicals with targeted action. They suppress reproduction and destroy "uninvited guests". They can be sprayed on or applied with a brush.
Most of the products contain chlorine. You need to take care of your safety and arm yourself with protective equipment for the respiratory system, eyes, hands.
Given the deep penetration of fungal spores into the wall, it is difficult to get rid of pests. It is important to choose a composition that penetrates deep into the material from which the building is built.
The affected area must be impregnated with antiseptic compounds repeatedly (5-7 times). After each treatment, the "diseased" area of \u200b\u200bthe surface is dried and cleaned with water.
The appearance of biological colonies on the plaster is a reason to completely remove it.
There are also folk recipes for eliminating mold spots:

the use of ordinary cheap store whiteness, in which the concentration of chlorine is very high;

home preparation of a mixture consisting of plain water and lime (1 l. + 200 gr.).

Residents of new buildings are advised to take preventive measures and impregnate the walls with a preventive antibacterial primer.
If the independent fight against the fungus was unsuccessful, you need to contact the professionals.

Step 3. Repair the surface

If there are such serious defects as cracks and chips in the wall, they must be eliminated without fail. Wall surface repair - a simple matter, but very necessary if you want to further enjoy the results of your work in the form of beautifully laid canvases, and not regret wasted money and time. Cracks under the wallpaper can greatly spoil the impression of the renovation.

Performing five simple sequential steps will give you the result you want and the foundation, ready for further processing:

The gap must be increased for deeper penetration and adhesion of the repair compound to the surface.
Clean the crack from the resulting dirt with a brush.
Carry out priming.
Seal the hole with the purchased mortar. It can be the same as the wall material or be different from it (special polymer-based compounds). To eliminate wide chips, polyurethane foam is suitable.
After the former crack has dried, the excess material is removed, and then the base is smoothed out, leveling it along the main surface.

Step 4. Priming the wall

This action is underestimated by many, it is considered excessive. This is not true. Surface priming at this stage it is intended:

strengthen the adhesion of the trellis to the wall;
protect against new possible fungal colonies.

Preventive protection against mold requires the purchase of priming solutions with an antiseptic effect.

The choice of the composition for priming depends on the place of its application, on the purpose and properties. The most versatile are deep-acting acrylic mixtures.

A traditional roller or brush is used as an inventory.

The essence of the whole stage is to eliminate pores in the structure of the surface material, which guarantees the quality of pasting the room.

Step 5. Leveling the surface

There are several methods for correcting uneven foundations. The choice of one of them depends on:

from the skill of the employee;
on the degree of curvature of the wall.

Let's consider the main ways:

Inexperienced repairmen, in the case of a slight curvature of the base, it is better to install drywall (GKL). It is also called dry plaster. The technique is simple: the sheets are attached to the wall with a special glue based on gypsum. For surfaces previously infected with fungus and cured of it, it is better to choose a moisture-resistant drywall.

Technology advantages:

flawlessly leveled surface;
smooth base;
heat protection;
easy and fast enough.

The disadvantages include the following points:

additional working hands are required, since the gypsum boards are voluminous and weighty, they can break;
suitable for correcting only minor curvatures.

Tip: in the absence of assistants, the sheets can be divided into several plates, but it will be more difficult to mount them on one level and additionally you will have to putty the joints.

A complicated version of the use of drywall on a frame structure. With strict adherence to the instructions, thorough preparation, this method is also available to a beginner. Its purpose is:

elimination of solid distortions;
maintaining and increasing the amount of heat.

The main disadvantage of this method is a decrease in the area of \u200b\u200bthe room.

Installation technology: a frame is installed, the racks of which are placed in one plane. Areas between the wall, drywall and frame components are filled with heat and sound insulation material.

The most difficult method and at the same time traditional and often used is "wet" plastering. Leveling surfaces plastering in apartments where the walls are relatively flat, the stage is not necessary. But with significant defects in the bases, you cannot do without it.

The composition of the solution includes substances containing cement and strengthening additives. There are also gypsum-based mixtures. Two spatulas are used as layering tools. One is working with the wall, the second is applying the mixture to the first.

Walls with a strong roll will require more mix and time. It will be necessary to use plumb lines, level and beacons. Technology: one beacon is installed on the flattest and most remote area. Then they are connected with each other by a thread, along which other beacons are placed. The level is required to place marks in a single plane.

One layer of plaster may be sufficient. But if cracks are visible, the procedure must be repeated until the defects disappear.

Step 6. Putty the base

The goal of this stage is to make the wall as smooth as possible and susceptible to gluing a new decorative layer, as well as to give the base a single color, usually white. Putty surfaces required even for plasterboard leveling.

You need to act like this:

Prepare a gypsum-based solution, following the instructions on the label. You can knead with a construction mixer. Since the solution dries quickly, you do not need to cook a lot at once.
The putty layer is applied in a circular motion with a spatula. It is appropriate and effective to put several layers, each of them should dry.
The final layer should be very neat, to exclude possible traces from the working tool.
The dried wall requires the action of fine-grain sandpaper, with its help any roughness will be eliminated.

Step 7. Primer again

Final priming of the wall increases the level of adhesion (adhesion). The mixture holds small particles together, due to which the wallpaper adheres firmly to the wall, and the putty does not crack. This is especially important when choosing heavy canvas.

The most common primer mix is \u200b\u200bdeep penetrating acrylic. Multiple layers can be made using a roller or brush.

There are also primers with the function of staining the base. They are used when the color remains uneven after the putty.

After waiting for the surface to dry after priming, you can consider the processing of the walls before gluing the wallpaper finished. Having prepared the premises in such a costly but high-quality way, there is no doubt about the successful result and satisfaction from the work done. Changing home decorations will delight all residents.

Wall treatment before gluing wallpaper - video

Unfortunately, mold and mildew on the walls are not such a rarity in our houses and apartments. Mold and mildew are formed most often in rooms where there are all the necessary conditions for their growth - dampness and heat. Very often they develop on walls covered with wallpaper, spoiling the entire interior with their appearance.

Their appearance is always a big nuisance, because it is very difficult to get rid of these unwanted neighbors, so the question of how to treat the walls from mold and mildew before pasting the wallpaper is not at all idle.

Spoiled aesthetics and more

Dark spots of fungus will appear on the wallpaper in the future.

Penetrating deep into building materials, they begin their destructive activity. Dark spots on the wallpaper, gray-green streaks on the walls, unpleasant slimy or shaggy surface of the affected areas are unlikely to add aesthetics to your interior.

At the same time, the neighborhood with such representatives also does not bode well for the health of the inhabitants of the apartment - allergies, asthma and other diseases can be caused by these smallest living organisms.

Their distinctive feature is their reproduction by spores. Spreading with dust throughout the house, these spores fill every corner. Getting on the skin, mucous membranes or in the respiratory tract, they become a source of allergens and toxins.

As a result, after the appearance of mold and mildew in the house, all its inhabitants, sooner or later, may become patients of an allergist, dermatologist or ENT specialist.

The causes of the appearance of the fungus

The main cause of infection is dampness

Mold and mildew that often infect our homes are close relatives of the common forest mushrooms that many of us love to collect.

The mycelium itself is located deep in the nutrient layer, and what we see from the outside is only its fruiting bodies, which appear during ripening, for the spread of spores.

If for the forest mycelium the soil is the nutritious base, then for the "domestic mushrooms" construction materials play this role.

Moreover, the fungus is extremely unpretentious and can grow with equal success on wood, brick, concrete, drywall, etc.

The only condition necessary for the growth of mycelium is high humidity and freezing temperatures.

And the higher the humidity with the temperature in the room, the better the conditions for the rapid growth of microscopic fungi.

Before you start dealing with them, you should find out and eliminate the cause of the excessive dampness. Without this, any attempt to get rid of unwanted neighbors will be doomed to failure.

Favorable conditions for the development of mold on the wallpaper can be created for several reasons:

Fresh air must be circulated

To check whether they function at all, it is enough to bring a lighted match or candle to the ventilation grill.

By the vibration of the flame, it will be possible to immediately determine whether there is an air current in the system, as well as its intensity. If there is no air movement, then, most likely, the system is clogged somewhere or blocked.

Ventilation is not provided in low-quality windows

Often the reason for the accumulation of condensation in the room is low-quality plastic windows. In pursuit of savings, homeowners purchase economy-class windows made of a cheap profile, which do not provide special valves for gas exchange in the room.

As a result, the room is simply sealed: the accumulated moisture has nowhere to go, and it settles on the inner surfaces in the form of the smallest condensation.

The situation is aggravated by an insufficiently powerful ventilation system and walls made of moisture-proof materials.

Moisture penetration from the roof or basement

Dampness can also enter the room from the outside. For example, with a leaking roof or insufficient waterproofing of the floors between the living room and the basement.

Accumulating under the wallpaper, dampness becomes a favorable environment for the development of fungus.

To eliminate this problem, first of all, you should fix the roof or improve the waterproofing of the floor. There are ways.

Non-compliance with construction technologies

A variety of violations of building codes can cause dampness of walls. It can be used for interior wall decoration materials with waterproofing properties, as well as:

Pasting walls with water-repellent materials such as roofing felt or plastic wrap.
Use of vapor-impermeable materials as a heater - polystyrene, penofol, penoplex, etc.
Pasting walls with wallpaper on a non-woven basis.

After all the immediate causes of mold have been eliminated, you can start fighting the fungus.

Wall treatments

The easiest solution for fungus is lime

A number of special preparations have been developed to combat fungal infections of structural surfaces. In addition, there are a number of homemade recipes for cleaning mold and mildew from your wall.

In building supermarkets, you can find a wide range of factory antiseptic and bactericidal agents designed to combat fungal infections of building structures.

The table contains a list of the most common drugs of domestic and imported production.

The drugs listed above can be used both to combat an existing focus of mold spread, and as a preventive measure. All antifungal wall treatment is performed in several stages.

Surface preparation

Before applying the antiseptic to the wall, it should be properly prepared. First of all, it is necessary to remove all finishing from the affected areas - old wallpaper, plaster, putty up to the bare wall.

Old finishing material contaminated with fungus should be disposed of in the trash can, carefully collecting it. The fact is that spores of the fungus are very tenacious and, if improperly disposed of construction waste, can again cause its development.

All coatings must be stripped off before processing.

To remove the old finish, you can use any available tools: spatula, hammer, chisel, old hatchet, etc. To make old wallpaper easier to come off, they should be thoroughly moistened with warm water and left for half an hour.

We also completely dismantle and dispose of plaster infused with mycelium. After the wall is completely free of interior decoration, you should carefully inspect it. If it is damp to the touch, you will need to thoroughly dry it with a heat gun or a hair dryer.

Work the walls twice

After that, we treat it with antiseptic solutions. They can be applied with a regular paint brush, sponge or roller. For greater efficiency, this process should be performed twice - the second layer is applied after the first one has completely dried.

After the supporting base has been thoroughly treated with an antifungal solution, you can begin to restore the decorative finish. The wall is primed and plastered, while special attention should be paid to the joints of the old plaster with the new one.

They must be pre-cleaned from dust and loose particles. Also, the edge of the old plaster mortar must be thoroughly impregnated with a primer for better adhesion to the fresh mortar. For instructions on getting rid of the fungus, see this video:

After the freshly applied plaster has dried sufficiently, its surface should again be treated with antiseptics twice to avoid "relapse". Then you can start pasting new wallpaper.

Wallpaper pasting

If you have removed the old coating only in one place affected by the fungus, then to restore the decorative topcoat, you will have to purchase similar wallpapers and combine the pattern. However, it should be borne in mind that such restoration work does not guarantee success at all.

Freshly pasted wallpapers will still stand out from the old ones with their richer and brighter colors. This is not so important if the area to be repaired is usually hidden behind massive furniture - a wardrobe or a "wall". But even in this case, the dissonance between old and new wallpaper is insignificant only until you decide to rearrange the room, therefore, when repairing sections of the wall affected by the fungus, it is recommended to completely remove the old wallpaper and replace it with new one.

Before pasting new wallpaper, the entire cleaned wall, taking this opportunity, should also be treated with antifungal drugs. So to speak, "in order to avoid" - for preventive purposes, since mold and mildew spores can survive for many years.

For wallpapering, you can choose a glue with the addition of fungicides

Only after carrying out a multi-stage and very time-consuming procedure can you get rid of the fungus with a large, but not 100% certainty, so you should always remember that it is much easier to prevent fungus than to destroy it.

During construction and finishing work, comply with building codes. Pay special attention to such serious phenomena as a leaking roof, damp walls, inoperative ventilation and eliminate them in time.

Despite the constantly growing variety of finishing materials, wallpaper is still the most popular material. They first appeared on the construction market more than a hundred years ago, and from that moment practically nothing has changed - the technologies for gluing them to the surface have remained the same. However, it was not without innovation - new types of wallpaper appeared, and the materials used for the production of wallpaper became more diverse. If our grandmothers had only wallpaper, which are boring paper canvases with a standard pattern, then, thanks to modern abundance, we got a unique opportunity to create original and stylish interiors. In addition, new, most effective types of glue have appeared, gradually replacing the adhesives that were previously used. But it must be remembered that the changes did not affect the wallpapering technology, which is a serious and extremely responsible business. It would seem, what can be difficult in wallpapering? Nothing, but only if the walls are properly prepared, the neglect of which can lead to a deterioration in the quality and appearance of even the most expensive wallpaper. What is the preparation of the walls for DIY wallpapering? What are its main stages? And also how the principles of preparing walls for gluing change depending on the type of wall covering - you will find answers to these and other questions in our article.

Why is it necessary to prepare walls for wallpapering?

Our parents, underestimating the importance of preparing walls for wallpapering, often encountered difficulties in the process of using the finishing material. Apart from the "leveling" of the surface with the help of a newspaper, which helps to increase its roughness and prevents premature peeling of the wallpaper, the walls were decorated without preliminary preparation, which subsequently negatively affected the quality of the coating. To be clear, consider how the lack of wall preparation affects the life and quality of the decorated surface.

Lower quality of wallpaper gluingdue to the presence of pores on an unprepared surface. As a result of gluing wallpaper to such a surface, voids are formed, and the wallpaper is glued only 50%. You can make sure of this by carrying out dismantling measures - wallpaper glued to a porous surface will be easily removed. In addition, the low quality of adhesion of the wallpaper to the surface causes the seams to diverge between some panels during the first month after they were glued;
Uneven walls - a problem that even the densest wallpapers cannot hide. If you plan to visually hide minor irregularities by properly organizing artificial lighting, then you should not count on a 100% result, since in daylight even the smallest flaws will be striking;
The appearance of mold and mildew - a problem especially relevant for walls in direct contact with the street. If you find even the smallest cracks on such a wall, they must be immediately eliminated, since cold and moisture entering through them will create favorable microclimatic conditions for the appearance of mold and mildew.

How to prepare walls for DIY wallpapering: the main steps

Most traditional wallpaper, unlike non-woven wallpaper, is not a high-quality masking material. They are so thin that they are unable to hide even the smallest irregularities.

Important! Regardless of the material from which the wall is made, in places of even minor irregularities, the wallpaper eventually loses its presentation, wipes and tears, whether it is a concrete surface or a plasterboard wall.

In short, the preparation of walls for wallpapering consists of the following steps:

Cleaning the surface from old material;
Primary primer- a set of measures to ensure the necessary dryness and cleanliness of the surface;
Plaster - a dry mixture that is diluted with water. The prepared solution is applied if significant irregularities and cracks are found on the surface;
Putty- one of the stages of surface preparation, the purpose of which is not so much leveling, but to reduce the surface roughness and better adhere the wallpaper. After the putty is completely dry, it is necessary to remove all sagging and bumps formed during its application. To do this, you need a spatula or abrasive mesh;
Re-primer- an event for which it is necessary to duplicate the stages of the primary primer. Considering that the surface to be trimmed is almost ready, the amount of the mixture spent on the primer will be much less.

Let's consider in more detail each of the above stages.

Dismantling old material

The first step in preparing the walls for wallpapering is to remove the old material. Regardless of whether the walls were painted or covered with wallpaper, this stage is mandatory, since refusal to carry it out will cause irregularities on the repaired surface.

How to remove old wallpaper?

Given that wallpaper is the most common material, first of all, we will discuss how to dismantle them. There is a standard algorithm of actions, following which you can efficiently carry out this event. Let's consider it in more detail:

First, prepare a warm water solution by adding a small amount of household detergent;
Using a rag or soft sponge, moisten a small area of \u200b\u200bthe wall surface (about 2 square meters) abundantly;
After 10 minutes, pry the moistened wallpaper with a spatula or other sharp object and carefully separate it from the wall.

Important!One of the advantages of this method is the absence of dust when removing the wallpaper.

Despite the standardization of the wallpaper stripping process, it requires a complex multi-faceted approach, during which the type of wallpaper must be taken into account.
If the above method of removing wallpaper is suitable for the paper version, then in order to dismantle denser wallpaper, it needs to be slightly modernized.

Thicker vinyl and non-woven wallpaper consists of two layers: a waterproof top and a paper bottom. With this in mind, remember that ordinary wetting will not bring the desired result, and, in this regard, it is necessary to make cuts on their surface and only then moisten. In this case, after 15 minutes, you can easily remove the wallpaper. You can also make it easier to remove thick double-layer wallpaper with a needle roller, which can be used to break the top waterproof layer of the wallpaper. When working with this tool, try to use it with the utmost care to prevent possible damage to the wall surface.
Removing vinyl wallpaper is also done in several steps.
Washable wallpaper can also be removed in layers, while the lower paper layer requires special skills, as it is resistant to moisture. It can be removed by making notches and moistening thoroughly with water, or you can simplify the task and use a steam iron or steam generator.

Important! To make it easier to remove heavy vinyl wallpaper, you can use:

Steam generators , with which you can actively moisten the wallpaper with steam;

Special environmentally friendly solutions , with which you can also dissolve the paper layer.

We must not forget about another type of wallpaper, in the process of removing which difficulties may arise. We are talking about liquid wallpaper. If your walls are covered with liquid wallpaper, make sure you need it before removing them. Perhaps, the walls painted with water-based paint will become an excellent addition to your new renovation, and then the need to remove liquid wallpaper will disappear. If you still plan to refresh the room by gluing, for example, photo wallpaper, then you need to remove the old wallpaper. This can be done in two ways:

manual, using a scraper and warm water with a primer diluted in it;
using an industrial hair dryer.

If old wallpaper is glued to a drywall surface, in the process of removing it and preparing the drywall walls for wallpapering, difficulties may also arise, since a distinctive feature of drywall is a strong adhesion to wallpaper of all types. To remove wallpaper from a plasterboard surface, you will need the cheapest wallpaper glue, which must be diluted to a kefir consistency and smeared with wallpaper. After applying the composition, wait until the wallpaper swells and remove it with a spatula.

How to remove old paint?

Preparing painted walls for wallpapering begins with removing old paint, since even a small piece of paint left on the wall will negatively affect the quality of the future finish. This can be done in several ways:

Sander, using which, you literally cut off the paint, crumbling it into dust. Experts recommend giving preference to this method when it comes to large areas. The disadvantage of using a grinder is the large amount of dust that forms during operation;
Building hair dryer is another device that can be used to remove old paint. Using a hair dryer, you can dry the paint with a hair dryer and then simply remove with a spatula. These manipulations can only be performed in a well-ventilated room, since the paint begins to emit harmful substances during the heating process, which are strictly prohibited to inhale for a long time;
Paint removers - chemical mixtures that destroy paintwork. Given the toxicity of such compounds, in the process of working with them, you must carefully follow the precautions, and also follow the accompanying instructions.

Surface priming

Preparing walls for wallpapering, regardless of their type, almost always includes priming the surface. Carrying out this event helps to improve adhesion of the coating to the surface and remove dust. In addition, the wall covered with a primer absorbs moisture to a lesser extent, which further contributes to the quick drying of the putty. Using a wide brush, apply the primer to the surface until a white foam forms. Some experts recommend applying the primer twice: the first time - after dismantling the old material before directly applying the putty, the second - applying an impromptu primer, that is, diluted wallpaper glue, before gluing the wallpaper.

In the process of working with a primer, it is important to remember the features of working with this material:

The primer mixture must be applied evenly over the entire surface with a roller, and in hard-to-reach places, use a brush;
If, when applying the primer, you notice that the composition is instantly absorbed into the wall, apply a few more additional layers;
After waiting for the primer to dry, proceed to rough surface leveling.

When is it necessary to plaster the walls?

Plastering is an essential step in preparing uneven walls for wallpapering. Often you have to deal with this in an old apartment or in a new building. If you have to finish a brick surface, it is recommended to use cement-sand plaster during its preparation, while concrete walls are prepared using a gypsum mixture. For the price, it is several times higher than the cement-sand mixture, but the latter is laid with a thicker layer and is often supplemented with a reinforcing mesh.

Important!If you found minor irregularities on the surface to be finished and, at the same time, preferred dense vinyl or structural non-woven wallpaper, in the process of preparing the walls for gluing vinyl wallpaper, you can refuse to use plaster, since dense wallpaper will easily hide minor irregularities and minimal wall defects. In the process of preparing the walls for gluing non-woven wallpaper, you can also do without plaster.

Most often, in the process of plastering walls, ready-made mixtures are used, which must be dissolved in water in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. To ensure effective mixing and preparation of a high-quality mixture, you can use a drill equipped with a mixer attachment.
After preparing the solution, it must be applied in a thin layer to the surface until all existing irregularities and cracks are completely eliminated. The layer to be applied should be as thin as possible to prevent cracking after drying.
After the entire surface is plastered, wait until the applied mixture is completely dry (the waiting period is determined by the thickness of the applied layer).

Important! Before you start plastering the surface, place a basin with water next to it and wet the spatula during work, which will prevent the particles of dried plaster from sticking to it.

After the solution has dried, you can proceed to the next stage of preparation - putty.

Surface putty: application rules

Plastering the walls is an obligatory stage in their preparation before gluing the wallpaper. Putty on the plastered walls will reduce the surface roughness, which will ensure high-quality gluing of the wallpaper;
Before starting work, cover the floor with unnecessary paper or cellophane, then thoroughly sand the walls;
With firm movements, apply a putty layer on the wall from bottom to top, level the surface with a wide spatula. Experts say that in the process of applying putty, it is important to press on the left side of the spatula, which will ensure the most even laying of layers and the absence of waves;
After putting putty on the wall, wait for it to dry (the period of time allotted for this is limited by the manufacturer);
After the putty is dry, sand the treated surface so that it becomes smooth and even;
Shake off dust generated during work, vacuum the floors and walls.
At the end of all work, re-prime the surface, duplicating the actions of the primary primer. Considering the readiness of the surface, less primer mixture will be spent.

Preparing walls for wallpapering in a new building

When settling in a new building, residents hope to see perfectly smooth walls, but often the reality turns out to be deplorable, and in fact they have to face uneven and dusty concrete walls.

The preparation of such walls is as follows:

Spatter a layer of spray on the wall (first layer of creamy plaster). The thickness of the layer varies from 0.1 to 1 cm and depends on the degree of unevenness and roughness of the walls;
After the spray is slightly dry, apply a second layer of plaster 0.5 cm thick, which must be carefully leveled;
The final stage is the application of a third layer of plaster with a thickness of 0.2-0.4 cm, called a cover. After waiting for it to dry, grout with a special float.

Preparing walls for gluing liquid wallpaper

If you prefer liquid wallpaper, surface preparation before gluing has its own characteristics.

To ensure the flawless appearance of the surface finished with liquid wallpaper, follow the presented algorithm:
Remove all dirt from the treated wall;
If the walls in your house are characterized by increased porosity and a large number of small irregularities, putty them with a gypsum mixture;
Apply a primer mixture to the surface. If you plan to glue liquid wallpaper in an old house, apply the primer in two coats to avoid unexpected stains;
Paint the wall. Experts recommend giving preference to white paint, as darker shades will shine through liquid wallpaper.

Preparing yusbi walls for wallpapering has its own characteristics.

The main stage in the preparation of walls from OSB slabs involves sealing the seams between the slabs using a serpyanka, after which they are putty in the same way as described above.
After that, it is necessary to prime the walls - an obligatory stage in the preparation of the walls, due to which not only an additional protective layer is created, but also the adhesive characteristics of the surface significantly increase.
The further stages of preparation generally do not differ from that when gluing wallpaper to other traditional and more common surfaces.

It is no secret to anyone that preparation is a very important stage in any construction work. Wallpaper is no exception. Despite the fact that this stage, at first glance, is subtle, it is very important, since the correct preparation affects the success of the main work. The service life of the wallpaper, the quality of its pasting, etc. - it all depends on how carefully the walls and partitions of the room were processed before gluing the wallpaper.

Primary requirements

Of course, before starting work on wallpapering, it is necessary to thoroughly process the walls. Let's try to explain why this is necessary. First of all, it should be borne in mind that any repairs are done not for a couple of months, but at least for several years. That is why it must be done efficiently.

For best results, you must carefully and correctly prepare the walls of the room.

For this reason, it is necessary to go to certain time and money costs in order to ensure the high quality of the repair performed and the long service life of the pasted wallpaper, regardless of their size or type.

So, what are the basic requirements for wall preparation before wallpapering? What should their surface look like? Let's list the main things:

the surface should not be wet under any conditions. Dry walls are ideal for getting started. If they are not dry enough or there is a high level of atmospheric humidity in the room, ventilate the room or turn on the heater for a while, which will "dry" the air, and at the same time the walls themselves;
the walls must be thoroughly washed beforehand. In addition, they should not have any stains, and, moreover, mold or mildew, which could later appear through the new pasted wallpaper. For this, after you have processed the surface of the wall, it must be carefully primed;
of course, there should be no old wallpaper on the wall, as well as other peeling or peeling residues on the wall. This must be done in order to protect future wallpaper from the appearance of "bubbles" and swelling that may appear in such places.

It is very important to carefully remove old wallpaper

So, in order for the walls of your apartment or country house to meet the above requirements, you should do the following:

Get rid of a layer or several layers of old wallpaper completely. Dismantling should be done carefully, without damaging the wall surface.
Further, the surface is treated with sandpaper (sanding), and, if necessary, splicing.
After applying the putty, some areas may need to be treated with a primer. Finally, the preparatory work is completed.

So, let's dwell on these stages in more detail.

How to process walls: first steps

To begin with, we need to carry out a high-quality and thorough dismantling of the old wallpaper that was pasted on the wall before the repair.

Remove everything unnecessary from the room: pieces of furniture, clothes, personal items. Care should be taken when removing skirting boards, as old-style wooden skirting boards can break when trying to remove them. As professional repairmen testify in their numerous reviews, such a simple technique as using an ordinary cloth soaked in water to soak the old wallpaper layer can help you.

Photo: freeing the room from furniture, then removing nails and screws from the walls and partitions

Then, you should make sure that there are no foreign objects left on the wall surface, including old nails, screws, dowels, etc. If necessary, delete them. At the end of the preliminary stage of preparing and processing the walls, carefully examine the surface of the walls of the room, making sure that it is ready for the next stage of work.

Attention! Avoid pasting new wallpapers over old ones! This is a prerequisite for a good repair, because otherwise, after the repair, the texture or pattern of the old layer may appear on the surface, as well as bubbles may appear.

Leveling and filling the walls

If necessary, the walls will need to be leveled. The leveling itself can be done with plaster. Depending on the curvature or depth of damage or irregularities in the wall, the plaster layer can also vary in thickness.

The plastering stage requires the preparation of a plaster mortar (mixture) as well as the ability to work with spatulas. Please note that the application of the plaster should be done strictly from the bottom up. After leveling with plaster, we just have to check the evenness

An important step is the priming of the wall surface.

the resulting surface using a long level or right andla. If it is not at hand, and you do not want to spend extra money on its purchase, then the usual plumb line will be enough.

In the event that, after a thorough check of the plastered surface, some shortcomings were identified, they should be eliminated with putty. To do this, you should purchase a standard, inexpensive wall putty, available at almost any hardware store. Puttying can be carried out in several stages, especially in cases with deep cracks and chips in the plaster.

Completion of work

After finishing puttying, the last stage begins - surface treatment with finishing sanding paper. First of all, you should make sure that the putty is completely frozen. After that, you can start sanding the wall. It is best to fix the sandpaper on a special grater. A simple, even bar will do.

Efforts to process the wall with sandpaper should be uniform. After you have sanded the surface of all the walls in the room, once again treat them with a primer, wait until it dries - and you can start gluing the wallpaper. Video instruction:

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However, it is worth noting that the wallpaper pasted on the gypsum board, worked out in this way, cannot be removed, painlessly for the walls.

Option two - standard

Suitable for any type of wallpaper. After priming and processing the joints and corners, it is necessary to cover the surface with a starting putty, then sand and putty again - this time with a finishing compound.

Be sure to reapply the primer over the second coat. On drywall, prepared in this way, it will be easy to glue the wallpaper, and later it will also be easy to remove this wallpaper from it.

Option three - perfect

This is the most time consuming and long-lasting option, which is used if the wallpaper is combined with other decor - for example, painting or Venetian plaster.

Putty the wall three times, rubbing each layer with sandpaper: starting putty, then again using it, then glue the fiberglass on the wall (“cobweb”), then apply the finishing putty.

The end result is a surface that rivals natural, premium silk in terms of smoothness. Such a result will definitely be guaranteed by real professional plasterers.