Underfloor heating installation is possible in rooms with high ceilings. Most often, they are mounted in the bathroom, but a warm floor under the tiles can be installed over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe apartment.
There are several heating methods that you need to choose individually, depending on the height of the ceilings, the state of the wiring and the water pressure in the apartment or country house. The most popular are heating mats, which are easy to install.
In this article, we examined the basic rules for laying infrared and cable floor heating. They also gave a detailed instruction on the arrangement of a heating system under a tile using heating mats. The material is provided with step-by-step photos and video recommendations from specialists for installing underfloor heating.
Before you start choosing a floor heating system, you need to take into account that they have limitations. Despite the fact that heating systems can completely replace heating in an apartment, this cannot be done according to the norms of Russian legislation.
These limitations are due to a number of reasons:
- It is allowed to use in apartments only, and the massive use of such systems in the house leads to an increase in the load on the electrical network.
- A massive or partial transition to electric heating leads to an imbalance in the heat supply system in the house.
Since the floor will not be used as the main source of heat in the apartment, you can save on installation costs. The savings lie in laying the heating cable or foil only in those places that are free from furniture.
This will reduce the consumption of thermal energy, which will make it more economical in the long term, as well as at the same time, when purchasing building materials and installing
In a private house, the possibilities of using this technology are much wider. Depending on the available energy sources, you can choose an acceptable option between water and electric heating.
If the house is equipped with autonomous sources of electricity, such as or, undoubtedly, it is worth making a choice in favor of electrical, i.e. cable or infrared heating systems.
If electricity is supplied over power lines, then using the electric option for heating a private home will be very expensive. In that case, it is better to opt for. It will last about 35 years, after which it will require replacement.
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Installation of mats and installation of the control system
The installation of electric mats is easier and faster than cable installation. It is enough to place them on the heating area, which was determined when drawing up the scheme.
The cable will have to be laid on the mounting tape, which is metal fasteners that are fixed in the floor screed. When laying the cable, it is necessary to make turns of the same width
This will ensure an even level of heating of the floor surface. It is not recommended to make cable breaks during installation.
After laying the cable, you need to install. It performs an important function - maintaining the desired temperature of the floor covering.
This allows you to reduce energy consumption, since the heating will periodically turn off when the set temperature is reached. If the temperature sensor detects a decrease in the mode set by the user, the heating will automatically turn on.
To mount the control unit in the wall, drill a hole of the required diameter. There must be a power source near the unit installation site. It could be an outlet
The hole should be located more than 30 cm from the floor surface. A vertical channel is drilled down from the hole, where the corrugation for the temperature sensor will be installed.
The opposite end of the corrugation should be equally spaced between the turns of the heating cable. If this rule is not followed, then the sensor readings will be overestimated.
When connecting the heating cable to the control unit, follow the instructions from the equipment manufacturer. Before connecting, you need to check the resistance of the wires with a special device.
Rules for laying infrared underfloor heating
Despite structural differences, it can be installed just like electric mats. But there is a difference between them. When connecting a film heater, not a serial, but a parallel connection is used.
From a constructive point of view, this is a more reliable way, since if a separate module fails, the rest will continue to function.
Such a floor has the advantage that it allows you to reduce energy consumption, due to its reduced consumption compared to electric mats. The film is sold in rolls and purchased in the amount required for the heating area. The film can be cut, but only in those places where it is allowed by the manufacturer
The film must be laid with a slight overlap, strictly following the markings. The modules are held together with molar tape. This is a temporary method of fastening, since after filling with a self-leveling floor, the need for fastening will disappear.
We considered the features of the film type of heating in more detail in.
Electric floor heating installation guide
The quality of the coating depends on the condition of the base on which it is to be laid. The work should start with dismantling the old coating. Everything must be dismantled, including the old screed.
A bump stop is required for work. It is also necessary to think in advance how to transport and where to export old concrete. Dumping construction waste into garbage bins is prohibited
After removing the old coating, it is necessary to remove all fine debris and dust. After that, you need to inspect the floor area and, if cracks are present, they must be repaired. When the floor surface is prepared, you can proceed with waterproofing and insulation.
Stage # 1 - installation of insulation under the electric floor
Insulation must be laid on the prepared base. Cork sheets are preferred. They have sufficient density and do not sag under the weight of the screed, as happens with expanded polystyrene.
The use of low density insulation will lead to the need to dismantle the finished floor due to the material's cushioning.
Cheap expanded polystyrene makes the screed under the tiles crack. This inevitably leads to flaking and deterioration of the tile. Small cracks appear first, and then the tile peels off
The insulation is attached to the surface by gluing it onto the bituminous mastic. Due to the use of this material, not only the fixation of cork sheets is achieved, but also waterproofing.
The service life of warm floors also depends on the quality of gluing. After waiting 5-6 hours, you can proceed to filling the screed. The thickness of the screed must be at least 3 cm.
When using a self-leveling floor, there is no need for leveling by the rule, as is the case with independently mixed cement mortars. After work, you need to leave the surface until completely dry, for about 3-4 days.
Stage # 2 - laying heating mats
After the filling solution has hardened, you can start installing the warm floor under the tiles. First, you need to outline with chalk the places where the mats will not be installed. This will help you navigate and not overuse material.
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Most often, electronics fail, which is easy to replace and continue to use underfloor heating. If the control unit breaks down, it will be difficult to get a new one if the manufacturer stops producing heating systems. Temperature sensors are easier to match as they are interchangeable in many models.
Have you equipped your home with a warm floor under the tiles? What kind of heating system did you use? How satisfied are you with the result and have you encountered any type of breakdown? Share your experience in installing and operating a warm floor - leave your comments under this article.
A modern bathroom without fail has lamps, sockets, fans, a washing machine, less often boilers and other household appliances. 20-30 years ago, the electrical wiring in the bathroom was not as loaded as it is now. However, in addition to the load, the power grid is also in high humidity conditions. All this requires special care and compliance with all rules and regulations during the installation of it with your own hands.
A wet floor or wall is conductive, since moisture is an excellent conductor. To prevent various incidents and injuries from happening in the future, the following rules must be observed:
- Route electrical cables only under finishing elements.
- The wiring must be in a corrugated sleeve.
- Junction boxes, connectors, twists, terminal blocks are prohibited inside the bathroom. Use only solid pieces of cable from the outer box.
- It is forbidden to place sockets and mechanisms for adjusting lighting at a distance closer than 70 cm to the bathroom, sink, water pipes, shower and closer than 90 cm to the floor.
- Sockets are separated from fans and lighting.
- Pay attention to devices, lamps, sockets and switches: they must have protection class IP 44 and higher.
Installation steps
Tools
Before starting work, you need to acquire some tools, namely:
- with a chasing cutter, drill or perforator;
- phillips and slotted screwdrivers, as well as a probe screwdriver;
- tape measure not less than five meters;
- level;
- chisel with a hammer;
- pliers;
- tape and knife.
If in some places it is not possible to use a chasing cutter or puncher, you can make grooves (cavities) with a hammer and chisel.
Necessary materials
In order for the wiring in the bathroom to last a long time, you need to select high-quality materials: moisture-proof sockets, preferably triple-insulated copper wires with a cross section of 2.5 mm and other equipment that ensures the safety of the electrical network. Wires with strong bends and damaged insulation are not allowed.
Getting rid of the old
Was the bathroom wiring more than 15 years ago? It is recommended to replace it with a new one in order to avoid overheating, fires and frequent knocking out of the machine. When combining a toilet and a bathroom, replace the wires in both the one and the other room. It is likely that food was supplied to the premises separately. Take the time to inspect all the wires.
How is the diagram drawn up?
The correct circuit is a reliable assistant to an electrician. Think about the place of installation of electrical appliances, wires, sockets, decide on the type of lighting, in addition to this, it is worth thinking about how the room will be heated. Due to the high humidity in the bathroom, the wiring must be hidden without fail.
- It is recommended to make at least 2-3 sockets in the bathroom.
- For the water heater and the washing machine, install a separate outlet for each appliance.
- Place the switch only outside the room.
- Each group of wires must have a separate automation.
- To each outlet, a line is led perpendicularly, straight down.
For hollow walls that are sheathed with gypsum plasterboard or other panels, the wires must be in the void between the wall and the cladding, for walls that do not have voids under the cladding, they are gated.
Installation of wiring
After the walls have been marked, and the calculations have been made, it is necessary to prepare as accurately as possible places for lamps, switches and sockets. Further, depending on the type of finish, there are several options for how to place the wires in the wall:
- There is a void between the decorative cover and the wall.
- It is difficult to pass the cable between the covering and the wall due to the small gap.
- There are no panels.
The first option assumes the presence of voids in which the wires are placed in the corrugated sleeve, carried through the drilled holes in the vertical profiles.
The second option involves gating the walls directly with laying the cable in the sleeve in the gutter and fixing it with special brackets.
In the third case, as in the second, cavities are created, however, they must be of such depth that the wiring in the corrugated sleeve fits completely there. After that, the grooves should be covered with alabaster mortar and leveled.
Later, the socket is installed, followed by fixing it with alabaster and attaching triple wires (one core is grounding, the others are zero and phase) to sockets, lamps and other devices.
Safety and grounding
Modern electrical wiring is grounded and consists of three cores: two of them are zero and phase, the third is ground. In ancient times, when the wiring consisted of two components, they additionally grounded the room by passing a cable with a large cross-section from the bathroom to the distribution block on the staircase. Now the wires are three-core and go directly to the distributor.
RCD application
The use of a residual current device contributes to the safety during the operation of electrical devices and is mandatory for connection to the bathroom circuit. The lead-in box is where the RCD is located. As the name implies, the device turns off the electricity supply if the indicators of the outgoing and passing current do not match, so that a person does not get an electric shock. Without experience, it is better not to install this device with your own hands.
Circuit breakers
Together with the RCD, machines are installed. Do not confuse an RCD with a separate machine, which ceases to conduct current during short circuits and overloads. A different number of machines is installed in electrical panels, depending on the number of electrical appliances: for lighting in some rooms - one, for sockets - another, etc. For lighting, the recommended power of the switches is 10 A with a load of at least 2200 W per hour. For example, one light bulb consumes no more than 60 W, washing machines - from 2000 W per hour or more, so for more powerful appliances you will have to install a 25 A machine with a load of at least 5500 W.
Understanding the main ground bus
In new houses or houses with modernized networks, a switchgear is usually installed in the storey box, and the main ground bus can also be found there. You can determine that a new system is being used by the riser: a five-wire cable is brought out along it. The bus is made from copper and steel only. It includes 5 or more places for connection, it is from them that grounding wires go: one is mounted in the shield, all the others - to the current conductors (there may be a different number). When replacing the old wiring, the phase wire is connected instead of the old one, and zero is connected with neutral wires. It is forbidden to connect all grounding wires on one bolt (clamp).
The electric floor also requires grounding. This is done by laying a metal mesh over the screed, and a grounding cable is connected to the mesh with a clamp.
Safe sockets
Outlets need to install a separate RCD with a rated current the same or slightly more (but not less) than that of the machine. With a large gap in the rated voltage, the device simply will not work.
Modern standard power washing machines require 16 amp water-proof outlets with a ceramic outer surface. The sockets must be equipped with special covers and protected from splashes.
Should you use junction boxes?
The junction box contains the connections of several wiring lines, which are connected by twisting or terminal blocks, from there one wire goes to the shield. It is located outside the bathroom. The main plus is the saving of cable and material resources. But there is a significant drawback - unreliability, because the terminal blocks and twists do not tolerate high voltage quite well.
Private house grounding option
Electrical wiring installed in a private house can be grounded independently with your own hands thanks to a cable connected to a triangle that goes into the ground or a three-piece armature. After that, the necessary wire is attached to the welded bolt with a nut.
be careful
- Always de-energize the apartment completely before starting work.
- Use only serviceable and quality tools.
- Be careful, because any mistake can lead to unexpected consequences in the future.
Do-it-yourself installation of electrical wiring can be done by everyone, but before that you need to study many nuances, ranging from the choice of material and ending with safety precautions. Without the proper tool, knowledge and self-confidence, it is better to entrust this work to professionals.
Bathroom wiring must be safe and functional at the same time. The old standard, when a lamp is installed in the middle of the room, and sockets and switches are taken out of the room, has not been practiced for a long time. Today, there are waterproof electrical accessories and automation that will completely protect a person from electric shock. Next, we will talk about how to do electrical wiring in the bathroom with your own hands and what are the requirements for it.
Primary requirements
What do you need to know? First of all, the fact that for electrical safety a bathroom or shower is divided into 4 zones, which are numbered from 0 to 3.
Wherein:
- 0 - the volume of the bath, shower tray, sink and other places where water is located.
- 1 - around zone 0. These are the adjacent walls to the bathtub, sink, etc.
- 2 - located at a distance of 60 cm from the edge of the bathroom, for non-rectangular containers - within a radius (shower) of 60 cm from the edges of zone 0.
- 3 - considered safe (conditionally).
If all the requirements are met, then you will not face any problems regarding electrical safety in the future.
Installation instructions
Step 1 - creating the circuit
First you need to decide on the wiring diagram in the bathroom. You must think about what electrical appliances will be installed, what type of lighting is chosen, and, equally important, what kind of heating will be present.
- The junction box, for electrical safety reasons, must be installed outside the room.
- At least three sockets must be placed over the entire area: for, for a hairdryer near the mirror and for an electric boiler or boiler (if present).
- The switch, by analogy with the box, is displayed in an adjacent room, next to the front door.
- As we have already said, automation is installed on each group of wires separately: sockets, lamps, powerful equipment.
- Bathroom wiring is laid in the wall under the ceiling, parallel to the floor. The line goes down to the sockets perpendicularly, straight down. If you decide to make a suspended or stretch ceiling, wires can be passed through it (between profiles or under the film).
You should pay your attention to the fact that all sockets and switches must be at a safe distance from the water source - at least 60 cm. Consider this fact so as not to endanger your life.
Having drawn a wiring diagram in the bathroom, you can proceed further - to counting the amount of materials.
Step 2 - choosing accessories
At this stage, it is necessary not only to select the appropriate wiring elements, but also to determine their technical characteristics. 
In order to do the electrical wiring in the bathroom with your own hands, we recommend choosing the following materials:
- Three-core cable, copper, with a cross-section of 2.5 mm 2 for sockets and 1.5 mm 2 for lamps. If you have a powerful instantaneous water heater or electric boiler installed in your bathroom, then calculate the cable cross-section for it by current and power. The best option would be to use a foreign cable, but the Russian analogue VVGng-LS will be a good replacement in terms of price and quality.
- Dowel clamps for.
- Waterproof sockets and switches, with a degree of protection IP not less than "44" and a splash-proof cover. Also, the products must have a grounding contact.
- Waterproof, if possible, it is better to use spotlights, because they are easier to install, look neat on the ceiling and, moreover, can operate from 12 V.
- For the potential equalization system, the power cable is 1 * 6. In addition to it, you need to purchase tips.
Step 3 - Getting Started
So, first, you need to create special grooves in the walls - grooves, for laying the cable, according to the wiring diagram in the bathroom. Recesses also need to be made for sockets, switches, junction box. To do this, you can use a drill with a special crown, 68 mm in diameter. 
Further, the socket boxes and the box are installed in their seats and securely fixed with a solution. 
After that, you need to fix the wiring in the grooves yourself with the help of dowel clamps or, using the old-fashioned method, grab it with a solution every 20 cm. The ends of the cable are stripped of insulation and threaded to the socket boxes. 
Socket and switch cores can now be installed in the housings. We draw your attention to the fact that it is better to fix the decorative cover after all the repairs so that it does not get dirty during the work.
When the electrical wiring is fixed in the wall, you can go to and the RCD with your own hands. Do not rush to connect them, because it will be necessary to first check the correct wiring in the bathroom. 
When the wiring in the room is finished, you need to check the line for presence with a multimeter. If it is missing, you did everything right and you can proceed to the decorative wall decoration.
There remains one equally important nuance, to which a serious approach must be ensured - it is necessary in the bathroom. To do this, we take our single-core copper wire and connect the body of the washing machine, boiler, sink, bathtub and risers of cold and hot water together. All these "points" must be connected to the grounding bus installed in your switchboard. 
We draw your attention to the fact that if there is no grounding bus in the shield, be sure to carry it to a safe one with a PE wire.
It should also be noted that it is best to use for heating, which can be easily spread in the floor on your own. That's the whole technology of electrical work. As you can see, you can do the wiring in the bathroom with your own hands. the structure of the system is nothing supernatural!
Finally
Today, suspended plasterboard ceilings and plastic panels are popular. If you decide to use them, it will only facilitate the electrical work. The fact is that when wiring electrical wiring in the bathroom under the suspended ceiling, you will not need to create grooves, but simply lay the cable in a protective corrugated pipe, as shown in the photo. The corrugation, in turn, is easily fastened with clips to the profile.
Another important point that I would like to draw your attention to is the lack of grounding in the apartment board. Indeed, it happens that the ground wire may be missing. In this case, it is imperative for a new, three-core one, after which it is imperative to make a potential equalization system. 
That's all I wanted to tell you about how to do electrical wiring in the bathroom with your own hands. We hope that the information was useful for you and useful in electrical work!
Similar material:
Any serious renovation of an apartment, and even a local renovation of a room, and even more so a renovation of a bathroom, will not do without replacing, supplementing or changing the wiring diagram. When planning this work, you must draw up a wiring diagram in the apartment (I talked about this in another blog article, and you can always read it), and in addition to the wiring diagram, decide on the wiring methods. But in order to decide on this - you need to know the wiring methods.
Try to carry out electrical installation in accordance with the latest edition of the PUE (Electrical Installation Rules), Edition 7. Watch and download.
According to 7.1.37 - 7.1.39 PUE, when repairing an apartment, repairing a kitchen, repairing a bathroom, the following methods of wiring in an apartment are allowed:
- Concealed electrical wiring in cable ducts of building structures.
- Concealed electrical wiring - permanent electrical wiring embedded in the wall or floor.
- Electrical wiring in grooves. In buildings made of non-combustible building materials, which include concrete, bricks, cinder blocks, etc. Permanently monolithic hidden electrical wiring of group networks in the grooves (grooves) of walls, partitions, ceilings, under plaster, in the floor preparation layer or in the voids of building structures, performed with a cable or insulated wires in a protective sheath, is allowed.
- Open wiring in an electric stove, boxes, corrugation, etc.
Note: The use of non-removable embedded hidden electrical wiring in wall panels, partitions and ceilings, made during their manufacture at construction industry plants or electrical wiring performed at the mounting joints of panels during the installation of buildings, is not allowed (PUE ed. 7)
Concealed wiring embedded in the walls
The very concept of hidden wiring implies that the wires used for electrical wiring should not be visible. Consider the hidden electrical wiring in the grooves (grooves) of the walls.
There are several ways to make the strobe itself.
Wiring boxes for hidden wiring
Concealed wiring involves the installation of electrical boxes (socket boxes) for sockets and switches. To install the socket boxes, a niche necessary in size is hollowed out. The socket boxes are frozen with alabaster, a cable is inserted into them, then the box is monolithic with gypsum plaster. If hidden wiring is done under the tiles, then the display units need to be monolithic so that they protrude slightly from the wall.
Concealed wiring in false ceilings and plasterboard partitions
Wiring in false ceilings and plasterboard partitions is also hidden wiring. It is carried out in plastic pipes, cable channels. Corrugation works well for this.
Corrugation from the French word gaufrer - to press folds. In electrical wiring, a corrugation is a hose with diametrical stiffening ribs and steel wire laid inside.
The wire is intended for pulling electric wires or electric cables inside the corrugation. Corrugation is used not only for open, but also for hidden wiring. The corrugation is available in different diameters.
Corrugation is a corrugated PVC pipe. The corrugation is produced in the following diameters: 16 mm, 20 mm, 25 mm, 32 mm, 40 mm, 50 mm, 63 mm. Laying in the corrugation is performed only with a single cable, and not with a bundle of cables. To fasten the corrugation with a cable to the wall or ceiling, special clips are used. The diameter of the clamps is selected according to the diameter of the corrugation.
Note: Hidden wiring in the corrugation should be carried out, in accordance with the PUE (electrical installation rule) clause 7.1.38, only on non-flammable or low-flammable surfaces.
Open wiring in cable duct
The cable channel is designed for laying open wiring
Designed for laying open wiring. The cable channel is made of various materials of plastic, steel or aluminum. For open wiring in an apartment, a plastic cable channel is usually used.
The most popular one is a box, rectangular in profile, with a cover protecting the cable channel. A partition is used inside the channel to differentiate between power and low-current cables. Installation of electrical switches, electrical outlets and other wiring accessories into the structure is carried out with a simple latch. Assembly and routing of cable ducts of the "box" type is facilitated through the use of accessory parts (L-shaped angle, T-shaped angle, plug, connector, external angle, internal angle).
The cable duct is available in a wide variety of sizes. The modern building materials market allows you to choose a cable channel in accordance with the requirements of your open wiring.
Electrical wiring.
According to the technical requirements, the wiring in the electric skirting board is the same as the wiring in the cable channel - it is an open wiring.
An electric skirting board is a skirting board made of PVC (polyvinyl chloride plastic) with a special cable channel in the middle from the front side. The cable can be laid both in this cable channel and between the skirting board and the wall. Ideal for laying telephone, computer and antenna lines on exposed wiring. The electric skirting board is easily attached to the wall using dowel-nails, as well as easily connects to each other both in a straight line and at an angle of 90º.
Perhaps these are all the main methods of wiring in an apartment, used in apartment renovation, kitchen renovation or bathroom renovation. I hope this article on the methods of wiring in an apartment: hidden wiring, open wiring, wiring in corrugation, wiring in a cable channel, wiring in an electric skirting board will be useful to everyone who carries out apartment renovations, room renovations or bathroom renovations.
These are all methods of wiring in an apartment. I wish you success in your endeavors!
Wall chipping works (photo)
Hand gouging
Hidden junction boxes
Concealed wiring is not as difficult as it might seem. And today we will tell you exactly about this, because it is precisely conducting electrical wiring "in a closed" one that is much more aesthetic and, accordingly, a popular way.
What is important: by installing hidden wiring, you preserve the interior of your own apartment. We will undertake to tell you how to carry out high-quality hidden electrical wiring in the walls in your home by our own efforts, without spending money on inviting an electrician.
Benefits of hidden wiring
Hidden wiring is an excellent option for capital repairs or total replacement of wiring in the house.
The most tangible benefits are:
- as mentioned above, the interior of the rooms is preserved, because all the wiring is hidden in the walls or in a space closed from the eyes with plasterboard sheets;
- higher fire safety (after all, if the walls are made of non-combustible materials - gypsum, concrete or brick, then the ignited wiring will not cause a fire);
- increasing the service life of the network, because it is correctly protected from both mechanical influences and other negative external factors (for example, from ultraviolet radiation).
However, there was room for shortcomings. The most notable of them are some laboriousness of installation in comparison with the open method (although it is worth it), as well as the complexity, if necessary, to carry out repair work. The reason for this, of course, is clear - in the event of any malfunction (for example, a wire breakage or burnout), you will have to destroy the wall decoration. But whatever one may say, the closed wiring method is much more reliable. So, we figured out the disadvantages and advantages - this means that you can get down to business.
Installation: step by step instructions
Consider the procedure for laying electrical wiring using the example of a house with concrete or brick walls.
Create a schema
Creating a circuit involves drawing a special plan, which marks: the path of the power line, the location of outlets, switches, power boxes and lighting devices in each individual room. This scheme is also useful for calculating the amount of materials used. An illustrative example for a one-room apartment or house:
- make sure that the cable runs exclusively in vertical and horizontal positions, and that a distance of 15-20 centimeters from the route to the floor or ceiling is maintained;
- remember that it is always done at the entrance to the room, but (although it is not regulated by any GOSTs or other regulatory documents) it should be as convenient as possible for a person (so in the kitchen, sockets are mounted behind the countertop, in the living room - behind the TV, etc.);
- take into account the fact that the distance from the power line to the batteries, the pipeline and ventilation ducts must be at least 50 centimeters (this is stated by the PUE).
We prepare materials and tools
This stage involves counting the number of switches, sockets, the required cable length and other network elements. It will also need to be done in order to determine the diameter of the cores.
In no case should you neglect the calculation - this is fraught with the fact that a too thin conductor will not cope with the load coming to it from powerful household appliances.
When the calculation is completed, select the necessary switches and sockets (for example, only waterproof models of products are mounted in the bathroom).
The minimum set of materials is as follows:
- gypsum solution;
- insulating tape;
- terminal blocks;
- protective corrugated pipe (optional);
- cable - commonly used;
- distribution wiring;
- socket boxes;
- sockets;
- switches.
The minimum set of tools, in turn, looks like this:
- master OK;
- simple pencil;
- building level;
- screwdriver;
- special tool for stripping insulation from wires;
- multimeter;
- a hammer;
- chisel;
- a tool for chipping walls (both a wall chaser and a puncher or grinder are suitable).
We make strobes for wiring
When all the necessary set of tools and materials is ready, we proceed to chipping. For this, special markings are applied to the walls, thanks to which you can conveniently navigate when making recesses. By the way, the procedure can be simplified by using a chalk-colored rope or a special marking cord.
When the markings are applied, we take up the tool and make grooves in the walls with it. If you have a grinder in your hands, you need to cut through two parallel lines with a distance of 3-4 centimeters between them, after which it remains to hollow out the strobe with a hammer and chisel. The depth of the groove depends on the cross-section of the cable and is determined taking into account a small margin (it is associated with the subsequent plastering).
Of course, the best device for wall chasing is a specialized tool, also known as a chaser. The groove cutter will cut grooves quickly and without unnecessary hassle. The only catch is that the cost of the tool is quite high and it makes no sense to purchase it for a one-time use.
The last step in the grooving stage is to create special recesses for sockets and junction boxes. Here a drill with a crown nozzle with a diameter of 6.8 centimeters will save. And when the grooves are ready, we proceed to the installation. For reliability, socket boxes and boxes "sit" on a plaster mortar, which securely fixes the plastic to the concrete wall. At the same time, the edges of the products are placed flush with the surface - this will facilitate the procedure for decorative wall decoration in the future.
Cabling
Next, we lay a line, placing the cable along the strobes. First, the conductor mode is for segments of the length we need (for example, a segment from the distribution box to the outlet, and so on), leaving a margin for connecting the cores. Next, we fix the cable in the grooves with plaster mortar. When the work is done, it remains to call the hidden wiring to check the correctness of the connections, as well as the general performance of the network. Are you sure everything is fine? So, you can safely putty the wall!
I would like to make a separate reservation regarding the use of corrugated tubes when laying a cable. Protective corrugation is intended to keep the line from all kinds of harmful mechanical loads, shocks and similar phenomena. However, the use of such material is a purely individual thing.
This is where the hidden wiring in the house or apartment ends. We can make sure that there is nothing particularly difficult or incomprehensible in the procedure. The main thing is to be careful, as well as observe the color coding of the wires when making connections. In the end, it remains to install sockets with switches, as well as protective automatics in the dashboard (after which you can start installing chandeliers and arranging rooms).
A few words about drywall
We talked about installing wiring in concrete and brick walls. However, they did not mention the now widespread material - drywall, in which cable laying is much easier. It is easier because there is no need to perform strobing here.
The line of force is drawn under the sheets of drywall between the metal profiles:
