How to properly lay a wooden floor. Do-it-yourself floor from edged boards Floor in the country from edged non-planed boards

Gender selection

The floor is the most intensively exploited part of the room. Therefore, the coating for it should be chosen from particularly durable materials. Today the flooring market is diverse and will satisfy the desires of any buyer.

Floor coverings are divided into:

roll and sheet (linoleum, synthetic pile coating, superhard fiber boards);
piece materials (parquet, boards, ceramic tiles, laminate, concrete and stone slabs).

Rolled and sheet materials in the modern market are mainly represented by all kinds of linoleum and pile coverings. They are widely used in residential and office buildings with relatively low traffic intensity.

Piece materials (parquet, board, ceramic tiles, laminate) are most often used in residential premises. Parquet floors are laid both from block parquet (individual planks) and mounted from parquet boards or parquet boards. Laminate floors are more hard and durable than parquet, and can be used not only in residential premises, but also in offices.

When choosing a floor covering, you need to pay attention to:

the appearance of the coating. It must match (in style and color) the interior of the room;
the quality of the material. Not only the appearance, but also the service life depends on it;
expenses. They consist of the costs of installation and maintenance and repairs over the entire life of the coating. Not always seemingly cheap floor covering gives the desired savings;
environmental safety of the selected materials.

Clean and black floor

By design, all types of wood flooring consist of the so-called clean floor and sub-floor (base). A clean floor is the upper layer of the floor that is walked on and is directly exposed to operational influences. The subfloor is the basis for laying a clean floor. It should be remembered that the subfloor on the first floors (above the basement) must be insulated with some kind of heat insulators (mineral plates and other heaters) in combination with a vapor barrier film. As a base (subfloor), you can use chipboard (not less than 18 mm thick), plywood (not less than 12 mm), plank flooring (not less than 20 mm).

If a new floor is being laid on an old wooden floor, it is necessary to make sure that it is able to withstand the loads and that there is moisture protection under it.

If the base (subfloor) is sufficiently reliable, then the waterproofing can be laid directly on the old coating.

Wood sorting

The main characteristics of the wood used for flooring are hardness, strength, density. The higher the hardness and density of wood, the less wear it is. At present, thanks to new technologies for drying and processing wood, a high-strength material (massive board) is obtained that meets parquet standards.

A high-quality solid board is a super-red heat insulator, has high strength and elasticity, a groove is made on both sides along the edges of the board, which allows the floorboards to be tightly joined. The width of the board ranges from 80 to 150 mm, length - from 600 to 3000 mm. Usually the thickness of the floorboard is 20-40mm.

Wood products are sorted by saw cut, i.e. wood texture, by the presence of knots, the absence of sapwood (the young part of the wood located closer to the bark) and defects (cracks, cross-layer - deviation of direction from the longitudinal axis of the tree) ... It is quite problematic to check the quality of the material and determine the variety for a layman. Better consult a specialist.

Practice shows that the best material for solid wood floors that meets all modern standards is produced by large enterprises. Therefore, when buying a board, preference should be given to large manufacturers and sellers that have proven themselves in the market. Usually, the higher the price of the item, the higher the quality.

Floors on a concrete slab above an exploited basement

Laying methods. It is necessary to start laying the floor after the completion of all basic work: windows, door frames and doors are installed, the plastered surfaces are dried, ceilings and screeds are mounted. The relative humidity in the room during the installation of the floor should be about 40-60%. The floorboard can be laid in different ways: using the so-called parquet technology and on logs.

The first way (parquet technology) consists in laying the boards on a prepared flat base, for example, waterproof plywood, chipboard. It is preferable if the thickness of the board is no more than 25 mm and the developer does not want to reduce the height of the room. The floor thickness in this case will be 30-40 mm, including waterproofing, plywood and the board itself.

Second way (laying on logs) has several features. Firstly, the thickness of the boards should be 40 mm (depending on the species and type of wood, and slightly less), since the material should withstand normal load without noticeable deflections. Secondly, the height of the room ceilings will decrease by 65-90 mm. If the ceilings are high enough, this feature may not be attributed to disadvantages. The obvious advantage of this method of laying is the ability to smooth out almost any differences in floor level without additional costs and weighting the structure that occurs when leveling the floor with a cement screed or self-leveling mixture. In addition, electrical wiring, telephone and antenna cables can be installed under the floor.

Preparatory work before laying logs on the overlap of the underground garage

The first thing to do is to determine the quality of the subfloor (monolith or cement screed). The quality of the tie is checked by visual inspection and tapping. A good screed must not have cracks. The screed sections that have come off as a result of tapping must be replaced. It takes 30 days for the screed to dry completely and the humidity in the room to return to normal. After that, hydro and sound insulation is laid. Strips of rolled polyethylene with an overlap of 20 cm are laid on the screed.

To increase sound insulation, an additional layer of pressed cork or sheet rubber can be placed on the screed.

Sometimes polyethylene foam with a thickness of 3-3.5 mm is used, which simultaneously serves as both waterproofing and soundproofing. The sound-insulating material is laid directly on the waterproofing film end-to-end and the joints are fastened with tape.

What should be the lags

For logs, non-planed boards of the 2nd and 3rd grades are used from healthy coniferous and deciduous wood, with the exception of linden and poplar. Boards can be blunt without bark. The thickness of the logs, resting with the entire lower surface on the floor slabs or the sound-proof layer, should be 40 mm, width - 80-100 mm. The thickness of the logs laid on separate supports (columns in the floors on the ground, floor beams, etc.) should be 40-50 mm, width - 100-120 mm. The width of the wooden spacers, laid on posts under the logs in the floors on the ground, should be 100-150 mm, the length - 0.2-0.25 m, the thickness - at least 25 mm.

Laying logs on the overlap of an underground garage

This is one of the most demanding jobs, since the strength and durability of the entire floor structure depends on it. As a lag, a 50x100 mm bar is used, which is pre-dried and covered with a wood preservative. The moisture content of the log at the time of installation should not exceed 15%. But it is better to dry the timber before laying. During the drying process, it can bend or twist, and such bars are necessarily rejected.

The direction of laying the boards can be any and depends on the wishes of the designer and builder. However, the logs should always be perpendicular to the boards. Usually, the floorboard is laid along the direction of light from the window, therefore, the logs are laid perpendicular to this direction with a step of 50-55 cm. The length of the step depends on the thickness of the board and the type of wood from which it is made. The thicker and stronger the board, the more load it can withstand, therefore, the distance between the lags can be greater.

Mount lag

The wooden floor must have a zero slope, so the logs must be constantly checked before fastening with a level or level along and across the room. It is recommended to fasten the ends of the logs so that they do not disperse when laying the boards.

The lags are fixed to the concrete base with 120 mm long dowel-nails every 0.5 m and leveled with wooden wedges.

Currently, there are adjustable joists on sale, which are leveled with special spacer screws. This significantly simplifies and speeds up the installation process, but increases the cost of floor production and slightly reduces the height of the ceilings. To improve sound insulation and eliminate the resonance of the floor voids when walking, the cavities between the logs can be filled with wood-fiber boards in 2-3 layers.

Floorboard flooring

After installing and leveling the logs and laying fiberboard, proceed directly to the flooring of the floorboard. It is necessary to lay the floor so that the annual rings of adjacent boards are directed in opposite directions. The first row of boards is laid at a distance of 1.5 cm from the wall and aligned along the stretched thread. Boards are attached to each log. Each subsequent board is put on a spike, hammered with a mallet and nailed 100-120 mm. The dimensions of the boards themselves are selected (if necessary, they are cut down) so that the joints between them are in the middle of the log and are located exactly at right angles to the long edge of the board.

For ventilation in the wooden floor in the corners of the room, it is advisable to drill 3-4 holes with a diameter of 10-15 mm, which are closed with a grill.

On the top of the beams, grooves up to 20 mm are cut out to their entire width, which also improve air circulation. The gaps between the wall and the floor are covered with skirting boards. Skirting board is a figured strip 20-50 mm wide and 40-70 mm high. TV and telephone cables can be run under the skirting board. For this, as well as for ventilation, the back side of the skirting board is made with a removable bevel. After laying the cables (if necessary), the plinth is fastened to the wall with nails or screws, and the holes are sealed with mastic or plastic plugs.

Sanding plank floor

The best way to sand plank floors is to use a mobile floor sander. With removable sanding belts of various grain sizes: coarse for hard wood, medium for soft wood and fine for finishing. To grind the floor near walls and other areas not accessible to a floor machine, use an angle grinder ("grinder") with abrasive nozzles of different grain sizes.

The floor is sanded in several passes, gradually reducing the grain size of the sanding belt (circle). Between the first and second sanding with a special putty mixed with wood dust, minor gaps and wood flaws are closed. After that, the cracks are made completely invisible.

Painting, varnishing

Immediately before painting, it is necessary to thoroughly vacuum the floor, clean it from wood residues and dust. The surface can be treated with a tinting compound. Parquet varnish (preferably on a polyurethane base) is applied in several layers: usually in two layers, but a third may be needed.

At present, strong and stable nitro varnishes, which are not convenient to use and are not hazardous to human health, are gradually being replaced by one-component polyurethane and acrylatex compounds that are diluted with water. They are easy to apply, dry quickly and have almost no smell.

Polyurethane varnish is usually applied in two layers. Varnish and paint are applied along the boards. The first layer should not be too thick. The second coat is usually applied after two hours.

Overlapping in a wooden house

The structure on which the floors of the first floor are located is called the basement. The main bearing elements of the basement overlap are brick posts with a cross section of 25x25 cm. The posts are made of solid brick of grade 75 (at least) on cement mortar grade 25. The distance between the posts should be within 0.5-1 m. After carrying out waterproofing on the posts, beams or logs are laid, on which the floors are then laid.

Beams without intermediate supports

In the case when it is possible to use a sufficiently strong and long beam, the basement ceiling is installed along the beams. If the beams are laid 0.6 m from each other, then the floorboards should be at least 28 mm thick. With a distance between the beams of 0.75 m, floorboards with a thickness of 36 mm are used. So that the boards do not warp and there are no gaps between them, their width should not exceed 12 cm. The logs and boards do not reach the walls by 2-3 cm. The gaps between the flooring and the walls are closed with a plinth.

Plank flooring technology for wooden floors

The boards should be selected so that the cleaner ones, without knots, chips and other defects, are laid in rooms, and with defects - in corridors, semi-dark and dark rooms. The boards should not contain woodworm beetles or traces of mold of house fungus. Therefore, it is imperative to carry out antiseptic treatment.

Plank floors are laid directly along the beams, if their step is relatively small. With a sparse arrangement of beams, it is necessary to lay logs with the desired step, and on them already fill the boards. The logs are located at a distance between the axes of 800-850 mm for boards with a thickness of 35-40 mm. With thicker boards, the step between the lags can be increased to 1 m, with thinner boards - reduced to 500-600 mm.

The wooden floor must have a zero slope, therefore, beams and joists must be constantly checked with a level or level along and across the room.

It is recommended to fasten the ends of the logs so that they do not diverge when laying the boards. The floor should fit snugly against beams or joists and not bend. It is not recommended to put chips or wedges under logs and boards, as they fall out from vibration and the floors become unstable. If, nevertheless, wedges are necessary, then they need to be fixed with nails.

Fastening plank floors to wooden floors

The first board is attached to the log with nails, the length of which should be 2-2.5 times the thickness of the boards. Nails are driven in one (two) into each lag, driving the head 2-3 mm deep.

The gap between the boards should be no more than 1 mm.

Before painting the floors, the grooves around the caps are putty. For a tight installation of the next board (so that it does not give a rebound), a tongue-and-groove bar is laid on the next lag and wedged with an emphasis in a steel bracket. This technique is called rallying. To avoid damaging the boards, hit them with a hammer through a wooden gasket.

Plank flooring "parquet method"

In the first board, a nail is driven closer to the wall so that its head is under the baseboard. Then, at an angle of 45 °, a nail is driven into each lag of the inner corner of the ridge, and the cap is "drowned" in the thickness of the wood. The second board is applied to the first board, putting a groove on the comb and pressing it with staples and wedges. Nails should be driven first into the extreme lags, then into the remaining ones. The last boards should be pressed with a wedge and a straight nail driven vertically into the skirting board.

Plank floor ventilation

To prevent the development of mold, a ventilated space should be provided under the flooring plane, and it is advisable to place special ventilation grilles in the floor itself (at least two pieces in each room). Four grates are placed in large rooms. They are placed in the corners at a distance of 150-200 mm from the baseboards.

Sometimes, instead of gratings, several holes with a diameter of 1 cm are drilled in the plinth at a distance of 500-600 mm. Two layers of roofing material should be placed under the logs, resting on brick posts, to provide waterproofing and protect the wood from mold.

Milled plank floors

Due to the tongue-and-groove edges, milled plank floors are characterized by increased density, evenness and less tendency to deform with fluctuations in temperature and humidity. The width of such boards should be 68-138 mm, and the thickness 28 or 36 mm. At the bottom of each board, a longitudinal recess (air) with a height of 2 mm is selected, which provides a closer contact with the logs and constant air circulation throughout the inter-lag space. It is necessary to prevent the development of mold and dry the floor covering.

Grooved plank floors

Lower grooves are not made on sheet piling boards, and it is more difficult to lay them, since at the slightest unevenness the boards cannot be laid tightly on logs or beams, and irregularities have to be removed with a sharp edge. For grooved boards, the front side is planed, and seams are selected from the edges. In addition, such boards may have grooves on both sides, which are connected by a rail during assembly. The density of such floors and the quality of finishing are higher than those of milled ones.

Siberian larch floors

Siberian larch has a high density, so sometimes you can use boards with a smaller section and thereby save material. By the way, unlike some types of parquet boards, where technologies of gluing veneer of hard wood (more often oak) on a soft wood base are used, the larch floorboard is monolithic, has a homogeneous structure, and this determines its exceptional durability to wear.

Of course, due to its natural strength, the traditional breed for making parquet is oak. It should be noted, however, that the world stocks of oak suitable for flooring are limited, the cost of this wood has increased significantly in recent years. But with the advent of new technologies for processing Siberian larch, it is she who can become the main material for the production of parquet and other floor coverings.

The main advantages of Siberian larch floors

Larch parquet board is particularly hard, moisture-resistant, wear-resistant, which makes the floor so durable. Thanks to the use of modern equipment, the parquet board has an ideal geometry, and the floor is even and tight. The products are made without knots and defects on the working surface of the floor. Smooth grinding of the parquet board forms a surface ideal for tinting, varnishing or waxing, without prior sanding.

Environmentally friendly raw materials used in the production of parquet boards make it possible to use them in children's rooms and bedrooms.

Convenient docking system (groove-comb on four sides of the board) will help make the installation process easy and quick. The minimum thickness of the parquet board is 20 mm and the groove - the ridge shifted to the bottom - allows to significantly increase the service life of the coating due to the large number of possible scrapes. Along the perimeter of the board, an "anti-tiscol" chamfer is made, which makes it possible to reduce the likelihood of splitting the edge of the board during laying and favorably distinguishes the outline of the boards against the general background of the floor surface.

Wood-based flooring technology

For the construction of floors, super-hard plates 20 mm thick with a top wear layer of 5 mm are used. The joints of the slabs should be on the center lines of the lags. It is not allowed to hang the slabs from the log by more than 100 mm.

They begin to lay the slabs along the logs from one of the longitudinal walls, as a rule, the farthest from the door. A gap of 10-15 mm is left near the wall, then covered with skirting boards. After aligning the lighthouse plate, it is attached to each log with nails 50-60 mm and a diameter of 2.5-3 mm or screws 35-40 mm long and 4 mm in diameter. Nails are driven along the edge of the slab every 200 mm, the screws are placed every 300-350 mm. The next slabs are laid similarly to the lighthouse with a minimum gap of up to 1 mm. Then the plinths are installed, the joints and nail heads are covered, the surface is sanded and covered with two layers of varnish. The top layer is applied after the bottom layer has dried.

Placing a new floor on an old one

Before starting work, you must make sure that the old floor can withstand the loads and that there is moisture protection under it. If the base is reliable, then it is permissible to lay the waterproofing on the old coating, having previously made a rough grinding with an abrasive belt with a grain size of 40-60 units. It is not necessary to change the direction of laying the new coating in relation to the old one. It is enough to cover the old floor with sheets of plywood and lay a new coating on it. However, the diagonal and transverse directions of the new coating in relation to the old one are optimal.

Pros and cons of plank floors

Plank floors are a reliable and easy-to-use type of flooring, which is quite common in individual construction. The simplicity of the device is their main advantage. These floors are very warm and easy to repair. The disadvantages include low decorative qualities and such a fairly common phenomenon as creaking.

Floor insulation

Floor structures must be insulated with any effective heat insulator. However, we must not forget that wooden structures must be isolated from the insulating material. For this, you can use a polymer film, glassine or clay grease.

Prepared by A. Svatkov

The first floorboard is nailed to each beam with two nails at a distance of 2-3 centimeters from the edge.

Edged board floor: features and stages of DIY installation

If the length of the edged board is not enough for one row, it must be trimmed so that its edge is in the middle of the intersection. The next one starts from the same place.

Laying the floor with a board without a thorn

If you carefully care for a wooden floor, it retains its natural beauty for many years and provides reliable thermal insulation. Flooring is a classic version of flooring, known for a long time, with good sound insulation. But when the boards wear out, it leads to squeaks when walking, sagging boards, large gaps between them. In this case, a rewinder is required.

To change the floor with your own hands, you need a hammer, nails, a saw, lumber and wedges. Before starting work, the edged board is kept for several days in the room where the floor will be replaced. Thus, it adapts to temperature and humidity conditions. Boards are nailed at their intersection with beams. The first board is nailed to a beam two centimeters from the wall. This requires wedges of the appropriate size. This is necessary for ventilation of the underground. This gap is subsequently closed with a plinth with a strip.

Before laying the floor, the lags (beams) are being installed. They are bars with a cross section of 50 by 70 mm. When installing beams, consider the length of the boards. The distance between the beams should not be more than 50-60 centimeters and be the same along the entire length of the room. If this distance is not maintained, the floor may sag when walking on it. The beams on which the floor is laid should be treated with an antiseptic to avoid rotting.

After that, a layer of 5 rows of boards is laid, but not nailed. One row is skipped and the sixth is nailed. After that, with the help of two triangular wedges placed in the gap and two hammers, the layer of non-nailed boards is compressed. If there are long boards, several similar wedges are driven along their length. The compressed five rows are nailed or fastened with screws. Then this procedure is repeated again - a new layer of five rows of boards is laid and compressed with wedges. If there is little room for the last board, it should be cut out with an electric jigsaw. Continuing to work in this way, you can make sure that making the floor yourself from edged boards is not difficult. The side edges of the floorboards have a tongue and groove. They distribute the load evenly over the entire volume.

The nails are driven at a slight angle through the tongue of the tongue. It is advisable to place the floor boards so that the rays of the sun entering the window go along the boards, and not across. Before finishing, the floor is scraped with a special scraping machine. Sanding starts with coarse sandpaper, gradually reducing the grit size to sandpaper. Then the new floor can be varnished or painted. They are applied to the surface with a roller or brush. The floor should be soaked with varnish at least twice.

All work on flooring must be carried out at a temperature of at least 10 degrees Celsius and a humidity of no more than 60%.

The first floorboard is nailed to each beam with two nails at a distance of 2-3 centimeters from the edge. If the length of the edged board is not enough for one row, it must be cut so that its edge is in the middle of the intersection. The next one starts from the same place.

Do-it-yourself plank floor

The compressed five rows are nailed or screwed in place. Then this procedure is repeated again - a new layer of five rows of boards is laid and compressed with wedges. If there is little room for the last board, it should be cut out with an electric jigsaw. Continuing to work in this way, you can make sure that making the floor yourself from edged boards is not difficult. The side edges of the floorboards have a tongue and groove. They distribute the load evenly over the entire volume.

All work on flooring must be carried out at a temperature of at least 10 degrees Celsius and a humidity of no more than 60%.

When you order a decking or facade board, you often hear the recommendation to lay about 10% for trimming. Especially if your terrace is irregular in shape or is laid with a herringbone pattern (here it is worth making 20% \u200b\u200bof the stock, as is the case with parquet or engineered planks).

What if there are scraps left? And not 3 cm, but a little more?

This is not wasted money, rest assured. You can make a lot of useful and beautiful things from a terrace or facade board for decorating garden buildings or improving your site.

WPC pots

The most common solution is a planter or flower box from a terrace or facade board. It looks beautiful on the terrace, looks stylish and is 100% compatible in shades and texture with the main materials. The shape of the pots can be very different: rectangular, square, triangular or trapezoidal.

It is very simple to make a flowerpot from WPC with your own hands:

Decide on the desired shape and size. Sketch a simple sketch on paper, measure the board that you have. Prepare boards of the length you need.
Make the frame of the future pots from the remnants of the lag. Attach the wood-composite board to the frame using self-tapping screws. Remember, it is better to drill holes for the bindings in advance, as the composite board is very durable.
You can also make a frameless planter. Use regular aluminum corners to which you attach the board with self-tapping screws.

Flower beds

Here, the scheme of actions is approximately the same as in the case of the pots. Only the boards will need a little more. If you are going to install the structure for the flower bed directly on the ground in the garden, the bottom of the flower bed can be omitted.

Garden beds

Well-groomed beds with clearly marked boundaries are not a luxury, as many believe. In the beds, special garden soil is usually used, and in the absence of limiting structures, it is washed out and rains spread throughout the site. WPC beds will last more than one year, since the composite, unlike wood, does not rot and does not warp. For the beds, you can take both a front and a terrace board.

Sandbox for children

Playing with your child in the sandbox in the garden is a pleasure.

DIY edged board floors

Especially if the sandbox is safe: the boards from which it is made are even, without chipping, cracks or splinters. And no toxic paint. You can easily make a sandbox from the remains of the board: build a "box" - sides (front and terrace boards are suitable), then install the "benches" from the terrace board on one or several sides.

Stalls

For garden benches, you can use both a special composite beam and trimming of terrace WPC boards. The width of the seat depends on your wishes: two or three boards laid horizontally on the frame. To avoid bending of the board, follow the manufacturer's recommendations for installing terraces: the distance between the joists should be no more than 35 cm.

Swing seat

Garden swings, suspended from metal pipes or from a thick tree branch, beckon to sit down and swing a little. Delight your child and make a sturdy seat from WPC decking. Take the boards of the required length and fasten them to the frame made of logs or metal corners. Consider the ways of suspension in advance.

Tool boxes, firewood

If the boxes are on the street and attract attention, it is better to attend to their appearance. This is especially true of the storage place for firewood on the terrace or in a gazebo with an outdoor fireplace. The principle of operation is the same as in all previous examples: sketch, measurements, preparation of the frame or fastening the board to the corners. Make a cover for the box if necessary.

Shelves in the gazebo or in the garage

The deck board can also be used for shelves. Prepare the base - long ledgers - for the shelves, fix the deck board on top of them. The length of the crossbar should correspond to the width of the future shelf, and the fastening simply must be reliable, since the decking is heavy. Place the ledgers no more than 35 cm apart, even if you do not plan on placing heavy objects on them.

When using scraps of WPC board, remember a few rules:

Take measurements carefully,
Drill holes for fasteners in advance,
Use durable carbide blades for cutting,
Choose self-tapping screws and stainless steel corners (they will not disturb the aesthetic appearance of your product over time).

Let your summer cottage be the most beautiful, stylish and well-groomed!

To change the floor with your own hands, you need a hammer, nails, a saw, lumber and wedges.

Do-it-yourself wooden floor from edged boards. DIY edged board floor

Before starting work, the edged board is kept for several days in the room where the floor will be replaced. Thus, it adapts to temperature and humidity conditions. Boards are nailed at their intersection with beams. The first board is nailed to a beam two centimeters from the wall. This requires wedges of the appropriate size. This is necessary for ventilation of the underground. This gap is subsequently closed with a plinth with a strip.

All work on flooring must be carried out at a temperature of at least 10 degrees Celsius and a humidity of no more than 60%.

After that, a layer of 5 rows of boards is laid, but not nailed.

Diy wooden floor from edged boards

One row is skipped and the sixth is nailed. After that, with the help of two triangular wedges placed in the gap and two hammers, the layer of non-nailed boards is compressed. If there are long boards, several similar wedges are driven along their length. The compressed five rows are nailed or screwed in place. Then this procedure is repeated again - a new layer of five rows of boards is laid and compressed with wedges. If there is little room for the last board, it should be cut out with an electric jigsaw. Continuing to work in this way, you can make sure that making the floor yourself from edged boards is not difficult. The side edges of the floorboards have a tongue and groove. They distribute the load evenly over the entire volume.

All work on flooring must be carried out at a temperature of at least 10 degrees Celsius and a humidity of no more than 60%.

Choosing the right floorboard is just as important as the construction of the floor. After all, the final result largely depends on the board that was laid on the logs.

In the general case, the floorboard can be any lumber fixed to the joists. Most often, this name is understood as a grooved board. This is a lumber that has three finished sides - two ends and one plane - the front side. On the sides, tongues are formed with a special machine: a groove on one side, a thorn on the other. When laying, the spike is driven into a groove, which gives the coating additional strength and can partially hide the cracks formed during drying. And even a slightly cracked grooved floor looks good.

A tongue-and-groove board can have a comb of different shapes. It is most convenient for laying if it has a conical shape. The cone fits easily even with slight curvature of the boards. It is much more difficult to fight with a rectangular spike. If there are deviations, the board is not ideal, then you either have to suffer with it for a long time, or cut it into pieces no more than 2-3 meters long, and then join the segments. It turns out a completely different, untidy look.

Also, floorboards come with a "quarter" molded projection. This is when half the width of the board is removed from one side from below, from the other - from above. This type is even easier to fit than a traditional spike-groove board, while the floor looks no worse.

There is another type of floorboard - with edges beveled at 45 °. It is also not very common, although it is no worse in operation and in aesthetics.

Sometimes an ordinary edged board is laid on the floor - it has the shape of a rectangle in cross-section. It is laid close - end to end - and so fixed with nails or self-tapping screws. If we talk about baths, then when arranging leaking floors, it is the edged board that will be the best option. In other cases, preference should be given to options with any kind of locks: when drying, the cracks are not so noticeable.

In addition to the grooved solid wood board, there is also a glued one. It consists of several boards glued together. At the same time, the wood fibers are positioned so that under any conditions its geometry remains practically unchanged. If it changes, then it is several times less than massive. But due to the laboriousness of manufacturing such material, prices for it are high. But the floor from the glued board is almost guaranteed to be flat.

Types of floorboard locks

There is another type of lumber that is laid on the floor. This is a decking board. It differs in that its front part is not even, but wavy. And even if the board is wet, it is not slippery to walk on. It is rarely used indoors, mainly due to the fact that it is very difficult to bring an uneven surface to an ideal state. But during the construction of a bath, it can come in handy if you arrange a pool or hot tub on the porch. Having laid a deck board around the pool, you can not be afraid that someone will slip.

Terrace board looks very attractive on the floor

Any kind of lumber is in the Euro category. There is a floorboard Euroboard, grooved or not, there is a terrace. The only difference is in the presence of a longitudinally located groove on the back side, which contributes to better ventilation. There must be a difference in the quality of the wood: no knots. But better quality is not always available, and higher prices are always available. If you decide to take the option with a groove, be sure to meticulously check the quality of the material, geometry.

Wood species for floor

Any wood can be laid on the floor. The only question is your preferences and financial capabilities. The purpose of the premises can also play a role.

For saunas, a board of conifers is traditionally placed on the floor. She is the most inexpensive, and her quality indicators are quite good. Conifers contain a large amount of resins (pine and spruce), some contain tannins (larch), which prolongs their service life in conditions of constantly changing temperatures and humidity. The only drawback of pine and spruce is soft breeds and, if a lot of people are steamed, they quickly wear off. But if the bath is a family one, occasionally visited, then such wood will stand for a long time.

Speaking specifically about the premises, the larch will behave better in "wet" conditions: it only gets stronger from the water. Pine and spruce are best placed in a dressing room or break room. They cannot stand the constant presence of water, especially since not many people want to treat wood for steam rooms with antiseptics, and without them they will most likely start to rot.

They put wood and hardwood on the floor, but it is more prone to rotting, and even more often it darkens from water. There are some more nuances that are determined only by experience. For example, oak wood is durable, not afraid of water. But it is better not to put it on the floor in wet rooms: it is very slippery when wet. It is impossible to walk on it, so you will have to cover this beauty with anti-slip rugs.

It looks like a grooved euro-board in profile

When installing a double plank floor for roughing and finishing, the boards must be taken from the same wood. For the rough floor, unedged will go (it is imperative to remove the bark and process it from bugs), for the finishing one - edged, grooved. But only from the same wood. Otherwise, due to the different magnitudes of expansion and contraction, the floor may move with changes in temperature and humidity.

Floor board dimensions

The minimum thickness of the boards for laying on the floor is determined by the step of laying the logs. The greater the distance between two adjacent supports, the greater the thickness of the lumber needed.

Table of the dependence of the thickness of the floorboard on the step of installing the lag

But this is the minimum thickness. It is advisable to take with some margin: taking into account the fact that periodically it will be necessary to update the appearance - to grind, removing the top layer. If the thickness is taken "back to back", after one or two grinding, the floorboards will begin to sag underfoot and creak - not the greatest pleasure. To get rid of the "dancing" boards, you will have to lay new, thicker boards, or reduce the lag step (increase their number), which is also not fun.

The width of the boards can be different - from 30 mm to 120 mm. In general, it turns out like this: the wider the board, the fewer joints and faster installation. Therefore, for ordinary dry rooms, you can choose a wide board. But it must be said that a cube of a wide board costs more than the same volume of a narrower one: there is more waste.

When choosing the width of the boards in the bath, there are also some nuances. It is better not to take wide boards: with increasing humidity, they change their geometry more strongly. Sometimes it is so strong that walking becomes problematic. Therefore, in a steam room or shower, a narrow or medium-wide board is used.

How many boards are in one cubic meter

Having decided on the size of the floorboards, you need to calculate how much you need to buy: lumber is sold per cubic meters.

There are no strict standards in this industry, just as there is no clear distinction between varieties. Some growers identify only two varieties, others may have five or six. You have to navigate on the spot.

The only thing that is clear is that higher-grade products should not have knots at all. It is advisable to buy them if you want to varnish the board. If you plan to paint, then there is no point in overpaying for the absence of knots: they are still not visible under the paint. The only thing you need to pay attention to is that they are not "dead" - black. Black knots crumble and fall asleep, but we don't need it.

There is only a more or less established standard in length: 6 meters. But on many sawmills, they make both three and two meter boards. Moreover, a cubic meter of three meters will cost less than six meters. So if you don't need a long board, look for the right size: it will come out cheaper.

Now how to calculate the number of boards in a cube. To do this, you need to calculate the volume of one board. You have decided on the width and thickness of the board, knowing the standard length, you can calculate its volume: you need to multiply all the dimensions. But they must be expressed in meters.

For example, we will lay a board 40 * 150 mm. We convert millimeters to meters:

40 mm \u003d 0.04 m, 150 m \u003d 0.15 m

We will take the standard length of 6 m. The total will be 0.04 m * 0.15 m * 6 m \u003d 0.036 m 3. One board is 0.036 cubic meters. Now we find how many such boards will be in one cube (we divide the unit by 0.036), we get 27.7 pieces, but 27 pieces will be shipped.

Knowing this algorithm, you can calculate the amount of any board or timber. To make it easier for you, the volume of one board of the most popular sizes and their number in a cubic meter are calculated and entered in the table (for six-meter lumber).

Now about the volume of purchases. Having calculated how many boards you will need, take with a margin of at least 10-15% (and preferably 30%). Firstly, there is always a marriage, and secondly, most likely in a year or two, the floor will have to be sorted out - cracks will appear, some boards will be unscrewed with a "propeller". And then you will need to change or add boards. If there is nothing left, then those bought from another batch are unlikely to become normal. There will definitely be problems: either it will not go in thickness, or there will be problems with a spike-groove. In general, some pieces should be in stock for a couple of years.

How to choose

First of all, you need to determine the humidity. The most optimal option for baths is an average humidity of about 20-25%. If you take a board of natural moisture, it will lead when drying, there will be many "skis" and "propellers". Then they can only be used when building fences. If you take overdried - chamber drying - in conditions of high humidity in the bath, it will begin to swell, the floor will warp and rise. So the best option is medium humidity.

The first step in buying is to check the geometry. When choosing an edged board, pay attention to the fact that the edges are even. And the thickness on one side was equal to the thickness on the other side. In principle, this parameter should be checked when buying any high-quality sawn timber (except for unedged boards). Take a caliper and measure in several places along the board from one side and the other. There shouldn't be any difference.

When buying grooved boards, you should also pay attention to the geometry and dimensions of the ridge and groove. In order for everything to connect without problems, the groove is made a little deeper than the height of the ridge. Then everything fits together easily. On an incorrectly tuned machine, the opposite is often the case. Then, no matter how hard you try, you won't be able to make a floor without cracks. We'll have to either change the boards (if possible) or remove part of the spike.

There is one more mistake that is made in the production of grooved boards: the upper edge above the spike (ridge) is more profiled than the lower one. With such a defect, cracks are generally inevitable: it is more difficult to deal with this defect. Only special equipment is required.

You also need to check how much the boards sagged during drying. They are stacked in piles, shifting with bars. Sometimes they become uneven. Then, when laying, it will be problematic to join them.

All of these shortcomings are fairly easy to identify. First you need to inspect the ends of the boards. If you know what to look for (and you now know), the flaws are immediately visible. Estimate the dimensions of the spike and groove, and also see if the edges are evenly located above the spike. If everything is ok, take two planks and join them as if laying. If their geometry is not broken, they fit easily and without gaps. If the tests are successful, the tongue-and-groove floorboard can be taken and installed quickly and easily.

How and what to fix

A few years ago, there were no discrepancies: the floorboard was nailed to the logs through and through. Sometimes the hat was flattened and then driven into the depths by a doboiner so that nothing could be seen. This can be done today too. And to save money at the same time: nails are cheaper. But after a while, a large number of cracks appear in the plank floor. To get rid of them, the floor is dismantled, compacted, one or two boards are added to the wall - how it goes. This is where self-tapping screws have an advantage: they are easier to dismantle and without damaging the wood. And you try to get a nail with a flattened head and not break the wood. No way. Therefore, more and more often they "sit down" on self-tapping screws, although the option is ambiguous: nails are stronger, and the caps of self-tapping screws, especially hot ones, often fly off.

In a thorn or a groove?

For hidden fastening, self-tapping screws are not fastened through the boards, but into a spike or groove. It is possible and through and through, into the face, but then the hats will need to be drowned in the board, and the holes should be covered with putty. Even if the floor is painted, although this is done very rarely in baths. If you take a putty for wood of the appropriate color, and add some wood dust from your boards into it, then even under a light varnish you will hardly see anything.

If the screws are screwed into the groove, then at an angle of about 60 °. If in a thorn, then the angle is less - it can be almost perpendicular to the plane of the floor. The second option holds the board more reliably (captures ¾ of the thickness), although the “groove” method is more common.

In any case, you first need to drill a hole under the head with a larger drill and a smaller self-tapping screw. This operation, although it takes time, serves as a guarantee that the board will not burst.

Concealed mounting technology

The technology of hidden flooring is as follows: the first board is nailed tightly through and through. The second and subsequent ones are attached, beaten with wedges, or better - they are attracted by clamps so that there are no cracks anywhere. Then fasteners are screwed or hammered into the groove or spike at an angle. If the wood is dense, self-tapping screws go hard. To make the process easier, the threads are lubricated with soap (it can be slightly moistened to make it easier to smear).

With this method of fastening, no nails or screws are visible. But, if there is one drawback: only one edge of the board is attracted to the lag. When the humidity changes, shrinkage or movement of the foundation, the other can rise. It turns out the floor is uneven, and it creaks more often. Although, it's never too late to drive a few nails or screw a few screws into the face.

What screws to take

What screws to use for flooring in a bath? Preferably with a thread that does not start from the cap itself. It will be safer to hold this way. And it's better to take non-heated ones - they are stronger. For a bath, it is better - galvanized - they will not rust. The length of the screw depends on the thickness of the board: it should be 2.5 times larger. It seems that according to the parameters of self-tapping screws - everything. With nails, everything is easier: you need ordinary nails, but not screw or grooved ones - it is almost impossible to pull them out without damaging the wood.

It is better to take self-tapping screws with a thread that does not start from the head itself

There is one secret inherited from ancestors. It will allow you to use ordinary nails in the bath, and they will not rust: they need to be boiled in drying oil. Once dry, you can use it. Shingles were nailed to the roofs with such nails, and they did not rust for decades.

So: with the method of fastening and the choice of fasteners you need to decide on your own. There are different opinions, and they are all based on experience - their own or ancestors. But it has long been known: how many people, so many opinions. Add your own. But remember that in a year or two, the floor will have to be touched. So for the first time it is worth fastening to a minimum of nails or screws - as you decide. Then, already shrunken, it will be possible to fix it thoroughly.

How the floorboard is installed and how clamps are used to eliminate cracks, see the video.

A device for tightening floorboards can be made by hand according to the attached video instruction.

Not only the beauty of the room depends on the choice of flooring, but also the durability and functionality of the floor. That is why many craftsmen recommend flooring from boards. In addition, the installation of this material is so easy that you can make your own edged board floor. Such a floor covering is unpretentious in use, durable and reliable. And most importantly, depending on the choice of finishing method (painting, toning, impregnation with oil, varnish, etc.), you can give the room the desired look.

Choosing an edged board

Before making a floor from a board with your own hands, you need to choose the right wood. First of all, pay attention to the type of wood. Both the price per cube of the material and the performance characteristics of the floor depend on this. For small rooms, it is best to use elements made of coniferous wood - pine, fir, larch, cedar, spruce. This material is different:

antibacterial properties;
harmlessness (such a floor is suitable even for allergy sufferers and asthmatics);
practicality, durability;
acceptable cost (the price of a pine board with a thickness of 4 cm is $ 60 per cubic meter).

For children's and sleeping quarters, you can choose aspen or alder. Such wood is characterized by the absence of smell, as well as the preservation of its appearance: even after many years of use, the floor will look like new. In the photo of the interiors on the network, you can see how beautiful an aspen or alder board looks in a room.

Also, when choosing, you should pay attention to the following product parameters:

Dryness degree. It is better to use non-wet material, otherwise the service life of the coating will be short. Since it is impossible to check the moisture content of the wood upon purchase, we recommend buying the flooring in advance so that it can sit in the room where it will be laid and adapt to its conditions.
Product quality. There should be no visible defects on the surface.
Design. To match the pattern and colors of the elements, purchase material from the same batch.
Item size. It is better to use floorboards with a length of at least 2 m. Usually the edged board has the following dimensions: thickness 25-45 mm and width 85-130 mm. Preference should be given to thicker products for their durability. The price per cubic meter also depends on the dimensions. So, elements with a thickness of 25 mm cost $ 46 per cube, and the price of a product with a thickness of 30 mm is $ 58 per cube.
Compound. To do it yourself quickly, choose sanded and grooved floorboards.

Important: when purchasing flooring, it is worth buying 15-20% more material. This is due to the peculiarities of laying, because some of the elements in the process of work will have to be slightly shortened.

Preparatory work

Edged boards can be laid on logs and a concrete base. At the same time, it is important to carefully level the floor, therefore a two-layer construction is often used, consisting of a rough base and a finishing flooring. Therefore, when calculating the price of the floor, it is worth considering the purchase of materials for the base device.

Before making the floor with your own hands, you should prepare the material. For this, the logs and linings under them are treated with fire retardants and antiseptics to protect against burning and decay. Also, the base of the floor needs waterproofing. For this, you can use penofol or ordinary polyethylene.

Laying the floor on logs

To level the floor with large jumps in height, it is better to use logs. The optimal size of the timber for the log is 100x50 mm. More details about laying flooring from boards on logs can be found in the video suggested at the end of the article. The work is carried out in the following sequence:

First, the installation of the extreme logs is performed at the opposite walls. Further, all other elements are stacked with a certain step along the stretched cord. Insulation can be laid in the space between the lags.

It is important to know: the pitch of the timber depends on the thickness of the boards. For products with a thickness of 3-4 cm, the lag step is 800 mm. Boards less than 3 cm thick are stacked on logs installed in 50-60 cm increments. Boards thicker than 4 cm can be mounted on beams laid in 1 m increments.

All logs are leveled and attached to the concrete base using self-tapping screws and dowels or anchors.
After installing the lag, a rough flooring is made of fiberboard.
Then you can do the finishing flooring with your own hands. In this case, the size of the boards is selected so that the joint of the end of all elements falls on the central axis of the log. The first row is laid, departing from the wall 15 mm. The elements are attached to the logs with self-tapping screws.
After all the boards have been laid, the skirting boards are installed. They will close the gaps between the deck and the walls.

Laying on plywood

An example of laying plywood on logs for additional leveling

Plywood can be a good option for subfloors on a relatively flat base. It can be used to level an old wooden or concrete base. Plywood practically does not deform, it is durable and reliable. However, the use of this sub-floor is not recommended in humid locations.

Plywood can be laid on wooden battens or directly on concrete. Anchors, corners, self-tapping screws are used to fix it. The first installation method is suitable for uneven substrates. The size and pitch of the lathing timber depends on the thickness of the plywood and the unevenness of the base.

The installation process is so simple that you can understand it from the photo above:

First, a lathing from a bar is erected on the floor. It needs to be aligned horizontally. The lathing is attached to the base with screws and dowels.
Further, to protect against condensation, the wooden crate is covered with glassine.
Now you can lay the plywood. All joints of the sheets must fall on the sheathing beams. A gap of 1.5-2 mm is left between adjacent slabs to protect against deformation. Plywood is attached to the crate with self-tapping screws.
After that, you can lay the edged boards in the same way as described in the first installation method.

Laying on a concrete base

Sometimes, in order to level the concrete base in a low room, a screed is made. Plank flooring can be done directly on the screed. However, to protect the boards from contact with concrete, insulation must be made of primer mastic or polyethylene foam.

The sanded boards are laid out on the floor and numbered. Century rings on adjacent elements should look in different directions.
Laying is carried out from the wall with an indent of 15 mm. This gap is needed for floor ventilation.
The nails are hammered in at an angle with a deepening of the head.
After mounting the first element at a distance of 40-60 mm, staples are driven into the wooden subfloor, logs or battens with a gap. Then a wedge is driven in between the board and the bracket. This will allow the edges of adjacent elements to be tightly pressed.
After that, the board is fixed with nails. The staples and wedge are removed. After a couple of rows of boards, you can again use staples and a wedge to tightly connect the elements. All boards are additionally compacted with a mallet.
To make it easier to install the last plank, the tongue can be leveled with a plane. Then the board is glued and nailed down, which will subsequently hide under the baseboard.

Edged board is a 100% natural building material. Everyone knows that a board is a sawn log. There are no impurities, processing, chemical additives in it. therefore edged board floor technology deserves to be studied. Earlier, we examined the technology of concrete flooring, now, let's talk about a wooden floor.

Tools and materials for flooring from edged boards

Wooden wedges
Edged boards
Jigsaw
Nails and hammer

Step-by-step instruction

We lay the chipboard panel on the crate. Boards for the future floor need to be held in the room for "acclimatization" for several days.
We lay the first board parallel to the wall. The distance between the board and the wall should be \u003d 1 cm. You can cut a wedge of the same thickness and drive it in.
The board is attached to the beams with nails. At each intersection of the board and the beam, 2 nails. Drown the hats completely.
If you have short boards at hand, then you should lay the boards to the middle. We also drive 2 nails into each end of the board.
We apply the next 4-5 rows of boards tightly to each other, but do not hammer in with nails. Lay the sixth row at a short distance from the previous ones. Nail the planks lightly.
It's time to cut any piece of board so that you end up with 2 triangular wedges. Both wedges fit into the gap left between the sixth and fifth row. The wedges are driven with hammers towards each other. Your floorboards should be compressed by the wedges.
For long rows, the number of wedges should be increased.
Visually inspect the first rows, if they are in close contact, then you need to fix them with nails.
We take out the wedges and the sixth row of boards. Then we lay another five (as it is convenient for anyone) rows of boards and perform a similar operation with wedges and a test sixth row.
The work is almost done and the last one remains. It almost always happens that the distance between the wall and the row is less than the width of the board. Saw (jigsaw) in your hands.
It remains only to cover the flooring with varnish or paint.

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