How to properly insulate the ceiling and walls in a private house. The cheaper it is to insulate the ceiling of the house. What is the best way to insulate the ceiling? Necessary tools and materials The better to insulate the ceiling of the house

• General rules for ceiling insulation and types of insulation
• Modern heaters
• What insulation for the ceiling is better to choose?

In Russian climatic conditions, the question of which insulation is best used for thermal insulation of the ceiling is very relevant. To reduce heating costs, it is necessary to minimize heat losses that occur through all building envelopes - walls, windows, ceilings and doors.

Scheme of thermal insulation of the ceiling of a private house.

Most homeowners try to install high-quality doors and windows, they additionally insulate the walls, but they often forget about the insulation of the ceiling. Meanwhile, it is through this enclosing structure that up to 15-20% of heat can escape. Everyone who remembers a school physics course knows that warm air rises and there it contacts the cold surface of an uninsulated ceiling.

As a result, condensation occurs, i.e. humidity in the upper part of the room increases. Of course, this does not benefit the health of the residents of the house, since dampness can provoke the appearance of fungus and mold. Therefore, the question of which insulation is better to choose for the ceiling should be puzzled by every owner of a private house.

Regardless of what material you decide to choose for ceiling insulation, you need to follow the general rules for insulation.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling and other structures is a very labor-intensive, but mandatory measure. The result of the efforts made will be comfortable temperature conditions in the house with minimal financial costs for heating. Carefully study and remember the following rules before choosing a thermal insulation material for your ceiling:

Scheme of roof insulation with mineral wool.

• material for insulation of the ceiling must be environmentally friendly;
• insulation should prevent the spread of fire in case of fire;
• reducing heat loss, the selected heat-insulating material should not have a significant impact on the processes of natural vapor circulation occurring in your home.

It is necessary to ensure the impossibility of moisture getting on the insulation material. When trying to find the best material to insulate your ceiling, you will come across several different solutions.

Expanded clay is a light, free-flowing and absolutely non-combustible material made on the basis of clay. This material is harmless, it is not afraid of moisture and has fairly good thermal insulation characteristics. Various pests and rodents do not start in expanded clay.

The most popular insulation for the ceiling based on mineral wool.

Mineral wool has all the necessary characteristics and fully meets the requirements for modern thermal insulation materials. Insulations based on mineral wool have minimal flammability, low thermal conductivity, high sound insulation characteristics and good vapor permeability. This material practically does not absorb moisture, it is resistant to mechanical stress and quite durable (service life - up to 50 years).

Fiberglass insulation is no less popular. The main difference between these heaters is their somewhat lower resistance to temperature effects and greater water absorption than mineral wool, which requires the installation of an appropriate water-repellent coating. Among the advantages of this material, it should be noted its low weight and excellent sound absorption.

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Scheme of facade insulation with mineral wool.

The listed materials have proven themselves well, but recently new generation materials have begun to “come” to the heater market. These include penofol, polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam. All of them have a similar production technology, which is based on the foaming of the polymer mass by temperature or chemical means.

Of the "newcomers", the main competitor for traditional thermal insulation materials has become a heater based on extruded polystyrene foam. Among the advantages of such an insulator are low thermal conductivity, low weight and relatively low cost.

The disadvantages of expanded polystyrene are its low vapor permeability, which is why special attention must be paid to ventilation. In addition, polystyrene foam insulation is problematic to use for insulating a ceiling with a complex configuration. But for flat and operated structures, the choice of extruded polystyrene foam is quite appropriate - due to its fairly high mechanical strength.

Other heaters are also popular.

So, ecowool is an environmentally friendly material based on cellulose, which is characterized by good thermal insulation qualities. Penoizol is a porous polymer material with an unlimited service life. And, of course, polystyrene is a lightweight, fireproof, easy-to-use material that is not afraid of moisture.

The ideal material with which to insulate the ceiling should combine such characteristics as low moisture absorption, which prevents the accumulation of water in the thermal insulation layer, and high vapor permeability, i.e. the ability of a material to pass water vapor contained in the air. The ceiling with such a heater will simultaneously “breathe” and reliably protect against leaks, providing optimal indoor conditions.

Another important criterion is the thermal conductivity of the insulation. The lower the thermal conductivity of the material, the more efficient the insulation will work.

The most common mistake that many homeowners make when choosing insulation for their ceiling is choosing a material based on one parameter (for example, thermal conductivity or density). This is absolutely wrong, because. material must be selected taking into account all its mechanical and thermal characteristics.

The most important properties from the point of view of further operation are:

• thermal conductivity;
• compressive strength of the insulation (resistance to external loads);
• elasticity, elasticity (the ability of a material to deform and restore its original shape without collapsing);
• installation conditions.

In addition, the type of your roof also affects the choice of thermal insulation material. Roofs, as you know, are flat and pitched, unexploited and exploited. And for each type of roof you need a “own” insulation.

Not so long ago, the range of heaters was limited to expanded clay, glass wool and, perhaps, sawdust. Among private developers, clay was recognized.

Now such materials are also popular, however, they are competed with modern heaters used to protect the ceiling from the outside and inside the room. Some types of insulation are more expensive than traditional materials, however, the former are more effective in maintaining a favorable microclimate in the house.

About the variety of heaters

It is difficult to answer the question of which material is preferable to use. Some heat insulators are universal, used in interior and exterior work. Other heaters are in good contact with dissimilar surfaces, others are laid exclusively on the ceiling.

It is also important how easy the material will be installed, since the technology of its laying in a house under construction differs from the thermal insulation device in an already built building. We must not forget about the price range for heat insulators, the thickness of the floors, the climatic conditions in which the building will be operated, etc.

In addition, insulating materials must comply with regulatory requirements for environmental friendliness and fire resistance.

Although most of the heat loss in the house falls on the ceiling, you should not be limited to this area. It is desirable that the walls and floors of the structure also have reliable insulation.

Floor insulation options

Ceiling structures are divided into 3 types - beam, slab and monolithic.

A brick and cinder block house is equipped with one of these types of construction. Beam ceilings are wooden, which are the easiest to insulate. Overlappings of other types are concrete.

Of course, it is not always possible to insulate the ceiling. A similar situation is familiar to residents of apartment buildings, owners of garages and bathhouses, who insulate buildings from the inside, sacrificing space in the building. Some modern heat insulators allow you to work without a noticeable decrease in the height of the room.

traditional materials

Clay is a free raw material for insulation. Mixed with sawdust or straw, it has a low thermal conductivity.

Clay insulation is arranged over a wooden surface, between the beams. Under the layer of insulation must be a membrane that prevents the penetration of moisture. Clay is also placed on the concrete floor.

Sometimes cement, lime or sand is added to it. The disadvantages of clay include a long drying time. An alternative to such material is a mixture of sawdust with cement.

A popular insulation is expanded clay, but it is used solely for the purpose of insulating over the ceiling. Its advantages are lightness, fire resistance and excellent sound absorption. Expanded clay concrete is prepared from it, which serves as a material for pouring a monolithic floor slab.

Until recently, glass wool was a common insulation.

Today it is the cheapest heat insulator. The material is light and keeps warm, however, until it gets wet. However, this disadvantage is also inherent in other fibrous insulation, however, after drying, they restore properties, and glass wool becomes brittle.

It is used to insulate the ceiling from the outside (subject to reliable waterproofing), but laying work can turn into sheer flour due to irritation on the skin and mucous membranes, which is caused by crystals flying in all directions. Work with glass wool in tightly fastened overalls, gloves, eye and respiratory protection.

Modern heat insulators

Rock wool ceiling insulation is similar in appearance to fiberglass. Rolled heaters and basalt slabs are made from it.

Wet mineral wool loses its properties, but does not collapse. If you take the necessary measures to waterproof the insulation, it will properly perform its function for a long time. Mineral wool, like basalt slabs, is environmentally friendly and fire resistant, so it is used to insulate the ceiling inside the room.

Fibrous heat insulator is laid in the crate. Under the wooden covering is fixed with fasteners.

Beams will have to be installed under the concrete slab for mineral wool thermal insulation. The width of the heat insulator sheet must be greater than the distance between the crossbars, the thickness of the ceiling insulation must correspond to the width of the beam. There is no point in buying insulation thicker than beams.

The material will have to be crushed, then the porosity will become smaller, which will adversely affect its characteristics. Thin thermal insulation is arranged in several layers. Lightweight material will be securely held between the rungs and fixed with fasteners.

Often, when insulating surfaces, polyethylene foam is used. A thin heat insulator creates the effect of a thermos in the room.

The reason for this is not only the porous structure of the insulator. It is covered with a heat reflective film. Polyethylene foam foiling occurs one- and two-sided.

The material is fixed under the ceiling with glue, threaded fasteners or self-adhesive film. Roll thickness varies from 1 to 20 mm. Foiled polyethylene foam also does an excellent job of waterproofing.

Ecowool is one of the modern heat insulators, which is made from cellulose.

To improve performance, fire retardant and antiseptic are included in its composition. Nevertheless, cellulose insulation remains harmless to health. Ecowool is more resistant to moisture than other fibrous materials.

It is applied to the ceiling manually or using special equipment. Using a blowing machine, the surface is insulated with ecowool from the inside. In this case, an adhesive component is added to the insulation.

Polyurethane foam - the basis for mounting foam and for a heat insulator. The price of surface treatment with this material is quite high and it is better to entrust the insulation of the ceiling in this way to professionals. Polyurethane foam insulation is rarely used in private housing construction.

Foamed and extruded polystyrene foam are related materials. Both are sometimes referred to as Styrofoam.

However, they differ from each other. Foamed foam is less dense and more fire hazardous, has better characteristics in terms of heat and noise insulation, as well as environmental friendliness. However, it is not recommended to use any type of expanded polystyrene boards for the purpose of internal insulation in rooms with high temperatures (for example, in baths).

Under the ceiling, the plates are fixed with glue and threaded fasteners.

On a concrete surface, the extruded material serves as a solid foundation for flooring in the attic, attic, etc. It is better to lay the fragile foam over the ceiling in the crate.

Another version of polystyrene foam used to insulate ceilings is loose foam, produced in the form of small balls.

Stretch ceilings » Ceiling insulation

Ceiling insulation

To make your country house comfortable both in winter and in summer, you need to insulate the ceiling.

After all, as through doors and windows, a significant part of the heat escapes through it. Then the question naturally arises - which insulation for the ceiling is best to choose. After all, there are many materials, and each has its own way of laying.

Material, for example, can be placed from the side of the attic. Well, if there is no attic, then the only option is the thermal insulation of the ceiling from the inside of the room. Of course, this will reduce the height of the ceiling surface, so this method is most often combined with the installation of suspended or tension structures.

It is impossible to unequivocally answer the question of which insulation is better for the ceiling. After all, each situation requires its own material. And there are 5 types:

• Styrofoam.
• Polyplex.
• Expanded clay.

Let's dwell on each of them in more detail.

Varieties of material for thermal insulation of the ceiling

Let's start with the simplest.

Insulation, consisting of thin fibers, similar in composition to volcanic products.

This is a fibrous insulation, which is made from three raw materials:

• glass - glass wool
• volcanic rocks - basalt wool
• slag melted in blast furnaces - slag wool

It is produced in the form of rolls or a mat with a thickness of 20-200 millimeters. Not so long ago, an improved model appeared in which one side is covered with foil. This greatly increased its technical characteristics.

This is a brand new ceiling insulation. It is a polyethylene foam glued to aluminum foil. The thickness of the material varies in the range of 1.0-20 millimeters with a roll width of 1 meter.

Despite the small thickness, it is a very effective insulation. As a rule, it is installed in combination with other materials for insulation and protection from the negative effects of the environment.

Styrofoam

Penofol 2000 type B

This is a foamed cellular plastic mass, formed in the form of rectangles. More often it has the form of square plates with sides of 100 × 100 centimeters. At the same time, its thickness can vary from 20 to 100 millimeters.

When choosing foam, it is imperative to take into account its density, since this indicator is one of the main ones. For internal insulation of premises, foam plastic with a density of 15 kg / sq m or 25 kg / sq m is used. And the greater the density, the thinner the plates can be chosen.

By the way, foam sheets are sometimes laid under the leveling layers of solutions.

To do this, they are glued to the ceiling surface, followed by the application of plaster or putty mixtures. In general, foam plastic is an excellent insulation for floors and ceilings. Therefore, it is used quite often.

polyplex

Styrofoam is the most popular insulation

This material has been on the market for 10 ten years, and its popularity is growing every year. It is an extruded polystyrene produced by polymer extrusion technology.

Polyplex is produced in the form of sheets with dimensions of 120 × 60 centimeters and a thickness of 10-200 millimeters. And its density is 35 kg / sq m and 45 kg / sq m. It is the high density that provides high-quality thermal insulation of the ceiling surface.

In addition, polyplex sheets can be of different colors, as well as with or without a chamfer. The first option is better, because it is the chamfer that creates a snug fit of the insulation to the treated plane.

We will not talk much about expanded clay, because it can only be laid from the side of the attic. The only thing we note is that this material as a heater has excellent heat-insulating properties.

How to lay insulation on the ceiling from the inside of the room

Ideal solution and universal approach

Insulating ceilings from the inside is not an easy task. After all, to fix the material, you will have to use auxiliary devices.

The easiest option is to install a ceiling frame made of wooden bars or metal profiles. In this case, the distance between the frame elements can be different and depends on the type of insulation.

So, for example, mineral wool is placed in an interference fit, so its width should be slightly larger than the spacing between the rails.

This cannot be done with polystyrene, as it will simply begin to crumble and crack. It is usually laid in two ways - on glue or on direct suspensions.

Insulation under metal rails

The first option is the easiest. But the second will have to tinker.

To do this, mark the installation locations of the suspensions on the ceiling and on the foam sheets - after installation, they must match. It is through these two places that the insulation is attached. That is, the suspension is fixed to the ceiling itself and at the same time holds the foam sheets.

But with penoplex, it’s even easier. To mount it, you do not need to assemble the frame. Included with it are special plastic self-tapping screws in the form of fungi.

The sheet is installed on the ceiling and 2 through holes are drilled through it with a puncher at a certain distance from its ends. Then dowels are inserted into them and the sheet is fixed with mushroom-shaped screws. Everything is simple, convenient and very fast.

These are the materials for ceiling insulation that can be used today. Of course, the best option is to insulate the ceiling from above, for example, from the side of the attic.

This method is convenient, does not change the height of the room and allows the use of other heat-insulating materials. For example, the same expanded clay. However, it is not always available.

To make the room comfortable, care should be taken to insulate not only the walls, but also the floor and ceiling, which cause a loss of 20 to 40% of heat. This problem is easy to solve, thanks to a large selection of materials. But in order for the thermal insulation measures not to be in vain, it is necessary to determine what thickness of the insulation should be on the ceiling, based on the data on the thermal conductivity of the materials used in construction, the climatic features of the region and others.

Particularly effective in the performance of ceiling insulation are materials based on mineral wool, which, having high heat and sound insulation characteristics, also have other positive qualities, due to which their use in rooms, and above all, residential ones, is absolutely safe. This:

Ceiling insulation with mineral wool

• environmental friendliness of the material;
• the absence of toxic substances in the composition;
• high fire safety;
• preventing the appearance of condensate, and, as a result, the development of fungi, mold and other microorganisms;
• durability;
• light weight;
• a variety of types of mineral wool products, which are produced in the form of rolls, plates, and can also have a special foil layer, which simultaneously reduces thermal conductivity and protects the insulation from moisture.

Having given preference to Rockwool stone wool, it will be much easier to choose the appropriate material, since the product line of this manufacturer is quite wide and the corresponding product is used to perform the insulation of various building structures.

If work is to be done on the insulation of the ceiling, then you should pay attention to Light Butts and Ruf Butts.

How to correctly calculate the thickness of the insulation for the ceiling?

If, after taking measures for the thermal insulation of the ceiling structure, the result is not satisfactory, there is only one reason - the incorrectly selected thickness of the Rockwool Roof Butts insulation, whose characteristics are stable. Also, incorrectly processed joints with external walls, and the appearance of cold bridges due to errors in the installation of the frame, and other shortcomings will also necessarily affect.

Mineral wool boards

The thickness of the insulation must be calculated based on several indicators:

• coefficient of thermal conductivity of the insulation;
• the heat resistance of the ceiling, which is determined by two indicators: the thickness of the material and its thermal conductivity (in the event that different materials are used, their thermal conductivity indicators are summarized);
• calculated temperature indicators of the external and internal surfaces of the ceiling;
• design features;
• climate regulations.

The calculation is based on the value according to which the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material should be maximum 0.24 W / m² K, which corresponds to 10-20 cm of a layer of thermal insulation made of mineral wool. When choosing a heater, experts recommend focusing on a thermal conductivity equal to 0.04 W / m² K.

After the required thickness of the heat-insulating layer is determined, it is recommended to add 50% to this value - in this case, the effectiveness of using the selected type of insulation can be fully guaranteed.

Also, when calculating the thickness of the insulation, one should take into account the chosen option for carrying out thermal insulation work, which can be:

• internal;
• external;
• complex.

Of course, there is no choice in a city apartment, but in a private house with an attic space, the option of insulation from the outside, that is, the attic side, is often used. The complex option must be used in cases where it is necessary to achieve the maximum effect: it is used mainly in baths or saunas.

The positive effect of the installed thermal insulation layer on the ceiling is felt not only in the cold season, due to better heat retention, but also in summer, allowing you to create optimally comfortable living conditions, and in addition, ventilation and air conditioning costs will be significantly reduced.

The best insulation for the ceiling is guaranteed to be found in our company! Our experts are always ready to qualitatively and in time to carry out its installation!

Ceiling insulation in a private house: choice of materials and do-it-yourself installation

Insulation of the ceiling in a private house can significantly reduce the amount of heat loss during the cold period and significantly improve the microclimate in the premises in summer.

High-quality thermal insulation will give you, in addition to increasing comfort, tangible savings in the family budget for heating. The costs associated with the purchase of insulation will pay off in 2-3 years.

In addition to reducing the cost of heating a house, floor insulation solves a number of other problems. By preventing the entry of warm air into the attic, the insulating structure prevents the accumulation of water vapor and moisture in the under-roof space, which damage the rafters and floor beams.

In addition, insulation helps to avoid melting snow on the roof and the formation of large icicles, which are very dangerous during thaws. When organizing a living space in the attic, the soundproofing function is very useful. In any case, ceiling insulation is a necessary measure for a private house.

Carrying out work on the insulation of the ceiling is quite within the power of any home master.

Installation requires a minimum level of initial training of the performer. The tips below will help you avoid common mistakes and get the job done quickly and effortlessly. By carefully planning the workflow and preparing the necessary materials in the right quantity in time, you will save your time, nerves and transportation costs.

Let's consider in detail how to properly insulate the ceiling in a private house.

Where to insulate the ceiling: inside or outside

Insulation of the ceiling in a private house can be carried out both from the inside and outside. Both options give pretty good results. They differ in the materials used and the methods of their installation, so each master chooses the most convenient option for himself under specific living conditions, taking into account economic feasibility.

Attic floor insulation options

With an external version of insulation, thermal insulation is laid in the attic.

If the attic space is not used, then the insulation does not need decorative trim, which distinguishes this option from the previous one. In addition, it is much more convenient to work with external insulation.

Internal insulation involves fastening heat-insulating materials to the inner surface of the ceiling and mounting suspended structures made of drywall, plastic, wood, etc.

It should be borne in mind that with internal insulation, 15-20 cm of the height of the room is lost. Therefore, if your ceiling is at or below 2.5 m, then you should give preference to insulation from the attic.

Internal insulation is worth choosing if you are going to make repairs and plan to install a false ceiling. In all other cases, preference should be given to external insulation.

The choice of material for thermal insulation

The following heat-insulating materials are popular for warming private houses:

1. Styrofoam;
2. Styrofoam;
3. Penoizol;
4. polyurethane foam;
5. Penofol;
6. Mineral wool;
7. Basalt wool;
8. Ecowool;
9. Expanded clay;
10. Sawdust;
11. Vermiculite;
12. Dry grass, needles, reeds.

External insulation with foam or polystyrene foam is perhaps one of the cheapest and most affordable ways.

This task is quite easy to do on your own. The materials are resistant to moisture, do not rot, do not burn, but melt during a fire, releasing acrid poisonous smoke.

Expanded polystyrene essentially consists of the same material as polystyrene, only it is made in a slightly different way. The main disadvantages are the release of toxic phosgene gas during combustion and a relatively short service life (up to 10 years).

When using them, it is necessary to pay increased attention to fire safety.

Penoizol - liquid foam. Does not burn, vapor-permeable, biologically stable, superior to polystyrene in terms of thermal insulation properties. Manufacturers claim complete safety for humans after hardening. It is produced on site and laid using a special expensive installation, so the work is carried out only by specialized teams.

Convenient and cost effective for large volumes.

Similarly, work is carried out with polyurethane foam, which is synthesized from two liquid components. Depending on the proportion used, a polymer foam with different properties is obtained. The surface is covered with a continuous layer without joints, excluding the possibility of blowing cracks.

The disadvantage is that toxic substances are released during combustion.

The process of pouring penoizol

Penofol - foamed polyethylene, covered with aluminum foil.

Prevents the penetration of cold air, drafts and radon, reflects radiant heat into the room. The material is very light, does not create additional loads, works very well in combination with mineral wool.

Due to its small thickness, it almost does not affect the height of the room.

Mineral wool contains mainly natural materials: sand, rocks or melts. Available in rolls and sheets of various sizes.

It has good heat and sound insulation characteristics and an affordable price. It needs protection from moisture, as when wet it completely loses its thermal insulation properties. It is resistant to temperature extremes, restores its shape after a load, but becomes caked over time.

The material, unlike glass wool, almost does not prick, but still requires the presence of protective equipment during operation.

How to insulate the ceiling in a private house - instructions

The main disadvantage is the content of phenol, which can easily penetrate the human skin.

Basalt wool is made from molten rocks. Produced in the form of mats and plates. It is characterized by resistance to loads and high temperatures, hydrophobicity, elasticity. The material is able to pass water vapor and does not allow them to accumulate inside, does not shrink and can withstand operation up to 70 years without loss of quality.

Just like mineral wool, it contains phenolic binders, and the fibers can irritate the skin and mucous membranes.

When working indoors, cotton wool is usually used - mineral or basalt. These are vapor-permeable materials that allow the ceiling to "breathe".

Ecowool is a bulk material of natural origin, consisting of 80% cellulose with borate additives, which protect it from easy ignition and decay.

Laying work can be carried out wet using a special installation and dry manually. The manual method is extremely simple.

It is enough to pour cotton wool between the lags on a pre-laid glassine and loosen it slightly. Ecowool increases in volume by 2-3 times. The recommended layer thickness is 30 cm. Thermal conductivity is the same as that of mineral wool, while ecowool is not afraid of moisture, prevents the development of fungi and mold. Serves more than 100 years.

It is possible to use cheap local materials for insulation of the attic floor, such as expanded clay, sawdust, hay, needles, reeds, clay and slag.

Their cost is often only equal to the cost of delivery, but the thermal insulation properties are noticeably lower, and it is more difficult to lay them.

Sawdust before laying needs special protective treatment. Otherwise, they can be damaged by rodents, rot and ignite very easily. Hay is a tempting place for a variety of small bugs and insects to settle. For a noticeable thermal insulation effect, all bulk heaters require a significant thickness - from 30 cm, which leads to a strong load on the ceilings.

Good results are obtained by combining sawdust with vermiculite.

Both materials of natural origin, easily absorb moisture and easily give it away, maintaining optimal humidity. Vermiculite is made from hydromica and is considered an ideal bulk insulation with environmentally friendly properties. In terms of thermal conductivity, it is comparable to mineral wool. The only drawback of vermiculite is the price.

The laying of bulk insulation provides for their backfilling between the logs or bars of a specially made crate.

If the environmental friendliness of materials is fundamental for you, then you should opt for expanded clay or sawdust with vermiculite.

If high thermal insulation properties and ease of installation are important, basalt wool is your choice.

Warming with basalt wool: step by step

Let us consider in detail how to do external insulation with your own hands using one of the most effective heaters - basalt wool.

Necessary materials:

1. Basalt wool slabs 100 mm thick;
2. vapor barrier film;
3. Waterproofing film;
4. foil tape;
5. Wooden beam;
6. Hardware.

Instruments:

1. stapler;
2. Roulette;
3. Hacksaw or jigsaw;
4. Hammer;
5. Locksmith knife;
6. Screwdriver.

• Step 1.

  First of all, it is necessary to perform a thorough cleaning in the attic and create a flat surface for laying stone wool.

• Step 2. If the attic is planned to be residential, then a wooden frame is laid for the future floor. The step between the lags is determined in accordance with the width of the insulation boards in order to ensure the tightest possible fit.

In the presence of wooden floor beams, the insulation is placed in the space between them.

In case of insufficient height, additional bars are attached from above.

If the attic will not be operated, then this item can be skipped.

The height of the insulation depends on the climatic features of the area and the design of the roof.

In most cases, it is optimal to use two layers of basalt wool 100 mm thick.

• Step 3. The vapor barrier film is laid. If the floor is reinforced concrete, then this item can be skipped, since it has low vapor permeability.

Fastening to floor beams or logs is carried out using a construction stapler with wrapping edges. In new construction, the film is laid under the beams. The sheets overlap by 150 - 200 mm, are fastened with moisture-resistant adhesive tape and must be wound onto the walls by at least 200 mm to guarantee the prevention of moisture penetration.

The best option is to use foil material. In this case, the sheets are placed end-to-end with the foil down and glued with special adhesive tape.

Beams and logs are not covered with a vapor barrier film in order to avoid the accumulation of moisture in them and rapid decay.

• Step 4

  Sheets of basalt wool are laid on the vapor barrier film, avoiding gaps at the joints if possible. Gaps of 2-3 cm are left near the walls, which are not closed to ventilate the cotton wool.

• Step 5. The second layer is laid with the maximum displacement of the seams. In cold climates, a third layer will not be superfluous. It is laid across the previous ones and eliminates all potential cold bridges.

For an attic floor that will not be used, you can stop there (unless, of course, the roof is leaking), or you can play it safe by following the recommendations of the next paragraph.

• Step 6

  A waterproofing film is laid to protect the wool from moisture ingress from above during operation.

• Step 7. The structure is mounted to move around the attic.

For a residential attic, boards are laid and, if necessary, a finish coat; for a non-residential attic, it is enough to provide walkways for walking during technical inspection and maintenance of the roof.

Work is best done in the warm season - in summer or early autumn.

For external insulation, it is better to take vapor-tight materials to protect the ceiling from moisture, for internal - vapor-permeable.

The more air the insulation contains, the more effective it is, so we must strive to ensure maximum "fluffiness" for materials such as mineral wool, ecowool, sawdust.

External insulation will always be cheaper and easier to perform.

With internal insulation of the ceiling and the use of some models of built-in ceiling lamps, the bulbs may often burn out due to the lack of heat removal.

In this case, it is better to hang an ordinary traditional chandelier.

For vapor barrier, only a special film with the appropriate marking or glassine can be used; ordinary polyethylene cannot be used.

Penofol is always stacked with foil down.

You can perform complex insulation by combining different heaters.

When performing insulation with basalt wool, it is necessary to use a mask and protective clothing that completely covers the body.

Before starting work, you should carefully study the advantages and disadvantages of all available thermal insulation materials, analyze their operational capabilities, evaluate the costs and complexity of installation.

Making a carefully considered decision and installing thermal insulation, taking into account the above recommendations, guarantees a safe and effectively insulated ceiling in a private house.

How to insulate the ceiling and attic floor

In the construction of the house there is an important phase insulating ceiling. This question was met by both owners of private buildings and residents of multi-storey buildings.

To select a material or technology for thermal insulation of a ceiling, it is necessary to understand what characteristics are needed for insulation. Ceiling insulation must be reliable and durable in accordance with environmental standards, which can last quite a long time and are fire resistant.

An important requirement for insulating materials is their thermal conductivity, which makes it impossible to keep cold in winter and hot in summer.

Along with the above characteristics, an important parameter still has the moisture resistance of the material.

In multi-storey buildings, there are often cases of flooding of neighbors. In this case, if the thermal insulation material is not moist enough, it swells and loses thermal conductivity. Because the choice of insulation must be made very carefully so that it meets all its functions of its functions.

What if the ceiling gets hot?

It should be noted that building materials such as mineral wool, sawdust, expanded clay and slag were often used with the use of an insulating ceiling. The use of certain materials should be related to climatic zones.

Thus, at -15 / -35 degrees, a heater with a thickness of 60-100 mm is the best option. At lower temperatures, expanded clay is generally used, and slag is also excellent.

In this case, you must keep in mind that if you live in a high-rise building on the top floor, then you do not fit into the materials.

Since these houses are very active community workers in the attic, this material can be smoothed out or simply moved around, which creates an imbalance in the uniform thermal insulation of the ceiling.

The main purpose of this layer is to prevent moisture from entering the insulation.

The best option would be laying - a material for vapor barrier wood.

Ceiling heating: principles and characteristics, materials, work technology

In addition, dry, non-slip insulation can be used, and at the same time it has several ventilation holes so that the material can breathe.

The cheapest and easiest way to insulate a ceiling in a house is mineral wool. In addition to insulation material, you will also need waterproofing materials, foam, and building foam.

As a heater, mineral wool is excellent because it does not absorb moisture and does not burn. In addition, mineral wool is a cheap material. The first thing you need to do with ceiling insulation is to install a waterproofing layer.

Here you can choose rabies.

It is cut into strips with a knife and placed on the ceiling between the beams. The width of the ribbon is 5 cm wider than the distance between the beams, so that the parchment can be attached to them. Then apply a layer of foam.

Its plates are also cut to the width of the distance between the beams, so that the foamed plates are in contact with the beams.

You can make a small gap between the tablets and then pour the foam. And again a layer of parchment was made. Then go directly to the heater.

Layers of mineral wool are placed on the upper edge of the beams, sometimes two layers are formed, in which case the thermal insulation will be better.

The top layer is laid in such a way that the joints of the mineral wool overlap the joints of the first, i.e., in sequential order. Plywood can be spread over the heater.

Today, there are many different heaters on the building materials market, so everyone can choose what they need.

Most importantly, we spare no expense and time at all on ceiling insulation, as you can save a lot on heating costs.

How to insulate the ceiling from the attic in a private house

Foreword. In order to keep warm in a private house, it is necessary to carry out a set of works on thermal insulation of all structures.

Measures for thermal insulation of the ceiling from the side of the attic can be performed in several ways, it all depends on the type of ceiling slabs. The ceiling insulation technology involves two options - outside and inside the room, we will consider the thermal insulation of the ceiling from the attic side and show a video on this topic.

About 15% of heat loss occurs precisely through the ceiling, so it is necessary to insulate the ceiling from the attic side for the winter with high quality.

But, before starting work, it is necessary to correctly select the heat-insulating material and familiarize yourself with the technology of work. This article will focus on events in a private house, while self-insulation of the ceiling of the apartment is performed in a similar way.

Ways to insulate the ceiling in a private house

When choosing between insulating the ceiling from the outside or from the inside of the room, several factors are taken into account.

The insulation of the ceiling in the apartment is carried out from the side of the warm room, since the insulation from the outside affects the common house area. In apartment buildings, the installation of insulation increases the sound insulation of the interfloor floors of the apartment.

A photo. Ceiling insulation from the attic

In a private house, the method of carrying out work is not limited by anything.

The most correct option for thermal insulation of the ceiling is to carry out work outside, i.e. from the side of a cold attic in a private house. In this case, the entire floor structure is protected from freezing, which increases its service life. In addition, the insulation of floors from the side of the attic does not reduce the height of the room in the house.

Carrying out work from the attic does not require effort when fixing the insulation on the ceiling from below.

In addition, no additional finishing of the premises is required. When choosing a heater for this method, the strength of the material is not important, as is the thermal conductivity. Mineral wool mats with low density are best suited for these purposes for warming horizontal surfaces.

How to insulate the ceiling from the attic

A photo. Insulation of the attic of a private house from the outside

Consider how to insulate the ceiling from the side of the attic with your own hands.

To begin with, the attic space is cleared of debris, the insulation must be laid on a clean and even base. Next, calculate the required amount of thermal insulation material. If you chose basalt wool to protect this structure, then a layer of rolled hydro-vapor barrier is laid from the side of the warm room.

The heat insulator is placed between the lags and covered with a wind and moisture protective film, which will prevent the insulation from getting wet.

The presence of a rough flooring from the floorboards will allow you to freely walk around the attic and store various rubbish in this room. Next, we will study the advantages and disadvantages of each material in order to make the right choice of insulation to protect attic floors in a private house.

The choice of material for thermal insulation of the ceiling

Ecowool is a loose heat-insulating material, consisting of 80% recycled cellulose and 20% flame retardants and antiseptics (minerals and boric acid).

Ecowool retains heat well, the thermal conductivity coefficient is about 0.041 watts per meter per degree Celsius. Thanks to the application technology in the attic, a solid coating is created without "cold bridges" in the ceilings.

mineral wool.

To the class of mineral wool, builders include: stone wool, fiber from slag and fiberglass. Fiberglass consists of fibers up to 50 mm long and up to 15 microns thick. Glass wool mats and rolls are resilient and durable. Work with this material should be extremely careful, because. glass threads can dig into the skin, injure mucous membranes, hitting the eyes or lungs.

Mineral wool should be protected with vapor barrier films.

Extruded polystyrene foam. The advantages of Technoplex thermal insulation in resistance to moisture and the absence of shrinkage during operation, unlike P-75 mineral wool or glass wool. The material does not lose the characteristics declared by the manufacturer even at 100% humidity, and the absence of formaldehyde in the composition of the insulation guarantees environmental safety for humans.

At the same time, the material is quite durable and lightweight.

Foamed polyethylene.

The thermal conductivity of Penofol is difficult to compare with traditional, for example, mineral heat insulators, since foil Penofol is a combined material. Insulation with Penofol helps to reduce heat loss in the room due to foamed polyethylene, and the metallized layer can reflect up to 97% of infrared radiation.

At the same time, the material is available at a price.

Video. Ceiling insulation from the attic

Warming of a wooden house

Insulation of a wooden house: how to insulate the ceiling from the attic

You can insulate a wooden ceiling from different sides. We examined the features of insulation from the inside in a previous publication. Now let's look at how the ceiling insulation of a wooden house takes place from the side of the attic.

In this case, the insulation is located in the attic.

And it is much easier to insulate a wooden house from the attic than to insulate the ceiling from the side of the rooms. Why?

There are several reasons:

• You can choose a variety of insulation;
• Installation of insulation is not so time-consuming and complicated.

Materials for insulation

This is the most economical and affordable way.

You can buy sawdust at any furniture factory, but in this case it is impossible to get good sound insulation.

This material has good performance properties. The fact that it is harmful to health can be ignored, since the material will be located in the attic, far from the residential area. The cost of mineral wool is in a reasonable price range, it protects well against insects and rodents, does not rot and contributes to good sound insulation of the house.

This is a high quality material, but at the same time it costs an order of magnitude more expensive.

Polyurethane foam consists of small layers of foam that increase the sound insulation and thermal insulation of the log house. Individual sheets of material can be mounted independently, while filling with polyurethane foam requires contacting professionals.

Stages of insulation

1. Cleaning the attic space from debris and other things.
2. Laying a vapor barrier film that will protect the insulation from moisture and protect it from condensation.
3. Preliminary lathing, which will greatly simplify the installation of any material.

   Also, the crate will allow you to lay the material tightly and without cracks, which is very important for high-quality insulation.

4. Installation of the heater itself. In the case of a roll product, work will go faster than when working with individual sheets.

   It is necessary to lay the insulation very tightly between the slats, which will allow to obtain the maximum density of the arrangement.

5. Finishing work. This stage is controversial - some homeowners believe that if the attic is not subsequently used, then finishing can be dispensed with. Others are of the opinion that the attic space can then be usefully used, so they prefer to finish the attic floor.

Finishing material

A good option is a thick MDF panel.

This material can withstand human, good performance and long service life. In addition, you can buy panels inexpensively.

• If the log house is located in a region with a cold climate, you can use a mixed type of insulation.

  That is, it is possible to insulate the ceiling both from the side of the attic and from the side of the rooms. In this case, one layer of vapor barrier will suffice.

• When choosing a material for insulation, be guided not only by its cost, but also by its quality.

  Higher quality material will provide reliable and durable insulation of a wooden house. Always take into account the ability of the material to create sound insulation.

You can also insulate a wooden ceiling on your own, but only the work of specialists is a guarantee of quality. In the case of attracting specialists, you will receive effective and durable ceiling insulation, while the work of amateurs may need an expensive rework.

You can learn about wall insulation in a wooden house in the section WARMING OF A WOODEN HOUSE .

The technology for creating a roofing system is presented in the section ROOFING.

When it comes to warming the house, for some reason the ceiling is not included in the repair estimate, and the overall climate in the house directly depends on its condition.

According to the laws of physics, warm air always rises and gives up its energy to the roof, causing the snow to melt.

Thus, heating costs can increase by 30% minimum.

To minimize costs, you need to take care of the insulation of the attic floor, as well as the roof itself.

What materials can be used

Basically, three types of insulation are used:

One or more options are selected from this list. Working with expanded clay and mineral wool does not require special building skills, and in order to insulate the attic with polyurethane foam, it is better to call specialists.

Working with this material requires special knowledge and skills.

The advantages of polyurethane foam in the insulation of the ceiling from the attic

Thanks to this approach, all sorts of flaws and irregularities are well closed, and as a result an even layer is created. The advantages of polyurethane foam come down to quick curing and excellent moisture retention.

Even the thinnest layer of insulation is able to perfectly retain heat.

The low dead weight does not deform the treated surface when applying several layers, and the material is also resistant to fungi and mold.

Rodents are also not a threat.

Polyurethane foam is a non-combustible insulation, so the issue of fire danger is removed.

This material can be used to treat both the attic floor and the surfaces under the roof.

How to make ceiling insulation in a private house

Resistance to moisture and temperature changes will allow you to close this issue for several decades. Polyurethane foam does not need additional protection with foil or film as a waterproofing. Fibrous heaters are subject to this.

As a result, processing the ceiling from the attic side will allow not only to keep the heat in the house and reduce heating costs, but also to create a kind of utility room or even living space on the “second floor”.

Attic floor insulation with mineral wool

This insulation is created from rocks such as basalt.

The composition of cotton wool consists of small fibers that fit snugly together and can be used to cover the floor in the attic.

For high-quality work, waterproofing is necessary with a film or foil so that moisture does not penetrate through the cracks. If the insulation gets wet, it will immediately lose its initial properties.

Laying mineral wool does not involve great difficulties.

Various options are common on sale and the main ones are rolls or plates. When buying, check the integrity of the package. If there are defects, the insulation may be damaged, which will seriously affect its properties.

Before work, a wooden crate is made, a waterproofing layer is laid, mineral wool slabs are distributed.

If there are already beams on the ceiling from the attic side, you can lay insulation between them. The joints between the plates (rolls) must be sealed with special adhesive tape. The height difference between the beam and the mineral wool layer should be kept to a minimum to reduce the possibility of warm air passing through. If one layer is not enough, it is better to lay several and make sure that the beams are covered.

Upon completion of all work on top of the mineral wool, it is advisable to make a floor covering if you walk in the attic.

Because the deformation of the insulation due to walking will reduce all heat-insulating properties to zero.

Working with expanded clay

1. Low thermal conductivity.
2. Light weight.
3. Environmentally friendly material.
4. Does not burn.
5. Does not collapse from low temperatures.
6. Durable.

To insulate the ceiling from the attic side with expanded clay, it is enough just to sprinkle the surface with this material on a pre-laid vapor-proof layer.

It is also advisable to use such a heater in attics with pipes. The mixture is able to completely fill all the gaps, which cannot be said about mineral wool.

On top of the insulation, you can make a cement screed and lay a laminate (linoleum).

Styrofoam - the easiest way to insulate

To use foam plastic as a ceiling insulation from the attic side, you just need to purchase the right size slabs and lay it between the beams or wooden crate.

Despite the advantages of this method, there is one significant drawback - easy flammability.

Therefore, before making a choice in favor of polystyrene, it is better to think it over again and, possibly, pay attention to the same expanded clay.

Outcome

Each material for ceiling insulation has certain thermal conductivity properties, the calculation of which for each house is carried out individually. Therefore, this stage should be entrusted to specialists. Based on the data obtained, the material is then selected and its installation in the attic.

The use of expanded clay and mineral wool does not require special building knowledge, but work with polyurethane foam should be performed by specialized workers.

Thus, after insulation in the attic, you can organize it as an additional room for storing household items or equip a small living room.

But this is up to you.

Content

In the context of the constant rise in the cost of energy carriers, for any homeowner, the issue of reducing heat loss through building envelopes: walls, floor, ceiling, is acute. And if most owners pay increased attention to the insulation of external walls, then, as a rule, it never comes to holding such events with ceilings. In this publication, we will consider in as much detail as possible the question of how to insulate the ceiling in a private house with common materials.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling in a private house

Why insulate the ceiling?

Many of our compatriots ask a reasonable question: why insulate the ceiling if the attic is made in accordance with all the rules for maintaining heat inside the room? Consider the two most common reasons for insulating the ceiling in the house.

1. The problem is that "all the rules" include the organization of competent air exchange in space, between the roof and the ceiling. In winter, the influx of fresh air into the attic will ensure a drop in the temperature of the ceilings by 3-5 ° C compared to the air temperature in the heated room. When warm and humid updrafts meet a colder surface (in this case, the ceiling), condensation is inevitable.
2. When creating an autonomous heating system for a house (specifically, when selecting the power and number of radiators), the calculation of heat losses is mandatory. As practice has shown, heat loss through the ceiling is about 15% of the total heat loss at home. As a result, to cover them, additional power of the boiler plant and a larger number of heating devices are required, which leads to unplanned energy costs.

Conclusion: if the insulation of the ceiling in the house was not carried out or was done illiterately, we can expect moistening of the ceiling and an increase in heating costs.

Features of ceiling insulation in the room and in the attic

Before proceeding to the consideration of measures for thermal insulation of the ceiling of a private house, we will deal with the problems that should be solved at the stage of choosing the method of insulation and materials.

1. The choice of material. If the chimney passes through the ceiling and the attic, then for the thermal insulation of the ceiling, (at a distance of at least one meter from the chimney), materials with maximum fire resistance must be used.
2. Insulation - a home for rodents. This is a common problem that is solved by choosing the “right insulation”, various folk remedies and special chemicals.

Vapor barrier membrane

In a private house, the insulation of the ceiling from the side of the room is associated with the protection of the ceiling and the material from moisture, which is inevitably present in the air. The vapor barrier membrane (film) solves the problem.

Thermal insulation technology

Regardless of the materials used, insulation technology consists of three main stages:

• ceiling preparation;
• performance of work from the side of the cold attic;
• work from the premises.

Since the process of warming a private house is not limited by the “capture” of the common house territory (attic), the homeowner can choose any of the two existing methods: from the side of the room or from the side of the roof.

ceiling insulation technology

The first method has the following disadvantages:

• the height of the room decreases;
• fastening the material to the ceiling is quite difficult;
• it is necessary to change the interior decoration of the ceiling after insulation.

When carrying out activities from the attic, the homeowner does not face these problems. In addition, the structure of the floors is strengthened, which significantly increases their service life. Next, we will consider the procedure for performing work in more detail using the example of thermal insulation of the ceiling of a wooden house from the side of the room and the attic.

Warming from the inside

Internal thermal insulation of the ceiling

The choice of this method includes:

1. Cover preparation. Its surface should be cleaned of dust and treated with an antiseptic. If the ceiling is wooden, you need to cover it with a fire-retardant primer.
2. Calculation and cutting of material.
3. Creation and fastening of a frame from a wooden beam or a metal profile.
4. Laying insulation between the guides and attaching it to the frame or directly to the floor surface.
5. Vapor barrier fastening. The film is fixed to the frame using a construction stapler.

6. Important! The membrane is fastened in such a way that the edges of adjacent strips form an overlap of at least 10 cm. To ensure the tightness of the joints, it is recommended to glue the joints with adhesive tape or masking tape.

7. Creating a counter-batten that performs two important functions:
   • provides a ventilation gap between the finishing material and the surface of the membrane, which will help remove moisture from the space;
   • plays the role of a frame to which the finishing material will be attached in the future.
8. Hemming the ceiling with plywood, drywall sheets, lath or other finishing material.

Warming outside

When choosing this method, you must first determine the type of insulation. Below, we will consider the characteristics of the most common materials that are used to reduce heat loss through the ceiling of a house.

Insulation of the ceiling from the outside

To do the work yourself, you will need:

• Prepare the ceiling, clear the attic of debris.
• Take measurements of the floor area for a competent calculation of the amount of insulation.

Important! If it is intended to use a low-strength insulation, then logs made of a metal profile or a wooden beam should be installed on the ceiling. If it is intended to use a material with high strength, then it is allowed to lay it directly under the reinforced screed.

• Lay a layer of vapor barrier.
• Install thermal insulation material.
• Lay a waterproofing layer.

• Note! Most technologies assume the presence of a waterproofing layer as a protection of the insulation from moisture. Experts recommend paying more attention to the waterproofing of the attic. Applying waterproofing without vapor barrier can provoke the appearance of mold and the spread of fungal infection inside the material.

• Lay a finished floor over a layer of insulation.

The choice of insulation

When carrying out these activities, any homeowner must solve two questions: how to properly perform thermal protection work, and how to insulate the ceiling. To choose a good material, you need to pay attention to the following criteria:

• it must be completely safe for health;
• non-combustible, resistant to fire for 25 minutes of direct exposure to fire;
• do not interfere with the natural circulation of steam in the room.

Types of insulation

Today the market offers a lot of solutions that meet these criteria. Consider the characteristics of the most common materials and the features of working with them.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is a porous heat-insulating material in the form of baked clay granules 1–3 cm in diameter. It does not burn or melt. Due to its natural composition, when heated, it does not emit harmful substances into the atmosphere. It is used for external insulation of strong ceilings, in the design of which support beams are provided. Thermal conductivity - 0.18 W / m / K. The scheme of thermal insulation of the ceiling of the house is as follows:

• creating a layer of vapor barrier;
• backfilling of expanded clay between beams or guides of the supporting frame with a layer of at least 200 mm;
• leveling the layer of expanded clay, shrinkage of the material;
• covering expanded clay with a second layer of vapor barrier;
• creation of a finishing floor from sheet or lath materials.

Expanded clay as thermal insulation

The use of expanded clay is justified due to the relatively low cost of the material. The main disadvantage is the rather high thermal conductivity and the possible appearance (due to the structural features of the material) of "cold bridges". On the market you can find a good alternative to expanded clay - foam crumb. When using this material as a ceiling insulation, you can achieve a better effect with a smaller layer thickness, since its thermal conductivity is lower than that of expanded clay.

Sawdust

Sawdust is another bulk insulation that was widely used even before the appearance of such popular materials as polystyrene, eco- and mineral wool. The main advantage of the material is its availability and low cost. You can buy sawdust at a "similar" price at the nearest wood processing plant, lumberyard or construction site.

The material has a lot of shortcomings, among which the most significant are:

• the almost complete absence of any fire resistance, the percentage of which can be increased by introducing a certain amount of lime-cement mortar into the sawdust;
• a high percentage of shrinkage, which leads to a decrease in thermal insulation qualities;
• susceptibility to decay, which makes such a heater a "hotbed" of fungi and mold;
• good moisture absorption.

sawdust insulation

Well, as a “final chord”: rodents and insects feel great in sawdust. You can get rid of them only by using special impregnations and chemically active compounds. The technology for working with sawdust is as follows:

1. A mixture of sawdust, lime and cement is made in a ratio of 10:1:1.
2. Depending on the moisture content of the raw material, 5 to 10 parts of water are added to the mixture. The resulting solution is thoroughly mixed with the addition of 10 grams of copper sulfate, which plays the role of an antiseptic.
3. Work is underway to prepare the floor. Cleaning of debris and dust, treatment of beams (bearing frame) with fire-resistant soil and antibacterial agent.
4. The floor is lined with a vapor barrier membrane.
5. The frame (the space between the beams or lags) is filled with the composition, leveled. It takes 7 to 14 days to dry completely.

It should be noted that during the drying process, cracks may appear in such a heater. Their presence will lead to the appearance of "cold bridges", which will nullify all efforts to reduce the heat loss of the insulated ceiling. Cracks need to be sealed with the same composition.

Ecowool

Ecowool is a fairly popular and environmentally friendly insulation, which consists of natural cellulose and additives that prevent burning, decay, reduce moisture absorption, and give plasticity and stickiness to the fiber structure. The thermal conductivity of the material is 0.038 W/m/K. There are two ways to insulate with ecowool:

• dry, meaning the laying of material between beams or lags;
• wet, when the fiber is mixed with water and applied to the surface under pressure using a special installation.

Dry way of laying ecowool

It is the second method that is considered the highest quality, revealing the full potential of this material. Wet technology requires special equipment and experience in carrying out such work, which makes it quite difficult to independently insulate the ceiling of a private house. Ecowool application technology consists of the following steps:

1. The necessary procedures are carried out to prepare the floor (cleaning, treatment with antiseptics).
2. A frame is created from a bar or a metal profile.
3. The necessary layer of vapor barrier membrane is laid.
4. With the help of the installation, the space between the wooden structures is filled with a composition, with a layer of 250 to 500 mm.
5. Waterproofing installation.
6. Finished flooring.

In this case, a waterproofing layer is required, since ecowool perfectly absorbs moisture, even from the air.

Styrofoam

Styrofoam is one of the most popular heaters. This is a sheet material made from compressed polymer balls filled with air. The main advantages of foam: affordable cost, low weight, ease of installation, the possibility of long-term storage, extremely low thermal conductivity with an average of 0.041 W / m / K. Despite such a number of advantages, the foam has several disadvantages:

• lit;
• melting point +60… +80 °С;
• has low vapor permeability.

One of the most significant disadvantages of using foam as a heater is the release of hazardous substances during combustion and melting. Despite the abundance of shortcomings, foam is widely used for thermal insulation of ceilings. There are two ways of fastening sheets: on glue and laying in a frame.

Attaching foam to glue

In the first case, tile adhesive is applied to the workpiece, which firmly glues the foam sheet to the prepared floor surface. Next, a protective layer is created from a reinforced polymer mesh and a sand-cement mortar.

In the second case, when choosing a frame technology, work is carried out to prepare the floor surface, create a frame, and lay prepared foam sheets in the cells.

Important! To eliminate heat loss and possible displacement of foam sheets, a layer of sealant is applied to the side surfaces of each workpiece, which will securely fix the insulation in space and eliminate the appearance of “cold bridges”.

Penoizol

Penoizol is a liquid polymer material, which in its properties is fully consistent with foam, but is spared from its main drawback - the lack of fire resistance. It is non-flammable and has a low thermal conductivity. The main disadvantage of this material is the method of application, which requires the availability of special equipment and trained personnel.

Application of penoizol

The technology of working with penoizol is not original:

1. Wooden structures are treated with antiseptic and fire-resistant compounds.
2. The space between the beams is lined with a vapor barrier membrane.
3. With the help of a special installation, the composition is poured into the space, creating a dense layer of insulation 300 mm thick.

After drying, work is carried out on laying waterproofing and creating a finishing floor. Self-application of penoizol (without skills and special equipment) is extremely difficult, which makes its use less popular among domestic consumers.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is a fibrous heat-insulating material, which, according to GOST, has three varieties:

• Glass wool. Made from glass fibre. Thermal conductivity, depending on the thickness of the material, varies from 0.03 to 0.052 W/m/K. Such a heat insulator withstands temperatures from +450 ° C to -60 ° C. The main disadvantage is the high risk of working with glass fiber.
• Slag. The fiber is produced from blast-furnace slag. Thermal conductivity from 0.46 to 0.48 W/m/K. The heating limit does not exceed +300 °С. Disadvantages: high hygroscopicity, aggressive effect of wet material on metal surfaces.
• Stone wool. Fibrous heat insulator with thermal conductivity ranging from 0.077 to 0.12 W/m/K. Stone wool contains mineral and binder components, which make it less hygroscopic, but more hazardous to health due to the release of phenol when heated.

Laying of mineral wool boards

The most demanded material is one of the types of stone wool - basalt wool. This plastic fiber heat insulator does not contain any binding components, withstands heating up to +1000 °C and cooling down to -200 °C. The material can be bought in rolls, sheets and crumbs. Stone wool laying technology:

1. Floor preparation (cleaning, processing with compounds).
2. Calculation of quantity and cutting of material. Recall that to obtain data on the surface area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe floor, you need to multiply its length by its width.
3. Vapor barrier installation. Each subsequent roll is laid on the previous one with an overlap of 10 cm. To fix the material together, use adhesive tape.
4. Creation of a frame (crate). It should be noted that the width between the guides should be less than the width of the insulation by 10–20 mm. The height of the beam should be 20 mm more than the thickness of the insulation. This gap will act as a ventilation gap.
5. Laying sheets of mineral wool in the prepared space of the crate.
6. Fastening waterproofing to the frame of the crate.

The last step in the process of warming with mineral wool is laying the finished floor on the crate. To do this, it is recommended to use a grooved floor board, OSB sheets, chipboard, or plywood, at least 16 mm thick.

Foil insulation

This is a roll material made of foamed polymer with a layer of aluminum foil or metallized film welded to it. The main advantages of a foil heat insulator are:

• ability to reflect up to 95% of IR radiation;
• it is hydro and noise insulation at the same time;
• low coefficient of thermal conductivity;
• lack of moisture absorption;
• durability;
• ease of installation.

Foil insulation attachment

Foil polymer insulation is used to insulate the ceiling both from the side of the attic and from the side of the room. If it is used together with other heat insulators, then the foil polymer will play the role of a vapor barrier and prevent the "leakage" of thermal energy, due to the reflective abilities of the metal layer. The technology of laying the material on the inside of the room is simple:

1. Prepare the crate of the lath on the surface of the ceiling.
2. Secure the material with the pressure rail so that the foil faces the inside of the room.
3. Lay sheets of drywall on top of the material as a facing material.

The high thermal insulation characteristics of foil polymers have prompted many manufacturers to produce mineral wool insulation with a layer of metal foil as a reflector of thermal energy.

Clay

Clay mortar is a natural building material that is used as a heat insulator. After drying, the clay turns into a hard shell that is not affected by high temperatures, resistant to high humidity and perfectly accumulates heat.

To create an effective heat-insulating layer, the thickness of the clay coating must be at least 100 mm, which makes it an extremely heavy heat insulator. To reduce the weight, it is usually not used in its pure form. A composition is made with the addition of sawdust, straw and other natural materials. Clay, as a heater, has the following advantages:

• availability;
• does not burn, and does not smolder;
• is not home to rodents and insects;
• environmentally friendly material.

Clay mixed with sawdust

Despite a lot of advantages, the use of clay as a heat insulator also has disadvantages: the kneading process is rather laborious, takes a long time to dry, has a large mass and low efficiency compared to most modern materials. Clay mortar thermal insulation technology is not very complicated:

1. Prepare the floor surface from the attic side. Clean it of items that could damage the waterproofing.
2. Mix the solution. The proportions vary depending on the components, the "fat content" and the type of clay, the amount of moisture.
3. Lay a layer of waterproofing between the beams.
4. Fill the space with mortar, with a layer of at least 100 mm, level the surface.

After drying, the surface does not require finishing, as the clay mortar acquires the necessary strength and rigidity.

Advice! If beams with a height of 150 mm or more are used in the ceiling, then to reduce the pressure of clay on the filing, it is allowed to create a “puff cake”: 50 mm of prepared mortar; a layer of compacted sawdust 50 mm; solution 50 mm.

A few words about the thickness of the heat-insulating material. The choice of the thickness of the insulation layer depends on the thermal resistance of the floor, the material used, the thickness of the ceiling, etc. An online calculator and a map with normalized values ​​​​depending on the region of residence will help you perform these calculations on your own.

Map of normalized thermal resistance. For calculations, use the values ​​marked in blue.

Conclusion on the topic

How to make reliable thermal insulation of the house from the attic side, and what materials are best suited for this? The answer is obvious: all bulk heat insulators, some types of mineral wool, clay and its derivatives, penoizol and ecowool. Styrofoam and foamed foil polymers are most suitable for insulating the ceiling from the side of the room.

Taking into account all the advantages and disadvantages of the considered materials, it is better to insulate the ceiling of a private house with basalt wool from the attic side. It has a relatively low cost, is environmentally friendly and fireproof, it is easy to work with even a novice builder. If insulation is planned from the side of the room, then foil polyethylene is the easiest to install and effective insulation.

An uninsulated attic floor is one of the most vulnerable building structures in relation to heat loss. Through it, from 20 to 40% of the thermal energy needed by the residents easily "disappears" into the atmosphere.

The percentage of losses depends on the material used in the construction of the truss frame, and on the type of roofing used in the arrangement of the roof.

Insulation of the ceiling in a house with a cold roof will significantly reduce heat loss. We will talk about how thermal insulation works are carried out.

We list in detail what materials will be required for the implementation of activities. Taking into account our recommendations, you can significantly increase the energy efficiency of the building.

The ceiling is insulated if a non-residential attic is located above it, respectively, not equipped with thermal insulation.

It is not used as a living space in winter, therefore, it does not need to lay a layer of insulation on the slopes. Often this is just a warehouse for inventory and a room for drying mushrooms / berries.

The non-residential attic itself plays the role of an air chamber that prevents the movement of heat waves both inside the building and out. However, to dry the wooden elements of the frame structure, roofing, metal fasteners, a cold attic is usually equipped with effective ventilation.

Ventilate it naturally, i.e. regular ventilation without the use of any mechanisms. The system operates without coercion. Air moves due to the difference in temperature with pressure outside the attic and inside it.

The air flow enters the attic space through the dormer windows in the summer and the gaps framing them in the winter, when a rarefaction forms inside. It is removed spontaneously, displaced by a new portion coming from the street.

For building structures, constant air circulation is really necessary. But along with the continuously moving air masses, heat is blown out of the attic. As a result, instead of saving it to save energy resources, additional costs are obtained.

How to deal with them? Be sure to warm up! Warming is carried out in two standard ways, these are:

• Thermal insulation device on the ceiling from above. Those. from the side of the attic, foamed polymer slabs, mineral wool are placed on the reinforced concrete floor or between wooden logs, expanded clay or folk remedies (sawdust, dry foliage, etc.) are poured.
• Installation of slab insulation from the inside of the premises. Simply put, fixing polystyrene plates from the side of the premises to the lower plane of the ceiling.

In both cases, the insulation layer increases along the perimeter, i.e. along the line of joining the ceiling and the adjacent wall. Strengthening is required here due to increased heat loss. A vapor barrier membrane is placed between the wall, ceiling and insulation layer.

Why is not waterproofing used in the formation of a heat-insulating cake over the floor? Yes, because it is necessary to protect it, first of all, from steam penetrating from living quarters, and not from atmospheric water flowing from above.

It is the vapors emitted during breathing by us, our pets and house plants formed during the cooking process, during the reception of hygiene procedures that can harm the thermal insulation system. But on top of the water must protect the roof.

By the way, when laying all types of heaters from the side of a cold attic, they are not covered from above with either steam or waterproofing. Thus, they leave the opportunity for materials to spontaneously dry out when airing the attic space.

In no case should heaters “sweep” and “get wet” under a practically sealed insulating film. Together with moisture, they lose their insulating properties. Wet thermal insulation retains almost nothing, but it can rot, and mold will spread to wooden elements.

Vapor barrier under the insulation, laid from the side of the attic, is arranged in the form of a trough: with the edges of the panel entering the walls. So it will prevent the insulation from getting wet not only from steam moving up from the side of the premises, but also from the side of walls that absorb atmospheric moisture.

Not using a vapor barrier layer is only permissible when extruded polystyrene boards are used as thermal insulation. They have practically no pores capable of absorbing and retaining moisture.

Moreover, this is allowed only above rooms with a stable "dry" operating mode. Above bathrooms, showers, swimming pools, the vapor barrier layer is laid in a pair with extruded polystyrene as usual. There after all there is a possibility of penetration of moisture between joints of plates.

Insulation from the attic

Almost all types of insulating materials are used in the insulation of the ceiling from the side of the cold attic. Bulk options, rigid foam boards, soft wadded mats are in use.

Both industrial products and good old folk materials are used. The main advantages of the former include manufacturability. Their manufacturers have thought through and provided for everything for the prompt implementation of lightweight styling.

Folk remedies are much harder to lay. It is not easy to assemble them in the required volume, and even deliver them to the place of work, which is most often done by hand in buckets. But they are much cheaper, better than industrial products, they coexist with wood and do not emit toxins that are harmful to us.

The device of thermal insulation from the side of the attic space involves periodic maintenance of the insulation system.

Bulk materials should be periodically loosened so that they dry better, the rest should be inspected and artificially dried, for example, with a hairdryer if necessary.

For inspection and maintenance, along the logs above the thermal insulation, “paths” are constructed from two or three boards. If it is planned to fill the screed over heat-insulating plates and rigid mats, then the trajectory of the proposed path is laid out with a reinforcing mesh.

Use of mineral wool

The mineral wool group includes glass wool, stone (i.e. basalt) wool and slag wool. Glass wool has been used less and less in recent years due to its ability to abundantly "dust" small vitreous particles, which are strictly forbidden to inhale.

Work with glass wool is allowed only in a respirator and glasses. In addition, the smallest glass fibers are harmful to the skin.

Therefore, overalls made of dense fabric with strong elastic bands on the legs and sleeves, and even gloves should be added to personal protective equipment.

Slag wool for insulation of ceilings in low-rise buildings is not used due to toxicity. It remains basalt, it is also stone wool, produced from volcanic rocks. This is because it is not harmful to use and easy to install.

The technology of thermal insulation with basalt wool is determined by the type of floor:

• On reinforced concrete floors. First, the base is repaired and leveled, then the vapor barrier is laid with the edges entering the walls. After that, the mats are rolled out and laid in 2 layers so that the butt seams of the lower tier overlap with the middle of the upper mat, i.e. scatter.
• On wooden floors. Mats are placed in the space between the lags. Previously, a vapor barrier material is placed in each “cell” formed by the lags with a stop on the logs and around the perimeter on the walls.

Cotton wool is cut before laying. Cut it so that the piece is at least 2 cm wider and longer than the actual size of the cell.

Before putting it in place, the piece of cotton is slightly compressed, so that after it it straightens out in the right place and closes the entire space. This prevents the formation of cold bridges.

Thermal insulation with polystyrene boards

Slab heaters are used mainly for reinforced concrete floors. For laying in the space between the lags, it is difficult to choose the size. You have to cut, waste time, and often the material with an illiterate cutting, and in general it is difficult to do everything without gaps, and these are ways for heat loss.

In the arrangement of the insulation complex for reinforced concrete floors, two types of slab thermal insulation are used:

• Styrofoam. It's non-extruded polystyrene foam. The material requires a mandatory vapor barrier before laying due to the fact that there are channels in its structure that can absorb water.
• extruded polystyrene. Most often it is Penoplex. Due to its practically waterproof surface, it is not necessary to install a vapor barrier before laying it over living areas, bedrooms, living rooms, children's rooms.

Before installing slab thermal insulation from the side of the cold attic, the bases must be repaired and leveled. The vapor barrier film is laid in the form of a pallet with sides bent on the walls.

Lay the boards freely. They are arranged in two layers with a run-up of seams in the lower and upper tiers. If Penoplex with a mounting chamfer is used, the seams do not need to be sealed, if the foam is used, then the seams and stacks are filled with sealant or mounting foam.

The screed on the slabs is most often performed partially, only at the site of the maintenance paths. It is either poured with a cement-sand mixture with a reinforcing mesh layer not exceeding 4 cm, or constructed from gypsum-fiber sheets.

If they are poured with a solution, then waterproofing is laid over the insulation. Purely so that the concrete milk does not seep into the insulation and does not affect its insulating qualities.

Arrangement with expanded clay gravel

The most famous backfill heat-insulating material is expanded clay. It is used both directly for insulation and for lightening insulating compounds and mixtures. Expanded clay is produced in the form of gravel ranging in size from 4 to 10 mm.

Expanded clay is made from environmentally friendly easily sintered clay. The material is affordable, non-flammable, moisture resistant, lightweight, which greatly facilitates the delivery and backfilling. They fall asleep either in the space between the lags, or directly on the reinforced concrete floor.

Before backfilling expanded clay, the base is covered with a vapor barrier film, the edges of which traditionally go onto the walls. These peculiar sides should be 10-15 cm above the level of the gravel layer poured onto the ceiling.

It is not necessary to arrange maintenance paths for expanded clay. You can walk right along the backfill. Periodically, it needs to be agitated with a rake so that all the artificial pebbles of the insulating layer can dry out.

In addition to expanded clay, a wide range of folk filling insulation products are still used, attracting mainly owners of eco-houses as adherents of materials that are safe for themselves and the environment.

Bulk folk materials

Adherents of environmentally friendly construction methods have their own opinion, substantiated by centuries of successful practice, about the options for thermal insulation of the ceiling.

They believe that it is correct and reasonable to insulate both the ceiling under a cold roof and the slopes with natural materials.

In terms of insulating qualities, natural options are certainly inferior to industrial heaters.

But thermal insulation of natural origin is distinguished by:

• Environmental priorities. They do not create the slightest threat to the environment, do not emit or spread harmful chemical components. Natural thermal insulators do not need to be disposed of in a special way, they can simply be burned or placed in a compost heap.
• Practicality. Folk heaters perfectly retained heat even in those days when the dwelling was heated only by a stove. In addition, there was no such powerful heating equipment that the current owners of private houses have.
• Economic benefits. You can prepare natural thermal insulation for a penny or even for free. It is possible to carry out replacement as the technical characteristics are lost much more often than factory products.
• Symbiosis with natural building materials. Natural heat insulators perfectly coexist with wood, clay, soil backfill. With a stable temperature regime, they do not deteriorate from contact with the stone.
• Safety for residents. In extremely rare cases, natural materials can cause an allergic reaction, the origin of which has undeniable chemical prerequisites.

Most natural heat insulators, according to the method of laying, belong to backfill varieties. They are freely distributed over the ceiling, periodically stirred to dry and increase thermal insulation properties. For maintenance, paths are arranged from a pair of boards laid on logs.

One of the popular options for natural insulation is ecowool, made from natural cellulose. Its advantages include manufacturability of application, thoroughly thought out by manufacturers, and pre-treatment with flame retardants and antiseptics.

To this day, natural thermal insulation is used:

• Shavings and sawdust. Their abundance remains after the construction of a wooden house, you can replenish stocks at sawmills and woodworking workshops. Fall asleep with a layer of 15 - 30 cm.
• Straw. You can prepare at the nearest farm engaged in the cultivation of cereals. It is laid in a layer of 25 cm.
• Moss. Excellent, practically non-rotting thermal insulation, used both from the inside of the building and from the outside. The qualities laid down by nature allow the use of moss for a dozen or more years. The insulation layer can be relatively small, up to 10 cm.
• Dry leaves, hay. You can stock up on such thermal insulation absolutely free of charge, but you will have to change it almost every year because of the tendency to quickly saturate with moisture. You can use not only foliage, but also needles. It is enough to insulate with a layer of up to 20 cm.
• Seaweed. Not in all regions of our country you can freely get this version of insulation. True, the inhabitants of Primorye have them in abundance and can change every year. The stacking power is up to 20 cm. Significant advantages include the distribution of volatile iodine molecules that are useful for people.

If your area has a pond overgrown with reeds, this plant will also serve. Its stems are tied together with a tourniquet or metal wire. Then the bundles fill the space between the ceiling beams and joists.

The above types of natural thermal insulation have a number of significant drawbacks that are not characteristic of factory products. Therefore, in order to improve consumer qualities, filling natural heaters must be carefully prepared before laying.

The disadvantages that should be minimized before use, quite rightly include:

• Flammability and the ability to perfectly support combustion. Flame retardant treatment ideally combats this disadvantage. Instead, you can use clay or slag, a layer of which covers the top of the insulating backfill.
• Reduction of the heat-insulating thickness. Thermally insulating natural backfill must be stirred frequently to avoid pressing, it must be dried to prevent wetting and the associated reduction in insulating properties.
• incoherence. During the maintenance of the insulation and the device within the attic of the drafts necessary for drying, part of the material can be taken out corny. So, you need to constantly replenish the stock. This disadvantage can be overcome by baling.
• tendency to rot. The ability to quickly and easily absorb moisture can lead to decay, especially if regular maintenance is neglected. As a prophylactic, antiseptics used for wood processing are suitable.
• Attractiveness for rodents. In dry and warm layings of straw, moss, hay, rats and mice live freely, to scare away which you will have to purchase specialized tools in the SES.

There are two more popular types of folk thermal insulation, these are the soil-vegetative layer and crumpled clay. They do not burn and do not attract mice.

They are not afraid of moisture and drafts weathering dry plants. But there is a serious drawback - considerable weight, due to which it is necessary to strengthen the overlap.

Soil - a layer of soil in contact with the day surface, enriched with the waste products of representatives of flora and fauna, is mixed with any of the above folk heat insulators to facilitate it. It is simply scattered over the ceiling, like expanded clay.

Clay is diluted in containers with water to the consistency of sour cream, chopped straw or shavings are added to it and poured onto the floor with a layer of 10–15 cm. After the poured composition has hardened, the cracks are sealed with softened clay.

Ceiling insulation technology

If, for technical reasons, insulation from the side of the cold attic is not possible, then thermal insulation systems are installed from the side of the room, i.e. put on the ceiling. This option is more difficult to implement, but sometimes it is the only possible one.

In the case of thermal insulation of the ceiling from the side of the ceiling, the following are used:

• Styrofoam. Panels of non-extruded expanded polystyrene are easily glued to a pre-leveled ceiling. Silicone sealant or mounting foam is introduced into the gaps between the elements, the excess of which should be removed immediately.
• Extruded polystyrene foam. Also glue. Most often, Penoplex is used with a mounting edge that eliminates the likelihood of cold bridges. The thickness of the insulation can be accurately calculated according to the climatic data of the area and a material with the appropriate characteristics can be selected.
• Cork. The simplest option is a sheet cork substrate used as a flooring under warm floors. Panels glued to the ceiling are also suitable, but the cost of the insulation system will end up being much more expensive.

Sticking, holding the material to the canopy, of course, is much more difficult and more difficult than falling asleep from above. In addition, these options are not applicable without external finishing. They just need to be decorated.

Masking of the ceiling insulation system is carried out by installing frame structures: stretch and slatted ceilings. For their installation, a fixing profile is installed around the perimeter of the room, located at least 1-2 cm below the glued insulation.

If it is planned to install ceiling lights and exhaust ventilation ducts, then the distance between the plane of the decorative ceiling and the thermal insulation system is further increased. As a result, an unnecessarily low, as if “pressing” ceiling may turn out, which negatively affects the interior picture and the well-being of the owners of the house.

The options actively used in practice also include single- and multi-level drywall constructions. The rigid GVL option is a priority due to the fact that in case of wetting and peeling off the heat-insulating plate, it will freely hold the detached part.

In the field of building an insulation system from the inside of the room, heat-insulating plasters stand apart. Materials for their implementation have been developed relatively recently. The pioneers in their application were progressive industries: the military space complex, civil aircraft industry.

The composition of the heat-insulating plaster material applied to the ceiling contains the smallest ceramic balls, inside which air is contained. It is he who is the most active insulator.

A valuable advantage of heat-insulating plasters is the ability to apply the thinnest layer of 1 mm, the effectiveness of which will be equal to the efficiency of a foam board 5 cm thick. The downside is the considerable cost and complexity of application, which requires special equipment.

Video #1 Correction of errors in the ceiling thermal insulation device made by the former owner of the house:

Demonstration of the process of warming the attic floor with mineral wool:

The use of ecowool in the thermal insulation of the ceiling:

Properly executed thermal insulation of the ceiling will ensure perfect heat preservation, while creating conditions for the unhindered removal of household fumes and condensate outside the roof structure.

However, not only technologically accurately performed work is important, but also the correct selection of the insulation scheme and the material for its execution. We hope that our article will provide you with effective assistance in this matter.

In winter, the heat loss of the ceiling structure is about 15%. Since the house is warm and it is cold outside, condensation forms in the room, creating a favorable atmosphere for the growth of bacteria and fungus. Therefore, it is necessary to think about the effective insulation of the ceiling in the interior of the house.

Peculiarities

The main feature of the ceiling insulation from the inside is the impossibility of organizing a condenser drain. The situation could be corrected by drainage walls. However, their cost is far from affordable for everyone. Depending on the time of year, the ceiling can quickly heat up and cool down. For this reason, the main ceiling insulation technology is focused on ensuring that condensation does not form in the finished structure.

To create a warm and cozy atmosphere in the house, it is recommended to use mineral wool in the form of a roll or slabs.

In the people, such a heater is called glass wool. If this material is used in conjunction with a false ceiling, drywall will create an insurmountable barrier to the outgoing heat.

The installation of mineral wool should be divided into several stages:

• Assembly and installation of a frame on a metal or wooden base. For this process, it is worth using an electric drill and dowels.
• Filling the free space between the parts with mineral wool. As a fastener, a special glue for tiles is used. It instantly hardens and creates a reliable fastening of the material. Do not forget about the additional installation of vapor barrier.
• At the final stage of work, drywall is installed on the ceiling. It is recommended to use self-tapping screws made of hardened steel as fasteners (they have high strength and are able to withstand maximum loads).

To an ordinary person it will seem that the installation technology is quite simple. However, any installation process has its own nuances. It is strictly forbidden to press mineral wool. The main effect of heat retention is that the bubbles located in the inner part of the material do not provide heat exchange between the ceiling and the attic.

Spotlights can also create a certain problem. It is known that energy-saving lamps get very hot. The installed insulation will prevent the removal of heat from the lamps, which will lead to their rapid breakdown. An alternative option is to create an additional gap between the lamps and the insulation (obstruction of heat removal and air circulation).

Types and materials

Various shops and building materials markets offer a large selection of heaters. Against this background, several varieties stand out.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is a common textile fiber obtained by various methods. Fiber made from volcanic materials is called stony. Slag wool is created on the basis of blast-furnace slag. Glass wool is a raw material created on the basis of glass melt. As for the thickness of the insulation, the indicator ranges from 2 to 20 cm.

Mineral wool is optimally hygroscopic, over time it is destroyed as a result of ingress of condensate. To prevent this process, when installing the insulation, it is necessary to mount an additional layer of vapor barrier.

Polyethylene foam

Polyethylene foam in the form of a roll on a foil basis is a new generation of insulation. The thickness of such material is from 3 to 20 mm. Polyethylene foam is the most effective material used for ceiling insulation. The small thickness makes it easy to install it in a private house and apartment.

Styrofoam

Styrofoam is a material made from plastic mass in the form of cells. It is produced in the form of squares measuring 1 x 1 m. The thickness of the sheet is from 2 to 10 cm. The density of the material varies between 15-25 kg / m2 (foam 25 kg / m2 is often used to insulate the ceiling). Styrofoam is often used to insulate suspended frames, walls and other coverings of a private house. It has good reviews.

Styrofoam

Extruded polystyrene foam is formed by producing special polymers: the finished insulation is created by extruding the material through a special mold measuring 120x60 cm. The thickness of the finished sheet ranges from 10 to 200 mm. For insulation of ceiling structures, a material with a density of 25-45 kg / cm2 is more often used. In simple terms, this is foam plastic made using a different technology. Its main difference is the higher strength of the material.

Expanded polystyrene (polystyrene) should be used as a ceiling insulation when subsequent plastering is planned.

You can insulate the ceiling with loose expanded clay. This material is often used for insulation of attic floors. In addition to the basic materials, insulation can be carried out with isolon, penofol, penoplex. It is important to fix the insulation material correctly. The materials are suitable for insulation on the top floor, veranda, basement, attic.

Which to choose?

When choosing a heater, special attention should be paid to combustibility, strength, weight and level of permeability. The cost of insulation is not as important as its effectiveness. There are wooden and concrete floors. Concrete structures, unlike wooden ceilings, have a large bearing capacity. Concrete is considered a partially vapor permeable material, but finished slabs lose this indicator.

Wooden ceilings are more common in private homes. Usually attic floors are installed on a wooden base. It is known that the tree is subject to burning and passes any vapors well. If you try to block access to air, over time the tree will begin to rot. It is worth highlighting the key factor influencing the choice of material - the location of the insulation layer. The ceiling can be insulated from the attic side of the house and its inner part. Fans of an inexpensive, simple and affordable option for insulation will suit the attic floor.

Work technology

Experienced experts do not recommend insulating ceilings in the interior of the room. The main reason is the danger of ingress of insulation or its fumes into the room. Consider the best options for the placement and installation of ceiling insulation, observing the technology of work and precautions.

Expanded polystyrene (EPS) can be used as an effective option. Installation work begins with the installation of the crate. At the next stage of work, polystyrene foam is installed. The thickness of the insulation should be 3 mm.

Next, measure the space between the rails (no more than 2 mm). The empty space is filled with insulation and fixed with dowels. At the end, drywall is fixed to the crate as a false ceiling. As an alternative, tensile structures can be installed.

Foamed polyethylene is not as effective as a heater. It can be used for insulation in the event that heat loss is small. A crate is mounted on the ceiling and the penofol is fixed with dowels. After installation, a small gap is made on both sides of the material for air ventilation and another crate is installed.

At the end of the work, drywall or stretch ceiling is mounted. As an alternative, penofol is recommended to be used in combination with penoplex.

Additional insulation can be plaster mixtures. They are an excellent insulation for a concrete-based ceiling. Plaster mixtures are highly environmentally friendly. They are non-flammable and fit perfectly into the architectural style of the house. One of the most natural and high-quality do-it-yourself insulation materials inside is cork bark agglomerate. Such material is mounted on the crate. Since the cork bark is not afraid of moisture, vapor barrier is optional.

The insulation of the ceiling in the interior of the room directly depends on the material used. Using foam, the crate can not be installed, since it is perfectly mounted on mastic or glue. Additional strength to other materials is formed by a hinged structure. In wet rooms (for example, a bathroom), a metal profile is additionally used; in other situations, a wooden structure is used. However, it will not be possible to insulate the ceiling without decorative trim.

The profile must be fixed to the dimensions of the insulation. As a waterproofing material, a film or glassine is used. The insulation is mounted without additional gaps. Another layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the insulation and hermetically glued. Foil insulation is mounted with a reflector in the interior of the room. A special crate serves as an additional support element for the subsequent decorative finishing of the ceiling.

When choosing a heater, it is necessary to take into account tips and recommendations, as well as a number of conditions and characteristics of the base material. In more detail, you should analyze the material of construction (concrete, brick, wood), as well as the size and purpose of the room.

Let's highlight the main properties and characteristics for ceiling insulation:

• High level of fire safety (material should not burn).
• The elasticity and elasticity of the material play an important role in the preservation and restoration of insulation.
• Environmental friendliness of the insulation (the main composition of the material should not contain harmful and toxic substances).