How to properly insulate a wall in a brick bath. Insulation of a brick bath. Selection of materials for insulation

When choosing which bathhouse to build - a wooden or brick one at a summer cottage, you must first decide and understand some of the nuances of these building materials. A feature of the brick is the thorough insulation of the brick bath from the inside, due to its high thermal conductivity.

A wooden bathhouse during construction requires additional measures such as the application of protective equipment against fire, as well as waterproofing the load-bearing elements of the structure.

In contrast to wood, brick structures are fireproof and waterproof. At the same time, in order to improve comfortable conditions when taking hygienic procedures, the insulation of a brick bath from the inside helps to increase the efficiency of heating the building by about 2-3 times. Next, it will be considered how and in what rooms to insulate a brick bath, as well as what materials are best used for these purposes.

Features of internal insulation of a brick bath

When building a bath, it is important to know how and where, if possible, to insulate a brick bath from the inside with your own hands.

The main elements of the structure that require insulation or thermal insulation from the inside of the bath are:

1. Foundation around the entire perimeter of the building.
2. The floor in all rooms is the same along the perimeter.
3. The ceiling, that is, the roof.
4. Walls, both external and internal (partitions).

At the same time, the insulation of a brick bath from the inside, its scheme as a whole does not represent any complex and especially time-consuming process.

Most often, internal wall insulation is carried out according to two common options:

1. By creating an additional second wall along the main one, that is, along the entire perimeter of the main brick wall and inside the room.
2. The recommended thermal insulation inside a brick building is also achieved by installing a double layer of insulation.

As for the insulation of other components of the fragments of the bath, here, as a rule, everything is practically standard, that is, today most of the thermal insulation materials are quite suitable for these purposes.

Bath insulation materials

In order to insulate a brick bath, you will need to purchase certain materials, which in the classical way insulate one or another of its constituent elements from the inside - the foundation, floor, ceiling or walls.

So, for thermal insulation of the horizontal part of the foundation, as a rule, foam or expanded clay is used, since these materials are the most affordable and have all the necessary qualities to cover this element of the bath with them. Vertical insulation of the foundation of a brick bath, for example, with penoplex or polyurethane foam, is recommended to be carried out with the help of specialists, since their independent application will cost the owner of the future bath more than calling a master with a ready-made arsenal of everything necessary for such procedures.

The floor in rooms such as the dressing room and the washing room is recommended to be covered with ceramic tiles with thermal insulation underneath, respectively. Schematically, this procedure can be briefly described as follows: a cranial bar is sewn to the beams, on which the subfloor is mounted from the boards, then a layer of vapor barrier is laid, then a thermal insulation material (expanded polystyrene or expanded clay) is laid on top, and at the end a reinforced mesh is laid on the resulting cake, and all this is then poured with cement-concrete mortar.

At the same time, after the concrete screed has dried, the floor in the brick bath is covered with waterproofing followed by the imposition of ceramic tiles on it. In the steam room and the rest room, the floor covering must be provided with a wooden flooring in order to avoid the so-called thermal shock from the floor heated by steam.

The walls of the steam room in a brick bath are insulated with basalt insulation, which is covered with special bath foil on top. The boundaries of the joints in foil-clad insulation and the foil itself are glued together with a wide aluminum tape specially designed for this purpose.

As for the ceiling, it is insulated on top with mineral wool with mandatory double-sided waterproofing. Ceiling insulation of a brick bath from the inside can also be done with the help of fiberglass, 2 clay-sand layers (one layer is made of sawdust, and the other layer is made of vermiculite or its analog), as well as with penoplex, which is laid on top of all these layers.

At the same time, in the steam room, it is again desirable to cover the ceiling with foil-coated fiberglass, since expanded polystyrene emits substances hazardous to human health when heated strongly.

If the insulation of a brick bath, proven over the years and recommended by specialists, is mainly produced by materials such as mineral wool, expanded clay, vermiculite, penoplex, polyurethane foam, basalt insulation, fiberglass, and so on, then do not forget that there are other bottlenecks. , in which small, but heat losses also occur.

Of course, these places are mainly either door or window openings, usually external. In this regard, it is not advisable to lay large windows facing the street or courtyard, as well as very high doors during the construction of baths. At the same time, it is recommended to place window openings as low as possible, and the entrance door should be equipped with a threshold.

In order for the insulation of the brick bath inside to be more reliable, it is preferable to install triple double-glazed windows on the windows, and choose the doors from wood with insulation inside, or from heat-resistant, shock-resistant, durable glass.

Another small nuance that should not be neglected when building a brick bath is the implementation of a local protective impregnation of a brick from the effects of harmful bacteria. This procedure is recommended mainly in rooms such as a steam room and shower.

It is no less useful to know several reasons due to which it is not recommended to make external insulation of a brick bath. One of them is an unwanted and very expensive cake made from insulation on both sides of the brick. By insulating the walls of the bath from the outside, the consumption increases not only in building material, but also in fuel. The other is significant losses for heating cold bricks in winter.

A simple calculation based on the laws of physics will help to avoid the formation of condensation on the ceiling in the steam room: the thermal insulation for the ceiling should always be proportionally thicker than for the walls.

Summarizing

Since a private bath, whether it is made of brick or wood, is operated periodically, it makes no sense to maintain a constant positive temperature in it. Therefore, as a win-win option, if the bath has a brick frame, it is recommended to take all measures to insulate the premises inside.

Thus, a competent installation for the insulation of brick walls with layers of insulation from the inside will give a good saving in costs for heating the premises. In turn, this means that the thermal insulation material must work according to the rule of keeping warm air in a confined space.

If all the measures for warming the surfaces of the building were carried out correctly, then such a brick bath during operation will retain the maximum heat received from the burned firewood inside, and its visitors will ultimately receive incomparable pleasure from staying in it.

How to insulate a brick bath with your own hands correctly

Quite often, bath buildings are erected from bricks. During their construction, one of the important stages is the insulation of a brick bath from the inside. The fact is that walls made of this material cannot keep heat for a long time.

When a brick bath is being built, wall insulation can be done using various building materials. To provide high-quality thermal protection from the inside so that the heat stays inside the building for a long time, information on this topic will help. See also: "How to build a brick bath - we start with the foundation and finish with the roof."

Materials used for insulation

After the walls are erected, the roof is mounted and the doors are installed, the interior decoration of the building is started. Thermal insulation of a brick bath must be done in such a way that the optimal microclimate and temperature regime are maintained in the premises for a long time. Decorative wall decoration also helps to keep warm inside the building.

Usually, do-it-yourself insulation of a brick bath from the inside is carried out by installing a multi-layer thermal insulation structure. One of its layers is laid from slabs, and the other from rolled materials with a foil-based coating, since this type of thermal protection perfectly reflects IF radiation and protects the insulation from the negative effects of humid air.

To perform this work with high quality, you need to know how to insulate the walls in a brick bath.

Experts advise using the following materials:

• mineral wool in rolls or slabs;
• glass wool;
• slabs of peat or cellulose porous structure;
• reed mats;
• boards made of polyurethane or polystyrene.

It should be borne in mind that thermal insulation materials based on polystyrene, like glass wool, do not have good heat resistance. For this reason, they should not be used when insulating a steam room in a brick bath, in particular its walls and ceiling. To reduce heat loss through the floor covering, a layer of expanded clay is used as an additional heat insulator.

Heaters made on the basis of foil have proven themselves very well. As you know, materials such as foil films are expensive, so kraft paper can be used for interior decoration of bath rooms with a low degree of humidity. The result is savings. For example, cheaper materials can be used for insulation in the recreation room.

Thermal insulation of the floor in brick baths

Insulation options that are suitable for baths under construction are not suitable for thermal protection of bath buildings in which major repairs are being made. But the sequence of work in both cases has a lot in common.

When a brick bath is insulated from the inside, the scheme provides that it is necessary to start work with the floor covering. Heat protection of the floor is needed, since a person moves barefoot on its surface, which means that it should be warmed up as much as possible.

Before insulating a brick bath from the inside with your own hands, you should create an air gap between the foundation of the building and the floor covering. Thus, sufficient thermal insulation will be provided.

When arranging a gap on the base of the room, support bars are installed, and expanded clay is poured in between them, the layer of which should be approximately 2 times the thickness of the walls in the building. On top of the supporting elements, logs made of wooden beams are mounted, which are pre-dried and treated with antiseptics.

Plates of heat-shielding materials are placed between them, and the gaps formed during operation between the lags and the insulation layer should be eliminated using polyurethane foam. Then you need to lay glassine on the floor, and on top of it make a flooring of plywood sheets or boards. The main flooring is mounted at the final stage.

Features of thermal protection of walls in baths

After completing the thermal insulation of the floor, they begin to create protection for the walls. Before insulating a brick bath from the inside, in order to prevent the multiplication of bacteria, the walls in them are impregnated with special means. This procedure is required only for the treatment of some rooms - these are shower rooms and steam rooms.

There are features regarding how to properly insulate a brick bath (walls in it):

1. To reduce the degree of heat loss, gaps between windows and walls are eliminated using polyurethane foam.
2. The frame on which the cladding is mounted is constructed from wooden beams and fixed directly on the brickwork.
3. It is undesirable to use metal profiles and suspensions in work, since they have the property of conducting thermal energy.
4. Mineral wool or polystyrene plates used as insulation are placed in the cells that make up the crate.
5. The heat-insulating material is fixed on the masonry with dowel-umbrellas or special adhesives are used.
6. Before applying thermal protection, bath walls made of bricks must be treated with a penetrating primer.

After completing the fixation of the main thermal insulation material on the walls, you need to lay a vapor barrier layer made of kraft paper, or foil film or other materials.

You need to know how to properly insulate a steam room in a brick bath, because in a particularly humid room, kraft paper will get wet and will soon become unusable.
Foil-based film is best suited for such places.

If necessary, a counter-lattice can be stuffed onto the battens of the sheathing, as a result of which a gap will appear between the outer skin and the vapor barrier layer. Then the lining is nailed to the counter-lattice.

In the case when the bath has a large square, its walls should be insulated on all floors in order to avoid significant heat losses during operation. If there is a loggia, it is also subject to insulation. In addition, to ensure thermal protection of the building, it will not damage the installation of solid entrance doors equipped with at least two sealing circuits.

Ceiling thermal protection procedure

It is impossible to eliminate heat loss in bath rooms without insulation of the ceiling in them. This is especially important when they are located in a one-story building.

The sequence of work when arranging thermal protection of the ceiling in the bath is as follows:

1. Fiberglass is laid on top of the ceiling, placing overlapping strips of material. They are connected to each other using scotch tape or adhesive tape.
2. A solution mixed from clay, chopped straw and river sand is laid on top of the insulation. The thickness of this layer should be approximately 30 centimeters.
3. A layer of polystyrene is laid on the clay mortar, and then a cement mixture with a thickness of about 10 centimeters is poured on top of it.
4. To improve the thermal insulation performance of the bathhouse structure, you can add foam crumbs to the cement mass, observing a ratio of 1: 3, or even better 1: 4.
5. Lathing beams are attached to the rough surface of the ceiling from the inside, placing basalt wool in the slabs between them.
6. A foil film is laid on top of the insulating product, and on top it is sheathed with clapboard, observing a 10 mm gap between the elements.

Subject to the correct implementation of the insulation of the room from the inside, during its operation, the loss of thermal energy will be minimized, which means that a visit to the bath will bring maximum pleasure.

The warmer the bathhouse itself, the less firewood will be consumed to heat it and the longer it will retain heat. In general, bath insulation is a complex process. And the rest room, steam room and dressing room can be insulated in completely different ways: due to their constant microclimate. So how to properly insulate the bath? Let's figure it out.

Thermal insulation of the bath from the inside: photos, diagrams and videos

So, how to insulate a bath from the inside, depending on what material it was built from.

Features of thermal insulation of a log house

For a long time, no one has ever insulated a bathhouse from a log house - not even the floors. It's just that the lags were changed from time to time and the lower rims were repaired. But today, when a good log house and a real Russian steam room are almost a rarity, the question of high-quality insulation is far from the last. After all, its longevity depends on how protected the bathhouse is from moisture and cold.

In general, insulation in a wooden bath is necessary only when the dimensions of the timber are small, in all other cases, caulking and good waterproofing are really enough. For the internal insulation of the steam room of a bath from a bar, a traditional "pie" with mineral wool is used - except that the thickness of the working layer itself can be 2 times less than for a brick steam room.

Brick bath and its insulation

Insulation of a brick bath from the inside is designed primarily so that a brick that quickly freezes at subzero temperatures does not affect heat exchange processes in the bath - if only because it is absolutely unrealistic to heat it up in winter. Therefore, an additional wooden frame is erected in such steam rooms.

These can be the second walls inside the bath - from a 10x10 cm bar. For this, a crate is made in the bath, a waterproofing material is mounted on it, and a wall is erected from a bar. A crate is stuffed onto it and the following materials are attached to it: fiberglass and a ten-centimeter insulation, in which one side is made of foil. Then comes the waterproofing and the finishing lining is stuffed.

You can also implement the second popular option, how to insulate a brick bath: instead of a timber, another layer of insulation of the same thickness is used, and another layer of waterproofing is laid between them. So how does the insulation of a bath from a bar take place today? Basically - reed slabs, which are lightweight, pre-treated with a fire retardant and cost literally a penny. And, so that they still do not rot, they can be additionally treated with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate. It is necessary to put reed slabs in a layer of 15 m between the inner and outer upholstery.

By the way, it is highly desirable to make the inner walls in a brick bath of wood so that there are no problems with thermal insulation later. And insulate them in the usual way.

How to insulate a bath from foam, cinder blocks and concrete

Cinder blocks and foam blocks themselves have quite good thermal insulation materials due to their porous structure. But they can still freeze in winter, and therefore it is necessary to additionally insulate the block bath. Otherwise, all its walls will delight in cold weather with unaesthetic dark wet spots.

Mineral wool and fiberglass are most suitable for such a bath. But in general, the whole cake should be provided with a reliable vapor barrier - any blocks do not like high humidity in the air, and they absorb water into themselves, like sponges. In general, it can be used as insulation and foam.

The first task when insulating aerated concrete walls of a bath is to remove an ice block of concrete from the heating circuit. Why, inside the entire structure, the frame must be made with an indent from the walls. Moreover, the resulting space must be well ventilated - for this, at the top of the bath and at the bottom, special ventilation windows must be made from the outside. During bath procedures, they must be closed, and during drying of the bath, they must be opened. And then the usual "pie" of insulation is made in the steam room and the washing room. The most standard looks like this: aerated concrete or block wall - a frame for insulation with an indent from the wall - insulation - board - vapor barrier where the steam room is finished with an aspen or cedar board. Thus, the ice walls do not have to be heated - that's all the tricks.

Rules for warming a frame bath

The very idea of ​​a frame bath assumes that a lot of heat insulator will be placed inside its wooden "skeleton". This construction technology even has its own name - Canadian, and is considered the most energy-efficient in modern construction all over the world. It is best to insulate such a bath, of course, with mineral wool, but the foam will feel bad here.

In each window of the "skeleton" you need to put a cotton insulator, well protected by steam and waterproofing - that's all the insulation. It remains to sheathe the outer sides of the bath frame with wooden clapboard or OSB plates, and then do the finishing work.

But the steam room in the bath is insulated according to the same principle as the log house - with roll special insulators, which are equipped with membranes and do not require ventilation gaps between the partitions.

Option two: the frame bath is insulated according to the following scheme. a vapor barrier made of parchment (or roofing felt, or roofing felts) is laid directly on the frame, which is attached by means of wood sheathing. Between the resulting inner and outer walls, you need to put foam plastic, fiberboard or heat-insulating reed boards. All this is closed from all sides with layers of asbestos cement, which makes the frame bath both stronger and warmer.

You can also insulate the frame bath with sawdust, gypsum and wood chips. All this is mixed with lime in a ten to one ratio and a thick layer is laid between the outer and inner skin. The main thing is that the sawdust is well dried, and the layers are treated with iron sulfate.

Features of ceiling and floor insulation

For the dressing room and washing room of the bath, ceramic tiles are ideal - but there must also be thermal insulation under them. Here is the most common scheme for warming the floor in a bath: a cranial block is sewn to the beams, on which a rough floor of boards is laid. After that comes a layer of vapor barrier, and then the space between the beams must be filled with the selected heat-insulating material - expanded polystyrene or expanded clay, for example.

On top of this, a reinforced metal mesh is placed and a concrete screed is poured. After the latter has dried, the floor is waterproofed with waterproofing. Again, the screed is 3-5 cm thick and you can build in an underfloor heating system at will. Finally, ceramic tiles are placed on the screed.

But in the steam room and the rest room, the floor is necessarily made of wood - so that the so-called "heatstroke" does not happen.

Drawing up a "pie" when insulating the ceiling

Thermal insulation of a bath from the inside always begins from the ceiling - after all, the highest temperature is always at its level, and therefore special attention should be paid to this part of the steam room. The ceiling should be arranged as follows: vapor barrier - insulation - sheathing - girder - ceiling boards.

If the attic or the second floor in the bath is residential, then the insulation cake will look a little different: the ceiling boards need to be smeared with clay in a two-centimeter layer and covered with wood chips up to 20 cm, or expanded clay or some kind of insulation. The main thing is that it is of the required thickness.

This is how the sauna is insulated from foam blocks, log cabins and bricks. Each type of building has its own technology, and knowing at least its basics will help you always keep your steam room warm.

Before insulating a bath, you need to take into account certain factors that affect this process. It is imperative to take into account what material the bathhouse was built from (brick, wooden modules or foam block), to study all the climatic features of your area.

Log house thermal insulation

From time immemorial, a log house has been installed for a traditional Russian bath. Although it is known that the tree retains heat quite well and the log house can be more than 20 cm in diameter, it is still worth insulating the bath using additional materials.

But why is it still worth insulating the bath? The reasons for this are as follows:

Now you are convinced that it is extremely necessary to insulate your bath. So, let's look at ways to insulate a bath outside. In order to best insulate the log house, caulking (caulking) should be carried out.

Most often, caulking occurs in 3 stages:

• during the first stage, the crowns are stacked one by one, a special inter-crown insulation is placed on the lower crown;
• you should go to the second stage in a year, immediately after shrinkage occurs;
• but the third stage of warming takes place only four years later, already after the bath was built. At this stage, caulking is presented as the restoration of a previously installed sauna heater.

If new cracks have already appeared in the bath and it has begun to quickly release heat, then it is worth using a heater based on jute and flax. This jute retains heat well and is non-flammable. The truth should be remembered that it can easily break. And for this reason, flax was added to the insulation. It is important to do this very carefully when blocking the cracks with this insulation, since if you carelessly, you can provoke a skewing of the bath. You can also use a syringe-shaped sealant to eliminate unwanted crevices. It is easier to use and fills all the gaps with high quality.

Brick bath, the procedure for insulation

It is known that a brick wall cools down much faster than a wooden surface, for example, a log house. This is because the brick gives off heat much faster. And although there are practically no cracks or gaps in the brick walls, the brick wall heats up for a very long time. But remember that this applies to a non-insulated room.

It is best to choose mineral wool for brick walls, as it has good thermal insulation and fire-resistant properties.

It is best to use isospan as a hydro and vapor barrier. Since it is this material that protects mineral wool from all kinds of moisture.

Remember that excessive moisture contributes to the formation of fungus and without isospan, thermal insulation may not last as long as you would like. Speaking about the decoration of the walls in your bath, everything depends entirely on your financial resources and preferences. But it is best to protect the insulation from the outside using siding or clapboard.

1. The preparation of the walls is reduced to the removal of various kinds of protruding fittings, air conditioners, old finishes, etc. streets will be sucked in through the cracks in the bottom of the walls.
   
   

   
   

2. First you need to drill holes for the dowels to fix the metal brackets into the brick wall. The metal brackets themselves, namely the distance between them, must correspond to the selected dimensions of the insulation. Remember that the length of the brackets should slightly exceed the thickness of the insulation, otherwise the facade will be ventilated ineffectively, moisture will accumulate in the cotton wool.

   
   

3. Brackets are fixed with dowels, to which, after laying the mineral wool slabs, profiles of aluminum or galvanized stainless steel are attached. The thickness of the mineral wool slabs is selected based on climatic conditions; for central Russia, 15 cm slabs are sufficient or a two-layer installation of 100 and 50 mm insulation mats is permissible. Cotton wool is inserted between the brackets, the installation is carried out from the bottom up, additional fixation is carried out by "mushrooms" - front dowels.

Note! The metal frame with brackets can be replaced with wooden planks. In this case, 50x50 mm bars are used, which are fixed vertically to a brick wall. Dowels are used for fastening, they are inserted into pre-drilled holes in the wall. Holes for anchors are also drilled in the bars. The distance between the bars is chosen according to the formula "Width of insulation minus 1-1.5 cm". Plates with a thickness of 50 mm are inserted between the guides. When the mats are laid, the sheathing beams are horizontally fixed for the second layer of insulation, and both layers of insulation are attached to the wall with front "fungi". The last stage of work, both in the first case and when using wooden blocks, is to stretch the Izospan strips, glue its joints, after which a vertical counter-lattice is packed under the siding / lining.

"Wet" methods of brick bath insulation

The procedure for warming a frame building

The design of the frame-panel bath is very simple and relatively light, so we understand that it is not suitable for high-weight insulation. And although mineral wool is lightweight, complete with decorative trim, the weight becomes decent. Over time, this can lead to deformation of the walls of your frame-panel bath. Therefore, it will be much better to use polystyrene for insulation, because this insulation is much lighter, it will not contribute to the deformation of the walls.

Styrofoam also has properties such as heat capacity and hydrophobicity. And there is no doubt that this material will serve you for years to come. Do not forget that foam has a number of other advantages. When insulating with this material, you will not need to build a separate frame, the foam should only be attached to a special glue.

Plastering on a grid can be used as a decorative finish. But remember that this should be done only after you have laid the insulation and the glue is completely dry.

Due to the fact that many craftsmen believe that when heated, the foam loses its shape and begins to gradually collapse, they still recommend thinking about using mineral wool when insulating the walls of your frame-panel bath. The choice is yours, because in any case there is a risk.

Video - Do-it-yourself frame bath insulation

Video - Rules and errors of warming a bath from the inside and outside

How to insulate a foam block bath

Many experts argue that a foam block bath should be insulated using the same technology that is used to insulate a brick bath. Others consider this opinion erroneous, all because the surface of the foam block is porous. It follows from this that a foam block bath must necessarily be protected from moisture from the inside, while a brick bath has enough waterproofing material.

For insulation of foam concrete walls, it is recommended to use expanded polystyrene. This is a fairly durable material with high thermal insulation properties and physicochemical properties, it can be easily mounted even alone. The only drawback is the possibility of damage to the insulation by rodents.

Thermal insulation of a foam block bath, the main stages of work

Important note. Aerated concrete bath is insulated according to the same principle as a cinder block bath.

For insulation, you can use basalt wool or foam with a thickness of more than 50 mm. The selected material must be placed between the battens (the installation procedure is described above). Make sure that there are no gaps between the batten and the heat insulator.

If foam is used for insulation, it is recommended to additionally secure it with front dowels or use glue, and glue the joints of the sheets with construction tape.

A waterproofing material is stretched over the layer of insulation, and overlaps of adjacent canvases of 10-15 cm are strictly observed and glued. Directly fixing the rolled material is done with thin slats of a counter-lattice. Further, the fastening of decorative facade panels will be made.

How to insulate a bath from the inside

The technologies for insulating a log house and a brick bath are very similar. Most craftsmen do not consider it necessary to insulate the walls of the bath from the inside, paying attention only to the roof, ceiling and foundation. So let's find out the reasons why the bath should be insulated from the inside and what technologies exist for this.

Why do you need to insulate the bath from the inside

The diameter of a wooden crown in a log bath is most often 20 centimeters. If the caulking was done with high quality, then you will not need to insulate your bath from the inside at all. But there are still reasons why this is necessary:

• it may happen that the diameter of the crown in the log house is small, which in the future will lead to poor thermal insulation;
• the bath must be insulated from the inside if the foundation has not been insulated. Or it was insulated, but very weakly;
• because of bad weather conditions, the outside insulation of the bathhouse is insufficient.

The masters are sure that if it is enough to insulate the bath with high quality, then it will take 3 times less energy to heat it, and it will be possible to use a weaker stove.

The walls of the insulated bath are very similar in structure to a thermos (sometimes it is called the "cake" of insulation). After all, those who are going to really insulate the bath with high quality will need steam and waterproofing.

The walls of the insulated bath have the following structure: a pre-prepared wall, an obligatory layer of waterproofing, thermal insulation, vapor barrier and, of course, decorative finishing.

If you choose the right quality material, then you can independently cope with the insulation of the bath from the inside very quickly. To insulate the bath, you will need material that will:

• high quality, with high thermal insulation properties;
• not prone to rotting, and will not be damaged by a variety of insects;
• most importantly, the insulation must be fire resistant, because the temperature in the bath can be above 100 degrees.

Since not all materials are suitable in terms of quality and properties for the internal insulation of a bath, most often experts use basalt wool. In addition to the fact that it has a very reasonable price, basalt wool is also suitable for other parameters. In addition, it is recommended to choose special synthetic boards that have a soft structure.

It should be remembered that, when insulating the walls, you should perform waterproofing and vapor barrier in parallel with thermal insulation, because these processes are closely related.

First of all, you should prepare the surface of the walls.

If you see any crevices or seams, then you should fill them with plaster. Also for these purposes, experts recommend using a sealant. After you have finished, you should move on to the next step - waterproofing.

Note. If your bathhouse was made of a log house, then waterproofing immediately after construction is strictly prohibited. To begin with, you should wait until the shrinkage ends, often it takes more than a year.

How hydro and thermal insulation is made

First of all, the walls, floor and ceiling of the bath should be protected from moisture. It is best to use polyethylene film or special foil.

The insulation technology itself using foil is simple. The following should be done:

Note. All bars should be greased with a special antiseptic beforehand.

Bath decoration from the outside

Due to the fact that we already have the necessary wooden frame, we can only find high-quality material for the exterior decoration of the bath. Only after this can the insulation of the bath be completed. Most often, wooden lining is used for the external cladding of a bath in Russia.

In conclusion, to all of the above, it will not be superfluous to pay attention to interesting and useful advice from specialists.

The microclimate in the bath room is unique. Competent arrangement of the building involves the insulation of the bath inside. This process is laborious, but quite feasible on its own.

Information on how to properly insulate the bath inside will allow the owner to greatly improve its characteristics. After the completion of the work, it will be possible to save on fuel and ensure the safety of thermal energy in the room.

When deciding how to insulate a wooden bath from the inside with your own hands, you should take into account a number of factors:

• properties of the material used to provide thermal protection;
• personal construction skills and capabilities;
• own preferences.

Features of materials for thermal protection

To determine how and what is the best way to insulate the bath from the inside, you need to know in what conditions the materials will be used:

1. First of all, you need to take into account that both in the steam room and in the washing room, the air is characterized by high humidity. In the dressing room, it is unlikely to be dry. Taking these factors into account, we can conclude: you need to choose a non-hygroscopic insulation or the material must have reliable vapor and waterproofing.
2. In the steam room, the air temperature often reaches more than 100 degrees. Insulation materials such as extruded polystyrene and polystyrene foam in conditions of strong heating will begin to emit substances harmful to human health. For the same reason, plastic and linoleum panels cannot be used to decorate the steam room. In the first case, products are subject to deformation even at 80 degrees of heat.
3. A significant part of thermal energy under high temperature conditions begins to be lost both due to heat exchange and in the form of thermal radiation. To prevent heat loss, the insulation for the bath on the walls from the inside must have a foil surface or a reflective layer consisting of foil must be provided in the thermal insulation scheme.

Insulation of different types of walls

The choice of how to insulate the walls of the bath from the inside depends on the type of material from which it was built:

1. If it is brick, stone or concrete products, thermal protection is required. The fact is that when there is no thermal insulation, the bath will have weeping walls and, as a result of temperature fluctuations, they will quickly begin to collapse. The thickness of the insulation should be chosen taking into account the parameters of the supporting structures and the climate in the region. Most often, experts recommend a 10 cm layer.
2. Is it necessary to insulate a wooden bath? On the one hand, the thermal protection of the building will not hurt, and on the other, wood can be called one of the best materials for the walls of the steam room and dressing room. Of course, it is required to insulate baths from a bar, with a wall thickness of no more than 15 centimeters. Sauna log buildings are thermally insulated when the cross-section of the log does not exceed 20 centimeters.

From the inside, walls of greater thickness are either not insulated, or heat protection is made with the arrangement of waterproofing and clapboard decoration. The lathing is arranged only if there are blockages on the walls.

The horizontally located strips of the vapor barrier are fastened with a stapler with a 5 cm overlap to prevent water from penetrating under the material. First, the lower canvases are hemmed. Polyethylene should not be used for vapor barrier due to the presence of high temperatures.

Selection of materials for insulation

Basalt wool is considered the best solution for insulating the bath from the inside. Rigid mats of 10 cm thickness are used. When thermal protection of the ceiling, the thickness of the thermal insulation layer should be about 15-20 centimeters, since heat loss mainly occurs through the ceiling.

To insulate the bath inside, you still need to have materials at your disposal:

1. For lathing... The most reliable option for brick or stone bath buildings is to build a frame from a profile used for drywall (read: "How to insulate a brick bath with your own hands correctly"). The CD ceiling profile is often chosen, and the UD guide profile is used for edging along the perimeter of the walls. The step of fixing straight suspensions is from 60 to 80 centimeters. The gap between the profiles must be made less by 1-2 centimeters compared to the width of the insulation plates. In wooden baths, bars are used as a profile.
2. For waterproofing... A heat-resistant material with foil is required, impervious to moisture and vapor. There is a large selection of such products on the construction market. For example, you can buy foamed polypropylene, designed for temperatures up to 150 degrees. This material is able to protect the walls of a room from dampness and reflect radiant heat, thereby reducing heat loss. So a 3 mm thick Penotherm layer provides a degree of thermal protection like a 150 mm bar.
3. For fine finishing... Usually they put the insulation in the bath under the lining, as in the photo. This material is produced for the final finishing from linden or aspen, since the products of these tree species are resistant to decay processes, do not heat up even at high temperatures, and retain their original appearance for a long time.

Thermal insulation of floors, windows and doors

When a decision is made on how to insulate a bathhouse inside with your own hands, the possibility of increasing the degree of thermal resistance at the ceiling and walls is taken into account. True, a cool floor and the presence of drafts also take away a lot of heat.

To insulate the door leading to the steam room, a frame made of thick felt is attached to it, which will reliably cover the cracks. Wooden frames near the windows located in the steam room, dressing room and washing room are insulated with cotton wool.

As for plastic, it is not installed in places with high temperatures, but in other rooms you should not be afraid that polymers will undergo thermal decomposition. Self-adhesive foam strips are used to protect plastic windows.

The choice of products, the better to insulate the bath inside, depends on the type of floor covering. Expanded clay is poured onto the surface of the leaking wooden floor, and boards are mounted on top of the leveled backfill.

They begin to equip the concrete flowing floor by digging a pit 50 centimeters deep.

The layers of the thermal insulation structure are arranged from bottom to top in the following sequence:

• sand –5 centimeters;
• foam -20 centimeters;
• concrete mixed in a 1: 1 ratio with foam crumbs - 5 centimeters;
• waterproofing;
• concrete, combined with vermiculite in a ratio of 1: 1 (this is the name of a natural material with low thermal conductivity) –5 centimeters;
• reinforced screed -5 centimeters.

In the process of pouring the base, it is necessary to equip the slope. A boardwalk is mounted on top of the concrete screed on the logs.

In the case when a continuous floor covering is needed, a heat-insulating material is laid on top of the rough base with a layer of 10-20 centimeters, it can be mineral wool or foam. Then it is covered with waterproofing, not forgetting to overlap the walls. On top of this layer, a reinforced screed with a height of 5-10 centimeters is mounted.

Then, as a rule, tiles are laid. Despite the fact that the tiles do not heat up to a high temperature in the steam room, it is advisable to provide for the presence of wooden footrests to make the visit to the bath more enjoyable.

Arrangement of thermal protection of walls and ceilings

Insulation of the walls and ceiling of the bath from the inside is similar to how it is done in other rooms, with special attention should be paid to the reliability of laying the vapor barrier layer.

Stage one - creating the lathing... The procedure for insulating the ceiling in a bath from the inside assumes that the distance from the batten to the base of the wall or ceiling must be made slightly larger than the thickness of the material for thermal insulation.

When using galvanized profiles, this gap is adjusted using suspensions, and the bar is nailed with a lining, it can be a piece of a bar. For lathing made of wood, galvanized suspensions are also used.

The sequence of fastening the profile is as follows:

1. Along the perimeter of the walls or ceiling, the UD guide profile is fixed, observing a 60-centimeter pitch. It is mounted to a bar or logs with self-tapping screws, and to brick or concrete walls - with screws with plastic dowels.
2. The axes of the CD profiles are marked, taking into account the fact that the gap between them should allow laying the heat insulator plates without undercutting. Then hangers are attached to the wall, observing a step of 60-80 centimeters.
3. To install and fix the CD profiles to the suspensions, take metal screws 9 millimeters long. The free edges of the suspensions must be bent.

Stage two - installation of insulation... Basalt wool in slabs is placed between the bars (profiles). Similarly, the insulation of a ventilated facade or loggias is performed. Work must be done in a respirator (gauze bandage) and special glasses. The fact is that the small fibers of this material are volatile and, once on the mucous membrane of a person, greatly irritate it.

A standard sharp knife is used to cut the slabs. You should not accept the insulation during the installation process. Regarding how best to insulate the bath, you need to know that with a constant weight of the material, the less volume it has, the worse its heat-insulating qualities will be.

Stage three - device of vapor barrier... The strips of material in the horizontal direction are fixed from bottom to top, observing a 5-cm overlap. The foil side of the insulation should be turned inside the room.

The method of fixing the vapor barrier depends on the material from which the crate is made. So, before insulating a steam room in a log bath, you need to stock up on a construction stapler. In the presence of a galvanized profile, the strips are fixed with double-sided aluminum tape.

To create a high-quality vapor barrier, the insulation not only needs to be fixed, all existing joints should be glued with the same tape. Then moisture will not be able to penetrate the insulation.

Stage four - clapboard sheathing... To make the room cozy and beautiful after the completion of the insulation, it is necessary to finish the walls.

First, prepare the tools and materials necessary for the work, including:

• circular saw or electric jigsaw;
• drill - screwdriver;
• rasp (required when fitting and processing the edge of the lining);
• construction square (required for marking boards);
• level and plumb line (they are in demand when checking verticals and contours);
• metal clamps for fixing wooden lining;
• copper or galvanized screws, which are needed to fasten the cleats to the bars;
• self-tapping screws for metal;
• skirting boards made of wood for finishing corners.

When carrying out work, you need to take into account a number of points:

There should be a small gap between the lining and the vapor barrier layer. In addition, gaps (no more than 1-2 centimeters) are arranged along the edges of the ceiling, as well as in the upper and lower parts of the walls.

The extreme boards in each row of the lining should be fastened with screws through and through, and their caps will be closed by the plinth. All other boards will be held by the cleats.

The above-described procedure for carrying out the work allows both to insulate the old bath from the inside, and to a completely new building. Thermal protection of a bathhouse is a very important stage, since the efficiency of the steam room depends on its quality. The main thing in the work is to take into account the slightest nuances and then the result will exceed expectations.

For a long time in Russia, the walls of the bath were insulated exclusively with natural materials: felt, flax and moss, which are occasionally used today, were used. But any natural insulation has its drawbacks - birds and mice like to take it away, and the very insulation of the walls in the bath in this case requires special skill. Much better modern synthetic materials - more durable and no less warm.

Of course, how to insulate the walls of a bath seems like a simple question, but in fact there are many nuances here. And the more you know about this, the warmer and safer your bath will be.

For reasons of safety for human health, it is better to insulate the inside of the bath exclusively with natural materials - for example, mineral wool. And it will be protected from moisture by heat-reflecting waterproofing films, sewn up from the eyes with clapboard.

Features of wall insulation from a log house

It would seem, why should the walls be insulated in log structures? The fact is that such a building material as a log house is characterized by shrinkage, from which serious cracks are formed. And through them, cold air penetrates directly into the steam room - which is absolutely not beneficial either for health or for finances in terms of unnecessary fuel costs. Therefore, such a bath needs to be insulated, and the most effective way is mezhventsovaya caulking.

All that needs to be done is to lay out the insulation even during the construction of the log house, and at the end of the construction process the joint of adjacent logs or beams. After that, the fibers are stuffed with a hammer and caulk, and the seams are treated with a sealant.

Technology of the process of warming frame, block and brick walls

But the insulation of the walls inside the bath from the frame is more intricate - here you already need your own methods. After all, such a structure cannot withstand high loads and special weight, and therefore everything must be calculated, first of all, from the technological side. Those. insulation can only be used with a low weight. And foam as an external insulation is simply irreplaceable for block buildings - it is not afraid of water, is lightweight and is attached with ordinary building glue.

The insulation of the walls from the inside in the bath itself looks like this:

• Step 1. Create a frame on the load-bearing wall.
• Step 2. The walls are sheathed with insulation.
• Step 3. Waterproofing materials are attached to the insulation - a foil layer or at least a plastic film. They need to be overlapped, and all joints should be sealed with thin slats.
• Step 4. Everything is sheathed with boards or clapboard - that's all.

Alternatively, use special PU foam plates.

Insulation of walls outside - how to wrap a bath in a "fur coat"

It is necessary to insulate the bath not only inside, but also outside - in order to fully protect it from external cold and significantly reduce fuel costs. And also high-quality external thermal insulation means a significant reduction in fuel consumption, control of humidity and a guarantee against mold and unpleasant odors. After all, the main task of external warming of a bath is to shelter building structures, to protect them from contact with cold air and atmospheric precipitation.

Next, how to insulate the walls in a bathhouse made of bricks and all sorts of blocks? The answer is simple: you need to create a good outer protective layer. The easiest way is to install a ventilated facade. Everything is very simple: a protective layer of waterproofing is applied, and then the wall is sheathed with siding, clapboard or even simple wooden planks.

But good old mineral wool is most suitable as a heat insulator for such a "pie": it is environmentally friendly, fireproof, soundproof and has low thermal conductivity. The very process of warming looks like this:

• Step 1. Brackets are attached, which are made in the form of squares. Between them - a step one centimeter less than the width of the insulation mats.
• Step 2. Mineral wool is inserted - between the squares, which you need to acquire elastic, capable of withstanding significant pressure.
• Step 3. The remaining joints between the boards are glued with construction tape and filled with adhesive.
• Step 4. The walls are covered with a roll-up waterproofing, and it, in turn, is fastened with thin slats.
• Step 5. Now - the installation of guides, which are designed to hold the insulation and serve as a support for the cladding.

By the way, universal materials have already appeared on the modern market that perform two functions at once - insulation and waterproofing. For example, foil-clad penotherm is foamed polypropylene, which is covered with aluminum foil and metal-sprayed levsan. It withstands temperatures up to 1500 degrees and creates a really effective bath insulation.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a brick bath from the inside can be done quickly enough if all the tools and materials are prepared in advance. Be sure to consider the characteristics of the walls. The brick structure benefits in that you do not have to think about protecting the structure from fire. Waterproofing is also not required. The disadvantages of brick buildings include their low thermal conductivity. It is for this reason that the heat is not completely retained, preventing the structure from warming up well.

One of the disadvantages of bricks is low thermal conductivity, so a bath made of this material will need to be additionally insulated from the inside.

How to insulate a brick bath? This question worries many owners of suburban areas. Thermal insulation of the walls increases the thermal insulation properties of the bath. When used in winter and autumn, the bulk of the heat goes to heating the brick. Insulation prevents the walls from freezing. If you cover the outside of the building with clapboard, the heat will still be poorly retained. To heat brick walls, you will need a lot of firewood.

How to insulate the walls of a brick bath

In order for fuel consumption to be reduced, it is necessary to insulate the building from the inside. If the installation is done correctly, the heat-insulating material will keep the warm air inside the room. Heat will not escape through the cracks from the building.

Many owners of private houses ask about how to insulate a brick bath. The easiest way to do this is to build an additional wall. It is best to use in your work those materials that do not emit components. The most popular material for thermal insulation is timber, it has good heat-saving characteristics.

The finished wall will look like a multi-layer "cake". You can insulate a brick bath from the inside very quickly. The scheme is as follows:

1. First, fill the crate on the walls of the brick bath from the inside.
2. When the frame is completely ready, waterproof it.
3. After that, you can start building a wall from a bar.
4. On top of it, fill another crate, close the wall of the timber with fiberglass. Use a stapler to fix the material.

Please note that the fiberglass does not need to be stretched too much. It should hang loosely between the battens. Thanks to the overlap, you can easily place the tile insulation by inserting it into the gaps left between the battens. This is the basic scheme for insulating a brick bath.

For internal steam, you need to make a fence. To do this, cover the insulating material with foil. If you prefer, you can use a film vapor barrier instead. When all the layers of the "pie" are ready, fill the walls of the bath with lining.

Regardless of the choice of material for insulation, its thickness should not be less than 10 cm. In this case, the insulation of brick walls will be of high quality. Always ask the seller for a certificate.

It is very important that the insulation does not emit toxic substances when heated. It is best to choose basalt heaters produced by well-known manufacturers. Such products can be absolutely safely used indoors, they are safe for health.

Remember that the insulation of a steam room in a brick bath must be done.

In this case, harmful substances will begin to be released into the air. Basalt based materials are preferred.

Finish the steam room with foil-clad fiberglass, then the thermal insulation will be effective.

Insulation of the foundation and ceiling

Heat escapes from the building not only through the brick walls. The ceiling and foundation can become the places through which hot air can escape. That is why the insulation of a brick bath should include comprehensive protection of the building. Develop a work plan in advance, focusing on the family budget. You should have a ready-made building insulation scheme.

The process of warming a brick bath consists of several stages. Place basalt wool on the ceiling. On top, apply a mixture of clay and sand in 2 layers, add sawdust to it. Competently performed work will help speed up the heating of the brick bath, save fuel.

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Thoroughly insulate the floor of the brick building, but first protect the outside of the foundation. If this is not done, then floor insulation makes no sense, because hot air will escape from the room through the cracks.

Keep in mind that high humidity acts on the boards of the bath floor. In addition, sudden temperature changes are affected. Insulate the floor in stages. First, fill the inner space of the foundation with expanded clay, you can use slag instead.

Insulate the walls of the foundation from the outside, you can use penoplex. The slabs can be glued to the foundation with a special mixture or mastic. Glue the seams between the plates, and blow out the corners with foam.

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=8xPMUA9VnSM

Conclusion

It is necessary to insulate the bath from the inside in a comprehensive manner. Cover the underfloor with expanded clay, insulate the foundation with penoplex. Do not forget to insulate the ceiling. To insulate the walls from the inside, use basalt wool, lining or timber. Building protection should be multi-layered. Now you all know how to properly insulate a brick bath.

• Material selection
• Insulation of the floor covering
• Thermal insulation of the walls of the bath
• Ceiling insulation
• Window and door processing

At sub-zero temperatures, the brick cools down very quickly, and then it will be difficult and expensive to warm it up. Therefore, the insulation of a brick bath from the inside becomes the main issue for all lovers of steam in the cold. The following is the process of insulating a brick bath from the inside.

With the help of various building materials, it is easy to insulate the bath with your own hands, so that at sub-zero temperatures a hot atmosphere always remains inside.

Material selection

Brick, as is known from practice, cools down quickly and heats up slowly. Moreover, it keeps warm like a sieve. Therefore, it is imperative to insulate the bath. Otherwise, instead of the pleasure and health of the lover to take a steam bath, a continuous inconvenience awaits against the background of an eternal cold.

Scheme of effective insulation of the walls of the bath from the inside

To insulate the bath from the inside, you can use the following materials:

• wood;
• glass wool;
• mineral wool;
• polyurethane plates;
• polystyrene;
• porous cellulose plates;
• pressed reed mats;
• expanded clay.

Each of them has its own disadvantages and advantages, but the price plays the main role in the choice of material. If you have enough money, you can even use a special insulation with foil. It's expensive but really worth it. A layer of insulation (mineral wool or polymer) does not let the cold outside, and the foil reflects the heat from the source back into the room. According to some reports, the return is up to 97% of the generated heat energy. The goal is to keep a constant high temperature achieved, but at a certain cost.

Experts advise to apply a differentiated approach to the insulation of the bath from the inside. Simply put, use different insulation materials in different rooms. For example, in the recreation room and the dressing room, you can do with simple mineral wool, but for the steam room it is worth fork out for foil.

Back to the table of contents

Construction starts from the foundation.

So it is better to start the insulation of a brick bath inside from the floor.

Thermal insulation of the floor covering of the bath

First you need to separate the floor from the ground. For this, a gap (air cushion) is left between them. The process looks like this:

• wooden beams are placed on the ground;
• expanded clay is poured between them (layer thickness - wall thickness multiplied by 2);
• wood logs, dried and treated from insects, are laid on this frame;
• insulating material of your choice is laid between them;
• the joints between the lags and the insulation are filled with polyurethane foam;
• from above, everything is covered with a layer of glassine (relatively inexpensive, but high-quality insulating material);
• then the main floor is laid from boards or plywood.

After that, the base floor can be laid.

If a stationary stove is provided in the bath, a capital foundation must be made for it, otherwise its weight will lead to deformation of the floor and its destruction.

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When finished with the floor, you can move on to the walls. Brickwork, before it is closed by insulation, must be treated with a liquid from fungus and mold. Some advise you to limit yourself to the treatment of the steam room and shower, but moisture will penetrate everywhere, so it is better to process all the walls.

Bath ceiling insulation scheme

The process is broadly as follows. Blow out the joints of window frames and walls with polyurethane foam, repeat the same with the doors. Wooden frame beams are attached to the walls. It is better not to use metal, because it is susceptible to corrosion and takes away heat. Then we lay and fasten the selected type of insulation (if it is glued, the walls must be treated with a primer). The next step is to fix the insulating layer. Foil, glassine, kraft paper are good for this purpose, although the latter can get wet and deteriorate over time.

On top of the insulating layer, a counter-lattice treated with antiseptic agents is attached to create ventilation gaps. Planks for wall cladding are attached on top.

Different materials imply their own special technologies. But in general, the sequence of actions is as described above.

It should be borne in mind that the whole bath needs to be insulated as a whole, and not just individual rooms. Otherwise, the "cold" areas will draw off heat.

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Heat in a brick bath is also lost through the ceiling. Heat loss can be especially strong in one-story saunas, and an air cushion in the attic will not help. Therefore, you need to do the insulation of the ceiling too.

The work is carried out after the floor and walls of the bath have been insulated. A typical work sequence is as follows:

• overlapping sheets of fiberglass are laid on the overlap, the joints are glued together with tape or glue;
• a mixture of sand, clay and coarsely chopped straw is applied on top, it is also called "adobe" (thickness is not less than 30 cm);
• on top of this layer, polystyrene (foam) plates are placed;
• a layer of concrete is poured onto them (at least 10 cm thick);
• on the resulting "rough ceiling" the lathing beams, treated with an antiseptic, are laid;
• mineral wool slabs are placed between them;
• foil is placed on top of the insulation (above the steam room and shower, it is absolutely necessary);
• the whole structure is closed with boards so that an air gap of at least 10 cm remains between them and the surface of the insulation.

Such a ceiling will reliably keep heat even in the most severe frosts.

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It is impossible to insulate a brick bath without sealing windows and doors. There is a serious loss of heat through them, so even if you have properly insulated the floor, walls and ceiling, the room may still not warm up due to cracks in the frames and loose doors.

If you are a supporter of natural materials and have installed wooden doors and window frames for yourself, you need to carefully seal all the cracks.

Glasses must be carefully adjusted to the size of the frames and firmly adhered to the grooves. The joints are covered with putty so that it also covers the nails with which the glass is attached. By the way, a window of 1 glass is not suitable for a bath, it is better to put frames on 2 glasses, or even 3.

In the latter case, a double-glazed window would be an ideal solution. It will provide reliable sealing, thanks to which the windows will not fog up and rot from excess moisture.

You can turn to the proven folk traditions that our grandfathers and great-grandfathers used. To reduce heat loss, the windows in the bathhouse were lowered as low as possible in relation to the ground, the door was made low, and the threshold high.

Now, after the insulation work has been completed, you can safely bathe all year round, without fear that the winter winds will blow precious heat out of the bath.

1pokirpichu.ru

How to properly insulate a brick bath from the inside with your own hands?

Comparing a brick bath with a wooden one, you understand that it wins several times in terms of quality characteristics. First, the brick doesn't burn. Secondly, it is absolutely not afraid of moisture, so there is no need to cover brick walls with moisture-resistant and antiseptic compounds.

But this material has a decent thermal conductivity, which makes brick baths poorly protected from cold air penetration. Therefore, a process such as warming a brick bath is a prerequisite for the construction of this building.

The best option is insulation outside. But there are situations when thermal insulation measures can only be carried out from the inside. For example, if the bathhouse is built right next to some other building. Or a brick wall serves as a facade finish. But there is another explanation why it is better to insulate from the inside than from the outside.

The bathhouse is heated inconsistently, so in winter its walls freeze through. And if you start to heat it, then all the heat will go to warming up the walls, and only after that to the interior. So, in this article we will consider the second option - insulation of a brick bath from the inside.

Warming options

Immediately, we will make a reservation that there are a large number of different ways where different heat-insulating, and not only, materials are used. Let's consider the main options that you can do yourself.

Option number 1

This method is considered by the master to be the simplest, so doing it yourself will not be a big problem. It is based on the process of wall insulation with heat-insulating materials, which fit into the crate or without it. Here is the sequence of this process:

• The inner surfaces of the walls must be waterproofed. To do this, they must be leveled with plaster or putty, and after drying, apply a coating waterproofing. We recommend using bitumen-based mastics. Rarely when roll material is used for these purposes.
• Next, a crate of wooden beams is stuffed onto the walls, which are pre-treated with an antiseptic solution.
• Now, insulation is laid between the elements of the crate.

Advice! The optimum thickness of the heat insulator for bath rooms is 200 mm. It is necessary to lay the insulation between the beams in an interference fit so that there are no gaps that will become cold bridges. Please note that in this case, the thickness of the insulation and the width of the timber must be the same.

• After that, a vapor barrier membrane is stretched right along the crate. It is attached to wooden elements with metal brackets. Therefore, you will need to purchase a stapler.
• And already on the very crate, the lining is mounted.

Often, experts use double wall insulation, while installing two battens with insulation 100 mm thick. The process is more complicated, but it will not be difficult to do it yourself.

If penoplex is used as a heater, then there is no need to install hydro and vapor barrier layers. But it is better not to give up the crate. This is the base on which the lining will be mounted.

Option number 2

The second way to insulate a brick bath is to build another wall near the walls, only a wooden one with a heat-insulating layer. For this, a frame made of wooden slats is installed on a brick.

Its elements can be laid horizontally or vertically. Everyone decides for himself. But remember that the elements of the wall itself will be laid perpendicular to the elements of the frame:

• Now the waterproofing membrane is stretched and fastened along the crate.
• Next, a second wall is built. It is most often erected from wooden beams with a section of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm. Please note that the elements of the new wall must fit tightly to each other. This thickness of the wooden wall is already an excellent indicator of thermal insulation.
• But now you need to decide whether to use additional insulation or not. If "yes", then a crate is assembled along the new wall, where the heat insulator is laid. A vapor barrier or foil roll material is installed on top of the lathing. If there is no need for insulation, then the crate is mounted anyway, only from slats of small thickness. A waterproofing material is stretched on top of the frame.
• And the last stage is the decoration of the walls with clapboard.

Advice! The bathhouse has a fairly large number of different rooms that are purely for their purpose. So, in all rooms except the steam room, any heat-insulating materials can be used as insulation. In a steam room, insulation with a foil layer cannot be used.

Thermal insulation of other building elements

In addition to the walls in a brick bath, insulation of other structures is mandatory. Those who carry out these construction operations for the first time with their own hands make one important mistake. They do not insulate the foundation. But in vain. Thermal insulation of the floor is not the final stage when it comes to compliance of the lower structures of the building with thermal insulation standards. Just like walls, floors and foundations freeze through in winter if they were built from concrete mortar. Insulation of both building elements is the basis for reducing fuel consumption and heat loss. Therefore, it will be necessary to insulate the foundation.

The easiest option is to glue foam plates to its inner surfaces. Their thickness is 5-7 cm - the best option. It is important here that there are no gaps between the panels. Although this trouble can be corrected by foaming the cracks with polyurethane foam.
Do not forget to insulate the ceiling, and, if possible, the roof. The more investments in thermal insulation, the less heat loss, which means savings in fuel consumption, which is used to heat the bath and heat hot water for washing.

So, only two options were offered, answering the question of how to insulate a brick bath. As you can see, there is nothing complicated in these methods; even a beginner can do them with their own hands. It is important here to follow exactly the stages of the construction operations being carried out, plus be able to use simple construction tools. But do not forget that both methods are associated with wooden products, which must be treated with antiseptics.

utepleniem.ru

Do-it-yourself insulation of a brick bath from the inside and outside

From the point of view of the formation of the required microclimate and the durability of the building, the use of bricks for the construction of a bath is economically justified. Whatever the insulation of a steam room in a brick bath, the requirements for moisture transfer and permissible moisture accumulation are met in almost 100% of cases, regardless of the chosen insulating sandwich scheme. Even if the principle of a consistent increase in vapor permeability in the direction from the steam room to the street is violated, the high level of permissible moisture accumulation in the brick compensates for this disadvantage. However, in addition to optimizing moisture transfer, there are a number of other specific requirements for the insulation of brick baths, which will be discussed in the article.

Bearing walls made of bricks are distinguished by high thermal conductivity and heat capacity, acting on these properties as the complete opposite of log cabins.

We carry out insulation of a brick bath from the inside, only at the stove we do not forget about fire safety

Unlike thermal insulation of residential premises, it makes no sense to insulate a bath from ceramic or silicate bricks outside. For buildings with periodic heating, the heat capacity plays a negative role, since it requires more time for heating. For this reason, the main thermal insulating layer in brick baths should be placed exclusively in the composition of the inner sandwich.

You can find recommendations for insulating brick baths with the help of internal masonry made of a wooden bar with a section of 100 x 100 mm, on top of which a layer of mineral wool is mounted. This begs the question: why bother with brick at all, if the first layer of such insulation is a sufficiently strong wall for a one-story building? This scheme is not feasible from an economic point of view.

How to insulate a brick bath without investing extra money and effort into it? The correct solution from all points of view is the use of three materials: a waterproofing membrane, thermal wool and an infrared screen made of aluminum foil. Taking into account the air gaps, the layers in the sandwich should be arranged in the following order from the inside to the outside of the bath:

Brick bath insulation scheme

• decorative interior decoration (lining, tongue-and-groove boards, etc.);
• gap 1 - 2 cm;
• foil-insol, oriented with the reflective side inward;
• mineral wool (slabs or roll material 10 cm thick);
• waterproofing membrane.

It is easy to insulate a brick bath from the inside with your own hands without the involvement of specialists. To do this, it is quite enough to confidently own a drill, stapler, hacksaw and screwdriver, as well as to have a sufficient amount of free time. First, a membrane is attached to the load-bearing wall. Then a vertical lathing is mounted, with a thickness equal to the insulating layer or exceeding it by 1 - 2 cm. Cotton wool is laid inside the lathing, after which the foil-insol is attached to the bars with a stapler. Better to overlap the stripes. The joints of the foil-clad material are insulated with special tape. On top of the infrared screen, a horizontal rail is stuffed, which serves as a support for the finishing and a base for the formation of an air gap.

Expanded polystyrene can be used as the main insulating layer, subject to two conditions:

1. As an infrared screen, a material is used that has an inner surface of polyethylene foam with a thickness of at least 1 cm.
2. An air gap of at least 2 cm must be maintained between the screen surface and the expanded polystyrene plates.

Due to these measures, penoplex or polystyrene does not heat up to the permissible limit of + 75 ° C, even if the temperature in the steam room reaches temperatures above + 90 ° C. The boards are glued to the inner surface of the brick wall, and the waterproofing membrane is excluded from the sandwich.

Correction of insulation and ventilation by efflorescence

Efflorescence can be removed with special products.

By themselves, efflorescence on brickwork is not a problem for the load-bearing wall, but they may indicate that the insulation scheme is not working properly, leading to a violation of moisture transfer. In winter, the partial pressure of gases dissolved in water increases. The capillary movement of liquid through the thickness of the brick increases in the direction from heat to cold. Internal condensation and capillary flow cause waterlogging of the layer located 2 - 3 cm from the outer surface of the wall.

At subzero temperatures, waterlogging is not striking due to freezing of bricks from the street side. In the spring, the condensate accumulated over the winter begins to precipitate intensively on the surface, carrying water-soluble salts with it.

If efflorescence is equally formed on all walls, then the reasons can be covered in the quality of a brick, in the composition of the solution, in violation of the masonry technology. However, in the case of localization of salts on individual walls of the bath and their sections, it makes sense to revise the insulating sandwich, provided that the influence of an unsuccessful ebb design on the process is excluded. This must be done in order to level the operating mode along the entire bearing perimeter in order to increase the building resource.

On a wall with intense efflorescence, you should:

Add foil insulation

• add foil insulation, if it has not been installed earlier, or eliminate possible defects in this layer (for example, poor-quality sealing of joints);
• provide a ventilated gap between the vapor barrier and the main thermal insulation;
• add an exhaust vent.

Insulation of the floor and ceiling of a brick bath

The implementation of bearing walls made of bricks does not carry any conclusions regarding the method of floor and ceiling insulation. The design of thermal protection of horizontal planes depends solely on the construction of the foundation, sub-floor, ceiling and under-roof space. Consider only the most common design options for these surfaces in brick baths.

Concrete sub-floor on the ground

Installation of underfloor heating in a bath on the ground

Today, the most popular option for insulating a concrete floor in a bath is the use of expanded polystyrene plates 10 cm thick. There is no need to arrange waterproofing between the insulation and concrete, provided that the joints of the EPS boards are carefully sealed. A reinforcing mesh is laid on top of the expanded polystyrene and a screed 3-5 cm thick is poured on top. On top of the screed, if non-waterproof concrete was used for it, waterproofing is arranged and a plank floor is mounted. In dressing rooms and rest rooms, it is recommended to cover the floor with ceramic tiles. In order to eliminate cold bridges, along the perimeter of the walls, the finishing screed must be insulated from the base with a vertical layer of expanded polystyrene.

The second common way to insulate a concrete subfloor is to use expanded clay backfills. Since a significant thickness of this material is required (at least 20 cm), beams of the corresponding section impregnated with a composition that prevent rotting are installed on top of the concrete. After backfilling, finishing logs are packed onto the timber to install a plank floor. Under the finishing floor with such a scheme, it is imperative to lay two types of membranes - windproof and waterproof. Between the expanded clay layer and the windscreen, an air gap of at least 5 cm must be provided.

Internal ceiling insulation

Thermal insulation of the ceiling of the bath with mineral wool

Further (upward), provided that a flat board ceiling is used, the main heat-shielding layer is located - mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. A layer of waterproofing is laid between the mineral wool and the boards.

Regardless of the design of the floor and the type of roofing room, the two inner layers of ceiling heat protection are no different from the wall equipment. It is a lumber finish and an infrared foil screen positioned with respect to the air gap relative to the cladding.

External insulation of the ceiling

If the ceiling is made of large-section wooden beams (at least 30 cm), the main insulation layer is located on the side of the under-roof room. Expanded clay or eco-wool is poured between the beams. Another common option is to use aerated concrete screeds filled with sawdust or straw. A layer of waterproofing material is necessarily laid on top of the backfill insulation.

Video: the practice of budgetary internal insulation of a brick bath

It makes sense to solve some issues of warming baths of this type even before the start of construction. This will avoid waste of materials and cost savings.

1. Since the heat capacity of a brick is an unclaimed resource during the operation of baths, and the thickness of this material has almost no effect on heat protection, it makes no sense to make thick load-bearing walls. A single brick laying is more than sufficient.
2. When choosing a heater, it makes no sense to proceed from the degree of its fire safety, because the finishing interior decoration is still made of a combustible material - wood.
3. If you choose the layout of the stove with its abutment to a brick wall, you should not try to insulate this area from the inside or outside. All the same, the temperature will not allow you to do this from the inside, and from the side of the street you will not eliminate cold bridges. Instead of completely adjoining the stove to the wall, it is better to use an asbestos and steel screen as an intermediate layer.

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How to choose material and insulate a brick bath from the inside

• Which insulation would be better - external or internal?
• Options for performing thermal insulation of the walls of the bath from the inside
  • Construction of an additional wall
  • Insulation in two layers
• Why insulate the foundation of a brick bath
• Thermal insulation of the sauna ceiling

To figure out how to insulate a brick bath from the inside, you need to understand the performance characteristics of the wall material. Compared to a wooden bathhouse, a brick structure wins in that it does not require any treatment against fires or a waterproofing device. A brick bath has only such a drawback as a small thermal conductivity. This prevents the bath or sauna room from warming up well, and the heat is far from being completely retained. To increase the building's thermal insulation properties, brick walls can be insulated.

In order for the bath to be warm, it must be built in one and a half or two bricks.

When it comes to a private bath, it makes no sense to keep the inside temperature constant above zero all the time. But due to periodic use in the cold season, the walls can freeze through and through, and when trying to flood the bath, all the heat goes mainly to heating the stone. When performing insulation from the outside, the brick almost does not heat up, it is covered only by the lining, so much more resources will be spent on heating than it could.

Thermal insulation of the walls of the bath from the inside helps to reduce fuel consumption. When installed correctly, the heat-insulating material does not release the heated air outside, and it remains inside the room.

The construction of your own bathhouse made of aerated concrete or timber is currently not so widespread. Modern builders and developers prefer to use ordinary building bricks for the construction of the walls of the bath.

Especially popular for these purposes was the double silicate brick M 150, which, in terms of its parameters, is practically not inferior to wood.

Thanks to the availability of information on the Internet, everyone can learn how to insulate a brick bath with their own hands, this is not particularly difficult now. The main requirement is to do everything accurately and correctly.

Thermal insulation of brick baths

Building bricks can easily absorb moisture, therefore, when building a bath, it is necessary to avoid contact of bricks with the ground. Before insulating a brick bath, you should decide on the insulation option.

Modern baths are being built today with several thermal insulation options:

• baths lined with insulation in the form of slabs;

• air-cushion baths in the wall;

• baths with a layer of thermal insulation between the outer and inner layers of the walls.

With slab insulation

Insulating the walls of a brick bath from the inside is the most common way.

In this case, the order of work is as follows:

• mark the walls;

• holes are drilled in the seams;

• wooden plugs are inserted into the holes;

• a frame made of a metal profile or from wooden slats impregnated with an antiseptic is attached to the prepared brick wall;

• fastened to the slats of the insulation plate;

• cover the insulation with a layer of waterproofing with an overlap, avoiding gaps. Most often, various foil materials are used for these purposes;

• carry out the final finishing with clapboard.

Note!
Insulation inside the steam room should not only be environmentally friendly, but also able to withstand high temperatures in the room.
Using the wrong material can lead to a complete loss of thermal insulation.

With an air cushion in the wall

This type of insulation is done at the stage of wall construction. A gap of 4-6 cm is left between the inner and outer masonry. Reinforcement is performed every 4-6 rows by laying steel bars with curved edges.

Insulated between the walls

This insulation method is based on the use and backfill.

Work instructions:

• carry out masonry, making transverse walls every 3 bricks;

• as the masonry rises, fill up the voids between the walls of expanded clay, fine slag or sand with lime and shavings;

• after 10-15 cm of insulation filling, it is carefully tamped;

• the last layer of backfill is reinforced with a metal mesh;

• complete the laying, performing 3-4 rows of solid;

• if in the future the wall is not plastered, then all the seams are completely filled with mortar. If the wall is to be plastered, the joints should be left 10-15 mm unfilled.

Note!
If you have a lot of bricks with some kind of flaw, then you need to lay them with the good side out.
This will not only improve the appearance of the masonry, but also keep the brick from moisture saturation.

Floor and ceiling insulation

Thermal insulation of the brick walls of the bath from the inside is not the only problem. Insulation of the floor and ceiling should be carried out in the same way.

For work with the ceiling, you will need the following materials:

• insulation;
• roll-up shields;
• vapor barrier;
• filing for the ceiling;
• bars;
• waterproofing;
• anchor;
• boards.

The simplest option for insulating the ceiling is to use a mixture of straw and clay as insulation, which is applied in a thick layer. It should be remembered that the quality of insulation directly depends on the quality of the insulation, so the cheapest way is not always the best.

Final finishing

The interior cladding of the steam room is usually made of wood materials. Linden or aspen lining is considered to be ideal. However, aspen lining eventually loses its pleasant color, although it is famous for its healing properties.

A more practical option is to use pine lining. The price for it is much lower, and the aroma and benefits are almost the same.

Output

Correctly and carefully completing all the stages of insulation, you can get an excellent bath, which will delight you and your friends for a long time. In the video presented in this article, you will find additional information on this topic.

External or internal insulation of the bath is necessary. This reduces fuel consumption and slows down the cooling of indoor air. If the structure is not insulated, then it will take several times longer to heat the steam room to the desired temperature.

We insulate the bath with our own hands

Before building a building, it is necessary to calculate the means and forces for thermal insulation. It is best if the process of warming begins during construction, more precisely, from laying the foundation.

Basic requirements for materials for bath insulation

Cheap solutions (impregnation, septic tanks) will not perform the role of good thermal insulation. Of course, moisture protection is necessary in any case, but this is a separate task. It is necessary to insulate the premises of the bath separately, using materials specially created for this. It is customary to pay the most attention to the inside of the washroom and steam room. The selection of insulation and thermal insulation is done with the expectation of a rough building material.

One of the most important requirements for insulation materials is non-toxicity. Because in the bath, under the influence of temperatures, toxic materials can easily cause poisoning. Non-hygroscopicity is also important; the insulation should in no case absorb moisture.

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When choosing a specific material, you need to rely on the following characteristics:

• resistance to steam and high temperatures;
• good fire-fighting properties;
• environmental friendliness;
• low hygroscopicity;
• the ability to maintain shape for a long period.

Types of heaters for a bath

All heaters presented on the construction markets are divided into three conditional groups:

Of course, even 50-60 years ago, only natural materials were used, which were brought from the nearby forests. This is foam, tow or moss. Today these are already partly elite types of insulation, they cost serious money due to the need for manual collection. Many fans of natural materials insulate their buildings with rolled jute felt or tow. Such material can be purchased at hardware stores. With regard to moss, there are conflicting opinions regarding its use. They say that moss is not an ideal material for insulation, because it provokes the growth of mold or mildew. However, the moss itself does not have such properties; most likely, the fungus is formed due to improper cutting of a wooden structure or poor ventilation.

How to work with different types of buildings

The installation procedure and the required amount of work depend on the material from which the bath is built.

Insulation of log cabins

When working with a bar or log, you need to take into account the time for shrinkage, which can be 10 cm m more. Plus, gaps form between the crowns of such buildings, and it is in them that cold air blows in. It is best to insulate a log house or an assembly from a bar with jute fiber.

This material does not rot and has excellent thermal conductivity. Jute itself is a very fragile material, so manufacturers try to add flax fibers to it. But if friable material is already available, classic caulking can be performed. There will be less work, and the building will probably retain more heat.

If it is decided to create a bathhouse from wood, then the insulation is laid during construction. It is better to isolate all problematic parts of the log house in the process.

The work is performed in the following sequence:

Thermal insulation of buildings made of bricks or foam blocks

If log cabins are insulated in a primitive way, then you will have to work hard with masonry. And there are more financial investments specifically for working with insulation. Additional thermal insulation is necessary, otherwise a well-heated room will cool down in hours. Better to work on materials than stock up on fuel the rest of the time.

A widespread and proven method is a hinged ventilated facade. The working process does not take place from the inside, but from the outside of the bath. It is necessary to fix the layers of insulation to the walls, and sheathe the top with siding or clapboard. In the interval between the layers, a space filled with air is formed, due to which condensation will not form on the walls and rot and dampness will not follow.

The width of the frame for the ventilated facade is made greater than the thickness of the insulation, therefore an air gap forms inside, preventing the formation of condensation

For a brick building, the following trick is often practiced: a steam room is made of wood indoors. Brick absorbs heat for a very long time, so it is easier to warm a small room in a steam room in a natural way if you use a small frame.

A 10x10 beam and a crate are enough. The process of insulating such an impromptu steam room inside a large bath is simple:

You can make it even easier: do not use a timber, but instead of it, immediately fix the insulation on the frame. In this case, an additional layer of waterproofing will be required.

Calculation and selection of materials and tools

We insulate all surfaces of the steam room, washroom and dressing room. And for this you will need:

1. Roll paper (for ceiling and walls).
2. Bar-rail (5x5, for installation of insulation on the ceiling and walls).
3. Foil.
4. Insulating tape.
5. Self-tapping screws.
6. Aluminum adhesive tape.
7. Insulation, calculated according to the area of ​​walls, ceilings and floors.

Of the tools you will need:

• screwdriver;
• level and plumb line.

Do-it-yourself sauna insulation

Any stages of warming are always performed according to the golden rule - they start from the ceiling and finish with the floors.

Ceiling insulation

Before starting work with the ceiling, you need to understand that in the steam room you need 2 times more material. After all, we are not working on a sauna, but on a Russian bath, where the steam should stay as long as possible.

The technology is as follows:

1. We cover the entire surface of the ceiling with overlapping roll paper.
2. We fix the bars on top of the paper, insulation will already lie between them.
3. We cover it all with foil. It will become a normal, safe isolation ward. But it is necessary to mount the foil without saving. It is important that all connections are closed.

   A layer of foil reflects heat, so the use of such a material for a bath is necessary

4. All joints on the foil are glued with aluminum tape. Usually, the foil for insulation comes with the material.
5. Fasten the edges and joints with several layers of adhesive tape. We check our work for leaks. If there is not enough money for such a heater, then the foil is sometimes replaced with cardboard or thick paper without paint.
6. Next, we mount the layers of insulation on the foil between the closed bars.

   On the ceiling, it is better to lay the insulation in two or three layers with overlapping joints

7. We close the front part of the ceiling with clapboard under a tree. This material is resistant to high temperatures and will not tar.

For a frame bath, it is necessary to put insulation on the ceiling and walls, but for a timber and log bath, you can do without it. For example, if a sauna is made of a log, it is enough to pre-sew up its ceiling with thick boards - at least 6 cm.Mineral wool is most suitable as a heater for the ceiling - only it must be laid in a layer of at least 15 cm.

Video: insulation and finishing of the ceiling from the inside

Wall insulation

The best solution for wall insulation is a construction set made of materials that can be easily repaired or replaced.

The structure of the insulation of the walls of the bath resembles the device of a roofing pie

Video: insulation and foil upholstery in a pair of rooms

Thermal insulation of the floor in the bath

And finally, let's work on the floor. Indeed, a large amount of heated air usually leaves the room through it. Expanded clay is most often used as insulation for floors - it is an inexpensive and reliable insulation that prevents the appearance of mold and condensation.

It is cheaper, of course, to sprinkle everything with slag, but expanded clay is more environmentally friendly and weighs less. When installing wooden floors, the material is placed between the logs. If a concrete floor is poured, then expanded clay is placed between each concrete layer.

Let's analyze the usual cycle of work on the insulation of a concrete floor.

Video: features of the device of the concrete floor in the bath

In addition to the walls, floor and ceiling, they also pay attention to the insulation of doors, windows and window openings. They are treated with silicone sealants. It is customary to insulate external doors with natural materials. And it is not customary to save on them, otherwise in a few years, or even for the next season, everything will have to be redone.