How to build comfortable rabbit cages. How to make a do-it-yourself rabbit cage - types of structures, preparation for work and a phased construction technology Do-it-yourself multi-storey rabbit cages

Igor Nikolaev

Reading time: 5 minutes

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Any practicing rabbit breeder will tell you how important it is to create comfortable living conditions for rabbits.

Since the most common method of keeping domestic rabbits is the cage, a properly designed cage will help to ensure good living conditions and facilitate cleaning.

In addition, an important aspect in its creation is the quality and safety of materials (including environmental).

There are two options: either buy a ready-made house for a rabbit, or make it yourself.

The second option is not only less expensive financially, but also more preferable, since the rabbitry built by the owner himself makes it possible to take into account the specific number of rabbits and the characteristics of their breed. Next, we will look at how to build a do-it-yourself rabbit cage.
The design of a cage for rabbits and materials for making it with your own hands.
Whatever the design of the rabbit house you choose, its basis is always the same and consists of the following main parts:
supporting frame;
walls;
ceiling;
doors.

Cages for these pets can be made from either wooden materials or metal mesh, however, they should never be made of iron. This will greatly damage the health of your pets, since in the summer heat such a cage will heat up unnecessarily, and, on the contrary, it will freeze thoroughly in the winter cold. Such cages for rabbits are absolutely contraindicated.

To make a frame with your own hands, as a rule, thick wooden beams are used, given the fact that the legs of the cage should be at least 35 centimeters long (if you plan to put the cages indoors). If rabbits are planned to be kept outdoors, then the height of the legs should be increased - from 70 centimeters to one meter. In addition to considerations of safety and comfort for animals, such a height of the rabbit dwelling will greatly facilitate its maintenance. The material for the walls is usually either plywood sheets, wooden boards, or metal mesh.
Rabbit cages are not completely made of mesh, since they need a shelter protected from prying eyes. When arranging floors in cages and feeders, it is best to use the same mesh or wooden slats, since feed waste and animal waste products are well poured through the left cell. For the manufacture of the roof, the same materials are taken as for the walls. When installing a roof in industrial cages, which are located in the open air, it must be covered with additional insulating materials (tiles, roofing felt) to protect it from snow and rain.
It is important to remember that any detail in the cage must be made safe and smooth. The net should not have sharp ends, and the wooden parts should be carefully polished so that the animals do not have splinters and other injuries. These rodents are very curious and can climb anywhere.

The most popular rabbit cage designs are:
an ordinary cell (either without a queen cell, or with a queen cell);
design by I.N. Mikhailova;
design by N.I. Zolotukhina;
a cage in which a walking enclosure for rabbits is provided.

The first type of design provides for two compartments: the first is for walking and feeding, the second is a shelter-nest. These sections are separated from each other by a solid partition, in which a manhole is provided. The door to the shelter is made solid of wood, and to the walking-stern area - from a net stretched over the frame. If space permits, walking can be done separately from the feeding area (rabbit enclosure). The entrance to such enclosures can be done both through the back wall of the cage, and from below, through the floor.
Dwellings with a separate enclosure are well suited for mating animals, since the large size of the enclosure allows you to increase the physical activity of animals, which not only has a beneficial effect on the general physical condition, but also improves their reproductive functions.
Industrial cages for rabbits according to Mikhailov's system are real mini-farms, as a result of which this design is considered the most difficult to manufacture and the most advanced. In such dwellings, almost everything is provided: heating of drinkers and mother liquors, a ventilation system, shelves for rest. A distinctive feature of cells of this design is a unique system for the removal of animal waste.
Mikhailov cells design
Wherever they shit, everything ends up in one container. Also, on such mini-farms, a bunker feeder for rabbits is used, which allows you to set feed once or twice a week, as well as drip drinkers that meter the water supply from a large tank. Such a construction is a topic for a separate article. We are considering simpler options that you can do yourself, although the use of a bunker feeder in them is also possible.
The Zolotukhinsky version differs from the others in that solid sheets of plywood or flat slate are laid on the floor instead of slats or a mesh structure. There is no waste tray in such cages. The whole trick is that the floor is arranged with a slight slope, and a grid with a width of 10 to 20 centimeters is mounted on the back wall of the cage. Through this mesh, animal feces are removed, since rabbits most often prefer to shit near the back wall.
This cage rabbit feeder is a tipping type and does not need to be removed for cleaning. It is enough just to tilt the feeder towards you and remove food debris. A net must be placed in the feeder to prevent small rabbits from escaping through it.
Also, the Zolotukhin system does not provide for a summer mother liquor. The author proposes to fence off a place of the required size with a board 20 centimeters wide for the time of nesting and subsequent feeding, which is filled with hay. The rabbit in this place will arrange a nest for herself. This breeding technique brings rabbits as close as possible to their natural conditions of life, which makes it possible to obtain rabbits with a more stable immune system. As soon as the rabbits grow up, the board is taken away, freeing up space for them to walk. In winter, this approach is unacceptable, and you need to install a closed mother cell.
An important advantage of the Zolotukhin structure is that you do not need to have special skills and use expensive materials to build it with your own hands.

To make such a dwelling, affordable and cheap materials are needed: boards, mesh, plywood sheets or flat slate, as well as a small amount of sheet metal. A frame, a nest door and a solid partition are made of wood. For flooring, plywood or slate (flat) is taken. The partitions for the feeders and the outer door are made of mesh. Sheet metal is needed to keep the rabbits off the exposed wooden parts that they like to chew on. There should be no drafts in the nest compartment, as well as a lot of light, so the door here is made solid. In the mother liquor, it is necessary to provide a threshold of at least 10 centimeters in height so that some rabbit does not fall out of it when the door is opened.
To prevent waste from the cells of the upper tier from falling into the lower ones, the back wall should be made straight there, and on the lower tier - with a slope.
Cells according to Zolotukhin
How to make a rabbit cage?
The sequence of actions for making a cage for rabbits with your own hands is as follows:
first of all, a frame is made from wooden blocks of 5x5 centimeters, and a net is mounted on the floor of the feeding compartment;
then the back wall and the solid floor of the nest compartment are placed;
the side walls are covered with plywood sheets and a partition is installed with a pre-cut hole between the aft and nest compartments. The size of the manhole must be at least 20 centimeters in diameter;
a cover is installed on the socket;
a bar is attached to the frame in the middle of the cage, dividing it into sections, and then drinkers and feeders for rabbits are mounted (how to make a drinker for rabbits and how to make a feeder for rabbits - the topic of separate articles);
the resulting structure is turned over, and with the help of the slats, the mesh on the floor is finally fixed;
feed bins and a compartment for rough types of feed are mounted. You can put rods, or you can put a grid with cells of 2x5 centimeters;
then a roof is installed on the cage and a movable door for feeding troughs equipped with a handle;
mesh and solid doors equipped with latches are attached to the frame.

If the cages are to be placed in the open air, it is necessary to cover the roof with a moisture-proof roofing material. To do this, a rack frame is stuffed onto the finished roof, to which the roof is attached (roofing material or slate). The roof should be sloped for water sap. For example, if the height of the front wall is 70 centimeters, then the back wall should be 60 tons.
Whatever structure you decide to make, be sure to first make detailed drawings of the cells with dimensions. Such a scheme will help you not to make mistakes during construction and purchase the required amount of materials in advance. The mesh size of the net used in the manufacture of a home for rabbits must exceed 2x2 centimeters. Larger cells can cause animals to get stuck.

Nowadays, rabbit breeding is becoming a fairly popular activity that brings benefits and very good dividends. If you decide to go into this business, the first thing you need is to build cages for rabbits - we will provide drawings with dimensions and video instructions in this article.

Surely before making a decision build a rabbitry yourself, you have repeatedly looked at photos and videos of ready-made designs and even thought about the option to buy one of them. However, there is nothing difficult in making cages for rabbits with your own hands; you will find drawings for this in this section.

So let's get started.

First of all, you need to choose the material for building your future home. It should be safe for its fluffy inhabitants, smooth in texture, without foreign objects.
For walls often they use boards, thick plywood or mesh.
For frame and support it is preferable to take wooden blocks.
On the floor a rail or a fine mesh is placed. The roof should be made of board or plywood.
If the rabbitry is placed outdoors, the roof must be covered with any kind of roofing material.

You can see a detailed drawing with the dimensions of a two-section cage in the photo.

This is how it will look double two-piece cage.

Cages for rabbits according to the Zolotukhin method

Unlike classical structures, a rabbit cage built according to the method of Zolotukhin N.I., it is not required to equip with a mesh floor and a pallet... For such cells, either boards or slate are used. Only the back side of the cage is equipped with a fine mesh, no more than 20 cm wide. This is due to the fact that 95% of rabbits relieve themselves on the back side. The feeder in this design is placed directly on the door. Another difference of the cage, built according to the Zolotukhin method, is that it does not provide a place for the mother liquor. His rabbit will choose on her own where she thinks it is more correct. Perhaps, the video with Nikolai Zolotukhin himself will tell you the best about how to create cages for rabbits with your own hands.

After watching the detailed video instructions, you can properly build a comfortable cage for your pets. Having such a structure on the farm, you will not face the problem of cleaning the cage itself, you also there will be no difficulty in cleaning the rabbit feeders... And your pets will always be clean, well-groomed and healthy and will love their house very much.

DIY rabbit feeders

The rabbit feeder is an equally important element of the entire cycle. It should be of high quality, affordable for use, both for you and your pets, as well as safe for their life and health.

You can buy a ready-made feeder or make it yourself. A homemade feeder, by the way, is a more correct option. After all, it can be made almost free of charge and made in the size you need. The main thing is to lay a place for its placement when designing a cage. A do-it-yourself rabbit cage, and even equipped with a feeder, will serve as an excellent habitat for your pets.

The feeders themselves are divided into three key types:

hay feeders;
trough feeders;
bunker feeders.

How to make a rabbit feeder: drawings, photos and video instructions

In agriculture, there is another name for the first type of feeders - sennik. This design is very similar to a livestock nursery. The sennik can be equipped both outside and inside the cage.

Making such a hay feeder does not require special skills. and skills. In order to make it yourself, you need to draw the markings of the side walls on a sheet of plywood, focusing on the dimensions of the rabbitry door. And then using a hacksaw, cut out two side walls approximately as shown in the photo.

Do not forget to cut out the grooves on which you will attach the structure to the wall. Using a wooden block, we connect the two parts with self-tapping screws, and the front part is cut out of tin scissors designed for metal carving, and then fasten. We attach any grate near the grooves (even a part from an old refrigerator will do). It is from her that the rabbits will take hay.

The trough feeder is the simplest type of rabbit feeder... It can be made from plywood, tin, and even plastic bottles. There is nothing complicated in its design, and in order to make such a feeder with your own hands, it is enough to look at its image.

Those who have decided to start breeding rabbits must have a question of making a convenient cage for rodents. Dwellings for eared ones can be designed in different ways, and made both in the factory and with your own hands. Let's dwell on the last option.

What materials can be made

When planning the construction of rabbit cages, the first thing to think about is choosing the right building materials. In principle, for the construction of a simple structure that can protect animals from adverse external factors, any available means are suitable.

In the construction of rabbit farms, wood and metal, galvanized profiles, plastic elements, bricks, clay and even industrial pallets are used. Despite the fact that almost any materials are suitable for use, their choice should be approached with full responsibility.

Wood

Even a novice rabbit breeder can handle making a wooden cage.

Wood is widely used in the construction of a rabbit cage. Any structural elements can be made from it. It is from a wooden bar that the frame of the future cage is usually made. The floor made of wooden planks is also popular with rabbit breeders.

The main advantages of the material are environmental friendliness and ease of processing.... Wooden elements can be easily shaped into almost any shape. The excellent thermal insulation properties of wood should not be overlooked: it will be warm in the wooden rabbitry in winter, and not too hot in summer.

Of the shortcomings, it is worth highlighting the rapid destruction. Rabbits love to gnaw everything around, so the wooden elements of the interior of the cage are quickly destroyed by rodents. In addition, due to its porous structure, wood absorbs all odors and liquids, so it is not recommended to lay a solid wood floor in a cage.

Important! Insects and moisture also contribute to the rapid destruction of wood, therefore, all wooden structural elements must be treated with protective compounds. When choosing such a composition, make sure that it is safe for animals.

Metal

Metal is much stronger than wood, but working with it requires a different level of skill

Metal in comparison with wood is a more durable material for construction... Rabbits cannot gnaw through metal elements, they are easy to wash and are not afraid of insects. True, metal processing requires special skills from the master, as well as the ability to handle special tools.

The frame of the future cage is made of metal pipes. The metal is also used for interior decoration of wooden cages to prevent gnawing of natural material. But it is not recommended to make the roof and outer walls of the cage made of metal, since they can get very hot in the sun, and freeze in the cold, which is fraught with a threat to the health of eared residents.

Galvanized profile

The galvanized profile is used in combination with other materials. Unlike all-metal elements, strengthening or finishing the cage with a profile does not make the structure heavier, which is especially important for portable mobile rabbit cages.

Plastic elements

Plastic is lightweight and durable, but can release toxic substances in heat

Plastic pipes can be an alternative to timber and metal pipes. The durable and lightweight material allows for versatile cages to be used in all conditions.

It is important to keep animals in mind when working with plastic. Internal structural elements that can get "on the teeth" of rabbits should not be made of plastic. The animal can injure the mouth or esophagus with shrapnel, as well as poison the synthetic substances that make up the material.

Important! Some plastics release toxic substances when exposed to intense heat (such as in the heat).

Bricks and clay

Bricks and clay are used to build rabbit cages mainly in hot regions.... The bases for the houses are laid out with bricks, and the seams are coated with clay. Such a cage protects animals well from overheating, since the brick has excellent thermal insulation properties.

Grid

The walls of rabbit cages are made solid, in the form of a lattice of planks, or made of mesh. The most convenient option is considered to be with a mesh, which should have cells of medium or small size and be strong enough.

Slate

The most practical material for making a rabbit cage roof is slate. It will perfectly perform a protective function, while not overheating in the sun and not being afraid of moisture.

Materials at hand

Rabbits are not the most whimsical animals to care for. As temporary housing or in conditions of critical economy, houses made from scrap materials are suitable. Inventive rabbit breeders adapt old barrels and containers for the maintenance of rodents, or assemble multi-storey structures from industrial pallets.

Each material has special properties that can be both a plus and a minus. The choice should be guided by the advice of experienced rabbit breeders, individual conditions (climate, animal breed, etc.) and instructions for popular drawings, if you plan to use them.

A typical do-it-yourself rabbit cage

When choosing a cage for rabbits, you can opt for a cage Zolotukhin or Mikhailov

There are many options for rabbit cages, which differ in the number of tiers and sections, sizes and availability of "amenities" in the form of feeders and drinkers. On the Internet, it is easy to find author's drawings like designs by Zolotukhin or Mikhailov.

If we talk about a typical cage for adult rabbits, then the following sizes will be the optimal parameters:

Length - 120-150 cm;
Width - 60–80 cm;
Height - 60 cm.

For the rational consumption of material and for ease of maintenance, it is recommended to build paired cells. In this case, the length will increase to 3 m.

It is not worth saving space and making cells smaller. Animals must have enough free space, otherwise they become inactive, get sick and stop bearing offspring.

In appearance, a typical cage resembles a block consisting of two sections, each of which can contain one adult. Most often, wood and plywood are used in construction for the frame and interior decoration, metal mesh with small cells for walls and partitions, as well as slate for the roof.

The floor of the cage is rarely solid. Usually it is collected from narrow slats or a net is used, as this makes it easier to care for the rodents. Rabbits generate a lot of waste that goes through a mesh or slatted floor into a specially installed tray. If the flooring is made continuous, then it will have to be cleaned too often.

To make a typical cage, you will need the following materials:

Wooden bar - 10 pieces measuring 300x3x5 cm;
Plywood sheets - 2 pieces measuring 150x150x0.1 cm;
Metal mesh - 3 m with a mesh size not larger than 15 mm;
Self-tapping screws - about 2 kg. You will need sizes 3 and 7 cm;
Fittings - door hinges and latches;
Perhaps wooden floor slats as an alternative to metal mesh.

Tools for the job:

Hand saw or grinder;
Metal scissors or wire cutters;
Screwdriver or hammer with nails (instead of self-tapping screws);
Roulette, pencil, level.

Drawing

Drawing of a typical rabbit cage

The drawing shows all the main structural elements and the dimensions in cm.

Manufacturing instruction

Construction should begin with the manufacture of the frame. Collect it from a wooden bar, which is sawn to size and fastened to screws or nails. If possible, it is recommended to deepen the legs of the frame into the ground for greater stability of the structure.
The floor of the future cage is collected from slats, between which gaps of 0.5–1 cm are left, or a metal mesh is placed. Closed nest compartments on the sides of the cage can be made solid by placing plywood.
The back and side walls of the cage and the feeder are also made of plywood.
Having made the doors using a metal mesh and the remains of wood, you should fix them with fittings.
At the end of the work, the cage is covered with a roof. Depending on the external conditions, they put a double roof (plywood and slate on top) or simply cover it with slate.

Video: A typical do-it-yourself rabbit cage

In addition to the covered part, the cage for decorative rabbits must have an open

The more spacious the home for a decorative rabbit is, the better. The comfort of the animal is also provided by the construction of two-story structures or open-air cages for walking. Decorative rabbits, as a rule, are kept indoors, therefore, the requirements for thermal insulation and protection from external factors are much lower for the design of the dwelling.

The floor covering in a decorative rabbit cage should be solid and soft. The surface of the legs of decorative rodents is prone to inflammation and deformation, since it does not have soft pads. The ideal option is a wooden floor covered with soft absorbent material (sawdust, special wood filler, soft straw, absorbent napkins, etc.).

Required tools and materials

Making a cage for keeping decorative rabbits involves the use of the following materials:

Sheets of plywood, chipboard or wooden boards: it is better to take with a margin, focusing on the size of the cage (90x60x45 cm);
Sheet metal (tin can be used): 90x60 cm;
Wooden slats;
Metal mesh: 60x45 cm minimum;
Self-tapping screws or nails;
Door fittings.

Tools for the job:

Saw, hacksaw or jigsaw;
Screwdriver or hammer;
Nippers or scissors for metal;

Drawing

Drawing of a multi-tiered cage for decorative rabbits

Dimensions in the drawing are in centimeters. The size and design of the cage are optimal for keeping one adult in a heated room.

Manufacturing instruction

The construction of a cage for a decorative rabbit begins from the floor. A 90x60 cm base is cut out of a chipboard or wooden board.
A metal shield of similar dimensions is placed on a wooden base.
Then, from wood or chipboard, panels are prepared for walls with dimensions: 45x60 cm.
The frame is assembled with nails or self-tapping screws.
The door is made of wooden slats and metal mesh. The optimal size for the door is 30x30 cm.
The second tier is made of the same material as the walls and is installed inside the cage.
The ladder is made of slats, keeping a width of at least 15 cm, and set it close to the second tier, carefully fixing it.

It is quite simple to make a cage for keeping decorative rabbits. Even novice rabbit breeders who have no experience in construction and design will cope with the task. It is not worth painting the cell surface with paints and varnishes, since rodents can be poisoned by toxic substances, gnawing through the structural elements.

Video: do-it-yourself two-story rabbit cage

Design features

All rabbit cages are designed according to general principles, however, different types of shelters have their own characteristics. The nuances of the designs depend mainly on the breeds and individuals that the breeder plans to keep. In any productive farm, several groups of rabbits of different ages or even breeds are kept at the same time.

Depending on whether the rabbit cage will be outdoors or indoors, you should choose suitable materials for construction and plan the dimensions of the structure. Cages can have from 1 to 3 tiers and an unlimited number of sections in length.

For rabbits of different ages (newborns, young animals, adults), special conditions are required, and accordingly, the cages for them will be different. For example, pregnant females with newborn rabbits are kept in special uterine cells with nests.

The size of the cages should be planned so that the animals have ample space and space. Obviously, the cages for giant rabbits and dwarf individuals will be very different from each other.

Depending on the size of the rabbits

The size of the cage is directly related to the size of future residents.

The optimal size for a spacious cage, which contains a pair of adult rabbits of standard sizes:

Length - 120-170 cm;
Width - 60–80 cm;
Height - 50-60 cm.

Dwarf and decorative (up to 4–5 kg) rabbits will have more modest conditions:

Length - 70–90 cm;
Width - 35–55 cm;
Height - 30-50 cm.

The giant rabbits will need much more space:

Length - 85-100 cm;
Width - 70–80 cm;
Height - 60-80 cm.

Multi-tiered cages

Productive rabbit breeding involves the simultaneous maintenance of a large number of rodents of different sex and age. To the aid of rabbit breeders come multi-tiered structures for keeping animals. The cages are installed in both two and three tiers. Rabbit cages on several levels are permanent structures, which, nevertheless, are quite simple to build on your own.

Popular among the owners of rabbit farms are multi-tiered cages according to Zolotukhin's drawings. They have several advantages:

Roominess;
The ability to keep all representatives of rabbit families (females, young animals and males) in one place;
It is convenient to look after animals;
Zolotukhin's cells are quite mobile - they can be moved from place to place.

Depending on the destination

If a rabbit with rabbits live in a cage, then they definitely need to arrange a secluded place

Depending on the purpose, rabbit cages are divided into several types, each of which has its own design features:

A standard permanent containment cage. A drawing of such a cage is easy to find on the Internet and build a home for rodents on your own. Pay attention to the size of the cage, which should not be too small, and the safety of materials;
The breeding cage should be much more spacious, since several individuals will be in it at the same time;
A special type of house for a rabbit with rabbits or a pregnant female is called a queen cell. Privacy and warmth are the two main components of the comfort of a pregnant rabbit and her newborn bunnies. As a rule, the mother cell has solid walls, a kind of house imitating a cramped mink and devices for feeding the mother;
The calf cage meets the standard requirements, but is often equipped with an additional walking enclosure. The ability to exercise a little has a beneficial effect on the growth and development of immature cubs. The walking area is made of metal mesh and often gives the animals access to fresh grass.

Depending on the climate and season

The optimum temperature around for the normal well-being of rabbits is 14-16 degrees. Maintaining a normal climate in houses and protecting animals from rain and wind are the main requirements for the design of rabbit cages.

In large rabbit farms, the maintenance of rodents in winter and summer provides for different types of cages. Winter ones are insulated with OSB or other fiber, sometimes they carry out water heating.

In regions with a temperate climate without sharp temperature changes, you can keep rabbits all year round in the same portable structures, which are transferred to a closed room when the first cold weather sets in. In the summer, such cells are again moved to the open air.

Choosing a location for installation

You can place rabbit cages both indoors and outdoors. Outdoor maintenance is recommended only for regions with a warm climate or in the case of the construction of well-insulated heated structures.

Rabbits do not tolerate high humidity, therefore, in the open air, you should choose a place remote from water bodies, preferably on a hill. Direct sunlight can also harm the health of rodents, so future rabbit breeders need to provide a special shed or hedge.

When placing cages with rabbits indoors, the open part of the structure should be turned towards the windows. This will increase the daylight hours for the animals and give them more warmth. Daylight hours are generally very important for breeding, especially for young individuals. Therefore, in the autumn-winter period, it will be necessary to install additional lamps for additional illumination and heating of the cells.

Do not forget about the general hygiene in the premises where animals are kept. Rabbits generate a lot of waste that needs to be removed in a timely manner. It is recommended to thoroughly clean the entire structure and the room itself at least once a year. This will prevent the growth of bacteria and viruses.

Arrangement

Rabbit Cage Feeder Options

In addition to the walls, floor and ceiling, the rabbits' permanent housing provides for the supply of fresh water and feed. Now you can buy ready-made drinkers and feeders in stores or through specialized sites. However, you can make your own simple feeders and drinkers.

Some rabbit cage blueprints have built-in structures, and some have feeding attachments that need to be installed separately.

The floor covering for decorative domestic rabbits must be soft to prevent the development of pododermatitis in the animal. The best options are sawdust or absorbent textile blankets.

How to crate your rabbit

If the cage is comfortable, the rabbit will quickly get used to it.

In their natural environment, rabbits live in burrows. It is very difficult to provide them with the proper privacy when keeping animals productively. If a rabbit cage is improperly designed, has sharp corners, a small space, or is in a noisy environment, the animals will experience stress that adversely affects their health and reproductive function.

To accustom a rabbit to a new home is quite simple: you just need to provide him with the most comfortable living conditions.

Rabbit breeding is a popular and profitable business in the countryside. Animals are kept in special cages that you can make yourself. Using the information and advice from this article, anyone, even the most inexperienced rabbit breeder, will be able to design the right cage that is ideal for his rabbits.

Rabbit breeders rarely buy ready-made factory cages. In the manufacture of the latter, today much attention is paid to the aesthetic side of the premises for rabbits: such products are beautiful, original, but they are expensive and do not always correspond to the standards of maintenance. It is much more economical to make housing for rabbits from available materials at hand with your own hands. This is quite within the power of many animal breeders.

Show all

Outdoor cages

The outer cage system for keeping rabbits is considered the most beneficial and most appropriate to their physiology.

The production of cells is possible from any building materials:

brick;
building blocks;
boards and beams from any wood;
metal mesh and die-cut;
slate and roofing material.

Beautiful and original designs for keeping rabbits

Classic double design

Double cage with a permanent queen cell

The roughage nursery is hung from the outside, and the trough and drinker are placed inside. Sometimes a manhole is constructed into a walk surrounded by a metal mesh.

Option 1: with a permanent mother liquor

The most common design for raising rabbits at home is considered a cage for two rabbits, developed by scientists at the Institute of Animal Breeding and Rabbit Breeding almost 70 years ago.

Main dimensions:

length 200 cm;
width 65 cm;
the height of the front wall is 55 cm;
back wall height 40 cm.

The structure is installed on wooden supports at a height of 80 cm, this is the optimal size for convenient handling of animals. For breeding large breeds, it is permissible to increase the width and height by 5-10 cm, and the length by 50 cm.

The nesting department is permanently established. Primary requirements:

boardwalk or plywood floor;
facade length 40 cm;
the width of the mother liquor is equal to the width of the cell;
manhole 20 cm high and 17 cm wide;
the presence of an external door for monitoring the offspring.

The cage is divided by a hay nursery made of two frames covered with a 35x35 mm mesh. The aft compartments are fitted with mesh doors on both sides. Detachable hinged feeders and drinkers.

Option 2: insert queen cells

The difference between cells with a plug-in mother liquor is to use it as needed. The dimensions of the portable nesting compartment are 40x30x20 cm, it is made of plywood. When installed, the rabbit has an additional resting place at the top of the insert box.

The absence of a permanent nesting compartment allows you to slightly reduce the size of the house for rabbits:

length 142 cm;
width 70 cm;
heights of the front and rear walls: 79 and 56 cm.

A design of this type is called maple-chegodaevskaya. When the cages are not occupied by adult rabbits, young animals can be kept in them, 3-4 heads per place.

Plug-in mother liquor

The need for building materials

The consumption of building materials for one double cage is:

board, timber - 0.2 cubic meters m;
metal mesh for the floor with a cell of 18x18 mm - 1.3 sq. m;
mesh for walls with a cell 35x35 mm - 0.6 sq. m.

The appearance of a double cage

Group cages for young animals

The need for area or stocking density of young stock, sorted by age and sex, is 0.25 sq. m per head, the optimal joint keeping is up to 10 rabbits. Based on these figures, simple group dwellings are being built. They can stretch up to 7 meters in length, the groups are separated only by partitions in a common long cage.

The structure has a 70 cm wide shelter and a 1 meter wide net walk. Single-storey structures are grouped into blocks for ease of maintenance.

In the south, rabbit dwellings are installed facing west to avoid heatstroke in animals.

Roof and additional tiers

The roof of the cages is made of boards with a front overlap of 25-30 cm and a back one up to 20 cm.

Insulating roofing can be any: profile, slate, roofing felt or other materials. But it is better to cover structures for keeping rabbits with natural materials, for example, reed mats or straw mats.

Tiers

If you arrange a plank roof without a slope, and install another cage on top of it, similar to the first, you get a two-tier structure. This is the optimal solution when there is a shortage of territory for arranging cages on one floor, but on condition that a metal or plastic pan for collecting feces is installed under the bottom of the top.

Three-tiered and multi-tiered structures are possible. But in this case, there may be difficulties with the maintenance of the upper cells.

Bunk cages under a canopy

8 basic steps to making a cage

A detailed guide to making a house for rabbits with all the variety of options for structures and methods of their construction is based on one diagram.

Scheme of a classic double cage

Step-by-step instructions for making a cage:

1. A drawing is drawn up or a typical version of the cell is taken.
2. A place for the rabbitry is determined, on which, according to the dimensions in the plan, supports are installed from wooden (brick, stone, block, metal) pillars.
3. Anchor points are connected (connected) between themselves by wooden beams in a single plane at one level.
4. On a flat, large, strictly horizontally installed table, a strong frame frame of the floor of the future cage is assembled (from a bar with a cross section of at least 50x50 mm).
5. A net for the floor is attached to the frame or boards are stuffed in the case of solid floors for the mother liquor.
6. The frame frames of the side and rear walls are assembled in turn with the simultaneous reinforcement of a metal mesh on them, the required number of doors to the aft and uterine compartments, if necessary, continuous sheathing of the rear walls is performed.
7. The roofing board is assembled from the boards.
8. Starting from the floor frame, all manufactured parts of the floor, walls and roof are assembled into a single structure, which is fixed on the supports.

Cell framework

It is not necessary to nail or supplement anything in the cage already installed on the supports unnecessarily: everything must be taken into account before installing the structure on the supports. Otherwise, it will become unreliable and short-lived.

According to this plan, you can build homemade rabbit houses of any type from various materials.

Non-standard solutions and ideas for making cells

Rabbit breeding is considered a fast-paying and highly profitable business with the skillful organization of a rabbit farm, even on a small plot and with insignificant start-up investments. A novice rabbit breeder can use new models and original ideas in technologies for arranging a dwelling for animals, despite the fact that they only solve local problems.

Zolotukhin's method

Professional rabbit breeders do not find anything particularly revolutionary in Zolotukhin's method, but there are still original ideas. The main postulates of an experienced rabbit breeder, based on practice and long-term observation of animals:

the floor should be solid, not mesh, and arranged with a slope towards the disposal of feces, which will prevent pododermatitis in rabbits;
only the back wall should have a small section of the mesh floor;
displacement of the 2nd tier a short distance towards the faeces runoff will ensure the normal sanitary condition of the lower row;
displacement of the 3rd tier relative to the second will provide cleanliness in the second, and so on.

Cell design according to Mikhailov

Academician Mikhailov's method called "accelerated rabbit breeding" is aimed at creating the most comfortable and ideal sanitary conditions for raising rabbits. This goal is inherent in the design of a rabbit house, which is quite difficult to make on your own.

The use of Mikhailov's system gives good results. But the price of cells of such a design is too high, and the payback period is quite long.

Dwellings for rabbits according to Mikhailov

Most inexpensive options

These include quick-build and durable structures made entirely of metal mesh. But keeping animals outdoors in mesh houses in the fresh air is impossible in the Russian climate. Therefore, when using such cages, a room is necessary, and this may not be affordable for the breeder.

It is rather difficult to create conditions for the cultivation of these animals, identical to their natural habitat. But developments in this direction are already underway.

Building cages for rabbits involves certain questions: how many and what breed of rabbits you will breed, whether you will be breeding. After that, we already choose the type of aviary and start work. We use the most affordable materials - plywood or wood, mesh and slate. Since the rabbits will gnaw the cells from the inside, we do not use in our work what can harm their health: chemical antiseptics, materials with metal shavings.

The main types of aviaries - what are they in common and how are they different?

Rabbits are capricious animals. The aviary can be located both indoors and outdoors. But street cages are suitable only for the southern regions, otherwise the eared ones will freeze in winter. The optimum temperature for keeping rabbits is from 10 to 20 degrees. In aviaries, drafts, direct sunlight and humidity above 75% should be avoided. Considering all this, find the most optimal place and start choosing the type of aviary.

There are several types of cages for rabbits:

simple cells, with or without a queen cell; with or without an open-air cage;
cells of I. N. Mikhailov;
cells of N.I. Zolotukhin.

Regardless of the type of enclosure, it is placed at a height of at least 70 cm from the ground in one or more tiers. This can be done using high legs or wall mounts. Thus, rabbits will be protected from rodents and other animals, and the air in the premises will be better circulated. The size of a rabbit's house depends on breed, gender and age.

Simple cells - advantages and disadvantages

To make aviaries with their own hands, they try to take natural materials, for example, boards. Since rabbits chew on everything they come across, chipboard should not be used. It is both harmful to animals and will quickly crumble. Often from the inside, the rabbit housing is protected from the teeth of animals with iron sheathing. But this can be done only if the temperature of the content is stable both in winter and summer. Otherwise, the iron will be very hot from the sun or cool in winter.

Particular attention is paid to the floor of the aviary. Rabbit urine is very caustic and therefore eats wood. Most often, the floor is made of mesh. Sometimes a lattice of wooden slats is stuffed. This will allow all stool to flow downward. It will be much easier to clean the cages, which means that rabbits are less likely to get sick.

When making cages for decorative rabbits, they do not use a net, because due to the lack of pads on their legs, they simply cannot sit on such a floor for a long time.

Attach the mother house to the enclosures if you plan to breed rabbits. It is in the mother liquor that the female gives birth and nurses the rabbits. Only when they get stronger does she move to the main room. The quality and quantity of offspring is affected by the attached open-air cage, since the high mobility of individuals contributes to their reproduction.

Mikhailov's cages - rabbit mini-farm

Mikhailov's design is more complex aviaries suitable for large households. They are often used in industry, helping to significantly reduce labor costs. The construction of such an enclosure is patented, has automatic cleaning and feeding, heated queen cells. Most often it is a three-level house with a middle floor for feeding and an upper floor for walking. It is quite difficult to build it yourself; this requires good construction experience and significant financial costs.

Zolotukhin cells - saving space and building material

Zolotukhin's cells are easier to manufacture. Their main distinguishing feature is that the floor is made with a slope. For it, not the usual mesh is used, but plywood or slate. The mesh is installed only at the very wall of the cell. According to studies, rabbits in 90% of cases relieve themselves at the walls. Zolotukhin's design takes up little space, the cells in it are arranged in three rows of two each. This saves both space and material to work with. Such enclosures are well suited for keeping a large number of rabbits; it is impractical to use them for several individuals.

Making an ordinary cage

To save material and space, the cages are made at least paired. For the base, a board with a length of 3 m by 0.7 m is taken.This way you can fit two compartments of 1.5 meters long. These cage sizes are suitable for young animals or males. For females, a smaller size is enough. First of all, you need to prepare dimensional drawings based on advice and illustrations.

To manufacture the specified structure, you will need:

2 sheets of plywood (1.5 x 1.5 meters);
10 three-meter bars (30 by 50 mm);
3 m mesh with 15 mm meshes;
screws and tools for work.

The mesh size in the used mesh should not exceed 20 mm, otherwise the rabbits will get stuck in them.

Before making a homemade aviary, many farmers advise treating the tree with antibacterial impregnations. It is worth choosing the safest formulations, since otherwise you can poison the animal. First of all, a frame with a height of 1.2 in the front and 1 meter in the back is made from the bars.

Then the floor is hemmed with a net. It is not necessary to reach the edges with the net, the queen cells will be located there, and the floor in them is made without holes. The back wall is made of plywood, fastened with self-tapping screws to the bars. On the edges, mother liquors are also made of plywood. The ceiling in them is slightly lowered so that they look more like a hole. A small hole is made in the side wall, with a diameter of 16 centimeters. Such a mother cell can be made removable if desired.

A feeder is made in the center. It is more convenient to divide it into two parts: for feed and for hay. The first is a tall box with a bowl base. And the second is a trapezoidal mesh box.

The roof is made of plywood with gaps of 5-10 centimeters. You can make it in two parts, leaving a gap in the middle. It will be convenient to fill the feeders in it. Then the doors are made using bars and mesh.

Following the same step-by-step instructions, you can make a cage in two or three floors. But in this case, the roof is covered with some kind of protective material. For example, upholstered with sheet iron or polycarbonate. Then your rabbit house will last longer.

Making a cage Zolotukhin

Making an aviary using the Zolotukhin method with your own hands is not much more difficult than building an ordinary cage. To do this, you will need:

wooden beams;
grid;
boards;
sheet metal;
polycarbonate;
slate.

An aviary of the following dimensions will be built: 2 m wide, 1.5 m high, 80 cm deep. The slope of the floor is 5 centimeters, a 20-centimeter strip of mesh will be located at the back wall.

First, we build a similar frame for the aviary. We leave a place for the sennik in the middle. But the floor, unlike a regular cage, is not lined with mesh, but with durable slate. Do not forget to indent 20 centimeters from the back wall.

The rear walls are made of polycarbonate. They need to be fixed at an angle so that the upper part of the wall joins the slate edge of the floor of the next floor. And at the very top tier, it is straight. This pattern allows the rabbit droppings to roll down the walls.

On the sides of the structure, closed queen cells are made in the same way as for a normal cage. All other walls and doors of the enclosure are made of mesh.

The feeder in the Zolotukhin model is also not simple. It is inserted directly into the door and is held in place by hinged nails. This allows you to add feed and clean the trough without opening the door. It takes up about 2/3 of the door width. The outer wall of the trough is twice as high as the inner one.

It is not for nothing that Zolotukhin's cells have long been very popular: they are simple to manufacture and convenient to maintain.

It is best to start building enclosures with the simplest option. Later, taking into account the experience gained, you can move on to more complex structures, including Mikhailov's mini-farm.