How to cover a wooden house with linseed oil. Drying oil: what is it, composition and properties. Not natural - linseed oil varnish

Drying oil is a film-forming composition based on oils or alkyd resins. Found its application in construction and painting works. It is used by:

in the production of oil paints;
for diluting paints;
to wet metal / wood.

After application, a film is formed that protects the wood from negative external influences. With the help of it, it will turn out to save paint consumption. It often acts as a primer.

Varieties

Drying oil is available in several types.

Natural

Has no pronounced odor. This composition is characterized by the presence of a thick consistency. The degree of transparency depends on the type of oil. The lightest is the drying oil, in the manufacture of which the highest grade linseed oil was used. If hemp oil was used, the solution will turn dark brown. The percentage of oil in the composition is 95%. Therefore, it is harmless and suitable for work inside a confined space.

After applying the composition, a strong, plastic and weather-resistant film is formed.

Semi-natural

For the production of this type, compacted vegetable oils are used, for diluting which to the desired consistency, evaporating solvents are used. Drying and semi-drying oils are used in the production.

As a result of the evaporation of the solvent, a hard film is formed. If we compare it with natural drying oil, then the semi-natural look has a smaller thickness, but at the same time it turns out to be harder with a less pronounced gloss at the output. In terms of durability, the semi-natural look is inferior to the natural counterpart. The film quickly loses its elasticity - this is due to the evaporation of solvents.

Such drying oil is used when painting in buildings of I and II classes.

Combined

In the production of this type, oils are used (it can be linseed, soybean, corn and not only) and about 30% of the solvent (white alcohol, nefras and not only are used).

This composition is cheaper than the above options. It is characterized by the presence of a pungent odor, which does not evaporate for some time.

After drying, a dense film forms. This type has found its application for outdoor work, less often for internal work.

Synthetic

The cheapest option. In the manufacture of the composition, natural oils (about 35%) can be used or they can do without them at all - in this case, refined products are used. This species is characterized by the presence of a light color with a red tint and a pungent smell. The synthetic look is characterized by uneven properties, for example, drying oil, the basis of which is fus, does not dry out after application and cannot be painted.

Using natural drying oil for wood

To improve performance and extend its service life, the tree needs proper treatment with protective agents, one of which is drying oil.

Often linseed oil also acts as a primer for painting / varnishing.

The use of different types of drying oils

It is irrational to use a natural look for outdoor work, as this entails large financial costs. It is more suitable for thinning paints, for use as a primer and complementary component of plaster / filler materials.

Semi-natural formulations are not suitable for rooms with high humidity. It is most relevant to use them for impregnating plywood, fiberboard in dry rooms.

The combined view is relevant for priming wooden surfaces.

Many articles write that it is impossible to process wooden buildings outside with synthetic linseed oil. This is not true. This can be done. Then the building should be painted. But it is not recommended to process it indoors with such a composition, since it is characterized by the presence of a pungent odor, which does not disappear so quickly.

Surface treatment with linseed oil

Before treating the surface of the wood, you need to degrease it; for this, a solvent is used. The treated wood must be dry.

Consider a few recipes:

Wood processing with hot linseed oil. Suitable for impregnation of small-sized wooden parts. Process: put a wood element in a jar / plate and heat it in a water bath for 4-8 hours. After this time, leave the item for 4-5 days - during this time it will dry.
Composition recipe: drying oil + kerosene. We connect both components in the same proportions. The wood can be impregnated in a cold / hot way. If you choose the second option, the product is soaked for about three hours, if it is the cold method - 2 days. Drying time is 2-3 days.
Linseed oil + turpentine + paraffin in a ratio of 5: 1: 8. First, mix the turpentine and paraffin, and then add the drying oil. We warm in a water bath. Apply the composition while it is warm. Drying time is 3 days.
Drying oil + wax in a ratio of 20: 3. After the drying oil has been heated in a water bath, wax should be added. Apply the composition to the wood in a warm form. Drying time is 3 days.

Drying oil is a film-forming substance made from natural or artificial ingredients. Drying oils are used as independent primers, as well as one of the components of more complex formulations. In addition, drying oils can be used as an independent material for decorative and protective wood processing.

Varieties of drying oils

The existing lineups can be divided into the following groups:

natural;
semi-natural;
combined;
synthetic.

Natural formulations

Natural type drying oils are made from vegetable oils. Compositions of this variety are made in accordance with the requirements of GOST 7931-76. The most suitable chemical is linseed oil, although hemp, sunflower or tung oil can also be used.

Natural drying oils contain only a very small percentage of chemical additives. The main component added to the impregnation is a desiccant, which is a substance that accelerates the drying process.

It is impractical to use natural compounds for processing facades due to high financial costs. In addition, the treated surface will not be protected from fungus, mold and harmful insects.

Wood is primed with natural raw materials before applying paint and varnish. Also, natural compounds are used as a primer and as a component of paint and varnish primers, putty, plaster compositions. Such drying oils are also used for the treatment of indoor surfaces.

The drying time of the composition, subject to the optimal air temperature (20 degrees above zero), is about a day. The lightest of all types of impregnation is sunflower, linseed is noticeably darker, and the darkest is hemp.

Compositions made from various raw materials have their own characteristics. For example, hemp drying oils are used to dilute dark, thick-grated paints.

Sunflower impregnations are distinguished by the longest drying time - 24 hours at optimal air temperature and humidity. Moreover, this is the minimum period, but in practice, the surface, even after a day, is likely to remain slightly damp. Sunflower formulations have a strong side - increased elasticity. At the same time, in terms of such an important indicator as hardness, sunflower impregnations are inferior to linseed and hemp varieties.

Semi-natural formulations

Semi-natural drying oils (oxols) are also made from oil (usually sunflower oil), but differ from natural compositions by the presence of a large amount of an organic solvent - White spirit. Its share reaches 40%. Also semi-natural impregnations include driers (about 5%). No in semi-natural solutions of mineral oils and surrogates. The standard for the manufacture of this type of drying oil is GOST 190-78.

The scope of use of oxol is the same as for natural formulations. Most often, semi-natural solutions are used for combination with oil paints or as a primer. Such drying oils are not suitable for treating surfaces in a bath, but can be used, for example, for impregnating fiberboard, plywood, lining in drier rooms.

Semi-natural formulations dry a little faster than natural ones, and the material consumption is 1m2 less. In addition, the cost of their production is lower.

The color of semi-natural impregnations is light brown. The film that appears on the surface of the processed material is characterized by hardness and good resistance to moisture. However, the strength of this type of drying oil is still not enough to be used for treating surfaces that are exposed to increased mechanical stress (for example, floors).

Combined formulations

Combined mixtures almost do not differ from semi-natural ones - they are a polymerization product of drying fats. However, there is less solvent in them (about 30%). The main advantage of combined formulations over semi-natural ones is less toxicity... Combined impregnations often contain special modifiers that increase the quality required in the manufacture of paints and varnishes.

Combined drying oils are usually used as a primer before painting wooden surfaces. Drying time of the coating - up to 24 hours.

The concept of the combined drying oil

Synthetic compounds

Synthetic impregnations are made only from artificial components - polymers. The raw material for this type of drying oil is oil, coal or waste generated in the manufacture of synthetic rubber. A characteristic feature of synthetic solutions is a dark color and a pungent unpleasant odor.

Synthetics are practically not used as an impregnating agent for wood. Most often, synthetic drying oils are used in the cultivation of dark varieties of paints and varnishes used in facade work or as a component of putties and pastes. This is the lowest quality type of drying oils, which is reflected in their cost.

Synthetic mixtures cannot be used for surface treatment inside buildings. Otherwise, a pungent odor will remain in the room for many months, and people living there risk becoming intoxicated.

Synthetics dries for a long time, and is also characterized by a variety of properties, depending on the components included in the mixture. For example, drying oils based on fuse (a red-colored liquid with a dark sediment) do not dry out at all, and if they cover the surface, the surface cannot be painted.

Osprey-based solutions dry very poorly, and when dry, the coating is a crumbling glass-like film. This impregnation is the most liquid, light and cheapest of all options on the market.

The best synthetic option is alkyd drying oil. It is less toxic than materials made from petroleum polymers. However, even this type of impregnating agent can only be used for external surfaces.

A few useful tips when buying drying oil:

It is recommended to pay attention to the composition of the product (it is indicated on the packaging), and compliance with GOST. The state standard (GOST) applies only to natural and semi-natural impregnations. Synthetics are supplied with a hygiene certificate.
The liquid must be homogeneous; there must be no deposits or mechanical particles on the bottom of the container.
It's worth looking at the transparency of the content. Natural drying oils brown (varying degrees of color saturation, depending on the type of basic raw materials). The color of synthetics also depends on the main component and can vary from a colorless liquid to auburn.

Surface treatment

Prepare the surface before drying. To do this, the wood must be degreased, dirt and dust removed from it. The material to be processed must be dry.

Application

Impregnation can be applied using several types of tools to choose from:

long-bristled brushes;
roller;
spray gun;
rags made of natural fabric.

Below are several ways to impregnate a tree with linseed oil:

Hot impregnation. Impregnation is carried out in a water bath. The method is especially good for processing small items. We put the material in a vessel with a hot solution, keeping it there for 4-8 hours, and then dry it for 4-5 days. Helpful advice: if you add to the composition (2-3% of the total volume), the surface will dry much faster - in 2-3 days.
Oil varnish with kerosene. To create a mixture, we take the indicated components in a ratio of 1 to 1. It is permissible to use both a hot and a cold solution. However, the temperature of the drying oil affects the time during which the wood must be kept. If we are talking about the hot method, it will take only 3 hours, but the cold version will take 1-2 days. Drying time of the coating is 2-3 days.
Drying oil, paraffin and turpentine. We mix 5 parts of drying oil, 1 part of turpentine and 8 parts of paraffin. And first we dissolve the paraffin in turpentine, for which we use a water bath. Next, add the required amount of drying oil and mix the mixture thoroughly. Apply the hot composition to the wood and wait until it is completely dry (this will take 2-3 days).
Drying oil with wax. For 20 parts of the base material, we take 3 parts of wax, which we grind beforehand. The surface will dry in 2-3 days.
Impregnation with a plastic bag. We take an intact bag, pour a little liquid into it. Next, we place a wooden part in the bag. We wrap the product, sealing the hole with tape. Soaking will take several hours.

During impregnation, a sufficient amount of drying oil must be applied to the surface. The liquid should saturate the wood well. When the coating is dry, apply a second coat. If necessary, the procedure can be repeated until the wood stops absorbing the solution.

Drying

The drying speed depends on several factors, the main of which are the content of the desiccant, the temperature and humidity of the air, as well as the type and quality of the drying oil.

Impregnations with polymetallic desiccants dry the fastest. For example, natural linseed oil with the addition of lead or manganese desiccant dries in 20 hours and 12 hours, respectively. However, it is worth using both of these metals, and the drying speed will not exceed 8 hours.

Drying time is directly influenced by air temperature and humidity. For example, drying an impregnation with a cobalt desiccant will take 50% less time if the air temperature is at least 25 degrees above zero. The surface treated with a compound containing manganese desiccant dries even faster (at least 2-3 times). Favorable air humidity is also important, this indicator should not exceed 70%.

After processing, the wooden part must be placed in a dry and warm place. There should be no drafts in the room. There is no need to specially heat the surface, such actions can only harm.

Advice! Drying oil is a fire hazardous and toxic material, therefore, precautions must be taken when working with it. For protection, it is recommended to use a gown, goggles and a respirator. Keep impregnated containers away from fire, electrical and gas appliances.

Replacement of drying oil

If there is no drying oil on hand, the surface can be treated with a casein solution. Such a composition will be cheaper than factory impregnation, and in its properties it is not worse at all. In addition, the casein solution dries much faster.

To prepare it, you will need 20 parts of casein, 3 parts of a soap solution and 10 parts of slaked lime. Stir the ingredients thoroughly and add 7 parts of turpentine. The consistency of the solution should resemble thick drying oil. If a sediment appears at the bottom of the container, add a little ammonia to the composition.

Drying oil is an excellent replacement for more modern and expensive methods of wood impregnation and priming. However, do not forget that not all types of this type of impregnation are suitable for use in residential premises.

For any repair and finishing work, as a rule, a lot of wood materials are used. To effectively protect the tree from the damaging effects of moisture, fungi and mold, it is impregnated with a layer of drying oil.

Features of the

During the times of the USSR, drying oil was practically the only means that was used to process wooden buildings and individual products. Now the market for materials is much higher, the industry offers a large selection of more modern and practical coatings. However, linseed oil admirers exist to this day.

The use of drying oil can significantly increase the durability of wooden structures, which is especially true for rafters, since they are highly susceptible to water and condensation.

In addition, impregnation with this composition effectively protects the coating from temperature fluctuations, high humidity and destructive weathering of all types.

When processing wood with drying oil, a film is formed on it, which is hard, but at the same time plastic. It is she who protects the material from external adverse influences, as well as from the appearance of mold and the growth of fungus. It is drying oil that will prevent wood from rotting, and in addition, its use significantly minimizes the consumption of enamels and paint, which can be used as a finishing material. As a rule, drying oil is applied in 2-3 layers, and then only painted with paints.

Another undoubted advantage of the solution is its low price and availability. Mostly, drying oil is taken for interior finishing work, but use in an open space causes only a temporary effect, which requires mandatory painting or varnishing in the future.

Specifications

The mechanism of action of drying oil is based on the physical properties of its constituent components.

If vegetable oil is applied to any surface and left in the fresh air, then under the influence of heat, sunlight and oxygen, it begins to thicken. If the oil is applied in a thin layer, then it dries up and forms a semi-solid composition.... This quality is characteristic of such oils, the main components of which are linolenic and linoleic acids. Moreover, the higher the concentration of these acids, the more pronounced they show the property of solidification.

In oils of different types, the content of these components usually varies. For example, in linseed oil they account for 80%, in hemp oil - 70%, but in sunflower and nut oil their content is less - from 30 to 45%, well, in olive oil, acids are 40%.

Mineral-based oils do not contain fatty acids at all, due to which they do not dry out in the air.

However, vegetable oils in their natural form without heat treatment are rarely oxidized, even if they contain significant amounts of fatty acids. That's why to stabilize the wood and shorten the drying period, the composition is processed and driers are introduced into it- various metal salts, which significantly reduce the oil setting time. Thanks to this composition, drying oil after application can dry from 6 to 36 hours, but, as a rule, modern means harden in a day.

The shelf life of drying oil of any type is at least 3 years.

Views

Nowadays, drying oils are presented on the market, differing in various compositions and scope of use.

Natural

This is a type of coating that is made from environmentally friendly raw materials and therefore is absolutely safe for human health. The drier included in the composition has a low percentage, therefore the speed of solidification of such a coating is slightly higher than that of other types of drying oil.

The natural product has a yellow color without foreign matter and sediments at the bottom of the container.

This product is manufactured in accordance with the requirements of GOST, according to which its technical parameters are established:

the proportion of oil to desiccants - 97 to 3;
absence of any smell of chemical reagents;
hardening at t 20-22 degrees;

hardening rate - 24 hours;
acidity level - below 5 mg / KOH;
the presence of components containing phosphorus - not more than 0.015%;
the density of the material is -0.95gr / m³.

Such drying oil is popular when processing wooden lathing and other elements that do not require further painting.

Semi-natural

The main component of such drying oil is oils, the concentration of which is slightly lower in comparison with natural versions of drying oil. As a rule, their share does not exceed 55% of the total. Base oils are diluted with driers and solvent. This product belongs to a lower price group than all other coating options and is most often used as an additive.

By the way, you can find out about its purpose by special marking:

IN- added to varnishes and paints intended for outdoor use;
PV- used in the preparation of putties;
CM- combines with a primer to improve the quality of wall and ceiling coverings.

The solvent in oxol will give her a pungent unpleasant odor, which, moreover, does not disappear for a rather long time. A surface treated with a semi-natural compound wears out quite quickly, therefore, treated wood without fail requires finishing with paints or enamels.

Combined

This type of drying oil is produced by oxidizing solidifying natural oils and introducing a solvent, and the proportion of the latter to oils is approximately 30 to 70. This composition is practically not used for decorative finishing works, it is most widespread in the manufacture of oil paints such as K2 / K4 / K12 - for interior works, and K3 / K5 - for facade.

The composition is transparent with a slight yellowish tint, the applied layer hardens in 24 hours.

Synthetic

The main difference of this type of drying oil from the rest is the use of a synthetic composition instead of natural oil, and such compositions do not have the requirements of GOST, their standards and standards for the ratio of the main components are regulated by the TU.

As a rule, such products have a low price, however, their quality matches the cost - the coating is not hygroscopic and has a very unpleasant odor. It makes no sense to use it for decoration... Such drying oils have found application in the manufacture of plaster solutions and putty mixtures.

Compositional

The main components of such fluids are oxidized oils and petrol diluted with rosin. Most often, they take linseed, cottonseed, and rapeseed oils. These drying oils suitable for facing work as a base for enamel coating and varnishing.

Manufacturers

In Russia, drying oil is made by large paint and varnish enterprises:

"Kotovsky paint and varnish plant"(Tambov Region);
"Perm paint and varnish plant"(Permian);
"Management Company ZLKZ"(Sergiev Posad);

"Ufa paint and varnish plant"(Bashkortostan);
"Azov paint and varnish plant"(Rostov region);
"Bobrovsky Experimental Plant"(Sverdlovsk region).

For many decades, drying oil has been in constant growing demand among consumers. That is why well-known and large enterprises are engaged in its manufacture.

The products of the following brands are most in demand:

"Tex"... This company sells drying oil already prepared for impregnation. It is marketed in containers from 0.5 to 8 kg. Distinctive features of the products of this brand are a high curing rate, a significant reduction in paint consumption during finishing. This drying oil can be bought as a primer.
"Coachman"... Produces an impregnating agent in strict accordance with the requirements of GOST and all SanPiNs. The goods arrive in stores in a packed form, the weight of the container is 0.8-20 kg.

Isolate... It is considered one of the highest quality materials; it is packed in containers from 0.5 to 200 liters. The disadvantage of this brand is the fact that they produce drying oil only to order and only in bulk large quantities.
"Vesta-Color"... Offers drying oil both wholesale and retail. The impregnation produced by this manufacturer is characterized by exceptional quality and excellent performance properties.
"Himtek"... Has been producing oxols for over two decades. The product of this brand has decent quality and a price affordable for the average Russian. It comes to stores in containers of various sizes, so that each consumer can buy a package that meets his volume of work.

The drying oil of the listed brands has been proving its practicality and high quality for many years, which is why, when choosing an impregnation, one should give preference to these particular manufacturers.

How to do it yourself?

If you do not have the opportunity to go to a hardware store or hardware store, but a lot of vegetable oil has accumulated at home, then it is quite possible to make linseed oil with your own hands. Most often, linseed and sunflower oils are used at home.

For home-made impregnation based on linen composition, you will need:

metal container (basin or bucket, saucepan or ladle);
heat source (gas or electric stove);
rosin;
potassium permanganate;
personal protective equipment (respirator and rubber gloves).

The technology for making drying oil is simple: for a start, oil is poured into a vessel and gradually brought to a boil - it occurs at t 110 degrees. At this moment, the oil begins to release the water contained in its composition, it begins to evaporate and bubbles form on the surface. In this way, the oil is digested for about 4 hours. Wherein it is important that the temperature of the liquid does not exceed 160 degrees.

Attention: drying oil is a flammable material of a high fire hazard class, therefore, oil must not be poured into the tank to the top - the container should be filled no more than half.

At the end of the evaporation, a desiccant is introduced into the thickened drying oil in a ratio of 30 g of substance per liter of oil. At the moment of adding this component, strong foaming begins, which can lead to injuries and burns. To prevent this from happening, drier is introduced gradually in small portions, after which the heat effect is increased to 200 degrees and the composition is continued to cook for another 3-5 hours.

To check the readiness of the solution, it is necessary to place a small drop of "home-grown" drying oil on ordinary glass, and if it is transparent, then the solution can be used.

A mixture of rosin with potassium permanganate in a ratio of 20 to 1 is used as the main drier., and first the rosin is brought to melting, and only then the permanganate is mixed into it.

Sunflower oil varnish also reliably protects wood or plywood, like flax-based liquid, the only difference is the finishing shade - linseed oil on sunflower oil will give a lighter tone.

Whichever method of self-cooking drying oil is chosen, the main principle remains the need to remove all water from the oil and achieve oxidation of all kinds of impurities. This can only be achieved through prolonged heat treatment, therefore it is necessary to be patient and protective equipment and take care of the observance of fire safety rules and good ventilation.

Scope of use

The scope of application of drying oil is directly related to its varieties and composition.

So, natural solutions are widely used for priming wood and metal surfaces, as well as porous plastered coatings. In addition, the material is used for diluting putties, thick-grated paints, lubricating pastes and all kinds of putties. Linen impregnations are often used to treat doors and window spans before finishing painting.

Hemp linseed oil is only suitable for priming all types of coatings, diluting enamels, paints and composing putties.

Drying oil-oxol has physical and technical characteristics, thanks to which it can be used together with a variety of painting materials. It is noted that oxol films have good density and glossy gloss, as well as resistance to external adverse factors. This linseed oil is deeply absorbed into any treated surface, therefore it is used to protect wood buildings, rafters and ceilings. However, it is not recommended for floor finishing.

The combined composition is a polymer olive obtained as a result of dehydration of oils with the addition of white spirit (its percentage is 30%), such drying oil has found its application in the manufacture of thickly grated paints.

Alkyd impregnation is formed from resins diluted with chemical solvents and various modified oils. These solutions are more practical and more economical than natural ones, since only 300 kg of oil are taken to produce 1 ton of such drying oil. Such compositions are optimal for wood processing and its protection from the adverse effects of atmospheric factors.

Composite drying oil differs in relatively low cost, therefore the demand for it is invariably high. It is used for effective dilution of enamels when carrying out various painting works.... It is not worth taking it for impregnation, since almost all the film will remain on the surface of the wood. It should be emphasized that this composition has a rather pungent unpleasant odor, and it is rather problematic to get rid of the room. Therefore, all work is best done either outdoors or in an apartment with good ventilation.

Summarizing all of the above, we can conclude that the main areas of use of drying oil can be considered:

priming of plastered surfaces and concrete for painting;
production of putties and mastics;
impregnation of wood products;
making putty;
high-quality preparation of thickly grated paints for work;
dilution of liquid paints and enamels.

Consumption for 1 m²

For surface treatment, drying oil is applied quite abundantly, this allows the wood fibers to be well impregnated. If deep penetration of the composition is required, then the drying oil should be heated to 80-90 degrees.

For to process 1 square meter of surface, you need 130 ml of drying oil... As a rule, this volume is enough for 2-3 layers. However, in some cases, there is a need for additional impregnation.

If drying oil is used to dilute paint, then there is no strict proportion in which the compositions need to be diluted - oil is injected until the paint reaches a consistency suitable for work, that is, until the composition acquires the required degree of density. This method allows you to significantly reduce paint consumption and, accordingly, costs for it without the slightest damage to the quality of painting work.

Application

Let's dwell a little on the technology of using drying oil for wood impregnation.

To begin with, all wooden elements are cleaned of dust, dirt and degreased. To apply a layer of drying oil, use a long-bristled brush, paint roller, paint sprayer, or a plain cotton cloth. The most important thing is that as much of the oil composition as possible is applied to the wood coating..

After the drying oil is absorbed, you need to apply another layer and thus repeat the steps until the surface to be treated is unable to absorb it.

Important: sometimes after using drying oil, a little impregnation remains, as well as the tools with which it was applied. It should be remembered that the impregnation belongs to materials with a high fire hazard class and any fabric on which drying oil gets on is prone to fire. Therefore, they must be stored in a well protected place away from the source of fire.

Drying time

The drying time of drying oil directly depends on the type of impregnation and the method of its application:

Small items are soaked hot in a hot water bath - the processed material is placed in a hot oil tank for 4-8 hours, and then dried for about 5 days.
If you introduce a little red lead into such drying oil, the tree will be ready for use much faster - in 2-3 days.
Oil impregnation with the addition of kerosene dries for about 48-72 hours, but compositions based on drying oil, turpentine and paraffin will be ready for use after 2 days.
Drying oil with the inclusion of wax also dries for about 2 days. In rare cases, it may take 3 days for complete saturation and hardening.

When buying drying oil, it is very important to focus on the following points:

Natural linseed oil always has a dark brown color, so if you have a transparent liquid in front of you, then there is a high probability that it is a compositional composition or is simply a fake.
The bottle should not contain any suspended matter and impurities of foreign substances.
Pay particular attention to the composition of the proposed product, which is indicated on the label and on the label itself. It must indicate the manufacturer of drying oil and its coordinates, as well as the used GOST or TU and instructions for use.

When building and decorating houses, wood is often used, because it is one of the most environmentally friendly materials. However, in order for the wooden elements of your home to last as long as possible, so that they are not destroyed by fungi and insects, they must be protected. This task is easily handled by such a tool as drying oil.

Application of impregnation

The use of drying oil allows you to increase the service life of wooden structural elements for decades. This is especially true of rafters, because they are constantly exposed to moisture. Liners are synthetic and natural, purely homogeneous, polydiene, synthetically modified, shale, coumarone-indene, etc. The use of this tool will not harm either people or animals. Indeed, it is based on vegetable oil (up to 97%). The linseed oil impregnation of facade wooden elements allows them to be protected from temperature changes and air humidity and, of course, from atmospheric influences. When processing a wooden surface with this composition, a hard, but elastic one is formed on it, which protects the tree from external influences, including from damage by a fungus. Natural drying oil is made from sunflower, soybean, the best is a product based on linseed oil.

Currently, there are many chemical-based impregnations with excellent, by the way, characteristics. But at the same time, drying oil has not lost its relevance. The use of natural impregnation, in addition to environmental friendliness, has another important advantage - the cheapness of such material. Basically linseed oil is intended for interior decoration, its use in outdoor work gives only a temporary effect that requires further coating with oil or varnish. In the manufacture of putties, drying oil is also used. The use of such products protects wooden surfaces from decay. The use of drying oil as a pretreatment also reduces varnish when performing paintwork. Usually the product is applied in two or three layers, and after that the surface is painted. It is also recommended to heat the impregnation to a temperature of 80-90 degrees Celsius, and then apply it hot to the tree. Thus, a better and deeper penetration of the composition into the pores of the tree is achieved.

Drying oil: impregnation characteristics

Three types of drying oil are now widespread: natural, "Oksol" and compositional. Natural impregnation consists of 97 percent natural oil, the other three percent is a desiccant (a substance that helps to dry quickly). Linseed oil "Oksol" in its composition contains only 55 percent oil (linseed or sunflower), forty percent white spirit and 5 percent desiccant. Such impregnation is cheaper than natural. Composite compositions are characterized by a pungent odor, they include petroleum resins, which serve as substitutes for natural resins, as well as other petrochemical products. This type of drying oil is the cheapest. Composite impregnations are not recommended for use in residential premises, even on balconies, because even after these compounds dry, there is still a sharp characteristic odor.

Drying oil (oil) is a film-forming substance that is made on the basis of any natural oil. For example, using rapeseed or soybean, linseed, sunflower and other oils.

What is drying oil for? The main purpose is wood surface treatment. Also used as a base for oil paints. For quick drying, a desiccant is introduced into its composition. The main task of which is to prevent the surface from changes resulting from external influences.

The product can easily be bought in specialty stores, but sometimes a large selection makes you wonder which one is better and better quality? It turns out that you can cook drying oil with your own hands. Most often it is done at home. based on linseed and sunflower oil... It is these two natural components that have been used to make drying oil since ancient times.

Operating principle

If you leave vegetable oils in air, then under the influence of oxygen, heat and light, they thicken. In a thinner layer, they dry out and turn into a semi-solid mixture. This feature is inherent in oils, which contain fatty acids such as linoleic and linolenic. The more acids, the higher the drying property of the oils. The amount of fatty acids in different oils is not the same:

linseed - 80%;
hemp - 70%;
sunflower, poppy, nut - from 30 to 50%;
olive - 40%.

Mineral oils do not contain fatty acids and therefore do not dry out in the open air.

Natural vegetable oils oxidize very slowly although some are high in linoleic acid. To shorten the drying time of the oil, they are processed and added to the composition of the metal compound - desiccants. Metal salts help to dry faster. Thus, depending on the composition, drying oil dries within 6–36 hours after application and forms a hard film on the surface. Most often, modern solutions dry within a day.

Drying oil: technical characteristics of the species

Today there are several types that differ in composition and scope. Let's consider each of the types separately.

Natural

This variety is classified as a more environmentally friendly and safe species for human health. The drier, which is part of the composition, is contained in a small amount, so the drying time will be slightly longer than that of other species. Natural linseed oil of light yellow color, without otherworldly impurities in the form of sediment at the bottom of the container.

According to the current GOST, this type must meet following technical characteristics:

Natural drying oil is used when painting wooden frames of various furniture. The composition allows not to carry out further processing of the material with varnish or paint. When impregnated, the tree does not lose its decorative qualities.

Semi-natural (oxol)

The composition contains natural oils, which are contained in smaller quantities. Usually it is 55% of the total volume. Dilute the base with a solvent and standard driers. Oksol belongs to a lower price category than others.

Oksol is usually labeled like this in hardware stores the following brands are available for purchase:

marking B - can be used as an additive to paints and varnishes for outdoor painting;
grade PV - for the preparation of putties;
brand SM - dilute the primer for the treatment of walls, ceilings.

Oxol is not suitable for processing wood flooring, as it will collapse under constant mechanical stress. And also the solvent, contained in a large amount, gives a pungent smell to the material. The specific aroma does not disappear for a long time. Finishing is necessary, as the surface treated with oxol quickly wears out and deteriorates.

Combined

This type is obtained by oxidation of natural oils (semi-drying and drying), for example, linseed, castor, cottonseed. The solvent to oil ratio is 30: 70%.

Combined drying oil is rarely used for finishing work. It is mainly used for the manufacture of paints (oil). The brands of this oil:

K 2, K 4, K 12 - used for interior finishing work;
K 3, K 5 - used for external work, for example, for processing concrete facades, basement parts.

The brands K3 and K2 became widespread. The composition of these drying oils includes a solvent, a small part of driers and oils. The liquid is transparent and has a slight tint. The coating layer dries up within 24 hours. K3 creates a dense film soon enough. Therefore, to get an even coating, you need to work with it quickly.

Combined drying oil is most often used for covering small pieces of wood... For this, oil paints are brought to the desired consistency. Grade K2 has a darker shade and is intended for processing ceilings and walls.

Synthetic

The main difference from other species Is the replacement of vegetable oils with synthetic oils. There are no GOST characteristics for this type. All the norms of the ratios of substances are regulated by the TU norms. Usually, such drying oils are not cheap according to GOST, respectively, and the quality is much lower than other types. The protective and water-repellent properties are very low.

Such a coating quickly deteriorates under external influences. Synthetic oil has a very pungent chemical odor, so indoor use is highly undesirable. This oil can cause serious health damage. It is mainly used for the manufacture of putty and plaster mixtures.

There are two exceptional varieties of synthetic drying oil:

pentaphthalic;
glyphthalic.

They are produced on the basis of processing natural oils and various resins. Paints diluted with this varnish form a dense and even layer. The strength of the coating is superior to natural and semi-natural drying oils.

Compositional

The composition includes natural oxidized oils and gasoline diluted with varnish (rosin). The oil can be one or several. Basically, rapeseed, corn, cottonseed oil is added.

Oil-rubber drying oil is the most used in work. This species there are two brands, which differ from each other in composition:

K1 based on rubber. It is used for painting both indoors and outdoors;
MK-2 is used as a primer. They are treated with the surface before direct paint application.

Additional Information

All types of oils can be used for the treatment of wooden surfaces. Particular attention should be paid to the place of application - drying oil for outdoor use or for indoor use.

Consumption

When processing wooden surfaces with linseed oil, the following stages of work are distinguished:

Paints and enamels are often very thick in consistency, so painting the surface with them can be difficult. In such cases, the paint is diluted with linseed oil. It is added until the desired density is obtained. Thus, this method allows you to reduce paint consumption and save money.

The choice of drying oil

When buying drying oil, you need to be careful. Pay close attention on the color of drying oil and packaging... The label must indicate the composition, GOST or TU number of the product. GOST refers to state-level standards. It is advisable to check the certificate of conformity and hygiene certificate. The place and date of production, instructions for use are necessarily marked on the packaging.

A quality product has no external mechanical damage to the container and does not contain sediment. The smell of the product, the weaker the better.