How to build a brick slab. Brick oven for home: guidelines for choosing the optimal type and examples of procedures for independent craftsmen. Installing the firebox door

Brick ovens equipped with a hob are versatile - they allow you to heat the house, as well as heat water and cook food. , from the simplest and most compact, which can be folded with your own hands, to complex multifunctional, the laying of which is better to entrust to an experienced stove-maker.

It would seem that there is nothing easier than replacing the suitable surface of a brick oven with a metal insert with your own hands, having received a stove for cooking. In fact, everything is much more complicated. The stove is a complex device, and the thermophysical processes taking place in it depend on the correct arrangement of its elements.

This type of oven has special requirements. On the one hand, it must effectively accumulate heat in the thickness of the brickwork, on the other hand, take a significant part of the heat to heat the hob. In the summer, when heating is not required at home, the hob should warm up quickly with economical fuel consumption.

Requirements

In theory, the hob can be made of any material that can heat up to high temperatures when firing a stove. In practice, however, they are used with holes covered with a removable cover.

This design makes it possible to obtain zones with different temperatures on the slab. The thermal conductivity of cast iron, in contrast to steel, is not very high, therefore, on the plane of the stove, you can heat food, as well as boil or simmer "over low heat". And by opening the lid, you can achieve direct heating of the dishes with an open flame, which allows you to quickly boil water or fry food in a pan.

The most practical burners shown in the photo, consisting of concentric rings of different diameters- they can be matched to the size of the pan base. In addition, the gaps between the rings compensate for the thermal expansion of the cast iron that occurs during overheating, and the plate can withstand repeated heating and cooling cycles without damage. Solid cast iron stoves are less reliable and require more accurate heating.

Materials (edit)

Which brick is preferable for laying a stove equipped with a hob?
In most cases, on the diagrams-orders of stoves for a house, a summer residence or a bath, you can see two types of brick: ordinary ceramic solid and refractory fireclay - it is most often indicated in yellow. Do-it-yourself fireclay bricks are used to lay out those parts that experience the greatest thermal loads during the firebox: the firebox and the roof of the furnace, part of the smoke channel immediately after the combustion chamber.

The main difference between fireclay bricks is its increased heat capacity.... It is able to accumulate and release the received heat for a long time more efficiently than ceramic. For laying a heating stove, and especially this is an indisputable plus.

But if the stove is used mainly as a cooking stove, then the increased heat capacity of chamotte is rather a disadvantage: it will absorb a significant part of the heat, and it will take more time to cook food. In the summer, cooking on such a stove will be impossible - the room will become hot and stuffy.

If the oven is mainly used for cooking, it is recommended to use a minimum amount of fireclay bricks!

Views

There are many varieties of heating and cooking stoves, each stove-maker probably has in stock several proven drawings and diagrams, according to which he does the masonry with his own hands. But, one way or another, they are all put together on the basis of long-known ones, which are discussed below.

Swedish oven

"Swede" was originally intended to perform several functions: heating, preparing a variety of food, and drying and keeping clothes warm. Its design is thought out for trifles, the stove is equipped with a hob, an oven, and perfectly heated niches-stoves. Moreover, its smoke channels are made in such a way that the furnace body heats up evenly from bottom to top, thanks to which a stable temperature is kept in the room.

A distinctive feature of the Swedish stove shown in the photo is the oven. And its function is not limited to baking and baking. The oven is located next to the firebox and is separated from it by a thin layer of masonry. The arch of the firebox is formed by a stove located in a niche. Immediately after the start of the firebox, the hob and the wall between the firebox and the oven warm up well.

In winter time when the furnace is fully loaded, the initial the room is heated by convection flows from the stove and oven, after the end of the firebox - due to the heated walls of the oven. The hob does not overheat at the same time as air constantly circulates over it.

In summer, the oven is mainly used for cooking.... In this case, intense convection does not occur, since there is no temperature difference, and for a good heating of the stove, a small amount of fuel is sufficient. The oven also warms up, creating a high temperature zone at the exit from the firebox, due to which the flue gases go into the channels completely burnt out. At the same time, the furnace body heats up slightly.

Diagram and drawings of the masonry of a Swedish-type stove with their own hands are shown in the figure.

For laying a classic "Swede" with your own hands you need:

  • corpulent red brick, grade M 150 - 580 pieces;
  • clay-based dry masonry mixture - 200 kg;
  • cast iron grate;
  • firebox door;
  • blower door;
  • cast iron stove with two collapsible burners;
  • welded sheet metal oven;
  • chimney valve - 2 pcs;
  • cleaning - 3 pieces;
  • equal-flange steel corner 40 mm - 170 cm;
  • steel strip 5x50 mm - 65 cm;
  • flat slate 10 mm thick - 1 sheet;
  • roofing iron.

The foundation for the Swede is made solid, of concrete... Under the foundation, it is necessary to make a sand and gravel cushion 15-20 cm thick. The height of the foundation itself is at least 30 cm, with two-layer reinforcement from a bar. The foundation, before the start of laying, is kept for at least 20 days to gain strength.

Level the foundation with a screed with the floor level. After it dries, it is necessary to insulate the furnace from concrete, otherwise it will take up a significant part of the heat.

Perform it like this:

  1. a sheet of asbestos 3-4 mm thick is placed on the foundation with dimensions 30 cm larger than the dimensions of the furnace from the sides and back and 60 cm from the side of the firebox;
  2. a heat reflector is laid on asbestos - foil or thin galvanized;
  3. followed by another similar layer of asbestos with the same dimensions;
  4. a sheet of roofing iron with the same indents as asbestos;
  5. on top of the iron - technical felt impregnated with clay milk to the size of the oven.

On top of the felt, after it dries, they begin laying the furnace according to the scheme-order:
First two rows- solid. They form the base of the oven. Third and fourth- install the blower door, cleaning and begin to form the lower part of the smoke circulation and the ash pan. 5th row install the grate and oven. In the 6th row continue to lay out smoke channels, install a partition between the oven and the combustion chamber. 7th row put the firebox door, fix it in 8 and 9 rows, continue to lay out the channels. 10 row forms a support for the hob. To install it correctly, you must first fold the brick on dry, attach the slab and mark the laying grooves.

For the convenience of masonry, bricks are numbered, the row is disassembled and recesses are selected with the help of a grinder for laying the slab in such a way that a gap of 5 mm remains on all sides. After that, the row is collected on a masonry mortar, and the slab itself is placed on an clay-asbestos slurry. For its preparation, crushed asbestos is introduced into the masonry mortar diluted to a creamy consistency. When laying the slab, be sure to check its level. If the burners are of different sizes, the larger one is placed above the firebox, the smaller one above the oven.

Rules for laying the hob: video

12 to 16 row lay out the walls of the niche above the stove and smoke channels. Over 16 rows lay a sheet of flat slate to fit the niche, and in 17 and 18 rows they lay it with a brick, forming the overlap of the furnace. Further masonry lead according to the scheme up to 30 rows, in which a valve is placed, after which they proceed to the laying of the desired height.

Small cooking stove

In the country house or in the summer kitchen, the stove can be installed only for one purpose - cooking... In this case, there is no need to waste material on the smoke circulation. An excellent model of the cooking oven is presented in order.

This multifunctional wood stove has several functions: you can cook and roast on the hob, you can bake in the oven, and it also has a built-in water tank.

The sketch of the facade shows its elements:

  • 1 - firebox;
  • 2 - ash pan and blower;
  • 3 - oven;
  • 4 - water tank;
  • 5 - cleaning door.

The design and type of heating the furnace resembles a "Swedish", but without smoke channels... The heated smoke goes directly into the chimney, so the stove is heated with a small amount of fuel. The exit to the chimney is located at the back, which allows you to bring the pipe through the wall with your own hands, observing fire safety standards.

On such a stove no more than 250 pieces of bricks are required, which allows you to install it on the floor of the house without erecting a foundation. In this case, it is also necessary to do thermal insulation, but in the reverse order: a felt impregnated with a liquid clay solution is laid on the floor, and a sheet of roofing iron is laid on it. Laying begins on top of the sheet.

First two rows, like the Swede, solid. In the 3rd row install cleaning, at 4 and 5- ash pan door, form the smoke circulation and exit to the chimney. In the 6th row they overlap the ash pan door, install an oven and a water tank. 7th row a grate is placed on the bottom of the furnace, from 8 to 10 row lay out a partition between the firebox and the oven, put the firebox door. 11 row- overlap over the firebox door, oven and tank. Also in the 11th row, a recess is made for laying the slab.

The top of the stove is covered with a cast iron hob with two knobs. They are selected so that the maximum heated one is located above the firebox. A slab with a 5 mm gap is placed on a clay mortar with the addition of asbestos.

Kuznetsov ovens

Fundamentally new design furnaces are implemented in. Unlike channel ones, they are devoid of a complex system of internal passages, and the circulation of gases occurs in cavities - hoods. For this feature, Kuznetsov's stoves are called bell stoves. Among his developments are heating, cooking, stoves for baths and summer cottages.

In channel furnaces, hot gases pass through labyrinths of passages, gradually giving off heat. This causes uneven heating, and sometimes destruction of the furnace elements. If the length of the channels is insufficient, for example, in sauna stoves, the gases do not have time to cool down, as a result, efficiency decreases, and the stove heats the air.

In bell-top structures, heated smoke rises into the bell - a cavity bounded from above by an overlap, and from below it has an outlet. The hot gas at the top of the bell gradually cools down, heating the walls of the furnace, and gradually goes down. The circulation of gases in Kuznetsov's bell-type furnaces is shown in the figure.

For full-fledged heat transfer in Kuznetsov's stoves, not one, but two or three bells are made, and their placement can be either vertical - one above the other, for example, in sauna stoves, and horizontal - in models equipped with a stove bench. Heating and cooking ovens, as a rule, imply a vertical arrangement of hoods.

The hob is located either above the firebox, or forms the arch of the lower bell. In the second case, the temperature on it will be more stable. Do-it-yourself masonry orders, as well as photos of the most popular designs of Kuznetsov furnaces, are presented below.

Heating and cooking stove

Kuznetsov's stove for a bath

Video: masonry of Kuznetsov's heating and cooking stove

Video: Kuznetsov's stove for a bath

A heating and cooking stove is an indispensable attribute of a village house, as well as recreation areas in a bathhouse or in the country. If you have a diagram, drawings, ordering and detailed instructions, you can fold it with your own hands, and it will warm the house and delight the owners with a variety of delicious and fresh dishes.

Heating and cooking stoves have been present in houses since ancient times. They acted as the main component of any rural home. Nowadays, people living in private houses in the city do not refuse to install this structure either. It has not lost its functionality, therefore it is actively used by many.

Even if the house has a heating system that runs on gas or electricity, many do not want to turn it on at full power on autumn days, when it gets cool in the house. In this case, the stove will help to provide a comfortable microclimate in the home. It is enough to throw a few logs into the firebox and the dwelling will get warm pretty quickly.

If you decide to acquire this structure in your home, then the task of its construction must be approached with the utmost seriousness because the oven is built with the expectation that it will last for decades. It doesn't matter if you are building a do-it-yourself heating stove or a stove with a stove. Therefore, if mistakes are made during the construction process, it will be extremely difficult to correct them later.

Speaking about stoves, we note that they are divided into structures for one- and two-story houses. The main difference between the two is height. The structure to be erected can have a slab or be used only for heating. In the second case, the plate is absent in it as a constituent element. The height of a do-it-yourself stove depends on the number of rows in the scheme. Next, we will take a closer look at how to build a do-it-yourself stove with a stove in a private house.

Masonry materials

Calculation of materials is an extremely important point when laying a stove with your own hands. In addition, the quality of the structure affects its service life. The stove stove we are considering in this article usually measures 90 × 90 cm at the base. As for its height, the structure does not reach its top point to the ceiling of the first floor by 2.1 m.

Before starting work on the construction of a furnace with your own hands, you need to purchase materials in sufficient quantities to be used in its construction. During the work, you need:

  • red brick М150 in the amount of 1085 pcs .;
  • sand-lime brick for the construction of the firebox 150 pcs. Instead, you can use chamotte;
  • sand - 80-100 buckets;
  • clay - 200 kg;
  • corner 50 × 50 mm and 40x40 mm;
  • steel wire 2 mm - 25 m;
  • metal sheet 4 mm 1.5 × 1.5 m;
  • roofing material -3 m;
  • asbestos cord 5 mm - 10 m;
  • wall insulation material.

The construction of the foundation also requires the preparation of appropriate materials:

  • sand;
  • cement;
  • fittings;
  • crushed stone;
  • formwork boards.

In addition, for the construction of a full-fledged stove with a do-it-yourself stove, which can be used to heat a home and prepare food, you will need to purchase cast iron parts:

  • grate - 1 pc .;
  • hob with two burners -1pc .;
  • gate valves - 3 pcs.;
  • two doors for the combustion chamber and ashtray, 1 piece each;
  • cleaning doors - 5 pcs.

After the materials are prepared and the builder has the necessary tools at his disposal, you can proceed to the active phase of the work.

Foundation

Taking into account the fact that the structure under construction has a large mass, when constructing the foundation with your own hands perform its deepening not less than 80 cm. However, when conducting foundation work, the climatic features of the area of ​​residence, as well as the depth of freezing, should be taken into account. You can find out about this from local builders. Considering all these points, a self-built stove according to the chosen scheme will last a long time.

The pit for the foundation to be arranged must have a square shape. As for its dimensions, they should be 1.2 × 1.2 m. You can easily dig it with your own hands using a hand tool - a shovel.

After the completion of excavation work, the bottom of the pit is compacted. Then at its bottom make a sand pillow, for which it is important to maintain an optimal layer thickness of 10-15 cm. Next, crushed stone is poured in a layer of 15 cm, which, after laying it, must be tamped, and then the formwork must be installed. This must be done with the expectation that it will pass through the entire thickness of the foundation.

Pouring the foundation for the future furnace is performed in several stages. The first layers may consist of mortar, which is made of cement and pebbles. The top layer must be poured with concrete made from sand and cement. Taking into account the weight of the structure, the solidification of the foundation should take a long time, at least three weeks. This is important, because otherwise a do-it-yourself stove even according to the chosen scheme, will not last long. A crack in the foundation will lead to the need for repairs.

When the base of the furnace with the slab has gained sufficient strength, the formwork is removed, and the upper part of the foundation is covered with waterproofing material- three layers of roofing material. The first bricklaying with your own hands will be done further on it.

In comparison with a fireplace, the design of a stove with a do-it-yourself stove is more complex. Therefore, the construction scheme must be strictly observed.

Due to the fact that the area of ​​the foundation is larger than the base, markings should be performed on the waterproofing. After that, you can proceed to the laying of the first row.

If a vertical layout of rows is used, then it must be remembered that the chimney channels should not be too narrow. Their minimum size is 13 × 13 centimeters.

The order scheme for laying out a heating and cooking stove assumes the following: already from the first rows of masonry, a blower chamber should be provided in its scheme. When the laying of the second row begins, the blower door is installed, which, before being installed in the opening intended for it, is wrapped with an asbestos cord.

When installing the door, a wire is attached to it, which is clamped between two bricks. When it is completely framed with masonry, the wire is bent to the sides.

When they reach the masonry of the fourth row of the furnace, holes are designated on it for circulating heated air. On the fifth, the firebox grate is laid. When constructing the wall of the furnace and its threshold, it is permissible to use silicate brick.

The installation of the combustion door is performed on the sixth row. It, like the blower, is wrapped with an asbestos cord.

From 6 to 10 rows, special attention should be paid to the shape of the holes, which will ensure the movement of air inside the structure. The tenth row, if possible, must be fastened with a frame welded from a corner. On the 11th row, a hob is placed on a pre-laid asbestos gasket.

The corner fits on the seventeenth row. The 18th row of masonry will lie on it, which will complete the framing of the chamber above the slab.

A drying chamber is formed on rows 19-20 of the masonry. On the 19th row, a cleaning door is installed.

Once again, the metal corner is laid on the 24th row of the masonry. On him a solid row of bricks will be laid out which will become the ceiling of the dryer.

The cleaning door is installed on the 25th row.

On the 30th row, two valves are being installed.

All subsequent rows up to the 38th are performed according to the scheme, and the next ones form part of the furnace, which goes to the second floor. Note that this part of the oven has a different numbering in the order. Its laying is carried out according to the following scheme:

  • door installation is performed on the 2-3rd row. It is used for cleaning;
  • the chimney valve is installed on the 27th row;
  • the part of the stove installed on the second floor should have the shape of a wide chimney. It must be equipped with a valve and a camera. It is gradually replaced by a narrow pipe, which begins at the level of the 32nd row.

An umbrella is put on the upper part of the pipe, which prevents dust and moisture from entering inside it.

Furnace diagrams

Furnaces that are built in private houses with their own hands can currently be divided into two groups:

  • modern devices;
  • obsolete constructions.

It is not a problem to build outdated structures with your own hands. However, they have an imperfect design, therefore most often, stoves with a stove are installed in houses that differ in their functionality.

If you decide to build a stove with a stove in your house or just a structure for heating with your own hands, then you need to seriously approach the task of choosing them. Familiarization with the advantages of furnaces of different designs will allow you to make the right choice. If a private house already has a stove with an old-style stove, then in this case there is no need to build a structure from scratch. It is enough to remake it and you will have equipment for heating and cooking.

To avoid mistakes during the rework process, you should first familiarize yourself with the video and various instructions on how the professionals do this work. Also during work it is necessary to use drawings. Applying the knowledge gained, you can get a good result at the end of the work - you will have a do-it-yourself oven with a stove.

One of the most common types of ovens is bunk. If we talk about its device, then, we note that it consists of two structures- one stands on top of the other. Each of the parts of this structure has dimensions of 165x51x238 cm. When the furnace is operating, the heat transfer in the lower part is 3200 kcal / h, and in the upper part - 2600 kcal / h.

When building such a structure with your own hands, the two structures are separated by means of brickwork with voids. it allows you to reduce the weight of the oven and save during its construction, a certain amount of material. The liner, which is used to fill the space between the upper and lower oven, also acts as the base for the first structure.

Both the upper and lower ovens have exactly the same design. In the case under consideration, a channelless smoke circulation system is implemented. Once in the firebox, gases move into the upper bell, which is equipped with a special nozzle. After the gases have cooled, they are lowered to the bottom to the level of the firebox. Then they go into the chimney through the roll-up.

In the lower furnace, the chimney runs in the upper part, so the heating surface is smaller. The upper structure has a separate chimney. The process of its laying does not contain difficult moments. The scheme of gas movement is also simple. There is a door in the back wall through which the lower structure is to be cleaned. Cleaning the upper structure must be carried out through the door located in the side wall. Either coal or anthracite can be used as fuel for the double-deck oven. Each of the pipes created in this furnace is additionally equipped with a valve.

Reinforced concrete slabs are often used to cover the top of voids. This overlapping option provides stability, and in addition, makes the furnace structure as a whole more stable. When performing masonry of such a volume, errors should be excluded. Indeed, in the event of their occurrence, the repair will be extremely difficult.

Great attention should be paid to the construction of the chimney located in the lower structure of the furnace. If there are leaks in the masonry, then in this case you may encounter heat transmission from the wall that separates the pipes on the second floor. Note that this will also happen with closed smoke dampers.

Stoves with a stove or any other type can be combined into any array, regardless of whether they are square or rectangular. The type of fuel does not really matter either. For a country house, a do-it-yourself stove can be an ideal heating option.

A furnace of this design has dimensions of 102x102x238 cm. If we talk about its heat transfer during operation, then it is 4200 kcal per hour.

One of its important parts, the firebox, has a great height in the design of this stove. The symmetrical arrangement is also typical for its side openings, which serve to remove gas through the side chambers of the furnace walls located on the sides of the structure. Once there, the gas descends through the chambers, the connection of which is provided by a special channel located under the firebox.

Gases enter the risers from each side chamber through the lower taps. Then they rise to the side chambers located at the top. Everything together they form the top cap, which has three U-shaped cavities.

The cavities are located parallel to each other. Having got up, the gas will be retained in the middle and rear cavities of the bell, and after cooling it will pass into the front plane along the lower part. The front plane is connected to the stacked chimney. From there, the gas will go into the atmosphere.

There are three bells in the design of this furnace: an upper one and 2 large chambers. If we talk about the type of fuel that can be used in the construction of this structure, we note that it can be anything. For laying out the walls of the firebox during the construction of the furnace, refractory bricks should be used.

The stove in the house is a good help in creating a comfortable microclimate with minimal costs. She can act as the main heating system for the home or be used as an additional heat source. The construction of this structure does not have to be entrusted to a specialist. You yourself can build a stove in your home if you study all the nuances of building a stove. High-quality work will allow you to get a furnace that will give off heat well and will last for decades.

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For a long time, the construction of a stove for a home has been trusted by stove-makers who have the appropriate skills and a desire to improve their skills. High-quality masonry of a heating structure can be considered a certain type of art, although building a stove with your own hands is also possible.

At the same time, it should be noted that the construction of stoves with your own hands is now quite possible. But for this you should carefully study the recommendations of professionals. You will need to choose the design of the heating unit and high-quality materials. A craftsman who has built a stove with his own hand will have the opportunity to admire his creation for many years.

Do-it-yourself construction of the furnace begins with the choice of its design solution. Not all brick heating units are the same - they differ in parameters and in their functionality.

According to the classification, brick ovens of the following types are distinguished:
  • heating structures;
  • heating and cooking;
  • special units.
The latest devices include, for example, sauna stoves (see article: ""). You can build a combined heating unit such as a fireplace stove. For long-term preservation of heat, they equip a brick version of the braziers. In cold weather, they are heated for one hour, either in the morning or in the evening.

Choosing a heating structure

When choosing the type of stove, the owners of private houses and summer cottages, first of all, take into account their own material capabilities. Of course, laying a brick heating structure will cost much more than assembling a metal device. Despite the difference in price, most homeowners still prefer brick ovens.

DIY stove construction: important nuances

First of all, before you build a stove in the house, you need to make a base for it. For a brick heating structure, a monolithic foundation is made. Any concrete is used for it, but its grade cannot be lower than 300. The required depth of laying must be observed, which must be below the level of freezing of the soil.

The brickwork of the stoves is made of solid bricks using clay mortar. Fireclay brick is required for the firebox. It is imperative to observe the thickness of the seam. It should not exceed 5 millimeters, but it is better if it is only 3 millimeters. It is not difficult to make a mortar for masonry yourself. For him, they take quartz sand and mix it with clay in a 4: 1 ratio. You will also need a sieve with cells up to 5 millimeters. Before preparing the mixture, the sand is sieved.

The technology of laying fireclay bricks is similar to that observed when using conventional bricks. This will require fireclay clay. If we build a stove with our own hands, many questions arise regarding the installation of doors, plates, valves and other metal elements. When arranging them, the parameters of the expansion joints must be observed - they must be at least 5 millimeters.

All used fittings must be securely fastened. The cap above the roof (chimney) is erected using ordinary sand-cement mortar.

A variety of oven fittings are sold in specialized shopping centers and construction markets. It can differ in cost at times depending on who produced it. Foreign products are more expensive than domestic products, but they have a more attractive appearance. Nowadays, a door with heat-resistant glass is most often installed.

Features of the furnace device

The traditional design of a classic brick oven provides the fastest heating in the cooking area, while the walls heat up more slowly (read also: ""). Many consumers are not satisfied with this feature. To solve this problem, an afterburner system is provided. As a result, for cooking, it makes no sense to load the oven completely, but you can only do with a secondary firebox.
In this situation, the nozzle supplying air for the afterburning of fuel acts as a blower. In this case, the combustion products are removed by adjusting the gate. The chimney is equipped using an iron or asbestos-cement pipe.

The chimney pipe is supplied with heat-insulating elements only when it passes through the room. Outside, it is insulated with basalt wool, and covered with foil on top to prevent the deposition of condensate on the inner surfaces. The junction of the chimney brick with the metal pipe of the hood is coined with an asbestos cord.

When the construction of a heating brick structure takes place in a country house, it is not always advisable to equip a shield with wells and channels, as it should be done when building a Dutch stove (in more detail: ""). To ensure good traction, the height of the pipe must be at least 3 meters. In summer, a side firebox will be enough for the operation of the furnace. When you start cooking, you need to load about three kilograms of fuel - peat briquettes or small logs. Read also: "".

Tips from master stove-makers on how to build a stove correctly

  1. A good solution to increase the heat transfer area will be the installation of a steel pipe, to which metal radiators are welded. For this purpose, you can also use any iron products.
  2. To build a furnace, you need to use solid ceramic bricks. Dinas products resistant to high operating temperatures should be used when assembling the firebox. The fact is that it gives off heat worse than a red oven brick - it heats up longer at a higher cost - almost 2 times (read also: "").
  3. Before building a stove in the house, the brick must be placed in water for about 4 hours. When laying, bricks should be placed as accurately as possible, leveling with a mallet. If they are already installed, they cannot be moved. Stove makers usually spread the mortar with their hands, without using a trowel. If necessary, use a bricklayer's hammer to hew bricks, and you also need to have a grinder.

Materials and tools

To build the furnace, you will need the following materials and tools:
  • bricks;
  • red clay and quartz sand;
  • cement;
  • oven fittings;
  • corner, plumb line, level;
  • Bulgarian;
  • Master OK;
  • overalls.
It would be wise if, before starting to build a stove with his own hands, a home craftsman consults with professionals in order to take advantage of their advice.

Some tips for building a stove with your own hands in the video:

In late autumn and early spring, there is not enough comfort at the dacha - it becomes damp and cool in the house. The problem can be solved with an electric heater, but in a suburban home it is better to give preference to a traditional wood-burning hearth. The heat from the stove or fireplace warms not only the body, but also the soul, filling the room with a special aroma and comfort. To build a mini-oven with your own hands, you do not need large costs - the cost of a home-made unit will cost much less than finished devices.

Heating and cooking country stove: where to start and how to build

Small-sized furnaces, despite their small dimensions, are installed on a solid foundation. Only in some cases can you get by with reinforcing the floor. Experienced craftsmen work without diagrams and drawings, and beginners are advised to take the order of reputable stove-makers as a basis.

Construction diagram and materials

Ideal for a small house, this square mini brick oven is simple, compact and efficient. The design includes a low chimney with a channel section of 13 * 13 cm. The stove has an oven that allows you to cook and warm up dishes. The cabinet is made of sheet steel, but if desired, it can be replaced with a ready-made oven of suitable dimensions.

The appearance and structure of the furnace

A fireproof mortar is required for laying a mini-oven on wood. You can make it yourself from clay, but it will take more time, and the result will depend on the quality of the clay and the correct determination of its fat content. It is much easier to trust the manufacturers and purchase a ready-made heat-resistant mixture in the store - in this case, the product will remain to be diluted with clean water in the proportions indicated on the package.

The dimensions of the compact structure are 51 * 51 cm, the height of the hearth is 175 cm. To strengthen the firebox, fireclay bricks must be taken - it is not afraid of direct contact with the flame and does not crack. The walls of a mini-oven for a country house are laid out with red brick.

Consumption of materials:

  • ceramic bricks - 170 pieces;
  • refractory masonry mortar - 35–40 liters;
  • door for the firebox measuring 23 * 25 cm;
  • blower door (13 * 14 cm);
  • cleaning door (13 * 9 cm);
  • grate (25 * 18 cm);
  • latch (12 * 34 cm);
  • steel sheet;
  • steel wire - about 2.5 m;
  • roofing material for waterproofing.

Masonry diagram and oven drawing

The first row, as always, is laid out without mortar. On the second row, a blower door is mounted using steel wire for fastening, and an ash pan is laid. On the fourth row, a grate is laid, providing a gap of about 4 mm between the grate and the masonry.

Laying the fifth row begins with the installation of a combustion door. The door frame is wrapped with an asbestos cord, and the door is walled up in the masonry using steel wire. This is followed according to the scheme: an oven, a chimney, a pipe are formed.

Baby stove with stove and oven

Another mini-oven for a summer residence has dimensions at the base of only 51 * 64 cm, while the depth of the firebox is 50 cm. The model is perfect for a country house or a summer kitchen. Firewood, coal, peat, briquettes can be used as fuel.

Design features and materials

Despite its small dimensions, the compact stove is quite functional and is equipped with a hob and oven, which allows it to be used not only for heating the room, but also for household needs. According to the reviews of those who have already built this assistant in their country house, the kettle on the stove boils in literally minutes.

The compactness was preserved thanks to the vertical arrangement of all elements. The chimney has a cross section of one brick. The exhaust gases pass through the channels located behind the cooking chamber, then enter the horizontal chimney, bypass the oven on both sides and go into the chimney.

Diagram of a mini-oven for a country house or summer kitchen

For construction you will need materials:

  • red brick - 220 pieces;
  • clay masonry mortar or ready-made - about 50 liters;
  • grate;
  • steel sheet (pre-furnace) with a size of 50 * 70 cm;
  • steel strip 4 mm thick with parameters 350 * 25 cm;
  • slate sheet 51 * 30 cm;
  • gate valve - 2 pieces;
  • firebox door;
  • 3 cleaning doors;
  • blower door;
  • oven (32 * 38 * 42 cm);
  • stove (38 * 35 cm) with one burner.

Masonry order

The first row of a brick mini-oven is laid without mortar. After the second row, a blower door is installed, the next row is placed and the firebox begins to form. The grate is laid without mortar. The sequential diagram clearly shows where and how the doors, stove, oven and latches should be installed.

To protect the ceramic bricks from fire, a lining is carried out - fireclay refractory bricks are laid in a separate row. It is important to remember that different types of bricks cannot be tied together - they have different expansion temperatures. Failure to follow this rule leads to cracks.

Option for novice stove makers: a stove with a cast iron firebox

A brick mini-oven can be built with your own hands on the basis of a finished cast-iron firebox. Cast iron fireboxes are durable - they do not crack or burn out. This option is more suitable for beginners, since all the main elements are already provided for in the design. The combined oven heats up quickly and cools down for a long time, due to which the efficiency of the hearth is significantly increased. If you wish, you can choose a fireplace-type hearth with a fire-resistant glass door - such a model will not only warm, but also decorate the room.

Before starting work, prepare a solid and even base. To do this, you can fill in a small concrete podium. The lining of the cast-iron firebox is made in half a brick, leaving an air cushion with a thickness of 1 to 10 cm between the walls and the cladding.In addition, it is necessary to provide small ventilation holes in the lower part of the building - they will provide the outlet of heated air and improve heat transfer.

Example of lining a cast iron firebox

You can start building a mini-oven with your own hands only with firm confidence in your knowledge and skills. Any doubts are a good reason to postpone independent work and entrust the construction to a professional stove-maker.

Video: do-it-yourself masonry of a small summer cottage stove

Stove heating as a way of heating private households is still popular. Since it is quite difficult to find a professional stove-maker, many owners of suburban real estate are forced to master the construction of brick ovens with their own hands.

To build a heating unit in accordance with all the rules and regulations, homeowners will need to stock up on the appropriate knowledge and skills, prepare tools and purchase construction materials for a significant amount.

Furnace types

A DIY brick stove for home can be:

  • Russian;
  • Swedish;
  • Dutch.

Ovens are also distinguished:

  • baths;
  • garden;
  • heating;
  • heating and cooking;
  • fireplaces.

Russian stove

Among stove-makers, it is considered the most versatile brick construction. It is equipped with a resting place called a bed. A cooking chamber is placed under it - a furnace or a crucible, under which there is a blower. It must ensure continuous combustion of solid fuel. Such do-it-yourself brick ovens for home also have a niche for kitchen utensils and keeping cooked food hot.


The standard dimensions of this type of furnace units are: 2 meters high, 2.5 meters long and 1.5 meters wide. Due to its impressive size, the Russian stove is capable of heating living space, the area of ​​which exceeds 40 "squares". But it also has a big drawback - it requires a lot of solid fuel to function.

Swedish stove

Its dimensions are more compact compared to the Russian stove. The height of the Swedish brick structure is approximately 2 meters, and the length and width are no more than a meter. This small do-it-yourself brick oven is intended for:

  • for space heating;
  • for cooking food.

A cast-iron stove on 2 burners is placed above the firebox of the Swedish unit, and an oven is placed on the side. In the process of building a stove, a stove is built in the kitchen, and the rest of it is equipped in another room.

A serious design flaw is the high degree of fire hazard. To prevent fire, the Swedish stove is equipped with dampers.

Dutch oven

This type of furnace unit owes its appearance to Russian stove-makers, it was they who invented it. The "Dutch" is intended for heat supply of premises. The stove is very compact and has a high degree of heat transfer. It will take 10 hours to completely warm up a cold room with it.


During the off-season, a Dutch brick stove with its own hands is able to retain heat throughout the day. Its constructional design provides high heat transfer due to the winding chimney. In addition, the stove has a spacious firebox.

"Hollanda" is erected only with the use of oven bricks, which accumulate heat quickly and give it off gradually. This building material for the construction of stoves is very expensive.

How to lay out the oven and what is needed for this

Having considered the designs of the furnaces and having made a choice, you can proceed to the next stage. In addition to the design, the stove structure must comply with fire safety requirements, which is why the stage of preparation for its construction is so important, which involves:

  1. Development of a detailed scheme for laying a stove with or without a stove.
  2. Determination of the installation site of the structure.
  3. Selection of materials.
  4. Selection of tools.
  5. Estimating construction costs.

In addition to the above activities, you need to decide on the number of auxiliary workers, and perhaps they are not needed.


The final result of construction depends on how competently the project of a house with stove heating is developed. Now you can not develop diagrams - do-it-yourself oven drawings, but purchase ready-made documentation. When choosing such a project, it is necessary to make sure that the figures indicated in it are reliable, it also does not hurt to make sure that there is a step-by-step detailed description of the construction.

When choosing the location of the stove, first of all, pay attention to the area of ​​the room and the design of the stove. Since the process of how to lay out a brick stove in a country house or in a house has many nuances, experienced stove-makers advise novice craftsmen to build reduced models of future units.

Thanks to this, you can prepare for the upcoming laying and minimize mistakes and miscalculations. When complex designs of stoves are selected, laying stoves with their own hands for inexperienced craftsmen can be overwhelming. In this case, you should seek professional help.

Selection and purchase of building materials

Regardless of what type of furnace is to be built, the same materials are used - these are bricks, clay, sand. The main attention should be paid to the choice of bricks.

On sale there are 4 types of bricks for the construction of furnace units:

  • hand molded;
  • ceramic;
  • refractory;
  • silicate.

Ceramic products are used for facing the unit. It is advisable to purchase brick M-250 or M-500, which is more expensive, but more homogeneous than cheap products. It is able to withstand multiple heating-cooling cycles. Expensive brick has another advantage - excellent molding properties and decorative qualities.

Sand, when a brick stove is being built with your own hands for a summer residence or private household, you need to take clean, without garbage and various impurities and therefore it must be sifted through a sieve.

Clay for kiln units is normal, lean or oily. The proportions of the preparation of the mortar and the technology of laying bricks depend on which type of it is chosen. Stove makers prefer to use clay that has normal fat content.

Instrument preparation

To fold a stove with your own hands in a country house or in a residential building, you will need different tools: construction, measuring and auxiliary.

From construction tools you need:

  • for cutting bricks - grinder;
  • for sifting sand - a metal sieve with a cell of no more than 2 millimeters;
  • shovel;
  • to seal the solution - jointing;
  • for masonry mixture - combined kerma;
  • perforator plus a mixer nozzle for it;
  • for chopping bricks - a hammer-pick.

You also need to prepare measuring instruments:

  • tape measure at least 5 meters long;
  • to control verticality - a plumb line;
  • a wooden stove ruler about a meter long;
  • to check the evenness of the laying - the rule (there can be no gaps between it and the wall);
  • building and flexible levels.

Auxiliary tools include buckets, containers, etc.

Arrangement of the base for a brick oven

When we put the stove with our own hands, first of all, provide a distance between the chimney and the roof overlap, equal to at least 15 centimeters. Then you can start marking the foundation, which should exceed the parameters of the furnace structure in all directions by 15 centimeters.

It is better to form it when arranging a common building base. In order for the stove to serve for a long time, its foundation should not be associated with the foundation of the home ownership. The fact is that their natural shrinkage is different due to different degrees of stress.


First, the pit is poured with concrete, and then the foundation for the furnace is erected from bricks. Wooden formwork is pre-installed.

When the base is ready, its top level should be 19 centimeters below the floor surface. The foundation is not built for the fireplace, but the load on the floor of the upper floors is calculated. The base will certainly be waterproofed using roofing felt or roofing felt.

Brick masonry for the house

First of all, you need to study the drawings of the stove with your own hands made of bricks. Then they prepare a solution and lay the first row with a spatula and a trowel. Often novice home craftsmen are sure that they should not "regret" the solution. In fact, on the contrary - the thinner the layer, the stronger the brickwork will be.


The work is performed as follows:

  1. Hold the brick in place with one hand.
  2. By applying light blows, they mark the place of the chip.
  3. Keeping the brick in weight, they carry out its sharp and precise chopping into parts according to the marked marks.
  4. When they build a wood-fired stove for a summer residence or at home with their own hands, the first row must be laid out impeccably. First, the outer row of bricks is laid, then the middle, and the seams are carefully filled with mortar, preventing the formation of voids.
  5. The initial rows are built from the whole material, while the vertical seams should not coincide. But then the bricks need to be chopped. They are laid with the chopped side inside the structure array. This moment is important when constructing chimney ducts and a firebox. The fact is that the chips will be the place where soot accumulates, clogging the chimney.

Features of the construction of arches and vaults with your own hands

When they build arches and vaults, they also use the drawings of a brick oven with their own hands for a summer residence or other structure. The bricks are laid according to the technology of gradual filling, with a thickness of at least two rows.

The thickness of such an overlap cannot be less than 2 rows. For the opening of the firebox use a "lock" layout or masonry by the "bridge" method - the bricks are installed vertically on a metal corner. A metal product can be exchanged for a wooden frame.


For the construction of the pipe, silicate bricks are used that can withstand temperature extremes and precipitation. It is resistant to the acidic environment formed when smoke and water vapor come into contact. It is important that there are no irregularities or chips in the chimney. When the furnace structure is ready, a control furnace is carried out after 2 - 3 weeks.

Large and small do-it-yourself brick ovens in private houses are popular. But the main thing is to build the unit correctly so that it will serve for decades.