Wood has been used in construction since ancient times. This material is valued for its affordability and thermal conductivity. A house from a bar requires proper care, then it will always be comfortable in it. Many have noticed that two or three years after construction, the house becomes noticeably colder. This is due to the fact that all the walls of the building are in constant motion.
The position of the beams changes slightly and gaps appear along the seams, even correctly installed windows begin to let drafts over time. Construction flaws can also show themselves. In fact, it is not difficult to fix all these reasons even with your own hands. If you don't want to spoil the exterior of your house, we will tell you how to insulate a log house from the inside.
Why is it cold inside a wooden house:
- Walls. Small cracks in the seams of a wooden house are the most common reason for the lack of heat in rooms.
- Windows and doors. Eternal sources of drafts and heat loss in any home.
- Ceiling. It is known from the physics course that warm air rises upward. If the upper part of the house made of timber is not insulated enough, the heat simply goes outside.
- Ground floor floor. In any house, it has a large area. Coldness from the ground can be very cold air in the house.
Let's consider in order what you can do with your own hands for each of these reasons.
First, the walls of the house need to be bored. For this, a special tool is used - caulking. If not, use a stiff spatula or wide screwdriver. Hemp, hemp, felt or jute rope are used as insulation. It is not difficult to do this with your own hands, the main thing is to follow the sequence of actions correctly.
You need to start caulking from the bottom seam around the entire perimeter of the house, only then move on to the next one.
Insulation must be driven into the slots of the timber as tightly and deeply as possible. You need to understand that after the end of the work, the ceiling height will increase by several centimeters. Therefore, if you caulk each part of the house separately, one of the walls may collapse - the timber will simply pop out of the groove. Another way is to apply acrylic or silicone sealant to the joint of the timber.
If you are not satisfied with the achieved result, experts advise to additionally insulate the walls with thermal insulation. To do this, a guide bar is vertically attached to the wall, its height should be equal to the thickness of the insulating material. The entire surface is covered with a layer of waterproofing. Insulation is placed tightly between the guides, without gaps. Any sheet material is suitable for this purpose. After that, it remains only to make decorative wall cladding.
Windows and doors - how to get rid of the cold
The two main causes of cold weather from front doors and windows are drafts and insufficient thermal insulation. Very often, the cold from the openings is confused with drafts. To determine the cause of the heat leak, you just need to make sure whether it is actually blowing from doors and windows or not. To do this, you need to hold a burning lighter at a short distance around the perimeter of the frame and sashes.
If the draft comes from the doors, you need to seal all the joints. To do this, it will be enough to stick a silicone seal with your own hands. Foam rubber can also be used, but it has a short service life. You can also glue the windows with construction tape for the winter.
If it shows through along the perimeter of the frame, it is necessary to remove the platbands and the window sill in order to get to the opening between the wall and the frame. Then the opening is pasted over with waterproofing and insulated. Any roll insulation or polyurethane foam can be used as thermal insulation. From above, the insulation must be pasted over with aluminum or reinforced tape, after which the platbands are put in place.
If it pulls cold from the door, but there is no draft, you need to check the thermal insulation of the door. To do this, experts advise simply knocking on the canvas. The structure, which is hollow from the inside, will have to be changed. A window with a single glass unit can freeze during the cold season. In this case, you will have to install new windows.
Insulation of the roof and ceiling of a wooden house
Many people do not consider the heat loss through the roof and ceiling to be significant. In fact, there are often cracks through which a log house simply heats the street. Also, the roof surface can heat up from poor thermal insulation of the ceiling. By getting rid of these losses, you can save up to 60% on heating costs.
Before you start insulating the upper part of a wooden house, you should seal up the entire seam of the upper beam of the wall and the roof structure.
If the attic in the house is uninhabited, it is very easy to insulate the ceiling with your own hands. For this, a layer of thermal insulation of about forty centimeters is laid there. You need to understand that the insulation for the ceiling should be lightweight. Typically, sawdust, foam, mineral wool and other lightweight materials are used for this purpose.
If the ceiling is the vault of the roof, the insulation becomes a little more difficult. To begin with, the entire surface of the roof from the inside must be covered with a layer of waterproofing so that moisture does not get onto the insulation. Roof insulation is done in two ways:
- The insulation sheet is laid tightly to each other. In this case, special attention must be paid to the absence of gaps between the sheets, because between them the heat will still go outside.
- The sheet insulation is overlapped from top to bottom. This is done for additional protection against moisture, it will simply flow down the sheets of thermal insulation.
After that, it remains to refine the surface with decorative sheathing. For this purpose, lining is perfect.
Solving the problem with a cold floor
Home heating will not work efficiently if the floor is cold. They cool the room and prevent the air from warming up.
It is very easy to insulate a wooden floor, for this you need to remove the floor upholstery. In order not to confuse the order in which the boards were laid, it is better to mark them in advance. This will save you a lot of time during assembly. Then the entire surface between the lags is closed with waterproofing so that the insulation does not collect moisture from the soil.
The thermal insulation material is laid on it in such a way that there are no slightest gaps along the entire floor surface. Any insulation is used that is not afraid of moisture. On top, you need to lay another layer of waterproofing, because when cleaning the premises, water can get there and accumulate inside. After that, the floor boards will need to be laid in the reverse order.
The cement floor is insulated in two ways. If the height of the premises allows, logs from a wooden bar are laid on the floor. Insulation is laid between them, which is closed from above with waterproofing. Then the floor is covered with a board.
If the ceiling height does not allow raising the floor level, you need to remove the cement screed and remove the floor backfill by about half a meter. After that, the pit is waterproofed and the insulation is filled in. Usually expanded clay is used for this. On top of it, a layer of foam or other dense material is laid. A new screed is made on top.
To favorites!
The question "How to properly insulate?" - the undisputed weekly leader of the "" section. The log cabins and, built several decades ago, have already aged and begin to let the cold in during the winter months.
Errors when insulating a wooden house
therefore it is very important to exclude possible oversights, which regularly occur with unqualified thermal insulation of wooden modern materials. Let's take a look at the most common ones.
Mistake # 1. Thermal insulation of a log house without wood inspection
As a rule, already "old" log cabins are insulated. On the one hand, it is technologically convenient: the log house has finally settled down and the dimensions of the structure remain unchanged. However, the past years could not but leave traces on biologically living material -.
Therefore, before the planned insulation, which implies that there will be no access to the logs for many years, it is necessary carefully examine all crowns and reject defective fragments... If a wood-eating one is wound up in the logs, I will make a cautious assumption that it is no longer advisable to insulate the house. A cardinal medicine for such a case, except for a weekly forty-degree frost, has not yet been invented. Read more about this problem in the articles: Good wood should soak with fire-fighting and antiseptic composition and dry thoroughly... It is a mistake to carry out insulation on raw wood.
Mistake # 2. Lack of attention to caulking
Traditional caulking is performed, strictly speaking, not to insulate the log house, but to prevent it from blowing, which ultimately affects the preservation of heat in the house.
Deciding to insulate log facades, pay attention to the condition of caulking on all crowns... This operation should not be dismissed. Perhaps it is thanks to 2-3 defects of this natural insulator that your house is cold in winter.
In early 2016, a reader contacted the editorial office with a request to help with modern insulation. Word by word, it turned out that the cunning birds had long ago pulled the caulk fibers from its log house onto their nests.
It seems that after the clarification of this fact, the craving for total warming of our dear reader has somewhat weakened.
Without plunging into the basics of building heat engineering and without delving into the meaning of the obscure phrase "" (which is the basis for choosing a location), take the craft postulate on faith: insulation of structures is carried out from the outside. Such an installation improves the operation of both the wall bearing material (tree crowns) and the insulation itself. Otherwise, both the insulation and the wood of the logs will get wet from the humid vapors that are inevitably found in the atmosphere of human habitation. Of course, we do not strive for this at all. You can read more about the features of insulation of the outer walls of a wooden house in the section of the article of the same name.
Mistake # 4. Rough choice of thermal insulation material
Construction markets are literally and figuratively overwhelmed with a variety of thermal insulators.
However, if we introduce a strict systematization into this abundance, it turns out that everything dominates 3 types of materials suitable for wooden log cabins... These are heaters:
- from,
- glass wool,
- - cellular and extruded.
I do not mind using this material, but I vote with both hands for its thoughtful use. There, for example, where the fire will never reach - in the foundation, in the plinth, in the blind area. Here he is truly worthless.
Choosing between glass wool and mineral wool is more difficult. Both are perfect for insulating a log house. You will learn about which thermal insulation materials are preferable from a safety point of view from the article.
Mistake # 5. Careless handling and storage of material
Thermal insulation materials must be dry... Only in this case they "keep" warm. And if the material gets wet, then its heat-insulating ability drops dramatically.
Remember the common "kitchen" situation: what kind of potholder do you grab the metal handle of a hot frying pan - dry cloth or wet / wet? I am sure that after a moment's thought, you will choose the dry option. So the insulation must always be dry. In factories, during production, it is packaged in packaging (often in shrink-wrap) film and is sufficiently well protected from climatic moisture. But it is worth removing the film ... Therefore:
- Unpack the insulation one day before use. and always under a canopy, or even better - in an insulated house.
- After fixing the insulation on the wall go straight to its facing by plastering method or by protective panels (etc.).
- Do not leave the heaters open for a long time, risking soaking them "to the skin" by the summer slanting rains.
Mistake # 6. Choosing flexible mats instead of rigid slabs
On the construction market, you can find 2 options for thermal insulation materials - flexible mats and rigid plates. At first glance, these are exactly the same materials. So what to choose for facade insulation?
If you decide to opt for mats, you will be mistaken, since over the years, the insulation located in an upright position begins to sag here and there, forming cracks into which cold air rushes - the very ones that disavow all the consumer beauty of modern heaters.
Rigid slabs keep their dimensions unchanged throughout their entire service life. It is quite possible to walk on the slabs laid on the roof structure without losing the quality of thermal insulation.
Why, then, are flexible mats made? - They are irreplaceable when insulating horizontal surfaces - underground space and interfloor ceilings. There, in principle, they cannot sag and form gaps for the consumption of heat.
Mistake # 7. Incorrect determination of the thickness of the thermal insulation layer
To the question: "How thick should the thermal insulation layer be?" you will find a reasoned answer in a recently published article.
Here one can only confirm that with thermal insulation of a log house, two layers of material 50 mm thick will be enoughlaid one on top of the other. I'll make a reservation that two layers are enough for the climatic conditions of central Russia. In the North, three layers of insulation will have to be laid on a wooden wall, and in the southern regions it will be possible to limit oneself to one.
In conclusion, I would like to cite a photograph of a truly unique structure.
What is its originality? The house was built at the end of the 19th century. The house is a log house, but the logs, united by horizontal dowels, are installed vertically. It was insulated in the spring of 2016 with mineral wool insulation (100 mm) and lined with chipboard panels. And the entrance group is made of monolithic reinforced concrete. Truly, on a tiny spot of development, technologies from three different centuries have merged.
A few decades ago, wall insulation from the inside of a wooden house was not required: to keep warm in the room, it was enough to increase the thickness of the walls. But the use of more material to build a thick wall leads to an increase in financial costs, so the owners think about how it is correct and whether it is possible to insulate the house from the inside at all. Yes you can, the modern construction market offers many different thermal insulation materials for the internal insulation of wooden houses.
What you need to know about wall insulation
Wood is a material with high thermal insulation properties, but when the thickness of the walls decreases, it becomes necessary for insulation. It is not possible to carry out external insulation, as this will deteriorate the appearance of the wooden structure. Additional heat loss occurs due to poor-quality joining of logs, under the influence of natural shrinkage of the house. Therefore, the insulation of a wooden house from the inside is an urgent problem that modern thermal insulation materials help to solve.
Before you start choosing a heater and carrying out thermal insulation work, you need to find out two details:
House insulation works are best planned for spring or summer. A newly built house is not insulated - you need to wait a year for the building to shrink. Otherwise, the work will be useless: after shrinkage, cracks and gaps between the logs will reappear, additional work will have to be carried out.
The choice of insulation
The quality of the insulation determines not only the warmth in the house, but also the health of the residents... The following requirements are imposed on the materials used to insulate the walls of a wooden house:
- Low thermal conductivity.
- Fire safety.
- Mechanical strength.
- Environmental cleanliness, safety for human health.
A lot of modern materials have been created with excellent thermal insulation properties. The following types of insulation are used:
The correct organization of work and a thoughtful approach are the lion's share of success in this difficult task. The following will describe the main steps in warming a room. Preparatory stage
Before starting thermal insulation work need to prepare the walls... The first operation is checking and sealing joints. To do this, use synthetic sealants, jute fiber, tow. Preparing walls for the application of polyurethane foam includes cleaning the surface from dirt, old paint, greasy stains. After filling the joints, proceed to the next stage - processing of wood with fire-retardant compositions.
Treatment with compounds that prevent fire and mold infestation is very important, because wood after thermal insulation will be hidden from free access for many years; the condition and service life of a wooden building depends on the quality of processing. Fire retardant compounds are used to treat not only wooden walls, but also enclosing structures, even if they are made of other materials.
Ventilation device
When carrying out thermal insulation work you need to remember about ventilation: without it, it is impossible to achieve the correct indoor climate. Some heaters have low air permeability, which negatively affects indoor air quality. In order for the air to circulate correctly, ventilation gaps are arranged - a small gap is left between the wall and the thermal insulation material. In this gap, free air circulation occurs, due to which the normal humidity of the insulation and walls is maintained.
Materials such as basalt wool, non-pressed polystyrene, glass wool require an additional vapor barrier. To do this, use a vapor barrier film, which is attached to the ventilation crate.
All thermal insulation materials require erection of enclosing structures - without them, it is impossible to fix the insulation on the wall. For this, wooden bars are used, which are installed at a distance from each other equal to the width of the insulation. In order for the material to adhere more tightly to the fence, the distance between the bars is made less than the required size by 1 cm.After laying the insulation between the fence bars, it is additionally secured with cords or dowels.
After installation on the wall, insulation with high porosity requires additional waterproofing. For this, waterproofing films with vapor-permeable membranes are used, due to which the moisture content of the insulation will always be equal to the air humidity in the room. Plasterboard, wooden lining, plywood are used as a finishing coating for thermal insulation.
The technology of insulating a wooden house from the inside is not complicated, does not require professional skills from the owners. You can insulate the walls yourself, you just need study the technology of work and purchase high-quality materials.
Insulation of walls in a wooden house from the inside is of course necessary. After all, penetrating moisture contributes to the destruction of wood and not only does the structure become unusable, but as a result of this, the room will be damp.
Today we will consider how to insulate the walls in a wooden house from the inside. Also, in the video in this article and in the photo, you can see the whole process of doing the work visually.
Preparation for the main types of work
Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the inside is done according to certain rules and in compliance with the required sequence. The quality of the work performed will depend on this.
Before starting work, it is necessary to take measurements and calculate the material. And also, it is necessary to make calculations for the further selection of an insulating material, taking into account, among other things, its properties (see Material for insulating walls inside: characteristics). Do not forget that during such work, membranes are used (insulating and waterproofing steam).
When calculating, it is established:
- Dew point output... This is one of the most important points in this type of work. Everything is explained very simply - how much, in the end, it will be humid in the room, directly depends on this, even in cases of high-quality material, and well-done work. The location of the membranes, and their properties (they may differ from different manufacturers), and of course the properties of the insulation (density, resistance to wetting) are taken into account.
- Calculation of the total area of \u200b\u200bthe room, considering that it will decrease... It may not be a comparison (an increase in slopes, and in the presence of a stove, the safe distance between the wall and the stove will change, which is unacceptable, for fire safety).
Important: The need for work to establish the dew point is not discussed. It is an inseparable part that ultimately provides the meaning of all work. It must be understood that the humidity of the room depends on the location of the dew point, and the humidity is rotting, smell, in the end - premature decay.
Rules for performing insulation work
Insulation of the walls from the inside with your own hands of a wooden house is done in the presence of high-quality materials. Preference should be given to proven brands; on Chinese material you can save a little, but you will significantly lose in performance.
What is needed to conduct work
Warming of wooden walls from the inside is done with insulation, there are quite a few of them. But you need to proceed from the structure itself and what you want to get in the end.
By definition, the insulation must meet the requirements:
- Have low thermal conductivity;
- Meet the fire safety requirements;
- Comply with environmental and chemical safety standards.
Attention: When choosing a heater, the density and heat transmission qualities are determined, taking into account the place of its application, weather and temperature characteristics, as well as the state of the building itself.
- The material used must not sustain combustion, emit hazardous compounds into the air, contain hazardous chemical elements. For interior work, the material is selected with great care, environmentally friendly and safe. This is important because - in a confined space, with constant contact, even a seemingly insignificant deviation from the norm, can turn out to be dangerous, both for people and for pets.
Types and types of insulation materials
When deciding which method to use, you first need to decide which material will be used. This is interconnected, since the method and method directly depends on the type of material.
Of the possible methods used indoors - use:
| Mineral wool | It comes in slabs and rolls, of various densities. In fact, there is almost no difference in application. Any of these materials, assumes - a closed type of application, that is, after laying, it must be closed (finishing material in the form of - plates, sheets, boards and slats). Such insulation does not burn, is non-toxic, and has low thermal conductivity. But he is afraid of moisture, which means it is necessary to use insulating membranes (insulating films). |
| Foam plates (expanded polystyrene) | It is not recommended to use it inside the living space due to the possible toxic emission (hydrogen cyanide, styrenes, etc.). It is possible to use extruded polystyrene foam, but such a material is also designed for laying with subsequent closing. |
| Glass wool | A relatively inexpensive material, slightly higher thermal conductivity than mineral wool (a thicker layer will be needed). There is a special option for interior work, and with the obligatory use of films for covering. During work, it is also necessary to observe safety measures (protect the respiratory tract from small particles, use protective equipment). After laying, it must be closed. |
| Isopleth | This material is environmentally friendly, it consists of flax fibers and wood shavings. It is a pressed plate with a thickness of 12-25 mm. since this is a rather rigid material, there is no need for a solid fence (crate). Environmentally friendly, suitable for indoor use. The disadvantage is higher thermal conductivity, and the cost, at the same time, is higher than that of alternative materials. |
| Polyurethane foam | It is used using special equipment, it itself does not burn, but at high temperatures, toxic substances are released.
|
Now let's figure out how to insulate wooden walls from the inside from a practical point of view.
Sealing gaps, preparing the surface for insulation
From the moment the building was built, during its operation, the wood dries up, the house "shrinks", the constant movement of materials. As a result, cracks and cracks are formed, which must be repaired to stop heat loss.
- Joints, between logs (or beams) - caulk. This is done with an accessible material, or with the same thing that was done before (tow, jute, sealant). As a result, the loss of heat must be stopped.
Insulation of walls from the inside in wooden houses makes them more comfortable and economical. In addition, the good performance of the walls for heating technology allows you to save on heating. The question should be taken seriously, since the result will completely depend on the chosen material and adherence to technology.
Thermal insulation of the house from the inside avoids the need for external finishing. With this approach, it is possible to preserve the attractive appearance of a building made of a bar or rounded log. But the technology has a number of drawbacks worth preparing for:
- the interior rooms, but not the walls, are protected from the harmful effects of cold;
- the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe building is reduced;
- there are certain restrictions on the materials used.
What insulation to choose
What is the best way to insulate a house? It is worth starting from the material of the walls. The tree has gained well-deserved popularity due to the fact that it is able to "breathe". Wood allows air to pass through well, while providing excellent ventilation in the premises.
To preserve the useful property to the fullest when working from the inside with your own hands, you need to use materials that are similar in breathability to wood. To insulate the house, it is better to abandon such heat insulators as:
- styrofoam;
- extruded polystyrene foam (or simply "Penoplex");
- penoizol.
They are highly airtight, so they can create a greenhouse effect in a building. This will require the device of expensive forced ventilation or the installation of air conditioners.
The best material for thermal insulation is mineral wool.
Its advantages include:
- high efficiency;
- the ability to pass air without interfering with natural ventilation;
- safety for human health and the environment;
- incombustibility;
- ease of installation;
- availability;
- low cost.
But when using cotton wool, it is worth remembering its shortcomings. The material absorbs moisture well, while ceasing to perform its main function. To avoid getting wet, you should also purchase a vapor barrier and windproofing.
Layer scheme for insulation with mineral wool
There are several varieties of mineral wool. The best option would be basalt (stone) insulation in slabs. You can also choose glass wool, which comes in the form of rolled mats. The second option can cause installation difficulties. The material is severely pricked, and particles entering the lungs or on the skin cause itching. To avoid unpleasant consequences, all work with glass wool is performed in special clothing and masks.
The most undesirable, but inexpensive option will be slag wool. But, when insulating your house, it is better not to save. Cotton wool is made from industrial waste. Manufacturers are responsible for safety, but it is not always possible to check which slags are used to make the insulation. You can easily come across low-quality material or a fake, with which the insulation of a wooden house from the inside will be dangerous to health and life.
Preparatory stage
Before insulating a wooden house from the inside, you will need to prepare the walls. This is especially true if you need to insulate an old wooden house. In this case, the material that was used for caulking has time to cake. The main task at this stage will be to eliminate cracks - sources of drafts, cold and moisture.
Work begins with cleaning the base. You will need to remove dust and dirt that have accumulated on the walls. Before insulating an old house, it is worth checking the strength of the wood. It should not be damaged by various pests. Otherwise, it is better to reinforce the walls.
To prevent problems with insects and microorganisms in the future, the surface is treated with antiseptic compounds. You can also perform treatment with fire retardants, they increase the resistance of the material to fire.
Antiseptic treatment will protect wood from decay
Wood shrinks over time. Because of this, cracks may appear in the walls. Before starting work on insulation, it is worthwhile to caulk the old walls. Currently, jute is most often used for these purposes. For large crevices, it is wise to purchase a tape tow. The material is hammered between logs or a bar using a chisel.
Caulking will protect the walls from blowing and will become an additional heat insulator
It is necessary to carry out the work until the material ceases to creep into the space and begins to hang out. High-quality caulk is a guarantee of a warm home.
Wind-waterproofing of walls
Mineral wool is afraid of moisture. Before insulating the walls in a wooden house, you should take care of the protection of the insulation. On the outside of the mineral wool, a layer of wind-waterproofing is fixed. It prevents weathering and penetration of atmospheric moisture. There are several types of suitable materials, but a vapor diffusion membrane is the best option.
Description and characteristics of the windproof membrane
This modern material reliably protects against water, but does not impede the movement of air and steam. This allows the walls to breathe and also removes moisture from the insulation.
The waterproofing is attached to the walls with a construction stapler. The joints of the canvases are made with an overlap of at least 10 cm and are glued with tape or special tape.
Insulation installation
Internal wall insulation is carried out along the frame. It can be made of wood from a metal profile. The easiest way to insulate a building made of wood is to use wood for the frame as well. It is important to correctly select the geometric dimensions of the frame:
- The step of the racks is selected taking into account the width of the insulation. It should be about 2 cm smaller than the width of the mats or slabs. This is necessary for a snug fit of the material. For mineral wool, such a step of the racks is most often used so that a distance of 58 cm remains in the light between them.
- The overhang of the frame must take into account the thickness of the insulation and the required ventilation gap. It is needed to remove condensation from the surface and allows you to keep the material dry. The thickness of the ventilation gap is usually taken equal to 3-5 cm.
Installation of slabs in the walls should be carried out with an interference fit - then it will not begin to slip over time
Mineral wool is laid between the racks of the crate. With the correct choice of the step of the latter, the heat insulator will be held by friction. For additional fastening, you can use special plastic dowels, usually they are sold with insulation.
Vapor barrier
How to properly insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside? It is important not only to choose the right insulation, but also to protect it from all types of moisture. Indoors are characterized by a fairly high humidity, water in the form of steam can easily reach the mineral wool and reduce its effectiveness.
Vapor barrier is a mandatory layer when using mineral wool
Internal wall insulation implies the mandatory presence of a vapor barrier layer. It is mounted on top of the insulation. A good option for protection is vapor barrier membranes.
Characteristics of a vapor barrier membrane
They are more expensive than films, but they do not impede the movement of air through the walls. Membranes will become a more modern and efficient option.
Thermal insulation of a wooden wall from the inside with their help is carried out according to the manufacturer's instructions. The fastening method may differ for different types.
Finishing
Insulation of the walls of a wooden house is completed with a fine finish. For these purposes, you can apply a variety of options. But when choosing a material, it is worth remembering about ventilation. The finishing layer must not impede the movement of air, otherwise all the previous choice of materials is useless.
Lining for interior cladding - a simple, inexpensive and environmentally friendly option
Insulation thickness
Insulation of walls in wooden houses from the inside should begin with calculating the thickness of the heat insulator. Only a professional can perform detailed calculations. For self-construction, you can use special programs. For example, the Teremok program. It is quite simple and freely available. There is both an online version and a PC application.
On average, mineral wool with a thickness of 80-100 mm is used for walls. But it all depends on the climatic region.
Before insulating your own wooden house from the inside, you should carefully study the information on the topic.
And do not forget that from the point of view of heating engineering, it is more correct to insulate with mineral wool outside.
Competent performance of work is the key to durability and comfort.
Construction science recommends to do external insulation of buildings, since in this case the dew point is located outside the room in the insulation or in the outer layer of the walls. With such insulation, moisture will not condense on the walls in rooms.
But still there are cases when insulation of a wooden house from the inside - is the only correct solution. For example, if the owner of the house wants to preserve the beautiful appearance characteristic of houses made of rounded logs, or the laws prescribe to preserve the historical appearance of the building.
Modern building science allows you to make internal insulation of wooden houses, but for this you should use the right materials and follow the technology.
Preparatory work
All work on the construction and arrangement of residential buildings must be preceded by
engineering calculations ... This also applies to the internal insulation of a wooden house.
The heat engineering calculation should show how effective the insulation will be and, in general, is there a possibility of internal insulation? The insulation will always fulfill its function, but the position of the dew point is of decisive importance.
The dew point should never be on the interior walls. and even more so in insulation and calculations should show this. If the dew point is inside, then the room will be warm, but in the cold season it is constantly damp. And from the damp porous insulation gets wet, the walls of houses rot, mold and various unwanted animals are massively divorced.
Only if the dew point is not inside the room, even in the coldest period, can you confidently produce internal insulation. True, for this you will have to sacrifice part of the internal volume of the house, but without this - in no way!
Materials used for internal insulation
Materials used in the internal insulation of the house, must meet certain requirements:
- First, they must have low thermal conductivity in order to fulfill their main function - insulation.
- Secondly, these materials must meet the fire safety requirements for the premises.
- Third, the material, alone or in combination with the mounting structure, must provide the required mechanical strength.
- And, finally, all materials used indoors must be environmentally friendly and not emit any chemicals into the ambient air that are bad for the health of living beings.
Warming methods
Ways of insulating a wooden house directly depend on the materials used for this. Several types of them are used in modern construction:
- Mineral basalt wool slabs - are used most often. This material does not burn, it is environmentally friendly, its use provides excellent heat and sound insulation. Low mechanical strength requires the construction of the enclosing structure, and high hygroscopicity requires covering the mineral wool with special vapor barrier films.
- Expanded polystyrene plates (polystyrene), also found application in internal insulation. It is not recommended to use them, as they can release substances containing styrene into the air. When burning, pressless polystyrene foam releases deadly substances: hydrogen cyanide and toluene diisocyanate. Therefore, you can use only extruded polystyrene foam, flammability class - G1. Thermal insulation with expanded polystyrene also requires a building envelope.
- Glass wool - a widely used material for insulation. It has a lower price than basalt wool, but also has a higher thermal conductivity. To insulate the interior with glass wool, only a material specially designed for this purpose should be used, which must additionally be covered with films. Small particles of glass wool are very harmful to health, therefore, installation is carried out only in protective equipment for the skin and respiratory organs. Requires enclosing structures.
- Izoplat - modern insulation, which consists of a layer of pressed flax fiber and fiberboard with a thickness of 12 to 25 mm. High mechanical strength makes it possible not to make powerful enclosing structures, and the environmental friendliness of this material allows it to be used indoors. Izoplat's thermal conductivity indicators are worse, and the price is much higher than that of other heaters.
- Insulation with polyurethane foamsprayed onto the surface is a modern excellent method that requires special equipment. Fencing structures are needed for such insulation.
In this video you can watch how a wooden house is insulated from the inside with polyurethane foam.
Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the inside
Sealing joints
A wooden house, even an impeccably built one, will settle for quite some time. In addition to precipitation, when the heating is turned on, the wood is intensively drying out in the house, which affects the geometric dimensions of the log or laminated veneer lumber. Initially, even well-laid logs or beams can form enlarged gaps at their joints, through which heat will be mercilessly carried out into the atmosphere.
Therefore, the first operation to insulate a house is to seal the joints.
This can be done in various materials: tow, jute, synthetic sealants or combinations of different sealants. The main thing at this stage is to stop the leakage of heated air through the joints.
Fire-retardant wood protection
The inner part of the walls when insulated will be hidden by a layer of insulation, and for a fairly long time. That is why the tree must be treated with a good fire-retardant composition, which for a long time excludes the development of living creatures and makes it difficult for fire... You should not save on this, you need to choose only good formulations that are guaranteed to provide the necessary protection.
When processing walls with fire-retardant compositions, it must be taken into account that all enclosing structures, if they are wooden, must also be processed, since they will also be hidden in the insulation structure.
Thermal insulation and ventilation
Why didn't they think much about the ventilation of houses before? Yes, because ventilation was carried out in a natural way - through leaks in wall and window structures.
Modern building materials and technologies exclude any leaks and gaps through which air can pass, but this does not mean that air should not circulate in the room. In modern houses, a ventilation system is designed, which should supply fresh air to the room and remove waste air.
Good internal thermal insulation must always be accompanied by ventilation. Only then will the microclimate in the room be normal. But ventilation is also required by the thermal insulation itself, which has a soft and porous structure, for example, mineral wool. Therefore, in the gap between the wall and the thermal insulation layer, there must be an air gap through which air must circulate freely, removing excess moisture, comparing the air humidity in the entire room.
Such gaps are very easy to implement in practice. A wooden strip of about 2.5 cm thick is attached to the walls with a certain gap, and a vapor barrier membrane is already attached to it. It turns out that there is an air gap between the wall and the insulation, which prevents the increased humidity of the inner walls and insulation.
If the walls of the house are built from cylindrical logs, then the ventilation gaps are obtained in a natural way, and if from glued beams, then the device of the ventilation gap is highly desirable.
Vapor barrier
If used as a heater basalt wool, glass wool, non-pressed polystyrene foam, then vapor barrier must be done. For this, a vapor barrier film is attached to the ventilation crate using a construction stapler. The foil must be stretched enough so that there is a ventilation gap between it and the wall. the joining of two vapor barrier panels is done with an overlap of at least 10 cm using adhesive tape and a stapler.
If the inner space of the house will be insulated with extruded polystyrene foam, then a vapor barrier is not needed. This material already has the necessary waterproofing qualities and will be a reliable barrier to moisture.
Installation of the enclosing structure
With all methods of insulating the internal walls of a wooden house, except for Isoplat plates, the construction of a building envelope is required. Most often it is made from a wooden square bar in cross-section with a size of 50 mm. The installation step of the bar is determined by the width of the insulation. If mineral wool insulation is used, then the distance between adjacent bars should be 10 mm less than the width of the insulation - for a snug fit. If extruded polystyrene foam is used, then the distance should be exactly the width of the insulation boards.
Before installation it is necessary to treat all the bars with a fire retardant compound. Installation is carried out with screws of the required length directly to the wooden walls. If a crate was used for the ventilation gap, then the bars are attached to the previously mounted slats. In this case, it is better to wrap the screws in the holes pre-drilled with a thin drill. This will prevent possible cracking of the wood.
Sometimes plasterboard profiles are used as the enclosing structure, which are attached to the walls with straight suspensions. This should only be done when drywall will be used as a finishing, and in all other cases it is better to use a wooden block. The thermal conductivity of wood is much lower than that of metal.
When insulating the ceiling, the enclosing structure is made similar to the wall one. When insulating the floor, the wooden logs themselves, on which the floor covering will be attached, act as a building envelope.
Insulation installation
Insulation is placed in the space between the enclosing bars. If a sheet insulation, then installation on the walls is carried out from bottom to top, and roll, on the contrary, from top to bottom.
Mineral wool slabs are laid flat, which makes it possible for them to hold on securely. However, it is still necessary to additionally strengthen the foam or mineral wool using special dowels with a wide head, one dowel per slab.
Roll insulation fixed from above with one dowel, rolled down and fixed with dowels at intervals of 1 meter. First, whole slabs or rolls are laid, and the remaining space, where trimming is required, is filled with insulation last.
Ceiling insulation, in the case of a sloped roof, rolls up from the bottom and can be fixed with dowels or with a cord. To do this, small carnations are stuffed onto neighboring bars with an interval of 15 cm, and then, after laying the insulation between the beams, a cord is pulled in a zigzag manner, which will reliably hold the mineral wool.
If extruded polystyrene foam is used for insulation, then all possible gaps at the joints can be filled with polyurethane foam. Before applying the foam, the surfaces are moistened, and after it dries, all excess is trimmed with a knife.
Final waterproofing
After installing the insulation, if the insulation was made with porous materials capable of absorbing water, then it is necessary to cover the insulation with a layer of waterproofing, but with a special one - vapor-permeable membrane, which is, on the one hand, a reliable barrier to water, and on the other hand, the membrane freely releases water vapor from the insulation. Even if water has condensed in the insulation, it will come out in the form of steam until the humidity of the insulation becomes equal to the humidity in the room.
The vapor-permeable film has two sides: one smooth and the other rough, through which water vapor escapes. With a rough side, such a film is laid to the insulation and fixed with a stapler to the enclosing structure. Joints with an overlap of 10 cm are glued with tape and fixed with a stapler. For waterproof insulation, a vapor-permeable membrane is not needed.
The final stage of insulation there will be an installation of the topcoat, which can be wooden lining, drywall, plywood, OSB boards and others.
findings
- Insulation of walls inside a wooden house is extremely rare and very often a necessary measure.
- Before installing the internal thermal insulation, it is necessary to carry out thermal calculations showing the position of the dew point in the cold season. Precise dew should not be on the inner walls and in the insulation.
- As a heater, you should choose only environmentally friendly from well-known manufacturers.
- Porous insulation must be covered with waterproofing films from the side of the wall and a vapor-permeable membrane from the side of the room.
If you are going to independently insulate a wooden house from the inside, I recommend that you read this article. We will consider in detail all the main nuances and subtleties of this procedure, which you are unlikely to be told about on other resources.
Thermal insulation of a wooden house from the inside
A few words about the choice of insulation
First of all, home craftsmen are interested in how to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside, as well as the floor and ceiling. The choice of insulation for a wooden house requires a special approach, because one of the main advantages of such housing is vapor permeability and environmental friendliness. Accordingly, it is desirable to preserve these qualities.
Wood is known to be a combustible material. Therefore, it is desirable that the insulation is fireproof.
Given these points, you can use the following materials for home insulation:
- mineral wool;
- extruded polystyrene foam;
- ecowool.
Mineral wool
Minvata
Mineral wool is the most common insulation material.
It is excellent for thermal insulation of wooden housing due to its following properties:
- good thermal insulation qualities - 0.032 - 0.048 W / mK;
- environmental friendliness;
- good vapor permeability;
- fire safety - mineral wool not only does not burn, but also resists the spread of fire;
- sold in the form of mats and rolls, which makes it convenient to work with mineral wool.
It should be noted that only basalt wool is environmentally friendly. In addition, it is the most heat-resistant. Therefore, use it to insulate a wooden house.
Basalt wool Technicol
True, the price of basalt wool is slightly higher than stone wool and glass wool:
| Brand | Cost for 1m3 |
| Isoroc Izoruf-B | 3990 |
| TECHNOFAS L | 3500 |
| Ecover Light | 1950 |
| TECHNOFLOR | 4800 |
Another disadvantage of basalt wool is that it irritates the skin, although to a lesser extent than, for example, glass wool. But, in any case, when working with it, it is advisable to protect the eyes and respiratory organs.
In general, in my opinion, basalt wool is the most optimal insulation for wooden walls.
Extruded polystyrene foam
Penoplex
Extruded polystyrene foam is a type of regular foam.
Thanks to a special manufacturing technology, it has better characteristics than expanded polystyrene:
- high strength - 0.2-0.5 MPa versus 0.07 MPa for foam;
- thermal conductivity is lower than that of mineral wool - 0.028-0.034 W / mK;
- in the manufacturing process, manufacturers add fire retardants to the extruded polystyrene foam, due to which the material corresponds to the flammability class G1 (slightly flammable material). True, this only applies to insulation from well-known manufacturers;
- resistant to moisture, therefore does not require waterproofing and vapor barrier during installation;
- does not irritate the skin.
Penoplex differs from foam in a more homogeneous structure
At the same time, penoplex also has some disadvantages:
- vapor permeability is very low, so it is better not to use penoplex to insulate the walls of the house. At the same time, it will be a good solution for floor insulation, as it is not afraid of moisture;
- high cost - penoplex is by far one of the most expensive thermal insulation materials.
Below is the cost for some common brands of extruded polystyrene foam:
Ecowool is a modern eco-friendly material
Ecowool
Ecowool is a relatively new thermal insulation material that has recently become more and more popular.
Its advantages include the following points:
- environmental friendliness - the material is made on the basis of wood fibers;
- vapor permeability;
- thanks to the special additives that are included in the ecowool, the insulation is fireproof, as well as resistant to biological influences;
- has a low thermal conductivity of 0.031-0.040 W / m * K;
- low cost - from 1200 rubles. per cubic meter
Ecowool can be used to insulate horizontal surfaces
I must say that special equipment is required to insulate walls with ecowool. Therefore, when working on your own, you can only perform floor or ceiling insulation with this material.
Here, and all the most common heaters that are used to insulate wooden houses. True, there are also materials that are applied in the form of foam, for example, polyurethane foam. However, they will not be able to insulate them on their own, so we will not consider them.
Insulation technology
The process of insulating a wooden house includes three main stages:
The main stages of thermal insulation of a wooden house from the inside
Floor insulation
To insulate the floor yourself, you will need the following materials:
- one of the heaters I mentioned above;
- vapor barrier;
- slats and boards - will be needed if there is no rough floor between the logs;
- antiseptic impregnation for wood.
Wooden floor scheme
The instruction for floor insulation looks like this:
- if the floor has already been in use, you need to dismantle the wooden flooring;
- then you need to make a rough floor, if, of course, it is absent. To do this, fix the cranial bars on the bottom of the rafters and lay the boards on them on top;
- further treat all wooden floor elements with an antiseptic to protect them from biological effects;
Laying vapor barrier on logs
- then the vapor barrier is laid on top of the rafters and sub-floor. The strips of the membrane should overlap each other by 10 centimeters. Be sure to glue the joints with tape.
As I said above, in the case of floor insulation with extruded polystyrene foam, the vapor barrier can not be used;
Insulation laying
- then you need to install thermal insulation. If mineral plates or penoplex are used for these purposes, place the insulation close to the logs. In addition, make sure that no gaps form between the insulation plates;
It is advisable to leave a small gap between the insulation and the upper layer of the vapor barrier
- then you need to lay another layer of the vapor barrier;
- at the end of the work, it is necessary to lay the boards, fixing them on the logs with nails or self-tapping screws.
I must say that the thermal insulation of the attic floor is performed in the same way, with the only difference that the insulation is placed between the floor beams.
Thermal insulation of walls
The next stage is wall insulation from the inside of a wooden house. I must say right away that you need to resort to this procedure only if it is really necessary.
Wall insulation scheme from the inside
It is much more expedient to insulate the house from the outside.
The fact is that internal insulation contains a number of disadvantages:
- the insulation, although not significantly, still takes away useful space in the room. For large houses, this, of course, is not critical, but in small houses, for example, garden ones, the decrease in space can be very noticeable;
- after the walls are insulated from the inside, they completely cease to be heated;
- moisture forms between the insulation and the wall, which leads to dampness of the surface and, accordingly, a decrease in the durability of the structure.
If insulation from the inside cannot be avoided, it is necessary to strictly adhere to a certain technology, which will minimize all the negative consequences of this procedure.
Antiseptic impregnation
So, for wall insulation it is necessary to prepare the following materials:
- antiseptic impregnation for wood;
- mezhventsovy insulation;
- wooden slats;
- vapor barrier;
- thermal insulation material;
- finishing material - lining or, for example, drywall.
The process of wall insulation can be divided into four main stages:
Stages of wall insulation from the inside
To prepare the walls for insulation with your own hands, you need to follow these steps:
- the surfaces of the walls must be treated with impregnation in order to prevent wood rotting, to protect it from moisture and other negative factors;
Warming the crowns of the house
- if the house is made of beams or logs, it is imperative to insulate the gaps between the joints by filling them with tow, jute insulation, or another suitable material.
Now we need to equip the ventilation space between the wall and the insulation so that the walls do not get damp.
It is done as follows:
- fix the slats on the walls in a horizontal position. Their thickness should be at least 1.5-2 cm.
The layout of the planks on the wall
Install them at a distance of 0.5 m vertically, and 2-3 cm horizontally. At the same time, try to arrange them so that they form a flat horizontal plane. Minor deviations are allowed, since the plane of the frame can be corrected at the stage of installing the racks;
The vapor barrier membrane must be taut
- then a vapor barrier membrane must be attached to the slats. It must be tight enough to create a ventilation gap. Glue the membrane joints with tape;
- for the ventilation gap to work, it is imperative to drill holes in the wall from the bottom near the base, and from above under the visor.
Now we start assembling the frame:
- the bars that will serve as racks must be cut to the height of the room;
Racks can be fixed to the wall with hangers
- the prepared bars must be fixed on the slats. If their thickness is equal to the thickness of the insulation, the racks can be placed close to the slats using metal corners and self-tapping screws. If the beams are thinner, they should be fixed on suspensions, while the thickness of the frame should be equal to the thickness of the insulation.
Make the distance between the racks so that the insulation fits snugly against them. For example, if mineral mats are used for insulation, the step of the posts can be made two centimeters less than the width of the mats.
An example of a correctly executed frame
To make the wall even, first, install vertical posts (always level) along the edges of the wall, i.e. near the corners, then pull the threads between them. This will allow you to align the intermediate posts in the same plane as the outer rails;
Mineral mats must be laid close to each other
- now we are laying the insulation in the frame. In order for the insulation of walls in a wooden house from the inside to be effective, try not to create gaps between the plates. Also, position the slabs against the ceiling and walls.
If the gaps are still formed, they must be filled with scraps of mineral wool;
Installation of the second layer of vapor barrier
- then a vapor barrier membrane must be attached to the racks. You can use a construction stapler to secure it.
Be sure to overlap the membrane strips, and glue the joints with tape; - fix wooden strips about two centimeters thick on top of the membrane. They will provide the necessary clearance between the cladding and the vapor barrier membrane.
Keep in mind that the lathing should be perpendicular to the plastic panels or lining.
To ensure good sound insulation in a home, you should insulate the inner walls with mineral wool, i.e. partitions. The installation principle of the insulation is the same as for the insulation of load-bearing walls.
Now we need to sheathe the frame. Usually for these purposes, wooden finishing materials are used - lining or block house.
Their installation is carried out as follows:
- the lining is most often installed vertically, so the boards must first be cut to the height of the room;
- the first lining is installed so that the tenon is directed towards the corner. To fix it from the side of the thorn, self-tapping screws are screwed into the face.
An example of fastening the lining with a kleimer
From the side of the groove, the fit can also be fixed with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the lower groove of the groove. It is even easier and faster to perform fixation using special fasteners - cleats;
- the next board will be connected to the lock with the previous one and attached to the frame from the side of the groove. The last board on the wall is cut to the width and docked with the previous one. From the side of the corner, the lining is fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the face;
Installation example of wooden battens
- at the end of the work, wooden corners are mounted on the corners. They will hide the joints of the lining and the caps of the screws.
This completes the insulation of the walls inside the house.
Ceiling insulation
As I said above, ceiling insulation can be done from the attic side. However, sometimes it becomes necessary to install a heater from the inside.
If you have a similar situation, you need to prepare the following materials:
- slab insulation;
- wooden slats;
- vapor barrier membrane.
Insulation of the ceiling with mineral wool
Installation of insulation is carried out as follows:
- if there is no flooring in the attic, it must be completed. Boards or other material that is used as flooring should be fixed to the floor beams with nails or self-tapping screws;
- then, from the side of the room, a vapor barrier membrane should be attached to the floor beams and flooring;
- further, the space between the beams must be filled with heat-insulating plates. To fix them, you can fix the rails perpendicular to the beams. You can also nail studs to the lower side surfaces of the beams, and pull threads or wire between them;
- after warming the floor, it is necessary to fix another layer of vapor barrier;
In the photo - installation of vapor barrier
- then the lathing is performed and the ceiling material is mounted. You can also make a frame and sheathe the ceiling with plasterboard.
Here, in fact, is all the information on how to properly insulate a wooden house from the inside.
Output
Having familiarized yourself with the technology, you can safely take on the insulation of a wooden house from the inside. As you can see, there is nothing complicated in this work. I recommend watching the video in this article. For all questions, you can contact me in the comments, and I will gladly answer you.
Suburban wooden houses are being built more and more often. This is explained not only by the fashion for old Russian style, but also by other, completely material reasons.
For example, dry wood is approximately retains heat 2.5 times betterthan brickwork of the same thickness, and wooden walls, gradually drying out, emit pleasantly smelling substances into the air and thereby create a favorable microclimate.
Modern building codes (SNiP 23-02-2003) establish requirements for thermal insulation of buildings. However, a wooden house, even built in compliance with all the rules, dries up and shrinks approximately three years after construction and is not always warm enough to meet these requirements. For this reason, it has to be insulated.
Usually wooden buildings insulate outside... This is explained by the fact that with external laying of thermal insulation, the dew point shifts from the surface or from the thickness of the wall to the surface or into the layer of external thermal insulation. This means that the logs or beams are well warmed up and remain dry at all times. And under such conditions, the wood is well protected from rotting and destruction by fungi.
However, for some reason, it is not always possible to lay the insulation outside. For example, old wooden buildings considered monuments of architecture, local authorities do not allow insulation in this way, as this changes their appearance. In such cases, the owner is forced to install heat-insulating materials from the inside. Details about the features and technology of these works can be found in the article "Internal wall insulation - the best way to keep warm."
Rules for wall insulation from the inside in a wooden house
Do-it-yourself insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the inside is possible if comply with such rules:
- Before starting work, make heat engineering calculations, taking into account the thermal conductivity and thickness of the walls, as well as insulation materials of various types and thicknesses. With all these calculations, the dew point must remain inside the wooden wall for any temperature fluctuation.
- For internal installation, you need to choose heat insulators that do not emit harmful substances and are not subject to decomposition by fungi and bacteria at high humidity.
- Porous insulation must be reliably insulated from the wall with a vapor-water-tight membrane, and from the side of the room - with a vapor-permeable membrane. In this case, the wood does not freeze and does not get wet, since only outside air with a low vapor content penetrates into it. And if condensation forms in the heat-insulating material when the dew point is shifted, then when the temperature in the room rises, it will evaporate and escape through the pores of the vapor-permeable membrane.
- There must be an air gap between the finish and the insulation protected by a vapor-permeable membrane for condensate evaporation.
What kind of insulation to choose?
For internal insulation of wooden houses usually applied such materials:
- Warm seam... This concept includes natural and synthetic sealants. From natural tow, flax or linen rope are used. Synthetic sealants are available in tubes. They contain sealing compounds based on rubber, silicone or acrylic plastic. One of these materials is used to fill the gaps between the logs that have formed after the wood has dried out.
- Mineral wool... Basalt wool is usually used in slabs. Glass wool is not used for internal insulation, since small fragments of fiberglass irritate the skin and respiratory tract. Basalt wool allows steam to pass through and can accumulate a little moisture, so it requires mandatory waterproofing from the tree. Minvata is non-flammable.
- Expanded polystyrene in slabs... It is used in the form of various modifications (penoplex, polystyrene). It is preferable to insulate the walls with penoplex. This fine-mesh material is stronger and better insulating than foam. Expanded polystyrene does not require vapor barrier, since it practically does not allow steam to pass through itself, but it needs waterproofing. In terms of its ability to retain heat, it is about 1.5 times higher than basalt wool.
- Penofol... It is a fine mesh polyethylene foam covered with aluminum foil. Available in rolls. In this case, it is worth using a 3 mm thick material with a one-sided coating to reflect the heat radiation towards the room. Usually penofol is used for combined insulation, protecting the foam from moisture.
Insulation installation technology
In any case, the internal insulation of wooden walls begins with sealing joints logs or beams (warm seam).
After that, the dry inner surface of the walls is processed several times antifungal agents... Lathing bars are also treated with these drugs. After complete drying, they begin to install the thermal insulation.
The walls are insulated in the following sequence:
- Laying a vapor-water-tight membrane... The film is fixed on the beams or logs of the walls in a taut state using staples and a construction stapler. Neighboring panels are laid with an overlap of 15 cm wide. The edges of adjacent panels are glued with construction tape. This layer is neither steam nor water permeable. Usually, a Megaspan B membrane is used for this, laying it with the rough side to the wall, and the smooth side to the insulation.
- Installation of lathing... To do this, you need bars with a cross section of 50 × 50 mm (the thickness is selected according to the thickness of the insulation layer, that is, with a two-layer laying of mineral wool, the cross section of the bar is 50 × 100 mm). The bars are screwed vertically to the wall with self-tapping screws. The distance between them is 2–3 cm less than the width of the mineral wool slab.
- Placement of thermal insulation... Between the beams of the crate, slabs of mineral wool are tightly inserted end-to-end. If 2 layers are mounted, then the plates of the upper layer should overlap the joints of the lower one. After laying, the surface of the slabs should be flush with the battens of the sheathing.
- Securing the vapor-permeable membrane... A vapor-permeable membrane is stretched over the insulation. It is attached with a stapler to the lathing bars with an overlap of 15 cm. This film protects the mineral wool from water drops, but allows steam to pass freely. Usually, Megaspan A membrane is used for this, which is laid with the fleecy side to the thermal insulation material.
- Installation of lathing and finishing... The lathing for the thermal insulation material is built up horizontally with bars with a cross section of 50 × 50 mm, screwing them in with self-tapping screws. Finishing material (wood panels, gypsum plasterboards) is attached to this crate.
Installation of expanded polystyrene plates slightly different in technology:
- laying a vapor-water-tight membrane on the wall is not required, since this material practically does not allow steam to pass through;
- over the expanded polystyrene, a vapor-water-tight membrane is fixed (Megaspan B with the smooth side to the insulation) or penofol with foil towards the room (15 cm overlap film, penofol end-to-end with gluing the joints with metallized tape).
Correctly mounted internal thermal insulation not enough to keep the walls of a wooden house warm. Internal insulation provides for reliable insulation of walls from steam penetrating into the wood from the room.
Previously, this steam escaped through the pores, but after warming, this path is blocked. This means that excess steam must now be removed. forced ventilation... This is best done with an air heating system. In it, forced ventilation and air heating are performed in one cycle.
Exhaust air with excess water vapor is removed from the room constantly. In such conditions, the accumulation of condensate in the insulation does not occur. At the same time, steam does not penetrate into the wood and does not moisturize it.
You can insulate a wooden house from the inside yourself. However, this method of thermal insulation requires some knowledge and strict adherence to the rules. If the technology is violated, the walls of the building quickly collapse.
The main condition for the preservation of walls with internal insulation - reliable vapor barrier. Vapors from the room should not penetrate into dry wood.
Forced ventilation and air heating eliminates the accumulation of moisture in the insulation and the deterioration of the microclimate in the house, even in case of severe frosts.
Do-it-yourself master class on wall insulation with mineral wool in a wooden house from the inside, look at the video:
A video tutorial on the use of a warm seam for insulating a wooden house, see below: